Prusa Mendel Build Manual Addendum

04/08/2012

This should be read in conjunction with the Prusa Mendel Build Manual Section 1.0 Bill of Materials 3.18 88x M8 Washers Should Read 3.18 100x M8 Washers Section 3.0 Y Axis Assembly Step 2

Slide the rods into the second rod clamps. Centre the rods 50mm from the inside edge of the frame vertices. Do not fully tighten yet. ensure the rod clamp has 1-2mm of play. These will be adjusted and tightened during the Y Carriage Assembly. Should Read Slide the rods into the second rod clamp. Centre the rods 55mm from the inside edge of the frame vertices on both ends of the frame. Do not fully tighten yet. ensure the rod clamp has 1-2mm of play. These will be adjusted and tightened during the Y Carriage Assembly. Section 4.0 X/Z Axis Assembly 4.2 Step 4 The Image can be a little confusing so it has been updated from a different angle for the correct orientation of the three LM8UU bearings

Prusa Mendel Build Manual Addendum

! Section 6.0 Motor/Belt/Endstop Assembly 6.2 Step 1

04/08/2012

The 10mm M3 Bolts for mounting the stepper motors arent long enough to bite sufficiently into the motor through the Y Bracket. We have today shipped to all of our kit customers, 12x M3 12mm and 12x M3 16mm bolts and M3 washers and an additional Y Motor Mount (in case you drilled it out slightly to use the 10mm bolts). You can either use the 12mm bolts or use the 16mm bolts with a couple of washers. Please accept our apologies for this mistake Section 7.0 Build / Heated Bed Assembly 7.2 Step 3

The Images have been updated to reflect the correct number of bulldog clips and instructions for mounting the mirror. Should Read Step 3 Place the Heated Bed on the Wooden bed, thread the cables under the wooden bed and follow the thermistor cables out the left hand side. Position the centre of the Heated Bed over the thermistor in the centre of the wooden bed.

Prusa Mendel Build Manual Addendum

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04/08/2012

Step 4 Now take the Mirror Build Plate top and some kapton tape ( 20mm Wide supplied with kit) and carefully cover the mirror in kapton tape. This is a bit like putting a screen protector on a mobile phone, use a card or something similar to evenly spread the kapton tape over the mirror ( try to avoid overlapping the kapton tape, as the hot end could foul on the marginal change in height and try and avoid air bubbles for the same reason). If you do get any air bubbles trapped, use a sharp knife or pin and prick the bubble slightly and you should be able to squeeze any air out.

Prusa Mendel Build Manual Addendum

04/08/2012

! Step 5 Now place the mirror over the heated bed and clamp it onto the heatbed & plywood build base using the 6 bull dog clips provided. Then remove the silver spring arms from the bull dog clips. You can just use 4 on the front and back if you wish. With the two bull dog clips on the side make sure they are positioned so that they dont foul the hot end and also dont fowl the sides of the frame (angled rods).

Prusa Mendel Build Manual Addendum

! Section 9.0 9.4 Wiring - Additional Final Step Step 14

04/08/2012

We have supplied a generic electronics enclosure (RAMPS Box). This isnt specifically designed the Ramps board, so feel free to cut and modify the box in order to locate the electronics how you wish, a small hacksaw, or sharp knife should be suitable for cutting the box. We have done this as there are many ways of locating the electronics on or around the printer and we felt this should be up to you. Please note however dont put the cover on the box unless you are providing additional cooling ( fans etc) otherwise the RAMPS board wont receive enough ventilation. All of our machines run without fan cooling, but the tops of the RAMPS Boards are left exposed, hence we dont supply a fan. Also we wouldnt recommend making any of the wiring runs/routing permanent, until you have completed section 11.0 Commissioning and have completed your test prints and are sure everything is 100% connected correctly and working.

If you want to cover the box, you will need to implement additional cooling as the convection cooling effect without the lid on will no longer occur with the lid on. Some Examples You could connect a PC Case fan to one of the spare 5v molex connectors on the Power supply for a permanently running fan. You could mount pc headers onto one of the RAMPS Boards AUX Mounts and then control the fan using the host software.

Prusa Mendel Build Manual Addendum

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04/08/2012

We have added some additional content to the steps in Section 11.0 Commissioning to make clearer and more informative Section 11.0 Commissioning 11.1 Frame Leveling Step 1 It is important that your printer is kept level. After you have used your printer you should regularly check that it is level and the frame nuts are tight. This is especially important any time that you change or adjust any other hardware on your printer, such as your bed or a hot end. Check that the surface your printer will be used on is level. Position your printer where it will be used. Remember to allow enough room for the bed to move fully and allow you some access to all sides. Leave space for your electronics and the Power supply. The build instructions suggest your RAMPS board is located to the rear left of the printer, however the cables are long enough for your to position things to suit your workspace. It can be useful to have good access to the main power supply on/off switch as this can act as a master cut off for your printer should you need to stop it quickly, this is not a recommended way to stop your printer though. Now check that all nuts on your printer frame are tight. The printer should sit squarely and not twist. Dont over tighten the plastics as they can crack. Regularly check your nuts are tight. Vibration from printing can loosen them over time. Keeping them tight can also reduce wear from them moving or rattling. It will reduce undue stress to plastic parts. Step 2 Take a small spirit level (A weighted piece of string will also work if you do not have a small spirit level) and hold it against one the smooth rods on the outside on the Z Axis. Loosen the M8 nuts next to the lower Z axis and move the axis until your Z Axis is level then tighten. Repeat this for both of the Z Axis. This ensures the Z axis moves up and down straight. Check this regularly. Its a good idea to check and tighten the couplings on the Z threaded rods and Z motors at the same time as adjustment on these will pull the z axis out of line. Step 3 Now measure then gap between your work surface and the base of the X End Motor Mount. Make a note of this and then hold the coupling tight on that Z Axis. Twist the opposing Z Axis coupling to raise or lower your X Idler Mount until it is the same height as the other X end. Check this regularly. If you find that when printing this is not staying level. This could be caused either by the couplings slipping or the stepper motors skipping steps. If the a stepper is missing steps (ie not turning when it should) refer to section 11.4 Adjusting Stepper Motor Drivers and check the calibration of the Z Motor stepper driver. Note this shouldnt be necessary as they have already been calibrated and performed a test print. You can use this adjustment to fine tune your bed leveling. If you have a spirit level you can use it to ensure your X Axis is perfectly level by placing it

