ROUTER UPGRADE: Al! New Vol. 14 Issue 83 www.ShopNotes.com | ee Ue = — De Nal oe = ec ee ACCESSORY RACK - SSS bd estos “Qn ET Cen eae bere eeContents Features storage solutions Modular Workstation, Make the most out of your shop space with this theevpar storage center. Whether you tuild one. two, or all hee pieces, youke sro to have your tools and supples clase at hard. fine tools. Marking Knife Geta better grip on your layouts with this ‘shop made hancle for your marking kite weekend workshop Table Saw Accessory Rack 2B ‘Keep al of your table saw blades, push stocks, and other accossories wihin easy es Y reach with this wall rack. eee eee bestbuit jigs & fitures Router Circle Jig Got more fom your router This easy-to-build lig uses an ordinary lazy Susan to accuratoy reut circular recesses and holes. Departments ta Readers’ Tips__ router workshop Cove Bits 8 Take a closer leok at these escental bits and fing out how 10 get too-noIch resus materials & hardware Cam Clamps 10 Reduce setup time on your shop jos ard frtures with quok-eleese car: lames jigs & accessories Shop Vacuum Upgrades 12 ‘Make your shop vacuurn moe varsatlo wih @ few low-cost accessories. Shop Short Cuts__ ‘Shop-tesied fips and techniques to solve your woodworking problems hands-on technique Band Saw Resawing___ KES Cutting pertect thin boards from thick stockis Router Circle Jig page 32 quick and easy. Learn the seores. a) ShopNotes No. 88‘Modular Workstation inthe shop Choosing a Hacksaw cuts and better results setting up shop G ’ Getting The Light Right Everything you do in the shop starts with 900d lighting. Here's what you need to know to get your shop out of the shadows. mastering ‘the table saw s Classic Cove Molding With a little time at the table saw, you can top off your project with some great looking cove molding, Vell show you Now. great gear " Snap-In Table Saw Splitters ‘Now, there's no excuse nat fo use one. These three splitter options add a new level of safety to your saw and can be removed in seconds. utimate garage Shop Mats. Werk longer and feel beter Here's how to choose an antifatigue mat to make working in ‘your shop more comiortate than ever. Q8A Sources www-ShopNotes.com New fraries and blades make for smoother Cutoffs lakea good tool and makeiitbetier. That's really the key to many of the projects in ShopNotes. And often, this involves taking a ‘00d bit of time to build 2 jig oran accessory 10 make a power tool work harder, more accu~ rately, oc more safely But sometimes it's nice to be able to go into the shop and complete a project in an after- noon. That's part of the reason | enjoyed the ‘marking knife project that begins on page 24 so much. We started with a simple, Japanese- style marking knife. The razor-sharp edge allows you to strike @ clean, precise layout line, But the delicate blede can bea bit i to hold onto. So what's the solution? We designed a custom handle — one made out of scrap wood and some copper bushings — that looks good and feels great in your hand. “This transformation from a good too] to a ‘great one is hard to describe. But I noticed that conce the handle was added, everyone who picked the marking knife up had a hard time patting itback down again Another project that'll make a handy addi- tion to your shop is the all-new router circle jig shown on page 32. What makes this jig unique is that it uses a lazy Susan in the design. So you just’spin’ your way toa cleanly routed hole or circle, But seeing is believing. So be sure to check out the online video we put together showing the jg inaction. ShopNotes This symbol lets you know there's more infor- 3 mation available online at wow. ShopNotes.com 3CLT Ty aes Get more wood- working tips free. Sept a Spindle Storage Solution really liked the spindle sander project from Issue No. 81, But after building it, needed a place to store thesanding spindles sothey would bbe within easy reach, So I put together this on-board storage rack to help keep the spin- des organized. That way, 1 always Know right where to find them, ‘The storage unit is easy to use. Fach size sanding spindle has its ‘own slot that holds it firmly in place. And when you need to change drums, you can quickly slide the enfire Storage rack out, select the spindle you need to use, and then slip the unit back under the sanding table again. ‘The rack consists of two %" y= ‘wood side pieces connected at the top by a wide piece of 14" hard- ‘board. A smal front iab on the top piece acts as a pull so you can slide the rack out to get at. spi stowed on the other side. AY’ owel across the bottom gives the lower part ofthe rack support. Slots are cut cut in the side prieces to hold the drums. To make sure the slots line up exactly, 1 ‘carpet taped the side pisces together and then used the bane ‘saw fo cut the slots on both pices at the same time. ‘Two 3"-square rabbeted cleats attached benesth the sander table hold the rack. These cleats captuire the wide top piece and allow the storage unit tostide in and out, Don Barrios Baker, Louisiana ‘ShopNotes No. 83Dowel Storage Tse alot of dowels for projects in my sry Bas fal a pba Sorin the lelover pisces once I toed port of a dove ‘The shorter pieces were always hard tofind and never seem to get usec. bop soe Ge probiem, Ibu the dowel storage ox you seo Macatee af night This storage box les me exsly oes 4 ee care ok corel lengths. That way, Tan find even ib mnallan paces quieliy ‘The storage box consis of five epee, Four $k tea oak partments have false bottoms so feck compari ac echo Shores than the one next to i. This stalnclep arrangement allows me to store allengths of pieces. And a shallow tray in font lols ne store the pieces that are too short to fitin ny ofthe other bins New dovels go iy ti dees bin. Then, as they're cut off, they're iniyed to the epprepeine bin ‘Now Tcan easily find and make use of allthe dowels have on hand, Len Urban Rancho Mirage, California Submit Your Tips 1¥ you have an original shop tip, we would like to hear from you and con sider publishing your tip in one or more of our publications. Just write down your tip and mail it te: ShopNotes, Tips or Your Shop, 2200 Grand AAvanu, Des Moines, lowa 50312, Pleese include your name, address, and daytime phone number {in case we have any questions). If you would like, FAX it to us et 518-282-6741 or send us an email message at: shoo. notes@shopnotes.com. We will pay up to $200 +f we publish your tio. The Winner! Congratulations to Fiste Miles of Kanses City, Miesouri His tip for making a taper jig wae eolected {as winner of the Porter-Cable router just ike the fone shown at the right. The adjustable taper simple and inexpensive to build, and it ‘euts perfect tapers every time, To find out how you could win a Porter- Cable router, check out the information above. Your tip just might be a winner, ‘www:ShopNotes.com sepl./Oct. 2005 Issue 83 i Se URLSHERDenad 2. Fence DTOR rer) sotman SOR EDTOFS bryan Nes, Vincent cena ASSOCIATE EDITORS Pil bec Te Rate [ASSISTANT EDPORS Rom hncon, ch oe [RECUTIVEART DIRECTOR Ted Lait AT DIRECTOR Cay Chistnsen [SERIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER Jao Doering SEMOR LLUSTRATOX Heer Reid ‘ALusiATORS Dav Kallen, ete tron ‘GRAPHIC INTER Becky Hansen ‘reanir OmECIOR ee Katee SENOR PROIET DESIGNERS Ken Wark ent Wn, Cie teh PROJECT DESICNER/OUIDIRS Mike Donoven, ann Daye SHOP CRAFTSMEN steve Cuts, Steve Jason ‘SR PHOTOGRAPHERS CrayelaEeoland Ones Kee ASSOCUTE VLE DIRECTOR Rebxce>Cunngham LVDEOGRAPHEES Crip Rscragge a Haye Senet ESS ENO natin a Sh a sspebny ues Haw Bein re ie ‘Stopataseeepere imine ene Par ‘Scopmitansby apa are Rang Aas rere ewe Gecictaanaieatopersnuakee Camda cuca Ca ert nor SA selena rman ieee ik oe “sce ences” Delton ft tae 00x Fre pag Hera ms nln you trough nye HOW To REACH US: FORSUBSCRPIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES (GR QUESTIONS WRITE CALL ‘ustemer service 22t0 Grange. Des Mies 14 50312 soea5is Sam cosem cr (0 SEND An ETO: ‘orcers@shopncts.com AvcusTHOME Pontsdin