INDUSTRIAL TRAINING

Course Code: Tex -4036

INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd

Industrial Attachment Course is an academic function of the Southeast University. Like all
other years our teacher Syed Fakrul Hassan, Chairmen of Department of Textile-Engineering,
Gave us an opportunity to choose preferable mills for Industrial Attachment Course. We, the
Four student of 5th batch choose the Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. joyfully with the
supervising teacher Dr.Md. Abul Kalam Azad.
During the attachment with The Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd we worked in all the
departments related with the Garments Manufacturing Technology & Knitting. We not only
gave priority to garments manufacturing but also worked sincerely in the knitting, dyeing,
and Maintenance and Marketing section. We learned about quality control section, finished
fabric Inspection section, warehouse, store &Inventory &Finishing.
We owe a particular debt of gratitude to Md.Emrul Khan, Manager(HRD),Md.Mofazzal
Hosan,GM (Production & Head Of The Factory) MD.Masud Rana,Manager,(Marketing
&merchandising Dpt.),Md.Shariful Hasan Talujder,DGM(Production & Head Of The
Factory),Md Maruf Mia(PM) Md.Abdus Salam, AGM,(Knitting &Fabrication) in Novel
Hurricane Knit garments Ltd.
They gave always some of his valuable time regularly in helping us to achieve our intended
goal. We also express our gratitude to all the executives of Bangle knitting, dyeing, cutting,
sewing, finishing, store & inventory control.
Of course we wish to pay our special thanks to the persons guided us cared us during this
days- MD.Masud Rana, Manager,(Marketing &merchandising Dept. of Novel Hurricane
Knit garments Ltd.
However, we have prepared our Industrial Project overcoming all the difficulties & also the
shortage of time. Here we would like to present the report.
Md.Yeasin Mia
Md.Afjal Mia

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Chapter-I
Project Description

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Company Profile
Name of the Company: NOVEL HURRICANE KNIT GARMENTS LIMITED
Company Type: 100% export oriented knit composite mill.
We have two high capacity garments manufacturing plants where we can produce 18.70
million pieces of knit apparels per annum with the help of sophisticated machinery and well
trained manufacturing team. Serving the needs to the global apparel market since 1999 as a
leading manufacturer of quality and value added knit garments.

Year of
Establishment
Business lines

Employee Number

Products

1999
Manufacturing and marketing of wide range of knit
apparels.
Management -117
Production -580
T-shirt, Polo shirt, Sweatshirt, Fleece shirt, Ladies
Tops, etc.

Production Capacity 7.50 million pieces per annum

Export Market

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Europe , USA, Japan, German

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Location and Address:

Corporate Office122/A, Tejgaon Industrial Area
Dhaka-1208, Bangladesh
Phone: 8815356, 8819373, 8855381
Fax: 880-2-8819372
Web site: www.nhk-ast.com
Operational OfficeBokran, Monipur, Mirzapur
Gazipur-1703, Bangladesh
Phone: 0682555074, 0682555104
Fax: 88-0682555103
E-mail:nhk@nhk-ast.com
Company Space:

500acre

Products: All Types of Knit Fabric and Garments

Production Capacity Per Month:

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Basic T-shirt

600,000 pcs

Polo shirt

300,000 pcs

Special Knit Item

400,000 kg

Fleece Item

200,000 kg

Rib/Interlock Item

400,000 kg

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Total worker (with knitting):

1100

General Manager:

68

Maintenance:

17

Different Departments1. Merchandising

2. HRD
3. Administration
4. Production
-Sample section
-Cutting section -Sewing section
-Finishing section
-Work Study
-Quality section
5. Complains
6. Accounce
7. Store & inventory Control
8. Knitting section

History of the development:

a. Garments are the biggest export oriented industry and earns
65% foreign currency.
b. Engaged about 30 lac people directly with this industry
activities directly on the other hand one core people of the total
country are engaged with his activities .Being it is the main
source of earning foreign currency and labor oriented industry
for which this project development and increasing day by day.

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Physical infrastructure:

FIG: NOVEL HURRICANE KNIT GARMENTS LIMITED

It is situated Gazipur basis area on about three acores of land of five

stored-modern building including that different and various social
humidity and department like
1. Welfare area .
2. Safety area .
3. Sufficient like fans and natural air flow the
working. Atmospheric is nice hygienic and
healthing.

Remarks:
It is one of the modern and model garments factory including ISO certified and
WRAP certified factory

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Chapter-II
Man power Management

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Organo gram:

Chairperson:
Responsible for all management decision and actions take place in the company.
Approving company budgets.
Taking final decision on company profits/ loss and profit sharing between the
shareholders.
Directly responsible to produce company budgets.
Responsible to work on fund management and cost control in all the process of the
operation.
Managing Director:
Reporting to Chairperson.
Responsible to board of directors
Having total charge of the operation.
Directly responsible to overlook marketing department and fulfil marketing
requirement.
Monitor factory operation and make sure orders and delivery on time with
customers required quality at minimum cost.
Take the total change of all human resource activities and make sure GNF Ltd to
have professional and cheerful work force.

Director Operations:
Reporting to Managing Director.

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 Direct co-ordination with production Manager/ Sample Room In-Charge/ Quality

manager/ Lab In-Charge.
Product analyzing and providing technical guidance for optimum benefit of the
company.
Monitor productivity and take necessary actions and give advises.
Take charge of all pre production activities.
Take change of all new development.
Identify tanning needs.
Maintain safety system and procedures.
Introduce cost effective management methods.
Merchandising Manager:
Report directly to Managing Director.
Co-ordinate with Marketing officer, Director Operations and Sample Room InCharge.
Upgrade Managing Director on the progress.
Make contribution to production planning and make sure that the production plan
is up to date.
Monitoring maintained and processed order information, this is transferred
between head office and the factory.
Execute raw material booking and follow-ups.
Follow up and get it done samples from sample room with the help of the
coordinator.
Understand the general/ technical problems in the factory, customer requirements
and get buyers approvals where even possible.
Marketing Manager:
Report directly to Managing Director.
Co-ordinator with Merchandising Manager.
Responsible for business development/ develop new supplier sources and cost
control.
Frequent market research and up date.
Generate innovation to the organization.
Follow up current customer and ongoing orders.
Co-operate with customers and make.
Understand the general/ technical problems in the factory, convince customers
and get customers approvals approvals where ever is possible on company
interest.
Find business for surplus good.
Prepare and maintain management reports.
Administration Manager:

Directly reporting to General Manager

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Co-ordinate with the entire department in changes and all the workers in the
Factory.
Responsible to monitor:
Factory timing.
Discipline and cleanliness.
Attendance, leave and holidays.
Security and maintenance of the factory.
Transportation and its maintenance.
Wagers, overtime pay, allowances and other payment.
Do necessary formalities during new recruitment or terminations.
Keep head office updated on regular intervals.

Management System:
Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. has maintained in the International Standard
Management System. It is follow up ISO9001:2008 management system & WRAP standard.

Shift System:
Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. has flows one shift and shift hour 8:00 AM to 5:00PM
(Within one hour taking rest ). For emergency shiftment it is work overtime 5:00 PM to
10:00PM.
Responsibility of production Officer:
The production Officer is very sincere, proactive and very carefully every work. They doing
work factory full time. The production officer solves the problem and how to know
production planning and improvement of the production. The production manager maintain
production department and increase productivity.

Remarks:
The management of Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. is very strong and they maintain
every work carefully. The management supervising all of the factory and production Officer
doing works carefully.

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Chapter-III
Machine Description

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No. of Machine:
The Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. has used different type machine. This machine is
high technology & ultra modern machine. Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. has six
hundred above machinery. The machine is use different section. The section wise machine is
followingCutting Section:

Fabric inspection m/c

Straight knife m/c
Brand knife m/c
Fusing m/c
Hand Operated Scissors

Sewing Section:

Plain Machine(S/N)
Double Needle Machine(D/N)
Over lock Machine(O/L)
Flat lock Machine (F/L)
Kanshai Machine
Blend Stitching m/c

Bar-tack Section:

Button Hole Machine

Button join Machine
Bar-tack Machine(B/T)
Snap button attaching m/c

Finishing Section:

Suction Machine.
Repeat attaching m/c
Iron
Metal detector m/c
Spot cleaning m/c

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Make, Brand name ,Origin Model:

They given below m/c name, origin ,make, brand name and model following table:
Machine Name

