FO: Febmary, 1922, Ly the ordinary method of jacquard weaving, in which ome mail eye or heddle iy used for each warp- thread, the width of the pattern is in proportion to the nuier of hooks in the jacquard machine. Fach look controls as many cords a there are repeats oF gatierns inthe width of the warp. On a four- hundred hook machine ‘x warp. patiesa with, four Ide ends an be woven This exelsive ot sehages, for which an extra number of cords are rovided, If there are 1200 threats inthe warp, this wil give three 400-thread patterns in the whole width af the cloth: each hook will thus control thie cons, ach cond one mail, and each mail one. warp-thread Within the Tinits af these four Inundred threads, the dsiqner has free scope. He cam give each ane of the four hundred threads a different movement in. the texture, if desired, and the contour of the figure be varied by the movement of single threads If two tails each holding’ a warp-theead, ane ate tached to each jacgguand harness card operated from each hook of the jacquard, it follows thae the pattern gan then he made to include 800 threads, whielh work in airs instead of singly, as before. TE four mails are conivalied hy each, cord, the ca- rasity of the pattern in oir example will he increased fo 1600 threads, and the pattern can he made. four times as wile “as with she single tie-up. Single threads, however, cannot by either of the fast-naned arrangements he moved independently. Dy the raise af a hook, two or fost consecutive warp-threads respectively will be raised in each pattern. The con tour of the figure in this instance cannot he varied by single threads, hat the changes mast be made by de- {fees of two or four threads, a the case may he. This iva distinet featire of damask weaving: When damaste fabric is eonstructed with the same density of warp and filling threads per inch, it follows that the change by degrees of twe or four threads {which is computory inthe warp) mst De also opted fr the filling, otherwise she pattern will be Exod, having the right width ba only onesquarter of the required length. Tf the density of the filling i only one-half that of the warp. two threads of fing will occupy the same space a+ fou of the warp, To preserve the eorreet proportion in the design of such a texture, the changes inthe fling must he made by degsees of tivo threads, corresponding to the for thread degrees in the warp. Tn. an crdinary jacquard design made with one thread in each mil, each point im the desien 43, a8 it wore, single element.” These consist af single points inthe design, each corresponding either to the ‘aking or lowering of one thread in the warp. Inthe damask fabric the case is different. The ‘esign on the point paper is made by sing” single wins or squares, the same as in ordinary ‘lesigning, fat said wares oa the point paper resign in this in stance indicate not one, baa wroup of warp-thgcads. Eich point in the design eorrespousls to the raising or Iowerm of ts many consecitive warp-threads as are controlled hy single cords. Ie thus follows that the design paper must he adjusted, not to the number of vepthreads and picks, hat to the number of sraups af atptigcads abd picks. A. single thread jm this instance cannot be tied down or raised independently, since each point in the desizn corresponds to an entire frou of warpethneais drawn through each mail of thestt NTI "DAMASK WEAVING. JOURNAL till or plain weave in a damask pattern is used, not to form the figure, but to make the effect of a particular part of the higure more oF less prominent In the weaving of a damask fabric, « large ot stall part of the warp-threads adjacent to’ cach other may he raised or lowered. In the former ease certain rnomber of warp-threads must be lowered, and in the latter ease a certain number must he raised 10 form a teste with she Alling. It is not possible t0 do this with the ardisaery jac- quatd attachment, so 2 sapplementary deviee is em ployed, which consists of amiess placed hetween the Jacqgtatd and che reed, ‘These front harnesses. as they are called, raise a certain number of warputhrecds {corresponding to the weave desired) whet have heen lowered by the jacquard, and in ts lowers others whiel have heen raised hy the jacquard. It is evident that in order to preserve the fighre formed by. the jacquard, only a Sinall portion of the raised threads can be Iowered, or of the lowered threads raived, ‘These front harnesses are worked by cis iate= pendently uf the jacquard, conseatently the buildings of the shed consist of two alistinet operations: (1) the movement of the jaeqnard harness, and. (2) the movement of the front harnesses. “to. permit of these operations being earvied out, it js necessary that the formation of the shed by the jacquard be not interfered with by the front hamesses, “The whject obtained by a specially-consiruected jacquard harness Jn the constraction at this harness, om cael of The hwoks of the jacquard are connected four, or more oF Jess cords, which pass through the eomberboari, One of the warp-threatls is then deaivn thregh each math, so that each hook controls a group of fou, oF mre ot . consecutive threads. These threads are drawn. not only throngh the jacquard mails, but also singly through the heddle-eyes of the set oF the front har nesses, The eyes are long lonps, in pace of the reget lac heddle-eyes. When in thete central position, they dlo not interfere with the moventent of the thread D¥ the jacquard, Raising ot loweting: them, raises or lowers the warp-threads whieh they control, if they are ol already raised or lowered respectively lhe stitching or tying of this fgtre shed is done by the front harnesses. This double action of farm ing the shed gives Five to the grextent objection 10 damask weaving, 212, the so-called ross shed. By a © shed the warp yarn is