S.A 5ed yc eis) eer adjustable for quickly Brees ae Bost of all, i’s accurate I mado four hold-downs from and can accommodate a wide 1'-thick hardwood (see detail‘). variety of lengths, widths, and A slot at the top allows you to thicknesses of stock. It also works quickly position and then tighten. great for rip euis on narrow pieces themdown witha wing nut. ‘ Of stock without a taper, To use the taper jg, adjust the Adjustable ‘The booe of the jigis a ploce of fence to the devised laper and lock Ti Ji 34° plywood with three long slots it in place. Then swing the hold- japer Jig used to attach an adjustable fence. downs over the workpiece and I recently needed io cut some Each slot is recessed on the bottom tighten the wing nuts in place. tapers fora project and didn’twant so the head of a carriage belt sits Finally, set the rip fence of the to invest in a manufactured taper _outof the way (see detail ‘a’. tablesaw so the blade lines up with jig. So [built the simple jig yousee _Anadjustable 1" plywood fence the edge of the jig. Then simply in the photo above. sits on top of the base. It has slots push the slec) along the fence. It doesn’t take much material fo cuttomaich thesloisinthebasefor ‘Thats all it takes to cut perfect build the jig. You probably already adjusting the angle of the taper. tapers every time. have just about everything you'll Four holes in the fence accept 1" Fiske Miles need lying around your shop. carriege bolts forthe holé-downs. Kansas City, Missouri woe, — oy citation vappam FENCE ADIUOTWENT a, Sy ~« Fence: (On BASE i > AB BS ow alg ie ute ae HOLD-DOWN « o.9-n0nn1 (Gx039 9e6T10n) Qe —SSe ee ‘ADJUSTABLE ob b. ShopNotes No. 83.Hide-Away Workbench Workspace is ata premium in my small shop. So built a workbench that folds down from the wall lke anironingboard T made it sturdy enough to handle most tasks. But best of ali folds away into the wall when [ don't need to use it. ‘The workbench is easy to build. Its sized to fit into the space between two wall studs. The top is simply a piece of 4” MDE. ‘A.2xd wall support between the studs provides an anchor point for the bench. And a pair of hinges fis tens the bench to the wall support. ‘Thismakes it easy topull theborch down and stores away again. ‘stabilizing lo, attached to the end ofthe workbench with ahinge, ‘an be quiclly lowered to support the bench. The leg folds out ofthe way to store the bench in the wall Braie Moreau Kelowna, British Columbia (diets NOTE:cursy-ceer our WewroRnnee kT Mitt albrder Quick Tips >» Tohelp prevent rust formation, Ed Grabnski of Lansing, I, laces silca ge crystals ina used fim eenistorwith Powes punched in the top. Then the slips the canister in with his (cots. Y Erik Mason of Sherbrooke, Guabeo, Canada uses steel drywall comer braces for making elves. He simply cuts the corner piece to size then mounts itto the wal stuct, These simple “orackets” hold a plywood shel in place H ‘www.ShopNotes.com 7 (a es ‘A Beth Polinow of Appleton, iV, uses ‘metal binder elips to hold folded band saw blades. Then she simoly hangs the clip on the wall for easy storage.Workshop working with Cove Bits Cove bits are must-haves in any shop. Here’s how to choose and use them to get the best results. | Thedotails are what really make or work looks like the one in the left breaka project—whetherit’sacare- box below. And Il talk more about fully routed profile slong theedge of it later. But as you shop for a basic a workpiece or simply adding a covebit, you're aso likely tosee wo piace oftrim tosetoffa project other covestyle bits — a cove and For many of my projects, I fillet bit (enter box below) and a handle this by reaching for a cove classical cove it (ight box helow). bit. Acove bit is the “mating” pro- These two bits are used to cut file to a roundover bit. But instead more specialized cove profiles with of rounding over the outside edge _ fillets on the top and bottom of the ofa workpiece, a cove bit “scoops” cove. You'll often find these pro- out material along the edge to files on more traditionaltooking ‘create a round recess, like the you. furnitureand millwork, seein the drawing above. If you take a dose look at each ‘Types of Cove Bits. The cove bit profile, you'll see that each bit is T use most often for this type of really identical. The only difference is the sizeof the bearing, So you only need to buy one style of bit of the ‘ther. You ean simply change the bearing to getthe other profile. Note: “These special bits only come in two dlffernt sizes Qe" anid ie’ radius), Start with Basie Cove Bits. The basic cove bits are the workhorse bits in my shop. But unfortunately, a cove bit isn't onesizesfitsall. Some router bits likea chamferbit, will cata wide range of sizes, Buta cove bit will only create a cove of a single, specific radius. If you check out the drawing at the top of the opposite page, you'll Cove Profile hee E: Sa Classical Cove The standard cove bityousee below Adding a small filet near one end of The classical cove bit adds a second makes it easy to rout a smooth, the cove bit creates a profie found filet to te profie of a cove and filet decorative edge on a wide range of ‘on more tradiional-iooking pieces of bi, allowing additonal enhancement ‘urniture projecis ana tim pieces. Jurniture and mitwork. of furniture andi milwvork. ‘ShopNotes No. 83:ACTUAL SIZE er eADUs~ drawing at right. sreaDus XN ao 7 seri Wore cove ne cou RnR PRS 4A Range of Sizes. You can find bits torout coves froma tiny the" radius allthe way up toan moressive Ys" see that cove bits start at Yj" and goall the way up to'% radius (and even 1" with some manufacturers) Sobuying an entire set can be a siz able invesiment. For the projects | build, a 14", 34", and 14" cove bit will handle just about any task, (or sources, see page 51). Making Cove Trim. Most often, Tl use a cove bit to make small pieces of trim for a project. To do this safely, I turn to my router table and start with an extra-widie workpiece, like you see in the Jower detail at right. Doing this makes it easy to quickly and safely rout 2 cove Preventing Tearout As with most outing tasks, the main thing you have to beconcesned about when routing. cove is tearout. Most of the time, this happens while routing end grain. The probiemisthat the wood fibers onthe comer of the board are unsupported and split away instead of being cut Solving the Problem, I've found there are a few things you can do to prevent or minimize tearout. AS ‘mentioned earlier, one of the easiest ways to prevent tearout i to form the cove by making multiple passes. A couple very light passesat the end should solve the problem, But even that might not always work Proper Sequence. A second way to avoid tearout involves the sequence of routing. When I need to rout ‘a.coveall the way around a piece, [rout the end grain first. This way ifthe comer chips the tearout will becut away as I rout the long, Back Up the Workpiece. But what do youdo if you ‘only need to rout your covealong the end grain? An casy oon the final pass. ‘wow.ShopNotes.com along each edge first, And once the coves are routed, creating the trim pieces is just a matter of ripping tem free, like you see in the lower Making « Smooth Cut. When you're routing the profile, a single ass will work fine for small coves. But larger cove bits remove a lot of material So it's best to make a (of light passes, as in the drawing at sight You'll find light passes leave a smoother cut Plus, it also puts less stress on the router and bit, pco- Jonging bit life. So, how much should you take in one pass? I try rot to rout more than a 14" in depth on any cut. And even less (On the final pass I take an even lighter cut (14" oles). This i rally just a clean up pass to get 10 final depth and remove any dips or other ‘ool marks left rom theother passes. Dealing with Tearout. Using the right bit and technique goes a long, way toward routinga smooth cove. But you may find it won't always prevent tearout, especially when you're routinga cove on end