Lonely Planet Publications

13

Contents
The Authors

19

Destination
Great Britain

23

Getting Started

24

Itineraries

28

Snapshot

35

History

37

The Culture

60

Outdoor Activities

83

Environment

93

Food & Drink

101

England

109

London

112

History
Orientation
Information
Dangers & Annoyances
Sights
Whitehall Walking Tour
London for Children
Tours
Festivals & Events
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking
Entertainment
Shopping
Getting There & Away
Getting Around

113
115
115
134
134
152
153
153
153
153
159
167
171
176
178
179

Southeast England
HERTFORDSHIRE
St Albans
Around St Albans
ESSEX
Southend-on-Sea
Colchester
KENT
Canterbury
Whitstable
Isle of Thanet
Dover
Around Dover
Kent Weald
SURREY
Farnham
Around Farnham
BERKSHIRE
Windsor & Eton
Around Windsor & Eton
HAMPSHIRE
Winchester
Portsmouth
Southampton
NEW FOREST
Lyndhurst
Around Lyndhurst
Lymington
ISLE OF WIGHT
Cowes
Newport & Around
Ryde
Sandown & Shanklin
Ventnor
South Wight
West Wight
WEST SUSSEX
Arundel
Chichester
Around Chichester
EAST SUSSEX
Rye
Battle
Around Battle
Eastbourne
Around Eastbourne
Brighton & Hove

182
185
185
187
187
187
189
190
190
195
196
198
201
201
202
202
204
204
204
209
210
210
214
218
219
220
221
221
222
224
224
224
224
224
225
225
226
226
227
229
229
229
231
232
233
233
234

Southwest England 241

BRISTOL
History

245
245

14

CONTENTS

Orientation
Information
Sights
Bristol for Children
Tours
Festivals & Events
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking
Entertainment
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
BATH
History
Orientation
Information
Sights
Tours
Festivals & Events
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking
Entertainment
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
SOMERSET
Wells
Around Wells
Glastonbury
EXMOOR NATIONAL
PARK
Dulverton
Lynton & Lynmouth
Porlock & Around
Dunster
DORSET
Bournemouth
Poole
Southeast Dorset
Dorchester
Around Dorchester
Weymouth
Around Weymouth
Lyme Regis
Sherborne
Around Sherborne
WILTSHIRE
Salisbury
Around Salisbury
Stonehenge
Around Stonehenge
Stourhead
Longleat
Malmesbury Abbey
Lacock
Around Lacock

247
247
248
250
251
251
251
252
253
254
255
255
256
256
256
256
256
260
260
260
261
263
263
263
264
264
264
266
267
269
271
272
273
274
274
275
276
277
279
280
281
282
283
284
285
285
286
289
289
291
291
292
292
292
293

Avebury
DEVON
Exeter
Around Exeter
South Devon Coast
Plymouth
Around Plymouth
North Devon
Dartmoor National Park
CORNWALL
Truro
Southeast Cornwall
Southwest Cornwall
West Cornwall
North Cornwall
Isles of Scilly

Oxfordshire,
the Cotswolds &
Gloucestershire
OXFORDSHIRE
Oxford
Woodstock
Henley-on-Thames
Uffington White Horse
THE COTSWOLDS
Minster Lovell
Burford
Chipping Norton
Moreton-in-Marsh
Chipping Campden
Broadway
Winchcombe
Stow-on-the-Wold
Bourton-on-the-Water
The Slaughters
Northleach
Cirencester
Bibury
Tetbury
Painswick
GLOUCESTERSHIRE
Gloucester
Around Gloucester
Cheltenham
Tewkesbury

The Marches
WORCESTERSHIRE
Worcester
Around Worcester
Great Malvern
HEREFORDSHIRE

293
295
296
300
300
304
308
308
309
315
316
318
321
326
331
337

Hereford
Around Hereford
Ross-on-Wye
Around Ross-on-Wye
Ledbury
Around Ledbury
SHROPSHIRE
Shrewsbury
Around Shrewsbury
Ironbridge Gorge
Much Wenlock
Around Much Wenlock
Church Stretton & Around
Bishops Castle
Ludlow
Around Ludlow

The Midlands

342
343
344
354
354
356
356
357
357
358
359
359
360
360
361
361
362
362
363
363
364
364
365
365
367
368
372

381
384
384
386
387
388

388
391
391
391
392
393
393
394
397
397
400
401
401
402
403
405

406

BIRMINGHAM
History
Orientation
Information
Dangers & Annoyances
Sights & Activities
Brum Nightlife Walking
Tour
Birmingham for Children
Tours
Festivals & Events
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking
Entertainment
Shopping
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
WARWICKSHIRE
Coventry
Warwick
Kenilworth
Stratford-upon-Avon
STAFFORDSHIRE
Lichfield
Stoke-on-Trent
Around Stoke-on-Trent
NORTHAMPTONSHIRE
Northampton
Around Northampton
LEICESTERSHIRE &
RUTLAND
Leicester
Around Leicester
Rutland
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE
Nottingham

