distribution in the yam structure is being analyzed.

The pho- Results

tographs below show typical cross-sections of ring and open-
end yams, respectively. Further work on characterization of
fiber distribution is in progress and will be reported
subsequently.
It is obvious from the photographs on the previous page that
the two spinning systems impose differing fiber distributions
in the cross-section. Measurements on the distributions will
be made in the next reporting period when the experimental
results will be fitted to a theoretical distribution as reported in
l B.C. Goswami, R.D. Anandjiwala and M. Carmical, Engi-
neering of Fiber PropertiesJor Spinning on Various Sys-
tems, J. Appl. Poly. Sci.: Applied Polymer Symposium 47,
464-485, pp 463-485 (1991).
Yarn Performance During Weaving
Summary:
During this quarter the collection of breakage report on per-
formance of ring-spun yarn has been completed. Also, gait-
ing and initial setting-up work for open-end yarn beam has
been completed. Loom operation to collect actual perform-
ance report of open-end yam beam has been initiated. The
analysis of breakage report for ring-spun yarn has just com-
menced. After completing this analysis work, attempt will be
made to compare the actual weaving performance with labo-
ratory evaluation on Sulzer-Ruti Webtester reported in the
previous quarter.
The breakage pattern and incidence of breaks on the loom
during weaving of ring-spun yarn has demonstrated that it is
important to understand the dynamic tension variation in the
warp yam during weaving. A Tenstec tensiometer will be
used to measure the dynamic tension in the warp yam. It is
planned to interface this tension measuring device to a com-
puter to continuously measure and plot the dynamic tension
variation on the loom.
20 , I studied in different ways and approach during knit geometry
The warp break report for the performance of ring-spun yams
is collected for 192 hours of loom running. The approximate
time of occurrence of a break is noted which is then used to
convert to the actual fatigue cycles. This is facilitated by con-
sidering the loom speed. The graph below shows the fre-
quency diagram of the number of cycles at which the breaks
occurred on the loom. Initial study of this diagram suggests
that a much more complex phenomena is involved in actual
weaving compared to three parametric Weibull distribution
observed in the laboratory evaluation on the Webtester. Fur-
ther work on the analysis of this data is in progress which
will be reported later.
Dimensional Stability, Aesthetic and
Mechanical Properties of Micro-Fiber
Blended Knitted Fabrics
c92c3
Principal Investigators:
Dr. S. Rose Matic-Leigh, Asst. Professor (Clemson)
Objectives:
The main objective of this research is to study and generate
the information of the microfibers and their blends used in
knitting production. The concept is to use the microfibers
and their blends with natural fibers to produce knit fabrics
with better fabric performance, dimensional stability, and im-
proved aesthetic characteristics. It has already been proven
that microfibers possess a great potential for use in the ap-
parel industry. Most studies and production was done in the
weaving area, but there are a lot of indicators that knit fabrics
can be even more improved using microfibers and their
blends.
Summary:
Dimensional properties of weft knit fabric have long been
research. The properties of a knitted structure are largely de-

Dimensional properties of microfiber knits

from open-end and ring spun yarns are be-
ing measured.
F termined by the interdependence of each stitch with its neigh-
r IO - bors on either side and above and below it. Knitted loops are
e arranged in rows and columns roughly equivalent to the warp
q and weft of woven structures termed ‘courses’ and ‘wales’ re-
U spectively. The are determined in laboratory by using suit-
e able magnifying and counting devices such as pick glass, rule
n and pointer, microfilm reader or projection equipment. It
C takes longer time and has lower accuracy. Variation in di-
Y 0 mensional properties of weft knit fabric often results in differ-
ences in physical and mechanical properties such as heat
# of cycles * 100 retention, permeability, tenacity, resilience, elasticity, abra-
Frequency Dish-ibution of Warp Break on Loom
for Ring-spun Ywn
sion resistance, fuzz resistance, pill resistance, snag. It is

