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Whiskey Basic: How Is Whisky Made?
Whiskey Basic: How Is Whisky Made?
The world of whisky is an exciting place with much diversity and innovation, but can
be a daunting and intimidating. There are so many distilleries in Scotland and
around the globe, all distilling different styles of spirit in their different ways,that it
can be easy to get confused. .
other rock. The liquid combination of malt and water is called the 'mash'. It is put into a large
vessel called a mash tun and stirred for several hours.
Whisky or whiskey?
Whether it is whisky or whiskey has been the basis of many arguments over many years. The
Scots spell it whisky and the Irish spell it whiskey, with an extra 'e'. This difference in the
spelling comes from the translations of the word from the Scottish and Irish Gaelic forms.
Whiskey with the extra 'e' is also used when referring to American whiskies. This 'e' was taken to
the United States by the Irish immigrants in the 1700s and has been used ever since. Scotland,
Ireland and America all have a rich heritage in the whisky industry. So what are the differences
between the whiskies from these three nations?
The distillation process
It is here that one of the main differences occurs. generally, Scottish and American whiskies are
distilled twice and Irish whiskey is distilled three times (there are exceptions to the rule, in all
cases). Distilling three times produces a lighter and smoother spirit.
The stills
The size and shape of the stills used in the distillation process are different. In Ireland and much
of America, pot stills are frequently used. These are short, fat, large stills with a round base that
produce softer and more rounded spirits. In Scotland, distilleries use a wide variety of shapes and
size of still and this gives wider diversity of characters and flavours.
The use of peat
In Scotland it is common to use peat to dry the malted barley so that it is ready for milling and
mashing. The type of peat used and the length of time the barley is drying in the peat smoke will
influence the flavour in the final spirit. This gives Scottish whisky its fullness and traditional
smokiness. In Ireland and America, they use wood or other fuels in this process and this makes
the spirit less smoky and lighter. Again, there are exceptions. For example, in Ireland Connemara
use peat and produce a very smoky range of whiskies.
The use of grains
The Scots use malted barley in most whisky that is produced, however this is not the case in
Ireland. They also use malted barley, but may mix other grains in with it. Traditionally Ireland
has had a poorer economy than Scotland and barley is expensive to buy. Therefore, it is cheaper
to use other grain to produce whiskey. This grain whiskey lends itself to blending and historically
it has been used to make cheap blends. In America, the new settlers were forced to use different
raw materials to produce their whiskey due to the different climate and soil conditions. This
included mixing different grains together during the mashing process depending on what was
available. Over time, these different recipes of grain mixtures have evolved so that now,
American whiskey bears very little similarity to Scottish or Irish whiskies.
The distilleries
The oldest registered distillery in Ireland is Bushmills, which has been in production since 1608.
In Scotland, the oldest one opened in 1772 (Littlemill, which has now closed down). Glenturret
is the oldest current distillery in operation, opening in 1775. In Scotland there are currently over
80 distilleries in production but in Ireland there are only three. These three are the result of
smaller distilleries joining together. The current distillers adher to the traditional recipes and
techniques from each of the original distilleries. This gives the resulting whiskies their own
individual characteristics. The three distilleries are Bushmills, Midleton (which produce
Jameson's, Powers, Paddy, Tullamore Dew and Midleton) and Cooley (Connemara, Kilbeggan,
Locke's and Tyrconnell). The first American distilleries were set up in the late 18th century in
Bourbon County, Kentucky. Nowadays, only seven of these are still in operation in Kentucky,
with none actually in Bourbon County These seven distilleries are Bernheim, Buffalo Trace, Four
Roses, Jim Beam, Maker's Mark, Wild Turkey and Woodford Reserve and they produce many
different whiskies using a unique, traditional recipe for each. The other major production area in
America is in the neighbouring state of Tennessee, although only two distilleries remain in
operation George Dickel and Jack Daniels.
Single malt whiskies are produced in various locations around the world, but the most popular
and well known are made in Scotland, Ireland and Japan. Single malt whisky can only be called
'scotch' if it comes from Scotland.
Vatted whisky
Vatted whiskies are also produced by mixing different types of whisky together. However, in this
case only a mix of single malts are used. These whiskies may be from the same or different
distilleries, have been matured in different types of cask and be of differing ages. A vatted
whisky can by definition therefore contain just two differing whiskies, but commonly contain
more. Therefore an easy way to remember the difference between the two is - blends are a
combination of different single malts AND grain whiskies, while vattings are a combination of
different single malts.
