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Abstract: In the 1830s, the growth of Belgrade, the influence of master brewers from the Habsburg Monarchy, the beginnings of beer
consumption and the profits that could be gained from beer making aroused interest in starting small breweries in Belgrade. Traditional beverages, wine and brandy, were getting competition from beer, which became increasingly popular among Belgraders over time. Based on historical
sources and literature, this paper traces the history of hand-operated breweries in Belgrade during the 19th century as forerunners of the modern
beer industry.
Keywords: Weinhappl Brewery, Princes Brewery, Small Brewery, Kumanudi Brewery, Johan Weinhappl, Stevan Todorovi, Ignjat Vajfert
(Weifert), Filip Djordjevi, First Serbian Joint-Stock Brewery, Baloni family

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Summary: NENAD LUKI
HAND-OPERATED BREWERIES IN 19TH-CENTURY BELGRADE
Apart from the period from 1717 to 1739, when first hand-operated breweries were started in Belgrade by German
owners, the brewing of beer in Serbia began relatively late, in the 1830s. Most of the credit for popularizing the beverage
and for the development of beer making goes to merchants and master brewers from the Habsburg Monarchy, where brewing had had a long tradition. In 1839/40 Belgrade saw the opening of its first hand-operated brewery owing to a Czech,
Johan Weinhappl from Sremska Mitrovica, and although we have little information about its operations, it seems that credit
for the beginnings and further development of brewing should go to its founder. The economic potential of the brewing
business was soon recognized by the ruling Obrenovi family. In 1840 Princess Ljubica Obrenovi had a new and larger
brewery built, the so-called Princes Brewery. Prince Michael Obrenovi appointed a well-known master brewer from
Zemun, Konstantin Hadija the Younger, as its head. After the downfall of the Obrenovi dynasty, the brewery was leased
to different brewers, the last of whom, from 1865 to 1873, Ignjat Vajfert (Weifert), left an indelible mark in the history of
brewing in Serbia. He also owned the brewery at Panevo, and in 1873, with his son Djordje, started the first steam-powered
brewery in Belgrade. The Princes Brewery, leased out to different organizations and firms after it ceased operating in 1873,
was eventually pulled down in 1935. During the 1840s two other breweries operated in Belgrade: Milutinovi Brewery,
of which no closer information has survived, and Todorovi-Kumanudi Brewery, which ceased operating as early as the
1850s. Filip Djordjevi was yet another immigrant from the Habsburg Monarchy who left an indelible mark in the history
of brewing in Belgrade. In 1850 he had a brewery built on a lot between present-day Skadarska and Cetinjska streets. It
was popularly known as Filips or Small Brewery. The brewery subsequently changed several hands, but its best known
owner was certainly the Bajloni family. The Bajlonis owned it from 1888 to 1945, when it was nationalized. It continued
operating under the name of Pivara Beograd (Belgrade Brewery) until 1963, when it was integrated into the newly-started
Beogradska Industrija Piva or BIP (Belgrade Brewing Industry) as its Skadarlija brewing section. The Skadarlija section has
been disused as a brewery since it was sold by BIP in 2005. Filips Brewery ceased being operated by hand in 1884, but it
had a tradition and history at the time of industrial beer production, whereas all other hand-operated breweries were pulled
down, leaving no material trace behind.

ILLUSTRATIONS
Fig. 1 Beer making by hand (BIP Archive)
Fig. 2 Princes Brewery, early 20th century (Belgrade City Museum)
Fig. 3 Princes Brewery, 1920s

(V. Golubovi, Mehane i kafane Starog Beograda)
Fig. 4 Small Brewery, ca 1900 (Historical Archives of Belgrade)
Fig. 5 Small Brewery, 1920s (BIP Archive)

32