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How to build a 72Volt electric motorcycle

by Stryker on November 8, 2007 Table of Contents How to build a 72Volt electric motorcycle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Intro: How to build a 72Volt electric motorcycle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 1: Why and how . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 2: Components and tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 3: The build . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 4: Wiring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2 2 2 5 8

Step 5: Last few things . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-build-a-72Volt-electric-motorcycle/

Intro: How to build a 72Volt electric motorcycle

No gas, no oil and almost silent. 72 Volts, 70mph of pure fun. This is how I built an electric motorcycle.

Step 1: Why and how

I only work 3 miles from home but with gas prices getting out of control, I thought it would be great to have an electric vehicle. I've always wanted a motorcycle and decided that making an electric motorcycle would be a good EV project, keeping costs down, and be fun to ride. This project took about 3 months of research and development (not counting waiting for parts to come in or help from a friend with the welding). All in all, it cost about $3000 to buy and build. This may take a long time to pay off in gas savings, but if you add the fun of building and all of the environmental benefits, it was well worth the effort. With a top speed of over 70 mph and 10 miles per charge, this vehicle is perfect for me. The following instructable will not give you exact step by step instructions, but if you have some mechanical skills and welding ability you should be okay. A little knowledge of motorcycle maintenance wouldn't hurt, too. However, I just read the user's manual and learned as I went.

Image Notes 1. Custom electric motorcycle logo made by my brother. Thanks Ned.

Step 2: Components and tools

Every motorbike is different but the basic components can be the same. Below is a list of the parts I used and where I got them, but you will have to do some research to figure out what fits your bike and requirements. Check out the photos at the bottom to see what I bought and the EVAlbum for other electric vehicle projects. Frame: I looked at many different bike styles and decided on a 1984 Honda Interceptor for a few reasons: 1) I like the style of bike, not a total crotch rocket but not a hog either, with room for batteries inside the frame. 2) The seller on Ebay was close to my house. And the bike didn't run, so it only cost $600. If you have an old bike or someone will donate one then that's great--but for the rest of us, try the local paper, junk yards, Craig's List or ebay motors. Motor: After reading other EV bike specs (and knowing that I wanted to go faster than a moped), I chose a 72V Advanced DC motor, because it's weight and dimensions where good for my frame. I ordered it online fromthunderstruck-ev.com. Batteries: I went with 6 Yellow Top Optima batteries from remybattery.com because they are sealed and have received great reviews. After making cardboard mock ups of the D23 model I realized that there was no way six full sized batteries would fit and still look good. I ended up getting the D51 model. Half the size and weight but also half the storage. Controller: You have to match your controller to your voltage but the amperage is up to your budget. More amps = more power and more cost. It seems that there are only two real choices: Alltrax or Curtis. You'll have to decide for yourself, but I went with the 72V 450Amp Alltrax from cloudelectric. Don't waste your time trying to build a potimeter on an old throttle--just buy a pre-made one and be done with it. I got the Magura 0-5K Twist grip throttle from cloudelectric.com Charger: You have to match your charger with your voltage but the speed of charge in Amps is also up to your budget. I went with a Zivan NG1 from EVAMERICA I have recently switched to six individual 3amp Soneil chargers to help balance the batteries. DC/DC Converter: It's safest to run with a DC/DC converter and an extra 12V battery backup but motorcycles have limited space so I am only using the converter. I purchased a Sevcon 72V Input 13.5V output from evparts and it has working perfectly. Fuses: You'll want to get a fuse that matches your setup. I bought model ANN 400 w/ holder from EVAMERICA. Contactor: This is a device that you hook up to your existing key ignition on 12Volts and it will close the loop so you get the full power to your controller. I bought an Albright SW-200 from EVAMERICA Battery cable and connectors- I bought about 10 feet of 2 GA wire from WAL-MART and cut it to length. Using Lugs from cloudelectric I soldered and used heat shrink tubing on each end. I highly recommend battery terminal covers for safety. Instruments I chose an E-meter(Link 10) w/ Prescaler add on for 72V use instead of a bunch of different meters. As an added feature I wired up the ignition switch to the neutral indicator to show me when the bike was on.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-build-a-72Volt-electric-motorcycle/

Other parts Wire - 12GA different colors and heat shrink tubing (large and small sizes) Electrical tape Wire connectors Wire wrap Tools Basic shop tools are required such as a socket set, screw drivers,wire stripper, etc. Additionally a volt meter, metal grinder and crimper are used in this project.