Narinnol Textile Center Quarterly Report: April - Jwte 1993 1 3

 therefore desirable to have at our disposal accurate and effi- Today the term 1
cient methods for quantiQing aspects of dimensional mor- lTTFuT Or9
is known as the fabric “tightness factor” and d/L is known as
phology of weft knit fabric. While dimensional
the fabric “cover factor”. It was found that the linear dimen-
morphometrics of weft knits been a rather manual affair,
sions of the loop of the plain knit fabric in both conditions of
there has not been any progress toward its automation.
relaxation were given by the following equations:
Measurements are generally limited to a few attributes, how- courses Kc
ever, and there is a certain lack of consistency in the use of inch-r
dimensional terminology.
wales
~-- _ Kw
Computerized image capture and image analysis promise inch L
rapid, accurate dimensional quantification of weft knit fabric.
This report contains a number of dimensional descriptors of courses. wales
7-- _ Kc . & = KS
inch 111c11 L L i;r
weft knit fabric that are intended to capture most of the varia-
tion in two dimensions. These descriptors have been put into courses/inch = J& JCr
wales/inch K w
dimensional analysis program written in AL1 language of Where Kc, Kw, KS and Kr are constants could fabric dimensional parameters.
OPTIMAS Image Analysis System. The algorithms we have
used are also discussed. Image capture and processing are es- The following results were obtained from the experimental
sential parts of this protocol, since some of the measurements observations on plain knit wool fabrics:
we use are difficult or impractical to obtain by hand. I
Dry Relaxed Wet Relaxed
Description of Plain Knit Fabric Geometry 1 KS 19.2 21.6
Plain fabric is produced on a single set of needles with every 5 I 5.3 II
loop pulled through the previous loop in the same direction. Kw 3.8 1 4.1
Thus on the technical back both the crown and base of the
Loop Shape of Knit FaLwic
loop are visible with the
straight arms of the loop
showing on the front. Three samples of single jersey fabric, they are made from
A cross-sectional view three different OES spun yarns with the same yarn count.
of the plain structure The only difference is that the diameter of micro-fiber is dif-
shows that all the loops ferent. (See Table below)
are bent into the third
dimension due to the
Yarn
manner in which the
Diameter loops are pulled through Sl 25Nell Yarn
OES Spun 1 919 W 1 0.7 DPF
each other. The struc-
ture is thus clearly un- 25 Nell OES Spun 40 A 1.0 DPF
balanced causing the Yarn
fabrics to curl at the 25Nell OES Spun 107w 1.5 DPF
edges in an attempt to Yarn
Loop release some of the
strains within the loop.
Width In order to make the testing data representable, twenty im-
ages have been taken from each sample and for each index,
Fabric Tightness and Quality
fifty testing data were collected and mean value was given.
It has already been shown that loop length is the only factor
The undyed knitting fabrics are put on the blackboard, and
influencing the dimensional properties of the knitted fabric.
image is taken into video-recorder through CCD camera.
However, yams of different counts knitted to the same loop
length will display different physical properties, such as han-
One macro program is designed especially to measure geome-
dle, drape, openness, permeability, etc.. A fabric knitted
try parameters of plain knit fabric, and is a semi-automatic
from a course yarn will be much more tightly knitted for a
operation. The testing data are automatically collected and
given loop length than would a fine yarn.
saved into a data file.
It was suggested that numerical evaluation is described as Cover Factor = d/L, Tightness Factor = T**OS/ L
wllsrs d=yam diamstsr, T=yarn count (kx), L=loop Irngtb
“cover factor”. Thus the fractional area of space occupied by
a knitted loop is given by: Loop length, loop width and loop height will describe the
Area covered bv yarn in one loop --- 9 --- 1 -I-**0 5 shape of the loop. Course density, wale density and fabric
Area of one loop L*N**O.S A L density are describtng the dimensional size of knit fabric.
where d=yam diameter, L=loop length, N=indirect count, T=dirsct count

14
The following three tables show the testing results:

Single Jersey of 0.7DPF, single jersey of l.ODPF, single jer-

sey of l.SDPF have some differences in loop shape (such as
loop length, loop width, loop height).

For the course density, wale density, and fabric density, sin-
gle jersey of l.ODPF and single jersey of l.SDPF are similar,
but single jersey of 0.7DPF has imported differences with
them. When micro fiber diameter increases (0.7DPF --A
l.ODPF ---> l.SDPF), yarn diameter decreases (0.0207cm --- s3 1 Yarn 1 Fabric 1 Cover 1 Tightness
> 0.0194cm ---0.0191cm). Diameter Density Factor Factor
Average 0.02 57.7 0.04 0.11
For the cover factor and tightness factor, single jersey of Value
l.ODPF and single jersey of 1.5DPF are similar. Single jer- Standard 0 2.72 0.01 0.01
sey of 0.7DPF has some differences. Deviation
CV (%) 13.51 4.72 14.43 5
N 150

*S3--- Single Jersey with micro fiber diameter 1.5PF;

Magnification = 0.67 * 1.5 * 0.5; Measuring Unit = cm;
Course Density = Courses / cm; Wale Density = Wales / cm;

Textile Structures for Composites

s292c12
Principle Investigator And Reporter:
Mansour Mohamed (NC State)

Objectives (Long Term):

*s1 --- Single Jersey with micro fiber diameter 0.7DPF;
Magnification = 0.67 * 1.5 * 0.5; Measuring Unit = cm;
Course Density = Courses / cm; Wale Density = Wales / cm;
s2 --- Single Jersey with micro fiber diameter 1 .ODPF;
Magnification = 0.67 * 1.5 * 0.5; Measuring Unit = cm;
Course Density = Courses / cm; Wale Density = Wales / cm;
National Tatile Center Quarterly Report: April - June 1993
The overall objective of this work is to expand the boundaries
of textile processing with the ultimate goal of producing new
multi-dimensional fibrous structures for composite
applications.
The application and development of textile preforms’
manufacturing methods by laminated and stitched fab-
rics, 2-D and 3-D braiding, 2-D and 3-D weaving, and
warp and weft knitting.
To produce composites from these complex textile
structures using different infiltration and consolidation
systems.
To develop and validate analytical techniques for un-
derstanding the behavior of the composites as a func-
tion of process and reinforcement structure.
To develop a processing science and technology basis
for the manufacturing of these materials and to develop
an understanding of the interaction between processing
performance.
To develop a “performance map” of the different textile
reinforcement structures in terms of mechanical prop-
erties, shape forming capabilities, and eventually, eco-
nomics to be used as a design guide for their
application in end use products.
15