PASTURED PORK:

A Snapshot of the Industry and Where to go from Here

Written By: Casey Rogers

December 2014
A thesis submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the
degree of Master of Arts in Food Studies at Chatham University.

Introduction & Literature Review:

There is a market developing within the niche pork world for pastured pork
products. Pastured pork is the swine equivalent of grass-fed beef or free-range poultry; an
alternative to both the conventional and organic methods of production. While grass-fed
beef and free-range or cage-free poultry products have seen an increase in both
production and sales nationwide in the past few years, pastured pork has not seen this
marked increase (Hardesty, nd). This study was designed to find out why pastured pork
has not seen the growth that one might expect. It looks at where the pastured pork
industry is now and where producers think it could go in the future. It tests the
researchers hypothesis that pastured pork has not seen strong growth in part because
there is no official definition of the term pastured and therefore no subsequent labeling
standard that can be used to market sales of pastured pork as a higher-value product.
Pasture-Raised Pork
Raising pigs on pasture is seen as an alternative to both the conventional and
organic methods of pork production that can provide benefits to producers, consumers,
and animals. In essence, pastured pork production allows pigs free range to perform their
natural behaviors such as rooting and digging, while providing small shelters which the
pigs can use to rest or farrow (give birth). Pastured pork also provides environmental
health benefits.

Because the pigs are not kept in a confined area, as they are in

conventional pork production, the use of sub-therapeutic doses of antibiotics used in

conventional pork is eliminated (NRDC, 2011). More broadly, hogs on pastures do
not represent a significant environmental or health risk [as does conventional hog

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production]. Their waste goes back to the fields where the feed grains were grown to be
recycled for future production (Ikerd, 2001).
At the same time, pastured pork has also become an alternative to organic
production, providing producers a way around the high cost of organic certification.
Some pastured pork producers actually talk about their methods as beyond organic,
meaning that they believe their techniques of raising livestock are environmentally and
ethically stronger what than the organic standards mandate, because organic standards
still allow for confined, or CAFO (confined animal feeding operation) style, production
methods (Tendergrass Farms, ND). While CAFO-style organic operations do not allow
for the use of antibiotics or animal by-products in feed, they still keep pigs indoors on
concrete flooring, and only give them enough access to the outdoors to meet the
minimum organic requirements. Such a system does not allow the pigs to utilize their
natural behaviors and is not conducive to the creation of the happiest pigs possible
(Tendergrass Farms, ND).
Pastured pork production is not a new concept; it is one that has been used since
pigs were first domesticated. The demand that is emerging now comes from consumers
wishing to support farmers that are practicing this sustainable technique and who want a
product that is produced in a more natural way than conventional (or organic) pork.
Research has shown that consumers are willing to pay more for products that come with
environmental attributes such as those inherent in pastured pork production, including
surface and groundwater quality (Hurley, 1999).
In 2006, research done at Iowa State University estimated that the number of
pastured pigs being raised in the US ranged from 500,000 to 750,000 and that this
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number was increasing (Strom, 2014). Many producers turn to pastured pork as a way to
make their part of the food system more sustainable. These farmers, such as those from
Sugar Mountain Farms in Vermont, emphasize that CAFOs keep thousands of pigs in
small indoor spaces, use sub-therapeutic antibiotics, and have to manage large quantities
of concentrated manure, and as such are at the root of their concern about conventional
livestock production today (SMF, 2014). Keeping pigs on pasture allows production to be
more environmentally and socially responsible than with the conventional methods,
without necessarily having to tap into the organically certified market.
However, pastured pork can be difficult to market on a large scale, in part because
there is no legal USDA definition or set of requirements to use the phrase in marketing,
as there is for other alternative meat industries. For example, there are legal USDA
definitions for the terms cage-free and free-range for chicken, and grass-fed for beef
(NOP, 2014). But for pigs, there is no clear regulatory definition on what is considered
pasture-raised (USDA-AMS, year). Second, there is no umbrella organization which
helps pastured pork producers get started or find resources, like there is for both the
grass-fed beef industry (American Grassfed Association) and the pastured chicken
industry (American Pastured Poultry Producers Association), or like there is for
conventional pork production (National Pork Producers Council). This presents a unique
set of challenges to pastured pork producers wishing to sell their products in larger
markets because those larger markets are often looking for certifications that are easily
recognized by their customers, which often come either from government or from such
industry organizations (MDA, 2014). It is hypothesized by this researcher that the lack of
a clear definition of pastured pork and a clear label for this style of production has stunted
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the growth of this industry. This seems especially possible when compared to the grassfed beef or free-range poultry industries, which have a labeling system and, as
determined in a previous study on the growth of niche meat markets, have seen higher
growth (Hardesty, nd). This hypothesis arose because it was noted by the researcher that
the Hardesty study, as well as other studies, focused on the grass-fed beef and pastured
poultry industries when talking about growth in alternative meats, while the pastured
pork industry was largely left out. The connection was made that those industries all had
labels for their products, versus the pastured pork industry which did not, and that this
may have been a reason as to why the pastured pork industry was largely left out of
studies done on alternative meat markets. While this study does not specifically compare
the pastured pork industry to the grass-fed beef or pastured poultry industries, it does take
this comparison and related question as a point of departure.
One study found that most pastured pork producers sell either whole hogs to highend local restaurants or they sell individual cuts at farmers markets where they can
communicate their practices very easily to those who inquire (Hardesty, n.d.). In many
cases it is possible for a producer to obtain a steady income using these methods. On the
whole however, neither of these options bring a steady income like what would be
available if producers could also obtain contracts within larger markets if they chose to
do so. But without a more broadly understood label, many pastured pork producers feel at
a loss to communicate their practices to this kind of a broader market (Hardesty, n.d.)
While in theory the lack of an official definition for pastured pork does not preclude
producers labeling their product as pastured, it does mean that they would have to

independently convince retail outlets that their pastured label was worth their higher
price point, without official sanction.
While many pastured pork producers see their products as generating great
potential appeal for customers, they argue that more information about pasturing needs to
be communicated to consumers in order to make pastured pork more widely available
beyond localized markets, In other words, it is possible that a certification or legal
definition for pasture-raised would facilitate in particular more regional or global
marketing (Mark's Daily Apple, 2013). For example in the grass-fed beef industry, a
label was created in 2003 by the American Grass-Fed Association to signify a difference
in beef products, while working to strengthen both government and consumer relations
with the product. The AGA label is only approved for use by those meeting their
standards; standards that were pushed for by many grass-fed beef producers (AGA,
2014).
The following sections provide more detailed information about the pastured pork
industry and its practices. The goal is to better situate study questions about where
pastured pork producers see the present and future of their industry, and how they see
such issues of labeling and certification playing into the current and future growth (or
stability) of their industry.

Production Concerns:
There are two production techniques used in the pastured pork industry: The first
is keeping sows (mother pigs) and farrowing piglets (birthing piglets), and the second is
buying feeder piglets to raise to market weight. When a producer is using sows, they
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typically buy a gilt (an un-bred, never-farrowed female pig), and raise her to adulthood,
at which time they either bring in a boar for insemination or they use artificial
insemination (AI). Once the gilt is bred (pregnant), she is taken care of until she farrows
(gives birth), at which point she becomes a sow. The sow then raises the piglets until they
are weaned at 8-10 weeks. The sow is then generally separated from the piglets, and the
piglets are raised to market weight before being taken to processing. It generally takes
from 6 to 8 months (or sometimes up to a year) to get the piglets from birth to market
weight in a pastured system, compared to a standard 6 months for conventional pork
producers (USDA, Pork Production).
If a producer buys feeder pigs, on the other hand, this means that they purchase
just-weaned piglets that are around 8 weeks old and 30-40 pounds. These producers then
raise the piglets in a similar manner as mentioned above and get the piglets to market
weight and processing in the same time frame.
There are pros and cons to each of these systems of production and, as such,
different producers make different decisions as to which method they wish to follow. If
the producer chooses to farrow with sows, they have to over-winter the sows; in other
words, they have to feed and shelter the sows throughout the winter with no pasture to
supplement the feed and little to no active weight gain on the pigs. But they do not have
to buy feeder pigs on the open market. According to the most current weekly feeder pig
price report from the USDA, prices for feeder pigs averaged $97 per pig in the
conventional pig market (USDA, Weekly Report). Because of the more unique heritage
breeds that are used in a pastured system, it is estimated that pastured feeder pigs cost at
least $50 more per piglet than in the conventional system (USDA, Weekly Report). At
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present, many producers are considering switching from purchasing feeder pigs to
farrowing their own piglets with sows due to the cost and risks associated with the rise in
prevalence of the PED virus.
PED stands for Porcine Epidemic Diarrhea virus and it is affecting millions of
piglets throughout the United States, particularly in conventional systems of production.
The virus was first discovered in Iowa in May of 2013, and has since spread to more than
25 states in the US (Strom, 2014). It is estimated that 100,000 piglets have died each
week since May 2013 due to the PED virus, and researchers are still working on a cure
(Strom, 2014). In essence, the PED virus causes severe dehydration in piglets due to
incessant diarrhea which kills the piglets, on average, within a week of contracting the
disease.
While no pigs are immune from contracting the disease, many pastured pork
producers believe that pastured pigs have more of a natural immunity to the disease since
they are exposed to dirt and its natural bacterial inhabitants from such a young age
(Personal Interview, Pastured Pork Producer, June 16, 2014).1 Still, many producers are
taking extra precautions to ensure that their herd health remains high. Some of these
precautions include monitoring the genetic stock they bring onto the farm (boars, new
pigs), switching from boars to AI for insemination, and picking up their pig feed and
other necessities themselves rather than having a transportation company deliver them to
the farm. While many believe the PED virus is a more explicit risk to conventional
operations, where new pigs are brought in at a much larger scale, and crowded indoor
conditions facilitate the spread of the disease, pastured producers are still paying the price
1