suhject to a double de= tion, and owing to the increased strain, must be correspondingly strong, Ic is, therefore, ahsoletel necessary in damask weaving that the hest- material only be used for warp. Tn relieve the strain caved By the cow sed varus devices are ented Ta place of using 4, or more or less hulle cords, to each harness com of the Teas oniy one hedle attached, the sume containing fur, oF more oF Tess, ce holes in the mail, aecomplishing the same as the foar single eye hesiles tied to one jacyumrd. harness word, Another device for relieving the tension af the cross shed is called the half-hamess, In this. case tyvo cross hrs are placed onder the warp between the harness andthe yar beams. Hall arnesses, spe ported by strips of rods, are’ placed hetween these ars, and the threads are drawn through the eyes Dy this arrangement, the warp-ihreacs are depressed Iuclow the horizontal, When the cross sed is formed the strain on the warp i relieved hy these light weightsv Posselt'’s wv Textile Journal A Monthly Journal of the Textile Industries ‘©. A. POSSELT, Editor and Publisher 12152-2164 N. 216 Street, Philadeiphia, Pa, ‘SURSCRIPTION RATES, United States and Mesien, 42.50 Per Ye ds, £300 per yen: ‘other countries nthe Postal Union, $250 per year Sisle Coie, 20 cents. “This Toural ie puliahed othe frst ofeach month ‘Poste prepaid by the Publisher ‘Sebcrstion beta wih the number fallowing the date on which ve Sages aT Bec Se Sut subsrinions aieape sive your fll name ad hanace in pdteae always lve the old adress, vee ai apes ale be Money should not be rad 10 gents of flletrs ane they can ad eR D9 HE etl tere totais ucrptons ape payeble je manne, Money ane aent iy Bee sy ollteng i fetrea Mer” Sake ania tore “Fea Joa, Ph se ident fave Poe ath, * und clas matter May 25, 1920, at Tassie Rae the hao Mach vali gg ome deing lifted wp. The objection to this method is that the space behind the jacquard must he greater, and that the work of drawing-in is greatly increased. 1 results, however, in the yar being relieved of much of the Strain, so that finer warps can be used. Price Level Will be Higher than Pre-War. ‘There is every reason to believe that the price level will be higher than before the war. The quantity theory ‘of money and credit is now preity generally accepted. a\coordinig to this idea, prices increase 25 the volume ‘of money and credit increases timless there is a cor~ responding increase in production, During and since the war, the expansion of money and credit has been ‘uit of all proportion to the growth of production. Ohart Shows Expansion. __ The accompansing tables compare the ex fof currency and credit in the United States with the growth of production since 1900. ‘The production figures are based on 1899 instead of 1900, While in 1919 the output of mamifacture, mining and agricul- tore had increased respectively 95 per cent., 128 per cent. and 37 per cent, over 1899, curreney and credit had expanded 367 per cent, in 1920 ever 1900, Moxey axa Cavnir Gowrie ns tue U, S, 1919-1920. (Statistical Abstruce of the United States.) Tnfiidual \ Fotalof Per Cont, of Currency, Bask Deposits, “Both. Increase Year (allio "(Ml (attic, TS00=100 Dallas) Dollars) Take ‘9.258 100 13037 uo 18.85 7 13225 22708 2s a7370 $3457 ‘er ‘There has been a slackening in the se of money and POSSELT’S TEXTILE JOURNAL. Febrnary, 1922, credit whiel has the same effect as a dectine in theie Volume, ‘This has. probably heen entirely offset by inished production, ‘There las also been a slight recession of bank deposits from the high point’ of 1920, hut if the experience of the last one hundred years can he falken ts & basis of prediction, the trend will continite pward and in advance of production Raw Material Prices Favorable ‘The prices of more than half of the raw materials are now helieved favorable t manufaeturers. ‘They are lover in price than in comparison with other pro- duets and lower than ean be expected later, Grower oF Propwicnios 18 sme Usiseo States, TE, Dag. ia the. Quarterly’ Publication of statistical “Association, March, 1921) 9 "Ino Manufacture. Mining Agricultone 1289. oon io “uo Wee ay 13 "6 1502. tas 1a is font 71 22 1 1919. it 17 Whors su Wurouesace Proce, Gilt War Perinat World War Period 856-1860) = 100" 910.1914 = 100 Your, Wholesale Year. Wholesale Priees ATE Wages. Prices AIL Wages Comments Commas. 186.98 Win e105 Kel ho ots 106 1802 ret ite 104 wi? BL ists ies to) 19 to20 240 WIR bg ad *F Sepate Report Nov 1394, Filty-seeondl Compress, second session, Part Tp. 18 ant 91 “FMonthiy: Mabie ‘eviews Vol, XIN, No. 2 pm 7374, February, 192i, Wayes rise in the wake of prices and fall more slowly, The table above compares the Civil War and World War periods in this respect One reason for the siieeess nf wage earners in re sisting the decline after the Civil War was the public land which absorhed the surplus workers. That in= uence is now practically terminated; two new factors ay, however, be cmsidered: one is trade unionism and the other is a new consciousness that the standard (of living must continuously be improved in the interest ‘of national weltare, Some wages, ay some commod ies, are too hiult and some too low, and readjustment ig necessary. If the price level is to be permanently higher than before the war, can a guess be concerning the readjusted price equilibritny Test hasis for such an estimate is the Bureau of Labor Statistics Wholesale Price Index which caleulates pre- Sent prices in terms of an assumed 1913 equilibrium, Nine groups of commodities are compared. In August 1921, the weighted average of the nine groups showed prices 32 per cent. higher than in 1913. ‘This ean be taken as the August equilibrium. Tf all the groups stood at that point, the exchange relationship between them would be practically the same as in 1913, A dis-