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Quinn is a small-to-medium-sized cabled purse with a long strap so it can be worn messenger-style across the body.

2006 Y. Kao/CogKnition. All rights reserved. Found an error? Email yvonne@spamcop.net.

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materials
finished size
Body of bag is 9in/22.5cm square

yarn

2 skeins Cascade 220 Superwash (100% superwash wool; 220 yds/201m per 3.5oz/100g ball), shown in color #844
Note: If you choose not to do the braided i-cord strap, one skein will be enough, however you will have little left for swatching

gauge

24 sts/24 rows = 3in/7.5cm square across Pattern A

needles

1 set US 6/4mm 16 circular needles and 1 pair US 6/4mm double-pointed needles, or size needed to obtain gauge Cable needle

notions

Stitch holders or waste yarn Waste yarn for provisional cast-on Stitch markers Tapestry needle

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directions
Quinn is knit in two pieces. First, the top horizontal band is knit flat, and then the ends are grafted together to form a loop. Then the stitches for the main body of the bag are picked up and knit in the round. At the end, the stitches for the front and back of the bag are divided and grafted together. The strap is knit separately and sewn to the inside.

body of bag

Top Band 1. Provisionally cast on 24 stitches. 2. Work 11 repeats of Pattern A. Work a selvedge if desired by slipping the first stitch of every row.
Note: You can reduce the number of ends to weave in later by leaving a long tail when beginning to knit, and using this tail to graft the ends together in step 5.

3. 4. 5.

Work the first 11 rows of Pattern A again. Undo the provisional cast-on edge, slipping the stitches to a spare needle. Graft the live stitches left from step 3 to the stitches from the cast-on edge, being careful not to twist the fabric. Alternatively, you can hold the two ends with the RSs together and perform a 3-needle bind-off. You should now have a loop of fabric. This is the top band of the bag.

2006 Y. Kao/CogKnition. All rights reserved. Found an error? Email yvonne@spamcop.net.

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Main Body 6. Beginning at the seam, pick up 144 stitches all the way around. You will be picking up one stitch for each row. Join for knitting in the round. 7. Place marker to indicate the beginning of the round. Work row 1 of Pattern B. You have just worked the left edge and front side of the bag. Place marker, and work row 1 of Pattern B again. You have just worked the right edge and back side of the bag. Continue working Pattern B in this manner until you have worked 3 full repeats (36 rounds total).

8.

9.

10. Continue working Pattern B in this manner until you have worked 10 more rounds (46 rounds total). Divide Body for Grafting 11. Remove the beginning-of-round marker. Place the two purl stitches (the edge stitches) on a stitch holder and continue working row 11 of Pattern B, beginning with the k2. After you have worked row 11 of Pattern B once, place all the stitches you just worked (the front side of the bag) on a second stitch holder. 12. Remove the stitch marker. Place the two purl stitches (the edge stitches) on a third stitch holder and continue working row 11 of Pattern B, beginning with the k2. 13. Turn work, and work row 12 of Pattern B with the WS facing. The back side of the bag should be one row longer than the front side of the bag.

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14. Slip the remaining stitches (the back side of the bag) to another needle or stitch holder, twisting the columns of four knit stitches so that they resemble a C4B ( ) as you go. 15. Slip the stitches for the front and back sides of the bag onto needles, with WS together and graft the front and back sides of the bag together. Alternatively, turn the bag inside out with RSs together and perform a threeneedle bind-off. 16. Sew the live purl stitches (one pair on each edge of the bag) to the inside of the bag.

braided i-cord strap


1. 2. 3.

Cast on 8 stitches to one double-pointed needle. Knit the first two stitches. Place the remaining stitches on a stitch holder or waste yarn. Slide the stitches on the double-pointed needle to the other end of the needle and knit a 2-stitch i-cord until the cord measures 4 feet (120cm) or desired handle length. Cut yarn, leaving a 4-6in (10-15cm) tail. Do not bind off. Transfer live stitches to a second stitch holder. Slip two stitches from the first stitch holder at the cast-on edge to a double-pointed needle. Join yarn and knit a 2-stitch i-cord until cord measures 4 feet (120cm) or desired handle length. Cut yarn, leaving a 4-6in (10-15cm) tail. Do not bind off. Transfer live stitches to a second stitch holder.

