RUSTIC CARPENTRY WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS AND DIAGRAMS EDITED BY : oma PAUL N. HASLUCK EDITOR oF “WORK” AND “BUILDING WORLD” AUTHOR OF “ HANDYBOOKS FOR HANDICRAFTS,” ETC. ETe, PHILADELPHIA DAVID McKAY, PusLisHER 610, SOUTH WASHINGTON SQUARE 1908> a3 wo oo 3 rw) 00 Rerdareor prnchon Gan. 47 PREFACE. oe Txis Handbook contains, in a form convenient for everyday use, a number of articles on Rustic Carpentry contributed by -various authors to Work—one of the journals it is my fortune to edit. Readers who may desire additional information respecting special details of the matters dealt with in this Handbook, or instructions on kindred subjects, should address a question to the Editor of Work, La Belle Sauvage, London, EC., so that it may be answered in the columns of that journal. P. N. HASLUCK. La Belle Sauvage, London. Apri!, 1907.CONTENTS. OBAPTER: a PAGE T= Light Rustic Work IL —Flower Stands, Vases, etc. . . . 22 Ill—Tablee. . . . . : - + 36 IV.—Chairs and Seats. . . i - + 40 V.—Gates and Fences. «wwe Vi—Rosery Walk =. 2 2... 6 NIL Pores ae ey VIII.—Canopy for Swing. ‘ ¢ 5 ey TX.—Aviary i . : 7 : Bi ‘ BS X.—Foot-bridges. . : : . : . 92 Xi—Verandahs . 2. . eee. C8 XIL—Tool Houses, Garden Shelters, etc. . + 106 XITl—Summer Houses. . . «el. 126 Index. eee eee streets tiie LODLIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS, FIG. 1, Photoeraph, Frame PAGE Wall lana ’ 10 1 Attaching Support to aitted. Joint" 7,.8.—Flower Holder; 14, gl pantle Hall Stand 12, 13.—Plant Stool . 19, 17.—Flower-pot Stand 18:—Bending Saplings - 19.—Fixing Rails, etc., to Posts. . « . 20.—Vase _ on Tripod Stand sw. 21—Joint of | Hexagon Sides of Vase . 22,—Seouring Sides "and pees of Vase to Bas 23.—Section “of Twit ‘Angles of Vase 24, 25.—Flower-pot Stand 26. Joining Ralls to Up- right ea oy porting | End elves of Flower- a2 Stand ing Centre Shelves 29.. dette ‘Square Vase : 30.—Large Hexagonal Vase 31.—Vase with Claw Foot 32.—Foot, of Rustic Table 33 Gargen Plant Tub . 5.—Mouldings . ‘lant Vase . ectangular Garden Plant Stand. . 38-40.—Rustic Pedestal ‘lower-pot, Stand at —Armehair’ . 47.—Fixing Seat Rails to Leg 48.—Plan. of Armchair Seat Frame. 49, 50—Garden Seat | 42, 51.—Joints of Hails’ and Posts. of Armchair .~ it 12 Seat... .—Part Plan of Seat ~ 54, 55.—Garden Seat 44, 56.—Front Beil, Cross Rail, and 'Battens §7.—Part Plan of Seat . 58-60. qaarden Seat with, Oanop; : 61—Plan of Canopy 62, 62, 65, Canopy F Panels . Plas eat $567" Garden Gate | 82, 68-70.—Joints in Gate Frame n, To Hitioe Ends of 13. —olosing Stile: 74-77.—Rustic Gates . 78-80, 7 81, 8 55, eae ‘Trellia and .— Rustic ‘with Seats Gate. afeeae tee 83.—Vertical Section of Trellis End Post and Trellis Back of Seat for Trellis BeEEEEEEE 86.—Alternative Design for Gate . 87.—Hanging and Lath: ing Gate 98.—Catch for Gate | 89, 90.—Rustic Carriage 44 45 45 46 ATAS 50 50 50 Entrance . . 64, 65 Rosery Walk 92.—Roof of Rose 93—Entrance to Walk 94, 95.—Porch « 96 Beat and Floor of” Walk onery 39 Roof for Porch 100.—Gable for Pore! a 101, 102-—Rustic Canopy for Swiny 7, 103. —iging Middle “Post, of Canopy to, Sill 104.Joints of | Rails, Struts, and Posts for Canovy . 105.—Securing Cross Raila to Plates and Posts of Canopy f 106, 107. — Hook and Thimble for Oanopy8 RUSTIC CARPENTRY. PIG. PAC 108, 103. —Fenced Seat for at 110. —Pising P Rove to “Bye: a 111, 12 aviar 84, bo 113, 114. Fone of Rails pene Uprights for 115.Sectional Plan of viary : fa Ea 116.—Oross | Beciion” of 117. —welr' Inder’ View of jottom of Aviary . 88 118,—Deor Wires Tor ar: 119.Part Longitudinal Section of Aviary. 89 120.—Half Plan of Aviary 00! i 121, 122, — Rustic Foot: 123.—Girders for Foot- jes ce eae 124, 25. Joint of ‘Post 126,—Middie "Hail prop ridge 94 127, 128. soln: of 8 Sera ‘ost of Foot bridge 4 129.—Twig | Hollow il, + 94 130.—Elevated Bridge : 95 131—Girder | and — Post ited to Sleeper . 96 132.—Eloveted ‘Foot brides at Tower Step (Fig. 130). ce 133, 134.—Verandah - 99, 101 135.—Bottom of Post for 86 jaing nee 140.—Ground Plan of Rus- io 141.—Oay Pilaster . 142.—Garden Snuggery | 112 143.—Ground Framework of Garden Snug- ery seein 144.—Back Framework a Garden Snug- at 445.—Snuggery Pore 146.—Window- Soard. 147, 148.—Sections ‘Soneeery Walls ©. 