nts WU THE ART OF WOODWORKING WOODWORKING MACHINEShe Young Chemo Suchen i GOO.LOOF A Tuckerdude Scan 2004WORKSHOP GUIDE SAFETY TIPS + Wear appropriaio safety gear ‘when oparating a woadworking machine: salty olasses, aface shield for extra protection, and hearing protactors or earplugs. i there is:ne dust callecton system, wear a dust mask. For exotic woods, Such a8 ebony, use a respirator: the sawdust may causa an allergic reaction. + Make sure tat workshop Bighting and ventilation aro adequate and that work surfaoes are large ‘and sturdy. Read your owner's manual care fully betore operating ary machine, + Tie back long hal, fil up tong sleeves and avoid loose: iting clothing, Remove rings and ‘thor jowolry that ean eatch in moving parts. + Keep childran, onlookers and ots anaiy fram the work area. + Unplug.a machine betore ‘Partorming setup or installation ‘operations, = Concentrate on the jab; do not rush of take shortcuts. Never work when you are tired, stressed ar have. been drinking alechol ar using medications that induce drowsinacs. + Whenevar possible, clamp down the warkpiace, leaving both hands trae to perform an oparavian. + Find a comfortable stance; avoid over-reaching. ‘an unfamiliar vibration oF noise; have the machine serviced batore resuming operations, + Keep your work exon clean and ‘tidy; clutter can lead to accicents. ANATOMY OF A BOARD 'SHOP-MADE PUSH STICKS Push sticks for feeding stock into saw blades or jointer knives sire commoroialy available, but you can naaly make your cam using Y-inch phiwo0d ard a bard saw or eaber eaw. No one ips ideals Arsign a push stick that io comfartable to use and suitable for the machine and job at hard, A 5" angle between the handle and the base is best for most cute ora ‘table saw, wtle a smaller angle, with the harulle closer to the Irible i batter for feeding stock acrove a radial arm aw tabla, ‘The lotig base of a shoe-shaped push stick (bottorm, left) allows 1y5u to appty heavy downward pressure on a workpiece. For familar grip, use a faverize handoawrhandle 20.0 ‘template (bottom, right). Whatever the desian, make the notch in the base large eneugh 10 hold the stock, and yet erellew encuah sa support it without touching the table of the machine. Reep push sticks close at hand, ready to food ‘stock at the start or finish of a cut,‘THE ART OF WOODWORKING WOODWORKING MACHINESTHE ART OF WOODWORKING WOODWORKING MACHINES TIME-LIFE BOOKS. ALEXANDRIA, VIRGINIA ‘ST. REMY PRESS: MONTREAL + NEW YORKTTHEART OF WOODWORKING was produced by ST. REMY MULTIMEDIA INC. PRESIDENT — Plenee Levellé Serie Eor Pies Home-Douglas Series Ant Decor Franine Lica Senior itrs Mae Cassin (Tet) Heather Mills (Research) Ar-Dirwten Normand Boudreau, Satange Laberge Designer Luc Germain earch Bor Jim McRae Picture Edior — Chiistopbes Iackson CContiburngWistratory Ronald Dacepos. Christiane Utaien, albert Paget, Sto La Peete i. Admsraior Natale Watanabe Production Manager Michele Tarbide ‘Symon Coordinator Jean-bue Roy Phosopuphar Robert Chartier TIME® ‘Vime-Life Books i a division of Time Life Ene TIME LIFE INC. PRESIDENT and CEO: George Arandi ‘TIME-LIFEBOOKS: PRESIDENT. ohn D, Hall PUBLISHER/MANAGING EDITOR Nell Kagan DEDICATION TestionofTne Lie Hak andi ny Sele de Tider he sneer ot Gis ites p67 Fescoetimeerateyaen ray nga pion pepe che ee cof chis craft, aswell asia mentor to yan editraee ‘THE CONSULTANTS Mark Daplnske, a cabinet whe lives im Wausau, Wisconsin, isa comriburing editor to-Fine Woodworking magazine da the author of sever books on wom ing power tools, Leonard Lee is the presi of Veritas Tools Aan Lee Vlley Tools, manufacturers and reuail- ‘ersaf fine woadwosLing hand took He isl. ‘the peblicher and executive editor of Woodents, 4a magazin that focuses an the history and Iechniques of woodworking, (Giles Miler- Mead has aught adbances!caki- ‘retaking at Montzeal tecnica achools for move than fen years. nativeof New Zealand, be previously worked as. restorer of antique furniture, Joneph Truint is Senior Editor f Heme ‘Mechanic magazine. A formar Sbop apd Tools Fultor of Popa Mocha, he has worked at a cabinetmaker, home improvement cutractor and carpenter. ‘Woodworkung machines Poem. —(The Amt of Word Indes index. ISBN 0-60%4-9900-2. {SBN 0-8094-990 -0 ib. bap L Worhwonking tous. 2. Woodworking machinery 5, Saw. 1 Time-Life Books. I Series “TYiaawase 1992 584 8 —de20 For information about any Tira-Life book, plese call 1-800-421-7025, eke: Reader information “Tinse-Life Customer Service BO, Box C2068 Rihmocd, Virginia 25361-2008 (© 1982 Time-Life Books Inc Alrrights reserved. ‘Mo part ofthas book may be reprostoced in any formar by any electronic o mechanical ‘means, ineluding information storage and seul devies or gues, who roe feritten permission fo he pili, eacsph that brief pascags may be quoted for reviews. First printing, Printed in U.S.A Published simultaneously in Canada, ‘TIME-LIFE fsa trademark of fine Warner ne, USA.CONTENTS INTRODUCTION TABLE SAW Anatomy of a table saw Setting up Safety Table saw blades Ripping Crosscutting Angle cuts Dado cuts Moldings Table saw joinery RADIAL ARM SAW Anatomy ofa radial arm saw Setting up Radial arm saw blades and accessories Safety Crosscutting, ae cuts ipping jo cuts. Moldings Radial arm saw joinery BAND SAW Anatomy of a band saw Setting up Safet Band saw blades Cutting curves Straight cuts Angle and taper cuts Cutting duplicate pieces Band saw joinery 104 106 108 110 112 118 119 122 124 126 128 130 132 135 136 139 140 142 144 DRILL PRESS. Anatomy of a drill press Setting up and safety Bits and accessories Straight and angled holes Dowels, plugs and tenons Mortising techniques The drill press as sander JOINTER Anatomy of a jointer Setting up and safety Jointer knives Jointing Salvaging warped stock Rabbets, chamfers and tapers Planer GLOSSARY INDEX ACKNOWLEDGMENTSINTRODUCTION Giles Miller-Mead talks about TABLE SAWS he first table saw I ever encountered belonged to my friend's dad, a Danish boat uilder. He'd builtithimself out of an assortment af pa le age and origin and it proudly occupied a comer of his workshop. It always amazed me ow Sven could turn outany number of identical, precisely cut pigess. and then, after changing his set-up, make lengths of beautiful custam moldings. All these ope were done with seemingly effortesseffici Iwas always pestering him to ket me sing it and, when he finally di, the first project we made together was a set of foorboards for my vintage car, «1938 Rover Sports Sedan. Even nen 5 years later, stil lookback at Syen ane the floor boerd project asthe first stirrings of my desire to make a living from weodwa My present table san, boug ‘commercial model with a3-ho paver motor. | couldn't imagine my woodworking shop without it. rely on my table throughout my projects, ebether cutting workpieces to size, making diferent joints, buik ees and doors, or creating a vanety of molding patterns, [also make a lotof chairs in nny workshop and [find my table saw particularly useful for cutting the angled tenons on the seat rails When Ibuitt my house, I started by building the workshops once that was up, the table saw came through for me once again, cutting sheets of plywood ta size and making all the trim for the entire hou: think | like the table saw so much for two main reasons, First of all's such a ver machine; second, since most ofthe motor and blade are beneath the table, you can seeat a glance what's going an. There’snething to obscure your view of the work surface. Sill, have a great deal of respect for itsability to cause bodily injury—a lesson. that's been drummed into me on a couple of occasions. But I consider it a safe machine, as long asthe proper precautions are observ perator isn't ovetired or in too much ofa hurry. Allin all, the table saw isa magnificent machine and | couldn't do without it, «well as cutting other assorted pieces satil A native of New Zealand, Giles Miller-Mead is seen here ie his workstop/with one of his prized rools—a vintage table saw acquired in the earlyINTRODUCTION Frank Klausz discusses RADIAL ARM SAWS tile wasabont 14 years old, ny son was content to spend hissum: mers in my shop doing sanding jabs. Then he decided to make something himself. I suggested he design a jewelry bor, which I helped him construct. The inex summer, he wanted t build some- thing without n working on my bi Being saiety-conscious, I got a bit ner- vous. Still, I took him to the racial arm saw and explained the basics. Then T painted two red lines an the saw table, ches away from the blade from the red Je was working atthe saw withour supervision. He cut Yé-inch rabbets into the edges of his jew- dlry box top and added a black ebony inlay. I would have used a router, but he did fine with the saw. Because you pull the blade intoasta~ tionary workpiece, the racial arm saw is machine provided you set up properly, use only sharp blades, follow the manufacturer's safety instructions and, ifyou wish, add your wm red zoe Tuse the radial arm saw for a variety of tasks: crosscutting lumber, cutting miters and dadoes, and ripping, remember to feed evenly e correct side of the table to Frank Klasse: ownea workshop inINTRODUCTION Dave Sawyer talks about BAND SAWS have been a Windsor chairmaker for 10 years. The machines in my shop are lathe and a band sav The lathe 5 esse save is a wonderful convenience, It cuts out seats, trims rough wood, cuts tumings and spindles to length, saws wedge slots, and is just plain Randy Allthese jobs could be done with hand saws, but the band saw-daes them quicker and more aceuratehy Twasexposed to band savesat an early age in my father’s display and exhibit shop. Later I worked in a boatyard where the band sew made many wonderful shapes, That must have been whe realized it ic my favorite woodworking machine. Fora smull shop limited toone stationary power tool, most folks would want atable saw, but a band saw would bemy choice Obviously, band saws are great for cutting curves, dawn to tiny radi «inch blades. Angle cuts, stra curved, are easy. With a Title for thought, you can make “rele and get into realy tight places, Hand saws also do a reesonable i ali-inch or -inch blade and a fenc My 14-inch Delta model will resaw hoards 6 inches wide—any thickness fom veneer on up. With f-inch riser bblock in its rane tt could resaw 12 inch es. That would take a monster industrial 30-inch table saw to make the same sut—or two passes with a 16-inch save, Dive Sawyer builds W airs cat his workshop ia South Woodbury. VeINTRODUCTION Judith Ames on DRITL-PRESSES fall the tools in my shop, the drill ress may not see as many hours ‘of use as some others, but for certain tacks i is indispensable, The machine I use isa Sears Craftsman, manufactured in the mid-1950s. It ame into our shop about four years ago, What [like about this drill press is its oki-tool charm, the weight of it. Irs solid. Itsvas builtto last, Prior to getting into furniture-mak- ing, [experimented with carpentry and cccbinetmmaking. [studied woodworking in Colorado, taking classes with such highly respected furniture makers as Art ‘Carpenter. F ‘ng, I'm constantly learning ues and trying new designs, Iproduce aline of furniture as well: ‘custom design places. I make a rocking chair for children with a design that includes bear paws on the arms and ddovses set into a carved frare that pr viades back support. I depend on the drill press to bore precise holes for the dowels, ‘On arocking chair make for adults, the legs are square at the middle where they meet the seat, and have tenons at either end that fit into the rockers at the botiom and the arms at the “Tomake the transition betwe square middle and round ten the legs with a router and ‘The drill press rearas the holes in the rockers and the arms for the tenons. Judith Aanes isa fiernizure maker in Seattle, Washingion. 