Aged blends
Blended and vatted whiskies have traditionally rarely had any age stated on the label. This is now
changing with many brands adopting age statements. This can be a little confusing, especially
now that you know that whiskies of differing ages will be included in the blend. When an age is
shown this refers to the age of the youngest whisky present in the blend. Other whiskies included
will therefore be of the same age and older.
The answer is to build up experiences of tasting different things that are unrelated to whisky and
taking a 'taste snapshot' of the characteristics of that flavour. The more that you do this, the better
and more precise your whisky tasting will become. Another key is that whisky is unlike most
other spirits in that the true character comes through after some time, so it is important not to
drink it too quickly. It is important to remember that taste is a personal thing and that there are no
right or wrong answers.
The glass
The type of glass that you use will help your cause massively. It is best to use one that has a
narrow opening as this will channel and concentrate the aromas of the whisky towards your
nostrils. This type of glass is called a snifter, but a similar shaped wine or brandy glass would
work just as well. Some come with an additional glass plate (as seen above) that is placed over
the top of the glass and this plate helps to trap the aromas. Glasses such as tumblers or those with
a wide rim should be avoided for tasting purposes, as the aromas dissipate too quickly. These
should be used for drinking the whisky on its own, with ice or when less analysis is needed.
The nose
This is the sensation and aromas that you pick up from the whisky before tasting it. Important
characteristics can be found and should give an indication as to what the whisky will taste like.
Pour a reasonable amount of whisky into the glass and swirl it around for a short time, so as to
allow oxygen to get to the liquid and evaporation to begin. This is important as the whisky has
been trapped in a cask or a bottle for all of its life until this point and needs a little time to
express itself and start to show its true characteristics.
Once you have swirled allow the spirit to settle so that your first sensations will not be full of
alcohol. Take a note of the colour while you are waiting during this short time - holding it against
a white background is a good tip. Now put your nose to the glass and breathe in, letting the
aromas circulate around your nostrils. Repeat this three or four times and think about what the
aromas remind you of are they light, fresh, heavy, rich, fruity, floral, spicy, smoky etc. You will
often find that your first sniff will be full of alcohol and that you may not pick up much.
However, the second, third and fourth sniffs should reveal more each time as your nostrils get
used to the high strength of the spirit. From this, try to predict what the taste of the whisky will
be like.
The palate
The flavour of the whisky on your palate should be the most rewarding and enjoyable part of the
whole process. The most important thing is not to drink the whisky too fast (like a shot of cheap
Tequila), rather to savour it in your mouth to get the maximum flavour and benefit. Different
parts of your tongue and mouth respond to different flavours and stimuli, so pass the whisky over
all areas of your mouth to gain maximum effect.
Upon swallowing, there will be an alcoholic burn, which is one of the main things that puts a lot
of people off drinking whisky. It is important to let this pass as it is now that any whisky will
reveal its true characteristics. Try to identify obvious flavours that are present and repeat, trying
to identify something new each time. Remember, there are no right or wrong answers and
everyone's taste buds are different so don't worry if you get a flavour that someone else doesn't or
vice versa.
The finish
The finish is the after taste that comes once you have swallowed the whisky. Some people say
that the complexity of the finish in whisky is what differentiates it from all other spirits. Once
you get passed the alcoholic burn, then numerous flavours can reveal themselves, some of which
can be extremely subtle. The list can be extensive but again try an relate the flavours and
sensations to things that you have tasted in the past. Also, ask yourself whether the flavours
remain for a short, medium or long time. This is called the length of finish.
Should I add water or ice?
A common question and one that only you can answer. It is all down to personal taste. Always try
whisky in its natural state first and then add water as this can release further flavours and
complexity, especially in higher alcohol level or cask strength whiskies. Try to think of it as the
same as if you tried to drink orange squash or cordial without diluting it. It is far more pleasant
with water in some cases and how much water you add is up to you, dependent on your taste. Ice
is different as it drops the temperature sof the whisky and inhibits some of the characteristics
from emerging.
