KNITTING

August 30, 2005

1 Introduction
Knitting is the art of using yarn or thread to make fabric from interlocking loops. Its origin has been traced
as far back as the fourth or fth century B.C. to sandal socks discovered in the Middle East.
In the past, knitting has been the occupation of shepherds watching their ocks, sailors whiling away the
hours of long voyages during the age of exploration, apprentices who studied it in 13th and 14th Century
knitting guilds, and royal knitters in the court of England at the time of King Henry VIII. At certain times
in history, only members of royalty were allowed to wear knitted items. One of the knitted garments on
display at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London is a handsome handknitted silk shirt, which King
Charles I wore on the day of his beheading.
Handknitting is a popular pastime, producing items that are functional, economical, fashionable and fun
to make. In addition, knitting offers an opportunity for creative selection of color and style, and allows you
to fashion garments that really t. For all these reasons and more, we think you will enjoy learning the art
of knitting.
The information in this document came fromthe web site http://www.wonderful-things.com/newknit.htm
Compiled in a more legible and printer friendly document by Matthew Spong in April 2005, using L
A
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X.
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Contents
1 Introduction 1
2 Learning To Knit 5
2.1 Casting On . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
2.1.1 Knitting On . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
2.1.2 Cable Cast-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
2.1.3 Single Cast on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
2.1.4 Double Cast-On Method. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
2.1.5 Looped Cast On . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
2.2 Holding The Yarn And Needles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
2.2.1 Forming the Knit Stitch/English . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
2.2.2 Forming the Knit Stitch/Continental . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
2.3 Learning the Purl Stitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
2.3.1 Forming the Purl Stitch/English . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
2.3.2 Forming the Purl Stitch/Continental . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
2.4 Increasing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
2.4.1 Yarn-Over Increase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
2.4.2 Raised Increase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
2.4.3 Lifted Increase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
2.4.4 Bar And Moss Increase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
2.5 Decreasing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
2.5.1 Double Decreasing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
2.6 Binding Off . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
2.6.1 Plain Bind-off . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
2.6.2 Suspended Bind-off . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
2.6.3 Ending a bind off row. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
2.6.4 Plain Bind Off Two Pieces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
2.6.5 Invisible Bind Off . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
2.6.6 Crocheted Bind Off . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
2.7 Cables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
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2.8 Correcting Errors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
2.9 Picking up Stitches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
2.10 Assembling a Garment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
2.10.1 Stockinette-side seams. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
2.10.2 Stockinette-shoulder seams. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
2.10.3 Ribbing-side seams. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
2.10.4 Garter stitch-side seams. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
2.10.5 Grafting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
2.11 Knitting with a Circular needle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
2.12 Knitting with Double Pointed Needles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
2.13 Instructions for knitting backwards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
2.14 The Perfect Buttonhole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
2.15 Tips and Tricks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
2.15.1 How to knit with elastic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
2.15.2 Questions and Answers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
3 Learning to Crochet 53
3.1 Right Handed Chain (ch st) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
3.2 Left Handed Chain (ch st) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
3.3 Single Crochet (sc) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
3.4 Half Double Crochet (hdc) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
3.5 Double Crochet (dc) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
3.6 Triple Crochet (tr) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
3.7 Double Triple Crochet (dtr) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
3.8 Slip Stitch (sl st) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
3.9 Variations on Elementary Stitches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
3.9.1 Working Between stitches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
3.9.2 Double chain stitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
3.9.3 Double-faced double crochet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
3.9.4 A double knot stitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
3.10 Joining and securing yarns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
3.11 Shaping Increasing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
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3.12 Shaping Decreasing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
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2 Learning To Knit
2.1 Casting On
Put simply, knitting is making fabric from interlocking loops of yarn. Each loop counts as one stitch. A
stitch is formed when a knitting needle pulls a loop of yarn through another stitch on another needle.
Stitches are worked from one needle to the other. The end result is a pliable, interlocked fabric. Since all
stitches and rows of stitches are linked, the resulting fabric will unravel if just one stitch is cut.
The rst row of any knitting project is the cast-on row. This provides the foundation for the stitches. The
last row, which nishes the loops so they dont unravel, is called the bind-off or cast-off row.
In the following pages, you will learn the basic stitches called knit and purl. Literally hundreds of
patterns can be created by different combinations of knit and purl stitches, the simplest being the garter
stitch pattern. Garter stitch is a knit stitch worked on every row. In garter stitch, the right and wrong sides
of the fabric will look exactly the same, and the fabric will stretch more lengthwise than crosswise.
If you alternate rows of knit and purl stitches, youre doing the stockinette stitch (also known as the
stocking or jersey stitch). This pattern has a right side (the knit stitch side) and will stretch more
crosswise than lengthwise.
Casting on is the rst step in knitting These stitches become the rst row of stitches and one selvage of your
work, usually the bottom or hem.
There are many ways to do this, and each way has different benets depending on the elasticity or rmness
required.
All methods of casting on begin with a slip knot.
To form slip knot for rst stitch, make a loop with yarn; insert needle under one length and draw through
a loop and tighten.
2.1.1 Knitting On
Knitting on uses 2 needles and 1 strand of yarn. Each new stitch is knit and then transferred to left needle.
Very versatile, soft when worked through front loop, rm if worked through the back loops.
Hold needle with slip knot in left hand. Insert right needle into stitch and bring yarn around it as for
knitting (A); draw yarn through to form a new stitch, but do not drop rst loop from left needle(B). Instead
transfer new stitch to left needle and knit into it to form next stitch.
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2.1.2 Cable Cast-on
Cable cast on is formed in the same way as knitting on, except for each new stitch , the needle is inserted
between the two previous stitches. The resulting edge is decorative and elastic, well suited to ribbing and
for edges of socks and hats.
Make slip knot and knit rst stitch on. For each new stitch after that, insert the right needle between 2
stitches; wrap yarn as for knitting(A). Draw through a new stitch and transfer it to left needle(B).
2.1.3 Single Cast on
Single Cast on is done with 1 needle an a single length of yarn. It forms a delicate selvage particularly good
for laces. Easy to do but hard to work off needle evenly for rst row.
Make slip knot on right hand needle. Wrap yarn from ball around the left thumb as shown, grasp end
between palm and back ngers.
Turn thumb so back of it is facing you; insert needle needle into front of the loop formed by twisting the
thumb.
Slip thumb out of loop and pull yarn downward to tighted around needle.
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2.1.4 Double Cast-On Method.
It is called double because it uses two strands of yarn. Its often recommended for rst-time knitters and
produces an elastic edge.
Measure off a length of yarn allowing 1 for each stitch you will cast on. Your pattern instructions will
indicate this number. Make a slip-knot, it will be your rst stitch.
To cast on the second stitch, and all subsequent stitches, hold the needle with the slip-knot in your right
hand. Drape the short end of yarn over the thumb and the yarn from the ball over the index nger. Gently
pull the two ends of yarn apart to tighten the loop. Take care not to tighten it too much. The stitch should
glide easily over the needle. Both strands of yarn should rest in the palm of the left hand, with the last two
ngers holding them down.
Pull the needle downward, then insert the point of the needle up through the loop that is on your thumb.
Move the point of the needle over, then around the index-nger strand of yarn.
Bring the point of the needle back down through the thumb loop. Drop the thumb loop, then pull on the
short end of yarn with your thumb. This will tighten the stitch. You now have two stitches on your needle.
Repeat this process until the desired number of stitches have been cast on.
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Remember not to pull your foundation row stitches too tightly. They should glide easily over the needle
and be elastic.
2.1.5 Looped Cast On
Looped Cast On employes one needle and 2 lenghts of yarn; one yarn forms a foundation, the other is
wrapped around it. Left intact, the edge is very exible. If the foundation yarn is removed, stitches can be
picked up for knitting.
Make slip knot in foundation yarn(light, then casting yarn(dark). Take foundation yarn over thumb, and
casting yarn over index nger; grasp both yarns against palm.
Wrap casting yarn around needle front to back, foundation yarn around needle back to front(yarns should
cross as shown.
Wrap casting yarn around needle again front to back. Pull downward so that yarns are under needle.
Repeat steps 2 and 3.
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2.2 Holding The Yarn And Needles
Knitting uses only two basic stitches - the knit stitch and the purl stitch. It is the variations and combinations
of these two stitches that create all the different stitch patterns which are possible in knitting. First you will
learn the knit stitch.