0INTRODUCTION Mark Duginske talks about JOINTERS he first jointer I used was already when nny father bought it. The ichine required constant: atse it taught meta con- fon to ewry board worked with, When I was 15 years ok, wwe built 2 new house and used locally grown oak for the trimand cabinets I ‘was my job to do all of the jointing. Aralel{ learned then—and one that wemuccesal hinges on has straigh square edges. The power tools that do most of the cutting in my shop nowa- cdays—the table saw and the radial arm saw—awill cut aocurately only if the stock [feed into them is squan edge ofa board is not straigh able to crosscut it squarely Getting aff toa good start is where the jointer connes in. 1 usc it to make that critically impor square corner where th end ofa board meet. The joiner alsohas A more creative application when I use it to make legs for furniture or even deco- ratire moleings The jointer is not difficult to use o- maintain, but it requires skill to adjust the machine and change the knives. But like all tools, mastering the fointer takes practice and concentration. wor'the ‘Mark Dugiiskeis the author of several books on woodwarking tools and techniques. abi nermaker in Wiansan, WisconsinTABLE SAW hether you are working with amilled hoards from a luraber- yard, old barn siding or sheets of 4-by plywood, the table sawisan excellent al around tool for eutting wood to width {cipping) and length (crosscuring). fthe table saw were used for nothing but these ‘wo cuts, it would sill bea valuable tool But the saw also accepts a wide variety of blades and accessories, from roller stands that assist wth unwieldy panels (page 26) tomolding heads capable of producin storse dares in (page 4 Ad with help from the simple, inexpensive 10-inch blade, Properiy tuned andl main tained, it can mill 3-inch stock repeated Iy-without overheat lfmiost of your work is with M- or L- inch-thick stock typically used for cab- inetmkng, the open-base contractor's ‘saws less cxpensive alternative, Its 1.3 horsepower motor turns an 8- or 10- inch blade, and the uaitan be mounted -ona mobile base, providing extra flex- ibility, In any cave, the basic require- ment for a table saw—hether for cabinetmaking or general workshop ese—is that it must be capable of outing shop-made jigs featured in this chapter, the table saw is also unsurpassed for repeat cuts and also valuable for making sch fundamental woodworking joints Screwed to the miter gauge this wood extension facilifates the culting of box Joins for dravvers and casework. Sich shop-made jigs extend the versatility a2-by-4 at both 90und 45°, For occasional use an light stock or where space isat a premium, the 84- inch bench top sav can easily be hauled as the lap, box and open mortise-and- tenon joints (page 44). ‘The precision and pawer af table srw permit a woodworker to make many different cuts with small risk of error. Sawing square and straight with hand tools requires considerable skill and time; but a woodworker who follows the procedures for the table saw outlined in this chapter can produce dean, accurate ‘cuts—consistently, and with relatively little effort ‘Table saws are designated according to the blade diameter vused. Models are commonly availablein 8-, 9, L0- and 12-inch sizes. The 8- and 10-inch moxiels, however, are clearly the most popular home warkshop sens. When choosing a table saw irs ‘consider the type of woodworking you will be doing with i The fully enclosed stationary a, lke the one pictured on pages 14-15, typically uses a 1.5- to 3-horsepower motor to drive a With workpiece canped firaly toa tenaning ig. « woodworker cuts the tenow part afar: oper: ‘uortise-and-tenon joint. The ig is graded bya sail dat sides inde sey table's miter gauge sot of the basic table saw. around the workshop or the job ste by ‘one person. When chaosing a saw, beware of exaggerated horsepower ratings. Check the motor plate: An hanest 1.5-horsepower motor should draw roughly ‘4amps at 115 volts;a 3-horsepower motor should draw 14 or 15 ampsat 230 volts, ‘Note: In some illustrations in this chapter, the table saw is shown in ion without the blade guard in cases ‘it should, in fact, be used. This is donc only for the sake of clarity ofthe illustration. Use your blade guard whenever possible. 13ANATOMY OF A TABLE SAW Auniliary table inserts Blade guard Keep woo. Clear shield that in ‘rable; wider protects operator 5 ido or mak fram blade; bolted ae to splitter and ee stback device \ ‘ = Ke ws Standard Rolier tard { pable insert: ‘Supports long work: ne ‘ Keeps wood pisces during cutting M peces from Veecatishe = + ailing ico ratte We ~al | ' ange or small the table saw is basical- ly a motor and arbor assembly attached to a base cabinet or stand, The arbor may be mounted directly to the motor shalt, or connected to the mowor bya belt and pulley. in general, better saws have more than one bet Precise blade adjustments are made by meansof two crank-type handwheels underneath the saw table. One wheel Miter gauge Guides workplece act wocden extensor to gauge fo support wide pi can be ecrewed Ripfence Guides workpiece across table for ripping fad in position‘conteols the blade’s height above the saw table—frona O10 34 inches ona 10-inch saw, The other wheel adjusts the angleof the blade—from 90° to 45°. ‘The rp fence, which on most models slides along the front and rear guide bars to control rip cuts, can be locked any- ‘where along its track atthe desired dis- tance from the blade. Some fences feature measuring tapes attached to the TABLE SAW bar or even, in some cases, electronic readouts, although experi- enced woadworkers usually rely on a handheld racasuring tapeanda sample cut to check the widih af acut. Shallow slots, milled into the saw table ‘on each side of the blade, eccept an able mis gauge or udingcos- ‘cuts. Quality saws have tables that are cast and then machined fr flatness. wil ip fence Langer fence replaces sana fence when Holdown vig Auwdilary fence extension fable used Holds workplece firmly Based dlaniped againgt both table and —arecrewed tarip vip fence far safe rip cuts fence extends height of fence “and provecta it 15 Hi The portable 814-inek erick tap sew can perform mest ofthe furutions ofa larger sav. Usnally placed on a workbench or an sawhorse, it also cam be built inco a bench, its top level with the bench top, provinting a large work surface. Extension table _——__ erences work surface to facilitate cursing large boande and panels f a Rip fence guide bar Holds optional rip fence to extension tate: few ture nile for measuring width of cu Fence lock Holds np fence in Fixed positionSETTING UP WW Bice aoarae saw sis poised to make its fist cut or is a sea- soned machine with a home ful of fur niture to its credit, it earmot cut with precision unless its adjustable parts are in proper alignment. A table saw with ‘misaligned parts can result in any one of several frustrating problems, including excessive vibration, increased risk of bickback, blade daanage, burn marks-on workpieces as well as inaccurate cuts, Even errorsas little as Ys inch can oom- promise the quality and strength af a Diece of furniture. ‘The components of your table saw requiring the most attention ave those that contact and guide the workpiece during cutting operations: che saw table, the blade, the miter gauge and the rip fence. Before putting table saw through its paces on the cutting techniques described i this chapter, frst setup the machine properly by checking and, necessary, adjusting the alignment ofits parts, For best results, unplug the saw, jus: the table insert setscrews to make the insert perfectly lush with the saw table, and crank the blade to its highest setting. Then fallow the steps shown below in the sequence that they appear, There is litte point in aligning the miter gauge with the saw blade, for example, if ALIGNING THE TABLE AND SAW BLADE Checking table alignment = Position the miter gauge at the front of the saw blade. Hold or clarmp 3 perfectly squared wood black agninst the miter gauge ard butt the end of the block against a saw blade tooth (above), Then slide the miter gauge and the block together teward the back of the table while rotating the blace by hand, The block should remain butted against the tooth as the blade rotates trom front to back. If gap opens between the block and the tacth, oF the block binds against tha blade ss itis rotated, align the table follewing the owner's the blade itcelf has nor been squared with the table, To confirm that your table saw is properly tuned, snake e few test cuts. A good way to ensure that your saw iscut- ting in precise, straight lines is to cata squared board in two and fip one ofthe pieces over. Butt the two cut ends togeth- et. They chould ft together without any 195 as perfectly as they did before the baard was flipped. Because the normal vi tion from cutting can upset proper alignment, tune ‘your table saw periodically; many wood- ‘workers take the time to adjust their saws before stating each project. Checking blade angle Remove the table insert, then butt a combination square against the sew blade between two teetn as shown. The blade of the square should fit fhush against the saw blade. If there is a geo. between tha two, rotate tha blade angle adjustment crank until the sew blade rests flush against the square's blade.TABLE SAW SQUARING THE MITER GAUGE ‘Aligning the miter gongs with the saw table With the miter gauge out of the table slot, use a combina tion square to confer that the head of the gauge i square with the edge of the gauge bar. If its not, use the adjustment handle on the gauge to square the two. Then butt the square against the gauge labevel, The blace of the square should fit flush against the gauge. If there is a gap betwen the two, have the goume machined square st a metalworking shop. ADJUSTING THE RIP FENCE vier gauge wor ‘Aligning the rip fence: ‘Sat the rip fence alongside the miter aauge Sot. f here is any zap between the twa, align the fence flowing the ‘owner's manual instructions, On the model shown, turn the adjustment sit at the front af the table with a hex wrench. ‘Nigning the miter gauge with the saw blade Butta carpenter's square against the miter gauge and the au blade between tio teeth. The square shoul fit flash against the gauge, If there is a gap between the two, loosen the adjust- ‘ment hendle on the gauge fabove) and swivel the miter head to bringit flush against the square. Tighten the adjustment han- dle on the gauge. SHOP TIP Fixing a loose miter gauge Toelminste excessive side-to- Side play of the miter gauge in ita slac, remove the gauge from ‘the table and place: bar edge-up on a board. Use a Ball-pean saree a prick punch to strike the edge of ‘the bar in a staggered pat= ‘ter every inch along it. This ‘wil raise bumps on the edge and result in a tighter fit in the stot. IF ‘the fit ls too tight, fila the bumps down ab necesbary. the cof the barSAFETY S afey ie mocha mavrofaninde and comman sense as eorreet tech- nique. The table saw is a powerful machine; all the safety devices in the word will not make up fora cavaber ati- tude or sloppy work practices. On the cother hand, a