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eae bed (or Many of the pretty girfs in Paris forgo jewelry altogether, or stick to a dainty single piece to delicately emphasize their charms, but around the Canal Saint Martin, the cradle of bobo living, a penchant for statement-making acces- sories shows on the hands, necks, and ears of the girls defining this look. At the heart of these statements are the local jewelry designers who have taken creative refuge in the neighborhood's village-like, bohemian vibe, and forged a place for unusual and bold jewelry. ‘On a warm evening, almost every inch of the canal's cement banks are occupied by picnic gatherings and couples getting romantic, and among girls in perfectly pretty dresses and feminine fiats, you spot a few daring ones, wear- ing brightly enameled halt-circle rings, long, gold-plated necklaces with large, abstract forms dangling from them, or plastic cuff bracelets with adorned by mod dome shapes, and these girls should quietly be giving thanks to the tal- ented Vivika Bergstrom for moving to their neighborhood. Having designed for Paco Rabanne, she knows how to tum out a good mod piece which is beautiful enough to make the girls venture into bolder style waters. Originally from Sweden, she opened her shop by the Canal St. Martin because she was charmed by the unique feeling of the neighborhood, which has been transformed into a quarter for designers and artisans. ‘The playful, appealing designs of the aptly named Medecine Douce line, across the canal in a storefrontiworkshop space, are attention-getters in their own right, yet they retain a delicate aesthetic which allows even large pieces to be quite wearable. A group of colorful feathers, neatly fit into a brass clamp, create an interesting and not over- whelming necklace. Bright colors like aqua blue, orange, pistachio, and white are used in gentle proportion with ‘metals of brass and gold color. Marie Montaud, the designer of the line, clearly has a way with style and proportion, ‘one that is not overly given to trends, yet looks extremely current. As with fine jewelry, the direct touch of a designer results in an integrity that is not possible with mass-produced pieces. ‘Onaya, across the street, follows this feeling of commitment to jewelry made by small designers. They carry their ‘own line of jewelry, all made in Paris, which bears the mark of someone playing directly with metal- chains swirled around in pattems to form fun bracelets, or strips of metal soldered together to create a whimsical pendant shape. In addition, this tiny shop offers a dizzying array of jewelry from other designers, each collection distinct in its vision and craft. Rings covered in circus-bright enamel spots are displayed next to necklaces made of sheer cloth poufs. ‘The intricate silverwork of Kelim is unusual in form and wonderful in its simple and well-executed mechanics. The ribbon swirls of Luna Cox resemble baroque architectural flourishes and make beautiful pins. Perhaps the best known shop by the canal is that of Stella Cadente, but her jewelry does not bear the inspired mark of a designer's vision. It is simply fun, wearable, and cheap, but not a terribly original offering in a neighbor- hood that abounds in imaginative jewelry. More interesting is the surprisingly good selection of very cheap jewelry at the design store Ide Co. Ignore the toys and colorful housewares and stick to the front of the store, where racks of colorful bangles beckon, next to candy-lke rings and woven-bead necklaces. The most inventive pieces are of laser-cut rubber, from Batuccada, done in lacey pattems or floral cut-outs, that have a funky, feminine appeal There are also necklaces and bracelets made from tasselike bunches of bright-colored string that form light, strik- ing pieces. Young girs in the neighborhood love them by Laura Rysman

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