The knit stitch is one of two fundamental movements in knitting; it forms a at vertical of fabric face.
There are two basic styles of knitting-English and Continental; and the difference between the two is in
how you hold the yarn. In the English method the yarn is held in the right hand. In continental knitting,
the yarn is held in the left hand. Whatever your natural hand-preference, you should be able to master
either method because the nature of knitting is basically ambidextrous. The right hand technique prevails
in English speaking countries. In this approach yarn is drawn around the right needle with the right index
nger. Tension is maintained by wrapping yarn in various ways around the hand. It is helpful to know
continental knitting when you knit with two or more color yarns.
2.2.1 Forming the Knit Stitch/English
Hold needle with cast on stitches in left hand. Wrap the yarn over your index nger, under the middle
and ring ngers and around your pinky. This creates the proper tension in the yarn which is necessary for
creating stitches that are not too loose or too tight.
Holding yarn behind work, Insert the right needle into the rst stitch. Hold it there with your left hand.
With right index nger take the yarn around the right needle from back to front, so that it rests between the
two needles.
Slide the right needle down, then bring the point forward through the stitch, bringing the yarn with it At
same time pushing the stitch on the left needle toward the top. (With time and practice this becomes almost
one movement and will increase your speed.)
Allow the stitch to slide off the left needle. Be careful to slip only the one stitch that was worked off the left
needle. Do not allow any others to slip off. New stitch (loop just made remains on right needle) Repeat the
above steps for each stitch on the left needle, pushing stitches forward on left needle with thumb, index,
and middle ngers, moving stitches back on right needle with the thumb. Notice that at the beginning and
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end of each stitch, the yarn is at the back of the work. At the end of the row, all the new stitches will be on
the right needle, and the left needle will be empty.
It is important to learn good habits early, so they will stay with you. Try to use this method of holding your
work from the very beginning.
Controlling the yarn with the left hand is customary in Eastern countries. The basic action is to scoop yarn
from the left index nger onto the right needle. One method of controlling tension is with the last two
ngers and the index nger. Any method for controlling tension you work out is acceptable. Speed is
the ultimate goal and to achieve this you need to hold needles lightly and minimize all movements. They
should be natural and comfortable for you. If you are straining then you need to revise your techniques.
It is helpful to know continental knitting when you knit with two or more color yarns.
2.2.2 Forming the Knit Stitch/Continental
Hold needle with cast on stitches in right hand. Wrap the yarn over your left hand as shown. This creates
the proper tension in the yarn which is necessary for creating stitches that are not too loose or too tight.
Holding yarn behind work, Insert the right needle into the rst stitch, from left to right.
Twist the right needle and pull tip under the yarn to draw a loop through the stitch. At same time pushing
the stitch on the left needle toward the top. (With time and practice this becomes almost one movement
and will increase your speed.)
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Allow the stitch to slide off the left needle. Be careful to slip only the one stitch that was worked off the left
needle. Do not allow any others to slip off. New stitch (loop just made remains on right needle) Repeat the
above steps for each stitch on the left needle, pushing stitches forward on left needle with thumb, index,
and middle ngers, moving stitches back on right needle with the thumb. Notice that at the beginning and
end of each stitch, the yarn is at the back of the work. At the end of the row, all the new stitches will be on
the right needle, and the left needle will be empty.
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2.3 Learning the Purl Stitch
Knitting uses only two basic stitches - the knit stitch and the purl stitch. It is the variations and combinations
of these two stitches that create all the different stitch patterns which are possible in knitting. Now you are
ready for the purl stitch.
The purl stitch is the reverse of a knit stitch. Its loop structure is a horizontal semicircle whereas the knit
forms a at vertical of fabric face.
In forming the purl stitch, the movements are the reverse of the knit stitch. The needle enters the front of
the stitch from back to front ,and the yarn held in front of the work is cast over needle back to front.
When controlling yarn with the right hand purl stitches tend to be looser than knitted ones, because the
yarn must be cast further than in a knit stitch Tension is maintained by wrapping yarn in various ways
around the hand. It is helpful to know continental knitting when you knit with two or more color yarns.
2.3.1 Forming the Purl Stitch/English
Hold needle with cast on stitches in left hand. Wrap the yarn over your index nger, under the middle
and ring ngers and around your pinky. This creates the proper tension in the yarn which is necessary for
creating stitches that are not too loose or too tight.
Holding yarn in front work, Insert the right needle into the rst stitch back to front(right to left) Hold it there
with your left hand. With right index nger take the yarn backward over the right needle then forward and
over it.
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Draw the loop on right needle backward through the stitch. At same time pushing the stitch on the left
needle toward the top. (With time and practice this becomes almost one movement and will increase your
speed.)
Allow the stitch to slide off the left needle. Be careful to slip only the one stitch that was worked off the left
needle. Do not allow any others to slip off. New stitch (loop just made remains on right needle) Repeat the
above steps for each stitch on the left needle, pushing stitches forward on left needle with thumb, index,
and middle ngers, moving stitches back on right needle with the thumb. Notice that at the beginning and
end of each stitch, the yarn is at the back of the work. At the end of the row, all the new stitches will be on
the right needle, and the left needle will be empty.
It is important to learn good habits early, so they will stay with you. Try to use this method of holding your
work from the very beginning.
2.3.2 Forming the Purl Stitch/Continental
Controlling the yarn with the left hand is customary in Eastern countries. The basic action is to scoop yarn
from the left index nger onto the right needle. One method of controlling tension is with the last two
ngers and the index nger. Any method for controlling tension you work out is acceptable. Speed is
the ultimate goal and to achieve this you need to hold needles lightly and minimize all movements. They
should be natural and comfortable for you. If you are straining then you need to revise your techniques.
To form a purl stitch in Continental style, yarn is held taut with the left index nger while a new stitch is
scooped up with the right needle. This action is facilitated by a forward twist of the wrist to release yarn,
and by anchoring the working stitch with the thumb as the new stitch is drawn.
It is helpful to know continental knitting when you knit with two or more color yarns.
Hold needle with cast on stitches in right hand. Wrap the yarn over your left hand as shown. This creates
the proper tension in the yarn which is necessary for creating stitches that are not too loose or too tight.
Holding yarn in front work, Insert the right needle into the rst stitch, from right to left.
Twist the left wrist so yarn on index nger comes toward you, then push back and down with right needle
to draw a loop back through the stitch. and pull tip under the yarn to draw a loop through the stitch. At
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same time pushing the stitch on the left needle toward the top. (With time and practice this becomes almost
one movement and will increase your speed.)
Allow the stitch to slide off the left needle. Be careful to slip only the one stitch that was worked off the left
needle. Do not allow any others to slip off. New stitch (loop just made remains on right needle) Repeat the
above steps for each stitch on the left needle, pushing stitches forward on left needle with thumb, index,
and middle ngers, moving stitches back on right needle with the thumb. Notice that at the beginning and
end of each stitch, the yarn is at the back of the work. At the end of the row, all the new stitches will be on
the right needle, and the left needle will be empty.
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2.4 Increasing
An increase (inc) is the addition of a stitch. Its main function is for shaping but is also used in combination
with decreases to for lacy patterns. There are four basic increases, yarn over(YO), raised, lifted, and bar
(M1). Casting on is also used for increasing , mainly for buttonhole or for adding multiple stitches at
beginning or end of a row.
2.4.1 Yarn-Over Increase
YO-increase is made by wrapping yarn around the needle between 2 stitches. Because a hole is made this
method is used for laces . The basic techniques is to wrap yarn around the needle once. , to be knit or
purled on the next row. The direction of wrap depends of the type of stitch that precedes and follows the
YO.
YO-before rst stitch. For picot edge, and some laces. Can be done either knitwise or purlwise.
YO-after knit stitch, before purl stitch.
YO-after knit stitch, before knit stitch. For stockinette and lacy stitches.
YO-after knit stitch, before knit stitch. For Garter stitch.
YO-after purl stitch, before knit stitch
YO-after purl stitch, before purl stitch. For reverse stockinette and lace stitches.
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YO-after purl stitch, before purl stitch. For a purl garter stitch.
2.4.2 Raised Increase
Raised Increase is made picking up a horizontal strand between two stitches and working it as if it were a
stitch. There are two ways the strand. If you work in the front, a hole is left beneath, suitable for lace or
decorative stitches. If you work into the back of the strand, the stitch is twisted and the increase is barely
visible.