4. 5.

2006 Y. Kao/CogKnition. All rights reserved. Found an error? Email yvonne@spamcop.net.

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6.

Repeat steps 4-5 until all eight stitches have been knitted into i-cord. You should have four strands of icord flowing from the same cast-on edge, each with two live stitches at the end. Anchor the cast-on edge to something sturdy, like an armchair or the floor, with pins or tape. Tightly braid the four strands of i-cord together. If the strands of i-cord are different lengths after braiding, even things up by unraveling a few rows of the longer cords. Transfer the eight live stitches at the ends of the i-cord to a double-pointed needle, taking care to preserve the order of the strands in the braid.

7.

8.

9.

10. Using one of the tails you left in step 4, bind off the 8 stitches.

finishing
1. 2.

Block the bag to measurements. Block the strap tightly, stretching it to the desired length, if necessary. Using the leftover ends of the yarn, attach the ends of the strap to the inside of the bag.

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pattern a

Row 1 (RS): k3, p1, k2, p4, C4B, p4, k2, p1, k3 Row 2 and all even-numbered (WS) rows: knit the knits and purl the purls as they face you Row 3: Row 5: Row 7: Row 9: Row 11: k3, p1, [T3F, p2, T3B] twice, p1, k3 k3, [p2, T3F, T3B] twice, p2, k3 k3, p3, C4F, p4, C4F, p3, k3 k3, [p2, T3B, T3F] twice, p2, k3 k3, p1, [T3B, p2, T3F] twice, p1, k3

2006 Y. Kao/CogKnition. All rights reserved. Found an error? Email yvonne@spamcop.net.

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pattern b
Row 1: p2, k2, p3, C4B, p3, k2, p1, k2, [p4, C4B] 4 times, p4, k2, p1, k2, p3, C4B, p3, k2

Row 2 and all even-numbered rows: knit the knits and purl the purls as they face you Row 3: p2, k2, p2, T3B, T3F, p2, k2, p1, T3F, [p2, T3B, T3F] 4 times, p2, T3B, p1, k2, p2, T3B, T3F, p2, k2 p2, k2, p1, T3B, p2, T3F, p1, k2, p2, T3F, [T3B, p2, T3F] 4 times, T3B, p2, k2, p1, T3B, p2, T3F, p1, k2 p2, k2, p1, k2, p4, k2, p1, k2, p3, [C4F, p4] 4 times, C4F, p3, k2, p1, k2, p4, k2, p1, k2 p2, k2, p1, T3F, p2, T3B, p1, k2, p2, T3B, [T3F, p2, T3B] 4 times, T3F, p2, k2, p1, T3F, p2, T3B, p1, k2

Row 5:

Row 7:

Row 9:

Row 11: p2, k2, p2, T3F, T3B, p2, k2, p1, T3B, [p2, T3F, T3B] 4 times, p2, T3F, p1, k2, p2, T3F, T3B, p2, k2

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key to chart symbols/pattern abbreviations


k on RS; p on WS p on RS; k on WS T3B Slip next stitch to cable needle and hold to back; k2, then p1 from cable needle Slip next two stitches to cable needle and hold to front; p1, then k2 from cable needle Slip next two stitches to cable needle and hold to back; k2, then k2 from cable needle Slip next two stitches to cable needle and hold to front; k2, then k2 from cable needle

T3F

C4B

C4F

fine print
This pattern is free for personal and non-profit/charity use only. Please do not knit items for profit or resale from this pattern or use this pattern for other commercial purposes. If you would like to use this pattern for commercial purposes, please email yvonne@spamcop.net Please do not distribute copies of this pattern in print, electronically, or in any other format, for free or for pay.

2006 Y. Kao/CogKnition. All rights reserved. Found an error? Email yvonne@spamcop.net.

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