Tropical Fish Secrets

Your Ultimate Guide to Tropical Fish
By Sean LeMay
2003
INTRODUCTION
Welcome to Tropical Fish Secrets! This is truly your ultimate guide to successfully raising tropical fish whether its in a saltwater tank or fresh water aquarium weve got the answers to all your questions in one easyto-use place. From how to raise the more common species like guppies or tetras, to the more exotic saltwater species like Angelfish or Lionfish, to how to set up your aquarium to controlling algae, from choosing compatible fish to what sort of filtration system you should use its all here! Pictures, advice, tips and some really, really interesting facts! So, cmon lets get started weve got a lot of territory to cover!
Tropical Fish Secrets
Table of Contents
INTRODUCTION ........................................................................................................................................... 2 AQUARIUMS THROUGHOUT HISTORY .................................................................................................... 6 A BASIC SHOPPING LIST............................................................................................................................ 8 START HERE .............................................................................................................................................. 8 CHOOSING YOUR AQUARIUM ................................................................................................................ 9 LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION .................................................................................................. 9 CHOOSING YOUR TANK .................................................................................................................... 10 WHAT SIZE TANK IS RIGHT FOR YOU? ............................................................................................... 10 TANK STANDS ........................................................................................................................................ 12 TANK HOODS ........................................................................................................................................ 13 HEATING ................................................................................................................................................ 14 LIGHTING ............................................................................................................................................... 15 FILTRATION ............................................................................................................................................ 15 Chemical ......................................................................................................................................... 15 Mechanical ..................................................................................................................................... 15 Biological .......................................................................................................................................... 16 TYPES OF FILTRATION DEVICES .......................................................................................................... 16 Sponge Filters .................................................................................................................................. 17 Box Filters .......................................................................................................................................... 17 Power Filters ..................................................................................................................................... 18 Under-gravel Filters ........................................................................................................................ 18 AERATION............................................................................................................................................. 18 SUBSTRATE ............................................................................................................................................. 19 Common Aquarium Gravel ........................................................................................................ 20 Sand .................................................................................................................................................. 20 Aragonite ......................................................................................................................................... 20 Crushed Corals ............................................................................................................................... 20 Vermiculate ..................................................................................................................................... 21 Laterite .............................................................................................................................................. 21 How deep should you layer the substrate? ........................................................................... 21 What not to use as substrate ...................................................................................................... 22 DECORATIONS ..................................................................................................................................... 22 Start with a background .............................................................................................................. 22 Add a centerpiece ....................................................................................................................... 23 Add plants ....................................................................................................................................... 23 LIVE PLANTS ........................................................................................................................................... 24 Plant essentials ................................................................................................................................ 24 Lighting ............................................................................................................................................. 24 Substrate .......................................................................................................................................... 25 CO2 ................................................................................................................................................... 25 Selecting Your Plants..................................................................................................................... 25 Basic Plant Care ............................................................................................................................. 27 A WORD ABOUT SAFETY ..................................................................................................................... 28 SETTING UP YOUR TANK ...................................................................................................................... 29 A little prep work ............................................................................................................................ 29 ASSEMBLING THE TANK COMPONENTS .......................................................................................... 30
For a freshwater tank ................................................................................................................................ 29
After the tank stabilizes ................................................................................................................ 30 Introducing the fish ........................................................................................................................ 31 SPECIFIC TYPES OF TANKS .......................................................................................................................... 31 FISHBOWLS OR DESKTOP AQUARIUMS ........................................................................................... 31 FRESHWATER TANKS ............................................................................................................................ 36 Water Quality .................................................................................................................................. 36
Ammonia ..................................................................................................................................................... 36 Nitrites ............................................................................................................................................................ 36 Nitrates .......................................................................................................................................................... 37
Water Chemistry............................................................................................................................. 37
Hardness (GH and KH) .............................................................................................................................. 38 pH ................................................................................................................................................................... 38 Chlorine and Chloramine ........................................................................................................................ 39 Phosphorous and Nitrates ........................................................................................................................ 39
SALTWATER TANKS ............................................................................................................................... 40 Reef Tanks ........................................................................................................................................ 40 Lets talk for a moment about invertebrates ......................................................................... 42 The Basic Requirements of Reef Tanks ..................................................................................... 44 The Basic Requirements of Fish-Only Tanks ............................................................................. 45 Lights and Filters ............................................................................................................................. 46 Water Circulation ........................................................................................................................... 46 Other Supplies ................................................................................................................................. 46 Setting Up and Testing Your Equipment .................................................................................. 47
Putting It All Together ................................................................................................................................ 47 Cycling .......................................................................................................................................................... 48 Live Rock (not Jazz) ................................................................................................................................... 48 After Cycling ............................................................................................................................................... 49
TANK CLEANING AND MAINTENANCE ........................................................................................... 51 Tank cleaning ................................................................................................................................. 51 Daily tasks ......................................................................................................................................... 51 Weekly tasks .................................................................................................................................... 51 Monthly tasks ................................................................................................................................... 52 Quarterly tasks ................................................................................................................................ 52 HERE FISHY, FISHY, FISHY ........................................................................................................................ 53 TEMPERAMENT ..................................................................................................................................... 53 SELECTING HEALTHY FISH ................................................................................................................... 53 WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A FISH .......................................................................................................... 54 FEEDING YOUR FISH............................................................................................................................. 55 Do You Know What Type of Feeder You Have? ................................................................... 55 Carnivores ........................................................................................................................................ 55 Herbivores ........................................................................................................................................ 56 Omnivores ........................................................................................................................................ 57 Suspension or Filter Feeders ........................................................................................................ 57 CHOW TIME........................................................................................................................................... 60 How Much Should I Feed? .......................................................................................................... 60 Basic Food Tips................................................................................................................................ 61 Nutritional Composition ............................................................................................................... 61 Flake, Tablet and Pelleted Foods ....................................................................................................... 61 Frozen Foods ................................................................................................................................... 62 Freeze-dried Foods ........................................................................................................................ 62 Live Foods ........................................................................................................................................ 62
Crustaceans ................................................................................................................................................ 63 Worms ........................................................................................................................................................... 63
Insect Larvae ............................................................................................................................................... 63 Insects ........................................................................................................................................................... 64 Vertebrates .................................................................................................................................................. 64
Micro Foods ..................................................................................................................................... 64 Vitamins ............................................................................................................................................ 65 POPULAR FRESHWATER SPECIES ............................................................................................................ 66 Angelfish ........................................................................................................................................... 67 Discus ................................................................................................................................................ 67 Tiger Barbs ........................................................................................................................................ 67 Neon Tetra ....................................................................................................................................... 68 Red Tailed Shark ............................................................................................................................. 68 Silver Dollars ..................................................................................................................................... 68 Severum............................................................................................................................................ 69 Lemon Cichlid ................................................................................................................................. 69 Porthole Catfish .............................................................................................................................. 69 Mollies................................................................................................................................................ 70 Oscar ................................................................................................................................................. 70 Siamese Fighting Fish (Betta) ...................................................................................................... 70 Gourami ........................................................................................................................................... 71 Guppy ............................................................................................................................................... 71 Platy ................................................................................................................................................... 71 POPULAR SALTWATER SPECIES ............................................................................................................... 72 Clownfish .......................................................................................................................................... 72 Cowfish ............................................................................................................................................. 72 Damsels ............................................................................................................................................ 72 Flame Angelfish .............................................................................................................................. 73 Flame Hawkfish ............................................................................................................................... 73 Golden Seahorse ........................................................................................................................... 73 Koran Angelfish............................................................................................................................... 74 Lionfish............................................................................................................................................... 74 Niger Triggerfish .............................................................................................................................. 74 Polka-Dot Grouper ........................................................................................................................ 75 Yellow Tang ..................................................................................................................................... 75 WHO GETS ALONG WITH WHOM? ................................................................................................... 76 COMMON FISHY ILLNESSES & AILMENTS............................................................................................. 78 FIRST AID KIT........................................................................................................................................... 78 SYMPTOMS THAT ARE NOT NORMAL:.............................................................................................. 79 BAD WATER QUALITY .......................................................................................................................... 79 FRESHWATER ICH ................................................................................................................................. 81 FIN ROT ................................................................................................................................................... 81 INJURIES................................................................................................................................................ 82 DROPSY.................................................................................................................................................. 83 HEAD AND LATERAL LINE EROSION (HLLE OR HOLE-IN-HEAD DISEASE) .................................. 83 SWIM BLADDER DISORDERS .............................................................................................................. 83 LARGE EXTERNAL PARASITES (AS OPPOSED TO ICH) ................................................................... 84 VELVET .................................................................................................................................................... 84 CONCLUSION............................................................................................................................................ 85
AQUARIUMS THROUGHOUT HISTORY

The sea has always been an endless source of fascination for mankind, not just for those who earned their living from it, but for those who are spellbound by the infinite variety of the creatures that live there. Its a mysterious and mesmerizing place, and humans have long tried to recapture that magic in a smaller, more viewable form. You might be surprised to learn just how far back in history people started keeping aquariums. Early civilizations such as the Egyptians, Greeks and Romans were all known to have kept fish for purposes other than to eat. Did you know Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) first started documenting the science of fish (called Ichthyology) by writing about fish habits and defining local fish species? Yep, its true. The Sung Dynasty in China was the first recorded (960 A.D.) keepers of goldfish, but they kept them in ponds, so it wasnt quite the same thing. Close, though. Ponds stocked with Goldfish gained in popularity among the privileged class from about 968 to 975 A.D., and eating of the fish was strictly prohibited. In 1136 the Emperor Hiau-Tsung started to breed these fish, and kept them in a more controlled environment, which helped evolve new breeds and made them even more popular throughout the country. By 1510, Goldfish werent just for the rich and famous anymore but common among the population. Many houses had ponds with a wide variety of goldfish, and successful breeding techniques were a closely guarded secret. The very first book about keeping fish was written in China in 1596: Essay about the Goldfish. By 1616 Goldfish had arrived in Japan, where the Japanese quickly mastered the art of breeding. Japan remains today the largest exporter of Goldfish in the world. By 1691, Goldfish had made its appearance in Europe, beginning in Portugal, and moving to England by the 1700s.
After that, not much changed until 1850, which was a big year for fish breeding and aquariums in general. First, Goldfish made it to the U.S. in 1850, where they quickly became a star attraction. Then, an Englishman named Robert Warrington built the first aquarium ever constructed. Warringtons theory was that by building a glass structure filled with sand on the bottom, snails and plants, fish could live forever in a completely self-contained world. The plants would provide oxygen to the fish, the snails would eat decaying plants and lay eggs and the fish would feed off the snail eggs. It was a perfectly contained ecosystem. As far-fetched as his theory sounds by todays standards, thats really how aquariums were successfully set up and used for the next hundred years. Thats right up until the 1950s there was very little change to aquariums. They were glass-sided, held together by steel construction and had no filtration systems or heaters as we know them today. As they say weve come a long way, baby! With todays modern technology, we now can measure individual components of water conditions from pH levels to temperature to salinity, and everything in between. Its more complicated, but our fish are happier and generally live longer. And isnt that what its all about?
A BASIC SHOPPING LIST

Aquariums are a lot of work. You need to make sure the water is clean and aerated, the algae is controlled, the fish have adequate food supplies and the plants, if you use live plants, receive enough nutrients and light. The rewards can be endless; just make sure youre prepared to do the work necessary to cultivate your aquarium and see it thrive!
START HERE
Here is a list of the basic supplies youll need, regardless of whether you have a saltwater or freshwater tank: An aquarium An aquarium stand Air pumps and filter of your choice Lights A hood or canopy A background Decorations Substrate Plants (live or plastic) Heater Chemicals Fish Food Fish - Dont forget the fish! Thermometer A net Cleaning supplies (such as a scrubby on a stick, a small round brush and a bucket reserved solely for aquarium use) A vacuum hose/siphon tube A water test kit Those are the basic supplies youll need. In each section that follows Ill go into more of the specifics youll need for the type of tank you have: freshwater and saltwater, and the choices that are available.
CHOOSING YOUR AQUARIUM