Chill filtration
The process of chill filtering is where substances in the whisky are removed before bottling. The
main reason to chill filter a whisky is actually purely cosmetic. A non filtered whisky that is 46%
ABV or lower will go cloudy when water or ice is added and when the whisky is cooled. This is
seen as undesirable by some consumers, and the distillers react to this by removing the offending
particles from the whisky, so that this does not occur. The distillers want their whisky to be seen
as a top quality product. Whiskies above 46% ABV do not require chill filtration, as the higher
alcohol level prevents this cloudiness forming.
What causes cloudiness?
Cloudiness is caused by the presence of natural fatty acids, esters and proteins in the whisky.
These all occur naturally during the distillation process, but some are also imparted from the
casks during maturation. When the whisky is cooled, these fatty acids, esters and proteins clump
together to give the cloudy effect. A whisky that is not chill filtered is also likely to develop
sediment in the bottle if stored in a cool place. Both cloudiness and sediment are seen as
undesirable characteristics by the wider whisky drinking audience. During the early 20th century,
it was realised that these perceived 'faults' could be 'fixed' by chilled the whisky down. The result
was that these elements could be removed easily.
The process
The process of chill filtration involves dropping the temperature of the whisky to zero degrees
Celsius in the case of single malts and -4 degrees in the case of blends. The temperature for
blends is lower as they contain grain whiskey and these have a lower natural concentration of the
fatty acids. Once chilled, the whisky is passed through a series of tightly knit metallic meshes or
paper filters under pressure. The amount of residue collected depends on the number of filters,
the pressure used and the speed with which it is done. The slower a whisky is passed through the
filters at a lower pressure, then the more residue will be collected but this is also more costly.
During this process, any other sediment or impurities from the cask (called 'coals') that are
present will also be removed.
Good or bad?
The subject of chill filtration is a current hot topic in the whisky industry. It is looked upon badly
by some, as consumers demand more natural or organic products in all areas of their lives. The
other contentious issue is whether chill filtering a whisky affects the final flavour. Those against
it are convinced that the removal of the natural fatty acids, esters and proteins must alter the
aroma, flavour and characteristics, leaving you with a diluted and inferior product. Those for the
procedure argue that the taste and characteristics remain intact and that filtering gives better
control to produce consistently high quality whisky. In reality, it is difficult to compare as no one
releases the same whisky in a chill filtered and non chill filtered form. The argument continues ...
Influence of peat
Peat is found all over the British Isles and it is the use of peat in the Scottish whisky industry that
helps to produce a drink that has a unique flavour within the world of spirits. Peat is earth that
consists of grasses, moss, tree roots, dead animals and soil that has become tightly compacted
over thousands of years.
Use in the whisky industry
Historically peat has been used in the whisky industry, especially as in many places it was the
only consistent source of fuel. The process detailed below is time consuming and the use of peat
dwindled as other fuels, such as coal and electricity, became more widely available. Now it is
largely confined to the islands of Scotland - naturally they now have other fuel sources but many
of the whiskies remain well known for their smoky, peaty flavours. Therefore, the distilleries
have chosen to keep the practice so as to keep the distinctive flavours in their whiskies.
The peat is cut by hand using specialised tools and the resulting 'sod' is then left to dry in the
open air for approximately two-three weeks. After this time, the peat is collected and then taken
to the distillery. Most of the time the peat used is local to the distillery or cut from property
owned by the distillery. The peat is burnt underneath the malted barley to stop its germination
(see How is whisky made for further explanation). Peat is so tightly compacted and dense that it
burns for a long time and with consistent heat and acrid smoke. This is also why it is still used as
a domestic fuel in some areas of Scotland, especially the islands.
Different characteristics
Peat is one reason why different distilleries have different characteristics in their whiskies. Peat
smoke produces contains chemicals called phenols and these phenols are absorbed by the malted
barley during the drying process in a kiln. The level of phenols are controlled by the length of
time that the barley is exposed to the smoke, the amount of smoke produced and the type of peat
used. The smoke that has been absorbed is then carried through the entire whisky making process
and right in to your glass.
Phenols
Once finished, the malt is taken away for mashing and the phenol level is measured. This level is
known as the PPM Phenol Parts per Million. A distillery will always have the same PPM for
their malt and this value is also measured in the final spirit. Some is lost during distillation so the
PPM is always lower at the end, roughly one third of the level of the original PPM in the malt.
The PPM figure most commonly used is that of the malt. Most whisky has some smokiness but
in most the PPM value is so low (eg. 15 PPM) that it is virtually undetectable. In smokier
whiskies, it is easier to detect these levels as the PPM levels increase.