woodworker should not approach table saw with trepidation; a timid operator, someone reluctant to bold a workpiece firmly while euting it, faces as many risks as a careless worker. Caution mised with confidence stem- ming from an understanding of the machine and the task at hand should be the woodworker’s guide, Read the owner's manual supplied with your sav. Before starting a job, make sure you know baw to wse the saf- tyacoessories that are designed to protect you from specific injuries while operat ing the machine. Use devices like push sticks and featherboards, as shown throughout thischapter,to protect your fingers from the blade. A hold-down device, such as the enc illustrated on page 25, is also a worthwhile investment ‘And remember that not only your fin- gersand hands are at riske A safe work- shop also includes hearing protectars, salty glasses and dust masks, Respecting the danger zone To avoid injury from tite saw blade, constantly be alert wo a“slanger zone” that exists within about 3 inches of te blate—both abore and to either side off (left). Keep your hands out of this zone whenever the saw is heing vaecd—even ifthe blade guard isin place. Te fed a meskpiece post the blade within the zone, se a push stick, a push block or ji. + sar agape et Tle cdagee yoo ne A 5 screws before cutting, ‘TABLE SAW SAFETY TIPS ‘+ Donot start a cut until the blade is runaing at fll seed, ‘© Aways feed wood into the saw blade ‘against the direction of blada rotation. + Nowe hap a td inpoutin slr tan bo nel ee ie Bea Oe, he og Son tol at ‘completely through the workpiece, such : : i ripping bed, ensure tat the in contact with nap fence smooth carpet vole and tha the su « ityou have te reach past the blade, keep us hands oat 3 ches oy ‘= Use a wooden sick, rather than fingers, to clear weed scraps fom ‘saw table, 18,TABLE SAW HOW THE BLADE GUARD ASSEMBLY WORKS. Protecting fingers anc preventing Kickback The standard table saw blade guard assernbiy includes a pivoting, clear-plastic blade guard, which deflects fying wood chips and reduces the chasce that fingers wil slip accidentally into the blade. The guard is connected to a thin piec of metal known as the salitter or riving kaif Attached directly inline with the blade, the sp ter Keeps the saw cut—or kert-epen, Without such a device, the kerf may close during 2 cut binding the blade and theowing the workpiece. back toward the operator with great force. Kickbeck can also result f a workpiece jars between the blade and the rip fence. Further protection from kickback is provided by 3 metal finger (oe fingers) called an anti-kickback paw which normally rides on the surface of the wor pilece, n the event of kickoack, the finger igs in, preventing the workpiece from flying back st left provicle extra sbilin, Held in place by a cantilevered arin boked ro the side ofthe saw table, it features a plastic sh i sand lowered by a crak. Resting lightly om the workpi the shicld serves asa holi-clown and provide ig area, allow formoppenations such as cave cutting and ‘cannot be done with conventional blade guard sitown above has nwa bbock arms ride on top of the workpiece, but wher: the blade cas be raised on! of is close ache rip fer ‘with the standard guard beca part of the framework that holds it 9TABLE SAW BLADES AN es on good the sa blade it terns. A dull or chipped blade can transform even the best of able ses nto a poor or even dangerous tool. To protect blades from damage, avoid stacking them directly atop each cher. Hang them individually on hooks aor place cardboard between thers. Replace blade tat is Gull or cracked or has chipped teeth; more accidents are caused by dull blades than sharp ones. Keep your saw blades ea. Wood resins ‘an gum up a bade and harper its abit fore scott Eiders tl resin and pitch off blade, soakit in turpen- tine, then sera it with ted woo. Spray-on coven cleaner can be tse to dissolve stub- bor deposits. Proper blade performace is as much matter of using the right blade forthe job as keeping it lean andin good con- dition. Whereas in the past there were relatively few saw blades to choase from, today’s woodworker faces wide array of options. As illustrated below, there are blades designed specifically forcrossaut- tingor ripping, others to minimize kick- back or produce thin keri, and blades ANATOMY OF A BLADE TOOTH Bruzed toa shoulder on the sa blawle, the carbide tip toes the cutting, while the gullet removes the sawdust The expansion: slot prevents the blade frowt warping when it heats up. The arti kickback feature reduces the risk thor the blade will jam, and send ct work “piece flying back toward the user: for cutting specific types of wood. peal la installed on the saw and adjusted for cutting height and angle in the same nay (pages 22-23}. The most important advance in recent yearshas been the introduction of carbide-tipped blades. These have eclipsed traditional high-speed steel as fheblndeofchet tae advaalige ot cable tipped bes es inthe bili toheep a sharp exige far longer than theit steel counterparts. Composed of grains of hard tungsten-carbon particles one hundredth the thickness of a human hair, the carbide chunks are bonded with cobalt and brazed onto the blade with copper or sver. Carbide is extreme- ly hard; the highest rating —Cl—has a Dareiness value of 94 om a scale that rates diamondas 100. ‘While carbide-tipped blades can stay sharp for a hundred hours or more of use, they are more difficult—and there- fore more expensive—to sharpen than igh-speed stel blades. Stl, most wood. Boe thepriceis worth peying for the adventages they offer.GUIDE TO CARBIDE-TIPPED BLADE DESIGNS Carbide-tipped saw blades feature four basic tooth designs, Eech has its awn particular advantages and applications. Al blades have teeth that sheor through the wood and gul- lets that clear away sawdust and wood chips trom the kerf ‘Some blades algo nave rakers that cut out any material left f the kerf by the teeth. On some blades, the teeth are alternately beveled-—thet is, they shear stock alternately from one side, and then the other sice of the cut, Hollow Grovna Planer Blade (Filgh- (The Ri) Speed Steel) ‘Axarlation of the azat- Forvory amiodeh eroas- dard erosscut blade for cute, rp cats or angle in ‘ne Haloh cute. tts thin- cua. The body of tha nner rim produces a rar~ blade le thinner than panels ‘ener kerf, purcing leas ‘he hub art tah, which stra oF the ae Ware aro not set, anauritig that the body doos not Bind In the eam kereTABLE AW CHANGING A SAW BLADE Removing the cld blade Working at the frent ofthe tale, wedge a piewe ef serap wood under a blade tooth te prevent the blade fram turning. Use the vmench supplied with the saw to loosen the erbor nut (above. (Table saw erbors usualy hve reverse threeds; the nul i los- ened in a clockwise direction—rot counterlachise.) Fin sh osening the nut by hand, making sure that it does. nc fall into the machine, Carefully lift the blade and washer of the arbor. SHOP TIP Custom-made table inserts 10} of scrap from jamming against the caw blade, make your own table inserts that minimize the gap between the blade and the table insert Dae seta eet saw as 8 a 2 Instalting the mew blade ‘Slide Ue blace on the arbor with its teeth pointing in the sirection of blade rotation (toward the front ofthe table), Insert the washer and mut and start tightening by hanc. To finish tight- ening, grip the saw blade with a rag and use the wrench sup- plied with the saw (aborel. Do not use a piece of wood 2s a ‘wedge a6 this could result in overtightening the nut. wood of the same thickness, Crive a brave sotecrew into Ito front edge until Ys inch of the screw ‘trudes from it. (The acrew will serve ae an anchor pin for the Crank the saw blade to ics lowest. land eet the new insertin Fosition the rip fence to etraddle the insert, making eure that Ge we Uialae etna We anaemic so tia ig ene ea Kage ead oa in alaeTABLE SAW SETTING THE BLADE ANGLE SETTING THE BLADE HEIGHT Cranking the blade to the proper height ‘A blade that is tno high poses a safety risk; one that is too low will nat cut For mest cutting operations, crank until about inch of the blade is visible above the workpiece (ight) To set the blade at a specific height, use 2 tape measure of a commercially mace gauge, which features a series of steps" of Veineh incremonts; 8 similar {Fauge can be shop-bult from seraps. 6f Yieineh plywood. The blade is atthe comrect height when it rubs the gauge at the desired height 25 you rotate the blade by hand (insat. Sting the proper cutting angle To make on angle cut, remore the table insert and crank the blade to its highest satting, Use a protractor to set the desired cutting angle an a sliding bevel and butt the bevel against the blade between tio teeth. Rotate the angle acjustment crank on the saw until the blade rests flush against the bevel (eft) 23‘TABLE SAW.TABLE SAW Approaching the bade Hook the thumt of yoar left hard over the edge of the table and rest your palm on the table, keeping the wood pressed down firaly 07 the table and up agaiast the fence (let), Continue feeding the board with your right hard until the ailing end of the board approaches the blade Passing tie blace Stracle the fence with your right hand (left), aking sure that neither hand is in line with the blac. 1f any Finger comes Within 2 inches of the blade, complete the cut using a pash stick, a jig, o ahoid-cown device (above) mounted on the rip fence. The rubber wheels ofthe hold-stown device aap the woekplece firmly against the table; to prevent kickback, they also lock when pushed against the direction of the cut beeping the board from shooting backward. Finishing the out , CLAspue tabu te og ne macs on eel e ‘cuts through it completely. When. table, then move to the back to pull the ‘the workpiece is clear ofthe blade, use ‘your left hard to shift the waste piece ‘tp the let side of the table (eft. With ‘your righthand, carefully lift the good piece and place it tothe right of the nip fenge belore turning ctf the saw. Dp net allow pieces of wood to pile Up on the saw table 25 weod through. Otherwise, finish the eut fom the front of the table (step 4)TABLE SAW RIPPING A LARGE PANEL Cutting into the panel Position the rip fence for the width of cut. Ask some- ‘ane to stand at the back af the table to receive the cut sections; otherwise, set up two roller stands. Position them so that, depending on the thickness of the panel, they are close enough to support the cut pieces. Lay the Panel on the saw table a few inches from the blade, butting its edge against the fence. To begin the cut, slowly fead the panel Into the blade, slightly raising the panel's backend to keep its front end fiat; apply enough side pressure with your left hand to keep the panel butted suamly against the fence (above), Continue feesing the Panel into the blade at a steady rate until its back end reaches the edge of the table. (Cauti lade guard removed for clarity) Finishing the cut Standing to the left of the saw blade, position your polms on the back end of the panel se that ‘either hand is in line with the blace. Press down ‘en the panel with your palms (abave) and push the trailing end of the panel toward the blade until the cut is completed. 