Note, however, that there does not seem to be research that supports these beliefs.

viii

for the disease, with feeder pig prices having increased for all breeds over the last year
and a half. Without the PED virus, the pastured pork industry may not be seeing as many
pastured pork producers thinking about a sow/farrow operation.
Supplemental Feed on Pasture
For pigs, pasture is more like dessert than it is dinner. According to Storey's
Guide to Raising Pigs, pasture only provides about one-fourth of the total nutritional
requirements of a pig; therefore it is always necessary for pastured pork producers to
provide additional nutritional feed and supplements (Klober, 2009). This is different
from products such as grass-fed beef which can be fed a 100% grass-based diet (Klober,
2009).
Many consumers understand the concept of raising livestock on pasture based on
their experiences with beef, and thus believe that all pastured animals are able to be
raised strictly on pasture (Personal Interview, Pastured Pork Producer, June 2014). This
misunderstanding can make it harder to market pastured pork. The confusion stems from
the fact that ruminants, such as cattle and sheep, have the ability to obtain all their
nutritional requirements from the grasses they eat, so they can be 100% grass-fed.
Monogastrics, or animals with only one stomach such as swine and poultry, require
supplemental feed in addition to the pasture to meet their nutritional requirements. This is
because the bacteria in the rumen of ruminants have the ability to break down and pull
out more nutrients from the pasture than can the single stomach of pigs or chickens
(Klober, 2009).
The USDA has not thus far decided to use labeling to clarify this confusion.
Their take on a pasture-raised label has been that Due to the number of variables
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involved in pasture-raised agricultural systems, the USDA has not developed a federal
definition for pasture-raised products (USDA-AMS, 2012). Because of the resulting
inability to market pork as USDA-regulated pastured (because there is no official label)
or as 100% grass-fed (because pigs cannot be 100% grass-fed), many pastured pork
producers focus more on promoting their product as local than as pastured, or distinguish
their product from the rest by highlighting the quality of the supplemental feeds they use
giving the pigs grains that are certified organic, certified non-GMO, or soy-free
(Personal Interview, Pastured Pork Producer, July 3, 2014). As such, pastured pork has
often been marketed based on its value-added attributes, as well as (or instead of) the fact
that they are raised on pasture.
Pastured Pork in the Nationwide Marketplace
Perhaps in part because of these marketing and labeling constraints, one of the
largest challenges many pastured pork producers still face today is limited access to a
larger market for their pig products. According to Mintel, an international market
research firm, the natural and organic meat sectors are growing at a much stronger rate
than conventional meat and poultry sales (Mintel, 2010).

While still a very small

segment of total meat sales, it is therefore a sector to watch from a growth standpoint.
For example, while the grass-fed beef industry only accounts for roughly 3% of the total
beef industry in the US, it is nevertheless estimated that grass-fed beef production has
been growing at a rate of 20% per year (Gustin, 2012).
But while the pastured meat industry is expanding overall, pastured pork has not
necessarily been at the head of this curve (Honeyman et. al, 2006). The USDA reports
that the pastured pork industry accounts for less than 1% of the total pork produced in the
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US, but does not post official growth rates (USDA-AMS, 2012). As suggested earlier,
one reason for the slower growth of pastured pork might be that while prices for pastured
pork products are higher than those for conventional pork2, the reasons for those price
differences are not clear to most consumers; in other words, there is no officiallysanctioned label indicating to customers a rationale as to why they should spend more
money on the product3.
Bacon, for example, is generally considered one of the more expensive pork
products per pound, and both the conventional and the pastured sides of production have
seen price increases in the last several years. In February 2014, the national average for
conventionally produced bacon was $5.46 per pound (USDA-AMS Pork, 2014),
compared to pastured products, where producers interviewed said their bacon sold from
$10-12 per pound (Personal Interview, Pastured Pork Producer, August 2014). But
without a specific pastured label, customers who are not already educated on pastured
pork or who do not know the producer they are buying from are unlikely to feel confident
in purchasing a pastured pork product at almost double the conventional cost. At the
same time, pastured producers cannot sell their products for conventional prices because
their production costs are higher and they are generally producing less volume annually
than conventional producers. If a third-party agency or certification body were to create a

According to the USDA Ag Census, conventional pork sales have declined between 2007-2012 by
roughly 25%, as the price per pound of conventional pork has risen. In the same time frame, the average
cost of production on these farms has increased by 68% (USDA Ag Census, 2012)

Note, however, that there are many cases where the lack of a label has given food producers or processors
more flexibility to label as they choose and charge higher prices for it, for example with a label such as
natural. It is thus interesting that many pastured pork producers seem to be hesitant to do this.

xi

label for pastured pork along with a legal definition, some of this uncertainty might be
eliminated in a retail setting.
Many observers feel that, despite this obstacle, there is potential for growth in the
industry. According to John Ikerd, a Professor Emeritus of Agricultural & Applied
Economics at the University of Missouri Columbia:
If family hog operations are to survive and prosper in the future, it will be with
systems that require high levels of skill in animal husbandry and all aspects of
production management. Successful family hog operations also are going to have
to break away from the highly integrated production and marketing systems
independent producers are quickly losing access to traditional [i.e. conventional
retail] markets. Family hog farmers of the future must have their own direct
linkage with their customers either individually or through joint ventures with
other independent producers. Many producers are already developing such
systems. They produce hogs on pasture (Ikerd, 2001).
As Ikerd suggests, there is potential, given the concentration of the conventional
pork industry, for the independent producer of pastured pork to provide a more
widespread alternative to the conventional and organic ways of pork production, either
through direct or aggregated sales.

And on the consumption side, the demand for

humanely-raised pastured pork has increased dramatically over the last few years
(Sustainable Agriculture Network, 2005). However, despite Ikerds predictions, supply
has not kept pace with this demand (Sustainable Agriculture Network, 2005). So there is,
presumably, great potential for the pastured pork industry to continue growing and
developing new customers. The questions tied to this are multiple. For example:

In what direction should the pastured pork industry grow? Should producers
continue to be focused on a localized marketing system, or is it better to expand
the industry on a nationwide scale through regional or national marketing
channels?
xii

Can the presumed labeling constraints to such growth be overcome, perhaps with
a public or private labeling scheme, or more retailer/consumer education?

Will the pastured pork industry be able to continue to keep its current standards of
production if there were a label? Would more conventional producers want to
switch to pastured production?

Can producers keep up with the demand if growth occurs? How would they
compensate for the possibility of excess product?
This study is designed to begin to think about some of these questions, primarily

by examining the pastured pork industry as it currently stands. While the study will not
answer all of these questions in full, it will examine several issues that are key
components of these questions: producers levels of satisfaction with their current
marketing channels, their views on labeling, and their interest in future growth. More
broadly, this study gathers information about who is producing pastured pork, what the
benefits of this style of production are, what the challenges of this production method are,
and what the potential is (or is not) for marketing and expansion of this class of products.
All of these areas are extremely important in determining what the industry looks like
today and where it can go in the future.
In conducting this study, producers were interviewed and asked many of these
questions in order to gauge their thoughts on both their individual production as well as
production across the nation (see Appendix A for complete list of interview questions).
The goal was to better understand what they believe is happening within the industry and
where they think it is going to go in the future. Since the pastured pork industry is
viewed as a more sustainable endeavor than conventional methods of production, and one
xiii

generally friendlier towards smaller producers, finding ways for the industry to expand
can be important for advocates of sustainable agriculture, especially those concerned with
the environmental and social impacts of larger scale meat production. But expansion will
not happen without first having a better understanding of the industry as a whole, in order
to know its key attributes and weaknesses and to better grasp the potential for the
industry in the future. Given the potential environmental and social benefits of growing
the pastured pork sector, advocates of more sustainable animal production systems would
be well served to better understand and determine how to meet the goals of the producers
in the pastured pork industry, and create a profitable enough industry to encourage more
farmers to produce pastured pork to meet increasing demands. This study aims to develop
that better understanding, allowing for insight into the pastured pork industry as it
currently stands in order to determine how it could expand in the future.

xiv

Table of Contents:
Methods..
Results..
Production Methods.
Operation.
Breeds..
Feed.
Market Weight
Processing...
Economic Concerns.
Costs & Profits
Relative Profitability...
Sales & Marketing..
Markets
Growth.
Labeling & Certifications
Umbrella Organization
Discussion & Analysis of Data
Scale
Feed.
Defining Pastured.
Conclusion
Bibliography.
Appendix..