The very first decision you need to make is whether to have a freshwater tank, or a saltwater tank. A word of warning: if this is your first aquarium, my advice would be to start with a freshwater tank. While its true saltwater tanks are more exotic and beautiful, its equally true that theyre more expensive and much more complex. In a saltwater tank youll need to worry about salinity and water conditioning and even the temperature is a critical factor; clearly its a much more complicated setup. A freshwater tank, on the other hand, is easier, cheaper and the chances youll be killing a lot of fish drops dramatically with a freshwater tank! You dont want to be a fish murderer do you?
LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION

As with any housing issue, the choice of real estate must be considered carefully. (Well, it is a housing issue its just housing for your fish!) Before choosing the size of your aquarium, choose the location. Ideally, you want it where you can see it, and enjoy the sight of your fish swimming around their new home. (If youre going to put it in the closet, whats the point?) A couple of pointers: Dont put the tank in direct sunlight even though it makes the water and the decorations and the fish look pretty, it also encourages temperature fluctuation and promotes algae growth. Dont locate your tank near a heating or cooling source for the same reasons. If you put the tank directly over your heating vent, thinking it will help keep the water warmer, think again. It may indeed keep the water warmer, but it wont be consistent, and your fish will be experiencing hot flashes before their time! Dont place your tank against a north-facing wall this is frequently the coolest side of the house, and youll either need to stock your aquarium with cooler-water tolerant fish, or run up a higher electric bill using the heater more often. Tropical Fish Secrets 9
Find a nice, level floor area for your tank tanks that sit on uneven floors have a tendency to develop stress cracks over time. Make sure you have an electrical outlet within reach for the simple reason that youre going to need plugs for lights, pumps and heaters. Make sure your tank is completely accessible youll need to easily reach your heater controls and air valves. Be certain there is enough room above the aquarium to freely maneuver a net, or reach into the tank to replant plants or move the decorations around. Make your tank an integral part of the room Im not saying you have to design your room around the tank, just make it look like you did some preplanning, and the tank isnt just an afterthought.
CHOOSING YOUR TANK

There are a bazillion (ok, that might be a slight exaggeration, but its pretty close!) variations of tanks available on the market today, from traditional fish bowls to rectangular to just about every geometric shape you might imagine. The most common construction is an all-glass type, with clear silicon that is used to seal the joints so they dont leak, but acrylic tanks are becoming ever more popular.
WHAT SIZE TANK IS RIGHT FOR YOU?

Water is heavy. It weighs 8.3 pounds per US gallon, or 2.2 pounds per liter, so keep that in mind when choosing the size of your tank. Lets say you have a big living room, and you want to start out with a nice 75-gallon aquarium. Just the tank and water alone will weigh about 650 pounds! Youll need to have plenty of support for that tank if you want to avoid a sudden tidal wave in the living room. Trying to calculate the capacity of a tank? Use these guidelines: For US gallons: take Height of tank X Width of Tank X Length of tank and divide that total by 231
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For liters: take Height of tank X Width of Tank X Length of tank and divide that total by 1,000. Happy fish need plenty of room, but youll also need to consider the price of the tank, the fish and all your equipment. It does you little good to buy the biggest tank you can afford, if you cant afford to equip and stock it properly. You might be surprised to learn that its actually easier to take care of a larger tank than a smaller one. All tanks, whether freshwater or saltwater, will accumulate toxins and waste material. These substances are dispersed more in a larger volume of water, so the water stays cleaner for a longer period of time in a bigger tank. That means its a lot less work for you! My own personal recommendation would be to start with a tank not less than 10 gallons its easier to care for than a smaller tank, and gives you a wider selection of fish and plants to choose from.
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TANK STANDS
The two most common tank stands are made of wood and wrought iron, although there are also tank stands made of acrylic that are becoming more popular. As weve already discussed, a fully-filled tank is heavy even a 10 gallon tank, filled with water, decorations and fish will weigh somewhere in the neighborhood of 75 to 80 pounds. The first criterion is that your stand is strong enough to support your tank and that it will provide a level and stable surface for the tank. A stand that is not level, or that doesnt provide strong support, can put a twisting stress pressure on the glass, causing fractures and breaks. Not to mention leaks! The second factor that you should consider is the aesthetics of the stand do you want a wooden stand that can be color-coordinated to match the other furniture in your room? Or maybe a wrought iron stands, which are stronger, but do have a tendency to rust over time. And acrylic may or may not be strong enough to hold the weight of the tank when filled with water, depending on the size tank you choose. Practicality is the final piece of the puzzle some stands are made with a storage area underneath the tank platform. This is a convenient place to store supplies and equipment. You can always use a table-top, a sideboard, even a bookcase if its bolted to the wall, but make sure that the surface where you put the aquarium is stable and level. Ultimately, its a personal decision based on personal preference; just make sure you choose your location carefully, because its very difficult to move a fully-filled and equipped tank once its all set up.
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TANK HOODS
You need to have a cover, or hood, on your aquarium. A hood reduces evaporation, which saves water and helps keep the tank environment more stable, gives you a solid surface to place the lights, and keeps your fish in the tank and the kids toys and the cat out of the tank.
A cover also serves several other very necessary purposes. It will save you money by reducing heat loss. By keeping the air temperature above the water the same as the tank water temperature, the water will stay warmer and will not overwork your heater. Tank hoods come in two basic styles: the Glass Canopy style and the Full Hood. The Glass Canopy style is usually made of glass or acrylic, and has a hinge in the center as well as a plastic filler strip that can be trimmed to fit the filter or other accessories. The Full Hood is just that a full hood that stretches across the entire top of the aquarium. These are frequently made of plastic, sometimes acrylic, and usually match the trim on the tank. Neither one is especially better than the other I personally prefer the glass canopy style, only because it seems to last a little longer in my tanks (no warping as Ive seen with the plastic ones.) The cover should fit securely and cover the top of the tank. A lot of retailers sell starter kits which include a canopy designed specifically for the tank size. Kits are a good idea - usually you get a better price on a package deal. But dont assume they include everythinglike a heater!
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HEATING
Tropical freshwater fish require a water temperature of right around 75F (24C). Since your typical normal room temperature is lower than this, a tropical aquarium must have a heater and a thermometer. The heater must be powerful enough to heat the aquarium adequately, but not so powerful that, if it malfunctions, it could raise the temperature too much, or too quickly, which can result in a temperature shock to the fish. If you have a larger tank (usually over 36 inches long) you may want to have two heaters, one at each end of the tank. This helps to distribute heat evenly throughout the aquarium, and also helps guard against temperature fluctuations if one of the heaters malfunctions.
Youll also need a thermometer. Thermometers come in two basic designs: a typical thermometer filled with mercury which floats on top of the water, or a plastic strip with liquid crystals that change colors to display temperature. The reverse side has an adhesive strip, so the thermometer can be stuck to the glass of the tank.
I personally prefer the second type (liquid crystal) because its easier to read and since its stuck on the outside of the tank it doesnt become slimed over with algae. Plus, you dont have to worry about the thermometer breaking in the tank and poisoning all your fish with mercury!
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LIGHTING
Lights come in two types, fluorescent recommendation is to use fluorescent. and incandescent. My
Fluorescent bulbs dont radiate enough heat to substantially change the water temperature, and typically last much longer than incandescent lights. Fluorescent bulbs for aquariums come in many different types and price ranges, but your best bet here is a plain full-spectrum bulb, since it gives off light that is closer to natural light. Incandescent bulbs consume more electricity, as well as give off an intense heat that affects the water temperature. Both forms of lighting stimulate plant growth and enhance fish coloration but fluorescent appears to perform somewhat better
FILTRATION
Filtration is broken down into three different categories: chemical, mechanical, and biological.
Chemical
Chemical filtration uses activated carbon, which removes harmful gases from the water as it is passed through a carbon filter. Chemical filtration isnt absolutely necessary many tanks operate fine without it, but chemical filtration is typically very easy to use with most filters.
Mechanical
Mechanical filtration doesnt remove any toxic substances from the water, but instead collects them in one place, where they can still pollute the water, but can also be removed from the aquarium more easily, sort of like a broom sweeping waste into a dustpan, and then the dustpan gets emptied into the garbage. Mechanical filtration also helps to keep the water clear. Biological filtration and mechanical filtration usually take place together.
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Biological
The third type of filtration, biological filtration, is the most comprehensive, because it uses the bacteria to change harmful fish waste products, ammonia and nitrite, into a less dangerous compound, nitrate. Biological filtration requires a "breaking in" period while the bacteria establish themselves on the filter medium (thats the stuff used in your filter to well, filter. Such as the sponge in a sponge filter, or the floss in a box filter, for example.) This process takes a few weeks, and requires ammonia for the bacteria to eat, which can be provided by adding a couple of healthy fish full of pee and vinegar (not really, but you get the idea!) until the nitrite and ammonia levels have stabilized. (You can test these levels with your water testing kit, which well talk about shortly.) This process can be sped up by either adding some filter media from an existing tank, or by adding a bottle of the bacteria which is commonly available in your local pet store, but make sure its been handled correctly and that the bacteria are still alive. The first method is a little better, but it means you have to know someone who has an established aquarium with an under-gravel filter. They give you a cup of gravel, which you then spread across the floor of the tank if youre using an under-gravel filter, or it can be placed inside a box or power filter, or on top of a sponge filter.
TYPES OF FILTRATION DEVICES

The four most common types of filtration devices are sponge filters box filters power filters under-gravel filters
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Sponge Filters
Sponge filters are relatively inexpensive, but theyre also limited in what they can do. The idea behind a sponge filter is that air is pumped into an airlift tube. When the air moves back up the tube, water is pulled up through the sponge with it. This creates a vacuum around the sponge, and water is pulled from the area around the sponge to replace the water that is drawn through the sponge. The sponge filter has several drawbacks: Its really inefficient; it can become clogged with debris and algae, plus it looks pretty unattractive in your tank. Some sponge filters are available with a power head at the top of the airlift tube that replaces the air pump. A power head is simply a water pump which draws water directly through the sponge, instead of drawing air followed by water. This increases the water flow, aeration, and mechanical filtration, but it also clogs the sponge faster. To clean a sponge filter, youll need to siphon some of the water in the aquarium into a bucket, and use that water to rinse out the sponge. Then place the sponge filter back in the tank, and throw out the water you used to rinse it. (Using tank water to rinse the sponge will make sure you dont destroy all the bacteria that have been breeding on the sponge.)
Box Filters
Box filters mostly use carbon as the filter medium, instead of a sponge, but they can also use floss, pH buffers and ammonia removers. Gravel from an established tank can also be put into the box to help speed up the breaking in period in the tank more quickly. Box filters can be either external, e.g. hanging on the back of the tank, or internal, resting on the bottom. The internal filter works very much like a sponge filter, except the water comes through the box instead of through a sponge. The external filter (the one hanging on the back of the tank) works with a siphon and an air pump system. Water is siphoned out of the tank and into the box, where it cycles through the filter floss and carbon, after which it is pumped back into the aquarium with an air pump.
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To clean box filters, you rinse the floss in water from the aquarium, and replace the carbon periodically, according to manufacturer directions.
Power Filters
Power filters work essentially the same way as a box filter, but the air pump is replaced by a water pump. This allows for more water to be drawn through the filter in a great quantity, as well as much more quietly. Power filters typically have better biological filtration than either sponge or box filters.
Under-gravel Filters
Under-gravel filters are located, (oh!) under the gravel in the tank. Theres a plate underneath the gravel, with two tubes attached. Air is pumped down these tubes, and when it surfaces, it pulls water up with it. (These air pumps can also be replaced with a power head, which acts the same way as it does with a power filter in that it pumps more water and is much quieter. When the water is pulled up the tube, more water is pulled down through the gravel. This provides the circulation of oxygen that the nitrogen-changing bacteria need to live.
AERATION
Heres a news flash fish need air in the tank to survive! They dont breathe with lungs the way we do, of course, but instead they use gills to draw water across thousands of tiny capillaries which extract oxygen and send it directly to the bloodstream. On the surface of the water in your tank, a certain amount of oxygen exchange takes place naturally. Dissolved gases in the water (like the carbon dioxide that fish breathe out) are released into the air, where they are exchanged for oxygen. The bigger the surface area of the tank, the more oxygen can be exchanged. But most tanks arent large enough to provide an adequate amount of oxygen for the fish to survive, so you must aerate the tank to make sure theres enough oxygen in the water for the fish to breathe. This can be accomplished in a couple of ways.
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First, when you use a power filter, the water is exposed to the air before its pumped back into the tank, which aerates it, usually providing an ample supply of oxygen for the tank. If it appears the power filter isnt providing enough oxygen for your fish (for example the fish are turning dull colors and swimming on their sides), you can connect an air pump to a bubbler in the tank like an airstone or one of those little divers.
SUBSTRATE
Substrate is a fancy name for the sand or gravel material that goes in the bottom of your tank. There are a wide variety of types and sizes of substrate, so listen up! Substrate serves a number of functions in your tank, from letting the fish know which end is up (or down, as the case may be!), to giving the tank a more natural look, to serving as a colonizing medium for the beneficial bacteria in your filtering system to providing an environment for critters such as crabs and crustaceans if you have them in your tank. It also provides a growing medium for live plants.
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Common Aquarium Gravel