Insert left needle front to back under the horizontal bar that lies between the two stitches.
On a knit row for a decorative raised increase knit in to the front of the stitch.
On a knit row for an invisible raised stitch knit into the back of the stitch.
On a purl row for a decorative raised increase purl in to the front of the stitch.
On a purl row for an invisible raised stitch purl into the back of the stitch.
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2.4.3 Lifted Increase
Lifted Increase is made by working into the stitch below as well as into the stitch itself. The result is almost
invisible but there is a denite slant to the stitches . It is good to pair increases to each side of a center point.
To pair lifted increases on either side of a center stitch. Work a left increase before the center stitch and a
right increase after it.
For a lifted knit right increase , insert needle in top of loop just below stitch, knit loop and then knit stitch
on needle.
For a lifted knit left increase , insert left needle in top of just completed stitch, pull back gently and knit it.
For a lifted purl right increase , insert needle in top of loop just below stitch, purl loop and then purl stitch
on needle.
For a lifted purl left increase , insert left needle in top of just completed stitch, pull back gently and purl it.
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2.4.4 Bar And Moss Increase
Bar And Moss Increase is made by working into the same stitch twice. For a bar increase, you knit into the
front and the back of the stitch. For a moss increase knit into the front and purl into the back of the stitch.
For a bar increase on a knit row, knit into the front and the back of the same stitch
For a bar increase on a purl row, purl into the front and the back of the same stitch.
For a moss increase on a knit row, knit into the front and purl into the back of the same stitch
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Double lace increase. YO before center stitch and after center stitch.
Double Moss increase: Knit and purl in the stitch just before center, knit center stitch; knit and purl in the
next stitch
Double bar increase: knit into the front and back of stitch just before center, knit center stitch and then knit
into the front and back of the next stitch
Double lifted increase into 1 stitch: knit loop below center stitch; knit into back of center stitch; knit again
into loop below center.
Double lifted increase: In stitch before center, make lifted increase left, knit center stitch, Make a lifted right
increase
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Double raised increase: Knit into back of horizontal bar just before center; knit center stitch; knit into back
of next bar.
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2.5 Decreasing
A decrease (dec) is the reduction of one or more stitches. It is used for shaping but also used in combination
with increasing for bobbles and lace knitting.
there are two basic methods with little difference in their appearance but the slipstictch method pulls less
tightly and is easier to work when tension is tight.
Each method pulls stitches on a denate slant. When working random decreases slant it not important.
However when doing raglan shaping or lace work slant is very important. On the left side of center decrease
slant to the right and on the right side of center decreases slant to the left. On the knit row of stockinette
stitch, you would K1, Sl1 K1 PSSO, work to with 3 stitches of end and k2tog. Generally decreases are done
every other row or every 4th, 6th row ,etc. but if you require more shaping you can decrease every row.
Just watch the slant of your decreases.
Knit Decrease Left Sl1 K1 PSSO (sl1,k1,psso) Slip a stitch knitwise, knit the next stitch.
Insert left needle into the front of the slipped stitch and pull it over the knitted one.
Knit Decrease Right K1 PSSO Knit the next stitch and return it to the left needle.
Pass the next stitch over it. Replace stitch on right needle.
Knit Decrease Left K2togTBLKnit 2 stitches together though the back of both loops.
Knit Decrease Right K2tog. Knit 2 stitches together though the front of both loops.
Purl Decrease Right (sl1,k1,psso) Slip a stitch knitwise, purl the next stitch.
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Insert left needle into the front of the slipped stitch and pull it over the knitted one.
Purl Decrease Left (P1 PSSO). Purl the next stitch and return it to the left needle.
Pass the next stitch over it. Replace stitch on right needle.
Purl Decrease Left (P2togTBL) Purl 2 stitches together though the back of both loops.
Purl Decrease Right (P2tog)Purl 2 stitches together though the front of both loops.
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2.5.1 Double Decreasing
Double Decrease left (K3tog TBL)
Knit 3 stitches together through all back loops.
Double Decrease Left Sl1 K1 PSSO
Slip a stitch knitwise, knit the 2 stitchs together.
Insert left needle into the front of the slipped stitch and pull it over the knitted one.
Double Decrease Right K3tog
Knit 3 stitches together though the front of all loops.
Double Decrease Vertical
Slip 2 stitches to right needle, Knit next stitch, pass the 2 slipped stitches over the knit.
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2.6 Binding Off
Binding off (also called casting off) is the way stitches are removed from the needle so they will not unravel.
Of the various methods the most versatile are the Plain Bind-off and the Suspended Bind-off. It is normally
done on the right side and the stitches are worked as you see them(purl the Purls, knit the knits). The last
three techniques are always god to know.
2.6.1 Plain Bind-off
The simplest most frequently used method. Work 2 stitches at beginning of row. Holding yarn in back,slip
the rst stitch over the 2nd and off the needle. Work the next stitch and do the same. Contine until last
stitch is bound off. Cut a 5-8 inch tail and pull it through the last stitch.
2.6.2 Suspended Bind-off
Similair to the plain bind-off Work 2 stitches at beginning of row. Holding yarn in back,slip the rst stitch
over the 2nd as for plain but keep pulled stitch on left needle Work the next stitch, drop both stitches off the
left needle at the same time. Repeat until 2 stitches remain and k2tog. Cut a 5-8 inch tail and pull it through
the last stitch.
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2.6.3 Ending a bind off row.
Cut a 5-8 inch tail and pull it through the last stitch. Then weave in ends.
This little bit of instruction should at least get you started. To learn more about knitting, please visit your
local retail needlework shop where you can purchase books, publications, supplies and nd out about
classes on knitting!
2.6.4 Plain Bind Off Two Pieces
Plain Bind Off Two Pieces Forms a neat seamless joining. It can be used for two straight edges having and
equal number of stitches, or for shoulder edges that have been shaped by turning.
With right sides together and both pieces held in the left hand, work the rst stitch on each needle simulta-
neously. Work next two stitches together the same way. Slip the rst stitch over the second stitch. Repeat
across row. Ridge will be on wrong side.
2.6.5 Invisible Bind Off
Invisibile Bind Off makes an inconspicuous nish for 1 x 1 ribbing, ideal for a cuff or turtleneck.
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To begin, cut yarn, leaving an end four times the knitting width; thread yarn in a tapestry needle. Insert
tapestry needle knitwise into knit stitch at end of needle drop stitch off. Skip next purl stitch, insert nee-
dle purlwise in the next stitch; draw yarn through, insert needle purlwise in purl stitch at end of needle;
draw yarn through; drop stitch off. Take needle behind the knit stitch an insert it knitwise into next purl
stitch(bring yarn forward between stitches rst) draw yarn through. Repeat across row.
2.6.6 Crocheted Bind Off
Crocheted Bind Off the stitches are worked off in a chain stitch. The results are a rm and decorative edging
appropriate for a blanket
Holding crochet hook in your hand as if it were a needle, insert it knitwise in rst stitch, take yarn around
hook. Draw through a loop and let rst stitch drop of needle, Draw a loop through next stitch in same
manner. Draw q loop through 2 loop on hook . Repeat to end.
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2.7 Cables
Crossing stitches is a way to produce certain decorative effects such as braid. Basket weave. Or honeycomb
pattern. The stitches appear to be twisted because they are pulled diagonally right or left The left twist
direction is determined by the way the stitches are worked-to the front or the back. To work two stitches,
you work the second stitch on the left and then you work the rst. Three stitches can also be exchanged in
this manner, working the third stitch ., then the rst and the second. Crossing more than three stitches is
called cabling. This technique requires a double pointed or cable needle to hold the rst stitches out of the
way until worked. The holding needle should be the same size or smaller than the working needle. The
look of a cable is varied by the number of stitches exchanged the number of rows between twists and the
direction of twist.. If stitches held to front a cable twist to the left, if held in back a cable twist to the right.
Cross 2 stitches right, (2RK); Knit into front of second stitch on left needle but do not drop stitch off, Knit
into rst stitch , drop off both.
Cross 2 stitches left, (2LK); Knit into back of second stitch on left needle but do not drop stitch off, Knit into
the back of rst stitch , drop off both.
Cross 2 stitches right, (2RP); Purl into front of second stitch on left needle but do not drop stitch off, Purl
into front rst stitch , drop off both.