26TABLE SAW RIPPING A NARROW STRIP Using 2 featherboard and push stick Position the rip fence forthe width of cut, Then butt the werkplece against the fence. To keep your hands avery from the blade as it cuts the workpiece, use two accessories—a featherboard and a push stick. Clamp a featherboerd to the sam table—the model shown is installed in the miter slot—to that its fingershold the workpiece snugly against the fence Use @ push stick as shown to feed the workpiece into the blade. Contin we cutting steadily until the blade nears, the end of the cut. Support the waste piece with your left hand; to prevent your hand from being pulled back into the bisde in case af Kickback, curl your fingers around the ecge of the table left) (Caution: Blade guard removed for clarity) ‘ALG FOR MAKING REPEAT NARROW CUTS Ta rip saveral narrow strips to the same width, use the ‘shopmnade jig shows at left. For the jag, cut a board with a ip at ene end, Screw a hald-down block to the jig. then butt the ji flush ageinst the rip fence. Merk a cutting line ‘on the workpiece, then saat it against the |ig, flush with thé: lip. Position the rip fenoe so that the cutting line an the workpiece is aligned with the saw bade. ‘To make each cut, slide the jig and the morkpiece as @ Unit across the table, feeding the workpiece into the blade (eit), (The fest cut wl trim the lip to the width of the cut) ‘Use your left hand to keep the workpiece flush against the lig. Remove the cut strip, reposition the workpiece in the fig, and repeat for identical stripe, (Caution: Biade guard removed for clarity.)TABLE SAW RESAWING THICK STOCK Setting up and starting the cut To resam a board, position the rip fence for the width of cut and attach a high auxiliary wood fence. Crark the blade below the table anc place the wark- piece over the lable inser. To secure the workpiece, clamp one featheraoard to the fence above the blade, anda second featherboard halfway between the blade and the frant of the table, Rest the sec ond featherboard on a weod scrap so that it supports the mide ofthe workpiece, clamp another board at a $0° angle to the featherboerd for extra pressure, &s shown. Remove the workpiece and set the blade height to a maximum of 11 inches for saftwoed or 2 inch for hard- wood, To stat the cut, fed the werkpiece the blade (let) Continue cutting at 2 steady rate until your fingers are about 3 inches from the biade. Completing the first pass Finishing the cut With the saw still running. move to the back of the table. Raige the blade height and make another pase along each Use one hand to press the workpiece flush against the rip edge of the workpiece (above), Make as many passes as neces ‘fence tabove) and the other hand tz pull it past the biade, sary, raising the blade height after each pass, untl the blace Flip the workpiece over and repeat the cult in steps 1 and 2. g procedures cuts through the workpiece completely 28TABLE SAW ‘TAPER CUTS Using @ commercial taper jig Tocut a workpiece so that one end is narrower than the other, make 2 taper cut Hold the jig tlush against the rip fence ‘and givet the hinged arm with the wark stop until the taper scale indicates the ‘cutting angle—in degress or inches por oot. Mark a cutting line on the workpiece, then seal it against the work stop and hinged erm, Position the fence so that the cutting line on the workpiece is aligned ‘with the saw blode. With the jig and work: piece clear ef the blade, turn on the saw. 'Use-your left hand ta held the workpiece against the jig and your right hand to slide the jig ard workpiace as a unit across the table, feeding the woekpiece into the blac (let) ensure that neither hand isin line with the blade. Continue cutting at 2 steady rate until the blade cuts through the worepiece, (Caution: Sew blade quard removed for clarity.) shap-made jie Build jig exactiy like the one shewn on age 63 but without the handle, To pesi- tion the workpiene for the taper cut, raise the saw blade to its hignest setting. Butt ‘one side of the jig base against the blade and position the rip fence flush ageinst the other side of the base, Mark a cutting lina on tha warkpisce, then place it on the base, aligning the line with the edge ‘of the taper jig's base nuarest the blade, Halding the workpiece securely, position ‘the guide bar against it, with the lip ‘snugly against the end of the workpiece Screw the guide bar to the bese and press the topple clamps down to secure ‘the workpiece to the jig base. Set the blade height. With the jig ane workpiece clear of the biade, turn on the sam. With ‘your left hand peessing the workpiece toward the rip fence, Slide the jig and ‘workpicce steadily across the table, mak- ing sure that nefther hand is in line with the blade (ryt). (Caution: Bade guard removed for cariy.) 29CROSSCUTTING A seating wih he in sno mous with the use ofthe rip fence, so crosscutting is defined by the device used to make the cut: the miter gauge ‘The general technique for making 2 crosscat, as shown below, hegins with correct hand placement to keep the sworkpiece both fush on the table and firmly against the miter gauge. The workpiece is fd into the blade ata steady rate, As with ripping, make sure that scrap pieces do not pile up on the table, andl keep both hands aut ofline with the blade, Also, keep the rip fence well back from the blade to prevent any cut-off ‘SQUARING THE WORKPIECE Making a erosscut Before measuring or marking a workplece for a cusscut, cut one end of it squane. To avold jarnming the blade, align the workpiece with the blade so that it wil trim Ys inci or so. With the thumbs of both hands hooked over the mit part of the workpiece from becoming, trapped between the blade and fence and kicking back, fo reduce the amount of sanding you will need to do later, remember thatthe slower the feed, the smoother the cut, specially when the blade breaks through the workpiece at the end of the cut Although a combination blade can be used for crosscutting. a-crosscut blade will produce a finer cu’ ‘When alanger workpiece is bing cut, itis a good idea to attach an extension to the miter gauge to provide 2 more secure base. Miter gauges commonly have ‘gouge, hold the workpiece firmly against the gauge d2bove) and push them together to feed the wark- piece into the blade. (aution: Blade guard removes for clarity.) two screw holes for just such an addi- tion—normually, a piece of hardwood 310 4inches wide and about 2 feet long, Use the miter gauge extension in can- on with a stop block to make cuts (page 32). For wide panels or long boards, a shop-made crosscutting jig (page 33) is particulary helpful, an will ensure very accurate cus. The jig ean also be used for smaller pieces and provides a safe, con venient way io perform most crosscut Many experienced woodworkers consid rit the single most indispensable acces- sory for crosscutting. Checking for square Use a combination square ta con firm that the cut end of the workpiece forms a 90° angle with the edge. With the workpiece and square held up to the light, there should be no gap visiale. Mark an X on the cut end to help you temember which end has been squared. Nee 30TABLE SAW REPEAT CUTS: USING THE RIP FENCE AS A GUIDE Setting up the cut Clamp a board tthe rip tence as a stop block. Ta paevent jamming the wrork- piece between the stop and the blade— ‘which could lead to kickback—position the stop far enough toward the font af the table so that the workpiece w ll clear the stop before reaching the blade. To line up the cut, hold the workpiece against the ‘miter gauge and push the gauge and werk- piece forward until the workpiece touches the saw blade, Slice the workpiace along the miter gauge until the cutting mark is. aligned with the blace (left. Positaning the rip tence (Making the cx Holding the workpiece firmly against the miter gauge, pull Set the end of the workpiece flush against the stop block. both back from the blade and butt the step black against the With the thumbs of both hands hooked over the miter gauge, workpiece (abana) Lock the tip fence in position, Chéck to 688 hold the workpiaes firmly against the gauge and push them that tive workoiece does not contact the stop block when the _togetner to food the workpiece into the Blade (above), (Caution: workpiece reaches the Diede, Blade guard removed for clarity.) 31‘TABLE SAW REPEAT CUTS: USING THE MITER GAUGE Fositioning the stop block Screw a doard te the miter gauge as ‘an extension, ensuring that one and of it'extends beyond the saw blade, Push the miter gauge to cut off the end of the extension. Turn off the saw, then slide the miter gauge to the front of the table Measure and mark the length cf cut on the extension (left Align a wood block with the mark and clomma it in ploce 05 a too block. ‘Making the cut For each eut, butt the end of the workpiece agit the stop black, With ‘the thumbs of bath hands hooked over the mitar gauge, hold the workpiece firmly against the gauge and push them together, feeding the workpiece into the blade (above). (Baution: Blade (guard removed for clarity.) throug cs ‘the hinge 20 the box using glue, or remove the cover and drive in screws, 32TABLE SAW Reinforcing block BSB" For easy and accurate crosscuts— especially with long, wide or heavy, warkpieces—use a shop-built cross ‘cut jg, custom-made for your table saw (above), Refer to the illustration {or suggusted dimensions. Cut two 25-inch-long hardwood runners the same width 3s your miter gauge slots. Bore clearence holes for screws into the cf the runners, 3 inches fram each end, Place the runners inthe slots, then slide them aut to overhang the ‘back end of the table by about 8 inches. Pesition the jig base square- yon the runners its edge flesh with their overhanging ends, then screw ‘the runners ta the bese, ccuntersink- ing the serews. Slidé the runners ‘ane the base off the front end of the ‘table and drive in the other two ‘Screws. Attach a support freme. ‘the hack edge of the ing. Glue a rein= forcing block to the frame, centered ‘betimeen the runners. Then, with the ‘runners in the miter gauge slots, ‘make @ cut through the support ‘frame and three-quarters ofthe Way 33 ‘across the base. Turn off the saw ‘end lower the blade. Seren a guide to the front edge of the jig, ensuring that itis square with the saw kerf. Glue a safety block to the outside ‘of the guide, centered on the Kerf; ‘alsa glue a reinforcing black on the ‘guide, identical to the one on the ‘support frame. Raise the saw blade ‘end fin’sh the cut, saning cammplete- ly through the guide but only slightly intathe safety block. For making repeat cute to the same length, serew an extension to the guide and clamp a stap block ta it. Use a clear plastic shest that ‘spans the saw kerf 25 a blade guard, festening it to the reinforcing blocks with wing nuts. To use the erosscut jig, tthe run- ‘ers into the miter gauge slots. Slide the jig toward the back of the table nil the blade enters the ket. Hold the workpiece against the guide, slice the stop block to the desired position and clamp i¢ In place, butting the ‘end of the workpiece against the stop iblock. With the workriece fed firmly against the guide, side the jig steadi- ly across the table (ef), feeding the ‘workpiece into the blade,CROSSCUTTING A WIDE PANEL ing the cat ‘Tun off the saw whien the blade is fer enough through the workpiene to allow the miter gauge to return to its usual posi tion, using a hands-free switch (page 321, if possible, so that both hands remain on the workpiece. Insert the miter gauge into its siot free the front of the table ‘and complete the cut, holding the work: piece against the extension (right) TABLE SAW Reversing the miter gauge to stertthe cut if a workpiece is wider than the distance between the front ede of the table and ‘the saw biace, the miter gauge cannot be used to begin a crosscut in its usual position—in front of the blade. Irsteac, remove the gauge and inser it in the miter slot fram the back of the table; for ‘exire stability screw 2 wooden extension ‘to the gouge. To begin the cut, hold tha ‘extension with one hond while pressing ‘the workpiec against it with the other hand, Feed the workpiece staacily inta the blade until the trailing end of the ‘workpiece reaches the front of the table. (Cation: Bla guant removed for elesty}ANGLE CUTS ne of the reasons the table sais so versal is that both the miter ‘gauge and the blade can be angle, pro- ‘ducing not only straight cuts but miter, Devel and compound cuts as wel Miters cof between Pand 9 are cut by angling the miter gamge. Saw blades can be tilted from 45° 0.30" (page 23), producing bevel cas. And by angling both the miter gauge and the saw blade, a woodworker ‘can make a compound cut Whether crosscutting or ripping, the techniques used for angle cuts are similar tp those used when the blade and gauge are at 90°. The difference isthe result: With the blade at 94°, the woodworker ends up with a straight cut; with the blade angled, a bevel cut. The sime applies to crosscutting, although with both activities extra care must be taken to keep hands away from the blade, ‘which nov cuts a wider swath above the table, When the blade is tilted, position the miter guage or rip fence so that the Compound aut blade angles away from it. This way the ‘workpiece is pushed away from the Blade rather than pulled toward it, reducing the chance that hands wil stray into the bode, Gluing sandpaper to amnter gauge extension willalsa reduce the chance of workpiece slipping during acu TWO JIGS FOR MAKING MULTIPLE ANGLED CUTS ‘A simple setup for fast reneat cuts Scrow 2 wooden extension to the miter gauge, then use a slid: ing bevel to set the desired cutting angle of the gzugs (above Ii you sre making a compound cut, use the sliding bevel to sot the blade angle (page 23). Pus’ the miter gauge te cut off the end af the extension. Place the workpiece against the exten- sion and line-up the cutting mark with the blade. Clamp a stop to the extension at the opposite end of the workpiece. To make each cut, hold the workpiece firmly against the extension and, ‘keeping both hands out-of line with the saw blade, push the workplace steadily into the blace. (urting miter joints Build a crosscut jig (oage 3) without an extension or a safety Block. Then, eut two 12:inch-tong l-by-4s and place therm at ‘90° te each other in the middle of the jig. centered on its kerf. Tur the jig aver and serew tha 1-by-4 to the jig. To make a series of cuts, butt the workpiece against the left arm of the fig. align the cutting line on the workpiece with the saw blade clamp a stop block to the arm at the end of the work- piece, Cut thraugh the workpiece, Nolding it firmly against the aim and stop block (above. Cut the mating piece ofthe joint the some way on the right arm of the jig. Use the stop blocics as guides for additional cuts ta the same length. 35,DADO CUTS -everal woodworking joints call for -channels tobe cut inte workpieces, allowing boards and panels to fit Logether lightly and solidly, but incon- spicuously. Four of the most common types of channels are shown below (cop), They are distinguished for each other by their relationship to the wood vain and thei location on a workpiece. Rabbets end-to-end cut at acdge: either alorg or ngalet the grain Each of these cuts can be made ona table saw with a standard blade by mak- ing repeated passes akong the workpiece until the entire width of the channel is aut out, However, wtuble sew equipped with adado head can cut a dado, groove cr rabbet nach more efficiently, There are several types of dado heads. Theta. ‘most commen are the adjustable wobble Groove: end-to-end at along thie grain groom cut along thie gran dua ope abort ofone fr both ende dado and the stacking dado shown below (hota). ‘The wobble dado is a single blade mounted on a bub that can be adjusted to provide varying widihs of cut Installed on the saw arbor much like a ssandand blade, the wobble dado literally wobbles as it spins. The greater the tk—ser by a dial an the blade—the wider the channel cutby the blade. The sacking dado comprises pair of outside blades that sandwich up to five inside chippers. The width of cut depends on how many chippers are mounted an the saw arbor along with the blades. Installing only the blades produces a cinch cul. In- side chippers increase cutting width in ew, Vee or ich increments up to's inch—and up ta | inch for models that include metal shims. Paper washers can be added ta provide even, finer width adjustment, For wider chan- nes, adjust the dado head for the widest possible cut and make several passes. Although adjustable wobble blades generally ate les expensive and simpler {o install than stacking models, most stacking dadoes provide better results: channels with more precise widths, et ter bottoms and cleaner edges with a minimum of trout. From curting grooves for shelves in bookcase to making « rablt to jo two panels together. dado trends are can indispensable and versatile ‘accessory for the table saw. 36TABLE SAW INSTALLING A DADO HEAD Insalling blades and chipoers. Remove the blade from the saw (page 22) ‘and installa dédo head folowing the man- ufocturer’s instruct ons. For the carbide tipped stacking dado shown, fit 2 biad2 (on the arbor with the teeth pointing in the direction of blade rotation. To install a chipper, fit il on the arbor against the blade, with is teeth also pointing in the direction of biade rotation, and centered in gullets between two blade teeth. Fit additional chippers on the arbor the same ‘way, offsetting their teeth from those of the chippers lready in place. Then, fit the second blade on the arbor (left), ensuring its teeth do not touch the teeth of the oth ‘ar blade oF any chipper resting against it (inst). install the washer and tighten the futon tho arbor, keoping the blades. and ‘chippers in position, again making sure that ‘the teeth of the chiapers ate not touching any blade teeth. If you cannot tighten the ‘arbor nut all the wey, remove the washer Finally, instal! a dedo-table insert on the saw table. MAKING DADOES AND GROOVES Cutting a dade Mark cutting fines for the width of the dado on the leading eds of the warkpiece, Butt the cutting lines agaist the front f the dace hea, then pasion the nip fence flush against the workplace. Slide the workpiece to the frant of the table and set it against the miter gauge— preferably with an extension scremed to it 6 provide extra stability, To make the cut, slide the miter Reuge end the workpiece 2s a unit into the dado heae (ight), Keeping the work- piece firmly against the fence. (Since the dado head does nat cut completely through the wotk- Fece this is ane exception ta the general rule that the miter gauge énd rip fence should nev- tebe used af the some time.) Continue feed ing the workpieve at @ steady rate until the ut (6 completsc. (Caution: Blade guard remeved far clarity.) 37TABLE SAW Cutting a groove Mark cutting lines forthe wid of the groove on the leading ecge af the workpiece. Butt the cutting lines up ‘egainst the dodo head, then pesition the rip fence flush against the work- place. For naraw stock, usa a feath rerboard and a push stick to Keep your hands away from the dado head. PPesition your left hand at the front edge of the table ta heep the trailing end of the workpiece flush against the fence, Feed the workpiece into the head (right! ata steady rate ‘until the cut is completed. (Caution: lade guard remaved fr eri) ‘Outing a rabet Install a dada heed slightly wider than the rabbet desired, then crank it below the table, Screw a board to the rip fence 3 an auniliary fence and mark the depth ‘of the rabbat an it. Position the auxiliary force directly over the dado head, ensur- lng that the metal fens is clear of the blade. Turn an the saw and slowly crank up the dado head until it cuts to the rmarced line, producing a relief cut in the auniliary fence. Turn off the saw, then mark a cutting line forthe inside edge ‘of tha rabbat an the workpiece. Bult the ‘cutting line against the dado head, then position the tip fence flush against the wworkplece. Clamp two featherboards 2¢ shown ta hold the workpiece securely against the fence and sew blace; a wood ‘en Support sim provides extra stability “Tum on the sar, then feed the workpiece Into the dado head (left at a steady rate ‘until the eut és completed: use a push stick, if necessary. (Caution: Blade guard removed for clarity.)‘TABLE SAW MAKING A STOPPED GROOVE ‘Setting up the cut To help you determine the position of the daclo head when it is hidden by the workpiece during this cut, crank the dado head to the deoth of the groove and use a china marker and a straightedge to mark the points where the head starts and stops cutting (left). Then, mark tao sets of cut- ting lines on the workpiece: one om its lead lng end for the width of the groove: on on its face for the length of the grove. Butt the cutting lines on the leading end of the ‘workpiece against the froat of the dado head, then positien the rip fence flush against the workpiece. ‘Cutting ito the workpiece “Tumn on the saw and hold the work- pieve just above the dado head, align- ing the front-cuting line on the work piece with the dodo heed cutting mark ‘on the table insert farthest from you. Holding the workpiacs tightly against the fence, slowly iower it omta the head (right), keeping beth hends clear of the head. When the workpiece sits squarehy ‘on the table, fred it forward while press ing it against the fence Finishing the cut When your lefthand comes to within 3 inches of the head, slide your hanc along the top edge of the workpiece ‘to the back ofthe table, hooking your fingers around the ‘eble’s edge, Continus cutting at a steady rate until the back cutting line on the workpiece aligns with the ado head cutting mark closest to you, To complete the cut, lft the workpiece off the dado head with your night hand (feft, still steadying it against the fence with your left han hooked around the edge of the table, 39MOLDINGS table sn ismore than just a machine toeut wood, With the proper setup, a saw blade can serve asa mulling device to cut cove moldings (page 43) And by replacing the saw blade with a molding head and different sets of cutters, a plain board can beconse.n elaborate molding, Pizces af wood can be shaped separately and then glued together to form an impressive aray of designs. The results range from crown moldings foracabinet to decorative door and frame mold- ings—made at a fraction of the cost of ir store-bought counterparts. Molding cutters are sold in sets of three, which are installed in a molding head and then fastened onto thearbor. By passing the wood over the cutters repeatedly and raising the molding head slightly each time, a pattern is cat into the wood, The move passes, the deeper the inscription. Like a dado head, a molding head requires its own table insert witha wide opening to accommodate the width of the cuters. A woodhorker can make an insert for cach set of cutters by placing blank piece of wood in the table insert ee fos head —much like making special insects for saw blades (page 22) Molding heads havea reputation for being dangerous and while there are aheays hazards involved when using a table saw; there is ite isk when mo ing heads are used feve