This is the most common type of substrate used. Available from any pet shop or aquarium shop, this substrate comes in both fine and coarse varieties. Its made up of quartz, and wont change the condition of the water at all. You can use this in virtually any aquarium, but you must make sure you vacuum it regularly to remove particles of uneaten food. (Housework is just never done, is it?)
Sand
Perhaps surprisingly, its not a good idea to use sand off the beach, or sea sand in general, primarily because it contains contaminants and microscopic living organisms which can die off and pollute the water in your tank. Much better choices are sandblasting sand or play sand. Sandblasting sand is coarser than play sand, but either one is suitable. Sand compacts more than common aquarium gravel, making it more difficult for food particles to penetrate, and helping to keep the tank cleaner, but you may have to adjust the filter intake tube to keep the smaller sand particles from clogging the filter. You can use sand in any aquarium.
Aragonite
This is simply calcium carbonate mineral. It slowly releases calcium carbonate into the water, which buffers and pushes the pH in the water up to around 8.2. Because of its effect on the water in the tank, aragonite should only be used in saltwater tanks.
Crushed Corals
Substrate of crushed corals was very popular before Aragonite came along. It acts much the same way as Aragonite, in that it raises the pH in the water to around 7.6. Sometimes youll find the corals mixed with Aragonite, or dolomite or calcite, which have a similar effect as
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Aragonite. Again, because of the pH effect of this material, saltwater tanks only, please.
Vermiculate
Vermiculate isnt a term for graduating from fishy school its actually a mineral mixture of aluminum, iron and magnesium. It slowly releases potassium and magnesium into the tank over a long period of time, and can absorb phosphates and even slowly convert ammonia into nitrate. Because it has a tendency to compact over time, you should mix it with common aquarium gravel or laterite to keep it from clumping. This is a great substrate to use as a lower layer in aquariums with live plants.
Laterite
Laterite is simply weathered clay, more commonly known as cat litter. Laterite doesnt release any minerals or nutrients, but it can store them for plant use through their root system. A good substrate to use as a lower layer for planted aquariums, but be careful the commercial grade of laterite designed for aquariums has been sterilized common, everyday cat litter often contains perfumes and clumping compounds, which can play havoc with your tank water.
How deep should you layer the substrate?

That depends on what kind of tank you have. Here are some general guidelines: For Fish Only Aquariums use Common Aquarium Gravel and Sand, and layer it about 2 2.5 inches deep For Saltwater or Reef Aquariums use Aragonite and Crush Corals and layer it about 2 2.5 inches deep For Planted Aquariums (live plants, or combination of live and plastic) use two layers: 1) Vermiculate or Laterite as the bottom layer, generally 1 2 inches in depth, followed by 2) Common Aquarium Gravel or Sand, at another 2 inches in depth.
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For best effect, the surface of whatever substrate youre using shouldnt be completely smooth and flat. Make it an interesting topography, with the height at the back of the tank slightly more than at the front, so you get the effect of looking uphill from the front of the tank to the back.
What not to use as substrate

Sea sand (gathered off the beach) can contain contaminants and microscopic organisms. Painted or dyed gravel (yes, they make it) paint can flake off and dye can be released slowly into the water. Glass pebbles (they can diffuse light) - the fish and plants dont like that!
DECORATIONS
There are an infinite variety of decorations to choose from youre only limited by your own imagination. You can design a themed tank, where all of the items match a period in history or a specific design element, e.g. a pirate scene, a Hawaiian beach or an underwater city. Or you can arrange it so your tank simply looks like the bottom of the ocean, or a coral reef, or a riverbed that just happened to appear in your tank.
Start with a background

Backgrounds serve two functions: they provide a backdrop for the entire dcor of the tank adding depth and interest to your design; and they hide the wires, cords, filters and various pieces of equipment that frequently hang off the back of the tank. They come in virtually any size and style from Japanese gardens to river rock to shipwrecks to underground cities and everything in between. Usually made of waterproof plastic, many styles come with a design on
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each side, so if you get tired of one, you simply turn it around and switch it. Buy a size larger than your tank by at least 2 inches, and trim to fit.
Add a centerpiece
By centerpiece I dont necessarily mean something you have to locate right in the middle of the tank. I mean some sort of decorative piece that will be the main focus of your design: a castle, or a pagoda or a wrecked ship, or a series of stacked rocks that form a cave or hiding places for your fish.
Add plants
Ill go into live plants in much greater detail in the next section, but here are a few basic pointers. Plants look most natural when planted in irregularly-numbered groups (i.e. groups of 3, 5 or 7 plants in a single grouping.) Taller plants to the sides and rear of the tank typically look more balanced, while you can use the smaller, wider versions in the front and middle as accent pieces.
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Plastic plants come in as many styles, sizes and colors as real plants, short to tall, thin and spiny to bushy and wide. Choose an assortment that mix textures, colors and sizes for more visual interest.
LIVE PLANTS
There is almost no end to the choices you have for live plants to use in your aquarium. The trick is keeping them that way. Live, I mean. As long as you remember a few basic tips, you shouldnt have any problem creating an aquascape environment that will allow your live plants to thrive.
Plant essentials
Aquarium plants need three essential components to flourish: adequate lighting, a good substrate and a CO2 (Carbon Dioxide) level of between 10 and 20 ppm (parts per million.)
Lighting
All plants, whether aquarium or otherwise, need light to complete the photosynthesis process. When we talked about the kind of lighting you need for your tank, I recommended a full-spectrum fluorescent bulb, and this was one of the reasons why. Depending on what kind of plants you choose for your tank, how deep the tank is, and how many plants you cram into the tank, youll need between 2 3 watts of light per gallon. The more crowded the tank, the more light youll need to be able to reach all the plants in the tank. The fewer the plants, the less light youll need. The light needs to be evenly distributed throughout the tank, and should be left on for at least 12 hours per day to give the plants an adequate source of energy.
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Substrate
The substrate is like potting soil to your houseplants. It gives the root system of the plant space to spread out, and is a source of nutrients (food) that the plant needs to grow. As we talked about in the substrate section Vermiculate and Laterite are both excellent substrates to use as a bottom layer. They can provide the necessary nutrients for plant growth.
CO2
The third crucial factor for plant survival is CO2 (Carbon Dioxide). CO2 should be kept to a level of 10 to 20 parts per million. You can use your water test kit to determine what the level of CO2 is in your tank. Too low a level of CO2 will inhibit plant growth. Too high a level (over 30 ppm) can cause breathing problems for your fish. (If that happens, simply increase the output of your air pump or other aerating device to increase the oxygen level in your tank.) There are several sources of CO2 within your tank the most common is the respiration of your fish. As the fish use the oxygen in the water, they exhale CO2. The bacterial decay of dead plant material and driftwood decorations, if you use them, also contributes to the CO2 levels. But the biggest source of CO2 in your tank is a fully-cycled biological filter. Remember we talked in the filtration section about types of filters? The bio filter is the way to go.
Selecting Your Plants

Its been estimated that there are some 3,500 species of aquatic plants, but people are generally in favor of using something that will actually grow (sort of like houseplants there are a huge variety of plants that will grow in captivity, but a very limited number of them are actually cultivated.)
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These are the most popular varieties for use in aquariums: Can tolerate a wide range of water temperatures:
Cabomba
Cabomba (a.k.a. Fanwort, water-shield and Washington plant) (a.k.a. Anacharis, ditch-moss, Canadian Egeria pond weed) Myriophyllum (water milfoil, foxtail) Vallinsneria (eel grass, tape grass, corkscrew) Sagittaria (arrowhead)
These do well in warm water (75 to 80) and bright lights:

Vallinsneria
Ceratopterus (water sprite, Indian fern) Ludwigia Hygrophila (Nomaphila) Vallinsneria (eel grass, tape grass, corkscrew) Sagittaria (arrowhead) Microsorium (Java fern)
Warm water low light tolerant:
Cryptcoryne (crypts)
Cryptcoryne
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Good centerpiece plants:
Echinodorus (swordplants, Amazons) Aponogeton (Madagascar lace plant)
Echinodorus
Basic Plant Care

When choosing your plants, pick healthy-looking plants (usually young plants with no bruising, damaged areas or dead leaves) Pay attention to proper planting techniques (this means plant at an appropriate depth and cover root system with substrate) Make sure plants have enough light (12 hours per day minimum) Maintain good water quality. (For fish and plants!) Keep an eye on CO2 levels! Pinch back old growth to encourage new. Remove old stems and dead leaves.)
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A WORD ABOUT SAFETY

I know I shouldnt have to tell you these next few items, but Im going to anyway. Common sense isnt necessarily so common, and there might be a few people on the planet that dont know that water and electricity dont mix. So, as a good rule of thumb: 1. Use only devices that are made specifically for aquarium use. 2. Make sure whatever electrical device you use (like a pump or heater) is UL listed. That means it has a tag on it that says Underwriters Laboratory. 3. Ideally, the electrical outlets you use will be GFIC-equipped. That means it will have a reset button that will be tripped each time the electricity wigs out. If your outlets arent equipped this way, use a power strip that has a built in circuit breaker. (Similar to what you use on your computer.) 4. Use a drip loop on all power cords. This simply means that you need to arrange the power cords so they hang down well below the outlet before running back up again to be plugged in. Any water that accidentally drips down the cord will not run uphill, and come in contact with the receptacle. 5. And to avoid the possibility of plugs or receptacles or power strips getting wet, position the aquarium stand to one side of all the electrical cords and connections. Yeah, its nice to hide all those cords behind the tank, but you can always use a plant or two instead. 6. Unplug all cords any time you do anything around the tank, such as changing the water or lights or similar actions. 7. If the air pump, power filter, lights or any other piece of equipment falls into the tank DONT REACH FOR IT! Unplug it FIRST, then retrieve it! 8. Inspect your equipment regularly. If it looks like its wearing out, replace it.
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SETTING UP YOUR TANK

Youre almost there! Now lets move on to setting up your tank and putting all the components together.
A little prep work

