Iden Gebibee nk SroalA scwter Cots) Ae
im Te Shetkuce Restor ' Collide ,
— Lew ? i
chapter
Introduction to part three
Ken Gelder
eeiole AT THE BIRMINGHAM CENTRE for Contem-
porary Cultural Studies were more or less in agreement about
what a subculture was, and what it does ~ emphasizing style, the
ability to transform cultural objects or to borrow from other places
and other times, the engagement in ritualistic or symbolic modes
of ‘resistance’, and the ambivalent structural relations a subculture
bears to the working-class ‘parent culture’ and the less class-bound
realm of mass culture. Class has not been the oniy social referent
for the COCSs work, of course: Angela McRobbie and Jenny Garber
ave explored issues af gender and subcultural identification, and
Hetdige has related subcultural formations to ethnicity and migra:
tion, Subsequent commentators have introduced different kinds of
configurations into the subcultural mix, however, in some cases
ing extensive critiques of the CCCS’s methodologies ar
by authors in this Part
mptions. The main criticisms ma
jolve the CCCS's over-privileging of spectacular styles, its one-
al view of ‘resistance’ and ‘int
of Willis) its eefusal to engac
orporation
more concrete!
houltures as distinctive arrangements of everyila
tL they acta’
5 if they were hamauineas, as if146
their ‘provleins’ were shared equally atonyst the participant
There interest, in other words, the internat stratines
ticas of a subculture. Moreover, the emphasis on resistance’ te
to a dows playing of subcultural participation in commerce, in the
processes of purchase and exchange - important in the actua
formation of subcultural styles.
The chapters by Stanley Cohen and Gary Clarke each engage
directly with the CCCS’s work. Cohen’s classic book Folk Devil
and Moral Panics (1972; 1980) had examined the various ways
in which disruptive subcultures are created by mass media and
received in society ~ hysterically, as a form of entertainment, nostal
gically, and so on. His introduction to the new edition is an appeal
for the return to sociology in subcultural analysis, a discipline whict
is less caught up with the obfuscations of contemporary Continental
theory and which stresses the importance of rigorous methods of
research. Cohen turns to the ordinariness of subcultural life,
rejecting the Birmingham Centre’s tendency to privilege spectacu
larity and resistance. Indeed, for Cohen, subcultures have more to
do with how one gets by in the present moment, with apathy,
passivity, conformity and the more mundane ‘daily round of
life’, rather than with their relations to the broader structures of
class, capitalism, and so on, Cohen’s view of subcultural forma
tions not as a single, over-determined response to particular
conditions but as one kind of response amongst others certain
moves towards @ much-needed demystification of the subcultural
‘image’. Importantly, Cohen also calls for a method of analysis
which involves actually talking to subcultural participants ~ h
values Paul Willis in this context, as an ethnographer rather than
4
a semiotician
Gary Clarke’s contribution, taken from a lo
published as a working paper at Birmingham, is a critique of
Hebdige’s division of spectacular subcultuyes—those with ‘style’
from an undifferentiated ‘general publi yle is dissociated fr:
mass culture; or, if they are brought togétNer-Tt is at the expense
of a certain level of contempt for the latter (more pronounced in
Hebdige than in John Clarke ef af.), In fact, mass cultural styles
's of transformation, recontextual
nger article
may also engage with p
ization and so on, processes which Hebdige had only attributed toINTRODUCTION TO PART THREE
subcultures, Hebdige tended to treat subcultures as authentic,
original and vulnerable to incorporation into mass cultural
production but Clarke argues that a more developed sense of the
interaction between subcultures and mass cultural forms would
easily problematize this kind of trajectory.
The chapters by Jon Stratton and Simon Frith emphasize not
Swsistance’ but conventionafity in subcultural identification.
Stratton investigates the transferability of subcultures from one
place to another. For the CCCS analysts, subcultures more or less
remained in place and were often short-lived. But some subcultures
Stratton’s examples are surfies and bikers ~ are more long-
lasting, self-contained and self-generating, not least because they
are less constrained by location and class. But they cannot be
conceived of in terms of ‘resistance’ since they live out consumerist
ambitions (the American Dream’ or ‘a myth of leisure’, for
example), albeit in an ‘alternative way’. It is not that these subcul-
tures will eventually be ‘incorporated’ either, since they are already
in a relationship with the commodificatory processes of dominant
culture, which, indeed, brought them into being in the first place.
Simon Frith looks at two prevailing views of music culture: the
vealist’ view, which values ‘authenticity’ and small-scale levels of
production, locating this as ‘anti-establishment’, as innovatory, and
So on; and the ‘formalist’ view, which stresses the influence of
conventions, seeing music (small-scale or otherwise) as a form
in the frame of an inherited, determining set of
which unfolds wit
constraints. Punk tends to be characterized in the former way,
while disco is often considered from the iatter perspective. For
her
's alignment to e
Frith music can itself ‘articulate’ an audienc
of these positions — but that alignment will in turn determine music’s
leological effects. All this is enacted in the fie
d of leisure, which
folds under the constraints of conventions, such as ‘enter:
ent’, This may signi ly curtail a subculture’s capacity to
The chapters by McRobbie and Thornton investigate t
mies of subcultures ~ again, to produce accounts that mov
the concept of ‘resistance’, McRobbie looks at subcultural
k 6 ying and selling’ in the marketKEN GELDER
relation to the Birmingham tradition is not surprisingly ambiva-
lent (she was a graduate student at the CCCS): she returns
subcultural analysis to the field of sociology and everyday life, but
she also touches the kind of romantic narrative found in Hebdige
involving the capacity of subcultures to precipitate change in
‘contemporary consumer culture from below’. In particular, her
juxtaposition of the ‘enterprise culture’ of subcultures with the
fashion ‘designer’ recalls Hebdige’s use of the Levi-Straussian
distinction between the ‘bricoleur’ and the ‘engineer’.