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Cross 2 stitches left, (2LP); Purl into front of second stitch on left needle pass it over the rst stitch and off
neede. Purl into the front of rst stitch , drop off needle.
Cross through 2 stitches right(2RK). Knit 2 stitches together through the front, knit the rst stitch again,
drop both of needle.
Cross through 2 stitches right(2LK). Knit 2 stitches together through the back, knit the rst stitch again
through the front, drop both of needle.
Cross through 2 stitches right(2RP). Purl 2 stitches together through the front, Purl the rst stitch again,
drop both of needle.
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Cross through 2 stitches right(2LP). Purl 2 stitches together through the front, Purl the rst stitch again
through the back, drop both of needle.
Twisted cable right. Slip the cable stitches onto a cable needle, hold at back, knit stitches from left needle,
knit from cable holder, continue in pattern.
Twisted cable left. Slip the cable stitches onto a cable needle, hold at front, knit stitches from left needle,
knit from cable holder, continue in pattern.
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2.8 Correcting Errors
Sometimes it is necessary to correct a mistake in your knitting. A crochet hook is a necessary tool for this.
You may have to drop a stitch several rows down in order to correct an error.
To retrieve a run in stockinette, insert a crochet hook front to back, hook it over the horizontal bar and draw
through a loop.
To retrieve a run in garter, insert a crochet hook front to back, in each knit loop hook it over the horizontal
bar and draw through a loop.
For a purl stitch in garter stitch, insert a crochet hook back to front, in each purl loop hook it over the
horizontal bar and draw through a loop.
To retrieve a dropped knit stitch, insert the right needle through the loop, and under the strand.
Insert left needle from front to back, and lift stitch gently over strand. The strand thus becomes a stitch
facing the wrong way. Slip needle into loop and slip stitch to correct position for knitting.
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To retrieve a dropped purl stitch, insert the right needle through the loop, and under the strand.
Insert left needle from front to back, and lift stitch gently over strand. The strand thus becomes a stitch
facing the wrong way. Slip needle into loop and slip stitch to correct position for purling.
To correct an error several rows down, Mark the row error is in and then unravel the stitches to within
1 row of error, carefully unravel the remaining row and correct mistake. When picking up stitches after
unraveling use a smaller needle, a size 1 or 2 works well. There is no pull on stitches to further unravel.
To learn more about knitting, please visit your local retail needlework shop where you can purchase books,
publications, supplies and nd out about classes on knitting!
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2.9 Picking up Stitches
Picking up stitches permits you to add a collar, or nish a neck, or in some cases sleeves, without having to
sew. Before picking up stitches mark you work so you can gure out an even distribution of stitches. There
a number of ways to pick up stitches. You should use the method most comfortable for you.
Hold work in left hand, knit side facing. Insert right needle under the edge stitch, take yarn around needle
as to knit. Bring stitch through to right side.
Work proceeds from right to left, rst row is knit on wrong side.
Hold yarn, needle and work in left hand, knit side facing.
Insert hook under stitch, pull through a loop, place on needle, pull it snug.
Work proceeds from left to right, rst row is knit on right side.
Hold yarn, needle and work in right hand, wrong side facing.
Insert hook under stitch, pull through a loop, place on needle, pull it snug. Work proceeds from right to
left, rst row is knit on right side.
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2.10 Assembling a Garment
The joining of knitted sections edge to edge makes for a smooth bulk less seam that is nearly invisible.
There are 2 ways to do this: weaving and grafting.
2.10.1 Stockinette-side seams.
Lay sections right side up corresponding stitches aligned, Attach yarn at right end. Insert needle under
next horizontal loop adjacent to edge
stitch on one section, then under corresponding loop on other.
2.10.2 Stockinette-shoulder seams.
Lay sections right side up corresponding stitches aligned, Attach yarn at right end. Insert needle under
next knit stitch adjacent to bindoff stitch on one section, then under corresponding stitch on other.
2.10.3 Ribbing-side seams.
Lay sections right side up corresponding stitches aligned, Attach yarn at right end. Bring needle up through
centers of next 2 corresponding stitchs, then down through centers of next 2 stitches.
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2.10.4 Garter stitch-side seams.
Lay sections right side up corresponding stitches aligned, Attach yarn at right end.
Bring needle up through lower loop on one edge then down through corresponding upper loop on the
other edge.
2.10.5 Grafting
Grafting, also called the kitchener stitch, is weaving the stitches together directly from the needles. The
seam is smooth and elastic.
To graft, both edges must have the same number of stitches.
It is used for the toes of a sock and for some shoulder seams.
There are 2 ways to position work for grafting,
1) Hold both needles in left hand with wrong sides together.
2) Lay two sections face up on a at surface. Use a tapestry needle to weave, removing stitches as com-
pleted.
Stockinette: To start, bring the needle purlwise through bottom and top end stitches; re-insert knitwise in
bottom stitch, purlwise through next stitch on needle.
*Insert needle knitwise in top stitch where thread emerges, purlwise through next stitch on needle. Insert
needle knitwise through bottom stitch where thread emerges, purlwise through next stitch on needle.*
Garter Stitch: To start, bring the needle purlwise through bottom and top end stitches; insert knitwise in
next top stitch, purlwise through next stitch on needle.
*Insert needle knitwise in bottom stitch where thread emerges, purlwise through next stitch on needle. In-
sert needle purlwise through top stitch where thread emerges, then knitwise through next stitch on needle.*
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2.11 Knitting with a Circular needle
To knit a tubular fabric, join cast on stitches, being very careful not to twist the stitches on needle. Place a
marker between the 1st and last stitches. Knit around until you are back at the marker. That is your rst
round. Work in rounds until the desired length.
To knit a at fabric work the circular needle back and forth as if it were straight needles.
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2.12 Knitting with Double Pointed Needles
To knit a tube with 4 (or 5) dp needles cast on 1/3(or 1/4) total number of stitches on each or 3 (or 4)
needles. As you complete one needle, place the next one parallel and directly above it, with the point a
little bit forward of the lower one.
Lay the three needles in a triangle (or 4 needles in a square), with the bottom needles of all stitches facing
the center.
Using the 4th (or 5th) needle, knit into the rst cast-on stitch, thus closing the triangle (or square). Pull extra
rmly on the yarn for this stitch so there will not be a gap. When you have knitted all the stitches of the
rst needle, use that one to for the working needle, placing it behind the others as you knit.
Knit each section of the circle until you reach the beginning. That is 1 round. A marker is helpful but it
cannot be used at the end of a needle. It has to be between 2 stitches. I suggest that you place the rst 2 cast
on on the 3rd needle so you can use a marker.
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To knit a at item, started at the center, Crochet a chain, having one loop for each stitch, join in a ring.
Transfer the loop to one dp needle, then pick up and knit the correct number of stitches on each needle.
To knit a square from the center out, crochet 8 chains, join in a ring and pick up 2 stitches on each of 4
needles. On the rst round increase 1 stitch between each 2 -stitch group. on the next and subsequent
rounds increase 2 stitches at the center of eeach section. A Triangle is worked in the sme way, but with 6
stitches in 3 sections. A circle is made simarily but wuth 10 stitches on 5 needles: 1 increase is made in each
section every round, moving its location 1 stitch forward each round.
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2.13 Instructions for knitting backwards
Knit a row. Instead of turning to purl, leave the needle holding the knitting on the right.
Hold yarn in your right hand.
Insert left-hand needle into stitch from row you just nished, inserting needle from the front (left) toward
the back (right).
The left-hand needle will be behind the right-hand needle.
To knit stitch, bring yarn over left-hand needle (lifting yarn up and over the top of the needle)
Back left-hand needle out of stitch from previous row, being very careful not to drop newly created stitch.
Slide stitch from previous row off right-hand needle.
Voila! Youve just knitted a stitch backwards. Continue across the row and you will never have to purl
again!
Note: It will take a while before your gauge for knitting backwards is the same as your gauge for knitting
forwards.
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2.14 The Perfect Buttonhole
1 Row Buttonhole
1. Work 3 stitches(or desired number stitches for placement of button hole)
2. Bring Yarn to front of work as if to purl.
3. Slip 1 stitch from left needle to right needle.
4. Return yarn to back as if to knit.
5. Drop yarn. You will not use yarn again until step 9.
6. Bind of 2 stitches without working them.(or desired number of stitches for size of buttonhole) To do
this, pass the 1st slipped on right hand needle over the 1st stitch on left needle etc.