Brand

Origin

Model

Quantity

CLOTH
CUTTER

K.M

JAPAN

KS-AUV-258857

BAND KNIFE

K.M

JAPAN

S.BK-700

FABRIC
INSPECTION
M/C

UZU

THAILAND

UZ-900-31/72

SINGLE
NEEDLE

BROTHER

JAPAN

SL-7340-5

306

DOUBLE
NEEDLE

BROTHER

JAPAN

T-8420A-005

22

5 THRED
OVERLOCK

BROTHER

JAPAN

FB-N310-5030-553WF

32

HAMMING

JUKI

U.S.A

US-63900AM1/2

ZIGZAK

YAMATA

CHINA

FY-20043

FEED OF THE
ARM

BROTHER

JAPAN

DA-9280-D

10

BUTTON
STITCH

BROTHER

JAPAN

BE-438D

11 BUTTON HOLE

BROTHER

JAPAN

HE-800A-2

12

EYELEY HOLE

BROTHER

JAPAN

RH-981A-02

13

BARTACK

BROTHER

JAPAN

KE-430D-02

12

14

SNAP ATTCH

PRYM

GERMANY

PP5-600ZP

15

IRONING
VACUUM TAB

NAWMOTO

JAPAN

FB-700-SID

12

16

THRED
SUCKER

MODERN

BANGLA

TS05-12

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17

SPOT
CLEANING

UZU

THAILAND

UZ-84

18

FUSING PESS

HASHIMA

CHINA

HP-900CFS

19

NEEDLE
DETECTOR

LOCK

EANGLAND

PART#23065
SL#23065

20

BELT LOOP
CUTTER

NAOMATO

CHINA

SWA1090-42P

21

THRED
TRIMMER

UNISUN

TAIWAN

US-100V

22

VELCO
ATTACH

JAPAN

KE-436C

23

THRED
WINDER

OSHIMA

TAIWAN

OW-04/OW200296-CE

24

STRAPPING
MAC

OSHIMA

TAIWAN

OSHIMA-G-500

25

BOILER
ELETIC

DRAGON

LOCAL

26

KANSAI
SOECIAL

KANSAI

JAPAN

DFB-1404-WB

27

KANSAI
SOECIAL
ELASTIC

KANSAI

JAPAN

DFB-1404-WB

28

BELT LOOP

KANSAI

JAPAN

B2000C

29

COMPRESSOR

JUCAI

CHINA

FT-100300

30

GENERATOR
380 KVA

WILSON
DIESEL

EANGLAND

P380F1

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Main specification:
Single needle sewing /plain machine:

Thread stand
Thread clamp
Thread retainer
Thread up lever guide
Thread guide
Tension disk
Pressure screw
Pressure bar
Pressure feet
Hand lifter
Needle clamp
Needle
Feed dog
SPI adjust
Reverse lever
bobbin winder pulley
Needle plate
Oil sight winder
Pulley
Belt cover
Leg lifter
Safety guide
Motor

Figure-Typical view of Plain M/c

Sewing Machine types

According to the operating system, there are two types of sewing m/c are available given
below1. Manually Operated sewing machine
2. Electrically Operated sewing machine
1. Manually Operated sewing machine: The m/c in which sewing is done by physical
power called Manually Operated sewing machines. These types of sewing m/c are widely
used in tailoring and domestic purpose for sewing fabrics. Because of less production, these
types of sewing m/c are not used in garments industry.

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2. Electrically Operated sewing machine: The m/c, in which sewing is done by

electrical power called Electrically Operated sewing machine. Comparatively these types of
m/c contain high production and widely used in garments industries for making garments.
The machines which are used in garments industries are called Industrial sewing m/cs. There
are various types of industrial sewing machines are available named by1. Double chain stitch m/c (4-thread short)
2. Double chain stitch m/c (4-needle elastic inserting m/c)
3. Double chain stitch m/c (double needle with reverse feed)
4. Feed of the arm(double chain stitch m/c.3 needle)
5. Interlock m/c (2- needle 5-thread O/L M/c)
6. Lock stitch m/c (single needle with variable to feed with automatic thread trimmer)
7. Lock stitch m/c(single needle with automatic thread trimmer)
8. Lock stitch m/c (single needle sewing m/c)
9. Lock stitch m/c (2-needle with split needle bar sewing)
10. Lock stitch m/c (twin needle feed)
11. Lock stitch ink (1-needle with vertical trimmer wiper & reverse feed)
12. Lap seaming m/c (for back tape attaching)
13. Linking m/c
14. Over lock m/c (twin needle, 4-thread m/c)
15. Over lock m/c (1-needle, 3-thread)
16. Zigzag sewing m/c (1-needle)
17. Top & bottom cover stitch flat bed m/c, 3-needle
18. 3-needle covering m/c, 5-thread flat bed top & bottom covering m/c
19. Button hole m/c (for woven fabric)
20. Button sewing m/c
21. Bartak ink (with automatic thread trimmer)
22. Button hole sewing m/c (for knitted fabric)
23. Button covering stitch belt loop making m/c (kansai m/c)
24. Bias tape cutting m/c
25. Label sewing machine.
Only main specification of different Sewing machine (m/c) are given below-

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Lock Stitching M/c:

Group
: Lock Stitch
S.P.M
: 1500-5500
Needle name : DB*1
Needle size
: 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21.
T.P.I
: 2.5 inches
Function
: Woven fabric stitching

Figure :- Lock Stitching m/c

Bar Tack M/c:

Group
: Lock stitch
S.P.M
: 3000-3200
Needle name : DP *5
Needle size
: 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21.
Per bar tack
: 8 inches
Function
: Bar tacking.

Figure: Bar Tack m/c

Kansai M/c:

Group
: Chain stitch
S.P.M
: 3000-3600
Needle name : UO * 113
Needle size
: 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21.
Per bar tack
: 16 inches
Function
: Jacket, cuff, fu-long pant, waist belt joining

Feed of the Arm m/c:

Group

: Chain stitch

S.P.M

: 6000

Needle name : UY * 113

Needle size

: 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21.

Per bar tack

: 8 inches

Function

: Inseam stitching of woven & jeans fabric.

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Figure: Feed of the Arm m/c

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Single Needle Chain stitching m/c [1 needle 1 lopper 2 thread]:

Group

: Chain stitch

S.P.M

:1800 - 6500

Needle name : UV * 5 / TV * 7
Needle size

: 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21.

T.P.I

: 4 inches.

Function

: False stitching.

Figure: Single Needle Chain stitching m/c

Double Needle Chain stitching m/c [2 needle 2 lopper 4 threads]:

Group

: Chain stitch

S.P.M

: 1800 - 6500

Needle name : UV * 5 / TV * 7
Needle size

: 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21.

T.P.I

: 4 inches.

Function

: Side seam stitching.

Figure: Single Needle Chain stitching m/c

Button Hole M/C:

Group Lock stitch / Chain stitch
S.P.M

: 3600

Needle name : DP * 5
Needle size

: 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21.

Per hole

: 8 inches.

Function

: Button hole making

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Figure: Button Hole M/C

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Button Attaching m/c:

Group

: Lock stitch / Chain stitch

S.P.M

:1500

Needle name : TQ * 1
Needle size

: 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21.

Function

: Button attaching
Figure: Button attaching m/c

Blend Stitching m/c:

Group

: Chain stitch

S.P.M

: 2500

Needle name : LW * 6T
Needle size

: 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21.

Per hole

: 8 inches

Function

: Blend stitching making

Zigzag Stitching M/C:

Group

: Lock stitch

S.P.M

: 1500 - 5500

Needle name : Db * Needle size 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21.

Per hole

: 5 inches.

Function

: Decorative seam making.

Over lock m/c:

No of needle: One or multiple needle is used

No of threads: 2-5threads are used
Maximum stitch length is 4mm, but it can easily be adjusted by using push button
system.
SPM: 6500-8500
Edge trimmer knife is available in front of the needle.

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The m/c is used for both woven & knitted fabrics

Group

Chain stitch

Brand Name

Juki

Needle Type

DC*1,DC*11,DC*14

Origin

Japan

Model

:MO-3914,TO-42

Figure: Over lock m/c

Cloth Cutting Machine:

Machine Nam : K.M. Company Cloth Cutting Machine
Model

: KM KS-AUV

Producer

: Made by K.M. Cutting, Japan

Type

: Heavy Duty Industrial Cloth Cutting Machine Self Sharpening

Dimension

: 8W *11L *24H (Weight=33.5 lb)

Current

: A.C (3.3/2.6 amps)

Speed

: 3000/3600

Remarks: It is the most important factor for garments factory. To know m/c name .origin ,
model and what type of m/c work done properly and to know every parts of machine.

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Chapter-IV
Raw Materials

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Types of raw materials:

Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd is used different types of raw materials. Such as fabric ,
sewing thread, trimmings, accessories, spare parts etc.
Source of Raw Materials:
The raw materials are come from the Comilla EXPORT PROCESSING ZONE (CEPZ).
Main suppliers for our fabrics, zipper & others are given bellowFabric supplier:

Main Land
CHINA
K.G. Denim - INDIA
Kashem Textile
- PAKISTAN
H.S. Textile
BANGLADESH
Polash Textile - BANGLADESH
Hossain Fabric Ltd - BANGLADESH

Zipper supplier: L.S.I & Y.K.K.