grain. When this is the caso, there are a ‘couple steps you can take 10 pre: vent tearout. You can read all about that in the box below. & END VIEW we cover mm ‘A Smal Pieces. For trin, rout the cove on extra-wide stock and then ‘ip the cove molding to final size. ‘solution isto clamp a backer board of thesame thickness tothe workpiece atthe end ofthe cut, asin the drawing above. The backer board supports the fragile comes, keeping it fom chipping out. Backrout, And there’s one other solution. You can backrout the end of the workpiece first. Then go to the ‘opposite end and rout the rest of the cove. — th ee fe << Multiple Passes. ‘Since larger cove bits remove so much material, youll get the best results by leriting the depth of cut and making muttiple passes.Ce MECN acl When making a shop jig, many woodworkers tum to various types of knobs to make the igadjusiable. But there's another option that may not be 90 obvious — cam levers Cam levers, also known as quick-release levers, can_make working with jigs and fixtures quick and easy, especially when you're doing repetitive work. You've probably used cam levers without realizing it. Most table saw fences are lockee! into lever, as are many aluminum tool guides and back-iorback bench clamps Some routers even use a cam lever to“lock in” the bit depth. How It Works. A cam lever rotates around a pin called a cross dowel. The lower drawing et left shows how the pivot point on the wide, rounded part of the cam D lever is a little off-center A (calles an eccentriccem). When the lever is “up.” the cam doesn't apply any. pressure. However, 2 you push the lever down, it begins exerting down- ward force to lock your jig ot Fix: ture down fight. And the further ‘you push the lever down, the more resoure you're going to get. ‘Quick Release. Anc what's so nice about these clampsis the pres- sure is released immediately when the lever is flipped back up. Its mutch easier and quicker to flip a lever than tum a knob. Cam levers are especially useful as @ timesaver when used with a slot oc Track. You just flip up the This versatile accessory packs a load of holding power. lever slice the part where you want it, anal simply push the lever back down to lock it into replaced all the knobs ‘on my stop blocks and fences with, scam levers because the quick release feature isa real time-saver. WORKING WITH CAM LEVERS Wher you buy cam levers, you'll ‘get the lever along with a threaded ‘ross dowel (For sources, see page 51). You simply insert the cross dowel into the lever so that the threaded hole is between the lever's “wings.” The hole will take either a 54618 or a 46-20 bolt or threaded rod, depending on the size of cam lever you bought. ‘These are the two most popular sizes for cam levers. You can see dlifforont styles in the boxon the far right of the next page. Bolts and Reds. You ean use a flange, hex, or stove bolt, or threaded red to anchor your cam lever, depending on your applica ‘on. The bolt o: fod should extend above the hole to give the cross ShopNotes No. 83: s dowel plenty of thread to grip. But itshouldn’textend too much above the hole, or itl interfere with the quick-release action ofthe lever. CAM VS, KNOB ‘A.cam lever is installed just like a knob. After sliding a washer over the bolt, simply rotate the lever "until it touches the washer, lke you ‘would install a knob, Unlike a knob, however, you can push the lever down toward the ‘wide side of the cam to add more holding power Remember, the lever doesn thave to be completely horizontal to work When you're finished, just flip the lever back to the up position to Loosen its grip. You don't have to rotate the lever to release the pres- sure like you doa knob. If younsed the lever to lie as lat as possible, all you have to do is lunserew the Jever a Little bit at a time until you get the clamping, pressure and lover position you ‘want, Depending on your appiica- tion, though, there may be times Going The cam levers mentioned zbove are designed to apply downward pressure toa jig or workpiece. Shop For has gone another direction and developed a low-profile cam lever that applies pressure sideways. How this cam works is that you first slide it into T-track and push it firmly against your workpiece (see photo). Next, tighten the hex screw in the handle to secure the clamp. Then move the handle from one side to the other to tighten the jaw against the workpiece. Another feature is that the jaw is set at an angle to provide not only horizontal pressure, but also Wwww-ShopNotes.com ‘when you just can’t change the ori- entation of the lever. ‘The remedy is to adjust the space between the lover and the jig (rawing above). You can do ts by adding washers or using thicker cr thinner washers. Some manu facture include diferent washers with their eam levers So the next time you need to build shop jig or fixture, give cam levers try. They could become one ofthe most useful and aimesaving tool in your hop. ‘A Cam Clamp. This clamp slides along a Ftrack and leaves the too of your project unobstructed. downward force to keep your workpiece flat. Its low profile makes it perfect for holding your project while sanding. Other uses inclide holding pane's and pictuze frames together during glueup. it’s all In The Flip ‘As you can see in the photos below, not all cam levers are the same. While they all operate on the same prin- ciple, they come in various sizes and shapes. What sur- prised me while I was working with these levers is that their small size didn’t translate to small holding power ~ these cams can generate alot of downvrard force. ely 4 Smail Size, but ‘Strong. This com- paste bet ton Velo comer noc ares sealer fs anos ine: for sronaton or Sarre Te cote ] ee Soop pipes car poem tuaror Rockler > Easier Grip. This Rockler cam lever is a little laraer than the one above and comes with nylon washers, but the cross dowolient slotted. What 1 ike about this lever is that the enc curves up, making it easior to get your finger unde the cam when you need to release its grip. < Two Levers ‘Acting as One. This lever from Woodhaven is the beefiest of he tee. Its dual-action design ‘has eccentric cams on two sides, 80 you can flip it either way to acd pressure. The rubber washer sandwiched between !wo metal ones reduces the chance of F applying too much pressure and causing damage. ulate Accessories shop vacuum Upgrades A few accessories will turn your shop vacuum into the ultimate clean- up tool. ‘ ACCT Crush-Proot Hose. This polyethylene hoseis strong. yet flexible. And it has smooth wails to maximize airflow. HE | Like most woodworkers, | pur chased my shop vacuum with one purpose in mind — to suck up sawdust around the shop. But the truth is, a shop vacuum can do a whole lot more than thal With the right accessories, you can use a shop vacuum for all sorts of tasks —both in and outof the shop. Upgrades. A lot of these acces: sories come in the form of hose Sweeper Head. | attachments. But before we begin Fipong aiever | talking about these, there are a on this swooper couple of shop vacuum attachment raises “upgrades” that 1 would or fowars tho invest in right off the bat. ‘brushes for The first of these is a diferent tyeos bettor hose, ‘The stiff, (of flooring. » A large claw tool XQ ‘makes cleaning up around the shop quick and easy plastic hose that typically comes with most shop unwieldy and difficult to manage. les prone to getting kinked and crushed, and collapsing on itself. The ribs that are molded into the hhose to help reinforce it actually act a5 mini-roadblocks, impeding the flow of debris through the hose. ‘The solution is to buy a hose like the one shown above. This hose is made out of high «tensity polyeth ylene. If crush-proot and much ‘more flexible than standard hoces, And the inside of the hose is smooth, so debris pasces through it easier, with less chance of clogging, ‘And best ofall, the hese is avail able in 12° and 24 lengths, so you don't have to pull your shop vacuum around behind you.as you clean