Figure 1
Table 1.
Table 2 & 3..
Table 4.
Table 5
Table 6
Table 7
Table 8
Table 9
Table 10..
Table 11..
Table 12..
Table 13..

.1
.5
.7
.7
.9
11
11
12
14
14
16
19
21
23
25
28
30
32
34
36
38
42
45

..5
..6
..8
.10
.11
.12
.14
.16
.20
.21
.22
.25
.30

Methods:
Research for this thesis was conducted via interviews with pastured pork
producers. These interviews were conducted either in person or over the phone in order
to reach pastured pork producers in as many locations as possible. The list of producers
interviewed was developed via online searching (primarily through EatWild, a website
that connects local producers of pastured products to consumers who are looking to
purchase them), and using customer lists from the Fertrell Company. Fertrell is a
company based in Bainbridge, PA that produces organic fertilizers, soil amendments, and
animal vitamin and mineral supplements. The researcher is currently an employee at
Fertrell in the livestock division and was able to use their contact list to contact
producers. Those on Fertrells list are current customers who purchase swine minerals
from the company. The mineral blends produced by the company are then put into feeds
by feed mills and farmers across the US. Most of these producers, who buy mineral
blends from Fertrell, focus on organic or other alternative production methods. The goal
in this study was to target a purposive sample of pastured pork producers, focused on
geographical diversity; in other words a broad distribution of the pastured pork producers
in the US, varying in both production techniques and markets. There were certain
geographic holes in the sample, specifically in the Southwest, because neither Fertrell nor
EatWild had many producers in the region. It is assumed that the pastured pork industry
may be less well developed in this area.
The sample of pastured pork producers contacted for this project fairly closely
represents the overall distribution of the pork industry in the U.S., with certain
1

modifications. The geographical concentration of the conventional pork industry in the

US has changed over the last 50 years. With the vertical integration of much of the
conventional system (the convergence of hundreds of smaller producers into fewer
factory farm-type operations), the conventional pork system has expanded from its base
in the traditionally dominant Corn Belt (the American Midwest) to also locate heavily in
North Carolina and Virginia (Drabenstott, 1998). More recently, the conventional pork
industry has also moved into states in the Great Plains area of the US, particularly states
such as Oklahoma and Kansas. (Drabenstott, 1998). According to the National Pork
Producers Council, Iowa has the highest gross profits from conventional pork production,
followed by Illinois, Minnesota, and North Carolina, respectively (NPPC, 2012).
Accordingly, most of the producers interviewed for this study raised pigs in the
Corn Belt and the Southeast, where the majority of the conventional pork is also
produced. While it is unknown whether or not the pastured pork industry has
concentrated in similar locations as the conventional pork industry, these states do
certainly represent high overall pork production. The rest of the data collected were from
states where the alternative and sustainable food movements are growing more rapidly.
The West Coast and the Northeast are represented heavily, and although these producers
may not be producing as many hogs annually as those producers in the Midwest, they still
represent a significant portion of the pastured pork industry. It is likely that these states
will see a greater growth in the number of producers raising pastured pork in the future,
even over the Midwestern states, because they have stronger market demand for such
products (USDA, ERS, 2014). While it is unknown whether or not this geographic
distribution accurately represents the pastured pork industry as a whole, it is certainly a
2

fairly broad distribution that captures the views of pastured pork producers in many parts
of the country.
Potential participants were contacted via email with an interview request form,
and the researcher set up times throughout the summer of 2014 to interview those who
were interested in participating. A total of 186 producers representing 45 of 50 states
were contacted, three times each, and throughout the summer 32 of them responded,
saying they were interested in the study. Once they responded, the researcher attempted
to set up an interview time that would work for them the following week. On several
occasions, the respondent never replied to agree on a time or was not available at the
agreed upon time. In the end, 20 producers were interviewed, 3 from the Fertrell contact
list and 17 from the EatWild website. These 20 do not necessarily represent the pastured
pork industry as a whole, in part because there are still many producers who do not use
email or do not use it frequently, or who otherwise chose not to respond, and who
therefore would not have had the opportunity to participate. Those represented here do,
however, represent a significant portion of the geographic diversity of the industry, and
they provide a wide breadth of production styles and methodologies. Those interviewed
represent different ways of pasturing pigs and different views of what it means for pigs to
be on pasture, as well as different beliefs about the supplemental feed the pigs should
receive (often seen as a measure of diversity in pastured pork production). For example,
some producers fed conventional feeds to their pastured pigs, while others fed certified
organic feed, certified non-GMO feed, and everywhere in between. The differences in the
types of feed provided to the pigs was just one distinguishing factor amongst producers.

On average, interviews lasted for 1 hour. Producers were asked questions about
their histories, on-farm practices and production methods, their costs and profits, their
current markets and barriers to entering other markets, and their opinions about the future
of the pastured pork industry. The goal was to better understand producers backgrounds,
current production techniques, and marketing structure for their products in order to help
create a fuller understanding of the participants and issues embedded within the pastured
pork industry.
All of the interviews were recorded and transcribed, and the data was sorted and
analyzed according to questions and sub-questions asked. After cataloguing and
recording answers to explicit questions, the researcher re-read each interview, looking for
themes that appeared that were not necessarily explicit or direct answers to the original
questions posed. All responses and themes were coded, organized, and together used to
generate an analysis of issues facing the pastured pork industry. The final result of the
interviews is a preliminary analysis of the pastured pork industry, including an analysis of
the thoughts and concerns of the pastured pork producers interviewed, that gives a
synopsis of the current-day trials and tribulations of being a pastured pork producer in the
United States and the potential for the industry in the future.

Figure 1: Geographical Illustration of Participant Locations

1
1
1
1

1
3

1
1

1
2

(Corn Belt)

Source: www.fasttrackteaching.com

Results
Producer Histories and Motivations

Of the 20 farmers interviewed, 14 of them (70%) were full-time farmers and 12

(60%) came from a farming/agricultural background. Of those 12 with an agricultural
background, 4 producers had been conventional farmers of some sort before making the
transition to their pastured system. This could mean they were conventional pork
producers, or they could have simply been conventional producers of other crops or
5

products. When asked about their inspirations and how they learned about pastured pork,
65% said entered pastured pork production due to negative personal experiences with the
conventional pork industry, such as personal diet-related health problems, living next to a
conventional animal production system, or personally witnessing conditions within a
conventional system 45% attributed much of their knowledge to Joel Salatin, owner of
Polyface Farm and a prolific writer and speaker about the benefits of pastured animal
production. Many stated that without Salatins help and influence, they would not be
raising pastured pork today. Interestingly, participants did not name any other authors as
influences, and many even gave Salatin credit for a majority of their customer base,
stating that his writings and farm tours have influenced consumer interest in pastured
pork as well. It is clear that Joel Salatin and Polyface Farm are strong influences and
motivators in the pastured pork world.

Table 1.
Inspiration
Personal Experience
Joel Salatins Books
Other Farmers
Omnivores Dilemma

# of Producers Who Attributed Their

Knowledge to it
13 (65%)
9 (45%)
4 (20%)
2 (10%)

Farmers were able to attribute their inspiration to more than one source.

In turn, the producers interviewed generally felt very strongly about their
commitment to pastured pork production. One interviewee, for example, stated that
Whether were on this farm or on our smaller family farm, we know that we will always
raise pastured meat until we die. Even at a nursing home, were going to convince them
to raise pastured meats. Its just too important (Interview 10, June 28, 2014). Another
6

commented on the process of deciding to pursue pastured pork production, and grounded
it, in particular, in an historical sense of regional agriculture:
I had found an ag census from our town from the 1830s I think, I know it was
prior to the Civil War. And in my county at that time there were a few hundred
beef cows in the county, but there were thousands of sheep and pigs. Everybody
had 10-15 pigs. I figured that it made sense that if folks were able to do it 150-200
years ago, it must make sense in our area (Interview 16, July 24, 2014.)