Thread:
SANZI TEXT
ANLIMA YARN
TOTAL THREAD
ACTIVE THREAD
Label:
COLOR KING
GOLDEN LINE
ETACOL

Button: L.S.I. & Rupali Lace

Poly: IMPERIAL
Carton: BECO & COMILLA PACKAGING
Hang Tag/ Paper tag: COLOR KING
Price:
The price is fixed by the management.
Annual requirement:
The requirement of raw materials depends on the production capacity. Increase productivity
more raw materials are required. Annual requirement 20,000,00 yards of fabric.
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Remarks:
It is the most important part of the garments factory. To know type of raw materials , fabric
speciation and function.

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Chapter-V
Production Planning Sequence and Operation

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Production planning
It is a suitable and clear study and pre-arranging the techniques involves to a long series of
operation for achieving best possible out comes at desired or scheduled time by using man,
Material and m/c present in industry.
Tools of production planning:
1. Motivation of worker
2. Education of training
3. Work study
4. Line balancing
5. Scheduling
6. Planning
7. Incentive
8. Inventory management
9. Quality management
10. Maintenance management

Production parameter:
There are hundreds of items used to manufacture the garments, proper selection of trims and
its quality are very important for styling, otherwise the garment may be rejected or returned
by the customers.

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Following is a part of list that covers some names of the trims:

Zipper/Fastener

Sewing Thread

Main Label

Flag Label

Button

Elastic

Eyelet hole

Tag s

Tag pin

Plastic clip

Sticker

Hanger

Poly bag

Scotch tape

Gum tape

Photo Board

Back Board

Tissue

Carton. Etc.

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Planning officer must know the following things:

Order number
Style name
Order quantity
Shipment date
Lead time
Style breakdown
Allocation the specific line of the style & the capacity of the style or not
Production per day according to the shipment order
Print status
For specific style how much printing unit can produce per day

For achieve the plan target planning officer must ensure the following things:

Input(Cutting parts)
Accessories
Machineries
Manpower
Floor space to set up the machine
Required working hour.

Planning Department Procedure:

Have to good knowledge about planning.

Skilled workers are need.
To know about planning process.
Store of raw material availability.
To know market demand.
Order in hand availability.
Export availability of goods.
To set up man power .
To set up machinery.

Problem of planning:
Have to change the planning:

New order allocation

Printing supply delay
Shipment adjustment
Fabric supply delay
Trims & Accessories delay
Dyeing delay
Extra shipment

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 Order cancelled

Reasons for production overtime:

The planning section decided that whether the overtime is needed or not for specific order
according to shipment date. Sometimes there have some reasons for overtime. The reasons
are follows below:

Fabric shedding from dyeing

Print & Embroidery Delay supply
Emergency shipment
Quantity Trim & adjustment
Fabric delay supply
Trims & accessories insufficient/delay
Order quantity rebalance &pending work
Machine storage & problems
Interruption power supply by maintenance

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Sample Section

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Sample garments :The garments which is need for bulk production is called sample garment
or sample garments is a small production the bulk amount of sample.
Sequence of Sample Garments Making :
Design/Sketch
Basic block/Block Pattern
Working Pattern
Sample making
Fault detection
Cost determination
Solve the problem (as required)
Approved sample
Production sample

Design/Sketch: For the production of knit of woven garments a sketch of a particular

garment including its design features is essential to produce on paper so that after
manufacturing of that garments could be verified or checked whether it looks like the sketch
of not. Design/Sketch of the garments could be done manually or with the help computer.
Basic block :The pattern which are made according to actual size , shape of standard body
measurement without any design , style , allowances etc .
Working Pattern :When a pattern is made for a particular style with net dimension then it is
known as working pattern use for sample making.
Sample Making: The pattern is used to cut the fabric. Then the garment component in fabric
form is used to Sew/assemble the garment. Sample garment making is to be done by a very
efficient and technically sound person.
Approved sample :The sample ( according to buyer specification sheet )which is approved
by buyers is known as approved sample
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Cutting Section

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Introduction:
Cutting section is the most important and risky section in garments industry. For a little
mistake full order may be cancelled. With the false management a big portion of garments
may employed. With very care this section is handled.
In Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. there consists 05 cutting table. From the section of
marker comes out for denim fabric there is marker use because if use the marker for denim
fabric, frequently match of one side to the other. This is a buyer requirement to match the
fabric. Normally big marker length is 5.5 yards and thickness of lay is 4 inch.
Straight Knife Cutting Machine:
In Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. all the fabric is cut down with the straight knife
cutting machine by the help of skilled operator. Here use a blade which is very sharp and
changed this on the basis of fabric quantity and composition, normally in every after 4 days.
Here, in the below give a short description on this time.
Advantages:

As it comparatively cheaper, easy movement and maximum lay height could

be cut, used extensively in garments industry.
Could cut fabric at move curved line then round knife.
Cutting could be done for up to 10 inch depth of the lay.
Quick fabric cutting.
Components could be cut out directly from the fabric lay.
Grinding could be done during cutting.
Could be cut at any angle.

Disadvantages:
Knife deflection may result due to heavy weight of the motor.
Higher the depth of the lay, higher will be the deflection.
Possibility of accident is higher.
Requirement for Fabric Cutting:
The following points must be fulfilled in fabric cutting:
1. Precision of fabric cutting:
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Fabric cutting should be done accurately as per exact dimension of the pattern pieces
in the marker. Accurate cutting depends on method of cutting and marker planning.
If manual cutting method is sued, then cutting and die cutting have their self cutting
accuracy.

2. Consistent Cutting:
Whatever be the cutting method used for fabric lay cutting, it should be ensure that
the shape of the cut components from top to bottom lay are of exact size and shape,
otherwise the garments produced will be defective.
3. Infused edge:
During fabric cutting, the friction between the fabric and the blade produces
temperature in the blade; the temperature may be up to 300C. If the fabric contains
synthetic fabric e.g. nylon, polyester, acrylic or other blends, then fused edge may
result in the fibres melt at round 250C. Therefore, sticking of cut edge of fabric will
increase the fabric wastage. Moreover, the fused edge after cooling will form hard
bid, which will be a problem of irritation during use of garments. To avoid the
problem of fused edge formation, the following steps may be taken:

Reduce the height of the lay;

Reduce the cutting speed;
Use anti-fusion paper in the lay at regular interval;
Lubricate the knife during cutting;

4. Supporting of the lay:

Surface of the cutting table depends on methods of fabric cutting. The table surface
should be capable to support the lay as well to ensure that all the piles are cut at a
time during fabric cutting.
In Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. the sequence of the operation in cutting Section is as
follows:

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Flow Sequence of Cutting

Sample pattern

Order sheet

Store receiving fabric

Inspection of fabric

Fabric width measure

Marker making

Fabric spreading

Cutting

Parts checking

Numbering

Panel check
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Bundling , shortening

Transfer for sewing

Fabric inspection:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.

GSM Check
Dia Check
Fault Check
Point calculation
Four point system calculation
Prepared fabric inspection report
Prepared weight sheet
Send to store (With Weight Sheet)

Description of production process:

Fabric received from store
Before fabric laying a thin paper as like as marker that is marker size and thin paper size is
same, then thin paper attach with spreading table by gum tape then spread the fabric
according to marker size.
Marker Making :
Marker is a thin paper which contains all necessary pattern pieces for all sizes for a particular
style of garments in such a way that fabric wastage would be least Marker width is equal to
the minimum fabric width and its length depends on the no. of pattern sizes that will be the
drawn .
Method of marker making :
1)Manual Method
2)Computerized Method
This factory used in manual method
Advantages
-Suitable for small production
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-Investment is low

Disadvantages
-More time required
-High labour cost
Fabric Spreading
Fabric spreading is a process by which plice of fabric is spreaded in order to get required
length and width as per marker dimension .This a preparatory operation for cutting and
consists laying
Method of fabric spreading
1)Manual method
2)Mechanical method
This factory used manual method
-Spreading complete by hand
-Spreading by hook
Straight fabric lays used in this factory
-This lay is mostly used
-Few fabric wastage
Fabric cutting:
Fabric lay is cutting by straight knife cutting machine then separated cutting part.
Numbering:
In this stage sticker is attached with all part of cutting part for shade matching. The sticker
number maintains cutting number, size number, serial number.
Prepared the bundling card
Prepared bundling card according to fabric lay report this card maintain

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Program No
Cutting No
Size No
Pies
Roll No

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Bundling:
In this stage all number are checked according to serial number.
Quality inspection and part-back part is fold together:
Here all parts are checked according to following fault.

Oil Sport
Dirty Sport
Crease mark
Needle mark
Foreign yarn
Slub
Contamination
Hole

Then same number of sticker are marked fold and bundled

After Cutting Store:
All bundles are put in the input rack then send to sewing section.
Limitations of Cutting Section:
Input problem.
Scissor man cuts the tubular fabric to spread randomly and send to cutting floor and
then find out the desired fabric to lay on the table.
There is maybe no group for any table.
Quality inspection and front part and back part are fold together. The faulty body
parts are rejected but the rest ok body is not match by the same batch.
Cutting quality man may not be trained.
Check, variegated rib fabric lay quantity may be excess. As a result reject percentage
may be increased.
Fabric Spreading.
There is may be no identification number to the rest of the cutting price of the lay.
There is no individual marker man for any unit.
Three cutting man cuts the fabric according to the marker.
Four man working with numbering m/c to sort out the cut fabric.
Two man preparing the bundle cards by writing on a piece of fabric.
In this stage four men bundle the parts according to serial number.