up. For sources, see page 5 The second upgrade on my “musthave" list is a new filter Replacing the standard-issue, SS ~ Crevice Toot For reaching into narrow, tight spaces, a crevice too! can’t be beat. paper-element filter with a better quality one really makes a differ- ence in the performance of the vacuum. For more on this, see the box on the oppesite page. ATTACH Both a new hose and filter are worth buying, even if all you ever suse your shop vacuum for i cleaning off your workbench. But there are also some pretty handy attachments oa the market Basic Attachments, For general cleanup, there are two main tools that Tuse (2ee photo above). For most cleanup jobs, 1 use a claw tool. Hallows you to cover fairly wide surface area, but i's still small enough to ft into most spaces. And for spots that are just too tight for the daw tool, a crevice tool comes in handy Floor Sweeper. Although you can use a claw tool to sweep up ‘ShopNotes No. 83Universal Adtepter. Steps on this fing alow ‘you to connect your vecuum to most attachments. ¥ debris from the floor of your shop, a floor sweeper works faster. (And saves your back too, if you use an extension wand along with it) The sweeper shown on the opposite page has a: “high-low” feature. By flipping a lever on top of the sweeper head, you can raise or ferent types o floorsurtaces. Micro Tool Kit. For delicate leaning jobs, micro tool kit works ‘great. As yout can seein the photo at left, these attachments look lke the larger versions — they're just smaller. You can use them to clean ‘everything from shop tools to your computer keybcard. ‘Adapter. Most newer shop tools have some sort of dust collection port built into them. The problema isthat these dust ports come in sev- eral difforent sizes, s0 it's not alivays easy to hook up a dust co! lector o shop vacuum to the tool youre using. That's where a unk versal adapter, like the one shown above, comes in handy. << Mecto Too! Kit. These micro tools are really just scaled down versions of larger shop vacuum attachments Vacuum Upgrade: Finer Filters Right out of the box, @ shop vacuum works great. But after awhile, you'll probably start to notice @ decrease in the suction power. That's because the pleaied paper filter that comes with your shop vacuum gets dogged with dust and blocks the airflow. Cleaning the filter helps alittle, but it nearly impessible to blow out all the dust that get’s packed into the pleats ofthe filter: Tha’s why I replaced the stock filter on my shop vacuum with a Cleansirean filer like the one shown inthe photo atright. www.ShopNotes.com ClanStream filters are made out of Gore-Tex, the same waterproof material that’s used on some types of rain gear. What makes these fil- ters work $0 well is the foct that dust particles won't cling to the Gore-Tex. Soas soonas you tum the shop vacuum off, all the dust falls away from the filler and to the bottom ofthe vacuum canister ClansStream: filters are also made to HEPA (High Efficiency Particle Arrsior) standards, So they remove 98.97% of all dust particles down to 03 microns in size. For sources, see page 51. ‘A Clearing the Air, By using a hose adaptor fo connect to individual tools, you can turn your shop vacuum into a dust collector ‘One end ofthis attechmenthasa series of stepped fitings. This allows you to “hook up” to most power tools without having to use a dedicated hose fiting Inflator. If you've ever gotten lightheaded from trying to blow ‘up an air mattress, this last attech- -mentisone that you'lleally appro- ciate. It's an inflator nozzle (see photoat right). Most shop vacuums allow you to connect the hose fo an exhaust port on the vacuun’ in order to blow air. By puting this inlator attachment on the other endl ofthe hose, you can tse your shop vacuum to Blow up ‘most inflatable items. You may not have a need forall fof the attachments mentioned above. But adding even a few can improve the versatility of your shop vacuum and help you keep a clomershop aswel. & A inflator Nozzle. Using this nazzle, ‘you can twin your shop vacuum into an air ioflator ‘A No More Paper Fiters. Because the material used in hie CleanStroam fiter is waterproof, youcan clean Itby spraying it off with a garden nose. BOur Shop Shop Short Cuts | 2-In-1 Insert installation Jig IH | Threaded incr, like the ones at each end. You can see left, are handy pieces of hardware. how everything goes With an insert or two (and some togetherin detail a.” fasteners), you can make a jig or The notch provides fixture easly adjustable, And aset dearance for a nut, of inserts work great on cabinets wesher, and threaded where you may need to allow for insert And adeep cour quick and easy disassembly, terbore accepts @ nylon ‘The challenge with threaded — spacerand spring that keep the bolt slightly (detail’b?) — especially ona inserts insialling them so they're and insert perfectly square to the workpiece with thin veneer or perfectly square, which isn’t workpieceduring the installation. _plastie laminate. To prevent this, T 4 Threaded | alwaysan easy task—especially in Before you assemble the hard like to drill a small countersink ~ Inserts. Adcing | the middle of a workpiece. ware, youl need to cut off a por- around the eige ofthe hoe. ~ threaded inser's | InsertJig, Tosolve this problem, tion of the threads on the bolt so Next, slipa washer onto the bolt to 2 project allows | 1 use a handy installation jig like there's about 3" remaining. This and thread the insert on. Then set you jon paris | you see in the photoabove. The jig way, the end of the bolt won't the jg (and insert) in place over the so theycan be | is just block of hardwood with 2 extend beyond theend ofthe insert _ hole. Firmly press the jig down so easiy adjusted | notch at each end, as illusirated in once i’sinstalled. the end of the insert seats itself in arremoved. | the crawingbelow. Installing an Insert. Using the the hole. Now it’s just a matter of ‘The two notches allow you to jig is wally quite simple. The first tuming the head ofthe bolt with a install either %4" or She’ threaded thing you'll need to doisdrill ahole ratchet until the threads start cut- inserts. They're the two inthe workpiece to match the body ting into the wood. Then just con- sizes Tuse most often. ofthe insert (drawing below right). tinue turning until the insert is ‘The key to how the But don't install the insert just flush with the surface. Note:A litle ‘works is some basic yet. If you do, the threads on the wax on the threads of the insert hardware inslled at insertcan “lit” theedgesof tehole will make theietalltion easier. a b, wriour counrersine ap yea, NOTE. curcows ose Inoter MceApe Pr EDSeS OF PELE ir NOTE BRE sigh A ee — f Seances pS gic | = | i= terri WITH COUNTERSINK COUNTERSINE Prevents. utano EDGES POM LIFTING: Waster — a —— aNooveaa || [ers 4 ‘ShopNNotes No. 83From Thick to Thin — Resawing on the Table Saw Normally, [ike to use a band saw for resawing (for more on this, you can refer to the article on page 30). aren't too wide (up to 6"), you can resaw them on your table saw. face, its fed tough the blace standing on edge, like you see in the photo at right. Setting It Up Right. The first you a smoother cut. Plus, a rip blade is thicker, so there's less ten- dency for itto flex while axtting. insert with a shop-made insert that fy fitted with a splitter, as ilus- trated in the box below. Perec ce rally, since T want as much control over the work- pieceas possible, Lottach a tll But if you don't own a band saw auniliary fence to the rip and the pieces you're resewing fence, as shown in Figure. Making the Cut, To make thecut Teel the fencetoresaw Resawing on the table saw is the board about "js thicker booically a ripping operation. But than the final desired thick instead of the board lying on its mess. Then, after I brish resawing, Iremove the marks left by the blade with @ hand planeor thickness planer Begin resawing by pressing thing Tdowhen setting up toresaw the workpiace firmly against Js to change saw