Production methods
a. Operation
The first question posed to producers about their production methods was whether
they raise sows or feeder pigs and the types of breeds they were raising. 60% of
producers said they were raising sows, and the number of sows ranged from 2 to over 30.
In general, sows farrow twice a year, producing 10-12 piglets in a litter for strong
reproducers. With those sows, participants indicated that they produced anywhere from
10 market pigs a year to over 700. Of that 60% raising sows, all participants said they had
a boar for reproductive purposes and that they did not use artificial insemination (AI).
This is striking because virtually all of conventional pork producers use AI (Aleu, 2014).
The AI system is easier to manage and can be put on a time schedule relative to each
sows heat cycle, rather than allowing the boar and sow to choose (or not choose) to mate
during a heat. Using AI also means you decrease the risk of potential outside PED
contamination. Most of the pastured producers indicated that having a boar seemed
natural and they wanted to keep their herd management as close to natural as possible;
however the reason some other producers chose a boar over AI is unknown. AI is also a
skill that must be learned, meaning the farmer most likely will have to go to a training

class in order to perform it correctly, and some producers mentioned there were not many
options available to them to learn the skill. Several producers indicated that they are
considering the AI route; however none of them had attempted it as of the time of the
interviews. Of those participants who indicated that they may start AI with their sows, a
majority indicated that this was due to the PED virus and a desire to ensure their pigs
genetics against the virus.
The remaining 40% of participants purchase feeder pigs. However, several of
these producers indicated that they were finalizing plans to start the sow/farrowing
process themselves in the upcoming year. This was, similarly, largely due to the increase
in feeder pig prices that have been occurring due to the PED virus. Questions were not
asked specifically about the PED virus, so the remarks about it came mostly from offhand comments.
Table 2.
# of Sows
1-10
11-20
21-30
31 +

Table 3.
# of Feeder Pigs Purchased / Year
1-20
21-50
51-100
100+

# of Producers Using that Number of

Sows
5 (25%)
5 (25%)
1 (5%)
1 (5%)

# of Producers Buying that Number of

Feeders
3 (15%)
1 (5%)
2 (10%)
2 (10%)

b. Breeds
When we got into this business, it wasnt to cater to the high-end or chefs and
restaurants. We got into this business to be comfortable and to be able to sell to anyone
who wants to buy our products from us. Why should only the well-to-do be the only ones
who eat well?
(Interview 13, July 9, 2014)
Perhaps the most well-known of the heritage pig breeds is the Berkshire, getting
its rise in fame from chefs across the world using the meat in high-end restaurants (NPR,
2013). Many associate the breed with a pastured or organic product, and many producers
interviewed named the Berkshire breed as one of the genetics that they had in their pig
crosses. The Berkshire is said to have a desired fat marbling for chefs as well as a
superior meat taste. In terms of production, Berkshires pasture well, and they are not
prone to sunburn which makes them a good fit in many hotter climates, although they are
known for rooting more than some breeds. Of the producers interviewed, 45% said they
focused on raising a purebred pig of any genetics (55% indicating that genetics were not
important to them as a producer), but among them the Berkshire was a popular choice.
Given that there are many other heritage breeds to choose from, the Berkshire reputation
(and the marketing potential it attracts) may have something to do with their choice.
Besides the Berkshire, the Gloucestershire Old Spot was also represented fairly
well amongst specific breeds raised by producers interviewed. The Gloucestershire Old
Spot is an endangered heritage breed, which many pastured pork producers feel they
should support in terms of maintaining a diversity of livestock genetics in the pig
9

population (Livestock Conservancy, nd). They are known to be excellent mothers and
have a distinctive taste and quality to their meat. Producers who raised them also
emphasized how these pigs look on pasture, such as how their coat colors contrast the
outdoors. Many stated that their pigs were the most popular attraction on the farm for
customers, and having distinctive coloring to their coats was part of what made them eyecatching. Often times, heritage breed pigs are black and white (such as Berkshires and
Gloucestershire Old Spots), a burnt orange/brown (such as Tamworths and Red Wattles),
or a mix of them. Many pigs also have spots which producers argued made them uniquely
appealing to children.
On an interesting note, 80% of the producers interviewed said that breed did not
bring an additional price premium for the product. So while almost half of the producers
focused on raising a specific breed, only 20% of those interviewed thought that it made
any difference in terms of the final product price. Thus, presumably, their interest in
raising specific breeds has more to do with these customer interest attributes, or other
production or marketing factors outside of price.

Table 4.
Breed
Berkshire
Gloucestershire Old Spots
Tamworth
Red Wattle
Doesnt Matter (Mixed Cross Breeds)

Number of Producers Raising Purebred

4 (20%)
3 (15%)
1 (5%)
1 (5%)
11 (55%)

10

c. Feed
To many producers, one important part of how they raise their pigs is the feed
they give. Of those interviewed, 35% said they use a certified organic feed, 35% said they
use a traditional feed with non-certified grains (non-certified of any sort), 20% reported
that they use a non-GMO certified feed, and 10% indicated that they use a non-soy feed.
It is interesting to note that not all of the producers using the certified organic or certified
non-GMO feeds were actually certified organic/non-GMO livestock farms. The feed was
something they felt they needed to do, irrespective of the overall certification. Many
indicated that it was a personal preference; they equated a healthy and sustainably raised
pig with certified grains. Others argued that they saw their production systems as
organic without the label, so they should be feeding grains that were in line with that
methodology.
Table 5.
Type of Feed Used
Traditional Non-Certified Grains
Certified Organic
Non-GMO Certified
No-Soy Formula

# of Producers Using that Feed

7 (35%)
7 (35%)
4 (20%)
2 (10%)

d. Market weight
Producers indicated that market weight ranged from 200 to 400 lbs. per hog,
depending on the breed as well as customer preferences. The largest percentage of
producers (35%) indicated that it took them 6 months to take their hogs from birth to
market weight. 25% indicated that it took them 7 months on average, and the remaining
45% indicated that it took from 8 months to over a year to get their hogs to market
11

weight. This variability does not exist in the conventional system, as pigs are bred and
fed to be brought to market in a 6-month time frame. As pigs generally take longer to
grow to market weight on pasture than on the concentrated feed used in conventional
systems, those pastured pork producers on par with conventional systems are likely either
processing their market pigs at a lower weight, or they may have particularly successful
genetics or management techniques that have allowed the pigs to gain weight more
rapidly than other pastured producers. For those producers whose pigs took longer to
reach market weight, it is possible that their markets were not only in pork but also in
lard. It is common in pigs produced for lard, which many pastured pigs are, to take a
longer time getting to market weight because of the need to develop both the muscle and
fat required.

Table 6.
Time from Birth to Market Weight
6 months
7 months
8 months
10 + months
N/A

# of Producers Indicating it took that

Long
7 (35%)
5 (25%)
4 (20%)
2 (10%)
2 (10%)

e. Processing
Many studies have determined that one of the biggest obstacles to pastured
livestock sales is the availability of processors for small producers (NASDA, 2009). This
may still be the case, but of those interviewed on pastured pork, almost all had local
processors to work with. Most of the producers interviewed (85%) noted that they had no
12

trouble finding a processor for their pigs. For the remaining 15% of producers, 1 had
difficulty finding a nitrate-free processor and 2 had problems finding a USDA certified
inspector. These numbers are relatively low, which indicates that overall, processing may
not be a huge area of concern for most of these pastured pork producers.
It may be that those established in the small livestock business are finding success
at keeping processors, but perhaps newer producers are struggling to find a processor to
suit their needs. It could also be related to the fact that many of these producers are
selling direct, where a USDA inspected facility is not required for in-state sales. If a
producer wishes to sell directly to local markets, they have to meet state standards for
processing, versus USDA standards if they wish to sell in broader retail markets
(Personal Interview, Pastured Pork Producer, June 2014). Many believe that state
standards are less strenuous than USDA standards (Personal Interview, Pastured Pork
Producer, June 2014). If more producers were focusing on retail or individual cuts, they
might have had more issues finding a processor. It is even possible that they originally
focused on direct to consumer or to restaurant sales in part because of the relative ease of
finding a processor for those markets, although this was not mentioned in interviews.
Many producers did say, however, that they are not actually interested in selling retail
cuts, so this is not an area of concern for them, but it may present a challenge if they
decided at some point to change their sales strategy.

13

Economic concerns
a. Costs and profits
Before the interview process, producers were asked to calculate a basic estimate
for their cost of producing pastured pork products. This cost of production included
breeding costs (boar, AI, or feeder pigs), supplemental feed, equipment (fencing, feeders,
waterers, artificial shade, etc.), processing, and transportation (transport to and from
processing, and/or the transport of feeder pigs after purchase). Note that while most
participants provided this information, 25% did not provide cost of production estimates.
In a majority of those cases, these were producers who were raising their own grain and
feed, and said they were not able to ascertain how much their feed costs truly were. Most
estimated their feed costs were somewhere between $250 and $400 per pig, but for the
purposes of this analysis, unless a producer answered with certainty about their costs of
production, their answers were classified as not available. Among the participants that
did have a cost estimate for their feed, it was tied evenly amongst several different cost
categories (for full costs of production, see Table 8).

