3.2.

10 Rearranged Twills
1. Concept
Rearranging a weave means taking single thread or
groups of threads from the base weave and
rearranging them in a different order. See Fig. 3.36

Base twill

Fig. a:

Fig. b:

Fig .a : the picks are rearranged in groups of

two in sateen
Fig .b :a different rearrangement in warp
direction in groups of two

2. They are constructed as

follows:

a) Select base weave.

b) Determine a plan for rearrangement.
c) Rearrange threads: ends or picks.

3. Example:
Base twill
the new order of warp
threads is 7,8; 5,6; 3,4; 1,2.

Base twill

rearranged twill in the given order

4. Applications

Many characteristic fabrics can be made by

using rearranged twills due to its versatility.

3.2.11 Shaded twill

1. Concept
The shaded twill represents a gradual transition
from the twill with weft effect to warp effect, and
vice versa. It is used mostly in Jacquard weaving
for large-pattern fabrics. See Fig.3.37

Fabric sample:

2. Weave drawn
Formulae to calculate the repeats:
Ro = Rob (Rob-1 )
Ry = Ryb
Where: Ro---new weave repeat; Rob---the base
weave repeat.

3.3 Satin/Sateen
weaves Derivatives

1. Reinforced sateen
It is constructed by using the original sateen
as the base and adding overlaps. See Fig. 3.38

Adding a warp float at the right of the original one

Example

Fig. 3.39 shows a 11/8

reinforced sateen which is
often used for worsted fabric
called satin back gabardine.
The face of the fabric has a
twill appearance and back
has a satin appearance.

2. Shaded sateen

Like the shaded twill, the shaded satin represents

a gradual transition from the sateen with weft
effect to the satin with warp effect, and vice
versa. See Fig.3.40

Ry=Ryb=5
RO=Rob(Rob-1)=54=20

3. Rearranged sateen/satin
weaves

It can be constructed by rearranging the

sequence of the picks or varying the shift.
See Fig. 3.41, 3.42.
Obtained from varying
the shift
Shifts (Sy)=4,3,2,2,3

Obtained from
rearranging the
sequence of the picks

Home work:
1. Base weave
, the order of warp
threads is 1,2, 7,8, 13,14, 5,6, 11,12, 3,4,
9,10, draw the rearranged twills.
2. draw a shaded twill from 1/3 to 3/1.

Chapter Three Summary:

Derivatives of Elementary Weaves

3.1 Plain weave derivatives.
1. Rib weaves
Warp rib weaves; Weft rib weaves
2. Hopsack weaves

3.2 Twill weave derivatives

1. Reinforced twill
2. Compound twills
3. Elongated twills
4. Curved twills
5. Angled twills
6. Herringbone and broken twills
7. Diamond and Diaper
8. Zigzag Weaves
9. Entwined Twills
10. Rearranged Twills
11. Shaded twill

3.3 Satin/Sateen weaves Derivatives

1. Reinforced sateen
2. Shaded sateen
3. Rearranged sateen/satin