Claude Lévi-Strauss
TRISTES
TROPIQUES
Translated from the French by
JOHN AND DOREEN
WEIGHTMAN
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Contents
PART ONE. AN END TO JOURNEYING
1. Setting Gut
12. On Hoard Ship
3. The West Indes
4 The Quest for Power
5. Looking Back
6. The Making of an Anthropologist
7. Sunset
8. The Doldrums
9. Gaanabare
10, Crossing the Tropic
28, Sto Paso
12, Towns and Countryside
13. Pioneer Zone
14, The Magie Carpet
35, Crowds
16. Markets
xy. Parana
28, Pantanal
19, Nalike
20, A Native Community and its LifeStyle
5
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2
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3
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8
95
109
7
134
143
ast
153
161
170
178lade
1, Setting Out of - de
hate travelling and explores, Yet here Iam proposing to tll the story
of my expedition. But how long it has taken me to make up my mind
to doo Tt is now fifteen years since I left Brasil for the last time and
all during this period T have often planned to undertake the present
‘work, but on each occasion a sort of shame and repugnance prevented,
sme making a start. Why, T asked mysall, should T give a detailed
focount of eo many trivial drcumetances and insignificant happenings? _
“Adventure has no place inthe antheopologist's profession; it merely |
‘one of those unavoidable drawbacks, which detract from his effective
| vot through the incidental loss of weeks or months; there are hours
‘of inaction when the informant is not avallable; periods of hunger, |
‘exhasstion, scenes perhaps; and always the thousand and one dreary
sks which eat away the days to no purpose and reduce dangerous
living in the heart of the virgin forest to an imitation of maltary
service... The fact that so mich effort and expenditure has to be
‘wasted on reaching the object of our studies bestows no Yale on that
‘spect of our profession, and shouldbe sen rather asits negative sie,
‘The truths which we seek sofa afield only become valid when they have
‘been separated from this dros, We may endure ix months of travel-
ling, bardcips and sickening boredom forthe parpose of recording (i
few days, or even afew houts) hitherto unknown myth, a new marrage
rule ofa complete list of lan names, but is it worth ray while taking
“ip my pen to perpetuate sach a useless shred of memory or pitiable.
recollection as fhe folowing: ‘At fve thirty in the morning, we entered
the harbour at Recife amid the sri exes of the gull, while a eet of
boats laden with tropical fruits astered round the bul?
‘Nevertheless, this kind of natative enjoys a vogue which I, for my
part, ind incomprehensible. Amazonia, Tibet and Africa fil the book
Shops inthe form of travelogues, accounts of expeditions and collections
fof photographs, in all f which the desire to impress ie so dominant as
tnake it impossible for the reader to assess the value of the evidence
Dt befote him, Instead of having his critical faculties stimulated, he
{sks for more such pabulum and swallows prodigious quantities of it.
‘Nowadays, being an explorer isa trade, which consists not, as one night)"
‘thinkin discovering hitherto unkown facts afer years of study, but in
covering @ great many miles and assembling lantern-sides or motion8 ax Exp To JouRNEYING
pitas, preferably i cl, soto fl all wth an andience for
{evel da in sucesso, or thie eudence,platitodes and common:
‘ces seem to have been miraclouly tanimted into revelations by
{be sle fact that their author, insted of ding his plagiareng
aos spiel saciid by covering some tnt Hound
‘What do we lean from these lustre lectures, and what do we
find in the travel books? We are tld the exact number of packing
caves that yan required, or about the midemeanours of the ships
dog and, interspersed atong the aneolote, ae saps of hackneyed
istomation which have appeared in every textbok during the past
Sty yar and are presented with remarkbleftenty anette
nevrtheles perfectly in keping with he nave and iorace ofthe
fodiens) a a evidence or even orignal sre. No doubt tere
ase exception, and every prod has had is gene taveles I cold
uate oe or two among those wh enjoy public favour atthe present
Aine, Bat my aim ie nlter to condemn hones ver to eward diplomas
ageninensn, bt rather fo nderstand amoral and socal phenomenon
‘ich is eopeilly pent #o France and, even ere, has made ie
"ppearance oly very recent
"Fenty years or go, peopl travel very itl and it was not
tal ike the Salle ley), fled to capacty ve or se days ening
which extended a welcome toler of tales The only place In Pats
which eatered for this hind of thing was a smal gloomy, ley and
Salted smphithetre in am ancien bing atthe fared ete
Sin de Panes There, the Sot de Amie Mastum held ad
‘etaps sl holds weekly lnctures onthe natural sence
“The projector, which wasted with inadequate bulb, thew faint
images nto am verdarge sree, an the leur, however lzly he
peered, could hardly diem ther otlins, whl forthe pubic they
were warely stings from the damp stuns onthe walls A
{uarer of an hour alter the adverts starting tine, the lecet
‘ould stil be desperately wondering i there would be any acne,
yt fom the hundfl organ ated attra hee a these
‘ong the tere rows. Just when be was about to abandon hope, the
inetoreroom wooit Al ap tohaifcapacity th cidrn accompanied
{by thie mother or nirsemaie, ome eager fra tree change of ete,
ethers weary ofthe dust and ole outst, To this mistre of moth
taten ghosts and resis Infants the lecturer was privileged —ae the
Spree reward for so mich efor, cae and hard work ~ fo reveal is
Desows sore of memories, which were permanently edeced by the
St he ety awl eu i eae
lt sipping sway fom him and faling ey on ie pbs fo the
‘bottom of a well, sepals me
sertine our 1»
Sveh, then, was the anthropologat’s seta —only a shade more
dismal than the ceremony which had marked his departure; this was a
banquet given by the Comité France-Amérique in a mansion on what is
now the Avenue Franklin Roosevelt; the bulding was uninhabited, and
1 professional caterer, hired forthe eccaion, would arrive two hours
‘belore and setup camp with his stoves, pater and dishes, and yet a