points to keep in mind: De not cut moldings on short lengths of wood: a Piece should be at least 12 inches long. Also, donot cat moldings on narrow ‘trips cat the moldings on pieces at last Finches wide and then rip to width. proper care. A Milling baseboard with molding cutters Three sets of entters were tsed int combination te transform a piece of wait into an elaborate base board molding at little cost (eft). ‘More tham 30 blade profiles are avcilable: by using different cur ters—also known as krives—on the same board, art innovative swooxdworker ean nail an almost limitless range of designs Tongue 40TABLE SAW INSTALLING A MOLDING HEAD Mounting a molding head and cutters Fit each of the thy cutters partway into its slat in the mold ing head, ensuring that the cutters beveled ecge faces away from the setscrew hole. install the setserews into their hales, then use a hex wrench to tighten each screw until the cutters are seated Ferny in their slats (inset), Install the moiding head on the saw with the flat side of each cutter facing the direc- tion of blade rotation. Grip the molding head with 2 rag to CUTTING A MOLDING protect your hand and tighten the arbar nut counterclockwise using a wrench (above). A washer is not necessary: the matd- ing head is rigid enaugh without reinforcement, After the molding head is secured, install a molding-heed table insert ‘on the saw table, Rotate the molding head by hand to make sure that the cutters are true and that the unit does not rub against the insert Sefting up and making the fst passes Betoce cutting @ molcing, screw a board to the rip fence a5 an aurliary fence. Position the auxiliary fence directly over the molding heed, ensuring that the metal fence is clear of the-cut- fers. Turn on the saw and crank up the molding head eraduslly to cuta notch in the auxiliary fence to allow for clearance of the cutters. Turn eff the saw, then line up the cutting line on the fend of the workpiece with the-cutters anc butt the rip tence ‘against the workpiece. Crank the molding head to its lowest seiting. To secure the workpiece, clamp cne featheraoar the fence above the saw blade, and a second featherboard to the saw table, Clamp @ suport board at a 90° angle to the second featherboard, as shown, Remove the workpiece and crank the cutters to X inch above the table; do not make a ful depth cut in one pace. Turn on the éaw and use your eight hand to slonty fees the workpiece toward the moiding head; use yout \efthand to ep the workpiece against the rip fence. Finish the cout with a push stick. For a deeper cut, make as mary passes asnecessary left, raising the molding head i inch at atime. alTABLE SAW ‘Making the final pass ‘After successive passes have pro: duced the depth of cut desired, crank the molding heed up very slightly end pass the workpiece through finel time at half the speed of previous passes (loft By feeding the worspiece slomiy, the final cut produces a smooth finish that requires minimal sanding. Separating the molding from the board After the proper profile has been cut, separate the molding from the workpiece. Remove the molding heed fram the arbor and installa rip or combination blade, FFead the bosrd through the blade, using 2 push stick to keep the workpiece firmly ‘on the table (right use your left hand or a featherboard to press it Hush against the rip fence. aTABLE SAW CUTTING A COVE MOLDING Setting the with Build a cove cutting guide in the shape of a porallelo gram by fastening two 28-inch-long 1-by-2s to twa 9-ineh- ‘ong 1-by-23 with wing nuts, foring two sets of parallel ams, Adjust the guide so that the distance between the incide edges of the two long arms is the same as the desired ‘width of the eove molding. Then crank up the lade to the maximum depth ofthe cove. Lay the guide diagonally across. the blade insert and rotate it until the blade, turned by hand, just touches both long arms of the g Marking the guidelines Using a pencil ar china marker, trace guidelines on the lable insert and sam table along the inside edges of the kong: arms of the guide (above), Then gutline the desired eeoile cf the cove ch the leading end of the workpiece. Remove the guide, crank the blade to its lowest setting and place the workpiece on the saw table, aligning the marked outline ca the workplace with the guidelines on the sae table Cuming he cove Butt.a guide boord against each edge of the workpieces use boards long enough to clamp.on opposite sides of the: table, Crank the blade 4 inch abone the table. To make the fiect pass, feed the workpiece steadily toward the blade with your left hand, while holding the workpiece against the table wwith your right hand. Finish the cut using @ push block. Make 135 many passes as necessary (Heft, raising the blade Ys inch at a time. For a deep cove, tack a backup board tothe top of the ‘workpiece to prevent it ftom splitting. For a smooth finish that requires little sanding, raise the blade very slighly fora last pass and feed the workpiece slomly into it 43Lap joure hespeedt and precision of. table sw make it an obvious choice for cut- ‘ting joints, particularly repeat cuts, Once susaw is adjusted tout one bax joint or ‘epen mortise-and tenon join, for exam pe, five or ten more can be cut in short ‘onder. The most time-consuming part is the setup; and much depends upon the ‘care taken at this point. A few extra min- utes spent at the beginning will result in 2 strong, long-lasting joint. As always, measure twice and cut once. Every joint has its own specific qual- ities and applications, Lap joints ae fre- quently used to make picture frames. MAKING A LAP JOINT Box joint Maule from two pieces of wood that have half their thickness cut away, lap joint is simple to make. When id clamped, it creates a strong joint that does not require reinforcement. also known as a finger {int is ideal for carcase work—for mak- ing drawers or boxes. consists of inter- locking pins and notches, which are TABLE SAW JOINERY Open mortiee-and-tencn joint generally one-half or one-quarter the stock’ thickness, Once used for mass- produced products such as packing box 5, the box joint creates strong joint by. virtue of the size ofthe large glue area ‘created by the pins and notches. The mortise-and-tenor: joint is often found in chairs and desks. Sometimes ‘alleda bridle joint, it consists of a jeetion—or tenon —from one board that slides into a slot—or open rortise—in another board. Like the box joint, it reguitesajig, which can be shoy-buit. ‘The following section describes how to make each af these useful jains, Curting aps with @ dado head Mark cutting lines forthe width of each tap on the leading edge of the workaiece, Butt one culting line agzinst the outside bade at the front cf the daca head, then position the rip feace flush egainst the worksiece. Slide the workpiece to the front ofthe table and Dress it fiemly against the fence end the miter gauge. Te make the cut, slide the gauge and the workpiece as a unit into the dado head, Keeping the warkpiece flush against the fence, (Tiss another exception 4p the general rule that the miter gauge and rip fence should not be used at the seme ‘ime.) Continue feeding the workpiece at a ‘steady rate until the cut is made. Make suc- ‘Sessne passes (lfth cutting away the waste until the lap fs completed, (Cawtion: Blade squard removed for clarity)TABLE SAW MAKING A BOX JOINT Setting up th Gut the notches fora box joint one at atime using a dado head end jig. Clamp e board to the miter gauge as an exten sion. Crank the dado heed to the cesired height of the natches and feed the extension into the dado head to create a nctch, Fosition the excencion on the miter gouge so that the gap betneen the notch and the dado head is equal to the natch width, then screw the extension to the gauge. Feed the exten- ‘on into the dado blade to cut a second notch (above, check- ing that the gap between the notches equals the natch width. Fit and glue 2 hardwood key into the notch so that the key projects about an inch fram the extension. Cutting the notches in the mating beste Fit the lest netch you cut in the first board over the kay, then butt one edge cf the mating board against the first board, holding both flush against the miter gauge extension, To cut the first notch in the mating baerd, slide the twa boards sorass tha table (right), then con ‘nue cutting notches in the mating, board following the same procedure you used for the first board. (Cutting the notches in the first board Butt one edge of the workpiece against the key, holding ittlush against the miter gauge extension, To cut the notch, hook your thumbs around the gauge and slide the workpiece into the dade head fabove). Return the workpiece te the front ‘of the table, ft the notch over the key and repeat the proce- dure. Continue cutting actches one after another until you reach the osposite edge of the workpiece‘TABLE SAW MAKING AN OPEN MORTISE-AND-TENON JOINT ‘Cutting the tenon cheeks ‘Create a tenon by cutting the checks first, andi then the shoulders. Install a ‘commercial tenoning jig on the table fal- lowing the manufacturer's instructions; the rradel shown slides inthe miter sat. Mark cutting lines on the workpiece to outline the tenon, then clamp the workpiece tothe jig. Crank the blade to the height of the tenon and postion the [ig 60 that one of the tenon cheek cutting lines is butted ‘against the blede. Use the jig handle to slide the jig along the miter gauge sict Icosen the clamp handle ta move it skie ways, Slide the jig to the front of the table and turn on the saw, then use your right hand to push the jig foward, feeding the workpiece into the blade (fefl, Continuz cutting at a steady rate until the cut is ‘completed, Pull the jig back tothe front of the table and turn off the sew. Turn the ‘workpiece around so that the enwaining ‘ating line forthe thickness ofthe tenon fs butted against the blade. Cut alon the same way as you mace the firs Sawing the tenon shoulders Screw boaad to the miter gauge 3 an extension. Then crank the blade to a height equal to the depth of the:tenon against the extension, align one cf the tenon shoulder cutting ines against the blade, then butt a stop block against the workpiece and clamp it in position Siide the workpiece to the front of the table and turn on the sam. Hack your thumbs around the miter gauge to feed the workpiece inte the biace and make the cut. Use a push stick to clear the waste piece of the table. Flip over the workpiece and butt it against the stop block, then cut the second shoul- det (ight). (Caution: Blade guard removed for clarity) 46TABLE SAW ‘Cutting the mortise ‘Reinstall the tenoning jig on the table. Mark cut ting lines on the worpiece to outline the mortise, then clamp the workpiece to the jig. Crank the blade to the depth af the mortise and pasition the jig sa that one of the cutting lines is butted against the blade. Slide the jig to the front of the table, then turn on the sew end feed the workpiece into the blace. Pull the jig back and turnoff the saw. Turn the workpiece aver so that the remaining cutting ling is butted against the blade and cut along t (lef). Make as many passes as neces: sary to remove waste between the two cuts. Test-it the joint and deepen or widen the mortise, ifnecessary. A TENONING JIE Build a fence-stradding tenoning jig using %-inch plywood cut to the suggested dimensions shown ot left. In.one corner of the jig body, cut a hole large ‘enough for your fingers to tit through, Screw a guide ‘board te the body directly behind the hole. The boarc Will hold the workpiece in position for the cul, Make sure that the baard és perfactly vertical. To hold the Jig body flush against the fence, screw a brace to the body with a spacer in between (inset) ‘To.use the jg, place It astride the fence as ‘shown. Butt the work- piece against the guide ‘and clamp it in place. Reposition the fence to align the cutting mark on the workpiece with the blade, then slide the ig along the fence unt the cut is completed. 