Table 7.
Feed Costs (per pig)
$101-$150
$151-$200
$201-$250
$251-$351
$351-$450
$451 +
N/A

# of Producers Citing that Feed Cost

2 (10%)
3 (15%)
3 (15%)
0
4 (20%)
3 (15%)
5 (25%)

14

Even with these varied costs for feed (and for production overall), on average
producers indicated they earned a 15-20% profit margin on their pastured pork; however
the price per hog varied dramatically across the various regions of the US and by how the
hog was being sold. In some markets producers sold individual cuts at higher retail
prices, while others sold through more direct channels, getting less money per hog but
having the potential to sell the hogs more quickly. Individually wrapped cuts sold in retail
settings averaged a 10-15% price premium over those cuts sold directly from the farm. In
addition, producers on the West Coast and in the Northeast were able to sell their hogs
for a higher price premium than those in the Midwest (on average $900-$1000 per hog
versus $600-$800 per hog, respectively). Many of these (West Coast and Northeast)
producers did have a higher cost to raise their pigs, so while the profit margins were
slightly higher in these regions, it was not as substantial a difference as first anticipated.
When the numbers were analyzed, it appeared that those on the West Coast and in the
Northeast attained, on average, an 18-22% profit margin, while those in the Midwest
attained a 15-18% profit margin.
In this area of profit margins, two trends in particu stood out. First, producers
who sold less than 10 hogs per year and those who sold over 150 reported a lower profit
margin than those selling between 10 and 150 hogs per year. The question of profit
margin was posed in terms of dollars, with the average producer of 10 hogs and 150 hogs
making a profit margin of around 15% on average in comparison to the cost of
production, versus those in the other production categories averaging 18-22% profit
margins. This is interesting because it may demonstrate a particular scale of profitability
for the industry. Second, producers who were using feeder pigs (rather than breeding
15

sows themselves) showed less of a profit margin than those using a sow/farrow method of
production, on average. This may indicate a better insulation from outside influences on
production (like feeder pig price fluctuations) among those breeding sows. Overall
however, the data does indicate that the pastured pork market is profitable across
producers and that farms can get into the business with relative ease and make a profit.

Table 8.
# of Hogs
Finished

# of Producers
in Category

0-10
11-20
21-50
51-75
76-100
101-150
151+

2
2
4
3
3
2
4

Average Cost of
Production per
pig (Dollars)
$800
$750
$650
$500
$600
$750
$700

Average Sale
Price per pig
(Dollars)
$925
$900
$800
$625
$765
$925
$875

% Profit Margin
(Average)
14%
17%
18%
20%
22%
19%
15%

Note: 5 producers did not provide costs of production, so the averages are calculated without them. Calculations also do not take into
account variances in production methods, but do include feeder pig cost/boar cost, feed costs, environmental & equipment costs,
transportation costs, processing costs, and marketing costs.

c. Relative profitability
We saw there was a place for them [pastured pigs] on the farm and we thought that we
could move the product. Turns out we were right on both accounts. Weve been wrong
about plenty of stuff in the past, so it sure was nice to get something right.(Interview 19,
August 18 2014)

In terms of profitability, producers were asked to think of pastured pork in

relation to any other products they produce on the farm, and then rank where pastured

16

pork places in their profits. When asked, 55% of producers said that pastured pork was
their most profitable product, 35% said it was their second most profitable or that it tied
for most profitable with another product being produced, and 10% said it had a low
profitability. Producers who indicated that pastured pork was their second most profitable
product or that it tied for highest profitability listed beef and eggs as the products with
which it competed most heavily although one producer indicated that dairy was their
porks main competitor for highest provider of farm income. Several producers indicated
that their profitability in pastured pork was particularly high more because of the smaller
daily time commitment for pigs than for other livestock in other words, that for them it
was more about reduced cost than it was about high profits. Others, who saw lower
profits from pastured pork, indicated that they are opting to produce a product that has
high demand, even if the profitability is less, because they are hoping to attract customers
that will cross-purchase from them (e.g. come to the farm looking to buy pork, but end up
buying beef as well).
Producers were then asked to decide what they got the best price premium for,
whether it be wholesale (quarters, halves, and wholes), individual cuts, or boxed
packages by weight (customers do not pick the pieces they want, but rather purchase
assorted bulk pork cuts by the 20 or 30 lb. boxed weight). Note that in the pastured pork
industry, wholesale refers to the sale of quarter, half, or whole hogs that are processed
and butchered through the producer. It does not refer to the sale of live hogs for slaughter,
but rather to larger quantities of pork being sold (by weight) to an individual customer
(Personal Interview, Pastured Pork Producer, July 2014). In other industries, this is
sometimes called direct sales. Wholesale received the most votes, with 55% of producers
17

saying that they made the most money by selling quarter, half, or whole hogs. Individual
cuts ranked next (even though individual cuts usually earn more per pound), claiming
35% of the vote, and boxes by weight ranked third with 10% of the vote. This may be
skewed however, because the proportion of producers selling boxed packages by weight,
for example, was significantly less than the other two production styles. Only 2 of the 20
producers indicated that they were selling boxes of frozen meat by weight, and both
producers rated boxes as their most profitable pastured pork stream (because they were
able to sell more of their least popular cuts with only a few of their more popular cuts
included, versus wholesale in which sellers cannot distinguish the least and most popular
cuts). Thus, boxed packages may or may not be less profitable; rather they are perhaps
just less prevalent among those interviewed4.
These differences in profitability and sales choices among producers bring up
important questions about market demand and expansion. In many instances, finding a
product that has significant demand can be more important to a producer than focusing on
the most profitable product available, as long as they are making some profit margin.
This is because many pastured pork producers would rather build and grow a customer
base to ensure a steady demand in moderately profitable products than to focus on higher
profit products where sales are not as steady. The same can be said with producers
choosing to wholesale their products for less of a profit margin rather than focusing on
individual cuts, such as hams, which bring a larger profit margin but have a significantly
greater seasonal fluctuation in terms of demand. Some of the producers interviewed were

There was no data collected specifically on the dollar values of boxed or other packages, only percentages
of the amount sold in this format versus others.

18

thinking along these lines, increasing their efforts toward either wholesale or restaurants
which will allow them to sell more pork at a time, even if less profit is made per sale, in
order to ensure that demand remains steady.
When asked, 75% of producers said they sold value-added products, such as
bacon, sausage, and ham, in addition to cuts of meat. They noted that while this was a
factor in their decisions about profitability of the product overall, it was not a large factor
in their assessment of price premiums because these cuts are considered part of the mix
of cuts sold (in boxes, as cuts, or wholesale) and not a separate specialty product.
Of the producers interviewed, 85% said that their markets are expanding and that
they anticipate expanding their herd size. This, despite the fact that only 45% of
producers said that pastured pork is their most profitable product. Many producers
explained that pastured pork is new for them and that they are still working on
developing a new and profitable market for the product. Because of this, they are willing
to expand their herd size and develop more sales avenues, even while their current
markets are still in development and they are still working on better management
techniques for the herd. Thus, after interviewing these pastured pork producers, it has
become clear that this question of how to balance profitability of product with stability of
market affects many of them, and that the solution often depends on the nature of each
producers individual market and preferences.

d. Sales and marketing

If you dont like what Im selling, Ill take you to the grocery store and personally buy
you anything you want. Thats the guarantee I tell everyone, and I havent had anyone
take me up on it yet. (Interview 14, July 10, 2014)
19

We believe in non-confinement systems, but youve got to find a market that understands
why youre doing it that way and what the benefit is to them. Thats a big challenge
The production side of problems are easier to solve than the marketing side. The
extension service and other services can tell you how to solve those problems, but
figuring out how to get the product marketed, well, youre pretty much on your own
there.(Interview 20, August 25, 2014)

While many of the pastured pork producers interviewed got their customer base
simply by word of mouth, there are a variety of ways that they are working on getting
new customers. 65% indicated that they are still using word of mouth to get customers,
and 65% said they were turning to the internet or their own website to generate new sales.
In addition to this, 35% said they are using social media, such as Facebook, Twitter,
Instagram, etc. to attract new customers, and 30% said they currently have a farm
newsletter that is sent out to customers.

Table 9.
Marketing Technique
Word of Mouth
Internet/Website
Social Media/ Facebook
Newsletter

# of Producers Using Technique

13 (65%)
13 (65%)
7 (35%)
6 (30%)

*Producers could cite more than one technique for getting new customers.

Many producers also indicated that they struggled with marketing and finding the
best ways to promote their products. One of the questions posed to them aimed to find
out what words they specifically used to advertise their products to potential customers.
20

Producers were not prompted with any word choices, they were simply asked what words
they use in marketing and their answers were recorded. While the list is extensive, some
of the most commonly used words or phrases were pastured at 85%, superior taste at
65%, and humanely raised at 55%. Other words or phrases used include local, organic,
natural, heritage breed, or no antibiotics/hormones, or invoked a feed-based rationale
(non-GMO, etc.), environmental attributes, or nutrient/human health attributes. All of the
producers interviewed used some combination of these words or ideas to convey their
product to both new and returning customers.