PPM values
Here are some examples of PPM values of some well known distilleries
(the approximate PPM of their malt is in brackets in increasing value)
Bunnahabhain (12)
Bruichladdich (34)
Springbank (78)
Benromach (8)
Ardmore (1015)
Bowmore (2025)
Talisker (2530)
Ledaig (35)
Lagavulin (3540)
Laphroaig (4043)
Ardbeg (55)
Longrow (55)
Influence of wood
How are whisky casks made?
The art of making whisky casks is a highly skilled and traditional practice called coopering.
Nowadays, modern machinery aids the cooper (the name given to someone who makes casks and
barrels) but it still takes years of training to reach the required industry standards.
The oak trees are only cut down when they have reached sufficient maturity. This is when
the tree is roughly 7.5 metres (25 feet) tall and 1 metre (3 feet) in diameter.
The trunks are transferred to a sawmill. Here they are sawn into planks from which the
correct length of the staves are cut. A stave is a small plank with a sophisticated curved
surface that links together to form a circular barrel.
Traditionally a cask is formed of 32 staves with 15 more being used to seal the ends.
In order to bend the staves to the correct shape, they are exposed to fire. Also, most
bourbon distilleries in America deliberately char the inside of the casks as a common
practice. This is done to help with the penetration of the spirit into the wood.
A cooper planes down the staves so that they fit together tightly without leaking. This is
done naturally without the use of nails or any glue and the staves are held securely in
place by metal hoops.
Wood is a porous material and the distillers want the whisky to interact with the air.
Therefore, no varnish or paints are used on the casks to allow the wood to breathe.
A hole is then drilled in the side in order to allow easy checking on the progress of the
whiskys maturation and final emptying.
A short, fat, dumpy barrel with a very wide diameter, made from very thick staves of
French oak. As the name suggests, these drums are used in the Madeira wine industry and
are occasionally used for finishing some whiskies.
This is a tall, thin barrel made from thick staves of European oak. It looks like a regular
barrel that has been stretched from each end. They are used to mature Port wine and are
used in the whisky industry for finishing.
A tall, narrow cask made from thick staves of European oak and they are widely used
throughout the sherry industry in Spain. Butts are the most common type of sherry casks
used by the whisky industry.
There are two styles of puncheon cask. The most common is the machine puncheon,
which is short, fat and made from thick staves of American oak. The second is the sherry
shape puncheon, which is more elongated and made with thinner staves of Spanish oak.
They are used in the rum and sherry industries respectively and are mostly used to finish
whisky.
These are the casks that are widely used throughout the wine industry. They differ from
many other types of casks or barrels as they are bound with wood strips rather than the
regular metal hoops. Used to give whisky a wine cask finish.
The word hogshead derives from the 15th century English term hogges hede, which
referred to a unit of measurement equivalent to 63 gallons. Now made from American
white oak, hogsheads are widely used for maturing bourbon and then sent to Scotland and
Ireland. They are one of the most common types of cask used for maturing whisky.
The ASB (American Standard Barrel) is derived from the hogshead with the capacity
rounded down to 200 litres for modern ease of use. Made from American white oak, they
are widely used in the bourbon industry and then are very commonly used in Scottish and
Irish whisky maturation. If you have a bourbon cask matured whisky, it will almost
certainly have been matured in a hogshead or ASB.
A cask made to be a quarter of the size of an ASB, while remaining in proportion. Highly
reactive with spirits as there is so much contact between the spirit and the wood. Used to
give whisky flavour quickly. Also known as a firkin by brewers.
A small cask used mostly in brewing beer, but very occasionally used by distilleries to
mature special runs of whisky. They have an elongated oval shape that was designed to
make them easy to carry on horseback.
work with, has tight grain that prevents leaking, is porous and allows oxygen in and out of the
cask and it can be bent by heat without splitting.
Wood is full of naturally occurring oils called vanillins. It is these oils that are drawn out of the
cask by the spirit and over the period of maturation they add to the whiskys flavour profile. So if
all whisky is matured in oak casks, then how can they all be different when tasted? The character
of the distillery, the ingredients used, the size and shape of the stills and its location are all
important but the major factor is the type of oak cask used for maturation. There are three main
types of wood used by the whisky industry.