There are some things you need to do before you can begin assembling all this neat stuff youve brought home from the pet store.
For a freshwater tank

Plan on purchasing your tank, equipment and decorations all on the same day. Then, a few days later, youll need to pick up the live plant material if youre going to use it. Then, a couple of days after that go get the fish. I realize thats probably not what you wanted to hear, but its really the best way to set up your tank. It allows the tank to stabilize between each step making it more hospitable for the fish, and less likely that theyll die the minute you add them to the tank! 1. Before you put anything in the tank, you need to rinse out the tank itself. Take it outside where you have a hose (or if thats not feasible, put it in your bathtub or shower and use the shower head) basically anywhere the excess water can run off. Take your scrubby and scrub off all sides (inside and out) of the tank. Rinse well. Repeat. Rinse well. Repeat. Do not use soap of any kind, since it might contain toxins that will be sure to kill your fish. Just rinse repeatedly with cool water, scrubbing each time. This will remove any residual possibly toxic material left on the tank in manufacturing or shipping. 2. Rinse off all plant material, rocks, shells, decorations, and anything else that will be placed in the tank with cool, clean water. 3. If youre using driftwood or other wood decorations, soak them in water overnight so they wont float away.
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ASSEMBLING THE TANK COMPONENTS

1. Assemble the parts of your under-gravel filter, and place in the bottom of the tank. (Thats assuming youre using an under-gravel filter. If youre using another type of filter, assemble per manufacturers instruction and place in an appropriate location in the tank.) 2. If youre using large rocks as decoration, they need to sit firmly on the bottom of the tank. Place them directly on top of the undergravel filter, then pour your substrate on top of the filter plates. For the best effect, slope the gravel so that its higher toward the back of the tank and lower toward the front. 3. Arrange your other decorations as desired. Make sure that none of the decorations touches or leans against the walls of the tank. 4. Install the aeration and heating systems. 5. Add plastic plants, if youre using them. (Dont add live plants yet!) 6. Add background if youre using it. 7. Fill the tank with water, using a hose or fill jar from tap. Fill to within 1 of top of tank. 8. Turn on all equipment to make sure its working properly. 9. Wait 2 to 3 days until tank stabilizes before you add anything else. When I say stabilize, I simply mean youre giving the tank a chance to settle down, the dust to settle so to speak, youre checking to make sure all the equipment is functioning properly, etc.
After the tank stabilizes

Now youre ready to add the live plants if youre going to use them. Depending on the type of plants you chose, some were sold in clusters or bunches. Separate the bunches so you can plant them individually for a more realistic, natural look. Before you plant them, wash them under cool, clean water, and remove any dead or bruised leaves and roots.
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Dont worry if your tank water appears a little murky right after you get done landscaping thats to be expected, and your filtration system should clear it up in no time. Wait 2 more days, and then go get the fish.
Introducing the fish

No, not to each other! To the tank! Once the tank is arranged exactly the way you want it and youve given it a chance to stabilize, go purchase the fish. Introduce a few fish at a time to the tank if you go buy several varieties and dump them all in at once youll not only cause chaos, youll severely stress out your new inhabitants, and cause fistfights at dinner time, so do it slowly and carefully. The general rule of thumb about how many fish you can put in a tank is have 1 of fish for every 1-1/2 to 2 gallons of water in the bowl. This means a fish that is 1 in length for every 1-1/2 to 2 gallons. Youll probably bring the fish home in a plastic bag. Float the unopened bag in the waters surface for about an hour. This will allow the temperature in the bag to adjust to the tank temp. Then, open the bag and gently remove the fish from the bag with your net. Try not to pour the water from the plastic bag into your tank it might contain toxins or contaminants from the pet store. Once all the fish are out of the bag, pour the water in the bag down the drain. Add different varieties of fish a few at a time, and allow time between species to allow each type of fish to become comfortable in their new home.
Specific Types of Tanks FISHBOWLS OR DESKTOP AQUARIUMS

Contrary to popular opinion, smaller tanks are not easier to care for. Fishbowls and desktop aquariums are supposed to be fun tanks, cute tanks with cute little fishies swimming around for your enjoyment. The
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reality of the smaller tanks is that they require more maintenance than the larger tanks, because they get dirtier faster because the contaminants that are in every fish tank become more concentrated in the smaller tanks because they cant be dispersed in a larger volume of water. Set up for fishbowls or desktop aquariums is essentially the same as for larger tanks: assemble filter and light fixtures (if youre using lights) per manufacturer directions; rinse gravel and add to tank; fill threequarters full with water. Add chlorine neutralizer (see the section on chemicals) and decorations. Wait at least 24 hours before adding fish or live plants. The type of filter you get for your fishbowl or desktop aquarium will be critical in reducing the amount of maintenance you need to perform. There are box filters and sponge filters and under-gravel filters available that are small enough for these types of tanks. I would recommend the under-gravel type, since the box and sponge filters are larger and bulkier, and space in your smaller tank is already an issue. Temperature control is generally problematic with smaller tanks also. A few of the slightly larger tanks can accommodate a submersible aquarium heater, but many times the only source of heat will be the light bulb in your light, which isnt thermostatically controlled, so the temperature in the fishbowl can fluctuate greatly. The point here is to avoid adding fish that are really sensitive to temperature changes. In a typical fish bowl or desktop aquarium you should change at least half of the water either every day, or every other day, to remove waste products before they reach toxic levels. Yes, thats a lot of water changes (much more often that I would recommend for a larger tank) but its actually less stressful to the fish than letting the water get dirty. With a smaller tank, many people use the trick of having a second bowl handy, and simply transfer the fish from the dirty bowl to the clean bowl frequently then clean the dirty bowl, and repeat the transfer at a later date. Also remember to feed your fish sparingly. This means feed the fish once a day, and only what they can consume in less than one minute. More than that is simply a waste, and will drift to the bottom of the tank, where it will begin to decay and dirty the tank that much quicker.
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How many fish can you have in a fishbowl or desktop aquarium? The general rule of thumb is have 1 of fish for every 1-1/2 to 2 gallons of water in the bowl. This means a fish that is 1 in length for every 1-1/2 to 2 gallons. Thats not very many fish for a small tank, is it? And thats probably one of the most frustrating things about dealing with the smaller tanks the limited capacity for the number of fish. This is information that you wont get from most retailers. Remember, theyre in business to sell you stuff fishbowls, aquariums, the fish, the food, the decorations especially around the holidays. Thats a big part of what keeps them in business! Now that youve seen how much work they really are, do you really want one of those cute little tanks? Remember that time you visited your doctors office, or dentists office, or someone that had a cool little tank with a cool little goldfish in it, and then the next time you visited that office and that cool little goldfish was gone? Now you know why! A lot of unsuspecting people have been turned off of this hobby, because the cute little tank that was so hard to take care of was their introduction to this pastime. This is a great hobby that can provide a lifetime of enjoyment, but you need to recognize that its a lot of work. Im not trying to scare you; I just want you to make an informed decision. Ok, so youve decided youre willing to do the work necessary to have one of those cool little tanks - what kinds of fish do well in fishbowls and desktop aquariums? This list is by no means all-inclusive, but these fish generally are the best suited for smaller tanks:
Danios (zebras, leopard, pearl or gold)
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Barbs (tigers, gold or rosy)
Tetras (black, serape, red minor, neon or bloodfin)
Rasbora (scissortail or brilliant)
White Cloud Mountain fish
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Guppies (common)
Catfish (green or albino)
Goldfish (while theyre still small)
Amphibians (African frogs or newts) Tropical Fish Secrets 35
FRESHWATER TANKS
Ive already covered the basics of setting up your larger freshwater tank in terms of assembling the tank components, stabilizing the tank and adding the fish. Now lets talk about some of the specifics of water quality considerations for freshwater tanks.
Water Quality
Ammonia, nitrites and nitrates in the water are your first concerns about water quality in freshwater tanks.
Ammonia
Fish pee in their tanks. (Well, what did you expect them to do? Take a walk outside?) And when they pee, one of the by-products is ammonia. In a new aquarium, before it has had a chance to cycle, ammonia levels can skyrocket, but then usually stabilizes once the biological filter is established. If the ammonia level goes too high in an established tank, there are two ways of removing it: add special chips to remove the ammonia to the filter, or a partial water change. Adding chips is a better method for long-term ammonia maintenance when the ammonia level is not extremely high. A partial water change is a more immediate solution, but a less longlasting method, because it can be used to quickly lower the ammonia level when it is dangerously high. But its also a "band-aid"; because the original problem hasnt been addressed: and that is the biological filter youre using isnt large enough to support the bio-load of your tank.
Nitrites
Nitrites are the next step in the nitrogen cycle after ammonia, the raw product. Nitrites can also shoot up very rapidly in a new aquarium. Nitrites should be monitored weekly with a nitrite test kit. Tropical Fish Secrets
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If the nitrite level is above one part per million, then it is too high, and a partial water change should be performed. The level of nitrites varies inversely to the level of nitrates, that is, when nitrites go down, nitrates go up.
Nitrates
Nitrates are not as harmful to fish as nitrites; nitrate levels must be extremely high before the fish become stressed. The main problem with nitrates is that they stimulate algae growth. This means that nitrates are more of a problem in established tanks than in new tanks. The method for dealing with nitrates is the same as for dealing with nitrites and ammonia, do a partial water change.
Water Chemistry
Ok, heres where you have to go back to school for a little while. Remember all those chemistry lessons you hated? Well, theyre back! No, not really but there are just a few things we need to go over.
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Hardness (GH and KH) Water hardness is measured in two ways: 1. 2. Carbonate Hardness (KH) General Hardness (GH).
Carbonate Hardness (also known as buffering capacity or alkalinity) is a measure of water's ability to absorb an acid or base without a change in pH. If your Carbonate Hardness is too low, the aquarium will be vulnerable to rapid changes in pH, which stress the fish. If your Carbonate Hardness is too high, then it will be very difficult to change the pH of the aquarium. The problem with this is that hard water (referring to GH) has a very high Carbonate Hardness. This makes it difficult to adjust the pH because when an acid or base is added, it will seem like nothing is happening, until the buffer is depleted, and then the pH will change very quickly. General Hardness is what people mean when they say that their water is "hard" or "soft". Areas of the country with limestone deposits usually have hard water, while areas with more granite tend to have softer water. Try not to tamper with these attributes of water if youre not experienced in the hobby, but if you do want to adjust the General Hardness of your water, then try adding coral or seashells to the tank, either crushed in the filter or as decorations, or you can use marble chips in the filter to increase the GH.
pH pH is a measure of whether water is acidic or basic. pH increases exponentially, which means that a pH of 8.0 is ten times more basic than a pH of 7.0, and one hundred times more basic that water with a pH of 6.0, and so on. Neutral pH is 7.0. The most important things about pH is keeping it stable, and making sure that the pH level you have in your tank is appropriate for the kind of fish
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you have. The pH in your tank should not change more than 0.3 units per day.
Chlorine and Chloramine Chlorine and chloramine are two chemicals added to tap water by local communities to kill bacteria and make water safe for human consumption. Thats the good news. The bad news is that theyre both deadly to fish killing them in much the same way that chlorine gas kills humans, essentially causing them to suffocate. There are water additives that you can buy at your local fish store, which will remove both chlorine and chloramine from tap water, as well as heavy metals. These additives are relatively inexpensive and you absolutely must have them on hand, unless you live in an area of the country that has pure, clear, completely unpolluted water. Yeah, I didnt think so. Phosphorous and Nitrates
Phosphorus can help control algae in your tank, but it is also contained in some water pre-treatment products, and also in some fertilizers. You should always check these products to make sure they contain no phosphorous, since too much phosphorus can be toxic to your fish. Nitrates are also contributors to the growth of algae, and they are harder to keep out of the aquarium. Nitrates are the byproduct of the reaction caused by bacteria on nitrites. While nitrates are only harmful to fish in very high amounts, they can cause uncontrolled algae growth, especially in the brightly lit conditions of a planted aquarium. Nitrates can be removed from the aquarium through regular water changes.
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SALTWATER TANKS
Now heres where it gets complicated! Saltwater tanks are much more complex than freshwater you need to prepare the sea salt mixture, test salinity, water temp is much more of an issue its a challenge, but if youre up for it, the rewards are tremendous in terms of beauty and the outstanding quality of the fish you can raise. The biggest downside you need to recognize is that when youre setting up a new saltwater tank it must cycle, averaging six weeks. You won't be able to introduce any fish to the tank until this happens! This is probably the most disappointing fact about these tanks. (See the section a little farther back in the book on exactly what cycling consists of.) However, there are some things you can do during this interim period so that you have something a little better to look at than an empty tank.
Reef Tanks
These are some of the most beautiful setups, primarily housing live reef and corals. Theyre also the most difficult to cultivate, because they require extra equipment and more attention than a fish only tank. Not that a novice cant set one up and maintain it, but its a LOT of extra
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effort. My recommendation would be to begin with a fish-only tank. You can always upgrade later on down the road.
A reef tank seeks to recreate a tiny portion of a coral reef such as you might find anywhere in the ocean. While there are many different approaches to setting up and maintaining a reef tank, there are some components that most experts agree are necessary for successful cultivation of reefs. The first decision youll need to make is to determine what types of animals youll be keeping in the reef: from soft corals to stony corals to algae, your choices will have a direct effect on the different types of equipment youll need. For the most part, corals can be divided into three categories: 1. Stony hard exterior skeletons 2. Soft no calcium-based skeleton 3. SPS Short or Small Polyped Stony
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Lets talk for a moment about invertebrates