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Sewing Section:
Sewing Section is the crowds section in Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. All day
long there machine are ruined according to the plan. From the cutting section the cutting parts
of different garments brought in sewing section to sew. First of all machine is set out
according to requirement. In this chapter I will try to give some flow chart of the different
garments item sewing along with the machine lay out plan.

in sewing machine normally the following machine is used:

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Plain Machine(S/N)
Double Needle Machine(D/N)
Over lock Machine(O/L)
Flat lock Machine(F/L)
Kanshai Machine
Button Hole Machine
Button join Machine
Rib Cutter Machine
Bar tack Machine(B/T)

Sewing:
Sewing Production Flow Chart:
Input taken and sample arrange
Cutting
Store
Cutting
Sewing
Store
In line work
Lay out submit
PP meeting
Label check
Sewing Start
During Sewing
Out put

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Finishing
Ship the Goods

Sewing Procedure:

Input taken and Sample arrange Input taken will provide by planning department with ensure the shipment date, size,
break-down according to manpower of that line and confirm the checklist sheet of
store is ok.
As per input taken planner will provide sample from sample department.
AQC will select the PP sheet and other necessary papers in the mentioned style.
Cutting
Input man collects size-wise information from cutting section for giving the
requisition in store for accessories (label; button, twill-tape etc.)
Store
From store it has to ensure all the accessories if the mentioned style is in the house.
As per requisition store will start to arrange the accessories.
One requisition is given for thread
Cutting:
Input man will collect the size wise input by counting which is confirmed by cutting
section.
Pre-work, printing, embroidery and other parts have to give by accurate check and
counting as per input quantity which will taken by sewing input man.
Sewing:
Input man put the input in rack by size-wise.
Store:

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 Store will provide all the accessories as per requirement of the inputted quantity and
input man take accessories by counting.

In line work:
After getting all necessary things supervisor will start paper layout and take necessary
actions to avoid the problems which can be affected during pick production line.

Layout submits:
Before start the production, supervisor submit the layout sheet in IE and maintenance
department.
PP meeting:
Before starting the sewing in the line of the style it has to be conduct pp meeting to
avoid the missing of buyer comments or requirement.
Label check:
AQC check the label against trim card and give the permission to start the sewing.
Sewing start:
It is mentioned that sewing will start by size wise which quality is large.
During sewing:
Supervisor and line-chief doing the major job during the sewing.
They always try to solve the up-coming problem.
Maintain the hourly production with right quality.
Output:
After doing all processes and quality check garments will stored in output table.
Reporter will collect the garments from output table.
After collecting the garments, reporting will count and delivery the goods finishing
section by size wise.
Finishing:
Finishing will ensure that the size wise quantity is ok as per order quantity.
If there any size missing or size wise breakdown not accurate as per order quantity
they have to inform the respective production officer.
Ship the Goods:
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 As per order quantity finishing will complete carton and make as final inspection.
After final inspection goods will delivery for shipment.

Sewing sequence of polo shirt

SL NO.OPRATION

MACHINE

SMV

MAN POWER

Placket rolling

1 p/m

6.1

OP=1,HL=1

Moo

1 p/m

14

OP=1

nMoon top stitch

12.4

OP=1,HL=1

joint
Kasa maring (neck close)

0
11.44

OP=1

5
4
6

Placket matching with front

1 F/L
1

P/M

Table

,HL=2

P/M (Auto)

20.40

OP=1

Placket
part attach with front part
Placket top stitch

P/M

20.00

OP=1,HL=1

Placket tuck

P/M

17.1

OP=1,HL=1

Matching (F&B part)

0
13.0

OP= 1,HL=1

10

Solder joint with solder tap

0/L

0
10.0

OP=1,HL=1

11

Solder top stitch

F/L

0
12.00

OP=1,HL=1

12

Collar cut without thread

O/L( N o NEED)

6.00

OP=1,HL=1

13

Collar tuck with Placket

P/M

15.33

OP=1,HL=1

14

Collar joint with body

O/L

10.0

OP=1,HL=1

15

Neck piping

F/L

0
10,2

OP=1,HL=1

16

Main label joint

P/M

0
12.5

OP=1,HL=1

17

Sleeve hem joint with Sleeve

OIL

0
13.00

OP=1,HL=1

18

Collar back top stitch

F/L

17.50

OP= 2,HL=2

19
18

Cutting& Matching (Sleeve& Table

7.00

HL= 2

20

Sleeve
body) joint

2 O/L

22.50
(42:2

OP= 2,HL=2

21

Placket Kasa mara

P/M

19.30
0)

OP=1

22

Placket 1/16 top stitch

P/M (Auto)

11.00

OP=1

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Table

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23

Placket tuck

P/M

13.40

OP=1,HL=1

24

Care label joint

P/M

14.10

OP=1

25

Placket box top stitch

2 P/M

20.00

26

Inspection all back process

Table

11.40

OP=1

F/L

13.20

OP=1,HL=1

I 27

Bottom hem

OP= 2,1.1

28

Side seam

0/L

31.00

OP= 2 HL=2

29

Side band twill tap

P/M

10.40

OP=1,HL=1

17.30

OP=1

'f
30
I
31

Side band tuck

1 P/M (Auto)

Side band top stitch

2 P/M

29.30

OP= 2,HL=2

Sleeve inside tuck

1 P/M

12.00

OP=1 HL=1

33

Sleeve outside top stitch

1 P/M

9.30

,
OP= I,HL=1

34

Side band tuck

1 P/M

17.50

OP=1,HL=1

35

Button hole

1 B/H

12.30

OP=1

36

Button Positionin

able

10.00

OP=1

37

g
Button attaching

14.10

OP=1

32

B/A

Here ,
Symbol

Name

Quantity

P/M

Plain machine

18

O/L

Over lock m/c

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P/M (Auto)

Auto Plain m/c

F/L

Flat lock m/c

B/H

Button hole m/c

B/A

Button attaching m/c

OP

Operator

40

HL

Helper

33

Total Machine = 37

Total Manpower = 73

Result: Total time required to making garments is 9:28 if single machine is used. But
double machine is used in (operation, 18, 21, 25, 28, 31) so that time Reduce 60 secede.
Actual Total time required to making a garments=8:28 minutes (basic time)

Sewing sequence of T- shirt

Parts name

M/c name

No of m/c

Side seam joining

4 thread Over lock m/c

2 m/c

Label tuck

Plain m/c

1 m/c

Label join with body

Plain m/c

1 m/c

Side top seam

3 thread flat lock m/c

2 m/c

Shoulder join

4 thread Over lock m/c

_ 1 m/c

Shoulder top seam

3 thread flat lock m/c

1 m/c

Rib v sewing

Plain m/c

1 m/c

Rib show tuck

Plain m/c

1 m/c

Rib servicing

2 thread flat lock m/c

2 m/c

Rib servicing by cutting

Over lock m/c

1 m/c

V tuck with body

Plain m/c

2 m/c

Neck join

4 thread Over lock m/c

2 m/c

Rib binding

2 thread flat lock m/c

1 m/c

Back top seam

Plain m/c

1 m/c

Sleeve inside tuck

4 thread Over lock m/c

1 m/c

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Sleeve hem

3 thread flat lock m/c

2 m/c

Sleeve join

4 thread Over lock m/c

2 m/c

Body hem

3 thread flat lock m/c

1 m/c

Quality check

Men

2 person

T shirt layout (Long sleeve):

Parts name
First shoulder join
Neck binding/piping
Binding tuck
Second shoulder join
Shoulder top stitch
False tuck on the neck
Sleeve join
Arm hole top seam
Side seam join
Sleeve hem
Body hem
Care label
Quality check

M/c Name
4 thread Over lock m/c
3 thread flat lock m/c
Plain m/c
4 thread Over lock m/c
5 thread flat lock m/c
Plain m/c
4 thread Over lock m/c
5 thread flat lock m/c
Feed of the arm (6 thread)
3 thread flat lock m/c
3 thread flat lock m/c
Plain m/c
Men

No of m/c
1 m/c
1 m/c
1 m/c
1 m/c
2 m/c
1 m/c
2 m/c
2 m/c
6 m/c
2 m/c
1 m/c
1 m/c
2 person

Sewing sequence of Tank Top

Parts name

M/c Name

No of m/c

First shoulder joint

4 thread Over lock m/c

1 m/c

Neck piping

3 thread flat lock m/c

2 m/c

Neck tuck

Plain m/c

2 m/c

Second shoulder joint

4 thread Over lock m/c

1 m/c

Chup tuck(Neck)

Plain m/c

1 m/c

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Armhole piping

5 thread flat lock m/c

2 m/c

Armhole Tuck

Plain m/c

2 m/c
2m/c

Side joint

4 thread Over lock m/c

2 m/c
2m/c

Body Hem

3 thread flat lock m/c

1 m/c

Seam
Definition:
In sewing a seam is the line where two or more layers of fabric are held together by stitching.
In order words, the line of joining of fabric is called seam. The arrangement of fabric ends at
the seam line called seam type

Properties of Seam:
Properties of seam are assessed on the following two aspects:

Appearance
After sewing, the seam area is observed for any defects, if present which affects
outlook. Normally it is expected that there will be no defective view of stitches, seam
pucker, or unsightly view.
Performance:
Performance of a seam is assessed according to following criteria.
Seam strength: strength of a seam should be equal to or slightly less than the fabric
strength.
Seam elasticity: Elasticity property of a seam should be equal to or greater than the
fabric elasticity.

