Eat La
Spatial Colon
Environments by
Companies
Precursors of a Healt:
Anthony Winson
Learning Objectives
Through this chapter, you can:
1 Better unde
environments such as supermark
2
Introduction
Canadian society today, like that of most other
developed countnes, 1s facing a looming health
nisis related to the characteristics of diets and life-
styles as they have evolved over the last several
decades. The incidence of weight gain and obesity
has reached levels never before seen, as has the
incidence of diseases such as diabetes, which is
closely associated with excessive weight (Statistics
Canada 2002; Tremblay and Willms 2000). The
recent Canadian Health Measures Survey provides
data on measured (as opposed to self-reported)
body composition,’ and gives us the most accur-
ate picture in this regard to date. It indicates that
between 1981 and 2009, among 15-to 19-year-old
boys, those classified as overweight or obese rose
from 14 per cent to 31 per cent. Among girls in
the same age group, that category increased from
jzatio
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lerstand the socio-economic and political dete!
ets and schools
Become acquainted with some novel conceptual to
what drives unhealthy eating among Canadians
h Crisis!
rminants of key food
‘ols that help in understanding
14 per cent to 25 per cent. Moreover, between
2007 and 2009, about 1 per cent of adult
Canadians were underweight, 37 per cent were
overweight, and 24 per cent were obese. The sur
vey also notes dramatic declines in fitness levels
among adults aged 20 to 39. The percentage of
these adults whose waist circumference places
them at high risk for health problems more than
quadrupled in this period, from 5 per cent 10
21 per cent among men, and from 6 per cent 10
31 per cent among women.*
Serious chronic diseases such as type I! dia-
betes are strongly correlated with excess weigh!
and sedentary lifestyle, Canada, like many other
countries, has seen a disturbing increase in the
incidence of type 11 diabetes in recent years a
there is evidence that its rate of increase has bee"1p
cenously underestimated (Lipscombe and
7) The tendenicy of governments so far wt
12 Spar
se extent that they have come to te rms hing
genous issue, has largely been to focus on issues
relaced to sedentary lifestyles and to encourage
Fe ur peti mes
food environment has not been tackled by policy
makers, with very few exceptions Undoubtedly
{hus inaction is atleast partly due to the politcal
sensitivity of the issue, and the powerful vested
smerests that control our food system
While various factors shape eati
family influences, peer pressures, the physical
environment, and 50 on (see Raine 2005), pol-
juical economic determinants of diet have yet to
receive the full attention they warrant. As Power
argues, ‘it is important to explore how the food
industry shapes social norms around eating
jin Canada; how those in different positions in
social space (e-g., class, sex, ethnicity, age, etc.)
are targeted by food marketers; and how people
take up and act on those marketing messages
and thus produce and reproduce food norms
and culture’ (2005).
This chapter considers the contemporary
food environment as a problematic subject in
need of critical analysis. It examines Canadian
institutional food environments with a view to
understanding the key factors shaping the nutri-
tional content of their offerings. The focus here is
on two institutional domains—the supermarket
chain store and the high school food environ-
ment, It draws on the authors own recent
research and that of others to make the case that
the degradation of contemporary food environ-
ments in Canada plays a significant role in
exacerbating widespread weight gain and obes-
ity and their related serious health outcomes.