Image Notes 1. Bought on ebay motors in non working condition. So don't yell at me about trashing a perfectly good motorcycle.

Image Notes 1. This meter has multiple settings but I only use the volts.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-build-a-72Volt-electric-motorcycle/

Image Notes 1. Alltrax makes a very nice speed controller with configuration software.

Image Notes 1. Just buy the throttle. It's not worth trying to make your own.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-build-a-72Volt-electric-motorcycle/

Image Notes 1. If you have the money get one good charger instead of trying to use multiple smaller ones.

Image Notes 1. DC/DC converter is very easy to install. Two wires in, two wires out.

Step 3: The build

Start by removing all of those nasty internal combustion engine parts. Remove the gas tank and using your grinder or other cutting tool to cut out the bottom. This makes room for extra batteries or components. (Make sure all gas is out before cutting) Reference your owners manual so that you don't cut any necessary wires, and try to sell some of the parts to help pay for this project. Next, make cardboard mock ups of all of your batteries and electronic components to see how and where things are going to fit. Take a look at my pictures to see how I fit everything, believe me that taking the time to make accurate cardboard mock ups is well worth the effort. Now for the hard part. You need a secure battery box and motor mount. I had a friend weld it up for me and he did a fantastic job. From the photos you can see that he first strung up the motor to allow for minor adjustment to be made before cutting the motor mount plate. After that was cut he made a nice chain and sprocket enclosure with a door and welded them onto the frame. Next he fabricated the battery rack and gave each battery a swing arm closure to give a tight fit yet still allow me to get them out easily. Half inch foam padding spacers are between each battery to help cushion the stack--but believe me, they aren't going anywhere. The last thing he did was weld in metal plates for mounting my electrical components. After you get your motor mount and battery compartment all welded up, take some time to clean up the frame of your bike. I removed any rust spots and chipped paint that I could find. Then I used some metallic gray and black spray paint. This makes a world of difference and costs very little. I made a fake gas cap and ran the power cord from the charger up the frame and out the top. Now that you have all of the welding done and your frame looks great, let's install the electrical components and start wiring it up.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-build-a-72Volt-electric-motorcycle/

Image Notes 1. Moving six cardboard batteries is a lot easier than real ones

Image Notes 1. Used thin rope to hold up the motor in just the right spot, so accurate measurements could be made.

Image Notes 1. Motor mount welded in place

Image Notes 1. Battery rack has removable pins on each one to allow for a more snug fit and for easier removal of batteries.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-build-a-72Volt-electric-motorcycle/

Image Notes 1. Optima batterys are sealed so they can be positioned in any direction.

Image Notes 1. Sprocket and chain cover door swings open for easy maintenance.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-build-a-72Volt-electric-motorcycle/

Step 4: Wiring
If I tried to explain where to connect every single wire I would get writers cramp. View the wiring diagram that I put together and let me know if you have any questions. This diagram should be pretty accurate to how I built mine, but obviously you are responsible for your project.

Image Notes 1. Speed controller 2. DC/DC Converter 3. Emeter 72V prescaler 4. 400 ANN Fuse 5. Shunt 6. Battery connector covers make things look nice and keep you safe. 7. Lock washers are a must.

Image Notes 1. Albright Contactors SW-200 gets 12 volts from system and allows you to use your key to get full power. 2. 1/2 inch dense foam padding between each battery.

Image Notes 1. Wire wrap makes things look professional.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-build-a-72Volt-electric-motorcycle/

Image Notes 1. Just buy the throttle. It's not worth trying to make your own.

Image Notes 1. If you have the money get one good charger instead of trying to use multiple smaller ones.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-build-a-72Volt-electric-motorcycle/

Image Notes 1. This meter has multiple settings but I only use the volts. Image Notes 1. DC/DC converter is very easy to install. Two wires in, two wires out.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-build-a-72Volt-electric-motorcycle/

Image Notes 1. Alltrax makes a very nice speed controller with configuration software.

Image Notes 1. Here is the E-meter nicely installed where the rpm gauge used to be. It will give you readings for Volts,Amps,Hours left and Time left.