Thornton departs more radically from CCCS_ paradigms,
replacing their politicization of youth with an account of the micro-
politics of the cluster of overlapping subcultures that British youth
call ‘club cultures’. She develops the notion of ‘subcultural capital’,
drawing on Pierre Bourdieu (for ‘distinction’) and turning back to
[ the Chicago School (for 'status’) to investigate social conflicts and
cultural competition within subcultures. These may be built around
hierarchies of taste Br-Kriowledse, or access to certain locations
“and events. Sabcuitural capital“is accumulat ve: Sc
sccumulative: some people have
the less consciously constructed news photo,
symbols are, obviously and conspicuously, fabri
In other words, subcultur
cated and displayed. This is precisely how and why they are subversive and
gainst the grain of mainstream culture which is unretlexive and ‘natural’
But in the same breath, Hebdige repeats the semiotic article of faith that
signification need not be intentional, that Eco’s ‘semiotic guerrilla warfare
jcted at a level beneath the consciousness of the individual
can be ca
members of a spectacular subculture ~ though, to confuse things further ‘the
tubculture is still at another level an intentional communication’ [Hebdige
1979; 101, 105)
This leaves me puzzled about the question of intent. 1 doubt whether
hese theories take seriously enough their own question about how the subcul
ure makes sense to its members, If indeed not all punks ‘were equally aware
the disjunction between experience and signification upan which the whole
SYMBOLS OF TROUBLESTANLEY COHEN
self-conscious innovators from the art schools ‘at a level which remained
tre had su
inaccessible to those who became punks after the sube
and been publicized’ [Hebdige 1979: 122] ~ and surely all this must be the
cease — then why proceed as if such questions were only incidental? It is
hard to say which is the more sociologically incredible: a theory which postu:
lates cultural dummies who give homologous meanings to all artefacts
surrounding them or a theory which suggests that individual meanings do not
matter at all
Even if this problem of differential meaning and intent were set aside
we are left with the perennial sociological question of how to know whether
one set of symbolic interpretation is better than another ~ or indeed if it is
appropriate to invoke the notion of symbols ar all. Here, my feeling is that
the symbolic baggage the kids are being asked to carry is just too heavy, that
the interrogations are just a little forced. This is especially so when appear-
ances are, to say the least, ambiguous or (alternatively) when they are
simple, but taken to point to just their opposite. The exercise of decoding
can then only become as arcane, esoteric and mysterious as such terms as
Hebdige’s imply: ‘insidious significance’, ‘the invisible seam’, ‘secret
language’, ‘double meaning’, ‘second order system’, “opaque sign’, ‘secret
identity’, ‘double life’, ‘mimes of imagined conditions’, ‘oblique expression’,
“mnagical elisions’, ‘sleight of hand’, ‘present absence’, “frozen dialectic’, “frac
tured circuitry’, ‘elliptic coherence’, ‘coded exchanges’, ‘submerged
possibilities’, etc
This is, to be sure, an i
be we sure that it is also not imaginary? When the code is embedded in a
sm already rich in conscious symbolism, then there are fewer
problems, For example, when Hebdige is writing about black rasta culture,
the connections flow smoothly, the homology between symbols and life could
hardly be closer. The conditions in the original Jamaican society, Rastafarian
beliefs, the translation of reggae music to Britain... all these elements
cohere. A transposed religion, language and style create a simultaneously
‘marginal and magical system which provides a subtle and indirect langua
of rebellion. Symbols are necesory: ifa more direct language had been chosen
it would have been more easily dealt with by the group against which it was
directed. Not only does the system display a high degree of internal consis:
aginative way of reading the style; but how can
references to the historical experience of slavery
tency ~ particularly in its
bat it refers directly to patterns of thought which are actually hermetic
arcane, syncretic and associative.
If such patterns have to be forced out of the subject-matter, though, the
end result is often equally forced. When any apparent inconsistencies loom
up, the notion of ‘bricolage’ comes to the rescue: the magic ensemble is
only implicitly coherent, the connections can be infinitely extended and impro-
vised, And even this sort of rescue is too ‘traditional’ and ‘simple? we are
now told: instead of a reading being a revelation of a fixed number of
concealed meanings, it's really a matter of ‘polysemy': each text is seen t0s
generate a potentially infinite range of meanings. Style fits together precisely
because it does not fit; it coheres ‘elliptically through a chain of conspicuous
absences’ [Hebdige 1979: 117-20}
This is an aesthetics which may work for art, but not equally well for
life, The danger is of getting lost in ‘the forest of symbols’ and we should
take heed of the warnings given by those, like anthropologists, who have
searched more carefully in these same forests than most students of youth
culture. Thus in trying to interpret what he calls these ‘enigmatic forma:
competence [Turner 1967]. Some method or rules of guidance are needed
te would do no harm, for example, to follow his distinction between the
three levels of data involved in trying to infer the structure and property of
symbols and ritualyfirst, the actual observable external form, the ‘thing’
& od cither by ritual specialists like