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 Durability: Durability of a seam equal to or greater than the durability of the fabric.
Especially during wear and washing, the seam should not fail or damage due to
frictional forces and tension.
Security: During normal use of apparels, the seam should not fail due to simple
reason. Confidence of normal stability of seam is the security of the seam. If the seam
fails due to normal reason the situation might be unexpected.

Comfort ability: Apparels, during normal use should not create any irritation or
problem to body and health as well.
Special property: If clothing has any special property like water proof, fire proof,
chemical resistant, etc then in manufacturing this apparel the seam should be
produced in such a way that the seam have also such special property.
Garment seam:
Seam is the combination of stitch which makes line to join two ply of fabric. It has both
functional and decorative purpose.
There are 8 classes of Seam:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.

Seam Class 1
Seam Class 2
Seam Class 3
Seam Class 4
Seam Class 6
Seam Class 7
Seam Class 8

:
:
:
:
:
:
:

Superimposed Seam
Lapped Seam
Bound Seam
Flat Seam
Edge neatening Seam
Applied Seam
Belt loop Seam

Factors that affect seam strength:

Five factors that determine the strength of a seam include:

Fabric type and weight.

Thread fiber type, construction, and size.
Stitch and seam construction.
Stitches per inch.
Stitch balance.

Seam type:
Seam types in the apparel industry are used to categorize according to their structure. Each is
classified by the abbreviated seam type(example: Superimposed Seam= SS). There are more
than 100 types of seam and all those seams are grouped under 8 (eight) classes, called seam
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classes. Each seam class is useful for different condition methods. The seam class are
discussed below:
Seam class-1(Super imposed seam):
Seam under this class have a general characteristic and all the fabric ends are lying in one
side of the seam. This type of seam is used for general sewing, trouser side seam etc.

Seam class-2(Lapped seam):

This class of seaming has the largest number of variations. A lapped seam is achieved with
two or more pieces of fabric overlapping each other. LS commonly, but not always, have one
ply of fabric fold under itself for a finishing edge. Lapped seam are common when working
with leather and sewing side seams on jeans and dress shirts. Fabric ends lie at both sides of
the seam line. Seams under this class are very strong.

Seam class-3 (Bound seam):

The purpose of a bound seam is to finish an edge of a garments. A common example of this
would be a neckline of a t-shirt. A bound seam is one piece of fabric encompassing the raw
edge of another piece of fabric. There are 18 variations of a bound seam. Seams under this
class are produced with at least two pieces of fabric. One piece of fabric bound the open end
of other piece of fabric.

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Seam class-4(Flat seam):

Flat seams are constructed by having two pieces of fabric meet precisely at their edges. A
cover stitch is used to sew the two pieces of fabric together. This stitch has multiple needles
and creates a stitch perpendicular to the seam line. This creates a flat seam which is
commonly used on garments the fit closely to the body such as underwire. The purpose is to
create a seam that will be flat throughout the duration of the garments life. Seam under this
class are produced by keeping the fabric plies side by side i.e. without overlapping of plies of
fabric. Hence seams can produced without increasing the thickness of the seam.

Seam class-5(Decorative seam)

Seams under this class are produced only for decoration purpose with single pieces or multipieces of fabric.

Seam class-6(Edge neatening)

Seams under this class are produced in such a way so that the fabric ends from cut area
cannot come out during use. Over lock sewing is frequently used for this purpose.
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Seam class-7
These are sometimes called applied seam because they are mainly used to apply a decorative
material to an edge of seam, such as the lace ending on a nightdress sleeve.

Seam
class-8
Constructed from one ply of fabric only, this class is commonly used for belt loops and waist
belts.

Garments stitch:
Stitch is the unit of seam which is formed by interlacing, interloping, intra-looping or
combination of three principle.

1. Stitch Class 100

2. Stitch Class 200
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:
:

Single-Thread Chain Stitch

Hand Stitch

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3.
4.
5.
6.

Stitch Class 300

Stitch Class 400
Stitch Class 500
Stitch Class 600

:
:
:
:

Lock Stitch
Multi-Thread Chain Stitch
Over-edge Stitch
Flat & Covering Stitch

Stitch Class 100- Single Thread Chain Stitch

-

Stitch is made by same thread through intra-looping

One needle and one looper is needed for forming stitch
Less Strength
Temporary stitch, Subclass-101
Invisible/Blind Stitch, Subclass-103

Uses: Basting, or light construction, Blind stitch for Hemming

Stitch Class-101

Stitch Class-103

Stitch Class 200-Hand Stitch

-

This stitch also produced from single thread

Less durable stitch
Subclass-202 is hand stitch
Subclass-209 is machine stitch
Uses: Decorative purpose such as Lapel of Coat Decorating, Tacking or Repairs etc.

Stitch Class-202

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Stitch Class-205

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Stitch Class 300-Lock Stitch

It requires two types of sewing thread
Stitch is form through interlacing
Bobbin and bobbin case required instead of looper
Both side are same
It is difficult to pick up the stitch when required
More Compact
Subclass-301 is more compact and non elastic
Subclass-304 consume more yarn and elastic
Uses: Top stitching and attaching elastic lace to the garments

Stitch Class-301

Stitch Class-304

Stitch Class 400-Multi-Thread Chain Stitch

- Multithread Chain stitch
- At least 2 set of thread is required for forming stitch (One is Looper Thread another
one is Needle Thread)
- Subclass-401 consists of 1 needle thread and 1 looper thread
- Subclass-406 consists of 2 needle thread and 1 looper thread
- Subclass-407 consists of 3 needle thread and 1 looper thread

Uses: [401-Waist Band of Jeans Pant, Side Seam of Trousers], [406-Hemming of TShirt & Polo Shirt], [407-Attaching Elastic bands to Briefs and Undergarments]

Stitch Class-401

Stitch Class-406

Stitch Class 500-Over-edge Stitch

Its function to stop fraying out of loose yarn from edge
It also increase seam security
Subclass-503 consists of 1 needle thread and 1 looper thread
Subclass-504 consists of 1 needle thread and 2 looper thread
Subclass-514 consists of 2 needle thread and 2 looper thread
Subclass-515 is the combination of 503 and 401
Uses: For surging the edge of fabric

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Stitch Class-502

Stitch Class-515

Stitch Class-504

Stitch Class-503

Stitch Class-514

Stitch Class 600-Covering chain Stitch

-

Formed with at least 3 groups of yarn

Covering stitches for decorative purpose.
Can be used to joint of 2 raw edges.
Suitable for knitted garment.
Cover Stitch for Over-stitching Seams, High Elongation for Foundation Garments,
also used for "Butt-Seams" (Joining Raw Edges Together)
Subclass-602 consists of 2 needle thread and 2 looper thread
Subclass-605 consists of 3 needle thread and 2 looper thread
Subclass-606 consists of 4 needle thread and 5 looper thread
Uses: For hemming of sleeve and bottom of T-Shirt, Polo Shirt and other Knit
Garments, Attaching collar, Contrast yarn in top covering thread for decorative
purpose

Stitch Class-602

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Stitch Class-605

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Sewing Needle:
A sewing needle is a long slender tool with a pointed tip. The first needle was made of
bone or wood, modern ones are manufacture from high carbon steel wire, nickel or gold
plated for corrosion resistance. The higher quality embroidery needles are made of platinum.
Needle size is denoted by a number on the packet. The convention for sizing is that the length
and thickness of a needle increases as the size number decreases. For example, a size 1 needle
will be thicker and longer, while a size 10 will be shorter and finer. The action of needle has a
direct effect on seam strength and garments performance.

Function of a needle:
The function of a sewing needle is:
To produced a hole in the material for the thread to pass through without causing any
damage to material.
To form a loop that will be picked up by the hook of bobbin case.
To pass the needle thread through the loop formed by the looper mechanism on
machines other then lock stitch.