7. Slip stitch from right needle to left needle.
8. Turn your work as if you were going to do a short row or turn the heel of a sock.
9. Cast on 3 stitches if you have done a 2 stitch buttonhole. (Always cast on 1 more stitch than bound
off.)
10. Turn work
11. Slip 1st stitch from right needle to left needle.
12. Knit these 2 stitches together and nish your row.
13. This completes the buttonhole in one row.
It makes a very neat and tight buttonhole.
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2.15 Tips and Tricks
Are you confused by yarn weights and gauges? Here are some simple rules.
Table 1:
Weight Stitches Inches Needle Size
Fingering Weight 28 sts 4 inches 1-3
Sport Weight 24 sts 4 inches 3-5
DK or Double Knit Weight 20 sts 4 inches 4-6
Worsted Weight 24 sts 4 inches 5-7
Worsted Weight 20 sts 4 inches 6-8
Bulky Weight 16 sts 4 inches 10-13
Always check the gauge listed on the yarn against the gauge required for your pattern to make sure you
are buying the right yarn.
Be sure that you know, if your instructions were written in America or in Europe! There IS a difference.
Particularly in the needles. American needles go from 1 - 15. The larger the number the larger the needle.
English needles go from15-1. The larger the number the smaller the needle. If you do not have a conversion
chart, remember that a 7 is a 7 in both American and English. A little guring will give you the correct size.
It takes X amount of stitches to make an inch
It takes Y amount of inches to cover your body
x times y divided by 2 = the amount of stitches you cast on.
.....** plus a little more for ease**
If you tend to cast on too tight, try using a larger needle or you can hold two needles together while casting
on.
Keep unwanted patterns from forming when using hand dyed yarns. Makers of hand dyed yarns recom-
mend that you always work from two balls of yarn and alternate every other row.
The same technique works very well if you nd yourself having to use different dyelots. Before you run
out of one lot, start stranding in the new dyelot and you will never see the difference. The transition will
be gradual.
For that cuddly wrap-around scarf, use a #17 needle and work the Mistake Rib in thick, textured yarn.
Quick and sensational.
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2.15.1 How to knit with elastic
Kimberly Davis of Rainbow Elastic recommends a k1p1 ribbing. DO NOT cast on with the elastic but add
it to the rst row. Drop the elastic to the oor and unwind 1 or 2 yards (you will want to feel a slight pull.)
Wrap the yarn and elastic around your index nger and knit your ribbing as usual. Keep a tension on your
elastic, but dont over stretch. When the ribbing is the size you desire, cut the elastic and tie it around your
knitting yarn. Dont forget that the most important place for knitting elastic is in your sleeve cuffs! If you
dont nd the exact color of elastic to match your yarn, we recommend going a shade lighter.
Read your label carefully!
It tells you how your garment will perform and how it should be treated. Needle recommendation not only
gives you the gauge, but will lead to the best performance by the yarn. It is, for instance, very important
NOT to exceed the recommended needle size when knitting with Chenille as it will stretch. Yarns will not
hold their shape as well when knitted too loose.
Put your test swatch to good use.
Measure it well in all directions and wash it the way you would wash your nished garment. Measure again
carefully to compare to the original. You now know how it will look after washing, without jeopardizing
your whole garment.
Save all your leftovers. Sort them by color families. Some of the most beautiful and original garments can
be created. All you need is a basic pattern and a little magination to combine color, texture and design. It
doesnt even have to be all the same weight. A good start is to use an 8 or 9 needle and then double some
of the thinner yarns, reduce the number of stitches in a section for a bulky yarn and then increase back to
original for regular weight. Double strand two different textures and even colors to create your own effect.
Thats what the designers do.
Dont forget that you can combine yarns to get different weights. If you need a sport weight yarn... combine
two ngering yarns. If you need a worsted weight yarn.... combine two sport yarns. If you need a bulky
yarn... combine two worsted weight yarns. Always check your gauge, but many times this is a great way
to use up extra yarns you have.
Count your rows!
Use one of the handy counters for the job or and you will never mismatch pieces. Mark every 10th row
with a gold safety pin and your pieces will always be the same length. Also a good way to keep track of
increases.
Although all of our yarn labels and patterns recommend particular needle sizes and gauges, not all knitters
will be able to obtain the measurements, as given.
We cannot stress strongly enough, the concept and importance of gauge. Because each knitter works
projects at their own tension, each knitters piece, of the same pattern, will be slightly different. We think
this is one of the elements that keeps knitting interesting.
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It is imperative that you work a gauge swatch, in the prescribed stitch, of your chosen pattern. If your
gauge is not as given in the pattern, experiment by increasing or decreasing the needle size, until your
guage matches the one given in the pattern.
Some knitters never get the correct gauge. They simply make a judgement call, and work the size they
think will t them most suitably.
How do you choose a size?
Do you consciously decide what size pullover you are going to knit?
Or do you always make a size medium?
Is your husband a standard size large and that is what you always knit him?
The size of the sweater you choose to knit, is one of the most important decisions you will make for each
knitting project.
Gone are the days of choosing a size by translating chest size into a sweater size!
The easiest rule of thumb, when choosing the size you are going to knit, is to measure the chest of a favorite
tting sweater, in a similar weight yarn and stitch, and choose the size closest in measurement on the
pattern.
Always refer to the nished measurements section of the pattern, not the size description. Some yarn
companys size small nishes at 32 others nish at 40 Also, take into account the yarn you will be knitting
with, the stitch(es), and the thickness of the fabric you are creating, when choosing a size.
For example, a bulky Montera cabled sweater should have an easier, looser t than a nely knit Inca Alpaca
sweater, that will be worn under a jacket. Take into account the undergarments you will be wearing.
Will you wear a turtleneck, a tted shirt, another sweater, or nothing? All of these factors affect the t of
the nished garment.
Always pick up EVERY stitch when picking up necklines, then decrease down to the number of stitches
required by the pattern in your rst row. A good rule of thumb is to pick up every stitch and the decrease
by 1/3
Another method for prevent holes when picking up around a neckline, is to twist every stitch on the rst
row. This tightens the picked up stitch and will give a smooth even look to the neck.
When measuring for gauge, I like to measure the entire width of my swatch, and divide that number into
the amount of stitches. Be sure to take it OFF the needles before measuring. The result will be the number
of stitches per inch.
When knitting an item for a gift, be sure and enclose the yarn label so the new owner will know how to
care for the garment, and also enclose your knitted swatch. Then they have a sample of the yarnfor repairs
if necessary.
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When knitting garments for children, try knitting the sleeves from the shoulder down. When the child has
a growing spurt, you can unravel the cuff and knit the sleeve longer.
If you are in a crunch and do not have any stitch markers, use a small scrap of different colored yarn from
your yarn bin and knot a small loop. The loop can travel on your needle between stitches like a marker.
Caution: do not use a thick yarn because it might leave an indention between your stitches. Some people
like to use the bone rings as markers, but this can be as big a problem as using a think yarn.
The most accurate method of measuring wide pieces (when the width of your knitting is more than the
length of one needle), is to work halfway across a row, lay the work at on a table and spread the sts evenly
across the 2 needles.
Always measure the length at the center of your work, never at side edges which are usually looser. Place a
marker at the center of the last row before you start decreasing for an armhole shaping. This makes it easier
to measure the armhole length when you come to it.
Store small chunks of Irish Spring bath soap with your wool to ward off hungry moths.
Leave shoulder stitches on needles or stitch holders instead of binding off. When back and front are com-
pleted, knit together and bind off at shoulder seam. Seam is smooth and at. This is also called the 3 needle
method.
When joining a new skein of yarn, knit 3 stitches using both the end of the old skein and the beginning of
the new skein. Drop old skein, and continue with new skein.
No more musty sweaters!
Sweaters can take forever to dry lying on a towel. Just take a standard box fan, use four stadium cups to
make legs and create a at table with the fan blowing up. Put the sweater and towel (not dripping wet) on
the fan set on low. It should be dry in a few hours.
Grafting (weaving) in pattern: If you need to graft in pattern, and are having trouble following the path of
the yarn, try working a swatch in pattern. When you come to the row to be grafted, work it with a strongly
contrasting color, then work a few more rows in the main color. Use the swatch as a guide for grafting your
project. This is particularly useful when you need to lengthen or shorten something, or correct a mistake
without having to rip back to it.