Step 5: Last few things

Double check all of your connections and tighten every bolt. I wanted my bike to look as good as it rides, so I had all of the panels painted and custom graphics made up by worldsendimages. Using a serial cable and laptop, tweak the speed controller program for your riding preferences. Lastly, I got the bike inspected and insured. (Be prepared for the dealership mechanics to swarm and hit you with a bunch of questions and jokes about failing the emissions test). I know these weren't step by step building instructions, but that's because of the complexity of this project and variables in component use. My intention was to give you the motivation to build your own by seeing how I did it and make it easier by supplying the parts list and a wiring diagram. For more photo's and a build commentary visit my website at http://ben.cbccinc.com.

Image Notes 1. Did my own prep work to save money but had them professionally painted.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-build-a-72Volt-electric-motorcycle/

Related Instructables

How to build a 96-Volt Electric Motorcycle by Kentucky-bum

Gomi Style Electric Motorcycle Conversion (video) by sparkyrust

Build an Electric 48V Electric Flat Motorcycle on a Tracker by budget by Radioactive_Legos JoeMurphy

Easy DIY Electric Motorcycle Conversion by sparkyrust

007 Electric Car Conversion: Dodge Neon Battery Trays (video) by bennelson

Comments
50 comments Add Comment view all 510 comments

arivera-2 says:
will it work if it rains??

Mar 15, 2011. 12:03 PM REPLY

mcmonte says:

Mar 13, 2011. 7:18 AM REPLY I wanted to do something like this 14 years ago. Then about 8 years ago, 4 years ago and now I'm over it. Every time I want a bike I read something in the paper, or see something on the news that stops me cold. I digress, If you want to increase range a little more, additional methods include: - use a brushless motor - get the best batteries you can. Absorbed glass mat (AGM) aren't quite the pinnacle, but they can't leak and some have good capacities - consider small, flexible solar panels that can conform to top-facing surfaces like top of fuel tank, ducktail etc. Trickle-charge a little while parked! - consider these little buggers: http://www.dealextreme.com/p/wind-powered-led-light-for-vehicles-2-pack-5172 Might seem silly, but my idea was to place these tiny wind generators in fairing gaps (where airflow to voltage controller etc would not be affected). So maybe 6 or 8 of these little guys, (of course you removed the leds) to divert the energy produced into an auxiliary channel of the charging circuit. It could work!

thorngil55 says:

Mar 8, 2011. 7:45 PM REPLY Dear Stryker, I am highly interested in doing this build so I can get to school and back efficiently, but I'm mostly concerned about insurance. I live in California and have a large insurance company. I was wondering if it was difficult getting insured and if you used a small specialty insurance company? also I'm concerned about the premium because it is a home build bike. Was that the case with your bike?

krashtest says:

Jan 5, 2011. 10:16 PM REPLY Couldn't you charge the batteries while riding with a magneto? Lotsa volts with a minimal drag. They got the old brit bikes down the road for years, and todays electronics technology being what it is......just wonderin.

luckadoo42 says:
Wouldnt that be perpetual motion, though?

Jan 9, 2011. 1:04 PM REPLY

krashtest says:

Feb 13, 2011. 11:47 PM REPLY Not perpetual motion. Anybody got any unobtanium? I'm just wonderin why the hybrids are only charging on regenerative braking or whatnot. Magnetos produce thousands of volts,(when working right), and require very minimal energy to operate. Not trying to sound like a downer, but I can't help thinking that so many of the hurdles we now face, in respect to fossil fuel free transportation, will quickly disappear as soon as chevron or bp put their business models in place to maximize their profits from the industry. The LAST thing the corporate giants want right now is fossil free futures. Drill baby drill! Alas....I rant.

luckadoo42 says:
Just out of curiosity, do they call unobtanium because its unobtainable or does it have some sort of latin meaning?

Feb 14, 2011. 5:06 PM REPLY

krashtest says:

Feb 14, 2011. 11:03 PM REPLY Its as obtainable as upsadaisium....Hey Rocky! Watch me pull a hat outta my rabbit! I'm just sayin luck, I kinda think we've been saddled with a bad bill of goods. This is corporate america. We certainly need more Teslas around. I hear they're doin some cool stuff with capacitors now instead of or maybe in conjunction with batteries.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-build-a-72Volt-electric-motorcycle/

badideasrus says:

Jan 26, 2011. 10:18 AM REPLY well, technically no. the magneto will never make as much energy as you use. but it should boost.... time between charges?(man, i only speak English and i can't figure out how to say it..... why is our language so dang hard?)

luckadoo42 says:

Jan 28, 2011. 4:30 PM REPLY Ah, yes, but it takes energy to change energy from one form to the other, and in the process, one almost always losses energy (if you didn't, then that would be 100% efficiency...), so any increase in time between charges would be minimal, which means that any energy gained would probably be countered by something else that just dislike perfection.

badideasrus says:
i see your point, though i didn't quite get that last bit. but still, we both agree it's not going to create perpetual motion.