47M voodworkers look on the radial arm saw as the table san’spoor cousin, suitable onky for rough crosscuts and other carpen- elated chores. There are several sons for this perception. One is that more woodworkers learn and. fine-tune their erafi on table saws than on radial arm saws, Table saws. also have fewer moving parts anu ae easier to set up. Consequently, many woodworkers base their first impressions as a result of working oon il-adjusted machines. ‘There is no denying that the table ssw isan excellent choice for the ofen repetitive chores of furniture making Nevertheless it s not the ideal stationary cutting tool for every- ‘one, Far repeat cuts, table sare usually repre aig to fed stock imo the blade with uniform results, And same figsare time-con- suming to build or costly to buy. Table saws also need a fair amount of roam to allow unhindered operation, Such space is ata premium in many home workshops. With the exception of crosscutting very wide boards, radi arm saws an duplicate just about any job a table saw can per: form. Even the crosscutting limitations are not severely restric: tive. Most radial arm saws can rip up toa width of 25 inches, sllowing you to cut a 4-foot-wide panel in half lengthwise. Moreover, the radial arm saw requires relatively lite workshop Ths jig w co the radial arm saw sith the blade in the standard cross- cutting position —90? to the rable. The jig ensures that mating boards will forts a perfectly square joint Augmented by a raised auxiliary table, the redial arm saw'—its bile turned rally —cuts che notches fora finger joint. 49 space. Since stock either remains siationary on the saw table or pases laterally across the table, the machine can be stationed perma neently against a wall A key advantage of the radial aren saw is that its blade rensains leas i cals—a boon to saety can be made without having to shift the workpiece. itself moves, » om the column and motor eling and rotating on its yoke. lows the blade tobe pulled through a workpieoe at almost any also makes simple work of setting up the machine for custom work. Butta take fall dvan- tage of the save’s capacity for cutting accurately, you must take the time to adjust the machine and keep it finely tuned. ‘Ona poorly adjusted machine, the radial arm saw’sf can be its Achilles’ heel. Ail ofits sliding and pivoting movements must be highly controlled, end its movable parts rmurst remain fixed when locked in position, Otherwise, the saw is condemned toa life of imprecise cuts. This holds true for any size machine, Radial arm saws typically range from 1107 harsepawer; the average home workshop moskl israted at 15 horsepower. Blade size typically ranges from 8 ta 24 the standazd hore naode has a 10-inch blade.ANATOMY OF A RADIAL ARM SAW he radial arm saw is essentially a circular saw suspended above a work table. For mast operations, the blade cuts through the workpiece and runsalonga kerf in a piece ofbardboard ‘or plywood that is glued! to the saw table, ‘The machine's many pivoting and sliding parts enable it to-carry the blade Yoke clamp hancle Looks yoke in fsed posizicn on arm: em ‘Supports yoke motor aS and blade Columa Supporte arm: Setacrews on Blade guard pig. Lower blade gus used for crasecutting Stand Supports saw, screvs on feet ane vel into a workpiece from. variety of dif- ferent angles and directions Sliding the yoke along the arm pulls the blade across the table for a-crosscut. Siviveling the rm an the column allows for miter cuts; themaximam range of the model illus- trated below is nearly 90° tothe right and 50° to the left. Tilting the motorand Miter clamp handle Locks arm in fea position on column; reicased to ewiv blade makes a bevel cut possible while rotating the yoke to bring the blade par- allel to the fence sets up the machine for aripeut, Dependingon the width of the stock ‘you need to cut two typesof rip cuts are ‘feasible: an in-rip, with the Blak turned closest to the colurm, and an out-tip, Yoke Holds motor and ‘Onto ewitoh Wade attached to set angles. Incuding "and Rornovable toggle ‘tha arm by a can 0" co the right amd left prevents accider- + riage unit with roller \ al etart-op bearings that slide along a track urder- heath the arm ‘Yoke handle _ Used £2 Bide yoke along arm for crosscutting Bevel clamp handle Locke: motor in fixed position on volar released fo set bevel angle er to move blade to ferizon- al position. Locks auto matically #t preset angies,incusding O° ard 45%, and 90" to the right and ef Blade quand clamp screw Haid quar Splitter Keeps wood kerf from bincinig ‘during a cut: anti-kickback fit- gers an each side of splitter preven workpiece from lFcing Elevating crank ~ Raises and lowers arms on colutin to set depth of cutwith the blade swiveled farthest away from the column. Although the blade is kept vertical to the table for most operations itcen also betilted to operate horizontally. Such 4 position is particularly useful for tasks such as eutting grooves, finger joints and moldings. Rip clamp handle Locke yoke in position on arm for rigging and fer some cute ‘with blade in horizontal posi- lon: released for crossoutt sory shaft for attacking a varlety of accessories \ nian Frovents workpiece from moving during croc: cuttings piece acrose table for oe ppg. Onnersitatalied Usuaity set botersar front. and rear tales a8 shows positioned f / Aunillary rable Replaceable hardboard ‘or plywood parte! qluéel ta front saw tarbl; blade une: in kerte cut in auc iliary table Table spacer —" Removable to allow inetalaion of a wider fence Bust spout: For dust colection yyatem. adjustable rowzle sivects dust nay from nork area / —_————————$_—_— Light and eompact enough to more raid the shop o travel to construc tion sites, this portable 88-inch radial arin saw can usurp the many roles of table sae. Fitted with a special bit and exquipped with av accessory motor shaft tha! tars at 18,500 rpms, this aad wil double as am overhecdl rou. ‘Arm cover Reops dust fram entering rear part of arm Miter clare f Adjustment screw Tumad to adjust ton- _> slon gn miter clamp: hole in arm cover pro- vides access Column adjust ment bolts Table clamp Presses rear saw tabs and spacer flush against fence and front saw babe —_ Cotman base coverSETTING UP "Tix site oceans deste on these pages may scem long and involved, but do not neglect them, Without careful maintenance, your machine will not cut with precision, A problem with many radial arm saws is that adjustments are left too loose, allowing excessive ply in moving parts and resulting in sloppy cuts. Ideally, -clamps should lock tight and sliding niechanisms should be neither too loose hor too snug. Adjust the table (right), the lamps (below) and the sliding mechanisms (Page 4) before every new project. Each time you use the saw, dear the sawdust fiom the gap between the table and the fence, and clear the track underneath the arm. Periodically touch up the moving Parts with slicone-based lubricant, tis also important to square the blade (page 55) and check for heeting (page $6). Before using your saw for the first time, you will need to install 2 fence aand an auxiliary table (page 37). To test your adjustments, crosscut a 12-inch- wide board and a L-by-3 standing on ‘edge, then check the cut ends with a carpenter's square. ADJUSTING THE CLAMPS ADJUSTING THE TABLE Leveling the cable with the arm Tilt tha moter until the arbor poln's dawn, its end slightly above table level Then Swivel the arm to pasition the artor over the rail nuts on both sides. of the table; in each position measure the gop between the arbor and the table If the measurements are not equal, raise the low end af the table by turning the rail nut in a clockwise direction, using the head af an adjustable wrench to lever Up the table surface (above). Then make the same adjustment on the other side af the table. Repeat the measurements te ensure that the table is level. ‘Aajusting the miter clamp Swivel the am to the right to @ position between O° and 45°, Lock the clamp and try to push the end ‘of the arm toward the O° position (left, theve is any play inthe arm, _acjust the clamp that holds it in place. For the madel shown, you will need tose a hex wrench ta tighten the miter clamp adjustment screw, foceted inside an access hole in the arm cover 52RADIAL ARM SAW Fine-tuning the yoke clamp Rotate the yoke to a position betneen the ones. used! {or crosscutting and ripping. Lock the clamp, then use both hands to try to push the motor tothe crosscutting posi- tion fright) The motor should not budge; if it does, adjust the clamp that locks itn postion. For the mocel shawn, uae ‘serew the knob from the yoke clamp handle end remove the wrench-like lower part of this device. Use the wrench fo tigiten the adjustment nut locate! uncer the arm by hold- ing the upper part of the handle and pulling the wrench toward it (inset) until the twa are aligned. Lock the clamp and check again for play. if necessary tighten the mut fur- ther: otherwise, serew the knot back in place. This adjust- ‘ment may vary on some models: check yeur cwner’s manual. 1 Nter niet cane Tilt the motor to a postion between (and 45°. Lock the bevel clamp, then use both hands ta try to move the motor (eft) If there is any locseress, ‘djust the Clamp. For the made! shown, Use a socket wrench to tighten the motor support nut, then release the clamp and try tfting the motor o each ofthe preset ‘angles: if you cannot mave the motor, loosen the support nut slightly. Other- wise, lock the clamp again and check ‘nice mare for playin the moter. 53RADIAL ARM SAW [Checking the rip clamp Lock the rip clamp, then wse both hands to try to slide the yoke long the arm fief). The yoke should at move; if it does, adjust the rip ‘clamp, For the macel shown, release the clamp, then use a wrench to tight- en the nut atthe end of the rip clamp bolt. Thy sliding the yoke along the arm; if it binds, loosen the lack nut slightly. Otherwise, recheck the clamp ‘end tighten the nut further if needed. CARING FOR THE SLIDING MECHANISMS Adjusting the carsinge roller bearings Use asilicone-based lubricant to clean track under the gem and the roller baarings tothe front and rear of the car- riage unit that attaches the yoke to the aim. To.check the bearings, press your thumb against each one ia turn while sliding the carriage away trom your frend The bearings should turn as the carriage slides along the aer IF your thumb keeps ‘eng of them ftorn turning, you wil need to ‘tighten the bearing; if the corriage bends ‘en the arm, a bearing will nead ts be loos- ‘ened. In either case, loosen the bearing nut while holding the bott stationary with aa second wrench (rig. Tighten or loosen the bolt, as necessary, then religion the nut. ‘Adjust the other bolt by the same amount, ‘hen check the bearings once again.RADIAL ARM SAW ‘Adjusting column-to-base tension ‘Wipe the column claan, then loosan the four setscrews on vibrates as it rises and lowers, adjust the four bolts located the front of the column hase using a hex wrench. To check inthe access holes on the cover of the base. Repeat the ‘columto-base tersion, use both hands to ty to lifithe end tests and, if necessory, make aditianal adjustments, Then of the arm (abore, left, there should belittle or no give to try pushing the arm sideways (above, righ, i there 's any the column. Turn the elevating crank in bath cirections; the rotation of the column, tighten the setscrews jast enough arm should slide smoathly up anid down. Wf there is excessive {2 preven movement. Run through the tests a final time, rmovervent af the column-lo-base joint or ifthe arm jumps.or fine-tuning the adjustments, SQUARING THE BLADE ‘Squaring the blade with the table Set the yoke in the cresscutting posi tion and install a blode (page 69). Release the bevel clamp and bik the mator counter: clochwite as far 35 it will goin the O° posi- tien. Them relock the clamp. To check the blade position, butt @ carpenter's squaee between twa teeth (eft The square should fit flush against the side cf the blade. If ‘ony gop show's between tha, rolease the ‘aevel clamp, Then, loosen the bevel clamp satscrews and titt the motor to bring the blade fluc against the square. Holding the ‘motor in this pstion, haw a helper lock the bevel clamp and tighten the setsczews. Tilt the mator to the 45° bevel positon, then return it te the O° position and check the blade once again. 