408
408
409
409
409
411
413
414
414
414
414
415
416
416
417
417
418
418
418
419
421
422
426
426
427
428
428
428
429
430
430
433
434
434
435

CONTENTS

Around Nottingham
Southwell
DERBYSHIRE
Derby
Around Derby
Matlock Bath
Chesterfield
Around Chesterfield
PEAK DISTRICT
Buxton
Edale
Castleton
Eyam
Bakewell
Around Bakewell

439
440
440
440
441
442
444
444
444
447
449
450
452
453
454

Eastern England

456

CAMBRIDGESHIRE
Cambridge
Around Cambridge
Ely
Peterborough
SUFFOLK
Ipswich
Around Ipswich
Stour Valley
Bury St Edmunds
Around Bury St Edmunds
Aldeburgh
Southwold
NORFOLK
Norwich
Norfolk Broads
Great Yarmouth
Cromer
Cley Marshes
Blakeney Point
Wells-next-the-Sea
Around Wells-next-the-Sea
Kings Lynn
Around Kings Lynn
LINCOLNSHIRE
Lincoln
Grantham
Stamford
Around Stamford
Boston
Skegness
Louth

Yorkshire
SOUTH YORKSHIRE
Sheffield

459
459
468
469
471
472
472
473
473
475
477
477
478
479
480
484
486
486
486
487
487
487
488
490
490
491
495
496
497
497
498
499

500
503
503

WEST YORKSHIRE
Leeds
Around Leeds
Hebden Bridge
Haworth
YORKSHIRE DALES
NATIONAL PARK
Skipton
Grassington
Around Grassington
Malham
Settle
Around Settle
Hawes
Richmond
EAST RIDING OF
YORKSHIRE
Hull
Beverley
NORTH YORKSHIRE
York
Around York
Thirsk
Around Thirsk
Harrogate
Scarborough
NORTH YORK MOORS
NATIONAL PARK
Helmsley
Around Helmsley
Hutton-le-Hole
Pickering
Danby
Whitby
Around Whitby

507
508
513
515
515
517
519
520
520
520
520
521
522
523
524
524
526
527
527
537
537
538
539
541
544
546
547
548
549
549
549
553

Northwest England 554

MANCHESTER
History
Orientation
Information
Sights & Activities
Manchester for Children
Quirky Manchester
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking
Entertainment
Shopping
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
CHESHIRE
Chester
Around Chester

556
556
557
557
557
561
562
562
563
564
564
567
567
567
568
568
571

LIVERPOOL
History
Orientation
Information
Sights
Liverpool for Children
Quirky Liverpool
Tours
Festivals & Events
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking
Entertainment
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
AROUND LIVERPOOL
Port Sunlight
Speke
LANCASHIRE
Blackpool
Lancaster
ISLE OF MAN
Douglas
Around Douglas
Castletown & Around
Peel & Around

Cumbria & the

Lakes

15

571
573
573
573
574
576
576
576
577
577
578
579
580
581
582
582
582
582
582
583
584
585
587
588
588
588

589

LAKE DISTRICT
Windermere & Bowness
Kendal
Around Kendal
Ambleside
Around Ambleside
Grasmere
Hawkshead
Around Hawkshead
Coniston
Langdale
Wasdale
Keswick
Borrowdale & Buttermere
Valleys
Ullswater & Around
CUMBRIAN COAST
Cartmel Priory
Furness Abbey
Ravenglass & Around
NORTH & EAST CUMBRIA
Carlisle
Penrith
Around Penrith

591
593
596
597
598
599
600
601
602
602
603
604
604
607
608
609
609
610
610
610
610
614
615

16

CONTENTS

Northeast England 616

NEWCASTLE-UPON-TYNE
Orientation
Information
Sights
Newcastle for Children
Quirky Newcastle
Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking
Entertainment
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
AROUND NEWCASTLE
Angel of the North
Segedunum
COUNTY DURHAM
Durham
Around Durham
Barnard Castle
Around Barnard Castle
North Pennines
HADRIANS WALL
Corbridge
Hexham
Chesters Roman Fort &
Museum
Haltwhistle
Around Haltwhistle
NORTHUMBERLAND
Alnwick
Warkworth
Farne Islands
Bamburgh
Holy Island (Lindisfarne)
Berwick-upon-Tweed
NORTHUMBERLAND
NATIONAL PARK
Bellingham
Rothbury