Table 10.
Word or Idea Used in Marketing
Pasture-Raised
Taste
Humanely Raised
Local
Feed-Based Rationale (non-GMO feed, etc.)
Heritage Breed
Environmental Reasons
No Antibiotics/Hormones
Nutrient Dense/Human Health
Natural
Organic

# of Producers Using the Word or Idea

17 (85%)
13 (65%)
11 (55%)
10 (50%)
10 (50%)
9 (45%)
8 (40%)
8 (40%)
5 (25%)
4 (20%)
3 (15%)

*Producers could cite more than one technique for marketing.

f. Markets
If the demand was there [for more hogs], I would strongly look into it. I want to push
this for all I can.(Interview 2, June 8, 2014)
Most people want to come out to the farm and see how were raising our animals, and if
they like what they see, that scores points. Then theyll try something and the taste and
flavor sells it. Im always amazed that we sell out of pork as opposed to the beef or the
21

chicken; the pork just sells. Theres such a demand for it.(Interview 20, August 25,
2014)

Producers indicated that the most commonly available markets for them to sell
their pastured pork products were on-farm sales (farm store), wholesale (halves or wholes
purchased before the time of slaughter), and restaurants. This is not surprising given the
nature of the pastured pork industry at present and the consumers who are purchasing the
product in general. According to producers, these customers are looking for high-quality
meat products that are raised in a specific manner and have a full-bodied taste. Customers
tend to purchase in bulk and freeze the product, and if they buy individual cuts, they are
typically looking for the primal cuts. Other available markets included farmers markets,
CSA/buyers clubs, and retail (frozen cuts in grocery stores). Many producers sell their
products in more than one market, and those overlaps are recorded below.

Table 11.
Available Market

# of Producers Who Utilize

Market Currently

Wholesale (Pre-sold
Halves/Wholes)
On-Farm Sales (Farm Store)
Restaurants
CSA/Buyers Club
Farmers Markers
Retail (Frozen Cuts to Grocery
Stores)
No Plans for Expansion

14 (70%)

# Producers Who are

Looking to Expand into
that Market
3 (15%)

10 (50%)
10 (50%)
5 (25%)
4 (20%)
4 (20%)

3
4
3
0
2

(15%)
(20%)
(15%)
(10%)

10 (50%)

*Producers could cite more than one technique for getting new customers.

22

In addition to being asked about current markets being utilized, producers were
also asked about future markets, as included in Table 11, and where they would like to
expand their products into. The results were similar to the currently available markets,
with on-farm sales, wholesale, and restaurants leading the responses; however expansion
into a CSA or a buyers club was also of interest.
In terms of relationships between current and future market interests, those who
are currently selling their products wholesale were often those who wanted to expand to
sell their products to restaurants. A majority of farmers who sell their products on-farm,
however, were not interested in expanding beyond their present market. This may be
because their production is at the capacity of their land, or it may be because they have
enough sales to fill their individual financial need without the need to market their
product off-farm. 85% of producers indicated that their markets for pastured pork were
expanding and that they intended to increase their stock size to keep up with the market
increase, but only 50% said they were looking to expand into new markets. This may
indicate that many producers cannot keep up with current demand in the markets they
already service, much less find interest in expanding into new markets.

g. Growth
I think a generation from now, were going to see most consumers getting their pork
from small or medium sized farms because people are starting to see how bad the
conventional system is and why that cant continue. Weve still got a lot if growth to do
and well face plenty of challenges to get there, but I think thats where were
going.(Interview 4, June 15, 2014)
23

It can be argued that the pastured pork industry has not seen the growth that the
pastured (grass-fed) beef and (free-range/cage-free) poultry industries have seen in the
last decade (Hardesty, n.d.). Producers were asked, as part of this study, if they believed
the nationwide market for pastured pork was expanding, and then about potential reasons
for why the pastured pork industry in particular has not seen that same growth as other
pastured industries. In response to the nationwide growth of the pastured pork industry,
19 of 20 respondents said they believed the market was expanding overall. Even among
the 2 producers who did not see their personal markets expanding, they still felt that on a
nationwide basis the market was growing, just perhaps not for themselves personally.
When asked about potential reasons why the pastured pork industry has not seen
the growth that the other pastured meat industries have seen, there was no clear
consensus. 20% said that there was a lack of knowledge on the consumers part about
pork being clean, 20% thought the price of the final product influenced its lack of
growth, and 20% said that pork is still seen as a fat product so consumers are wary of it.
Other responses included religious beliefs, taste, lack of available processors to cut to
consumer specifications, and the fact that pastured pork is still fed grain unlike
ruminants. Interestingly, while the researcher hypothesized that the lack of a pastured
label would negatively influence the growth and development of the pastured pork
industry, no producers listed it as a reason they believed the industry has not seen
substantial growth (although lack of consumer knowledge could be interpreted as a
related reason). Instead, producers referred to reasons more related to the nature of pork
itself, which echo questions about recent declines in sales of conventional pork, than to
the nature of the product as pastured (USDA Ag Census, 2012).
24

Table 12.
Reason for Lack of Growth
Lack of Consumer Knowledge
Pork is Fat
Price of Final Product
Lack of Processors
Fed Grain (not 100% pasture)
Religious Beliefs
Taste

# of Producers Who Believe Sentiment

4 (20%)
4 (20%)
4 (20%)
2 (10%)
2 (10%)
1 (5%)
1 (5%)

*Producers could cite more than one technique for lack of growth.

h. Labeling and Certifications

We dont have labels for our pork since we sell to individuals. We can use the term
pastured however wed like for right now. I think the only thing Id be concerned about
[in relation to the creation of a USDA pastured definition] is if they lowered the bar for
other people. But at the same time, it could raise the bar for those who are using the term
and who really arent doing what theyre supposed to be doing.(Interview 16, July 24,
2014)

Certifications are a controversial topic to many pastured pork producers, as there

is no official pastured certification, and many of the producers interviewed felt that did
not need any certifications in order to be successful in marketing and selling their
products. Of those interviewed, 80% had no certifications, 10% were certified organic,
and 10% were Animal Welfare Approved. There was a common theme of trust cited
among the producers without certifications, stating that their consumers trusted them to
produce a quality product without the need for a third party certification. Many producers
have open-farm policies to ensure that their customers can see all of the inner workings
of the farm. This sentiment makes sense, given the research that highlights trust as a key
25

factor allowing for direct sale relationships with customers (Hinrichs, 2000; Sassatelli,
2001). Research on the topic has proven that greater trust leads to increased success in
direct sales marketing (Hinrichs, 2000). In addition to this, putting the inspection
responsibilities in the hands of the consumers has been proven to increase trust
(Sassatelli, 2001).
When asked, none of the producers that were interviewed said they had a direct
need for certifications; however 2 producers indicated they were looking into organic
certification, 2 indicated they were looking into Animal Welfare Approved, 2 were
looking into GMO Free certification, and 1 was interested in GAP certification, in order
to expand into a retail outlet. The producers looking into organic certification indicated
that they too were looking to expand into a retail setting, which would require a thirdparty certification. Those interested in the Animal Welfare Approved or the GMO-Free
certification indicated they were looking into it primarily for their own benefit. Many
producers believed that they were already meeting the requirements of the certifications,
and that they should move forward with the process of obtaining the certification either
for personal satisfaction or because they were giving themselves the option to move into
a market where one day a certification may be required.
Often times, pastured pork producers will obtain a third-party certification if they
intend to sell their products on a retail level (Marks Daily Apple, 2013). This occurs
because the consumers who would be purchasing their meat products will not have the
ability to easily visit the farm and therefore need more than trust to go on when
purchasing meat products. Thus it makes sense that many of those producers considering

26

retail are the ones considering certifications more than those who have plenty of sales
through their direct markets.
Producers were also asked specifically about the creation of a USDA definition
for the term pastured and if such a definition would be helpful to their production and
marketing. 85% of producers concluded that such a definition would not be helpful to
them because the term pastured has such a varied meaning among producers. As stated
previously, the USDA does not have plans to create a definition for pastured pork
because of the wide interpretations of the term. Many of the producers expressed a
similar sentiment: How do you define a concept that means something different
depending on where you go geographically? For example, in some states pastured
means raising pigs in a wooded area with access to shade trees and mud, while in other
areas pastured may mean raising pigs with only small-blade grass for forages and using
artificial shade huts. In both systems, the pigs needs can be met, and both systems can
successfully raise pastured pigs. But depending on a personal definition of the term
pastured could potentially be confusing, and a consumer may not interpret one style of
raising pastured pork as equivalent to another.
As described earlier, it had been hypothesized at the outset of this study that
because there was no official label for pastured pork, that the growth of the industry had
been subsequently stunted. After this research however, it seems clear that the lack of an
official label has not been an issue, at least for most of the producers interviewed.
Instead, they felt that lack of consumer knowledge, high product prices, and consumer
disinclination to eat pork in general were more substantive barriers. While I might argue
that lack of consumer knowledge and consumer understanding of a higher price point
27

might both be enhanced by the presence of an official label, producers themselves did not
necessarily see it this way.
In terms of consumer knowledge, for instance, producers interviewed were much
more likely to emphasize the importance of their production methodology, breed, and
supplemental feed used over worrying about having a clear definition of pastured that
was uniform across the US. It also appears that, at least according to producers,
customers in the current pastured pork sector base more of their purchasing decisions on
trust rather than on a concrete label, thereby further suggesting that the lack of an official
label has not particularly slowed the growth of the industry. However, it is still possible
that with a label, pastured pork production might more easily grow into the retail sector,
where trust does not play the same role, perhaps with new producers rather than those
already invested in and satisfied with wholesale markets.
It is also possible that, rather than the lack of a label or lack of more widely
available consumer information having served as a potential barrier to entry to new
producers, economic factors such as high feed costs, and therefore high product costs
(which are less of an issue with grass-fed beef fed only on pasture), may have also played
an important role in the slow development of the industry (Personal Interview, Pastured
Pork Producer, June 2014).