Sweater repair: When youre making a sweater, be sure to save some of the yarn for possible repairs. One
way to keep it with the sweater, and more likely to match if its needed is to weave it into a seam, so
that its washed along with the sweater. If you cant nd match the color in knitting yarn, try needlepoint
yarn, which comes in a wide range of shades. While its thinner and usually more rmly spun, you can
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use several strands to match the weight, and the texture difference is less likely to show than a poor color
match. If the sweater gets washed, its a good idea to wash the yarn before using it.
Twisted cord: Recently when I needed to make a length of twisted cord for a project, Put a screw-in hook in
a little hand drill instead of a drill bit. Guesstimate the amount of yarn youll need (each strand should be
approximately 1 1/2; times the nished length) and fasten the ends so you have a loop at each end; hook the
far end to something solid, and slip the near end over the hook in the drill. Crank until you have enough
twist [test by letting a short length twist back on itself to see if you like the results - keep on cranking if its
not enough], keeping tension on the yarn. Grab the middle of the yarn - this is the point where its nice to
have help, especially if halfway is farther than you can reach - fold in half, bring both ends together and let
it twist back on itself. Even up the twist, knot and trim the ends.
Winding a center pull ball of yarn: First wind about a dozen or so wraps around widely spread ngers. Use
this as the foundation for your ball, always keeping the end of the tuft sticking out of the ball. Hold the tuft
between your thumb and index nger and wind around the thumb and nger for several wraps, then turn
and wind across the rst wraps, keeping the tuft inside your ngers. Continue to wrap and turn, wrapping
over more ngers as the ball grows. When you come to the end of the skein, either tuck the loose end under
the last few wraps or tie it around them in a single knot. This method gives you a ball that wont roll away
and unwind if you drop it - its also easier to pull from when its in a knitting bag.
Binding off in purl: When nishing a piece of garter stitch knitting, such as a border or buttonband, binding
off in purl from the right side makes a very tidy nish. An easy way to do this is as follows: purl the rst
st, place it back on the left needle, *p2tog, place resulting stitch back on left needle, rep from * until all sts
have been worked, fasten off.
Remember: Perfection is for machines! We are people and make mistakes, making each garment uniquely
our own.
Stitches in colorwork will not always look perfect due to stranding, joining, knitting-in, etc.
No one is going to scrutinize your work with a microscope and neither should you! Relax and enjoy!
Chained edge on garter stitch:
For a neat edge in garter stitch, complete row, turn work, leaving yarn in front; slip rst st purlwise, then
take yarn to back between the tips of the needles, knit across row. Repeat for every row.
Recycling previously knitted yarn: After the yarn has been ripped out and wound into skeins (you can
wind it around a box, or a chairback if you dont have a niddy noddy), tie the skeins in 3 or 4 places to
keep it from tangling. Wash and rinse the skeins. If youre not sure of the ber content, its best to treat
them gently, keeping agitation and temperature changes to a minimum. Spin or blot out as much excess
moisture as possible, then hang the skeins in an area with good air circulation. If you want to add a little
weight to help straighten the yarn, a plastic hanger (no need to worry about rust!) is often enough weight
for a small skein, or hang a bit more weight on the hanger. Too much weight will overstretch the yarn,
which can throw your gauge off later. When the skeins are dry, see below to wind it into center pull balls!
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Knitting Ends In:
When changing colors, insert needle into next stitch to be knitted in the new color, take the ends of the old
color and new color, pass them over the strand youre about to knit with, and then knit with that strand.
When knitting the next stitch, pass the two ends over the new strand again.
Repeat this every stitch or two until youve knit in about 3 of the ends.
Then you can just cut off the remaining ends later (but dont cut them ush with the fabric; leave a little bit
sticking out on the wrong side).
Intarsia says:
1) I dont recommend using bobbins. Use either loose ends (no longer than 3 yards or so) and/or small
balls. No matter what you do, occasional de-tangling is necessary but its easier to pull ends through than
untangle bobbins that like to lock together.
2) When adding a new color, knit the rst stitch with that color (leaving a 3-5 tail), then pass both the old
color strand and tail over the new strand to lock them in place. Knit the next stitch, then give the strands a
tug to tighten up the stitches. You can proceed to knit in the tail if the work permits or leave it to weave in
later.
3) Its very important to cross the strands over each other when dropping one color and switching to an-
other. This prevents holes. What I do is to put my needle into the next stitch where the new color is going,
drop my old color, and make sure its laying over the strand Im about to pick-up. Then as I nish knitting
the stitch, the new strand catches up the dropped strand. Its helpful to give both strands a tug and make
sure the stitches involved in the join arent loose.
4) Sometimes no matter how careful you are, stitches (especially at the joins) will look distorted or loose.
This can usually be remedied by taking a cable needle or other blunt needle and playing with the stitch on
the right side until it looks better. Pulling the knit-in end on the wrong side helps too. As long as the stitch
is rmly in place, if its a little distorted, dont worry about it.
5) Knit-in or weave in the ends? If the piece is very busy, with small areas of colors or stripes, knitting-in
the ends works - and is a great time-saver!
However, if large areas of color are involved, the distortion caused by knitting-in will probably detract from
the design. It that case, leaving 3-5 ends and weaving them in later will be necessary.
Work a pattern section or, say, one-third of the piece, and then weave the ends in for that portion. Its much
better than doing it all at once!
Fair Isle:
Stretch those stitches as you strand! Preventing puckering is the most difcult aspect of Fair Isle knitting.
If youre working in the round, make sure your wire is long enough so you can stretch the stitches as you
go.
Knit, Stretch, Strand:
Strand no more than 3 stitches, keeping in mind that the strand should be moderately tense - not too tight,
not too loose.
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When you complete your garment, and have put together...run a length of the yarn, up each side of the
inside seams. This will mean that this extra will get washed at the same time as the garment and therefore
will be the same color. Then if you need it for repair you have it.
I suggest you always keep a diary of your knitting projects. Take a picture. Write on a sheet of paper, a 3 x
5..whatever your choice... the needle size, the yarn used, any problems, a copy of the pattern. Then when
someone loves it and you need to repeat the project, all information is at your ngertips. I also always put
in a label with the care and washing instructions.
Needles are always all over the place. Particularly those of us with multiple projects going. Rather than
to be fastidious about returning the needles to their proper cases each and every time...I put all of the not
being used needles into a popcorn can (those big jobbers you get at Christmas time) and then once a week,
I return them to their cases.
For buttonhole bindings, when the yarn is too heavy: You can either split out a ply or two for this or head
to the DMC oss drawers, and match. With 1200 colors you cant go wrong.
For repairs in your sweaters: Use the invisible thread and you can rebuild what is broken or torn. Not easy
to work with but it surely is effective.On older garments, afghans or the like. Where you can feel them
getting dry and brittle. Use hair rinse in the rinse water or if it is seriously dry, dump in some glycerin
which you can get at the local pharmacy.
Use your yarn to sew on your buttonholes. Loop it in there, cross it over, and tie it on the back. Big time
saver and it looks great!
When stringing beads for a project use a dental oss threader (available at drugstores). Put yarn through
the loop. The tip of the threader is rm enough and small enough to string any size bead.
We are coming up upon the season where we knit for others and as such...we nd they have a tendency
to lose the wrappers which have washing instructions. Why not try writing out the washing/drying
instructions on a piece of interfacing with a permanent mark. then sandwich this interfacing between two
sheets of fusible interfacing and sew it inside the sweater somewhere. I do wash the label a couple of times
to make sure it does not run.
For binding off at the neck: Increase your needle size by three sizes and bind off tightly. The tight binding
makes the gauge more even, and the bigger needles keeps the neck size loose enough to t.
For garments that have a predisposition to stretching (cottons, silks, etc.), use a needle for the ribbing that is
three sizes smaller than the body needle.When casting on a large number of stitches, especially on circular
needles, slip on a counter ringer every ten or twenty stitches. It will help when you count for the total as
you can count by tens, or twenties instead of every blessed stitch over and over. And! All you have to do is
remove them when they are no longer needed on the next round.
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Some Terms.....PLY:
Lets clear up a term that seems to confuse many knitters-PLY! It cannot be said often enough that it isnt
the number of plies that determines the size or weight of the yarn: a lot of baby yarns are three ply and a
lot of bulks are two ply.
What is PLY?
A ply is a single strand of spun yarn. It can be twisted tightly or loosely. Yarn is made up of varying
numbers or amounts of plies. These are usually twisted in the opposite direction of the individual strands
to correct its natural tendency to slant as it is worked. This is also called biasing.