Feb 11, 2011. 1:10 PM REPLY

magnetos work so well with 'those old dirt bikes' because a gas engine creates tons of energy, much more than needed to get you down the road. off course, you could always peddal :) lol

chinaeu says:

Feb 13, 2011. 10:42 PM REPLY It is a very good idea to build the electric motorcycle alone. I could present some electric motorcycle with cost comparison. please visit our website : http://electric-motor.chinaeu.de/ or http://www.chinaeu.de/

phoenix_locksmith says:
Its color is so attractive and lively.

Feb 11, 2011. 3:20 AM REPLY

gsl202 says:
awesome ! best looking electric conversion bike i've ever seen!

Feb 4, 2011. 10:37 AM REPLY

Stryker says:
Thanks. It was fun to build.

Feb 4, 2011. 1:33 PM REPLY

erfquake says:

Dec 26, 2010. 5:13 PM REPLY Hey Stryker, again: fine job! The battery dimensions/positions together with the bike's own frame restrictions, toward the ultimate goal of maximum performance, must have been a maddening set of compromises to make. Knowing what you do now, after the bike's been made, would you have chosen a bike model other than this one? In retrospect, do you think you nailed it, or would a slightly different cage design have allowed you to opt for the higher amp batteries you wanted?

Stryker says:

Dec 28, 2010. 10:48 AM REPLY I am happy with my bike choice. It's a little heavy but I liked the style and the price was right. However you really need the lightest bike you can get. The new ones made for electric from the ground up are the best. But it all comes down to batteries. Save up to get LiPo or something like that. Lead is just too heavy/big.

darius562 says:
What is the biggest speed?

Dec 5, 2010. 8:11 AM REPLY

Stryker says:
It goes about 70mph.

Dec 6, 2010. 6:38 AM REPLY

stingrayz says:

Oct 20, 2010. 3:57 AM REPLY Why doesn't any one use the transmission from the original gas motor? Electric motors have higher torque. With gears it seams a person would get more distance from a charge. Using a touring type frame like from a Harley, the extra batteries could be in the saddle bags. This would put more weight on the power wheel for the wheelies. Lol Oct 1, 2010. 5:21 AM REPLY so THAT'S how you hid the "extra batteries", you stacked them high and hid them in the gas tank! very clever. i imagine it makes the cycle a little top heavy, but it looks so much more finished like that. have you ever thought about making side panels for "the engine compartment" to hide the batteries altogether? some carbon fiber would look slick there.

zeroemission says:

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-build-a-72Volt-electric-motorcycle/

zeroemission says:

Oct 1, 2010. 5:08 AM REPLY nice clean installation. most other conversions have their batteries bulging out all over, but you did a great job of fitting everything inside the frame and making it look stock. i'd like to build a lightweight & aero 1 seater sandrail style buggy, but can't find the COMPLETE information on how many watts per pound are needed for a given speed. everything i find ends in a different measure eg. kilojoules, watts 7 horsepower etc. it's really frustrating. as i've seen several motorycle designs that can do 55mph & 50 miles with as little as 4x 12v batteries, i would think a low, narrow & light buggy that has a similar weight & drag should be able to do better than that with 8 x 12v batteries. if anyone knows of a COMPLETE calculator or set of formulas for designing EVs, please do share as i can't find the info anywhere with plain english searches anyways.

BIGHAIRYDUDE says:
how big is that?

Sep 24, 2010. 4:11 PM REPLY

hhhttt says:
gotz kweztyons what happenz when it rains? XD

Aug 28, 2010. 7:50 PM REPLY

eddieserrano27 says:

Aug 17, 2010. 8:17 AM REPLY Great information...thanks.... questions? Should I care on how much amps the batteries have? Or the controller will take care of the amps completely? Should focus on how much volt the batteries can produces only?

Bills fan1.0 says:

me too.

Aug 4, 2010. 8:09 AM REPLY

Stryker says:
Around 3000. Check out http://www.ben.cbccinc.com/BEM/BEM.htm for cost breakdown.