blades. Although the fence. (A. featherboard youcan use combination blide to clamped to the saw table can resew,224-iooth ripblade will give help here) Then, use a thick push block to feed the beard Gyough the lade, Now: Use a pts black hathoois over the back Next, I replace my table saw ofthe workpiece, as in Figure 1 Tusually make the cut ina series of passes. Alter making the frst pass, flip the piece end for end o Prtaaes s yA a ee Cee ee Ce eee Dae ee made spiier (sée box bsiow). (kooping the same face against the fence) and make a second cut on tho opposite edge On stock thats 3 wide or less, 1 try to complete the cut with the second pass. The fewer cuts you have t make. the less cleanup work you'l have to do later The storks wider than 3", raise thebladein ¥ incrementsandl run both edges through the saw a second time. Continue raising, the blade in you'vecompleted the cut. Dealing with Wide Boards. If the stockis wider than the capacity of your table saw (about 6° for ‘most saws), you can use a hand sav to complete the cut. A rip saw ‘works best for this. #& ure 1), YW" inerements until Whenever you resaw thin stock on the table saw, ifs a good idea to use a zero- clearance insert with aspliter, ike the one shown at right or an afier-markot model like the Micro jig spiter on page 47. ‘The insert prevents the workpiece from slipping down between the blade land the opening. And the spliter keeps the wood from “pinching” the back of the saw bladeand kicking backat you. | make my inserts out of MDE, but ply- wooct works ust as well. To ensue good ‘www ShopNotes.com fit, use the insert that came with your saw ‘aga template forlaying cut thenew one. ‘Once you have the insert sized to fit your saw, all that’s left to dois cut a kerf to match the position of the saw blade. Thea, you can glue in a splitter made from a piece of @" haniboard. Finally, its important for the insert to be level with the top of the saw table. Ir ‘you need to raise the insert slighty, you ‘can installa set of flathead screws under neath to actas adjustable fet. ga svnsats — apes iNerrr NEE OR INBEET mn ae te 4storage sol Modular Workstati Whether you build one or all three, these simple projects are a great way to keep your shop more organized. BE | Who couldnt use extra storage in their shop or garage? The challenge is coming up with a solution that works for the space you have. ‘That's whore the trio of projects you seehere comesin. Individually, the wall cabinot, Work table, and roll-around cart ‘offer some versatile options for keeping your woodwerking tools, Inarcware, or car care supplies dese fat hand. But if you build all three, they 6 together as an allinvone storagecenter that doesnt take up a lot ofspace photos at ght) All the projects feature straight- forward joinery and plyweod con- struction so you can build them in a short amount of time. Another ‘great feattue is the unique drawer ‘guide systom. There's no expensive hhaniware to buy here just a simple, shop-built solution, 6 ‘ShopNotes No. 83Exploded View Details OVERALL DIMENSIONS: (SEE MARGIN AT RIGHT) onyCENTER a FiouRE PANEL cde Os) FRONT VIEW ) (_FRONT VIEW ag C.SIDE VIEW See Mh building the Wall Cabinet ‘One of the things that Ilike about slides here. This simple cabinet thie wall cabinet is that it packs a uses a unique guide system and lot of storage without taking up drawer construction to make sure much space. With all the drawers the drawers will work smoathly and shelves, you're sure to Keep for years. But more on this later. things organized and easy to find. Building the Cabinet. I began Speaking of the drawers, you building the wallcabinet by cutting, ‘won't find any expensive drawer the case sides to size. All the joinery’ ap atv Woot MADE FEO unnco0, CHEATS Ae Sernick HAROMOCD Positioning G For the drawers to be level and operate smoothly, the aluminum channel guides need to be located acci- rately. To do this, Lused plywood spacers, as shown in the drawing at left. To use them, start by installing the bottom guide flush withthe rabbet on the end of the case side, (For the drawer divider, you'll need to first Gov mark the piece when it’s @ fitinto thedado in the case bottom) Then [cut a spacer to position the middle drawer channel. After installing all "ena for this piece can be cut at the table saw with a dado blade. You'll find all the details in Figures La and 1b. While at the table saw, T switched to a regular blade and cut a groovernoar the backedge tohold 2 1A hardboard back. This inset ‘groove holds theback and creates a space for a tworpart Ckeet that ‘you'll build later. I's used to hang the cabinet on the wal Next upare the top, botiom, and divider panels. A series of dadoes are cut in these parts to hold a center panel and drewer divieeer With the joinery wrapped up, there are just a couple of details to complete before the cabinet can be assembled. The fist thing to do is drilla set of shelf pin holes. Theother detail isto insall some aluminum channels to act as drawer guides. The box at left shows you how it’s dene. Cleats. That takes care of the cabinet construction. But before moving on to the doors and ShopNotes No. 88Pn gg wecRewWs ("Ieee Boxoeront BACKS. OS 6) SMALL | ORAWER, FALGE FRONTS | EAS, other is attached to the wall. (Be solutio cleats interlock to keep the cabinet in place, as shown in Figure le, Doors and Shelves. Now that NI the case is complete, you can fit it ‘The sides have a tongue cut to fit the dado in the bottom and a rabbet cut on each end. These are sized to hold the drawer front and back, as shown in Figure 2b, The front and Se best tot te davrer in, (CL_ODEMEW “ Andsincethejoinery willbe under | JN) Lance Denwer gsareh, alot of strossI added afew screws FRONTIBACK forextra suength “The last drawer parts to add are drawers, there’s one more thing «9 forms the nurwers that slide in the the false fronts. To attach ther, fit add. To make i easy to hang the aluminum guides in the cabinet. the drawers in position and sed cabinet on the wall, [used a The trick here is to keep the carpet tape to hold the fronts in beveled cleat system. One cleat is drawer sides, front, and back place and set the gaps. Then they screwed 10 the cabinet and the square to the bottom. The simple canbe screwed in place. 2 pair of dadoes in the All that’ lft is to attach edging, sure to serew into the studs) The drawer bottom that register the to the bottom of the ease. It brings bevels on the mating edges of the sides and keep the box square. _the ase flush with the false fronts, % (a. FRONT VIEW jo-Mortise Pin Hinges ‘out with adjustable shelves, doors, These unique-Jooking hinges allow the cab- holes on the hinge leaf. Then adjust the eab- anddrawers. The shelves are about inet doors to open wide and get at everything inet side of the hinge so the door is fush with as simple as they come. Just cut inside, Bast of all, they’re adjustable, which the cabinet top. After fine-tuning the fit and them tosize and set them in place. _ makes hanging the doors pretty simple. ‘gaps, you can fic the hinges in place with the ‘The doors are just as straightior- ‘To install them, start by screwing both of _fwo remaining screws wand. The only difference is that the hinges to the front edge of the cab- you'll need to add some handles inet. Since T wanted the dooes flush and hinges. The hinges I used are _with the top of the case, the hinges are lunique and you can learn more positioned above the cabinet top. The about them in the boxat right bottom hinges are flush with the cab- Drawers. You'll notice that the inet bottom Figure 2d above). Use the drawers for thiscebinetaren’tyour vo, vertical-slotted holes to do this. (typical drawers. The bottom acts as But don’t tighten them down just yet. 1 platform that the rest ofthe parts Next, you can attach the door to the are added to. The botiom also hinges using the horizontal-slotted wwwShopNotes.comwall-mounted Work Table “Too often, my workbench isso clut- tered that there isn’t room to do