Weight
When discussing yarns, it is more precise to refer to weight rather than ply. Weight indicates the thickness of
a yarn, while the number of plies tells only how many strands are twisted together and does NOT indicate
the thickness.
The usual yarn weights, and the ones you will hear most often are: Fingering, Sport, Worsted, Bulky and
Extra Bulky or Chunky.
Fingering weight many times is called baby yarn or sock yarn the DK weight It usually is a sport weight,
but, slightly above sport and slightly below worsted.
For you old timers, we had one called afghan weight that is like many of the current DKs.
It is most interesting to compare the yarns, supposedly of the same size. One can be super soft, because of
how the plies were all twisted together, where another may be much rmer, and almost stiff.
Novelty yarns come about from the plying of many different types of yarn to make one yarn. Boucle comes
about by allowing one of the plies to form loops around one of the plies, and the third one may hold it all
together.
Try new yarns.
Double Knitting....
The term double knitting is a little confusing for most knitters. There are at least three uses of the term,
and each one means something different.
Double knitting is a British term for a yarn usually knitted at a gauge of 6st/8 rows to an inch on #4 needles-
roughly a sport weight yarn.
Double knitting can also refer to a knitting technique that makes a tubular fabric on two needles. An ex-
cellent book on this technique is Beverly Royces NOTES ON DOUBLE KNITTING published by School-
house Press.
A third type of double knitting is done in two colors, and a patterned design. It makes a double sided, or
reversible fabric.
2.15.2 Questions and Answers
What are the advantages and disadvantages of pure wool versus acrylic yarn?
The advantages and disadvantages of pure wool are:
It is warmer than acrylic.
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It is less likely to pill than an acrylic, though the more expensive acrylics.
Wools are less likely to pill.
It will last longer.
It keeps it shape better
It generally repells stains and spills.
Some wools can be machine washed on a gentle cycle, but most if not all have to be dried at.
Some wools are itchy but some wools, especially the Merino blends, are very soft.
What about allergies?
As wool is composed of the same protiens as human hair and ngernails, it is unlikely that one is allergic.
It may be the dyes of chemicals used in the processing but not the wool.
The advantages and disadvantages of acrylic yarn are:
It is generally cheaper then wool.
It is moth proof .
Generally, it can be machine washed and machine dried, but read the ball band rst!
It is mainly non-allergenic
It does have a tendency to pill.
It stains rather easily, particulary grease or oil stains.
It does not breathe, so it is not nearly as warm as wool
It does not repel moisture.
You obviously have to select the yarn for the application. In general, buy the best yarn that you can afford.
Most good yarn stores do have a lay-away program, 1 or 2 skeins at a time is generally not a shock to the
budget. Given the amount of time you put into a project, you want it to last.
Some people nd that a wool/acrylic mixture is a good compromise. Some wool/acrylic mixtures can be
machine washed and machine dried. Read the label!
I have unraveled a sweater and the yarn in kinked. How can I straighten it?
Take a wire coat hanger and form it into a square.
Wind your yarn onto the coat hanger, spreading it out as much as possible. Hang it in a shower stall and
run hot water to ll the stall with steam.
The idea is to steam the yarn, not to wash it!
You can see the crinkles dropping out of it.
When it looks straight remove from the shower and rewind it.
Do not leave it on the hanger, incase the hanger goes rusty.
Another method is to skein the yarn on a swift of even the back of a chair and put it on the glass rack of your
dish washer during the steam(or drying) cycle. The steam from that will generally unkink it. Remember
the longer the yarn has been knit, the more difcult to unkink.
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What if I am running out of yarn before I am nished my project? Is there anyway to get more yarn of the same dye
lot as I have?
The rst thing is to try the store where you bought it. A good yarn store will nd it for you if at all possible.
You can use yarn of the same colour but a different dye lot, and use this on the ribbing or the collar.
It is far better to use an odd dyelot on the ribbings, as the chnge of stitch and needle size minimizes the
color difference.
You can also cut off the bands, pick up the stitches and knit the bands in a different dyelot or even a
contrasting color.
That is the avenue of last resort.
You can even use the different dye lot on separate pieces of the garment, (such as sleeves) as long as there
is a visual break such as a seam.
Check though that the new dye lot is close to the old one.
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Table 2: Knitting Abbreviations
Abbreviation Meaning
approx approximately
beg begin(ning)
BO bind off
CC contrasting color
cm centimeter(s)
cn cable needle
co cast on/cast off
cont continue(ing)
dec decrease(ing)
dp/dpn double pointed needles(s)
foll follow(s)(ing)
garter knit all rows
g gram(s)
inc increase(ing)
k knit
kb knit in back of stitch
k1, s1, psso knit one, slip one, pass slipped stitch over
k2tog knit 2 together
k2tog tbl knit 2 together through back loop
Kinc K st reach into loop 2 rows below and K into st.
LH left-hand
mmeter(s) mmmillimeter(s)
MC main/master color
M1 make one
ndl(s) knitting needl(es)
oz ounce(s)
p purl
p2tog purl 2 together
p2tog tbl purl 2 together through back loop
pat pattern
pm place marker
psso pass slip stitch over
rem remaining
rep repeat
rev St st reverse stockinette stitch
RH right hand
RS right side
rnd round
SKP slip1, knit 1, pass slip stitch(es) over
SK2P slip 1 knit 2 stitches together, pass slip stitch(es) over
sl slip
sl st slip stitch
sl1,k1,psso slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped st over
SSK slip 1, slip 1, knit 2 together
st(s) stitch(es)
St st/SS stockinette stitch, stocking stitch
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Table 3: Knitting Abbreviations (cont.)
Abbreviation Meaning
tbl through back loop(s)
tog together
WS wrong side
wyib with yarn in back
wyif with yarn in front
yd yard(s)
yfon yarn forward over needle
yfrn yarn forward and round needle
yo yarn over
yon yarn over needle
yrn yarn round needle
repeat instructions following or between asterisk as indicated
] repeat instructions inside brackets as indicated
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3 Learning to Crochet
Crocheting can be done with any yarn or thread that is used for knitting. Just be sure that the thread and the
hook size are compatabile. Knitting is much more versitle but crocheting is beginning to make a denate
fashion statement.
Crocheting is a popular pastime, producing itemsthat are functional,economical, fashionable and fun to
make. The patterns are much more interesting and expiring than in previous times. As with any art there
are those who prefer knitting or crocheting. What ever your choice the excitement of bers and colors are
awesome. For all these reasons and more, we think you will enjoy learning the art of crocheting.
Crochet hooks are made in many sizes and materials. The steel crochet hooks , used for ne thread and
doilies are sized from 00 to 16. The higher the number the smaller the hook. Then you have the yarn hooks.
They start at a B and got up to a Q. The higher the letter the larger the hook.
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3.1 Right Handed Chain (ch st)
All crochet stitches are formations of interlocking loops. The simplest and the beginning is the chain. There
are 2 ways to hold the hook. Either is correct, you need to use what is more comfortable. As with knitting
tension is all important. Hold the yarn any way that is comfortable and maintains tension of the yarn.
Right Handed Crochet:
#1. Hold as if hook were a knife,
#2. Hold as if hook were a pencil,
The chain stitch is the rst row of every crochet project. It should be loose so that the hook can be inserted
easuly for the second row.
To start a chain, make a slip knot. Insert hook right to left. Pulling on both ends, draw in loop to hook.
Holding the slip knot between thumb and middle nger (I prefer my idex nger.), draw yarn through to
make a nother loop. Continue in this matter to do the base chain.
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3.2 Left Handed Chain (ch st)
All crochet stitches are formations of interlocking loops. The simplest and the beginning is the chain. There
are 2 ways to hold the hook. Either is correct, you need to use what is more comfortable. As with knitting
tension is all important. Hold the yarn any way that is comfortable and maintains tension of the yarn.
Left Handed crochet is just the opposite.
#1. Hold as if hook were a knife,
#2. Hold as if hook were a pencil,
The chain stitch is the rst row of every crochet project. It should be loose so that the hook can be inserted
easuly for the second row.
To start a chain., make a slip knot. Insert hook right to left. Pulling on both ends, draw in loop to hook.
Holding the slip knot between thumb and middle nger(I prefer my idex nger.), draw yarn through to
make a nother loop. Continue in this matter to do the base chain.