117, 149-151.—Garden 118-121, louse. of Tool House GB | FIG. 152.—Seat of Garden Re- 3 169.—Garden’ Shelter ai PAGE wwomten: aaisraiien7s188 153.—Joint of Garden Re treat at O (Fig. 154.—Detail " of Front Joints (see 0, Fig. 1 124 155.—Alternative Method of Joining Rails to ei 125 ae on fiddle 8 (Fig. 182) 126 38 | 158-161. qusanto Summer 126-131 162. 164—Belter ‘tor ‘Ten- - 165.—Connecting Plates te, rner Post . 135 166.—Fixing Sleeper to oe Post 167 —gection of Flooring. 135 168.—Fini: 135 Front Eaves. . 135 170.—Section of Seat | 135 171 — Strapping 172-174.—Octagonal Sum: mer House 175.—Collar Posts En of Plates eee 176.—Timbera over ' En- trance of Octagon- al Summer House , 141 177.—Window Bide —_ of Qetagonal Summer + 143 178, 179-—'Table for Qotag: onal Summer House 145 180. Seat, side of Qctag: " onal Bummer House 147, 181.—Mosaic Seat Tete “Octegensl Sum: | mer House with Three Gables . 151-153 185, 186.—Roof for Octag- onal Summer House 153 1e7.—Seouring , Glass Rustic Ossement «154 188, 109. aloe r Oct a Sumner ‘House 155 190. —Part, Plan of Octag- onal Bummer. pte 156 191. Horizontal fh Door Posts 156 1114 of | 192, Pant i Rection of Bide i 7 193.- —Figine Plate’ to eee eat OT: 194—Finlal | || 1 187RUSTIC CARPENTRY. CHAPTER I. LIGHT RUSTIC WORK. Rustic carpentry does not demand great skill in woodworking, but it does require a large amount of artistic perception. The tools needed are but few, and the materials employed are compara- tively cheap, although in many districts they are becoming dearer every year. It may be said that any articles made from the now popular bamboo may be made quite as effectively in light rustic work. For light rustic work, sticks of hazel, cherry, yew, blackthorn, birch, larch, fir, and the prun- ings of many varieties of shrubs may be used; but it is necessary that the material should be cut at the proper season, and thoroughly dried before being worked up. The sticks should be cut in mid-winter, as at that time the sap is at rest; if cut in the summer time the bark will peel off. If peeled sticks are required, they should be cut in the spring, when the sap is rising, as at that time the rind will come off easily. In some dis- tricts the eopses are cleared of undergrowth periodically, and the sticks (generally hazel) sold to hurdle and spar makers. A selection of these sticks would be very suitable for the purpose here described.10 BUSTIC CARPENTRY. The sticks should be stacked in an open shed in an upright position if possible, and in such a manner that the air can freely circulate around them. When they are required for fishing rods or walking sticks they are hung up to season— this keeps them straighter; but the hanging of them up is not necessary for the work about to be dealt with. When the sticks have been put away for from six to twelve months, according to size, Fig. 1—Photograph Frame and Wall Bracket Combined. they will be ready for use, after being rubbed with a cloth or brushed to clean off the dust and bring up the colour of the bark. Fir cones may often be worked into a design, and bits of rough bark and the warts and burrs found on old elm trees may be collected by the rustic worker and put by for future use. One method of treatment for designs in light rustic work is to split the sticks and use them to overlay the work with a Swiss pattern, asLIGHT RUSTIC WORK. ri shown by Fig. 1; another method is to work the sticks up after the manner that canes are used in bamboo furniture (see Figs. 3 and 42, pp. 12 and 36). Fig. 1 represents a wall bracket with a photo- graph or mirror in the frame. To make this, the piece forming the back is first cut out of #-in. deal. The shelf, of 3-in. deal, is then nailed to Fig. 2.Section of Bracket, showing Fixing of Glass. the bottom edge. Some straight hazel, fir, or other sticks are next selected and split; these are nailed round the edges of the back, and round the opening at the centre. The pieces round the opening overlap the edges about } in., to form a rebate for the glass. The bare spaces at the sides and top may be covered in the following manner : Take a piece of brown elm bark and run a saw into it. Catch the sawdust, and, after warming the wood, cover it with thin glue. Sprinkle the