STANTON MOOR ODDITIES

Stanton Moor
The well documented moor continues to throw
up some well hidden oddities for the
committed Stanton Warrior.

A Rural Object
A seldom visit blob of grit that is literally just off the beaten path and
always in good condition. A Rural Object is an enigmatic little
problem which now has an easier companion.

Leafcutter 6b

1. A Rural Object 6c
The right arte takes a bit of working out. Holds around to the right
are out at this grade.
2. A Rural Myth 5
Sit start the left arte then reach a dish then right to use the pinch
on the arte to finish.
Be warned - local climbing mythology forbids celebration sending dances on
boulder problems on the moor on the Sabbath for fear of being turned to a
blob of grit. (See below.)

My Left
Foot

A rural myth or a
petrified climber?

The Small Quarry

The small quarry is located just behind the Demons/Rural Object area. Park in the layby
below Demons and walk up the path. About 40m after A Rural Object is a small
wall/ruin. Turn right here off the path and after 20m drop down into the small quarry.

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5
4

Leafcutter Ant
One for you to
colour at home.

This wonderfully situated wall has some pleasant easy lines, two
harder offerings through the roof and a great view.
7. Make it Stick 6c
The roof at the right end of the buttress starting matched on the dish.
8. Viewpoint Slap 6b
A line just left of Make it Stick over the roof.
* An old one but still has some mileage.

Conditions
May need a quick brush to remove the dust. The slot may hold some damp but is fairly
easy to dry off.

Tom Allsop making Viewpoint Slap 6b

Easy Highballing Area

3. Leafcutter 6b
Worth seeking out and very different to other local offerings (such as virgins, goats and
virgin goats*). From a foot lock in the crack and the first edges traverse crimps leftwards
to the arte and up. Only holds on/below the thin seam for hands/feet, then the arte to
finish.
4. Citronella 5
From sitting, linking the two big ledges to the hole feature is more awkward than it looks.
5. Harvester 6a
The arte and edges from sitting on the right hand side. Start on a low right edge and a
pinch on the arte. Much easier if you can reach the slot or if you cheekily stack the pads.
6. Arte Project
From sitting on one mat pinch and guppy a way up the arte. Eliminate but fun.

Chicken Slab

Chicken Boy?

Chicken Ninja is a classic bit of padding up a

quality slab. It now has a few additions to
make the short descent down the hill from
Chick Factor more worthwhile.
9. Chicken Ginger 7a
The steep right arte on its right hand side
from sitting.
10. Chicken Ninja 6a
Classic padding up the slab.
11. Chicken Boy 6a
The right side of the left arte has a tricky start
to reach the undercut pinch.
12. Chicken Run 6a
Start up Chicken Ninja and pad across to
Chicken Boy.
13. Chicken Wing 5
The left side of the arte/sidewall looks a bit
like a chicken wing.

Conditions
Can be a bit scrittly but the key holds on the
slab should stay clean with a little traffic.
Chicken Ginger is still a bit dirty, take a brush.

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9

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Too tall to live,

too weird to die.
The Chicken Boy statue is on
a rooftop on Route 66 in LA.
The Chicken Boy boulder
problem is on the Chicken
Slab on Stanton Moor.

www.chickenboy.com
Future Studios LA

Plaque Area
There a lots of small bits of rock around the moor which offer good low grade
problems. This small prow just left of Aces High is a good example.
14. Small Prow 5
The prow from sitting.
15. Small Arte 7a+
A short arte below and between Green Man and Aces High involves a hard pull
off the deck to a pop to the top. A tied down spotter might be handy unless
youre in a hurry to get to Stanton Lees.

Brads Rib Area

16. Two Thirty 6b
A tiring extension. Starting at Mike Tyson and traversing the break right into
Pulling Teeth.

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