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3.3 Single Crochet (sc)
The single crochet stitch is the shortest of the basic stitches. It makes a rm at fabric.
Insert hook in 2nd chain from hook. Catch Yarn, A, and draw a loop through the loop.(2 loops on hook),
Yarn over hook and pull through both loops on hook to complete stitch. Work a single in each chain across
row. After last stitch chain 1, turn and begin 2nd row.
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3.4 Half Double Crochet (hdc)
The half double crochet stitch is slightly taller than the single. It has a pronunced ridge in its fabric.
YO and insert hook in 3rd chain from hook. Catch Yarn, A, and draw a loop through the loop.(3 loops on
hook), Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops loops on hook to complete stitch. Work a half double across
row in each chain across row. After last stitch chain 2, turn and begin 2nd row.
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3.5 Double Crochet (dc)
The double crochet stitch twice the height of the single and less compact. It forms the basis of many pattern
stitches.
YO and insert hook in 4th chain from hook. Catch Yarn, A, and draw a loop through the chain.(3 loops on
hook), Yarn over and pull through 2 loops, Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook to complete stitch.
Work a double across row in each chain across row. After last stitch chain 3, turn and begin 2nd row.
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3.6 Triple Crochet (tr)
The triple crochet stitch more open than the double. It is used less frequently.
YO twice and insert hook in 5th chain from hook. Catch Yarn, A, and draw a loop through the chain.(4
loops on hook), Yarn over and pull through 2 loops, Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, Yarn over
and pull through 2 loops on hook to complete stitch. Work a triplr across row in each chain across row.
After last stitch chain 4, turn and begin 2nd row.
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3.7 Double Triple Crochet (dtr)
The double triple crochet stitch . Essentially the same as the triple but with one more YO. You can make it
higher by adding another YO and another pull through 2 loops on hook, YO three times, and insert hook
in 6th chain from hook. Catch Yarn, A, and draw a loop through the chain.(5 loops on hook), Yarn over and
pull through 2 loops, Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on
hook, Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook to complete stitch. Work a triplr across row in each chain
across row. After last stitch chain 5, turn and begin 2nd row.
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3.8 Slip Stitch (sl st)
The slip stitch is a very short stitch used for joining as is closing of a ring or seaming two pieces. It is
sometimes worked around an edge to strengthen it and to minimize stretching.
Insert hook in shain and catch yarn, draw a loop through the chain and the loop on the hook.
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3.9 Variations on Elementary Stitches
Working under one loop produces a ribbed effect and a more open pattern than is achieved with the usual
technique of working under both loops.
To work the back loop only, insert hook front to back with a downward motion, catch the yarn and pull
loop through and complete stitch.
To work the front loop only, insert hook front to back with an upward motion, catch the yarn and pull loop
through and complete stitch.
3.9.1 Working Between stitches
is used in many patterns. One or more chains are made between the stitches in one row, in the next row
you crochet into the chain or chain space. The results are different for each method.
To work chain between stitches insert hook under the 2 top loops and make a stitch through the chain.
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To work a chain space between stitches insert hook under the chain and make a stitch or group of stitches
over the chain through the chain.
Working around the post creates a three dimensional effect. The post stitches can be worked to either the
front or the back of the post, or a combination of front and back.
To work a post dc around the back, yarn over hook front to back between the next two stitches, then bring it
forward between the stitch being worked and the one after it; hook is now positioned horizontally in back
or stitch. Complete the dc.
To work a post dc around the front, yarn over hook back to front to back between the next two stitches, then
bring it forward between the stitch being worked and the one after it; hook is now positioned horizontally
in front or stitch. Complete the dc.
3.9.2 Double chain stitch
makes a sturdier foundation than a simple chain. it can also be used alone for a trim or cord
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Make a slip knot and chain 2, work a single crochet in 2nd chain from hook *insert hook under the left loop
of the single crochet, catch yarn and draw up a loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops*, Repeat until chain
is desired length.
3.9.3 Double-faced double crochet
makes a very thick fabric.
Row 1: *1 double crochet in each chain*chain 3 Turn.
Row2: With fabric sideways, skip 1st stitch, *yarn over, insert hook in back loop of next stitch and back
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stitch of foundation chain, draw a loop through the 2 back loops, then complete dc.* Repeat between *s to
end, chain 3, turn. Repeat Row 2 for pattern.
3.9.4 A double knot stitch
is a formation of elongated loops interlocked to produce a mesh fabric similar to netting. 1/2 inch loops
agree recommended but any length will do.
Work 1 single crochet in 2nd chain from hook *lengthen the loop to 1/2inch, draw up a new loop, then
take hook across the front of the elongated loop and insert it under the yarn that was drawn up for the new
loop, work 1 single crochet * to complete single knot. Repeat instruction between *s . *Skip 3 chains, work 1
single crochet in next chain, make 1 knot. Repeat across row ending with 3 single knot stitches. Turn work,
work 1 single crochet in center of next double knot. Repeat across row. This row repeated forms pattern.
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3.10 Joining and securing yarns
To join a new yarn at the end of a row work the last stitch with the rst yarn to nal 2 loops, draw up the
last loop with the new yarn.
Cut the rst yarn to 2. Make a chain, turn. Pull up 2 short yarns and lay over previous row: work over
them for 4-5 stitches.
To secure yarn end(fasten off) on nished work, cut yarn to a 6 length: pull end through the last loop and
tighten it.
Thread yarn end in tapestry or yarn needle, weave into the back of work for 1-2 below top row of stitches.
Cut remainder.
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3.11 Shaping Increasing
To make a single increase, work 2 stitches in 1 stitch. Single crochet is shown in example.
To make a double increase, work 3 stitches in 1 stitch. Single crochet is shown in example.
To make a decorative double increase (lacy Chevron), work 2 chains at increase location. On next and
Subsequent rows, work (1 stitch, 2 chains, 1 stitch) in 2-chain space of previous row.
To increase several stitches at one edge, as when a sleeve is made in one piece with the garment, extend A
chain from the side edge, then work back along the chain on the next row.
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3.12 Shaping Decreasing
To decrease 1 stitch in ingle or half double crochet, insert hook in next stitch, draw up a loop(3 loops on
hook), yarn over, draw through the 3 loops.
If an increase occurs at the beginning of a row, you can, if you prefer, skip the rst stitch instead of working
2 stitches together. If a decrease is at the end of the row skip the next to last stitch.
To decrease 2 stitches in single or half double, insert hook in stitch, draw up a loop, skip net stitch, insert
hook in net stitch, and draw up a loop (3 loops on hook) yarn over, pull through the 3 loops.
To decrease 1 stitch in double crochet, yarn over, insert hook in stitch, draw up a loop, yarn over, and draw
through 2 loops, yarn over, insert hook in net stitch draw up a loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops(3
loops on hook) yarn 0ver, draw through all 3 loops. If an decrease occurs at the beginning of a row, you
can, if you prefer, skip the rst stitch instead of working 2 stitches together. If a decrease is at the end of the
row skip the next to last stitch.
To decrease 2 stitches in double crochet, yarn over, insert hook in stitch, draw up a loop, yarn over, draw
through 2 loops, skip next stitch, yarn over, insert hook in net stitch drawup a loop, yarn over, drawthrough
2 loops(3 loops on hook) yarn 0ver, draw through all 3 loops. If an decrease occurs at the beginning of a
row, you can, if you prefer, skip the rst stitch instead of working 2 stitches together. If a decrease is at the
end of the row skip the next to last stitch.
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To decrease 1 stitch in Triple crochet, yarn over twice, insert hook in stitch, draw up a loop, yarn over, draw
through 2 loops, yarn over, draw through 2 loops, yarn over twice, insert hook in next stitch draw up a
loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops(3 loops on hook) yarn 0ver, draw through all 3 loops. I
To decrease 2 stitches in Triple crochet, Follow method for decreasing 1 stitch but skip 1 stitch.
To decrease several stitches at the beginning of a row without an abrupt change in stitch heights, omit
turning chain and work slip stitches for the number of decreases. Make 1 single crochet and then nish the
row. Do not work the slip stitches on next row.
To decrease several stitches at the end of a row without an abrupt change in stitch heights, leave unworked
the number of stitches to be decreased, work 1 slip stitch at end of row. chain 1 turn . Skip the slip stitch,
work 1 single crochet in the next stitch, then continues in pattern.
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