Parts of a Sewing Needle:

The different parts of a needle and their functions are mentioned below
Butt: It is the truncated conical shape at the top end of the needle which is needed to
attach the needle with needle bar or clamp.
Shank: Shank is the upper part of the needle which locates which the needle bar. It
may be cylindrical or flat at one side.
Shoulder: shoulder is the section intermediate between the shank and the blade.
Blade: It is the longest portion of the needle from the shoulder to eye. This part is
responsible for the most amount of friction between needle and fabric.
Long groove: There is a fine slot in the needle from its shoulder to eye. The needle
thread remains at this slot when the needle penetrates the fabric and goes up and
down.

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 Short groove: Short groove is the slot on the side needle towards the hook or looper. It
assists in forming the loop of needle thread.
Eye: Needle eye is a hole at the tip of the needle through which the sewing threads
passes. It prevents the sewing threads from damage during sewing.
Point: It provides the best penetration of material according to its nature and the
appearance that has to be produced.
Tip: It is the keen extreme end of the point.
Size of needle:

DB * 1-7, 8, 9, 10, 11 for plain M/C

DC * 1-7, 8, 9, 10, 11 for over lock M/C
UY * 128-8, 9, 10, 11, for Flat lock M/C
UO * 113-9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 for kansai M/C
DP * 17-11 for button stitch M/C
DP * 5-11 for button hole M/C
DP* 5-9, 10, 11 for two needle lock stitch

Sewing thread:
Types of sewing thread being used in the garments industry of Bangladesh are followings:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

Polyester Core-Spun Thread

Spun Polyester Thread
Staple Spun Cotton Thread
Textured Polyester Thread
Polyester Cotton Core-Spun Thread
Trilobal Polyester Thread

1. Polyester Core-Spun Thread:

This type of thread is produced by spinning staple polyester fibre around a core of high
tenacity continuous filament polyester in yarn-spinning operation. Two or more of these
composite yarns are then twisted together to give the necessary size and tensile strength.
Key Characteristics:
-

Exceptionally strong.

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The continuous filament core (Having high tenacity) provides superior strength while
the staple polyester cover helps to protect the inner core from damage due to needle
heat.
Its resistance to abrasion helps ensure long seam life in a wide variety of materials.
Fine threads can be used for delicate fabric without compromising on strength,
thereby avoiding problems like seam pucker.
Brand Name: Epic (Coats)
Uses: Mainly used in topstitching of shirts, blouses, trousers, sportswear , jeans &
work clothes.

2. Spun Polyester Thread

Staple polyester fibres are spun into polyester yarn. Then two or more of spun polyester yarns
are twisted together to produce spun polyester thread.
Key Characteristics:
-

High tenacity of polyester ensures greater strength and thereby high abrasion
resistance.
Very least amount of shrinkage (less than 1%) compared to cotton thread.
Brand Name: Astra (Coats).
Uses: Mainly for over-edging. Also used for general seaming of shirts, trousers,
knitwear, jackets, blouses etc.

3. Staple Spun Cotton Thread

Normally long staple cotton fibers are spun into cotton yarn. Then two or more ply of spun
cotton yarn are twisted together to produce spun cotton thread.
Key Characteristics:
-

100% cotton thread have relatively low strength and elongation compared to those in
synthetic thread, therefore they need relatively light sewing tension and high stitch
densities.
Very high amount of shrinkage compared to synthetic thread.
During sewing, cotton thread is not damaged at high temperature generated by needle.
100% cotton thread is mercerized to provide greater luster and higher strength.
Brand Name: Dymax (Coats)

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Uses: Mainly used in sewing cotton garments that are to be post dyed.
4. Textured Polyester Thread
This Thread is made from textured continuous polyester filament. Texturing means
modification by applying crimp to the filament. It is done to make softer yarn.
-

5.

Provides high softness and comfort.

High extensibility and seam strength enhance higher seam security.
Also widely used in over-locking and covering stitches for high extensibility and
seam security
Brand Name: Gramax (Coats).
Uses: Mainly used in next to the skin seams for high softness. Ex: Underwear,
Swimwear, Baby wears etc.

Polyester Cotton Core-Spun Thread

This thread is made of polyester filament in the core and staple cotton fibre which wraps
polyester filament. Two or three plies of this yarn are twisted together to make thread.
-

Very low shrinkage, good strength

Cotton core protects poly core from needle heat and high ironing temperature.
Brand Name: Dual Duty (Coats).
Uses: Fine cotton denim shirts, Outdoor wear etc.

5. Trilobal Polyester thread

-

Newly developed polyester fibre to improve the dullness of usual polyester fibre.
Trilobal poly is a multiple filament, twisted, high-sheen continuous fiber thread.
It has the bright appearance of rayon or silk.
Brand Name: Sylko (Coats)
Uses: Embroidery for garment.

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Fabrics used in Apparel:

Based on Fiber fabric can be classified as Cotton Fabric, TC (Terylene Cotton) Fabric, and
CVC (Cheap Value Cotton) Fabric etc.
The Knit Fabric can be broadly classified as follows:
1. plain fabric
Uses :Plain fabric are used for basic T-shirt , under garments , mens vest , ladies hosiery ,
fully fashioned knitwear .
2. Rib fabric
Uses : Rib fabric are used for socks , cuffs , waistbands , collars , mens outwear ,
knitwear , and underwear etc

3. Purl fabric
Uses :purl fabrics are widely used for baby wear childrens clothing , sweater , thick and
heavy outerwear , under garments etc
4. Interlock fabric
Uses : Interlock fabric are used for underwear , shirts , suits , trouser suits , sportswear
and dresses etc
5. Fleece fabric
6. Piquee fabric
7. Mash fabric
8. Single jersey & Double jersey fabric
9. Single lacoste & Double lacoste
10. Lycra jersey fabric
The Woven Fabric can be broadly classified as follows:
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1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

Plain/Poplin Weave
Oxford/Basket Weave
Twill Weave
Dobby Weave
Jacquard Weave

01.
Plain/Poplin Weave
They are (One up one down) structured basic fabric. They so many types:
Poplin:
-

Thin Fabric with Higher EPI/PPI

Fine yarn is used
Standard Construction: [11076]/[4545]
Uses: Pocketing

Canvas:
-

Very Thick Fabric with less EPI/PPI

Coarser yarn (Ne: 6-10) is used
Standard Construction: [7042]/[1010]
Uses: Pant, Blazer

Sheeting:
- Light Fabric with Less EPI/PPI
- Medium Fine yarn is used
- Standard Construction: [6868]/[3535]
Uses: Shorts
Calico:
-

Less Heavier Fabric than Canvas Fabric

Coarser Yarn is used
Standard Construction: [6868]/[3535]
Uses: Winter Garments, Dress Pants, Shorts

Taffeta:
-

Glossy & Shiny Fabric

Synthetic (Polyester/Nylon) with Less or No Twisted Yarn is used

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Standard Construction: [12090]/[70D70D]

Uses: As Lining inside Coat, Blazer etc.

Taslan:
-

Heavier Fabric than Taffeta

Weft yarn is 2 times coarser than warp yarn
Standard Construction: [12070]/[70D140D]
Uses: As Lining inside Coat, Blazer etc.

Chambray:
-

Simple structure with colored warp yarn and white weft yarn
Color may reflect by changing visual angle
Uses: Mens Shirt, Ladies Shirt etc.

Ottoman:
-

The filling (Weft) yarn is more coarser than warp

Uses: Specially for Pants

Flannel:
02.

One or both side surfaced fibre being raised by Brushing

Very soft in handling
Uses: Ladies wear, Babies wear etc
Oxford/Basket Weave

Two parallel yarn (Without Twist) used in warp way

Single yarn is used in Weft way

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03.

Standard Construction: [11076]/[(30+30)20]

Uses: Shirt (Especially for US Buyer, Shorts etc.
Twill Weave

Twill fabrics are many types:

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

Basic Twill (31, 21, 22, 33 etc)

Herring Bone Twill (Especially for Pants, US)
Broken Twill
Sateen (Made from Cotton) / Satin (Made from Silk or Rayon) Fabric
Denim Twill

Denim Fabric:
In Denim Fabric Colored yarn is used in Warp way and White yarn is used in Weft way.
These fabrics are mainly used for Pants, Shirt etc. There are 4 major types of Denim:
1.
2.
3.
4.

Basic Denim
Cross-Hatch Denim: Different yarn count use in warp and weft way
Ring Denim: Only warp count is different
Slub Denim: Slub yarn is used
Another Popular Denim is

5. Bull Denim: Heavy weight Denim

04.

05.

Dobby Weave
-

Combination of Plain weave and Twill weave

Very popular for Shirting, curtain etc.

Any types of design with any size of repeat can be made

Costlier fabric used in decorative purpose

The Repeat size of Check Fabric is Smaller than Plaid.

Repeat size of Plaid Fabric is Larger than Check Fabric.

