E46 Clutch Delay Valve (CDV) Delete (Pics)

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E46 Clutch Delay Valve (CDV) Delete (pics)
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Thread: E46 Clutch Delay Valve (CDV) Delete (pics)
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E46 Clutch Delay Valve (CDV) Delete (pics)
21-07-2010, 19:28
I know there are lots of these CDV delete threads around but this is just my experience and me practising making
DIY threads!
The Clutch Delay Valve (CDV) basically softens up the clutch pedal to remove the harshness of the engines power
from the car. If you come off the clutch quickly to apply mucho power, the CDV will slow the clutch slightly to
make the application less harsh. I wanted my clutch to kick hard when i lifted the pedal quickly, the rest of the
time i am capable of managing it myself without some valve interfering. This DIY may seem long and complicated
but honestly it isn't I have just been very thorough to make it really clear for people. Read through it and it should
make sense, you're basically pulling two pipes off either side of the CDV and sticking them back together!
This job is VERY simple to do (really it is easy i would rate it 2/10).
You will need:
The car jacked up on stands at the front (and rear if you are of a large build to get under the middle section)
1 x 11mm spanner.
2 x 17mm spanner (please get two, this is important).
C-Clamp or mole grips.
Bottle of DOT4 rated clutch/brake fluid.
1 bleed kit (see my sig for brake bleed DIY for info)
With the car up on stands (please use stands for your own safety and not just the jack) crawl under behind the
front wheels. Imagine right between the driver and passenger seat, where the under body covering panels end
there is a little open space up the side of the clutch housing. There is only really one line/tube, it comes from the
front of the car into a little bracket, after the bracket is a metal pipe that wiggles all over the show and then in to
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E46 Clutch Delay Valve (CDV) Delete (pics) http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f91/e46-clutch-delay-valve-cdv-d...
1 of 10 27/03/2013 4:00 PM
the back of a little cylinder (the clutch slave cylinder). Look at the pic below, it is the only thing that looks anything
like this down there so should be really easy to spot it:
Just above this where the metal pipe runs to the small slave cylinder, there is a little metal tube sticking out with a
small rubber cap on, this is the bleed nipple and will be needed later.
For now though on with the DIY!
Have a look at this pic, i have added some labels to make what i am about to say even more simple
2 of 10 27/03/2013 4:00 PM
Step 1
To the right of bolt number 3 (about 6") you need to clamp the line. Use a C-Clamp or some Mole Grips. Don't go
mad, there will be no pressure in this line while you are working on it so just a gentle pinch to stop it flowing out. A
slow drip is no problem just don't get it on you!
Step 2
Put your 17mm spanner on bolt number 2, this is just to hold it in place. Put your 11mm spanner on bolt number 1
and start to unscrew. Please note at this point you will start to get fluid leaking out, this is totally fine. Wear
3 of 10 27/03/2013 4:00 PM
goggles if you feel you can't keep it out of your eyes. If it flows and flows and flows, check the clamp and make
sure it's tight. I lost enough to fill a normal glass about 1". Once bolt number 1 is loose you can unscrew it with
your fingers keeping bolt number 2 held with the 17mm. Once free gently pull the clamped section (bolt number 2)
of the hose away, please note bolt number 1 actually extends INSIDE bolt number 2 so do not bend it as you do
this.
Step 3
Grab your second 17mm spanner and put it on bolt number 3 (you did get 2 of them right...). Holding bolt number
3 in place, unscrew bolt number 2. Once loose use your fingers to unscrew bolt number 2. Once bolt number 2 is
out you can stamp on it, burn it or keep it to remind you of your victory! This is the CDV. Look through it and look
how restrictive the inside of the thing is, the lines going in are massive then this tiny pin hole inside there...
Step 4
Basically put bolt number 3 where bolt number 2 was. Poke the little pipe from bolt number 1 back through the
bracket and using your fingers at first gently screw bolt number 1 and bolt number 3 back together. Nip them
reasonably tight with the spanners but don't go wild. That is it! Your CDV is now removed You just need to
quickly bleed the system to remove any air you let in when you opened the pipe up to remove the valve.
Bleeding
Handy to have a helper for 5 minutes here, all they have to do is press a pedal when you say so the better half can
even do this! Make sure your brake/clutch fluid reservoir is full to MAX and sit the cap back on top. Pop the rubber
cap off the bleed nipple and attach your chosen bleeding kit (see my sig for brake bleeding DIY with loads of info
on bleed kits). Open the bleed nipple a half turn. Get your helper to slowly depress the clutch pedal and slowly
bring it back up. Please note the use of the word SLOWLY. It should take around 4-5 secs to press it down and then
4-5 to bring it back up. On the first few strokes you should get loads of air bubbles. Once the fluid runs clear and
bubble free tighten the nipple, remove your bleed kit and put the rubber cap back on the nipple. If you need to do
5 or 6 strokes check the reservoir fluid level and top it up. Once the job is done always fill the reservoir back to
MAX.
Your work here is done! Put the car back on the ground and fire it up, go for a test drive. First time you set off
please remember what the job you have just done will mean. I most certainly did NOT staul my car after removing
the CDV and bleeding the system. This is also a perfect time to bleed your brakes and swap the fluid for fresh stuff.
If you are going to do this check my sig for the brake bleed DIY, the clutch is bled after the brakes if you are
planning on doing this.
Here is the CDV (bolt number 2) after i removed it:
4 of 10 27/03/2013 4:00 PM
I'm going to keep it to remind me of how it used to make the car feel.
Hope this helps you guys, any questions hit me up, happy to help.
Scott.
Last edited by Scott87; 21-07-2010 at 19:35. Reason: Broken link
5 of 10 27/03/2013 4:00 PM