i. Umbrella Organization
Theres no help out there. I got everything from ACRES USA, I went to the pastured
pork school with Joel Salatin last year, but thats it. Theres nothing else out there for

28

help besides from people you know Theres nothing out there for pastured pork
producers.
(Interview 20, August 25, 2014)

At present, there is no nationwide umbrella organization for pastured pork like

there is for grass-fed beef (American Grass-Fed Association) or pastured poultry
(American Pastured Poultry Producers Association). Many producers are left to figure out
any problems on their own, without having resources available to them from other
producers. When asked about this, 75% of respondents said that they saw a need for this
type of an organization, and 60% said that they would join one if it was created.
Umbrella organizations serve several purposes for their members, and many of
the pastured pork producers interviewed indicated that they would be looking for a
pastured pork organization to serve them in a similar manner to other umbrella
organizations they knew of. Most were looking for a connection to other producers which
would allow for a larger forum for troubleshooting and for a new level of innovation in
production techniques. Others were looking for an organization that would conduct
scientific research in the field, specifically on points that the producers could then take to
their customers as evidence of the superiority of the pastured technique. Other responses
to the question of what producers would look for in an umbrella organization included
guidelines for humane protection standards for pork (such as floor space for housing and
pasture), funding for new producers, and marketing help.

29

Table 13.
What Producers are Looking for in an
Umbrella Organization
Forum for Connecting Producers
Scientific Research
Marketing Help
Funding for New Producers
Humane Protection for Pork

# of Producers Looking for This

Attribute
8 (40%)
8 (40%)
4 (20%)
2 (10%)
1 (5%)

Desire for such an organization is strong amongst the producers interviewed, and
many professed frustration that something like it did not already exist. Particularly when
producers were first setting up their operations and now when they have questions, they
are looking for someone to turn to for answers. It was interesting, however, that several
of the producers interviewed (3 of the 15 who saw a need for this kind of umbrella
organization) said that this pastured pork umbrella organization should exist, but they
were not interested in joining it. When pressed, almost all of them said that they would
have wanted an organizations potential assistance when they were first starting out, but
now as a more established producer, they were no longer interested. More often though,
producers were still interested in joining an umbrella organization, even if they were
established producers, so they could share their experiences with others.

Discussion and Analysis of Data:

According to producers interviewed, production of and interest in pastured pork is
expanding across the nation. Producers perceive this demand as originating from
customers interested in high-quality meat from happy pigs living in their natural
environments. Some customers are looking for certifications, but according to producers
30

interviewed, a majority work on trust to know that their farmer is producing a product
that they believe in. According to producers, many placed more emphasis on buying a
local pork product over a pastured product.
Farmers are successfully selling at a variety of markets, and responding to a
variety of regional and specific demands for cuts and flavor; however, most producers
interviewed found it especially profitable to sell to what the pastured pork industry
considers wholesale markets (halves and whole pigs). The scale of production also
influences profitability within the pastured pork industry, with producers who are too
small or too large finding fewer profits than those in the middle. The impacts of feed
costs and feeder pig prices are the primary factors influencing the profit margins of the
industry and while some producers are focusing on growing into newer retail markets, a
majority of pastured pork producers have found that they are still unable to meet the
demands of their current, localized markets, and thus see little need to expand into larger
ones.
The original hypothesis of the study, that the lack of a label for pastured pork has
been a major obstacle to the industrys growth (as compared to grass-fed beef or freerange or cage-free poultry), has not been supported by the producers interviewed; rather,
producers are still struggling with economic obstacles, and with finding new ways to
market their products and sell them for a profit. Nevertheless, many believe that pastured
pork is one of their most profitable products, that there is overall growth in the pastured
pork market, and that it can be expected to continue growing into the future.
Among these findings, several stand out as particularly important or relevant to
the overall discussion of the pastured pork industry, especially as they relate to this
31

studys original research questions about the future growth of the pastured pork industry.
Many of these areas were touched upon in previous parts of the paper, but they are
worthy of note here as well. These areas include a discussion of production scale, feed
choice, and definitions of the term pastured.

a. Scale
The pastured pork industry is transforming into what many would consider a
successful niche market endeavor. Even though the growth has not been as strong up
until now as one might have expected, 85% of producers interviewed said that they felt
the industry is expanding, echoing trends being seen across the nation in terms of demand
increases. Pastured pork producers still face their own struggles in terms of
communicating their production practices and finding the right markets, but the previous
research cited as well as the current research presented here indicates that they are
successfully defining their own scale of production and of success.
This level of success varies with a producers ability to produce and market their
products well. While the present research indicates that most are succeeding in creating a
profit for themselves in pastured pork, there are still some who see it as their least
profitable endeavor. For these producers, finding ways to adjust their production and/or
marketing techniques is extremely important if they want to find similar success to those
who are currently meeting adequate profit margins. A key area where this comes into
play may be in the number of hogs produced per year. In particular, producers
interviewed who sold less than 10 hogs per year and those who sold over 150 saw a lower
profit margin than those selling between 10 and 150 hogs per year. This is a typical
economic phenomenon where both being too big of a producer as well as being too small
32

of a producer is less profitable than being an average sized producer, and is common
among other agricultural industries as well (Lacy, 2012). Both these smaller and these
larger producers saw increased costs associated with their final product that they were not
able to pass along to customers while maintaining a steady market. Smaller producers
working with smaller baseline budgets are for their part not able to absorb shifts in costs
as well as larger producers do. They dont qualify for bulk discounts for large purchases
of feed or feeder pigs, and often have to travel further to a processor who can take their
smaller batches of pigs. On the other hand, larger producers often stated they needed
more acreage for more pigs and either faced high land prices or more environmental
degradation to overcome. While larger producers tend to have a bigger budget, they were
also more likely to sell wholesale and recoup less of their costs per pig in exchange for
selling a greater volume.
Producers who were using feeder pigs (rather than breeding sows themselves)
also showed less of a profit margin than those using a sow/farrow method of production,
on average. Before the prices of feeder pigs began rising, thanks in large part to the PED
virus, these two methods were cost equivalent in terms of production costs. Before the
rise in feeder pig prices, a producer would still have more expense upfront to purchase
feeder pigs (albeit not as severe as it is currently) but they did not have to pay to overwinter the pigs and pay for the expense of rising feed costs, particularly corn (Elam,
2012). In a sow/farrow operation, in contrast, producers had to provide feed and shelter
(and sometimes heat, depending on the climatic area) to the sows even when they are not
gestating or nursing piglets. These costs tended to even out, though in general the costs
were more consistent throughout the year (i.e. less seasonal) with the sow/farrow
33

operation. However now with the increase in feeder pig costs, many producers have had
to either face a lower profit margin or have transferred much of that increased cost onto
the final product. A similar scenario has unfolded with certified grains used in feed,
particularly grains that are certified organic. Although the price for organic feed grains
has always been higher than for conventional feeds, and the recent increase in price for
organic feeds has been more gradual than the increase in prices for feeder pigs,
nevertheless disproportionate increases in the price of organic feeds has been a major
concern for many of the producers trying to source organic grains and keep their prices
reasonable for their customers. Producers using organic grains have been able to cite this
as a reason for a higher price premium for their products, but with their markets currently
already at the top for what many consumers are willing to pay, the price fluctuations in
organic grains may be something producers have to take on themselves, rather than
transposing onto the consumer, in order to keep sales.
As the PED virus is studied and a vaccine is produced to control it, and as organic
grains grow in popularity and the supply potentially increases (many producers indicated
a consumer demand for organic or non-GMO grains), these associated costs may
diminish. However as of now, producers using these inputs are likely to face still more
increases in their costs of production in the future.

b. Feed
Because many consumers have learned about pasture-raised meats through their
exposure to grass-fed beef (which is not fed any grain), most producers interviewed
emphasized that they regularly spoke at length with customers to educate them on the
34

supplemental grains their pigs are fed. Many of these pastured producers put a heavy
emphasis on explaining the type of grains they were feeding the pigs and what
certifications the feed had, as a way to emphasize to consumers the different
considerations involved in pasturing pigs as compared to beef.
As for the specific kinds of supplemental feed used, some producers felt that if
they were going to pasture their pigs, then the feed they supplement should meet the same
rigorous standards they had personally set for their pastures. Others felt, instead, that
since supplemental feed is a given in the pastured pork world, they should simply feed to
fill a nutritional need without the need for specialty grains. There were several instances,
however, where customers had placed a demand on producers for specific grains. At least
2 of the producers interviewed had made a transition to certified organic grains or were in
the process of making the transition to them due to customer demand. In another instance,
however, the producer surveyed his/her customers and found an overwhelming response
not to switch to certified organic grains due to the price increase.
What is interesting here is that because many of the pastured pork markets are
smaller direct markets, customers can have a larger or more direct say in how their food
is produced than they can in larger retail markets. Presumably for many consumers, this
is exactly the point of buying local food and knowing your farmer. While some may
argue that larger markets can also respond to customer demand, smaller markets, such as
many of those available in the pastured pork industry, tend to have a better capability
(and speed) of responding to individual consumer demands and preferences. It is similar
to shopping at a small family-run establishment versus a nationwide chain store. Both