Jacquard Weave

Check & Plaid Fabric:

Uses: Especially for Shirt

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Seer-Sucker Fabric
-

An weave stripe is made by varying tension between warp yarn

Natural rough and shrinkage effect
Uses: Especially for Shirt

Garments defect:
Garment defects can be separated into 3 categories:
1. Fabric defects
2. Workmanship and handling defects:
3. Trims, accessories and embellishment defects

Fabric defects
These are defects that are found in the fabric; mostly these are not caused by the sewing lines.
The common fabric defects are running shade, selvedge to selvedge shade, holes, staining
mark, missing yarn, foreign yarn, slub, hairiness etc.
It can be overcome by Fabric inspection before cutting.
Workmanship and handling defects:
These are defects that are directly caused by production section; this would include both the
cutting and sewing section. Buyers approved samples must be referred to maintain perfect
workmanship.
Workmanship means all the details such as measurement, outlook, ways of attaching trims,
packing etc. Typical Defects can be categorized as follow:

a) Seam Puckering:
-

It refers to the gathering of a seam either just after sewing or after laundering causing
an unacceptable seam appearance.
This problem arises due to uneven stretching on to plies of fabric during sewing,
improper thread tension, wrong sewing thread selection, dimensional instability of the
plies of fabric etc.

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b) Shading Variations within different parts:

-

It arises due to improper cutting, bundling and numbering.

It occurs when portion of the garment that has not been covered by sewing thread.
This happens due to improper handling of the parts of garments, improper setting and
timing between needle and looper or hook etc.

c) Open seam or broken seam:

d) Broken Stitch:
-

Non-continuous sewing thread during stitching.

It appears due to improper trimming or machine usage.

e) Drop stitch/Skipped stitch: Irregular stitching along the seam:

- It appears due to improper handling of cut pieces or machine usage.
f)Wavy/staggered stitching:
- Stitches are not straight.
- It appears due to improper handling of cut pieces, faulty feed mechanism, needle
deflection or wrong needle.
g) Uncut/ loose thread:
-

Extra thread or loose thread on seam line. It appears due to improper trimming or
finishing.

h) Sizing defects
-

It means difference in measurement of various parts of garments

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Wrong placement of pocket, buttonhole, embroidery and prints , measurement

discrepancy
All these problems come from pattern section.

I) Poor ironing:
-

If ironing is not sufficient, there might be creases and crinkles on garment surface
And if ironing is too heavy, there might be shining mark on garment.

Misaligned buttons and holes, unfinished buttonhole, missing buttons

Wrong placement of labels or hang tag
Wrong folding or poor folding, improper packing into cartons

j) Finishing Problem:

Trims, accessories and embellishment defects

These defects include color, size and placement of trims such as labels, sewing thread, screen
print, embroidery designs, zipper, hangtag, lining, button and any kind of trims. Common
Trims, accessories and embellishment defects are:
-

Unmatched color of thread

Button and zipper tape
Short zippers, faulty zippers
Wrong labels, improper size of the labels
Printing mistake of labels and cartons
Broken poly bag
Wrong hanger
Improper embroideries and prints etc.

Classification
Defects are also classified (as per extent of defect) into:
1. Critical defects
2. Major defects
3. Minor defects
1.Critical defects
- Critical defects are defects that are not allowed to be shipped and are the most serious
of defects (0%).
2. Major defects
- Major defects are serious defects that are not allowed over a certain percentage (3%)
depending on buyers requirements
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3. Minor defects
- Minor defects are serious defects that are not allowed over a certain percentage (5%)
depending on buyers requirements

Finishing Section:

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From the sewing section all garments are sending to the finishing section to check them
before packing. It is known to all finishing parts is done very carefully then the little fault
may be unseen at a glance. It is ensured that all the accessories are the attached with garments
according to the buyer requirement which are already approved iron is done carefully and
gives attention the fold mark where it is exactly placed. Here steam iron may be the proper
solution and in Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. Steam iron is used in every section
where it is necessary.
When poly packing is done then it done then it is very carefully handle that there is identify
the assortment requirement. The carton size and the format is also the vital in the finishing
section.
Finishing layout
Thread cutting
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Repeat button
Pocket cleaning
Inside pre-final
Top side pre-final
Thread sucker
Ironing
Final check
Measurement check
Get up
Hand tag
Hand tag level check
Folding
Packing
Delivery

Production flow chart:

Fabric and accessories to Store

Fabric Checking (Before

sending to cutting)

Inspection before cutting

Drawing Marker, Laying

cutting and numbering

Numbering and Bundling

Cut fabric sent to the sewing line

Trimming Inside /Outside

Inline Inspection

Inspection
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Final

Inspection

Primary Inspection

Washing if required
Button /Cording

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Chapter-VI
Quality assurance system

Quality assurance procedure:

Inspection room and sewing line should be clean and tidy.

Fabric Inspection report.
Table stores easy identification Inspected and non Inspected fabric.
Trim Inspection report 0.65% A,Q.I 10% total trims up to 30% in case of tan our in
10%.
Trims stores easy identification Inspected and non Inspected fabric.
Color contents card. Each and every batch with collar and rib fabric.
Fusing check report.
Panel check report.
Fabric relaxation report each and every batch import or local.
Broken needle register.
Process wise inspection system .

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Complete line file with list.

Complete trims card.
P.P sample to hangs in the relevant line.
Size set checks records.
P.P melting records.
In the inspection report one for each 3000 pcs.
SPC system and records.
In line measurement report as per Tema maneal.
First packing inspection within first 50to 1000pcs.
Pre final inspection .
Final inspection records.
Original measurement checks records packing section style wise 100 garments.

BEFORE STARTING PRODUCTION

Fabric inventory.
Fabric blanket individual style.
5 yds fabric to office.
Accessories inventory.
Trim card checking.
Single poly measurement confirmed.
Pre-production size set.
All twill fabric/ cotton types washed before going to inline / elastics.
Details pp meeting with factory/discuss possibility of problem critical area.

DURING CUTTING

Fabric checked based on 4 point system.

Has factory out goods correctly as per latest order sheet.
Fabric numbering method suitable and correct.
Has factory cut shade wise( check the cutting record).
Blanket shade as same per buyer approved shade.
DURING IN LINE

Compare pp samples comments with first output.

Compare all trims against approval.
Finish pattern are correct measurement.
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Fusing quality / color is appropriate with the fabric.

Any bubbling after fusing / after wash.
Is correct thread is used in bobbin and top thread.
Number of stitch per cm as per buyer given requirement.
Correct size needle used in each operation.
Is all type of marking in line can be removed after sewing / washing.
Measurement checked / before wash / after wash.
If non denim garments are they going to washing plant.
Blister poly / carton measurement.

List of equipment:

Abrasion and pilling tester.

Seam slippage.
Perspirometer.
Wrinkle recovery tester.
Light fastness tester.
Air permeability tester.
Crease recovery tester.
Pressely strength tester.
Spectra photo meter.
Wrap block.
Crock meter.
Digital fibro graph.
Aqura neps and length.
Rape meter.
Flame meter.
Color matching cabinet.
Launder meter.

Quality standard:
The standard quality level maintain is 2.5.
Acceptance quality level 2.5 normal level
Delivery
Size
51-90
91-150
151-280
281-500
501-1200
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Inspection
Quantity
20
20
32
50
80

Major faults
Accept
Reject
1
2
1
2
2
3
3
4
5
6

Minor faults
Accept Reject
1
2
2
3
3
4
4
5
7
8

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1201-3200
3201-10000
10001-35000
35000-50000

125
200
315
500

7
10
14
21

3
11
15
22

10
14
21
21

11
15
22
22

Quality report:
SL.no
01
02
03
04
05
06

Description of defects
Rivers open at front pocket
Rivers missing at front pocket
Broken stitch at front pocket(Bag side)
Care label size missing at in side
Over lock mark front at top side
Standard at waist band
TOTAL

Minor

02
01
04

Major
05
01
02
01
09

Remarks :
Quality control department is checked all part of the fabric. It is understood that the
inspection were carried out at random.

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Chapter-VII
Maintenance

Maintenance:
Maintenance is the action taken to prevent a device or component from failing or to repair
normal equipment degradation experienced with the operation of the device to keep it in
proper working order.

Objective/ Advantage Maintenance

To keep factory plants, equipment, machine tool in optimum working condition.
To ensure accuracy of product and time schedule to delivery customers.
To minimize downtime of machine.
To prolong the useful life of factory plant and machine.

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 To modify or improve productivity of existing machine to meet the need for

production and avoid sinking of additional capital

Routine:
Daily maintenance necessary for garments industry. Lubrication and regular inspection are
the continents of routine maintenance. Lubrication ensures long life and safe working of all
the equipment.
Man power set up for maintains: Man power set up for machinery maintenance.
Maintenance procedure:
1.
2.
3.
4.

Repair
Maintenance
Setting
Replacement

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

Requirements for good maintenance:

Good supervisor and administration of maintenance department.
Operators should be well trained
Proper maintenance record should be maintained
Adequate stock of spare parts should always be kept.
Manufacturer of machine tools should be consulted and when required.
Maintenance department should remain in contact in planning and purchasing
department.