Wales
Cardiff (Caerdydd)
History
Orientation
Information
Sights & Activities
Cardiff for Children
Tours
Festivals & Events

618
619
619
621
622
622
623
623
623
624
624
625
626
626
626
626
626
627
630
631
631
632
632
634
634
635
635
635
637
637
638
638
638
639
640
641
641
642

643

645
646
646
646
647
652
652
652

Sleeping
Eating
Drinking
Entertainment
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
AROUND CARDIFF
Castell Coch
Caerphilly Castle
Museum of Welsh Life
Rhondda Heritage Park
Caerleon Roman Fortress

South Wales

661

SOUTHEAST WALES
Wye Valley
Chepstow (Cas Gwent)
Around Chepstow
The Valleys
Swansea (Abertawe)
Gower Peninsula
Carmarthen (Caerfyrddin)
Around Carmarthen
Laugharne (Lacharn)
PEMBROKESHIRE COAST
NATIONAL PARK
Tenby (Dinbych y Pysgod)
Manorbier
Pembroke (Penfro)
Around Pembroke
Haverfordwest (Hwlffordd)
St Brides Bay (Bae Sain
Ffraid)
Skomer, Skokholm &
Grassholm Islands
St Davids (Ty-Ddewi)
Around St Davids
Fishguard (Abergwaun)
Newport (Trefdraeth)
Around Newport
Cardigan (Aberteifi)

Mid Wales

652
654
656
656
658
659
659
659
659
660
660
660

662
663
664
665
666
667
672
673
673
673
675
678
679
679
681
681
681
682
683
686
686
688
689
689

691

BRECON BEACONS
Brecon Beacons National
Park (Parc Cenedlaethol
Bannau Brycheiniog)
Brecon (Aberhonddu)
Crickhowell (Grug Hywel)
Abergavenny (Y Fenni)
Around Abergavenny
Hay-on-Wye (Y Gelli)
POWYS
Llanwrtyd Wells

693
693
697
700
700
702
703
705

(Llanwrtyd)
Llandrindod Wells
(Llandrindod)
Knighton (Tref-y-Clawdd)
Welshpool (Y Trallwng)
Machynlleth
CEREDIGION
Aberystwyth
Around Aberystwyth

North Wales

705
706
707
707
708
710
710
713

715

NORTHEASTERN WALES 716

Wrexham (Wrecsam)
716
Llangollen
717
Around Llangollen
720
SNOWDONIA
NATIONAL PARK (PARC
CENEDLAETHOL ERYRI) 720
Llanberis
723
Beddgelert
725
Capel Curig
726
Betws-y-Coed
727
Blaenau Ffestiniog
728
Porthmadog
729
Around Porthmadog
730
Harlech
731
Barmouth (Abermaw)
732
Tywyn & Around
732
Dolgellau
732
Bala (Y Bala)
734
Llandudno
734
Conwy
737
Bangor
739
Around Bangor
739
Caernarfon
740
ISLE OF ANGLESEY
741
Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch
741
Around Llanfair Pg
742
Beaumaris (Biwmares)
742
Holyhead (Caergybi) &
Holy Island (Ynys Cybi)
742
LLN PENINSULA
743
Criccieth (Cricieth)
743
Pwllheli
744

Scotland

745

Edinburgh

747

History
Orientation
Information

748
748
749

CONTENTS

Sights
Activities
Walking Tour
Edinburgh for Children
Tours
Festivals & Events
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking
Entertainment
Shopping
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
AROUND EDINBURGH
Edinburgh Zoo
South Queensferry &
Inchcolm
Newhaven
Craigmillar Castle
Rosslyn Chapel

Glasgow &
Southern Scotland

752
759
759
760
761
761
762
764
767
768
769
770
771
771
771
771
772
772
772

781

GLASGOW
History
Orientation
Information
Sights
Activities
Walking Tour
Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking
Entertainment
Shopping
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
LANARKSHIRE
Blantyre
Lanark & New Lanark
SCOTTISH BORDERS
Peebles
Around Peebles
Selkirk
Melrose
Around Melrose
Kelso & Around
Jedburgh
Hermitage Castle
DUMFRIES & GALLOWAY
Dumfries
Around Dumfries

784
784
784
784
785
790
791
791
792
793
795
796
797
798
799
799
799
800
801
801
802
802
803
804
805
806
807
808
808
809

Kirkcudbright
Newton Stewart
Machars Peninsula
Stranraer
Portpatrick
AYRSHIRE
Largs
Isle of Great Cumbrae
Ayr
Around Ayr
Ardrossan
Isle of Arran

