This sturdy, yet lightweight sawhorse is adjustable over a wide range of heights. And can be knocked down for compact storage in just a few seconds. Je mention “sawhorse,” and most woodworkers ms think of four angled legs screwed to a 2xd, Is usually a fixed ) height, And it takes up alot P of space when not in use, Not exactly the handiest thing for a shop, But when Steve Johnson (our shop assistant) needed a new pair of sawhorses, he gol together with Kent Welsh (one of our project designers) to come up with a different design, see photo above. ADJUSTABLE. There were a couple features Steve wanted on the new sawhorse that our old sawhorse didn’t have. First it had to be adjustable soit eould doubleas “third hand” ta support longer wworkpioces when working with the drill press oF Dband saw, see photo A. Kent solved this with a design that allows the sawhorse to be lowered or raised for heights rang. B. Adjustable Height. To A. Work Support. This sawhorse can support a long workpiece when work ing at the drill press or band saw. height, just loosen the knobs on the sides and raise or lower the sawhorse. ShopNotes ing from around 30" to 45", see photo B. ‘COMPACT. Also, because our shop is beginning 19 get crowded, Steve wanted a sawhorse that would take up the least amount of space when not in use. Kent's solution wasa design that allowed the feet to be quickly removed. When knocked down, the sawhorse is narrow enough to hang on the wall or lean against it, see photo C. And to store the feet ‘when the sawhorse isn’t being used, Kent added a tray centered between the legs that’s large enough Wo hold both feet. When assembled, the tray ean be used to hold tools or containers of finish PORTABLE. Another nice thing about this saw- horse is it's made from common construction lum- ber. This type oflumber makes it sturdy and strong, yet light enough to be portable. And to make it even keasier to move from one power tool to the next (or out to the driveway), Kentadded a handy slot in the top to serve as a handle. - | adjust the C. Compact Storage. When i’s not in use, you can knock down the sawhorse and store the feet in the tray, No.17Aa EXPLODED VIEW OVERALL DIMENSIONS: Dror surroer e 2A" x BOMe"L x 50" Hardware 9 (10) #6 x34" Fh Woodecrewe © (48) #8 x 14" Fh Woodscrews 9 (2) %e"x2" ex Botts © (2) etx 20" Hex Bolte + (4)%e" touts © (8) Me" Flat |, Meckore © (4) 516" Plastic ~ Fknobs. wocosteth sie Bo sersercros Ae rua waster wei Groor Materials wooo Frame A Legs (2) Vax 5-24 FAD B Top (1) WexB- 2B¥e C Bottom (1) Wax 6 - 282 D Swretchere (2) Fax 5 2642 E Tray Bottom () Yan /2- 27 7 " F Feet (2) Wex BYs- 24 Cutting ram G Pads (4) Wex3Vs- Va Masonite Support NOTE Sh ebay AQbe Egat coneraueneN H Guide Strips (2) 2x 25-14 Masonite 1 Sides (2) Bax 5- 2002 a4 6'10N6 J Top Support (1) tVex5- 30%6 ec 7 Kiera) Be No.17 ‘ShopNotes| 5To avoid losing the washer, epoxy itto the T-knob, SHOP PROJECT Frame & Feet ‘The sawhorse consists of two main parts: a'rectangular frame that provides a stable platform, and an adjustable support that slides over the frame to allow you toadjust to different heights, FRAME PARTS. The frame is a simple four-sided box that con- sists of two lega (AJ, a top (B), anda bottom (C), see Fig. 1. ‘To make a sawhorse that, was both strong and lightweight, 1 ‘used %"-thiek No, 2 pine for the legs and 2” SPF (spruce, pine, or fir) dimension lumber for the top and bottom. ‘The legs sit in rabbets eut in the ends of the top and bottom, see Fig. 13, Before gluing and screwing ‘them in place, there's one more ‘thing to do. You need to ent two notehes centered on the length of the legs for a pair of stretehers (D) added later, see Fig. 2. These notehes are 5" long and cut to match the thickness of the stretchers, see Fig. 2a, ‘Tray. Next, to add lateral sup- port to the frame, I cut two stretehers (D) from %'-thick stock to fitthenotches inthe legs. These stretchers also create the sides of a storage tray that's a handy place to store hand tools and hardware. ‘To complete the tray, just cut a S4'thiek tray bottom (2) to fit between the stretchers (D) and the legs (A), see Fig. 2."Then gle and screw it in place. FEET.With the frame com- plete, all that’s left is to adda pair - 8. The feet sup- onnmeage sorrow oF Foor: curse" namin ‘On EASH ENO ShopNotes: ‘port the sawhorse and prevent it from from tipping over during use, The feet (P) are jast short lengths of 2x4 notched to fit un- der the frame. ‘To prevent the sawhorse from rocking on an uneven floor, pads (G) eat from V4" Masonite are glued to the bottom of each foot, see Fig. 8. To eliminate the sharp comers on the feet, a %4' cham- fer iseut on each end, see Fig. 3. ‘Since I wanted to be able to quickly attach or removethefeet, each foot is held in place with a hexhead bolt anda plastieT-knob (ora wing nut), see Fig. 3a, Finally, Ladded a T-nat to pre- vent the bolt from turning as the knob is tightened. No. 17Support With the frame complete, you could stop now if all you need isa fixed-height sawhorse. But since I wanted one that adjusted to different heights T added a U-shaped support that slips over the frame, see Fig. 4. GUIDES. The support rides on two guide strips (#1) screwed to tthe sides of the frame. They're eat from 14" Masonite to match tthe height ofthe frame, see Fig. 5. SIDES. Once the guide strips are in place, you ean begin work om the support. It eonsists of two sides and a top support. The sides (Marethesamewidthasthelegs. Bat to allow room for two corer braces added later, they're 316" longer than the height of the frame (2816°), see Fig. 4. SLOTS & GROOVES.The next step is to eut-a groove and aslot width of the frame, see Fig. 4, Start by first sliding the sup- in each side, see Fig. 4. ‘The This allows for rabbets that are port over the frame. Then locate groove iscut tofit over the guide cut to join the top support to the and drill @ hole through each leg strip and allows you to raise or sides. And Ye" for clearance so (A) for the 4a" hex bolt, see Fig. lower the support without twist- itll slide easily, see Fig. 6. 6a and margin tip at right. ‘ing. The slot is for a bolt and T- —_Finally,toprevent the support Here again, [used a T-nut to With the support knob that are used to lock the from racking, I added a brace (K) keep the bolt trom spinning. It pushed all the way support at the desired height, _in each corner, see Figs. 6 anda. sitsinacounterbored hole drilled down, use a brad ‘TOPSUPPORT.The sides are ASSEMBLY, Now youcanattach in each Masonite guide strip (H). point dil bit to fo- attached to a top support (J) the hardware that allows you to Finally, replace the support cate the hole for that’s ent 1%" longer than the adjust the height, see Fig. fa. and install the hardware. each hex bot. cur cenreneo SD stoore lar worn Tor surront WAN OUDE SF < te iis THICK " > ~*~ NOTE: wanoestarm ror Suman isn 9-H A Se SRIEDEL BaRMPER ON fa TGP AND BOTTOM 5 6 cut 4"-¥AE uve eAgiel,P osee weet Fo ‘CONTR THE CouIDE eras on WoT OF ee \ 0 ete woobecKew No.7 ShopNotes i