anything, Even finding a place to trim a partto fit witha block plane, as you see in the photo above, can bbe hard to da. This ensy-to-build work table is perfect for the job. I's een ‘a. FRONT VIEW) - EY orescur ae Beeeeie._| 20 daar AN Bax Shee ae Boo also a great spot to pull up a stool and skatch out some ideas, or lay ‘out my plans without having to take up valuable bench space, Below the table, 2 pair of handy drawers can hold a pad of paper, pencils, and drafting supplies susror Sy Gere ies eR OR” angles a Stopeloceg)) 42-490 Hardware : a 16334" Fh Woodscrews See, * (3) W-20 x 1A" Carnage Bolts —— TB ltesia Paste knots {alr bi. urtre Glide se ayy suse e209 nosevauy safer (Ee PRsE 83) j ‘> ff ‘A Through Hole fal you need to do ‘Scut completely tough a workviece, you can start at the final size and cut through in usta few passes. enopinces rece _ PEM ime \WPite ior bene voce SECTION VIEW (END VIEW) wwwShopNotes.com 33building the Base | ‘As I mentioned, there really isn’t that much to making this circle jg ‘Once you have the lazy Susan (margin photo) and ether materials an hand, an aftemoon is about all ‘you'll need to build the ig, ‘Start with the Plates. Besides the lazy Susan, the set of three plates you see in Figure 1 are the other major parss you'll need. ach plate starts out as a square piece of plyweod. Then, you'll need to complete some additional work on each one to customize thy plate. You can read more about what you'll need to don each ofthe plates by checking out the box below. Assembling the Jig. Once you have the plates complete, you're ready to stast assembling the jig, ‘The first step is to screw the lazy Susan in place. This is really just fa matter of centering it on the baseplate. To make this easy to do, I drew a couple layout lines across the corners of the base- | A Lazy Susan. The key to how well this circle jig works is enocinary lazy Susan that allows the router to rotate. plate, as illustrated in Figure 2 on the opposite page. ‘To provide a litle extra support for the center plate that goos on next, I added 2 set of fumiture glides to the baseplate. They're simply tapped in place with e hammer, Note: You'll need to “snip” the nails shorter so they don’t extend through the bottom of the baseplate, And a washer under each glide helps ensure the top of the ‘glide is even with the lazy Susan like you seein Figure 22. With the glides in place, you're ready to screw the center plate in place. Since you won't be able to install the carriage bolt used with Making the Plates ‘The nice thing abouttthe plates that _make up this gis they all start out as 12"-square pieces of 14" ply- wood, like you see in the drawings at night. ‘Then, to provide clearance for the bit, you'll need to cut a centered hole in each one. (I used a circle- cutter in my drill press to do this) ‘Once you've completed the holes, you can tum your otfention to the ‘slots that make the jig adjustable. At Teft, you can see how I did this on my duill press with a plywood base and pivot pin. Start by using carpet tape to attach the base so the distance from the pin to the bit matches the radius you're looking for After drilling a ‘series of overlapping holes to form ‘each slot, sand the edges of the slot smooth. Then, all that’s left to do is shape the router plate and roundl all the outside comers on each plate. ‘ShopNotes No. 83the stop block once the center plate is screwed down, make sure to slip the bolt in place first. Then just screw the center plate down using. the access hole in the baseplate, as iMlastrated in Figure 2a ‘Mounting the Router. The next step is to add your router to the router plate. This isjusta matter of locating a set of mounting holes for your router to center the router bit in the opening and then screwing the router in place. Finally, you can install the remaining bvo carriage bolts in the center plate, slip the router plate over the top of the bolts, and then lock everything down with a pair of knobs and a couple washers. Adding the Stop Block. At this point, you could start using the circle jig But there’s one last thing { addled to make routing cr- cles oF identical size easy. ‘And that’s 2 stop block. “The stop block you see in Figure 2 is nothing more than a small plywood block with a hole drilled in it. Slipped over the car- Fagg bolt you installed earlier. you can lock tin place with a knob and washer. As you swing the router Me te A Baseplato. Aftor cutting a square baseplate, cutout ie large center hol. Then you can aril an accoss hole for instaling the screws for ine lazy Susan andi round the outside corners. wwwShopNotes.com Nore: eu ‘CENTER PLATE lp woRcPeces (Nami oe BREESE Eset Se Sees Eu: roar plate out to change the size of the iscle you're routing, the router plate will stop against the block. This limits the size of the cirele— making it easy to repeat that same size circle any number of times. ‘Once the stop block is in place, ‘you're ready to start using the jig to rout a recess or hole. To do this, you'll need tosecute the workpiece ‘and jig while you work. You'll find ‘more about this on the next page. A. Conter Plate, The center plate starts out just like the baseplate with a ‘contered hole, But nstoad of anacoses hoe, cut a slot in one comer so you ‘can acid an adjustable stop blook later 4A Router Plate. Aer cuting an opening to match the base of your router, Cut a slot near one corner to alow you to adjust he ig forcrcies cf afferent sizes. Then complete the shaping of the plate. 35securing the work & Using the Jig Although the jg is complete at this point, thor's a little more work to dobefore using i. And that's tofind a way to securely hold the work- plece and jig while routing a hole. Securing the Workpiece & Jig, Depending on the size of your project, there are a couple different Nove: ‘ways you can go about securing uerorr NOTES rouo the workpiece and jig. CBee oe In most cases, the “eee cess or hole Teed Creo to make is in a workpiece 12” wide or tess, So the holding assembly you see in Figure 3 will work just fine. ~ If you need to outa reessor the bottom of the opposite page. WOODSCEEN How It Works. You get 2 good ‘overview of how the holding assembly secures both the work” with the surface pieceand jig by checkingout Figure of the workpiece, 3. And Figures 4 and Sgive you the there are a pair of support delailsof building the assembly. blocks the same thickness as The holding assembly starts out the workpiece you'll be routing. as a long bese and a pair of side These support blocks do double port blocks, you can shift the posi- supports to keep the jig, from duty. Besides supporting the jig, tion of the workpiece, This way, if moving side to side. A set of end the blocks position the workpiece you need to rout a recess or hole ‘caps then traps the jig in place. To side to side under the router. By off-center, ora pair ofholes sideby suppott the base of the jig flush varying the width of the two sup- side, isnota problem. ge 6 a= hole in a larger workpiece, check cout the information in the box on se SECOND: — oars pee nor, BENG faa "gs Bostite coors ESE Mice , aere THEN SIZED TO CENTER Fo cagit annonce WORKPIECE ON ASSEMBLY JIG ‘cathe Mee 36 ‘chy (ste F16-8) ShopNotes No. 88Finally, to keep the woskpiece from moving end to end, there are «couple end blocks. Note: If you have a long workpiece, you an use a single end block to position the workpiece and then simply clamp it in place. The single end block allows you to rout multiple ‘workpieces identically. ROUTING THE RECESS Once you have the holding assembly built, you're ready to rout a circular recess or hole — which isa simple process. Firs, slip the workpiece in place and line it up under the bit. An easy way to do this is to dil @ shallow \p'-dia starter hole end sip the outer bit into the hole (Figure 3a). Note: You may have to adjust the width ofthe support blocks to “fine- ‘une” the position of the workpiece. Alter setting the depth of cut, turn the router on and makean ini- tial plunge