Prusa Mendel Build Manual Addendum

04/08/2012

! across the ZX Axis smooth rods. Turn the Couplings until its level. Section 11.0 Commissioning 11.2 Bed Leveling Step 6 Repeat these steps while gradually lowering the X Axis down the Z Axis. Ensure the Hotend stays level above the bed until it is 1-2mm from the bed. Now slide a piece of paper between the nozzle tip and your bed. This will prevent your hot end from scratching your print surface while adjusting the Endstops. 11.3 End Stops Step 1 The Z Axis end stop should be pushed up against the base of the X end so that the pin is depressed. Your Hotend should be close to the right height following the previous steps. Now using the software raise your Z axis up by 10-20 mm. Then lower your Z Axis by the smallest increments, position the end stop so the switch is pressed before the Hotend nozzle touches the bed surface. The correct gap between bed and nozzle tip is around .35mm Using the piece of paper you left between the nozzle tip and bed, lower the Z Axis until the nib is a close as possible but you can still move the paper. When your Endstop is at the right height tighten the clamp. Now move your hotend around on the x axis and check that the gap between your hotend and bed is the same across the bed. Check next with he Y axis by moving them bed. follow the bed leveling and frame leveling steps to make any adjustments. Step 2 To get the X axis Endstop in the correct position, check that when the X Carriage moves along the rods, part of the extruder body should make contact with the switch. when the X Carriage is all the way across and the switch is depressed check that the Hotend nozzle tip is above the bed still and if it has gone past and will not catch on your bulldog clips. You can bring the Endstop in along the rod to adjust. Step 3 Ensure the Y Endstop is in position to be activated by the Aluminum bed when it returns along its axis. Check that your bulldog clips and cables do not catch on it. Check from above that when in position the hotend does not run off the bed or hit a bulldog clip. Adjust it along the rod if required. Step 4 With your Endstops in place and your frame and bed level ensure your computer software is set up and test the movement of your printer (as per section 10 Computer Setup. Make sure that your Axis move in the correct direction and check there is no excess strain on belts or pulleys. Check for any loose nuts and bolts.

Prusa Mendel Build Manual Addendum

! 11.7 Loading Filament

04/08/2012

Step 4 Keep feeding the filament until it reaches the bottom of the Hotend, you should see the filament start to ooze from the Hotend. If your filament stops moving before you see any released from the hotend first check your temperature and make sure your hotend is at 230. If it has cooled, get back to temperature before trying to remove or reload the filament. When hot reverse the direction of the extruder gear and pull the filament up and out. Always check that your hot end has not moved or been pushed out of the hotend clamp. trim back the filament and create a new sharp end with a knife. Re feed it in to the extruder. The filament can have a curve from the reels, twisting the filament and feeding again can help when your filament is stopping before entering the hotend. If you it remains hard to feed filament through to the hot end and you are sure there is not debris or blockage in the extruder or hotend then another method is to hold your hotend with a pair of large pliers and loosen the hotend clamp. slide the hot end out. Then feed the filament down through the extruder and holing the hotend line up the filament from the bottom of the extruder and push the hotend up into place. Tighten the hot end clamp back up. Also make sure to check your Z endstop home position. Step 5 Now pull the Idler back up and put the two sprung bolts back in. Tighten the bolts so the bearing in the idler pushes the filament against the Hobbed bolt. Tighten them so that the springs compress to approximately 80% of their original length. Step 6 Now you can test extruding filament from the Pronterface software. Use Pronterface to move your axis so that the Hotend tip is approximately 50mm from the bed. In Pronterface check that the Extrude length is 5mm and click Extrude. You should see filament come out of your Hotend. Now increase the extrude length in pronterface to 50mm and click extrude. Watch the filament as is releases. You should see a consistent line extruded at a consistent speed. If your filament is extruding fast then slow or it is coming out at different thicknesses, adjust the tension on the two sprung extruder bolts. Tightening them will push the filament against the hobbed bolt increasing grip. If these are too tight the filament will grind against the hobbed bolt and not extrude.

Prusa Mendel Build Manual Addendum

! Previous Addendums - 01/08/2012 Section 1.0 Bill of Materials

04/08/2012

2.8 1x 16mm Steel Round Rod Should read 2.8 1x 19mm Steel Round Rod Section 8.0 Extruder & Hot End Assembly

8.2 Steps 2 & 3 Within the Images in steps 2 and 3 the hobbed bolt and driven gear are a orientated in the opposite direction. i.e. they should be orientated as per the image in step 5 Images should appear as below Step 2

Step 3

Prusa Mendel Build Manual Addendum

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04/08/2012

Section 9.0 Wiring 9.3 Ramps Board Diagram The + and - symbols are the wrong way round on the D8,D9,D10 connectors, this doesn't affect the D10 connector but it would imply the heated bed connections (D8) were the other way round to the photo, so to confirm the red cable from the heated bed connects to the D8+ terminal and the black to the D8- terminal. As in the photo in Step 1 of 9.4 Ramps Board Connection Corrected Diagram :

Prusa Mendel Build Manual Addendum

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04/08/2012