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NATIONAL
GEOGRAPHIC
MAGAZINE
JULY. 1945
War's Wake in the Rhineland
With 29 Tlustrations and Map THOMAS R. HENRY
Potomac, River of Destiny
With 15 Illustrations and Map ALBERT W, ATWOOD
George Washington's Historic River
i8 Natural Color Photographs WILLARD R, CULVER
ROBERT F. SISSON
This Was Austria
8 THustrations
To Market in Guatemala
19 Natural Color Photographs GILES GREVILLE HEALEY
CHARLES 8. PINEO
Yank Meets Native
With 24 Ilustrations WANDA BURNETT
Thirty-two Pages of Illustrations in Color
PUBLISHED BY THE
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY
l WASHINGTON, D.C.
Ma] assets,
oS pa aaVor. L.
CXXVIIL, Nov
WASHINGTON
Jury, 1945
NATIONAL
GEOGRAPHIC
MAGAZINE
SEAVER, toe WT RATION, GRAM NOTH: WARWINRTOAL WT EMGTICANG GOpWISUT SSS
War's Wake in the Rhineland
By Tuomas R. Hexky
Washinulon Keewing Star Cortespondent, Fist U.S. Army
E castled Rhine Valley of song and
Jegend, of Heine's Lareleé ancl Wasrner’s
Ber Ring des Nibelungen, today is a
desolate land of rubble piles which yesterday
were great cities, of highway’ strewn with the
Doodstained, rain-seaked debris of fleeing
armies, of scared and sullen people whose brief
opium dream of world empire has burst like a
land mine under a tank:
Such cities as Aachen, Diiren, Cologne,
and Roblena essentially have ceased to exist
(map; page 4), They must be rebuilt almost
entirely to be habitable await, for today Large
areas, Incliding their principal business and
residential sections, are flattened deserts of
stone ‘and plaster strewn with tags, waste-
Fragments of furniture. When-
it blows, these ruins are veiled in
clouds of dust, In the cold spring rains they
present a picture of dire and dreary desolation,
Often. in western Europe's troubled history
conquering armies have marched, both est
wand and westward, over the low, spruce:
covered Eifel and Hunsriick mountains and
the flat, black, dismal Cologne plain, bringing,
with them tragedy and destruction.* But the
effects have been relatively mild in the past,
for no hostile troops hitherto had crossed the
area since the start of the Machine Age. with
its ever more terrible weapons of annihilation
The Rhineland escaped very lightly. fi the
inst war, It was not entered by the Allies until
after the armistice, and the military. occupa-
tion of the country was exceptionally mild
‘There was no devastation, Contacts between
the Rhinelanders and American, British, and
‘French ‘soldiers were, on the whole, friendly.
* See “Map af Germany’ andl Te Approaches," 10-
colar munplement with the July, 144, isue af the
Nationat Guogearine MAuarINE, and pago 7
About the only inconvenience suffered by the:
hatives was that of providing billets in| their
homes for the accupation forces,
Soldiers fell in love with the land.
It is one of the minst beautiful countries
on earth, especially in spring with orchards
in bloom, vineyards turning green on terraced
‘hills and river banks, and forests whose great
trees are in almost perfectly
without any undergrowth, ‘They
cathedral aisles, ‘They are filled with: the
organ tones of falling waters. The sunshine
through the high branches falling on the leafy
floor is like light throtigh stained-glass wine
dows. Almost every American soldier who
spent a few months there has felt a nnstalgic
longing sooner or Tater to go. bark
War Plays Tricks of 2 Tornada
But far different is the picture today from
Wehing the soldier of 1918 would remember.
fe gecatest war tornade in all history. has
swept the kand
‘War, in fact, plays all the queer tricks of
a tornado. It literally wipes one. town from
the face of the earth, while the town five miles
away escapes nearly untouched,
T have just been through the greater part of
the Rhineland campaign with the United
States’ First Atmy, to which fell the job of
conquering the greater part of this area and
establishing the first bridgehead across the
Rhine which eliminated Germany's last good
natural ling of defense.
During the past three years of war 1 have
seer) many bomb- and shell-ruined cities.
There was a constantly rising curve of de~
struction.
We used to look with horror on the devasta-
tion of the great French naval base of BizerteThe National Geographic Magazine
An Ann
perturbed
chill in the A
Marshal Sir Be
eantike horizon js due to censor
id LCVP wre May
the Tun nal 1943, Day But while p i through town after town
y it Ww American and in the Rhir in the last few weeks, we
British medium remarked, over and aver again, ‘This is almost
When troops Info as bad as St..." Sometimes, because of th
finalls ed the there was hardly a ¢ iny weather, it looked even wr
house left and only
citi remained, We wonde: a
could have stayed alive: under the bomb
to the nsit ich the ruined bloc
give le eyinle
The Army: move
that the destruct!
habitabi
‘ot that the Allied Armies followed any
destruction,
held artillery
$10 their own disadvantag
their better judgment
Bombardie
re startin
which, if possit
am to Sicily and found
f Bizerte was relati
ns of ruin i
the har
Id not be hit
Rhinclunders wildered
onto Fr
and the devastation “But war is war,
Id in turn compared to that sisted—oiten foolishly and hopele
ns in Normandy. The worst struction was the only alternative to losing
example was the once lovely and prosperous lives of Allied soldiers in clearing the way to
market town and fai ter, St, Li, the Rhine.
Here was a was little shor The Allied s
ulverized. Tt was It was dust, recognize the Rhine
ably for all time it will remain were a rather pleasin ratiating folk.
2 example of how thore ow the troops passing through get only looks
ands of ton of sullen hatred from the people on the side
walks,
of 1918-19 would hardly
nders today, Then thes