cut (Figure 6a). Next, raise the bit, loosen the knob that holds the router plate in position, and then adjust the plate to sncrease the size ofthe hole by 14". Finally retighton the knob, plunge the bit down, anc spin the router clockwise to trim away the waste. ‘At this point, you simply repeat this process, nibbling away at the waste unt you “sneak up” on the size of the circle you want (Figure 6b). IF you need to repeat this size ‘on another workpiece, butt the siop ‘block against the router plate and Jockittin place. This way, the router plate will stop in exactly the same spoton the final pass each time. Routing Through Holes. To rout completely through a work: pce, the procedure is just a litle Using the Circle Jig on Large Workpieces You can use the circle jig to rout a recess or hole in @ large workpiece just as easly. But instead of building a holding assembly for both the workpiece and jg, all you need isa frame to hold the jig in place like the one shown in the drawing at right. ‘The frame is nothing more than a couple long side supports and a pair of 12'-long ‘cross supports. After setting the jig in place 40 is centered over the area you want to rout, camp the supports arcund the jig. ‘The next step is to damp the entire assembly to the workpiece. Once thats complete, the process of routing a recess or holes the same as before. www-ShopNotes.com TENINVE Cwancns ERED ESAT Mrcrer ric.en) different. You'll stil Locate the workpiece 80 i's centered under the bit to stat with, But then instead of removing the waste by working fom thecenter out aust the router plate t postion the bit forthe fal size ofthe hol. ‘Next, set the bit to make a Y4’- deep cut and rout a ceaslar groove in the workpiece. Then just repeat this proces cating a litle deeper each tine untd youve routed com- pletely though the workpiece. & seataraeice NetE Ges exh waa @ Exraas Tovew a videoon Using this adjustable ire ig, gow: ‘ShopNotes.comns Choosing a rete yey New innovations turn LlalisKe(oRSlgle 5 @)\VAla)() h tool ML] There are a lot of tools that 1 actually enjoy using. But to be honest a hacksaw isn’t one of them. That's because no matter how smoothly things seem to be going when T'm using one, before Jong the blade binds right in the middle of the cut and the saw stops dead in its tracks — while my arm wants to keep moving. But I've discovered that using a hacksaw doesn’t have to be such a bone jarring experience. The key is to select the right hac:saw. And that means knowing what to leok for when you buy one. Standard Frame. When itcomes tohacksaws, it relly all boils down to two things — the blade and the hacksaw frame. Let's start by taking, a lookat the frame. Foryears,luced jf ahacksew similar to the one shown in the photo at right. If consists oftwoseparate sections that slide together and lock to allow you to adjust the sire of the frame to hold different lengths of hacksaw blades. But the disadvantage of this two-pioce construction is that you end up with a frame that's not very rigid. So the blade tends to twist and bind as you make a cut Another weak point in the design of this type of hacksaw is, the blade-tersioning system. To tighten the blade, you tum a wing nut at one end of the saw frame. But even with the wing nut tight ened all the way down, you VY Wing matis used fo tncion base 38 can't always tension the blade enough to keep il from wandering, and binding during @ cut. This makes it difficult to keep the saw tracking along a straight ne. High Tension Hacksaws. So, how do you solve these problems? The answer is a high-tonsion hacksaw like the oneshown on the ‘opposite page. At first glance, it ‘may not look like there’s much dif- ference between the two types of frames, But using a high-tension, hacksaw i ike driving a sportscar. Unlike ordinary hacksaws, a high-iension hacksaw has a solid frame. This rigid, one-piece con- struction prevents the blade from twisting and binding during the cut. But more importantly, these hacksaws allow you to apply a lot more tension to the blade (up to 30,000 psi). ‘The extra tension keeps the blade cutting smoothly along a straight line. Crank Up the Tension. Ten- sioning the blade on a high-tension hacksaw differs slightly from saw tosaw, depending on the manuac- turer, But mest of them use some sort of leversightening. system. You simply release a lever, turn a knob to inerease the tension, and then fig the lever beck into posi- tion to tension the blade (see detail photo on top of opposite page). It's a lot easier on your fingers than trying to tighten a wing nat, ‘Two-piece frame can be ‘adjusted for diferent bade lengths Pinger Buster. 1 Piension the biade on this saw, you nave «. [0 tighten a ng mut z= 2 ec ShopNotes No. 83And speaking of comfort, most of the high-tension hacksaws also have an ergonomic handle design that makes using them less of a strain on your hand and wrist. Several of these sews also incorpe- ratea “hom’ orasecond grip atthe front end of the saw for two- handed operation. Flush Cutting. Another feature is that mostof these hacksaws also ~< Lever Release. To Grip at front of saw remove or installa blade, allows for two-handed oa all you have to do is fio a quick roloase lover Tension adjusting mn acfusting allow you to mount the blade at a 45° angle, as shown in the photo in the upper right. This gives you ‘move clearance witen making flush cuts against a wall o- flat surface ‘The only downside is thet these hacksaws are nor-adjustable, 50 they only take 12" blades. The best thing about high- tension hacksews is, that they don’t really cost that much more Good, Better, & Best: Hacksaw Blades Having the right hacksaw frame 1s really only half the battle. Picking the right blade for your hhacksavy is just as important. And tho uth is, not all hacksaw blades are created equal. You'l find three main types of hacksaw blades. The least exper- sive of the thrwe are the standard, carbon-steel blades. These are good for cutting non-ferrous metals like aluminum and brass, They will work on mild ste, but they don’t hold up as long as the other two types of blades ost ofthe time, I prefer to use \S high-speed steol blades. Since these blades are harder, the tee stand up better to most cutting ‘www ShopNotes.com tacks, particularly when working with steel. They cost a litte bit ‘more than carbon stee! blades, but they last longer to. One problem with high-speed steels thatit’s sohard and brittle, the blade can snap and break in Pieces if it binds. So for this reason, you might want to switch to bi-metal blades. These blades have 2 high-speed stool edge thasjoined toa softer steel back. This way you got the benofit of high speed steel with a lot less chance for blade breakage ‘So, how can you tell what kind ofblade you're buying? Most ofthe time they're marked — either on the package or on the actual blade. than a standard hacksaw. You can find them for around $25 to $20, (Gee pageSl forsources) And after using one, I have to say they are worth every penay. Blades. But even the best acksaw frame won't do you much good without the right Incksaw blade. For more on choosing a hacksaw blade, take a ook at the box below. Fre A Blade Mount. Each end of the blade fits over a fred pin. A second pair of pins allows ‘you 19 mount the ‘blade at 90° or 45° < Fush Cutting ‘Mounting the blade ata 45? ange allons you to make flush cuts with ease. ‘High-speed steel ‘and bi-vretal blades ae \ypicaly labelled on the blade.Good shop lighting makes = for accurate work without straining your eyes. . or me, good lighting is one of the ‘ost important iolé in my shop Te helps you avoid eye strain and makes iteasierto work more accu- rately. Even more. importantly 00d lighting: makes working in Troubleshooting ei SS Tube blinks on and off LARA} rrotorenses tubo Mr sell ~ Wil need to replace the tube soon JETS * Needs new starter lf fisture has one) = Roplace ballast * Cold - Wit come on after a few minutes Pi LESS ball « Noed new starter RD «Tighten at fixture screws