Aug 13, 2010. 1:54 PM REPLY

tsubasa53 says:
i was wondering how much it cost to build this

Jul 31, 2010. 12:49 PM REPLY

icecoolwas says:

Jul 28, 2010. 10:48 AM REPLY Hey, this looks like a great project, I deffo want to make one. I was wondering, if I used like 0 AWG wiring, wouldn't it be more effiecient and get me some more range? Also just out of interest, how much did this cost you total? Thanks

Stryker says:

Jul 28, 2010. 12:55 PM REPLY Thanks, I think O AWG would cut down on resistance but you basically only get more range from lighter bike and more battery storage. For more info on this project you can check out http://www.ben.cbccinc.com/BEM/BEM.htm

punkhead58 says:
An alternator would be a nice upgrade from an AC charger.

Mar 12, 2010. 2:54 PM REPLY

Mr.Grinch says:

Jun 25, 2010. 5:34 PM REPLY While researching online for a school project, Alternators (to my surprise) actually output in DC. They generate AC, but before leaving the housing the power is changed to DC by an internal wave rectifier. My class, luckily, had bought a $50 inverter to go from DC to AC for a different part of the project, and we used it on the alternator. The alternator and inverter combined was still smaller than a charger though, (not that we needed one for our project) good observation.

punkhead58 says:

Jun 27, 2010. 12:25 AM REPLY Wait a minute... The bike is powered by an AC motor? And, if not, why is it relevant that alternators produce a direct current (obviously they do, hence their use in automobiles). But, I digress, for I simply meant that this person could wire an alternator to the DC battery bank, chain it to the motor, and convert the mechanical energy that is already being produced into electrical energy to charge the batteries, for that would be more convenient than charging the battery bank off board with an AC adapter. Please excuse my rash tone; I didn't mean to be condescending. You are absolutely correct about the electrical properties of alternators, however the swift change of subject confused me. I do believe that it was a simple misunderstanding due to my wording in a previous post. Have a good day, Sir.

unitdrop_forge says:

Jul 24, 2010. 7:31 AM REPLY Punkhead - the reasons an alternator wouldn't work are that they put out DC voltage at just over 12V. This would not charge a 72V bank because to charge an X-volt battery you need a charger with greater than X volts. Also, an alternator steals the mechanical energy from a vehicle to put back into the electrical system. In this case, you would be stealing energy from the batteries to charge the batteries and it would actually decrease the efficiency. You CAN charge the system via some form of an alternator while stopping. That process is called regenerative braking and there are setups capable of it (http://www.electricmotorsport.com/store/ems_ev_parts_motors_etek-r.php see kit second from bottom). While this instructable powers the bike via a DC motor, you could power it with an AC motor, but your battery source is still DC. All production hybrid

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-build-a-72Volt-electric-motorcycle/

cars use a DC battery pack running AC motors. I hope that helps clarify both your original and follow-up queries!

wraithsqaud says:

Sep 22, 2008. 12:49 PM REPLY is there an advantage to wiring the batteries in series and converting the voltage for the bike systems down instead of wiring them in parallel and converting the voltage up for the motor

DabeAltis says:

Jul 11, 2009. 6:49 PM REPLY Wraithsquad, since nobody ever really answered your question, I'll put in my two cents. There is indeed a tremendous advantage. The power that is downconverted to 12 volts to power the control system, lights, etc., is a very small percentage of the total power of the batteries, and therefore a relatively small and inexpensive DC to DC converter will do the job. If you went the other direction the converter would have to be much larger and much more expensive. It would have to handle the lion's share of the load and battery power. This conversion is not 100% efficient, therefore the power lost in conversion would much higher. The current from the battery pack would be at least six times as high, therefore would require larger conductors and would be much more susceptible to resistance losses. I realize your question is almost a year old, but I am new to Instructables. Hope you get a chance to read this reply, and I hope it helps to answer your question.

knikol says:

Jul 21, 2010. 7:54 PM REPLY I think some of you may have missed one of the points regarding the voltage converter. Only the motor is operated directly from the 72-Volts through the controller. The voltage converter is only there to operate the 12-Volt lights, turn-signals and such. The author's approach is probably the best trade-off in efficiency vs. weight, as opposed to a separate 12-Volt battery for the accessories.

wraithsqaud says:
Thanks. That makes it make a lot more sense now. I was not thinking about the inefficiency of the converter

Mar 13, 2010. 11:55 AM REPLY

dillweed2 says:

Oct 10, 2008. 8:34 PM REPLY The batteries are connected in series, (pos to neg) to increase the voltage. Voltage is electrical pressure, comparable to PSI in a hydraulic system. The higher the voltage, the better efficiency and performance of a product. That's why you saw cordless tools go from 3V to 7V to 14V and now 18Volts. Wiring in parallel ( pos to pos and neg to neg) is how you jump a car battery. Parallel increases the amperage or capacity of the system while keeping the voltage the same. Flashlight batteries are connected in series (a 5 cell would be 7 1/2 volts). That's why electrical companies transfer power in thousands of volts, less resistance is greater efficiency.

