This document is intended to give you some ideas, but not specific dimensions. Grizzly didn't do a super accurate job of placing holes on the mill head. If you make it longer on the back end, it will sit on your z-axis saddle.
This document is intended to give you some ideas, but not specific dimensions. Grizzly didn't do a super accurate job of placing holes on the mill head. If you make it longer on the back end, it will sit on your z-axis saddle.
This document is intended to give you some ideas, but not specific dimensions. Grizzly didn't do a super accurate job of placing holes on the mill head. If you make it longer on the back end, it will sit on your z-axis saddle.
but not specific dimensions for two reasons: 1. Grizzly didn't do a super accurate job of placing holes on the mill head. 2. I've lost my notes, and this project was stretched out over so much time I can't remember why I did some of this stuff.
This 4.75" lengh should work for
you.
These holes are for bolting the standoff to the mill
head. The location is mill specific, because Grizzly did not place them very precisely.
If you make it longer on the back
end, it will sit on your Z-axis saddle which means you will no longer be able to tram or tilt your mill head.
Counterboring for the cap screw head is not
required, but I like the way it looks with the bolt heads being below the surface.
youtube.com/russtuff
It also means the top plate is
going to hang off the back of the 4.75 standoffs .5" or so.
These two holes are for mounting the top plate
to the standoffs. I would plan on drilling them last, after you have decided where you want the slots in the top plate. I drilled/tapped these holes for 10-32 cap screws, but you could go with any size really. I would probably choose 41"-20.
0.43 This 2.5" height worked for my motor, but depending on your motor shaft length you may need to go taller or shorter.
1.00
2.50
0.75
You can use material thicker
than .75" if you like, but I wouldn't go much thinner.