35

will listen to and evolve with consumer preferences, but the smaller establishment is
likely to do it on a much quicker and more individualized level.

c. Defining Pastured
Interestingly, many producers reported that their consumers placed a greater
importance on purchasing their product because it was local than because it was pastured
(although this is not necessarily reflected in the number who market their product as local
versus pasture-raised). Many producers attributed this to the disjointed nature of the
concept of pastured as compared to the reality of the production method. Producers
stated that many potential consumers think of pastured pork along the same lines as they
see grass-fed beef, where no additional feed supplements are necessary. When they find
out that the pigs need to eat more than just grass and forage, they are often confused as to
how the pig can be considered pastured.
In order to deal with this confusion, say producers, many consumers have decided
that purchasing a locally produced product is more important than a pastured product.
Still other producers believed that by seeing the pigs firsthand out on pasture, customers
were able to dissolve their mental differences between their personal definition of
pastured and the realities of it and better understand how the pastured pork system
functioned. Many producers said they use photographs and videos of the pigs on their
farm to market their products and show the lifestyle of the pigs on pasture. They believe
that this is the strongest way to educate a potential customer on pasturing and show them
how their methodology works. It also serves to educate customers on the pigs themselves
and how the supplemental grains play into their diets. Many producers indicated that they
36

do not care if a consumer prioritizes local over pastured; however they did still want
consumers to understand the benefits of raising and eating a pastured pork product.
The majority of producers interviewed indicated that they were not interested in
having an officially recognized definition of pastured. Many believed that it was their
job as a producer to educate their customers on what pastured means, instead of just
having a label on their products that showed they met a specific criteria in production.
Producers emphasized the importance of having strong relationships with their
customers, and a part of that came from the customers trust that the producer was
producing a product in the ways they had been told. One producer said I dont need a
third party certification; my customers are like first-party certifications. If they see
something they dont like on my farm, they wont buy from me and Ill go out of
business. It was hypothesized that the pastured pork industry was not seeing the growth
that other alternative meats were due to the lack of a standardized label for the product.
However, after interviewing these producers, it is clear that this is not the case, in their
opinions. This is significant because it indicates that there are other factors that may be
more important in understanding the relatively slow growth of the pastured pork industry
on a nationwide basis. In addition, the industry does seem to currently be growing, at
least for these producers on a localized level.
For now, most of the producers interviewed were happy with these levels of
growth and with their use of direct customer sales. As described, many farms are open
for tours and visits, and this in combination with quality products, say producers, helps to
create that trust and a long-lasting partnership that have been highlighted in other forms
of direct sales (Hinrichs, 2000; Sassatelli, 2001). There are some producers who
37

indicated, however, that a pastured label would help to ensure that everyone was meeting
the same standards of production, at least if the industry starts to expand. Despite
producers general lack of interest in a pastured label, I suspect that the issue of a
pastured label will most likely become a larger question if the industry continues to
expand, particularly for new entrants to the sector or for those faced with competitors that
are making similar pastured claims without following a strict set of production methods.

Conclusion:
At the outset of this study, I had thought that pastured pork producers in todays
market would be faced with a difficult decision: Do they stick to pursuing smaller
markets or do they try to expand into larger ones? This research suggests that many
current producers are not yet faced with this question; instead they are still working to
meet their local demand. For those who are looking to expand, often times continuing in
the smaller markets is the most logical option since they already understand the demand
for product within those markets, and they know the process of selling in those arenas.
Expanding into a nationwide retail setting is an option only for those who can meet
expanded volume requirements, which includes very few of the producers interviewed
here. If there were interest in a nationwide retail market, farmers may be better served by
joining together under one label to produce and sell their products according to the same
production techniques. This would allow farmers to produce the number of pigs they feel
capable of without having to push beyond their feasible limits in order to reach a
nationwide market.

38

While grass-fed beef and pastured poultry industries do benefit from having
standardized labels to communicate their production practices to the larger public, the
creation of a pastured definition and a pastured label for pork is not something which
most pastured pork producers felt was either necessary or which had inhibited the growth
of the industry thus far. Indeed it seems that right now, the lack of a label does not seem
to be constraining their growth. The markets into which these producers sell operate on a
more direct producer-to-consumer model, making a label seem, perhaps, like unnecessary
duplication for attributes such as trust that, they argue, form the current basis for
purchasing decisions.
Results from this study support the idea that while many producers are
considering expansion, they are considering expanding their current sales or adding a
new line of direct sales rather than adding, say, new retail markets. And those producers
who are considering entry into retail markets are, in fact, considering new certifications
that would clearly communicate their production practices to new customers with whom
they would not have direct contact. As such, it is possible that if and when demand
within producers current markets becomes more saturated, interest in a pastured label
would increase, if it meant access to broader retail and other new markets.
Without knowing exactly how much demand there is for pastured pork products,
with associated price premiums, on a nationwide retail level, it is impossible to say
whether or not producers may find a capped demand for their products if they eventually
enter retail. For now, many pastured pork producers cannot seemingly meet current
demands for product within their local markets. These producers are making a significant

39

profit in pastured pork, and while most believe that the industry is expanding as a whole,
they do not necessarily see an immediate need for new retail markets.
Whether or not the industry should eventually consider expanding into larger
retail markets is still up for debate; however after gathering the research presented here, it
seems likely that the pastured pork industry would do better for the moment to continue
serving the smaller markets producers are currently in. According to Ikerd, local sales
are currently addressing less than 5% of the market demand, yet 25-27% of the general
population expressed an interest in purchasing local, sustainably produced farm products
(Ikerd, 2001). It is clear that there is still room for further expansion of the pastured pork
industry within existing market outlets, and building trust and focusing on
communication with customers is a cornerstone, and perhaps one of the industrys most
important aspects.
These findings suggest several avenues for further research. One that might help
assess these future market questions, if they eventually do arise, would be to interview
current and potential pastured pork customers to see how closely their interpretation of
consumer demand matches that perceived by the producers, and to get a sense of the level
of pent-up demand that exists for pastured pork. Another avenue would be in measuring
the trust that consumers place in producers, to see how it parallels producers views of the
role of trust in their sales. A third would be to perform a more thorough supply chain
analysis for pastured pork to understand, in particular, how this product gets from
producer to consumer when not sold on-farm or direct to consumers or restaurants; for
example, how do actors who purchase and then add value and re-sell (rather than
consume) pastured pork respond to these questions of labeling and product
40

differentiation? A fourth would be to examine what level of product differentiation (in

the form of a label or otherwise) would expand the potential pool of consumers into nondirect or retail markets; in other words; will consumers recognize pastured pork as
enough of a differentiated product to purchase it over the conventional variety at a higher
price? Finally, it would be important to look at producer views of other niche market
labels like grass-fed or free-range both before and after they were adopted, as well as
their effects on product sales. This could be done in either the grass-fed beef or free-range
poultry industries, and might help to clarify whether, as current pastured pork producers
suggest, pork is somehow a different product that would not benefit as much from a
pastured label, or whether the pastured pork industry is simply not yet in the position to
feel the need for such a label.

41

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Appendix A
Interview Questions
1) What are the costs to the producer of pastured pork production?
1. What do these costs specifically include? Feed, environmental factors,
fencing, etc.
2) What markets are available to pastured pork producers?
1. Is it possible to get into a larger market or is local the only (or preferred)
option? Why?
3) What marketing techniques are available to pastured pork producers?
1. Is it more economical to sell whole hogs or to sell individual cuts?
2. How does breed affect price premiums?
4) What are the legal barriers a pastured pork producer faces in terms of labeling and
marketing?
1. Is there enough of a price premium to make obtaining organic certification
worth it?
2. Is there more market demand for organic pork over pasture-raised? Why or
why not?
3. Are there any pasture-raised certifications and what are their benefits and
challenges?
5) What are the advantages/disadvantages to producing pastured pork over other
methods?
1. Social factors, environmental, health, religious, etc.
6) Where do farmers that are currently practicing pastured pork production think the
45

market is heading?
1. Why hasn't the pastured pork industry seen the growth that the pastured beef
and chicken industries have seen?
7) Is there a support from pastured pork producers for an umbrella organization
similar to that for grass-fed beef or pastured poultry?
1. What are the challenges to the creation of such an organization?
2. Has it been tried in the past?
3. What advantages (or disadvantages) might be gained from having one?

46