Maintenance tools and functions:

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
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Tester
Clutch motor
Cutting plus
Screw driver
Measuring tape
Safety glass
Riveter tools
Drill machine
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10. Electric Welding machine

11. Gas Welding machine
12. Super glue
13. Hexsa blade
14. Meter scale
15. Scissor
16. Stone
17. Hammer
18. Fatial
19. Hand gear machine
20. Start driver
21. Flat driver

Remarks:
Machine Maintenance is the important factor of garments factory

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Chapter-VIII
Utility Services

Utility facilities available:

Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd is located Tongi Basic Industrial Estate where utility
facilities available.
Capacity: 500mw
Source of Utility:
Electricity supply from PDB, water supply own dip machine and gas supply from Titas.
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Remarks: It has good utility service.

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Chapter-IX
Store & Inventory Control

Inventory control
Inventory in a wider sense is define as any idle resource of an enterprise in order to meet
expects of demand or distribution. It is commonly used to keep hold inventory of various
kind to act as a cushion between and demand.
Types of Inventory
Inventory are of the following 06 categories:
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1. Production inventories:
Items which are used to process final product e.g. raw material and
other component.
2. In processes inventories:
Semi finish product at various sage of production.
3. Finished goods inventories:
Complete product ready for dispatch.
4. Maintenance repair and operation inventories:
Items those do not from a part of final product are used in production
process like spare parts.
5. Miscellaneous inventories:
Scrap, surplus and obsolete item which are not to be disposed off.
6. Fluctuation inventories:
These are maintain to safeguard fluctuation in customer demand for the
product or availability of material.

Objective/ Advantage of inventories control

Improvement of customer friction:
This is achieved through maintenance of better balance among the quantities of finished item
on one hand and customer service to the other.

Reduction in manufacturing cost:

Manufacturing cost can be reduce byI.
II.

By better utilization of labor ,supervision and facilities by eliminate idle time due to
raw material shortage.
By making economical manufacturing runs in place of small lots. Constant
rescheduling and set up changes which are needed to component for unbalance
inventories.

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III.
IV.
V.

By minimizing machine down time caused by unavailability of spare parts.

By reducing purchase material cost by measuring requirement.
By keeping safe an impotent asset against theft, preventive waste ,insurable damage
or unauthorized use.

Improve the effectiveness of key personnel:

By taking care and minimize uncertainties like uncertainties in demand from customers and
uncertainties in producing the material in time.
Symptoms of poor inventory management:
I.
II.
III.
IV.
V.
VI.
VII.

Periodic server back

Continuously growing inventory quantities while the order backlog remaining
constant or increasing.
High rate of customer turn over and order cancellation.
Uneven production with frequent layoffs and rehiring.
Frequent used for uneconomical production to meet sales requirement.
Excessive machine down time because of material shortage.
Periodic lack of adequate storage space.

Different inventory costs:

I.
II.
III.

Cost of ordering
Inventory carrying costs
Costs of shortage.

Cost of ordering:
Cost of ordering is the amount of money expended in getting an item an inventory.
To evaluate this cost we have to identify the total annual cost associate with running a
purchase department. If the total number order place during the year divides this cost ,
the cost per order, can be obtained.
So,
Cost per order=Total cost in running purchase/Total no. of order during the year.
The cost of placing order can estimate by considering various cost as below Salary and wages of personnel of purchase department
Telephone , postage power and stationary cost
Rent / depreciation of machines and equipment building.
Inventory carrying costs:
This cost is carried in maintaining the stories in a firm and can be broken down in to two
categories:
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a. Cost of storage space light , rent, maintenance

b. Cost of holding stock-pilferage, spoilage, deterioration, protection
c. Other cost:
Stacking , packing, issuing, recording, keeping etc.
Cost that depend on the value of inventory:
I.
II.
III.
I.

Cost of capital, interest ,lost

Cost of insurance
Cost of obsolescence
Internal: Overtime and special administrative effort

a. The second case is lost sale case.

In this case we loss customers good will and also profit.
Economic order quantity:
The size of an order that minimize the total inventory cost is known as Economic
order quantity.
Lead time:
In case of procuring materials some the length of time ,which is spent to get suppliers
and parts in store after they are ordered for is called lead time.
The delivery date of plant orders are calculated by considering this lead time with the
date of which they are required .Any change in this lead time will change release date
of plant orders and this change will cause the total reschedules

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Chapter-X
Cost analysis

Costing

Costing is the process of preparing price quotation for the buyers given their specific
speculation costing is the compare of three components

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Direct cost , Indirect cost , Profit

1. Direct cost:
Direct cost covers the following costA.
B.
C.
2.
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.

Fabric cost
Accessories cost
Cost of making
Indirect cost:
Indirect cost covers the following costMachine depreciation
Transporting
Utility costs (eg. water, gas, electricity)
Workers salaries
Over-head costs

3. Profit :
Profit is set as 7-15%of the total of direct cost and indirect cost depending on companys
policy.
Solution:
Final cost = Direct cost+ Indirect cost+ Profit
The process of determining this final cost for specific order is known as Costing.
Costing is the important as it ensure the profit margin for a industry. A very efficient costing
can bring great profit for the industry with out pushing the buyer too much.

Costing of Mens shirt

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A. Fabric consumption for a dozen of shirt L size of basic shirt.

Width of body of shirt 1/2 chest
24"+1"(sewing allowance)
25"
Body length 32"+1"(sewing allowance)
33"
Sleeve length 23"+2.5(cost) +1.5"(sewing allowance)
27"
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Consumption of a body shirt:

{1/2 chest (body length) 2} / 36 fabric width. (Sq. inch)
25"33"2 (Sq. inch ).
{Let assume fabric width 25"effective width 25"1" 24"}
Fabric length 25332 / 44 inch

Fabric consumption 25332 / 4436 yds

Consumption of sleeve (length of sleeve width sleeve) 2 sq. inch
27"24"2" (Sq. inch)
Fabric consumption in length width
27242 / 4436 sq. inch
Total fabric consumption of one dozen shirt
[(25332 / 4436 + / 27242 / 4436) 2+ wastage of 8%]
22.75 yds + 8% wastage
24.6 yds
B. Sewing threads consumption:
It is calculated by measuring the total of different kind of seam. Normally sewing
threads consumption per shirt , 120m.
So, sewing threads consumption per dozen,
120 12
1440m
Costing of T- shirt

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Fabric Type

:Single jersey

G.S.M

:180

Yarn count

:24/1

Measurement of Garments:
Body length

: 54 cm

Chest length

: 43 cm

Sleeve length : 15 cm
Fabric Consumption = {(Body length + sleeve length + allowance) *(Chest length + 3)} * 2
/10,000 * G.S.M / 1000 * 12 * 10 % (+)
= {( 54 + 15 + 10 ) * ( 43 + 3 )} * 2 / 10,000 * 180 / 1000 * 12 * 10% (+)
=1.72 kg
=1.72* 0.18
= 1.90 kg / doz.
Costing
Fabrics cost

: 17.10

Cost of making

: 4.5

Print cost

: 3.5

Lab cost

: 0.20

Accessories cost

: 2.5

Washing cost : 1
Total = $ 28.80 / Doz.

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= $ 2.40 / pcs.

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Chapter-XI
Marketing activities

Consumer of the products:

Serial
No.

Buyers Name

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Logo

Brand

Country of
Origin

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Faded Glory, George,

Puritan, White Stag

USA

01

Wal-mart

02

Levi Strauss &

Co.

Levis

USA

03

Adidas

Adidas

USA

04

H&M (Harris &

Menuk)

H&M

Sweden

05

Carrefour

Carrefour

France

06

C&A

C&A

Germany

07

Temma

Temma

Turkey

Responsibility of Marketing Officer:

Report directly to Managing Director.
Co-ordinator with Merchandising Manager.
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 Responsible for business development/ develop new supplier sources and cost
control.
Frequent market research and up date.
Generate innovation to the organization.
Follow up current customer and ongoing orders.
Co-operate with customers and make.
Understand the general/ technical problems in the factory, convince customers
and get customers approvals approval where ever is possible on company
interest.
Find business for surplus good.
Prepare and maintain management reports.

Local market:
B.P garments is 100% export oriented garments factory. There product doesnt sell goods in
local market.

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Chapter-XII
Conclusion

The Ready-Made Garments (RMG) industry occupies a unique position in the Bangladesh
economy. It is the largest exporting industry in Bangladesh, which experienced phenomenal
growth during the last 25 years. By taking advantage of an insulated market under the
provision of Multi Fiber Agreement (MFA) of GATT, it attained a high profile in terms of
foreign exchange earnings, exports, industrialization and contribution to GDP within a short
span of time. The industry plays a key role in employment generation and in the provision of
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income to the poor. To remain competitive in the post-MFA phase, Bangladesh needs to
remove all the structural impediments in the transportation facilities, telecommunication
network, and power supply, management of seaport, utility services and in the law and order
situation. The government and the RMG sector would have to jointly work together to
maintain competitiveness in the global RMG market. Given the remarkable entrepreneurial
initiatives and the dedication of its workforce, Bangladesh can look forward to advancing its
share of the global RMG market.

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