What, exactly, is an invertebrate? Animals on the earth without backbones are called vertebrate-less animals or invertebrates. For example, insects are invertebrates, but we dont really care about that, because this book is about tropical fish! A large number of invertebrates other than insects live in the water, and they are called aquatic or marine invertebrates. Although some of them live in the fresh water, the vast majority of aquatic invertebrates live in the oceans. Squids, octopuses, lobsters, or shrimps, crabs, shellfishes, sea urchins and starfishes are among well-known marine invertebrates, while creatures with plant-like appearances such as feather stars, corals, and sea anemones are also marine invertebrates. In addition, zooplankton, rotifers or wheel animals, lugworms, sea squirts, sea cucumbers and sea hares are all categorized as marine invertebrates.
You may add invertebrates to your saltwater tank with some spectacular effects, as seen by this shot of sea anemones. Invertebrates also include snails, which come in a wide variety of species and sizes. Most tank owners use snails to help control algae, since the
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most common species, Astraea, Turbo and Trochus all love to dine on algae, and are among the many varieties of snails found world-wide. Did you know there are more than 40,000 recognized species of snails world-wide? Just think of all that escargot! (Im kidding!) The shell of a snail is its primary means of protection, although there are a few predatory shelled snails that are murderous bad boys, that either bore holes into their prey and rasp out their flesh (sounds like a bad Hollywood movie, doesnt it?) or kill their prey with venom, usually injected by means of a harpoon and eat their prey whole. Some species can actually be lethal to humans as well, but theyre not sold in aquarium supply stores usually the only way youd come in contact with them is by removing coral from the ocean and bringing it home. But since that activity is illegal, you probably wouldnt do that, would you? Snails can be astoundingly beautiful: take a look at these two
Bumblebee Snail
Tiger Cowrie Snail
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The Basic Requirements of Reef Tanks

For a successful reef tank there are five main factors that you must keep in mind, and keep under control: Temperature Water Movement Light Nutrient limitation Water chemistry
Temperature must be maintained below 80F, and ideally should remain between 72F and 78F. This can be accomplished using standard aquarium heaters, but temperature control with corals and invertebrates is even more critical than with fish. Because youll be dealing with corals and algaes, organisms who cant move around the tank on their own to find oxygen, water movement is extremely critical in a reef tank. For optimal results, water should flow in small eddies and swirls, which means youll need multiple water returns and power heads in the tank, so they interact with each other and produce a natural give and take of water flow. Lighting is another important component of a reef tank. Just as plants convert sunlight to produce chlorophyll, corals and other marine animals convert light energy into food. Depending on the variety of coral and invertebrates in your tank, the proper intensity and spectrum of light is needed. Because the choices of reef wildlife are so extensive, it would be impossible to list all the requirements for each species; check with your local aquarium shop for specifics required by each species. Nutrient limitation sounds contradictory why would you want to limit nutrients if you want your tank to thrive? The two nutrients you primarily need to control are nitrate and phosphate, which, if left unchecked, can turn your tank into an algae-coated, slimy mess. The best way to control these two nutrients is by use of protein skimming and activated carbon filters. Protein skimmers, also know as Foam Fractionators, consist of a column through which a very fine mixture of air and water is pumped. A Protein skimmer collects proteins and other nitrogen-containing organic material Tropical Fish Secrets 44
before they are metabolized into ammonia and nitrate. Protein skimmers come in two basic designs: counter-current airstone driven and Venturi driven. A Venturi skimmer uses a strong water pump combined with a small air inlet that creates a suction that forms a fine mixture of air and water in the skimmer. Counter-current airstone models have an airstone at the bottom of the tube, and the water flows from the top of the tube to the bottom. There are also a wide variety of other types of equipment and devices you can buy to aid in filtration and reduction of nutrients in your tank everything from ozone generators, automatic water change and top-off systems, alternating surge controllers, CO2 injectors, molecular absorption resins to trickle filters. While these bells and whistles are nice for the gotta-have-the-latest-gadget crowd, theyre not necessary for the cultivation of a successful tank. My recommendation is to hold off before you invest hundreds if not thousands of dollars in these devices until you know if 1) youll need them, and 2) youre more familiar with the requirements and needs of your tank. The final factor youll need to be concerned with is the actual water chemistry. Youll need to be able to maintain proper levels of pH, alkalinity and calcium in the tank in order for your invertebrates to thrive. Again, because there are so many species of corals, algaes and invertebrates, its impossible to list all the appropriate levels in this forum. Check with your local aquarium shop for specifics of the species you have in your tank.
The Basic Requirements of Fish-Only Tanks

This term is misleading, because it makes the tank sound like an empty apartment, but theyre really not like that. Ceramic decorations and live rock can be used in place of a live reef with corals and invertebrates, which give it a similar appearance, without the delicate nature of maintaining the perfect environment for the coral. In a fish-only tank, the focus is primarily on the fish species, not the invertebrates of the reef.
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Lights and Filters

Lights in saltwater tanks are the same as with freshwater, but there are several types of filters. There are canister, under-gravel (the same as freshwater), and a unique filter to marine tanks called wet/dry. Wet/dry filters are the common choice and they're great for first time enthusiasts. They sit outside the tank so theyre are easier to access and clean. If you decide on one of these, you might get a rough idea of where youre going to place it in the tank, so you know how much extra hose you might need.
Water Circulation
Unlike aerators that are used in freshwater tanks, saltwater tanks are aerated by water turbulence, which is accomplished by a wave-like motion provided by your filter via the water import and export hoses attached to it.
Other Supplies
Hydrometer Thermometer Heater Algae scrubber Salt Chemicals The thermometer and heater are the same you would use in a freshwater tank. The hydrometer is unique to a saltwater tank; it measures the specific gravity in the water: translation, it tells you if you have enough salt in the water. They are easy to read and clearly marked. For chemicals, you will need a pH kit, marine test kit, salt and marine buffers. These various kits measure the levels of ammonia and nitrates in the tank. This is the hardest part, keeping these levels within normal ranges. You must check the levels daily and they are also easy to read, but the slightest fluctuations can wreak havoc.
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Fish-only tanks should have a pH level of between 7.6 and 8.4. The degree to which a solution maintains its pH when acid is added is called the alkalinity of the solution. A number of chemicals such as bicarbonate, calcium, carbonate, borate and hydroxide act as natural buffers that slow the drop in pH. When the pH in a tank starts to drop, its an indication that the buffers are getting worn out. Some quick fix methods to correcting a drop in pH are adding bicarbonate of soda (yes, baking soda), plus there are any number of commercial products available. The amount you add will be determined by the size of your tank and the level of pH in the tank at the time you test it with your water testing kit. But the most generally accepted method of stabilizing pH is by doing partial water changes periodically; not only does this refresh the natural buffers, but it restores trace minerals in the tank water.
Setting Up and Testing Your Equipment

Your preparation in this area (at least the basics) wont be too much different than a freshwater tank: Clean the tank with cool, clean water and a scrubby Apply a background if desired Place tank in an appropriate place Install filtration equipment, heater, lights and any other equipment Fill tank with fresh tap water (Use lukewarm) Putting It All Together Mix the salt with the water according to the instructions on the bag, and then use your hydrometer to make sure you've added enough. Theres a chart on the bag that will give you guidance. Fill the tank near the top and then start running your filter. Youll notice a big drop in the water level once you turn it on; especially with a wet/dry filter (it uses more water internally than freshwater filters. Add more water to bring it up to the appropriate level. Once its filled, check your pH levels, adjust accordingly, check temperature and adjust heater accordingly, and add the marine buffer. Temperatures will vary depending upon the fish youll be getting, but 76 is a good place to start. Anything over 80 will be too warm for any species. Be advised that when
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you first start the tank, the sand will get stirred up dont worry, thats normal itll begin to settle down in a day or so. Cycling This next part is very good for your self-control and patience! From this point on - it's hurry up and wait! With freshwater tanks, you can begin introducing fish almost immediately but saltwater tanks have to cycle. Cycling is when a new tank goes through a period of growing beneficial bacteria that is absolutely necessary to saltwater fish. If you dont do this youll start losing them right away. It takes a good six weeks for a tank to cycle. There are some things you can do to speed it up slightly: one is to buy another chemical called a biological supplement. These add some of the needed bacteria.
Live Rock (not Jazz) You can also add live rock, if available. Live rock is another contradictory term, because what it consists of is the skeletons of long-dead corals. So the rock itself really isnt alive, but it does contain living organisms, both inside and out, such as algae, bacteria and tiny invertebrates which can all contribute to the overall quality of the tank water. Unlike coral, live rock is not temperamental; it doesn't need the intense lighting or chemical balance that coral requires. It's also a great source for biological filtration. The rock contains important enzymes and bacteria as well, which aid in the breakdown of fish waste. Using live rock and a biological supplement together, you can shave a couple of weeks off the average cycling. It may still be worth your while to wait it out, just to be on the safe side. The last thing you want at this point is the risk of losing these fish, since they typically cost much more than freshwater fish. You can also add damsels. These are hearty marine fish that are used to help cycle a tank. Their waste assists in that bacteria growth, and all dealers have them. They are typically bright neon blue with yellow fins or jet black with a couple of bright white spots. They're small but, very pretty, and many
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people leave them in the tank even after cycling. (As long as you dont add really aggressive fish, which consider damsels a great snack!)
Damsels
An important point to keep in mind: keep checking your chemical levels during this entire period!
After Cycling Once this is all over, you'll do a partial water change, which will be the first of many. After the growth of the needed bacteria, nitrates build up in the water. This is a major contributor to the death of fish, and the only way to lower this level is by changing a third of the water periodically. Just remember to add more salt and a marine buffer, if necessary. Recheck all of your pH and nitrate levels as well as the temperature. You might also want to collect a sample of your water into a small glass container to bring to the pet shop. They can conduct a more thorough test to see that your tank is ready for new residents, but bear in mind most pet shops charge a small fee for this test.
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Finally, youre ready to add fish! How many can you add? Use this for a rule of thumb: one fish per every five gallons of water. Also, keep in mind there are some breeds, as with freshwater fish, that just don't get along. See more on that in the next section.
Add your fish gradually, a few at a time using the same method outlined in the freshwater fish section. If youve designed hidey holes in your saltwater aquascape, you can add fish a little faster than otherwise, since theyll have places to hide from each other while getting acclimated. Check your temperature and salinity levels at least every other day.
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TANK CLEANING AND MAINTENANCE

