KNITTED GRADING RULES

What is Grading?

HOW TO

Ok some of you who pattern cut might know what grading is but the likelihood is that you probably don't or won't have come across this. You know when you pick up you knitting pattern and it tells you how many stitches for a size 10 and then how many for a 12 !ell there is usually more for the size 12. "f you look along the sizes# there should be a standard $ump between each size# for e%ample a &' sts per size might be 12# 1(# 20# 2'# 2)# so each size increases ' sts for every size. *his &' is called a grading rule. +ow for the e%ample above# this is a little misleading because "'ve put it into a knitting and stitches conte%t. ,sually grading rules are done in a measurement format and then depending on your tension s-uare or swatch# this will translate over to stitches. .o the grading rules# in measurements# will always stay consistent in every pattern or design but depending on your tension s-uare# the amount of stitches will change. .o to start let's go over the measurement points on the body first.

SNP' refers to the side neck point. "f you are not sure what this is# take a $umper and look at the shoulder seam. "t is the point nearest to your neck on the shoulder seam where the front panel and back panel meet the collar seam# usually a rib.

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KNITTED GRADING RULES

NOTES ON THE GRAPHIC and MEASUREMENTS:

HOW TO

/ave you ever gone shopping and been one size in shop 0 and then been a bigger size in shop 1 !ell grading and sizing are very specific to each retailer or designer and each retailer has to start with what's called a fit model. *his person# the fit model# is the fit standard for their base size in all garments and products# then their grading rules are applied on top# scaling the fit model so to speak. /owever we all know that there is no standard size and that each size# as you move up or down# is not a carbon copy $ust scaled. "f you are thinking of using grading rules for your own products or pattern making# it's important to note that these can really only been given as a rough guide and you'll have to decide for yourself what is most appropriate for your customers or clients. /owever# most grading rules only vary slightly in fit so use the guide below to help you 2&345 +ow before we get into the rules themselves# it's important to note that these are for the 'average' person. +ot many e%ist " know# including me# so for petite clothes you will need to reduce any of the length measurements and of course where they are measured from# if this is determined by length# like the waist and hips for e%ample. 0lso it is generally agreed by clothing manufacturers that over a certain size# the body starts to change shape a little bit so the grading rules then start to increase per $ump. 6or e%ample if on the average size the cuff rule was 0.7cm# for plus size this might be a 0.)cm per size. 8epending on how large or small you want to go# this increase in $ump usually happens every 74( sizes. "t is also agreed and a reason a lot of retailers only make up to a size 1( ,9 is that at size 1) the first increase $ump occurs. *he important thing to remember if you are considering making up grading rules for a product# customer or service is that you can't please everyone. !e are all made in different shapes and sizes so you can only really use a middle ground.

*hese are general measurements and measurement points that " use for the ,9 fashion industry. !oven garment and knitted3$ersey garment sizes are in fact different when they are made due to the stretch and type of fabric construction. .o you shouldn't compare these to a woven size chart. *he top numbers below are 'on the flat'. *his is the measurement taken when the garment is laid flat and measured at specific points. *hey are half of the total garment. *he measurements below are all .9"+ *":/*# so you may want to add some additional cms 2or 'give'5 for clothes. *here are many points on the body to measure so "'ve included the main ones. .maller ones are usually between 0.;40.7cm and larger ones usually 142.7cm. <easurements of length# like trousers or sleeves# rarely change.

UK SIZE European SIZE US SIZE Bust

2.7cm under armhole '0cm down from .+>

8 36 4
;;.7 (=cm 2?.7 7? ;1.7 (; 7? ;1 1'.7 2? =.7 17
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10 38 6
;( =2cm ;2 (' ;' () 7? ;2 17 ;0 ) 1(

12 40 8
;).7 ==cm ;'.7 (? ;(.7 =; 7? ;; 17.7 ;1 ).7 1=

14 42 10
'1 )2cm ;= =' ;? =) 7? ;' 1( ;2 ? 1)

16 44 12
';.7 )=cm ;?.7 =? '1.7 ); 7? ;7 1(.7 ;; ?.7 1?

+/GRADE RULE

2.7 7 2.7 7 2.7 7 0 1 0.7 1 0.7 1

a!st

"op #e$

(0cm down from .+> 2for tops5

S%ee&e Len't( S(ou%)er B!*ep +u,,

@rown to @uff measured straight .houlder seam to .houlder .eam ,nder armhole# straight across sleeve .traight across opening of the cuff

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