The Reed'motor, courtesy of Nelson Camus

created on 02/26/98 - JLN Labs - last update on 03/27/98

This motor is based on the diagram below, courtesy of Nelson Camus. :

"This motor is able to run by itself and give FreeNRG from the magnets when the
aluminium sheets are removed from the blocking position (between the magnets).
After they are removed, the motor starts itself without stopping, like a real perpertual
motion motor. The coils 1,2,3,4 are used only for tapping the magnetic energy and
convert it into useable electrical power........
The Reed's motor is a North pole magnetic motor. To start the motor, it is necessary to
move a little disc (at the top) with your finger. Two brackets mounted in cross with
four aluminum sheets pass between the North poles on the top and the bottom of the
cylinder. When you turn the little disc with your finger, the two brackets in cross leave
the gap between the magnets.

When you insert the aluminum sheets mounted on the brackets between the
magnets with the same polarisation North, you STOP the motor.

When you turn the little disc clockwise, you START the motor.

This motor is a real perpetual motion motor.

The only power that you require is the power needed for turning the little disc with
your fingers during the startup. If you want more power, you need to use NIB magnets
for a bigger magnetic flux, so you can get more power."

Preliminary Adjustments :
1 - With the Aluminum sheets out, spin the rotor with your finger clockwise, insert the
magnet #1, then #2, the rotation will jump. In the first jump insert the magnet #3 and
#4 quickly.
The motor will still spinning.
2 - The magnets #1, #2, #3, #4 require to be far of the rotor magnets. Using an
screwdriver adjust the #1 down 1/2 turn in the bolt, follow with the #2, #3, #4, you will
have more speed.
NOTE: if one of the outside magnets has more repulsion than the next one, the motor
will stop. Take care.

3 - When the motor is in rotation you can stop it using the Aluminum sheets. Also you
can decrease the RPM with the same procedure.
4- The magnets #2 and #4 require to be no in 90 degrees -85 to 89 degrees adjustable
the elevation and azimuth.
If the motor stop or no rotate the azimuth and elevation of #2, #4 are notin the correct
angle.

Addtional comments from Nelson Camus :

"You don't need electric pulses to run the motor,

If you don't use aluminum sheets, the motor will never work.

It is necessary using a drum (cylinder), because the adjustment of the rear

magnet's elevation are very precise, to prevent the equilibrium of magnetic
forces. You need to move those magnets with your hands up or down every 45
degrees of rotation until to get 1 degree more getting repulsive force of the next
magnet and following with the next one,

The magnets in the drum need to be:

The front ones fixed, the rear ones mobile with adjustment and method to fix in
the drum when you get constant rotation, I used one bolt and nut in each
magnet.

The aluminum sheets are one of the most important part of the motor, they are
not only the switch ON and OFF, they prevent the equilibrium of magnetic
forces. The adjustment of rear aluminum sheets versus the front ones is very
precise. When you move out to the back the front ones the rear sheets are
moving to the front 1 degree less then the front ones. When I have built the
motor, I have used different types of thread in the front axle versus the rear one
who support the front and rear aluminum sheets. This axle you turn clockwise
using your finger according the diagram.

I have got 600 RPM with ferrite magnets, 3000 RPM with NIB magnets and up
to 300 Watts/hour free electricity output with no electrical input....

Following my instructions you will get every thing done....." (Nelson Camus)

Nelson Camus has said to me that he has built himself his own model in 1993 and that
he has succeed to obtain a self-running motor without external power during a period
of 6 months !! Today, unfortunately, the box containing the Nelson's model has been
lost/stolen during his latest move to his new adress....

The Quantum Magnetic Motor Project

Tests and Design by Jean-Louis Naudin/M.David
created on 02/26/98 - JLN Labs - last update on 03/27/98

Click here for the blueprints and adjustment procedures

The new QMM Mk10 - under tests (with NIB magnets)

The QMM Mk10 with the top cover removed

Tests Reports by Jean-louis Naudin

For the tuning, I have added an external powered DC motor, the rotor speed is
measured with a hall probe and an oscilloscope.
(03-21-98) Tests report :
The turn speed with the external powered motor is 1600 RPM without magnets
1,2,3,4. When I add the magnets #1, #2 and then after the magnets #3 and the #4 the
speed does not change significantly and also the power input for poweering the tuning
motor. I have checked many different setups (air gap/ offset angle of the stator
magnets, different magnets strength....) and I have always unfortunately the speed
remain constant......The turn speed is measured with an external hall probe and the
oscilloscope, this give me a precise measurement, for instance when I insert an 6mm
aluminum sheet I can see on the scope the pulse periode increased quickly, this shows
that the speed of the motor drops also quickly due to the eddy currents induced in the
aluminum sheet......The NN and SS air gap is 20mm and the rotor has 110mm diam,
magnets are NIB (27Mgoe) 22mm diam and 10mm thick. the main shaft is mounted
on balls bearings. The actual tests has been conducted without the aluminum sheets
and their brackets.
(03-27-98) Tests report :

The speed was measured with the hall probe, and the QMM has been tested with differents
magnets configuration according to the "Preliminary adjustements" procedure above.
1N : with the stator magnet #1 (North-North)
1N2S : with the stator magnet #1 (North-North) and the stator magnet #2 (South-South)
1N2S3N : the magnet #1 (North-North), the magnet #2 (South-South) and the magnet #3
(North-North)
1N2S3N4S : the magnet #1 (North-North), the magnet #2 (South-South), the magnet #3
(North-North) and the magnet #4 (South-South)
The distance between the rotor N-N and the rotor S-S was 7" (17.8cm) according to the
latest advice from Nelson Camus about the main design.
Some adjustements about the airgap between the repulsive magnets and the offset angles
has also been conducted. Unfortunately has you can see in the worksheet below the speed
was constant...

Tests are not yet finished, the adjustments of the QMM Mk10 must be very precise
and with the NIB magnets the working area seems very hard to find. Nelson has said
to me that his first tuning phase has needed up to three months....

More to come soon.....