It doesnt matter what kind of filtration system you use in your tank, it wont be enough to keep your tank entirely clean. And it also doesnt matter if you have a freshwater or a saltwater tank; its going to get dirty, and require both cleaning and maintenance.
Tank cleaning
Your aquarium will need periodic cleaning. How often will depend on the size of your tank, the filtration system and the number of fish in the tank, your aquarium.
Daily tasks
Check all electrical fixtures pump, heater, air filter, etc. to make sure theyre working properly. Check the fish: Are any dead? If so, remove immediately. Are any showing a dramatic change in color; e.g. from bright to dull? You could have an oxygen deficiency. Are any trying to swim on their side? Again, may be due to poor oxygen quality Check the water Is it clear or cloudy? Does it smell? If it doesnt look or smell right, test water with your testing kit to determine if ammonia, nitrate and nitrate levels are appropriate.
Weekly tasks
Clean tank bottom - Remove any dead material, uneaten food, dead algae, etc. Use a siphon hose or a vacuum to remove the excess material.
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Clean filters remove filter medium from mechanical filter and rinse according to manufacturer directions. Clean sides of tank take your scrubby brush and remove any algae from sides of tank. Note: water will be murky for a while until your filtration system catches up this is normal. Dont worry about it. Perform small water changes replace at least 30 percent of the water in the tank with new, fresh water. (This doesnt have to be an exact measurement) use a standard measuring device (a bucket, cup or glass jar) to remove approximately a third of the water in the tank, and replace the same amount with fresh water, or a fresh mixture of Saltwater solution.
Monthly tasks
If youre using a filter with activated carbon or charcoal, replace filter medium Remove decorations such as pirate ships or plastic plants, rinse under clean, cool water and replace. Do not use soap!
Quarterly tasks
Remove any rocks used for decoration. Rinse algae off under cool, clean water and replace rocks in tank.
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HERE FISHY, FISHY, FISHY

How, exactly, do you choose the best fish for your tank? Do you go on color? Price? How well they get along with each other? Well, all of these factors go into your choices there are almost as many varieties of fish available for your tank as there are in the sea its impossible to list every variety and species in a book this size but I will give you some recommendations and some of the most popular and successful fish that people include in their tanks. First, lets talk about what to look for in a fish, whether you have a freshwater tank or saltwater.
TEMPERAMENT
The first thing you need to consider when choosing a fish is the temperament. There are three basic temperament categories: Social varieties these are fish that generally get along well with everyone. They include Danios, Tetras, Corydoras, Mollies, Guppies and Swordtails. Semi-social varieties These fish can be kept with fish of equal size without becoming overly aggressive, and typically include Barbs, Gouramis and Angelfish. Aggressive varieties These fish must be kept by themselves, or pairs, with another of their own kind. These guys include Jewelfish, Oscars and Male Bettas. Pet stores can generally tell you which category each fish belongs to.
SELECTING HEALTHY FISH

If you start hanging out at the pet shop or aquarium store on a regular basis, youll begin to get an idea of when your local shop gets a new shipment of fish. Tropical Fish Secrets 53
Before selecting any of these fish, ask the pet shop if the fish in stock have been quarantined for two or three weeks prior to being offered for sale. If the pet shop takes fish straight off the plane and puts them out for sale, the fish may well be stressed out and jet-lagged, much more vulnerable to disease or stress. The chances of these fish dying are much greater than a fish that has had a chance to settle in and relax, so take your time and choose carefully.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A FISH

The first thing youll look for are the visual clues that youre looking at a healthy fish. The color should be dense and well-defined if they have a pattern it should be clear and crisp with no blurring of adjacent colors. If a particular pattern is a part of the fishs appearance, it should conform to the accepted standard for that species. For example, the blue male betta seen in this photo is a clear case in point of what this species should look like.
The eyes should be clear, with no sign of clouding or disease. The fins should be whole and undamaged, and the fish should be free of bite marks, injuries or tears.
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The fish should be swimming strongly and steadily and not hanging back in a corner of the tank. What youre looking for is an overall picture of good health.
FEEDING YOUR FISH

Well, they have to eat, right? And since you dont want them to munch on each other, its best if you know the different types of feeders your fish are!
Do You Know What Type of Feeder You Have?

Betcha didnt know there are different types of feeders among fish, did you? Youve probably heard of bottom feeders, although when people talk about that, theyre usually talking about lawyers. But thats a subject for another book! From time to time you may experience buying a new fish that appears to have no interest in eating what youve put on the table. Whether youre dealing with a non-eating fish, crustacean, anemone, coral or other invertebrate, the first step in overcoming this problem is to know what feeding characteristics it has, and what feeding category it falls into. What and how does it eat in nature? Is it a carnivore, herbivore, omnivore, suspension or filter feeder? Whats the difference?
Carnivores
Carnivores eat a diet that consists mainly of other marine fishes, crustaceans and invertebrates. These animals are also known as predators and/or scavengers. Predators spend their life hunting or lying in wait for an unwary meal. (Sharks fall into this category.) When a meal is consumed or theyve had their fill, many species will not eat again for a day or two, or even longer. Scavengers are opportunistic feeders, generally eating the leftovers from other predators. Cardinals, Dottybacks, Eels, Frogs/Anglers, Grammas, Groupers, Hamlets, Hawks, Lions/Scorpions, Pipefishes, Porcupines, Puffers, Sea bass, Sharks, Snappers, Soldierfishes, Squirrels and Triggers are predators, and most are also scavengers.
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Even though some Hermit Crabs, True Crabs, Shrimp and Starfish species are herbivores, most are carnivorous or omnivorous, and all types should be considered scavengers. Some will eat or pick at invertebrates (which are stationary and attached at the base) and corals, coraline algae, and may even attack other fish or tank mates and inhabitants. Many Anemones are considered carnivorous, but some fall into the filter feeders category as well.
Herbivores
Herbivores eat a diet consisting mainly of marine plants and algaes. These animals spend their entire day cruising and grazing, picking here and there when a food source is found. Fish that fall into this category are Tangs, Sturgeons and some Blenny species. Some species of Sea Urchins, Hermit Crabs, True Crabs and Starfishes are herbivores, but most are considered omnivorous, as well as scavengers as mentioned above.
Hermit Crabs
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Omnivores
Omnivores eat a combination diet of corals, small crustaceans, invertebrates and some marine plant life. These are not predatory fish, but some species will sometimes pick at flesh also. Damsels, Clownfishes, Cow/Boxfishes, Anthias', Blennies, Gobies, Dottybacks, Filefishes, Goatfishes, Seahorses, Spade/Batfishes, Sweetlips, Wrasses/Hogfishes and Moorish Idols all fall into this category. Angels and Butterflyfishes are considered to be omnivores, but some species mainly feed on corals and/or certain types of sponges.
Clownfish
Suspension or Filter Feeders

Suspension or filter feeders are either stationary animals that derive their nutrition from filtering out nutrients and microscopic foods suspended in the ocean water, or sand-sifting animals that filter foods from their substrate environment. Animals like corals, tube worms, sponges and the like are suspension feeders, while sea cucumbers, some species of starfishes, marine worms and other similar invertebrates fall into the filter feeder category.
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Mandarinfish/Dragonets, some Blenny, Goby and other similar fish species are predatory sand sifters. They search for tiny crustaceans to feed on, and require a good healthy population of them in the aquarium substrate to survive.
Mandarin Fish Now that you know what type of feeder you have, you have a better understanding of what foods and feeding methods would most attract it. For example, you wouldnt necessarily offer a Mandarin Fish a piece of hot buttered popcorn, since it probably wouldnt be interested. On the other hand, it may be very interested in a tiny crustacean set on the bottom of the tank When feeding fish in a captive aquarium, you have to keep in mind that when you throw food into the tank and it is floating around; many fish will ignore it at first; thats not how meals are served in the briny ocean blue. Many species in a short period of time will figure out that it is a food source, but some will not. For herbivores and omnivores, most species in general adapt to tank-fed foods fairly well, but some Angels and Butterflies can be little stubborn, picky eaters. In nature their food is attached to reef life on the ocean floor, not free floating. For specific coral eaters, of course this is where theyll look for food, as well as other life that attaches to or lives on corals. As for predatory carnivores, their natural instinct is to hunt for living, moving prey.
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You want to feed the marine animal by mimicking, as closely as you can, the way they would eat at home. This not only pertains to what they eat, but how they eat in nature as well. By doing this it stimulates their feeding interest much more than trying to adapt them to an unnatural feeding method that is foreign to them. Since your aquarium probably has a variety of marine life in it with various feeding traits, and some inhabitants are pigs disguised as fish, you undoubtedly will need to use a variety of mixed foods and feeding methods to address all their nutritional requirements. Some fish are more top and middle tank dwellers, while others graze along the bottom. Use food combinations that ensure the food is getting to the bottom fish feeders, like sinking food pellets, or by making sure some of it is secured to the bottom. For feeding herbivores, for example, use some type of feeding or lettuce clip to secure leafy foods down so its not floating around the tank.
If you do not use a feeding or lettuce clip, place the leafy foods partially under a rock to keep it on the bottom, with the majority of the food sticking out waving in the current. When using lettuces and other vegetables, a good idea is to first freeze and then thaw them out before feeding. This breaks down the structure of the food making it easier for the fish to digest it, as well as making it easier for them to bit off pieces. But don't boil these foods, because that removes beneficial nutrients. Feeding broccoli and carrots can provide valuable Vitamin A, helpful in healing fish suffering from HLLE (Head and Lateral Line Erosion). For fish that are coral and invertebrate pickers, you can smear, stick or press food down into rocks, cracks or crevices in the tank. These fish are naturally looking for food in these areas. One good way to do this is to use chunks or a pasty type food mix. Plastic long handled tongs or some type of feeding tool works great for feeding fish that bite or sting, such as Eels, Lionfishes, Groupers, etc. At first a fish may be startled by the tongs and withdraw when you wave the food in front of it, but soon theyll get used to seeing the tongs and associates it with feeding time. For stationary food eating anemones and corals, these feeding tools allow you to bring the food directly to them as well, without having to stick your arm in the tank!
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For predatory animals, the feeding of live foods stimulates their natural hunting instincts.
If you are having difficulties with a particular tank inhabitant not eating shortly after you get it home, consult with the fish store where you got it. In reality, you should have done this before you purchased it. One of the things you should have done to actually see it eating in the store, and found out exactly what and how its been fed. A marine animal that was eating just fine in the store, but has decided not to eat now that youve brought it home sometimes needs a little time to adjust to its new home and neighbors. Once the stresses of moving have eased, it usually picks up its normal eating patterns in a few days. If it doesn't, and one type of food or method of feeding is not working, don't wait, try something else, and keep trying until you find something that does work.
CHOW TIME
Now lets take a look at some of the food choices you have for feeding your various critters. If youre just starting out, start with something basic before moving on to the more esoteric versions of fish food. Its kind of the equivalent of starting off with home cooking before moving up to a five-star gourmet restaurant.
How Much Should I Feed?