European oak (Quercus robur)
This type of oak has traditionally been used to mature whisky in Scotland and Ireland for nearly
two centuries. The first casks were made from English or Scottish oak but these species of tree
were slow growing with twisted trucks and grain and this made the casks prone to leaking. Later
Russian oak was imported as this gave more consistent wood structure due to the trees being fast
growing with straight trunks.
In the 1860s, the importing of sherry from Spain to the UK started. The casks used to mature and
transport the sherry were made from Spanish oak and had similar properties to Russian oak but
were much cheaper. This oak is traditionally grown in the Galicia region of northern Spain and
although the sherry industry has declined since the 1970s, Spanish oak is still commonly used
and sought after. This is despite the price of a sherry cask costing nearly 10 times as much as a
bourbon cask.
The other type of European oak commonly used in modern whisky maturation is French oak.
This is traditionally made into casks for the wine industry and these are mostly used by
distilleries to give a different finish to their whiskies.
Flavour key words - sherry, dried fruits - sultanas, raisins, candied peel, spices - cinnamon,
nutmeg, wood, caramel, orange, Christmas cake.
American oak (Quercus alba)
This has only been used in the whisky industry since the end of the Second World War. At that
time, the Cooper's Union and lawyers formulated the law that stipulated that all American
whiskey had to be matured in new wooden casks. This was done to boost the coopering industry
that had collapsed during Prohibition in the 1920s and 30s. As a result, there was a massive
increase in the number of casks available. The American bourbon whiskey industry slowly
recovered from Prohibition and the Scots and Irish began using their casks for maturation. This
was due to the good availability and price of bourbon casks compared to the more traditional
sherry casks, whose numbers were declining and becoming more expensive.
American oak is seen as perfect for whisky cask construction as the trees are fast growing with
tall straight trunks, giving good quality wood and high levels of vanillins. The size of cask
produced (known as an ASB - American Standard Barrel) is also considered to mature whiskey
at the optimum rate as there is the perfect ratio between the amount of liquid and the surface area
of the inside of the cask. The result of this is that nearly 90% of all the world's whisky is now
matured in American oak bourbon casks.
Flavour key words - vanilla, honey, nuts - coconut, almonds, hazelnuts, butterscotch, fudge,
spices - ginger.
Japanese oak (Quercus mongolica)
Also known as mizunara oak, this type of wood is used in the Japanese whisky industry.
Mizunara has been used since the 1930s and gives the whisky a unique set of flavours. The wood
has extremely high levels of vanillins but is soft and very porous, making the casks made from
mizunara oak very prone to leaking and easily damaged. As a result, the practice of maturing
whisky was modified in order to reduce these factors. Now most Japanese whisky is matured in
either bourbon or sherry casks and then transferred to mizunara casks to gain its flavoursome
characteristics.
Flavour key words - vanilla, honey, floral - blossom, fresh fruit - pears, apples, spice - nutmeg,
cloves, wood.
Scottish pronounciation
The names of most scottish whisky distilleries are determined from their location. Many of these
are derived from the Gaelic language and a lot of people find them hard to pronounce. Having
heard some very funny attempts at some of the distillery names, here is a guide to tackle some
Gaelic pronounciation. some are easier than others. Below is a list of some of the trickier ones,
with the correct pronounciation in brackets. While it can be confusing, hopefully this will help
give you an understanding of the Scottish names.
The distilleries
AlltaBhainne (oltavane)
Auchentoshan (ockentoshun)
Auchroisk (arthrusk)
Balvenie (balvaynee)
Bruichladdich (brookladdie)
Bunnahabhain (boonaharvun)
Caperdonich (kappadoenick)
Cardhu (kardoo)
Clynelish (klineleesh)
Craigellachie (craigellakey)
Dailuaine (dalyewan)
Edradour (edradower)
Glenallachie (glenallakey)
Glenfiddich (glenfiddick)
Glenglassaugh (glenglassoff)
Glenmorangie (glenmorrunjee)
Glenugie (glenoojee)
Lagavulin (lagavoolin)
Laphroaig (lafroyg)
Ledaig (laychuck)
Pittyvaich (pittyvek)
Strathisla (stratheyela)
Tamdhu (tamdoo)
Tamnavulin (tamnavoolin)
Te Bheag (chayvek)
Teaninich (teeninik)
Tomintoul (tomintowel)
Tullibardine (tullybardee)