Stryker says:
I don't understand what you mean. But I'm no electrical engineer so I doubt I could answer it if I did understand.

Sep 22, 2008. 1:50 PM REPLY

msee says:
Assume 12V deep cycle batteries. Series Connection 6 x 12 = 72 V 72V x 100A = 7.2kW (or ~10 HP)

Sep 25, 2008. 7:16 AM REPLY

Designing a motor/controller combination to handle this voltage and current range is pretty easy and relatively inexpensive. There are MANY currently available. Parallel Connection 1 x 12 = 12 V 12V X 600A = 7.2kW (or ~10 HP) Although a DC-DC converter can be designed to convert 12V 600A to 72V 100A, it will add significant cost and weight, and will reduce efficiency of the overall system. A motor could be designed to use 12V 600A, but it too would be less efficient because... Resistive losses are a function of I*I*R, so as current increases resistive losses go up FAST. The lower you can keep the current, the better. That is one reason why AC power is transmitted over the grid at very high voltages and then stepped down locally.

thewho30rb says:

Jun 16, 2010. 2:59 PM REPLY Firstly, absolutely awesome :-) I would love to find these commercially available some day. Secondly, have you considered doing something Harley-style? I bring it up because I think you could probably fit a significantly higher amount of equipment inside, like extra batteries and such. Jun 7, 2010. 3:53 AM REPLY I started to look into possibly assembling my own electric motorcycle. I have seen the major cost can be the batteries. My question is what about using the Li-ion battery pack from a wrecked prius or a hybrid car using their battery pack? I see the cells and batteries for sale on ebay. May 16, 2010. 11:48 PM REPLY Stryker, can't remember if you asked for link for battery co I spoke of before. If so, can't remember if I gave it to you. http://www.tekbattery.com Batteries are expensive but could be worth it. Also the link for the Vancouver electric vehicle association. My cousin John's an enthusiastic member and is planning an electric conversion using a porsche body. Heres that link as well http://www.veva.bc.ca Also word of caution to Jerkey. most welders will partly fill the tank with water as an added precaution even if they are using "non" sparking means. to cut open the tank

menahunie says:

thelame1 says:

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-build-a-72Volt-electric-motorcycle/

jerkey says:

Feb 11, 2010. 1:57 AM REPLY i am about to do this, and i have removed all the gas I could but there is still a tiny slosh. Even if there weren't a slosh, the fumes are more dangerous than the liquid, because they mix with air. Gasoline is the most dangerous fume because it has the widest range of flammability mixed with air of any flammable vapor. So I will be opening my gas tank with non-sparking means, like a drill, hand tools, and a metal shears (like big pliers but with stubby scissors at the end). Then once I get the whole thing open, i can let it air out for a few days - or toss a match in to speed up the process. How did you determine your gearing ratio for the motor?

Stryker says:

Feb 11, 2010. 12:51 PM REPLY Good luck with the tank, I just flushed my out enough times until I couldn't smell gas and I lived. Anyway I used what some other people did for the gearing and ending up using my second sprocket.

TheWerx says:

May 13, 2010. 8:25 PM REPLY Just a tip for those working on a gas tank. Filling it completely with water forces all gas fumes out of the tank (fumes are forced out as water displaces them). Your tank is now safe to weld and/or grind! May 11, 2010. 3:20 AM REPLY

tetsuxxx says:
one word for you.. WOW..

kNeXFreek says:

Apr 24, 2010. 9:22 AM REPLY Best looking electric bike i have ever seen! And ive seen thousands upon thousands of them across the web. You must be one hell of a builder. Nice freaking job! WOW!

edfel01 says:
awesome really wish i could make one

Mar 30, 2010. 7:28 AM REPLY

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http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-build-a-72Volt-electric-motorcycle/