eater physical activity for differents
Conceptual Issues
In previously published research I argue for the
use of several concepts that aid in understand-
ing the present content and factors shaping
(20 $e
Val Colonie
a810N OF Food Envronm
contemporary {
jood
Reel environ
ments, which are
Pseudo-foods, differential
oncentration muse
diferenaton ne
en 2008) In adaiuon’ al
auerpt to carly the comea
ments and show fe tn ee
be used in explonng food emunonmena
Food environments, as termed. ty
those institutional spheres where food cane
Played forsale and/or consumed Unet
too-distant past food se analy ERE not
consumed within he hose
side. This unity of production and cme
Preval for thoutnds af ye
kets have existed a eat as etl as the
Mayan, and classical Greco: ae ances
(See Garnsey 1999, ch 2). However, the rise of
Indus capitalism undermined this unity 5
what became the developed world, as masses
of people were forced off the land and into the
industrilizingc
incr zing cities. (This pattern has been the
perience of much of the global South
a well.) The household unity of production and
consumption that was a central institution of
agrarian societies for millennia has largely been
broken. This fact alone has been fundamental 0
the development ofthe food industry. thas also
allowed processors, and more recently retailers,
to dramatically shift food consumption patterns
and shape mass diets
‘Today some noticeable differences distin-
guish the procurement of food from its con-
sumption. Foodstuflstoday are among the world’
most valuable commodities to be bought, trans-
ported, and sold, and indeed a very significant
proportion of our labour force is in some way
involved with these commodity chains. For most
people, in keeping with the long-standing evolu-
tion of capitalist economies all over the world,
Pi
food is procured from private, for-profit institu:
tions, which are now dominated by supermarket
chain-store operations that increasingly oper
ate on a global scale. It had been thought that
this situation characterized only the developed
countries, but recent research has made clear
country-
and consumption
ars, although food
ML mlj
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HH DLL LAL ieee
me paca Cones and eg ps, minerals, and UNS ese
er chains sn the 38 Te do-foods are typically snmp
the mayor annsads of supermarket has 1 beat ent an what AS been eg " ma
1 ma well, particularly 19 Asta aM pone nd sugar CHESS) foods, wh,
sn Ane legue 200 bie :
: 1 Berd Boe a er of recent legislation that resin
Lan Amenca (Reardon and
Re
inet al, 2003)
food consumption IS
Unlike procurement, f ee
cull charactenzed by the continuing eso
stfor-profit asa spheres AC oe
Se? ese and mth phere mare
pecures are not yet as intrusive in shaping the
Pink we consume Another significant
forgot sphere of fod consumpaon the
school, where food environments traditionally
were run on a not-for profit basis, although this
situation 1s rapidly: changing in many jurisdic-
ions, with notable consequences. But even
in institutional spheres where profit-making,
y the influence of
s | argue below.
constraints do not hold sw:
market pressures may be felt,
Overall, however, consumption is increasingly
taking place in for-profit insututional settings;
ume constraints on family life, both parents
working away from home, the loss of culin=
ary skills, and other influences determine that
more and more people find they must eat away
from home, or eat food prepared by others
elsewhere that 1s then brought home. As Austin
etal. (2005: 1575) note, Americans now spend
almost half of their food expenditures away
from home, and ‘among youths aged 12 to
18 years, the percentage of total energy intake
consumed from fast-food and other restaurants
hhas increased from 6.5 per cent in 1977-1978
to 19.3 per cent in 1994-1996’. This situation
implies loss of control over nutritional content,
as decisions around ingredients (e.g , quantities
of sugar and salt) and preparation techniques
(eg. deep-frying versus steaming vegetables)
are alienated to other actors in the food system
Pseudo-foods
Pseudo-oods ate those nutrient-poor edible
Products that are ypiclly high i lat, supe
and sat and often provide overabundant ot
ones. They are notably low in nuttints sc,
9 ————_
pject of f.
fl aay rem to children and youth (iCom
adverts
atic pseudo-foods include prod,
2006). While renown as junk foode faa
moore pe soft drinks, and the like), they a,
ae Je products not usually thought of ag.
aed rorexample, many ofthe juice'bere
jae a today qualify as pseudo-foods because
gr heir high sugar content and absence of the
utrients associated with products made from
pure juices. Many of the frozen dairy produc
that are proliferating in supermarkets in recen,
years can be considered pseudo-foods, because
of their high fat and sugar content and low levels
of essential nutrients. [ce cream, the dominant
frozen dairy product in supermarkets and one
that now occupies more shelf space than fluid
milk, typically has around 50 per cent of its cal.
ories coming from fat, although in some vatietes
this figure is as high ‘as 70 per cent (Nutribase
2001: 309-12).° These and other high-profile
supermarket products such as_pre-sweetened
breakfast cereals, plus the copious quantities
of soft drinks, confectionaries, and sugar- and
trans fat-laden baked goods, as well as the pro
liferation of salty snack products (which aver.
age 50 per cent calories from fat [Nutribase
2001: 460-31), constitute a substantial part of
the modern supermarket food environment and
are also ubiquitous in other food environments,
Table 12.1 provides a graphic illustration of the
futtitional differences underlying the pseudo-
foodsfood divide
are the
Differential Profits
Differential profit is @ concept that attempts
‘0 account for the fact that where foodstalls
LE very highly commoditized, some food and
beverage Products attract higher returns, or
Profits, for their sellers than others, In a cap-
talist economy, Profit, and the rate at which it