Central Scotland

810
811
811
812
813
813
813
814
814
815
816
816

821

ARGYLL & BUTE

Loch Lomond & Trossachs
National Park
Inveraray
Kilmartin Glen
Kintyre Peninsula
Isle of Islay
Isle of Jura
Isle of Colonsay
Oban
Isle of Mull
Isle of Iona
Isle of Staffa
Isle of Coll
Isle of Tiree
STIRLING REGION
Stirling
Around Stirling
The Trossachs
Killin
FIFE
St Andrews
Around St Andrews
East Neuk
Falkland
Southwestern Fife
PERTHSHIRE & KINROSS
Perth
Perth to Aviemore
West Perthshire
ABERDEENSHIRE &
MORAY
Aberdeen
Around Aberdeen
Deeside & Donside
Northern Aberdeenshire
& Moray
DUNDEE & ANGUS
Dundee

825
825
826
827
828
829
831
832
832
834
837
837
838
838
838
838
842
842
845
845
846
850
850
852
852
853
854
857
858
860
860
865
865
867
869
870

Around Dundee
Arbroath

Highlands &
Northern Islands

17

873
874

875

THE CAIRNGORMS
879
Aviemore
879
Around Aviemore
882
Kingussie & Newtonmore 883
THE GREAT GLEN
884
Fort William & Around
884
Glen Coe
887
Loch Ness
889
Inverness
890
Around Inverness
894
EAST COAST
895
Tain & Around
895
Dornoch & Around
895
Dunrobin Castle
896
Caithness
896
NORTH & WEST COAST
898
Thurso & Scrabster
899
West from Thurso
899
Durness
900
Durness to Ullapool
901
Ullapool
901
Ullapool to Kyle of
Lochalsh
903
Kyle of Lochalsh
904
Around Kyle of Lochalsh 904
Road to the Isles
905
Mallaig
905
ISLE OF SKYE
905
Portree (Port Righ)
907
Kyleakin (Caol Acain)
909
Broadford (An T-Ath
Leathann)
909
Armadale (Armadal)
910
Cuillin Hills & Minginish
Peninsula
910
Dunvegan & Around
910
Trotternish Peninsula
911
Isle of Raasay
912
OUTER HEBRIDES
912
Lewis (Leodhais)
913
Harris (Na Hearadh)
916
North Uist (Uibhist A
Tuath)
918
Benbecula (Beinn Na
Faoghla)
918
South Uist (Uibhist A Deas) 918
Barra (Barraigh)
919
ORKNEY ISLANDS
919
Kirkwall
921

18

CONTENTS

West & North Mainland

East Mainland, Burray &
South Ronaldsay
Hoy
Northern Islands
SHETLAND ISLANDS
Lerwick
Around Lerwick
South Mainland
North Mainland
Yell & Unst
Other Islands

The Channel
Islands

924

Directory

928
929
929
933
935
938
938
939
939
940

Accommodation
Business Hours
Children
Climate Charts
Customs
Dangers & Annoyances
Discount Cards
Embassies & Consulates
Festivals & Events
Food
Gay & Lesbian Travellers
Heritage Organisations
Holidays
Insurance
Internet Access
Legal Matters
Maps
Money
Post
Telephone

941

Jersey
Guernsey
Herm
Alderney
Sark

943
944
946
946
947

949
949
953
954
954
954
954
956
956
956
958
958
958
959
959
959
960
960
960
961
961

Regional Map Contents

Highlands &
Northern Islands
pp876-7

Central
Scotland
pp822-3
Edinburgh
pp750-1

Glasgow &
Southern
Northeast
Scotland
England
pp782-3
Cumbria & p617
the Lakes
p590
Yorkshire
pp502-3
Northwest
North England
Wales
p555
The
p722
Midlands
Eastern
Mid
England
The p407
Wales Marches
p457
p692 p383
South
Wales Cardiff
London
p662 p648
pp116-7
Southwest
Southeast
England
England
pp242-3
p184
The
Channel
Islands
p942

Oxfordshire,
the Cotswolds &
Gloucestershire
p343

Time
Tourist Information
Travellers with Disabilities
Visas
Weights & Measures
Women Travellers
Work

962
962
963
963
963
964
964

965

Transport

GETTING THERE & AWAY

Entering the Country
Air
Land
Sea
GETTING AROUND
Air
Bicycle
Bus & Coach
Car & Motorcycle
Hitching
Local Transport
Train

965
965
965
967
968
969
969
969
969
969
971
971
972

975

Health
BEFORE YOU GO
Internet Resources
IN TRANSIT
Deep Vein Thrombosis
(DVT)
Jet Lag
IN BRITAIN
Sunburn
Water
Womens Health

975
975
975
975
975
976
976
976
976

Language

977

Glossary

979

Behind the Scenes

983

Index

988

World Time Zones 1010

Map Legend

1012

Metro Maps

1013