55RADIAL ARM SAW Setting the arm perpendicular tothe fence Release the miter clamp and swivel the em to the right 9 far as it will goin the O® position, then relock the clamp. Release the rip clamp and butt the wo sides of a carpe: ‘ters equare against the fence and the blade ‘tooth nearest tothe table. Holding the blade steady, slide the yoke along the arm deft) palsy to. avi dling tn tooth. The blada Shauld make a constant rubbing sound 2s it ‘moves along the edge of the square. Ifa yap ‘opens up between the bled and the square, if tha blade binds against the square os it ‘ees, losen the stserevs on te coum base Toclose a gap between the blade and the square tighten the top right scree; ta elim. nate binding, tighton the top left screw, Once the arm is square tothe fence, tighten the low ‘sores, alternating front left to right. CORRECTING BLADE HEEL Fine-tuning horizantal ratation Install blade (page 59) and set the ‘motor in its horizontal sition; tit the mctar ‘counterclockwise 2s far a8 it wil 20, then lock the bevel clamp. To test for hee! ing—blade rotation that is nct parallel to the table—bulld an L-shaped sounding Jig and bore two hles in it. Sharpen the ends of two dowels and fit them into the jig'as shown. Then pasition the jig to align a blade tooth neor the back of the table directly over the vertical dowel Lower the blade unti! the tooth rests lightly en the dowel; ctamp the jig in place. Wearing a work glove, spin she blade backward and listen (righe). Next, slide the yoke along the arm to align a tooth near the frant of the table over the -domnel and repeat the test, The sound ‘should be the same in both positions. If tis net, release the bevel clamp and Icosen the two scrows on either sido of ‘the motor support nut. Repeat the tests ‘until the sound stays the same, then lock the bevel clamp end tighten the scraws, 56RADIAL ARM SAW Eliminating verticatheeling ‘Wt the motor counterclockwise as for as it will go inthe vertical position. then lock the bevel clamp. To test for vertical heeling, position the sounding jig 30 that the tip of the horizon tal dowel aligns with a blade tooth near the back ofthe table, Lower the biade and send it spinning backward so you can sam- pile the sound as in step 1 (above, eft), Slide the yoke along the arm and repeat the precess, once again listen ng for changes in INSTALLING A FENCE AND AUXILIARY TABLE tome. IF there is a dscreancy, release the yoke clamp ard loosen the four screws under the yoke using a hex wench above, right) Rotate the motor as necessary and retest until each test produces a similar tore. Then, ook the ox clamp an tighten the serees, To check your acjustments, crosscut a 12-inch-wide board and then a 1-by-3 standing an edge. Check the cut ‘ends using a carpenter's square. Cutting a Wer in the fence ane auxiiay table installa fence of Moinchethick, knot-ree wood between the table spacer andthe front table; rake the fence slightly higher than the tick ness of the workpiece. For an auxiliary table, ‘cut piace of H-inch hardboard or plywood ‘the sare size a the frit table and use con- tact cement to glue it down, leaving alight ‘gap between it and the fence to prevent saw- dust from jamming between the twa. Before crosscutting or making miter cuts, sice:through the fence and Veto Ys inch deep into the aun iliary table in the 90° and 45° paths of the lads, Than, rotate the mator tothe inrip position (page 66) and pull the yoke along, the-arm fo fur out @shellow rp trough in the auailiary table (eft,RADIAL ARM SAW BLADES AND ACCESSORIES L_Biitsteneonsinhe tiles the radial arm saw isonly as good as the blade on its arbor. To get the best perfor- mance from your machine, keep its blades clean and in good repair. Inspect the arbor washers and blade collars, and replace any damaged parts, Use arag to ‘wipe siwdust orloose dirt from ablade; remove resin or pitch with stel wool and turpentine. Spray-on oven deanerisalso usc dsoringstbhiom depots, To protect blades from damage, hang them individually on hooks ar, if you stack them, place cardboard between them. Replace blades whenever they become cracked or chipped; sharpen nnon-catbide tipped blades regularly. A dlall or damaged blade is more likely to contribute to accidents than a sharp blade in good condition. In general, he radial arm saw uses the ‘same types of blades as.a table saw (page 20). Combination blades are suitable for 90 percent of the jobs you will be doing. Blades for specific jahs, such as cross- cutting or ripping, are ako available. In Formed by the imersection of ene line drawn front the tip of a tooth 19 the center of the arbor hole and ome draw parallel to the rooth's face, ‘ale hook angle determines sow much bite a blade will rave any case, it is important io consider the hook angle ofa blade (lft). The larger the angle the bigger the bite—and the sreater the risk ofa blade running acrass a workpiece when crosscutting or lifting stock when ripping, In both cases, feed the blade through the workpiece slowly andl firmly. While a hook angle of 30° would be suitable for a table su, the same blade on the radial arm saw could prove unsafe, The ideal hook angle for a Tadial arm saw is 15° or less Carbide tipped blades are the choice of most woodworkers today. Although they cost more than the traditional high speed steel blades and are more expen- sive to have sharpened, they hold their ceaige considerably longer and are capable ‘of more precise cuts. In addition to save blades, the radial arm saw also accepts various accessories, which re attached to ether the arbar or anaccessory shaft at the opposite end of the motor. On some models, the shaft «an spinat nore than 20,000 pm, nsk- ing it ideal for poveering router bits. ACCESSORIES Sanding, Attached to the saw’s accesocry ashatti can be used in vertical, ar- ‘zontal, or bevel posizions. ia vert cal applications, arura is ewered inte a cutee in an auritary tabla ~ Drilting chuck Attached to acccesory shot: can be used ia horizontal or vertical 9 fC an ale lary table that elevates the workplace or with a head ttt eth Ee suniliary table that Wide variety of cutcers ‘available for different molding hes Use is hreontal poster can engi rr raised panels. Features threeRADIAL ARM SAW CHANGING A SAW BLADE Removing and installing blades Unplug the sew, lack the clamps and remeve the blsde guard, Then, fit one of the wrenches cupplied with the sa tn the arbor between the blade and the motor. Holding the arbor steady with this tool, use the cther wrench ta laasen the arbor nut (Redil arr sw arbors usually have reverse threads; the nut is oosened ina clockwise direction.) Remove the nut ‘nd the outer biade collar, then slide the blade from the arbor. To instal a blade, place it onthe arbor wih its teeth point: ing in the direction of blede rotation. instal the collar and stat the nt by hand. With one wrench on the arbor sranped against the table, finish tightening the nut (Jet), but avoid overtightening. Install the blade guard ‘SETTING THE BLADE HEIGHT Preparing to make a cut For a standard vertical cut, lower the blade into.one ofthe precut ker inthe auniiary table page 57), Fora cut partway through a werk piece, such as a dado cut, mark a line on the workpiece for the depth af cut, then set the stock en the auxiliary table and lower the Diade to the lina. For most saws, one turn of the etevating crank raises or lowers the blade 4 or Me inch. To gauge the crank an your sav, lower the blade to within ¥ inch of the sux iery table, then crank in the opposite direc- tion until the blade begins to move up. Hold 2 piece of scrap wood that is atleast 1 inch thick against the fence and cut inta it at one end. Turn off the saw and raise the blace by ‘exactly one turn af the elevating crank. Slide the workpiece about J inch to one side ancl make another cut (ght). The difference in ‘depth between the two cuts will shaw the amauat the blade raises or lowers with one turn of the crank 59SAFETY _A Bough the many maring pars aradial arm saw make it one of the most flexible machinesin the workshop, they also make it one of the most dan- gerous Crosscutting—the mins! basic wie of the sav—requites you to pull the blade toward your boy. And depending on the setting of the arm, yoke and eke oe Base dara from several directions and angles. With every Ca, you have to anticipate exactly where the blade will end up. When you ripboards ona radial arm save, you feed the workpiece into the RIPPING SAFELY Setting up forthe cat blade, and this demands even greater care and concentration. The chances of Kickback ae high enough that shesafery devices illustrated below and at right are absolutely essential, ‘Armed witha thorough knowledge of the machine's operation, you can 3p- proach it with ahealihy mixture ofeau- tion and confidence—as you would with, any other power taol in your workshop. Make certain that all the camps for holding the arm, yoke, carriage and moter in position arc locked whenever you turn on the saw, Also be sure to Unplug the saw, then set the workpiece on the table so that you will be feeding against the cirection ofthe blade’s rotation. {Mest blade guards have an arrow indicating which way the blade sins.) Follow the owner's manual instructicns far setting the neignt of the ant-kickback device 4nd for positioning the nose of the blade guard £0 that it jest clears the workpiece. For adéed protection against kickback, install a wheeled holc- clown device (pages 61 and 66}.cr spring-type hole-down fingers (page 61), Feed the workpiece steadily (above), making sure that neither hand 5 in line with the blade, familiarize yourself with the owner's and blade guacds thet are available. Remember, howevcr, that no aocessory or {guard can compensate fora lack of care- ful attention and common sense. For any cut, keep your fingers atleast inches away from the blade; use push sticks or featherboards where possible to feed or hold the workpicce. Wear safety lasses a all times, and a mask or respi- rator and hearing protectin for extenced use of the saw, RADIAL ARM SAW SAFETY TIPS + Never install alatos or other