Overfeeding tank fish is the single biggest reason tanks become dirty so quickly. Heres a general rule of thumb ok, two rules of thumb (or would that be two rule of thumbs?): Feed your fish once a day Feed no more than they will eat in less than one minute. 60
I know that doesnt sound like much, but if theyre not scarfing up the food that quickly youre feeding too much.
Basic Food Tips

Although protein is the essential nutrient in any fishy diet, like all good things too much, too little, or the wrong type of protein can pose problems. The very best protein comes from - you guessed it - other fish. Look for fish meal, shrimp, and other seafood on the label. Like any food, the nutrients in fish food deteriorate over time. In fact they deteriorate pretty quickly, so it's best to only buy what you can use in a month or less.
Nutritional Composition
Depending on the fishs feeding habits (carnivore, omnivore, herbivore, or strainer feeder), the percentage of fat, fiber, and protein varies. Carnivore Fat Fiber Protein Moisture 3-6% 2-4% 45-70% 6-10% Omnivore 2-5% 3-8% 30-40% 6-10% Herbivore 1-3% 2-6% 30-40% 6-10% Strainer 2-4% 5-10% 15-30% 6-10%
Here are some of the most widely used varieties:
Flake, Tablet and Pelleted Foods

These are the most commonly used foods, and for good reason: Theyre widely available, they provide balanced nutrition and theyre relatively inexpensive. These foods come in many forms including specially formulated mixtures for certain fish or conditions. Tropical Fish Secrets
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Select a variety of flakes, and rotate for each feeding. This gives you a higher chance of supplying the proper nutrients, without making your fish bored to tears with getting served the same old thing day after day. Some manufacturers are now packaging several different kinds of flakes in a single can, and all you have to do is twist the top to get a different selection. It's a great way to offer your fish variety. Your local aquarium supply store should have these in stock. Ask them for suggestions about popular choices for your species of fish. Feed your fish a varied flake selection together with a variety of live foods, and you can't go wrong. Your fish will not only be healthier, but theyll be happier, too.
Frozen Foods
There are a wide variety of frozen foods available for freshwater fish, including krill, plankton, squid, vegetable-based foods, and other meatbased products. There are frozen foods containing a mixture of ingredients formulated specially for certain fish types.
Freeze-dried Foods
Freeze-dried foods have a big advantage over live foods, because they retain all the nutrients of live food without the hassle of keeping live critters around. To make sure youre provided a balanced diet, Id recommend you feed freeze-dried foods in addition to a good flake food.
Live Foods
There are some advantages to feeding live foods namely your tank critters like them because theyre familiar with dining on other little critters in their natural environment. But there are also drawbacks to feeding live foods they can be difficult to keep and store and serve. Here are some of the more popular varieties of live foods by category:
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Crustaceans Brine Shrimp - very popular. Comes in live, frozen and freezedried forms, and can also be cultivated at home using brine shrimp eggs. Water Fleas Can be fed as a supplement about every 7-10 days. Also comes in live, frozen and freeze-dried forms. Cyclops - A good food for large fry and small fish, although these crustaceans will attack small fry. Available in frozen and live forms. River Shrimp A natural food for many large fish, but in order to keep them alive you must have a cool water tank with strong aeration
Worms Black Worms these are segmented worms usually raised on fish farms Tubifex Worms these nasty critters live in muddy, polluted streams, and can carry parasites and toxins. (Theyre the equivalent of human fast food.) Stay away from them if possible I only mention them because they can be used temporarily if your fish refuses any other food.) White Worms fatty and should only be fed occasionally. They can be cultured at home, and are usually used to feed older fry. Earthworms yep, regular old earthworms out of your garden. Clean them off and feed them to larger, meat eating fish.
Insect Larvae Bloodworms - A favorite fish food that can be purchased frozen, freeze-dried, or live. Black Mosquito Larvae - Black Mosquito larvae are an excellent food, full of vitamins that appear to help trigger spawning in some species. Easily caught in ponds and can be raised in standing containers of water. White Mosquito Larvae (Glassworms) - Glassworms are found in ponds. These insect larvae develop into gnats. Glassworms are available in live and frozen forms.
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Meal Worms - Meal worms are the larvae of beetles and are available in many pet shops. Theyre an occasional supplement, not a steady diet.
Insects Fruit Flies - Use only short-winged, non-flying fruit flies which are less likely to escape. Flies, Crickets, Beetles, Back swimmers - House flies can be captured, disabled, and fed to medium-to-large, carnivorous fish. Crickets can be captured or purchased at a pet store. Beetles and back swimmers can also be captured. Mollusks, Snails - Small water snails, can be fed to many species including Pufferfish.
Vertebrates Feeder Fish, Frogs, Tadpoles - Goldfish and guppies are widely used as feeder fish for larger species, as are frogs and tadpoles.
Micro Foods
Micro foods are easier to collect or culture than they are to buy. Micro foods are usually used for raising small fry. Green Water (Suspended Algae) - Easily cultured. Take a jar of aquarium water, add some algae from the aquarium, a few drops of plant fertilizer and leave it in a sunny spot. Feed with an eye dropper. Infusoria and Rotifers - Infusoria is the name given to certain single-celled microorganisms. Culture infusoria by adding crushed banana or lettuce to a jar filled with aquarium water. Feed using an eyedropper. Rotifer eggs can often be purchased at pet shops. Egg Yolk strain an egg yolk into a jar, add water and shake until water is cloudy. Feed using an eyedropper.
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Vitamins
Like any living organism, vitamins have an effect on fish as well. Here are some of the benefits of a balanced diet for your critters. Vitamin A stimulates cell growth Vitamin B1 (Thiamin) breaks down carbohydrates and promotes growth and fertility Vitamin B2 (Riboflavin) controls enzymes and proteins Vitamin B3 (Nicotin acid) helps aid in breakdown of proteins Vitamin B5 (Pantothene acid) hormone production and metabolism Vitamin B6 (Pyridomin) and B12 (Cyanocobalamin) aids in enzyme and protein metabolism Vitamin C (Ascorbic acid) aids in bone development, healing and digestion Vitamin D3 bone development Vitamin E development of sex organs and fertility Vitamin K blood formation and blood clotting Choline - growth and fat production and coloration
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POPULAR FRESHWATER SPECIES

As we discussed before, it would literally be impossible to give you descriptions of every possible choice for a freshwater tank, but I will give you a rundown of some of the most popular and the most successful species. There are several categories of fish that have proven popular in freshwater aquariums: Cichlids these are freshwater fish from tropical America, Africa and Asia. There are literally hundreds of sub-species some of the more familiar are Angelfish and Discus. Cyprinids these fish also come from Africa, Asia and America, as well as Europe. Theyre hardy and colorful, and include such recognizable species as Barbs and Danios. Catfish normally native to Africa and South America, catfish are now recognized the world over. Theyre very tough and very placid, making them an excellent choice for an aquarium. Anabantoids this more aggressive species hails from Africa and parts of Asia, and includes Gouramis and Siamese fighting fish. Livebearers these fish are native to Central America for the most part, and are very popular in aquariums since they are so hardy. Platys, Mollys and guppies belong to this category. Characins the ever-popular Tetras, Silver Dollars and Piranhas belong to this family.
On the following pages youll see some examples of each of these categories of fish.
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Angelfish
A member of the Cichlids genre, Angelfish are intelligent and petlike, but can be more aggressive with smaller species. They can also grow up to 6 in length, so I recommend keeping them with larger species.
Discus
Also Cichlids, Discus are pretty laid back and peaceful, so they do well in community tanks. One downside is that theyre sensitive to water conditions, so a clean tank and soft water are a necessity.
Tiger Barbs
A member of the Cyprinids, Tiger Barbs are active fish who love to school. They do well in community tanks.
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Neon Tetra
One of the most popular aquarium fish, Tetras are Characins, and like Tiger Barbs like traveling in schools. Tiny little guys, keep them out of tanks with larger meat-eaters so they dont become lunch.
Red Tailed Shark

Like most sharks, the Red Tailed Shark is a carnivore and a bottom feeder, and a member of the Cyprinid genre. They are particularly susceptible to poor or changing water quality so if you seen them acting strangely although the rest of the fish in your tank seem fine, check out the pH, nitrite and ammonia levels in the tank.
Silver Dollars
A member of the Characins, Silver Dollars are non-aggressive fish that do well in community tanks. They mind their own business and travel in schools, but they an be excitable when something interesting goes on outside the tank.
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Severum
Personable and pet-like Severum are members of Cichlids, and can grow from nickel-sized to larger than your hand. They should be kept in a larger tank (30 gallons or bigger.)
Lemon Cichlid
Similar to the Severum, this fish is only aggressive when spawning. They are quiet and peaceful and well suited for community aquariums with other non-aggressive fish.
Porthole Catfish
These catfish are a very low key, laid back kinda fish. Other than eating, theyre pretty quiet. They hang around in plants or on rocks until dinner time, minding their own business.
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Mollies
Mollies are hardy and breed readily in captivity, since theyre a member of the Livebearer group.
Oscar
Oscars are cichlids, and prefer live food. So if you have a smaller species that you want to keep around, use a different tank to keep them in, otherwise they may become an Oscar snack.
Siamese Fighting Fish (Betta)

The Siamese Fighting Fish is a beautiful fish that comes in a wide variety of colors. The males can be extremely aggressive and will fight constantly if housed together. Their color is enhanced in a very small tank; in a larger tank their brilliant colors tend to wash or fade out.
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Gourami
One of the most popular Anabantoids, these fish come in many different shapes, sizes and colors. They are great for community tanks but some types grow to be very large...possibly up to or over 3 feet in length!
Guppy
Perhaps the most popular livebearer on the market, guppies are easy to cultivate and are very hardy. Did you know that no two guppies look exactly alike?
Platy
Another Livebearer, Platys do well when kept with other Livebearers. Theyre happiest when schooling with their buddies.
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POPULAR SALTWATER SPECIES
Clownfish
Clownfish can range in color from this typical orange and white to black to blue. Theyre active, which is sometimes mistaken for clowning around, hence their name.
Cowfish
This odd-looking critter is a cowfish, one of a family of fish that have unusual characteristics, such as being able to move their eyes independently and exuding toxins when frightened or threatened.
Damsels
Small and active, these brilliantly colored little guys are also known as the anemones fish, because they live and breed among anemones in the wild.
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Flame Angelfish
This glow-in-the-dark angelfish is very hardy and does well in a community tank. They like to graze on algae and prefer established tanks.
Flame Hawkfish
The Flame Hawkfish, also known as the Brilliant Hawkfish, can be found hanging out on the coral reefs and rock perches of your tank, waiting for prey to swim by.
Golden Seahorse
This little charmer uses his prehensile tail to hold onto seaweed and coral as it makes its way around the tank. No Seattle Slew, this racehorse is too slow to chase its prey, so it uses its long nose to suck in small crustaceans.
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Koran Angelfish
A brilliantly-colored species of Angelfish, the Koran is a very popular and hardy fish that thrives in a community tank. It loves hanging out in the rocks and grazing on algae.
Lionfish
This spectacular fish is a little lazy its favorite hunting tactic is to hang out at the edge of the reef and wait for dinner to swim by. They particularly enjoy small crustaceans.
Niger Triggerfish
This fish that resembles a brightlycolored Goodyear Blimp actually changes color from day to day switching from blue to green and back again. It makes a grunting sound, and can rearrange the rocks in your tank.
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Polka-Dot Grouper
Also known as the panther grouper, this fish is very hardy and long-lived, and will add enormous visual interest to your tank. They grow rapidly, so make sure they dont outgrow the tank too soon.
Yellow Tang
This little guy, also known as the Yellow Hawaiian Tang, isnt as goofy as this picture makes him look hes actually fairly aggressive, even to its own species, and you should only keep one per tank.
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WHO GETS ALONG WITH WHOM?