The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Scott87 For This Useful Post:
RobbieV (21-07-2010), StK (21-07-2010)
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21-07-2010, 19:38
nice write up, i done mine a while back,
makes the car feel so much better

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#3
6 of 10 27/03/2013 4:00 PM
21-07-2010, 19:41
Another great guide

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21-07-2010, 20:00
Thanks for the comments again StK!
It's amazing how easy it is to do and the difference in feeling it gives on the clutch pedal and how it bites a bit
harder/quicker.

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7 of 10 27/03/2013 4:00 PM
21-07-2010, 20:24
So doing this makes the clutch feel harder correct ?
Would it carry over to the E39 ?

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21-07-2010, 20:51
Best bet is to look up your car on realoem.com
Go to the clutch section then clutch control and click on the diagram.
This is my diagram here and the CDV is item 15 called a "Lock Valve".
See if your car has one, if it does I would imagine it would be very similar. Link me the diagram and I will take a
look.
Scott.
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Originally Posted by Tiffster
So doing this makes the clutch feel harder correct ?
Would it carry over to the E39 ?
8 of 10 27/03/2013 4:00 PM

27-07-2010, 14:16
Hi Scott,
1st of great guide. I picked up my BMW the other day a noticed the delay, but like you was able to manage it,
when m8 drove it he was lyk, u dnt get power straight away bla bla bla but he's the jealous type & the type that
dips clutch, shifts & lifts clutch so harshly & expects the car to react str8 away... so needless to say I let it slide &
said to him, "it depends on the driver, do u feel the delay when i'm drivin? It takes a real Bimmer driva to drive a
Bimmer" hahaha tht shut him up lol.
Anywho, rant over (got bit side tracked there), what I wanted to ask was, will this negatively affect my baby in
anyway, as am kinda tired of having to manage the gear change aaall the time lol. My babys a E46 318i W-Reg so
take it, the guide applys, i'll be definitely checking out realoem b4 doing anything.
Many thanks again guys & keep up the gud wrk (luv this forum, has anything & evrything).

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04-08-2010, 23:04
If you can find the valve on realoem.com then your all set to get it removed.
This valve has more of an effect the harder you shift gears. Under very relaxed driving it has little to no effect,
under a fast/hard shift at high revs and applying the power hard in the next gear is where the valve has it's largest
effect. It works by slowing the clutch fluid down by restricting the line (you will see what I mean if you take it out
and look through it), if you pop the clutch quickly rather than the two plates clamping shut and throwing all the
power at the rear wheels it slightly slows them down so they have a more gentle meeting and gentle power
application, making the car nicer/smoother.
Under normal driving removing the valve will have little to no effect on your car in terms of anything. Whilst
driving aggressively is where you MAY see MINIMAL effects in terms of wear on the clutch. The valve is intended to
make the clutch smooth, not to protect it or prevent damage. You may see fractionally more wear on the clutch
without the valve as the clutch plates can now come together quicker and apply your power quicker, this could
induce slightly more wear. My 325Ci has 147,000 on the clock now and my original clutch is still going strong.... If
you thrash the beans out of your car all day long your clutch will wear faster any way. Think of all the cars with
200+Bhp and no CDV, they all do just fine
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Originally Posted by asif_w
Hi Scott,
1st of great guide. I picked up my BMW the other day a noticed the delay, but like you was able to
manage it, when m8 drove it he was lyk, u dnt get power straight away bla bla bla but he's the jealous
type & the type that dips clutch, shifts & lifts clutch so harshly & expects the car to react str8 away...
so needless to say I let it slide & said to him, "it depends on the driver, do u feel the delay when i'm
drivin? It takes a real Bimmer driva to drive a Bimmer" hahaha tht shut him up lol.
Anywho, rant over (got bit side tracked there), what I wanted to ask was, will this negatively affect my
baby in anyway, as am kinda tired of having to manage the gear change aaall the time lol. My babys a
E46 318i W-Reg so take it, the guide applys, i'll be definitely checking out realoem b4 doing anything.
Many thanks again guys & keep up the gud wrk (luv this forum, has anything & evrything).
9 of 10 27/03/2013 4:00 PM
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