Take a look at the chart below. Those fish listed in the Community group can generally safely be mixed together in the same tank. I say generally because fish are individuals, too, and you may have fistfights and squabbles break out from time to time, even among passive fish that normally get along. Regardless of how docile each species appears, keep an eye on them and make sure you separate individuals who appear likely to cause great bodily injury to their tank mates. Fish Compatibility Chart
Category Community Semi-Aggressive Aggressive ======================================================================= Anabantids Dwarf Gourami Honey Gourami Black Paradisefish Flame Gourami Kissing Gourami Opaline Gourami Pearl Gourami Siamese Fighting Fish/Betta(1) Spiketailed Paradisefish Catfish Banjo Catfish Bristlenose Chinese Algae Eater Corydoras Green Catfish Leopard Catfish Plecostomus Spotted Catfish Upside Down Catfish Characins Black Neon Tetra Black Phantom Tetra Cardinal Tetra Congo Tetra Emperor Tetra Flame Tetra Glowlight Tetra Head & Tail Light Tetra Neon Tetra Rummy Nosed Tetra Serpae Tetra Hatchetfish Pencilfish Bloodfin Penguin Fish X-Ray Fish Bumble Bee Catfish
Black Widow Red Belly Piranha Bleeding Heart Tetra Buenos Aires Tetra Silver Dollar
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Cichlids Angelfish Blue Acara Discus (2) Festivum Ram Firemouth Severum Convict Green Terror Jack Dempsey Red Oscar
Cyprinids
Cherry Barb Bala (Tri-Color) Shark Black Shark Blue Danio Giant Danio White Cloud Zebra Danio Harlequin Rasbora Lyretail Guppy Molly Platy
Flying Fox Green Tiger Barb Red Tailed Shark Rosy Barb Tiger Barb Tinfoil Barb
Killifish Livebearers
Swordtail
Knife Livebearer
Loaches
Clown Loach Dwarf Loach Horseface Loach
Unclassified Australian Rainbowfish Boesmani Rainbowfish Bumble Bee Goby Elephant Nose Rainbowfish Archer Butterfly Fish Freshwater Puffer
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COMMON FISHY ILLNESSES & AILMENTS

Probably one of the most common questions I get asked is Whats wrong with my fish? Well, thats a little hard to diagnose without actually seeing the fish itself, but there are some common ailments you should be familiar with, and you should be able to identify when something is really wrong. First off, you need to have a Fishy First Aid Kit handy.
FIRST AID KIT
Yes, you can have a first aid kit for your fish. My advice is to set one up before something goes wrong.

Water quality test kits: pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate Aquarium salt (NOT table salt. Most table salts contain additives to keep them from clumping. Kosher or rock salt is OK). Malachite green/formalin ich remedy Methylene blue Chlorine bleach for disinfection Maybe one antibiotic (Kaynamycin or Furanace) Antibiotic-containing food Copper remedy for parasites
And for fish big enough to handle:

Q-tips Malachite green or mercurochrome
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Now that you have all those emergency items on hand, here are a few basics to watch out for that are indications your fish may be in trouble. Most important: watch your fish and know what their normal behavior and appearance is. If you don't know what normal is, you can't possibly know what sick looks like.
SYMPTOMS THAT ARE NOT NORMAL:

Clamped fins (fins are held abnormally close to body) The fish refuses its usual food for more than 2 days. There are visible spots, lesions, or white patches on the fish. The fish gasps at the surface of the water. The fish floats, sinks, whirls, or swims sideways. The fish shimmies (moves from side to side without going forward). A normally active fish is still. A normally still fish is very active. The fish suddenly bloats up, and it's not due to eggs or young. The fish is scratching against tank decorations.
BAD WATER QUALITY

Symptoms: Your fish are gasping at the surface, or swimming lethargically, or even changing color from bright to dark or dull. There are no visible lesions you can see, but they may be swimming with fins clamped. Many fish of different species are affected, and possibly the whole tank. If the water has been bad for a while, the fish may have finrot, or streaks of blood in their fins.
If fish are gasping at the surface, or have purple gills: high ammonia or low dissolved O2 may be the problem; test ammonia, dissolved O2
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If the main symptom is inactivity: test nitrites, pH, dissolved 02, nitrates
Depending on your test results, try the following: Ammonia Change enough of the water to reduce ammonia levels to 1-2 ppm for freshwater or below 1 ppm for saltwater. If that means changing more than a third of the water, be sure the water you add is the same temperature, salinity, hardness and pH of the tank water. It is also okay to do multiple smaller water changes for a few days. Aerate, and make sure pH is at or below 7.0 for freshwater tanks. In addition to or instead of changing water, you can also add a dose of AmQuel to give fish immediate relief. Find out why ammonia is present and correct the problem. Nitrites Change enough of the water to bring nitrites down to below 2 ppm (as with ammonia, if this is a lot of water, do multiple water changes), add 1 tbsp/gallon salt (not all fish may tolerate this much -- start out with 1 tsp), and add supplemental aeration. Find out why the nitrite levels are high and correct the problem. Nitrates Change water and clean the filter. If your filter is dirty, there is more waste material present to break down into nitrate. Start feeding less and changing water more often. Low oxygen Run an airstone. If this helps a lot, the fish probably don't have enough oxygen in the water. Your tank may need cleaning, fewer fish, or additional water movement at the surface from a power head, airstone, or filter. Improper pH If pH is too low: make sure carbonate buffering is adequate -- at least 5dKH. In general, adding baking soda at 1 tsp. per 30 gal. Tropical Fish Secrets 80
raises dKH about 2. For a 10-20g tank that just needs the pH a little higher, try about a quarter teaspoon. If that isn't enough, add up to a teaspoonful more. You can scale this up to 1 tsp/30 gal for larger tanks. If the pH is still too low and the KH is at least 5-6 dKH, clean the tank. For long-term buffering in saltwater and alkaline freshwater systems, add crushed coral. If pH is too high, pH down (phosphoric acid) can be added. Don't rely on this stuff, except in extreme situations like ammonia poisoning because it can cause excessive algal growth. To lower pH long-term, filter over peat, or use distilled or deionized water mixed with your tap water.
FRESHWATER ICH
Symptoms: Fish look like they have little white salt grains on them and may scratch against objects in the tank. White spot disease (Ichthyopthirius multifiliis) is caused by a tiny organism that starts with one fish, falls off and attaches itself to the tank glass or gravel, then grabs onto another fish and spreads to the entire tank. To treat it, you must treat the entire tank. Medicine must be added to the tank to kill the parasites but be careful if its a reef tank, invertebrates are very sensitive to reef medications, so really the only alternative is to remove the fish to a quarantine tank. Some people think that ich is probably dormant in most tanks, and is probably triggered by temperature fluctuations. Remedy: For most fish, use a medication with formalin and malachite green. These are the active ingredients in many ich medications at fish shops. Some commercial products are Kordon's Rid Ich and Aquarium Products' Quick Cure. Use these products as directed (usually a daily dose) until all of the fish are spot-free. Then dose every three days for a total of four more doses.
FIN ROT
Fishes' fins turn whitish and die back. Fin rot often follows damage or injury. It can also be caused by poor water quality. Remedy: First, fix the water and remove any aggressive species that are biting your other fish. Change about 25% of the tank water and add 1
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tsp/gallon salt to promote healing. Healing should begin within a couple of days. If it worsens, it could be fungal or bacterial. Fungal finrot looks like clumps of cotton on the fins and usually follows injury. Treatment for fungus: For fish large enough to handle, catch the fish, and dab malachite green directly on the fungus with a Q-tip. This is extremely effective. Repeat treatments may be necessary. For smaller fish, try a commercial product such as Maroxy. For severe infestations, try a bath in methylene blue (enough so you can barely see the fish) until the fungus turns blue or for about 20 min. Dont add methylene blue directly to the tank; or youll kill your plants and ruin the biological filter. Bacterial finrot is whitish, but not cottony and can be contagious. The fish then need to be removed from the tank and medicated. Treatment for a bacterial infection: Remove the fish to a quarantine tank and treat with Antibiotics. This is stressful for the fish, and doesn't always work, so be sure of what youre doing before you try this. If the fish is still eating, try an antibiotic food. If the fish is not eating, a bath treatment is necessary. A combination of Kaynamycin and Furanace usually works, especially for Columnaris. Remove to a separate tank and aerate heavily.
INJURIES
Sometime fistfights will break out in your tank among species, and the combatants may sustain injuries that are severe enough to bleed. Other fish may run into tank decorations, walls, or rocks. Larger fish can be netted and their injuries dabbed with mercurochrome (available at drug stores) or Betadine (iodine-based antibiotic also available at drug stores) to help prevent infection. Do Not Get These Chemicals in the gills and eyes! For really small fish, put the affected fish in dilute methylene blue (pale blue) and 1 tsp/gallon salt in a separate tank. Watch the fish to be sure injuries are healing cleanly, and repeat the mercurochrome dosage if necessary. If finrot or fungus sets in, see the above section on finrot. Tropical Fish Secrets 82
DROPSY
This is what makes fish swell up like a balloon and their eyes bug out. Dropsy can be caused by a variety of things the most common are high nitrates in the tank and bacterial infections. The swelling is caused by the fish is absorbing water faster than it can eliminate it, Your fish may recover with no treatment whatsoever, or may die despite your best efforts to save it. If there are no water quality problems, you may want to attempt antibiotic treatment in a separate tank.
HEAD AND LATERAL LINE EROSION (HLLE OR HOLE-IN-HEAD DISEASE)

This disease can affect discus, other cichlids, and many saltwater fish. The fish develops holes in its head and sometimes along its lateral line. The causes are unclear but as in any disease, stress and poor water quality likely play a role. Its interesting to note that fish in planted tanks rarely get HLLE, which supports the nutrition idea, since fish can nibble on the plants and obtain extra nutrition. Or it may have something to do with the interchange of plants and oxygen. Scientists just arent sure. Remedy: First, make sure water quality is optimal and reduce stress. Carbon filtration may facilitate this problem, since it can remove nutrients from the water. So if you are using carbon filtration, switch to another form for a while, and feed a vitamin-enriched food in the meantime, paying particular attention to vitamin C supplementation. For stubborn cases, some experts suggest metronidazole (Flagyl) to eliminate Hexamita (a mildly pathogenic protozoan) from the lesions.
SWIM BLADDER DISORDERS

Fish floats upside-down or sideways. This is particularly common in fancy goldfish because of their bizarre body shapes. Dry food eaten quickly swells up in the fish's intestine and keeps the fish from controlling its swim
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bladder properly. This is a little like bloat in a dog, if youre familiar with that malady. To help, feed the fish pre-soaked or gel-based foods. Green foods are also helpful. As with finrot, these disorders can also be caused by bacterial infection. Treatment is much the same. Use antibiotic food if the fish is eating, or add antibiotic to the water in a quarantine tank if the fish is too sick to eat.
LARGE EXTERNAL PARASITES (AS OPPOSED TO ICH)

Add a copper remedy to the tank and monitor it with a copper test kit. Also, Mardel's Maroxy works well. For anchor worms or leeches on pond fish, remove them from the affected fish with tweezers and swab the area with mercurochrome to prevent infection.
VELVET
Fish look like they have been finely dusted with flecks of gold. Fins may be clamped and the fish may shimmy. Treat with an anti-parasitic formalin/malachite green. medication such as copper or
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CONCLUSION
Well, there you have it a comprehensive look at all things fishy from setting up your tank to safety concerns to health issues and what to do about them. Weve looked at various species of freshwater fish and saltwater fish, and the best way to care for each. Weve covered a lot of territory, and whether youre a complete novice at Tropical Fish raising and owning, or someone whos had years of experience I hope youve found Tropical Fish Secrets chock full of useful and fun information. I certainly had fun writing it. My own personal experience has been that once this hobby gets its hooks in you it never lets go! It turns into a lifetime obsession because theres always something new to learn, or a new fish to buy, or a new piece of technology that comes out to make your life easier and your fish happier. Thanks for coming along on this journey of discovery with me, and may the fish be with you!
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Your Ultimate Guide to Tropical Fish