SS « Replace the balast if tightening screws doesn't solve the problem 40 the<-shop a whole lot safer. To. geal these benefits, there afea few things you'll need to consider The first of these is selecting the best light source to use, FLUORESCENT L For most woodworker, fluores cent fixtures are a common choice. “They're telatively easy to instal, inexpensive to operate, and pro- ide good light over asizable area However, some of the draw: backs to this type of lighting are that the lights can sometimes be slow to start, make a humming noise; or flicker a bit. But most of these problems can be solved with a few simple steps. The box at left can help you troubleshoot some of these common problems. But even the best fluorescent system can’t give you the light you need if i¥s not able to focus the light cometly.So you'll want to be sure you use the right fixture Brighten the Shop. Choosing a fixture that’s best suited to your HTS. ‘A. FIETURE 70 BENCH DISTANCE, B. WALL SPACING: DIVIDE FIXTURE TO BENCH BY THREE. G LIGHT SPACING: MULTIPLY FIXTURE TO BENCH DISTANCE BY 11, needshasa lot to de with the room you're working in So the frst thing you'll need to do is take a good look at your work area. T always try to make sure the light falls onto my work area and doesn't get absorbed by the walls, ceiling, and other materials in the shop. The best way to do this is to have a flat surface behind the fix- ture and then paint the surface a light color, preferably white. You'll also find painting the walls a light color improves the lighting. Reflectors. Ivs always tempting to buy the inexpensive fixtures without reflectors, like in the inset photo on the next page. These kind of fixtures rely on the cviling to reflect the light back down. So the only time you'll want to use this ShopNotes No. 83type of fixture is when your evling, is flatand light ineolor. In my shop, I have an open ceiling with exposed joists. So I chose’ to use a fixture that has refleciors, like the one you see in the top photo at right. These reflec tors bounce the light down toward the work surface. You'll also want to use these fixtures if your eviling, surface is dark or the fixtures are suspended from the ceiling. ‘LOCATING THE LIGHT If your workbench is against the wall, ifs always a good idea to try to position the fixture dlirecily over worksurface. That way the light is not behind you causing shadows. Distance From The Wall. ‘There's a simple rule of thumb T Tike to use for loeating a fixture over a workbench. And it requires taking only one measurement. | just measure the distance from my benchtep to the fixture (ee ilustra- tion on opposite page). Then T simply divide that distance by three (M4 the distance). This telsme how far away from the wall to mount the fixture ‘The ceiling in my shop is eight feet high and the distance from my bench tothe fixture is five fet. So I ‘mounted the fixture on the ceilinga distance of 20" eway from the wall. Choose the Rig Ballast One thing you'l find about fluores: cent lights that differs from other types of lighting is they require a ballast to operate. The ballast is located in the fixture (photo at right). It provides both a high voltage jolt to start the lamp and the low voltage stream needed for normal operation. You'll wantto be sue you have the right ballast for tho temperature in your shop. ‘So, when you choose a fluores- cont lighting system, make sur ‘you check thestarting temperature ‘of the ballast. IFthe temperature in www ShopNotes.com. ‘More Than One Fixture. In most shops, one fixture won't be enough to supply adequate light. You'll need to install a numberof fintures to evenly light the space. So the next thing you'll need to determine is the farthest distance you can space the fixtures apart. How Far Apart? Again, | return to my initial measurement of the ‘workbench to the fixture. Then you can simply multply that distance by 1% to find the maximum dis- tance to leave betiveen fixtures. That means ifthe distance from the workbench to the fixture is five feet, the farthest apart my fixtures could bes 7% foot Sx 114 = 7). If possible, (ike to place them a litte closer together because this lights the room even better. I also ty 10 line up the fixtures so they run the Tength ofthe entire room. Now that you know how far apart to space them, it's easy 10 figure out how many rows of fixe tures you'llneed tocover the room. Just determine the number ofaddi- tional fixtures you'll need in each row: You'll find fluorescent fixtures come in 4 & 8 lengths.and they're designed to be wired together ina series, So it’s easy to put togethera long string of light fixtures. ‘There’s one final thing you'll reed to think about if you're going, ht ‘your work area is likely to drop below 50°, you'll want to use fixe ‘tures with ballasts that start at these lower temperatures. This i5 easy to determine, You'll find the imum slarting temperature and other information printed directly on the ballast, ‘This information will also tell you whether the ballast is a mag- netic or electronic type. Electronic ballasts are alittle bit more expen- sive but they tend to flicker less, run somewhat quieter, nd work at lower temperatures. to be using fluorescent lighting. And that’s to make sure the fixture you'r using is also right for the envison- rmentthatexistsin your workshop. This means making sure you get the right ballast. The box below has the information needed to help you with this. As youcansee, properly lighting ‘your shop requires the same kind of preparation and setup as installing a new power tool. You'll ‘want the right fixture positioned in the just the right place, You'll find the noise rating printed on the ballast as well. A rating system of A, B, or Cis most ‘commonly used with “A” offering, the quietest operation. al ‘A Strip Fixture. A fixture without reflectors depends onthe surface directly above it to reflect the ight.Its a simple, start-to-inish job on the table saw. | Nothing tops offatall cabinet, book- case, oF display case quite like a wide, graceful cove molding, The wall cabinet, shown in the margin photo below, is a great example. But the problem I'll often run intois that lange cove moldings are only available in a few stock sizes and types of wood. So if you want toadd this detail toa projec, there are two choices. You can either design the project to fit the avail SECTION VIEW )| able cove molding, or better yet, seieomaouc. || takethe time to make your own wercenerr|| To dothis,Iturn to the table saw. Using @ shop-tosted technique, T make custom cove molding that fits my project perfect. How it Works. Now making a rounded cove cut on the table saw may sound a bit odd. But if you takea look at the drawings at right, ‘you'll see how it works, ‘The idea is that the PF workpiece is fed across the blade at an angle to “scoop out” the cove profile. ‘When yrs squat down and look at a table saw blede J straight on from the front of the savy, all you see is a thin 2 outline of the thickness of the blade. As you move slightly to one side, the profile of the blade takes fon a narrow rounded or “cove” shape, as in the left drawings. Move further to the side and you ‘see more of the profile of the blade and the “cove” becomes. wider (right drawings). So by simply changing the feed angle of the workpiece (and the height of the saw blade), you control the size and shape of the covecut. ‘The Steps. Making the cove cut is the unique part of the process, but its just one of the steps. The Section View in the left margin shows the final goal. In a nutshell, you want to start by creating the basic design of the cove. Then you can set up the table saw and make the cove cut in your workpieces. The bevel cuts that give the ‘molding. its “angled” profile come next. And finally, smoothing the cove cut wraps things up. ‘The Layout. I always start the Job by getting out 2 pencil and paper to draw a full-scale patiom Of the orofile I want to make. Then, SS ShopNotes No. 83| transfer the patlem to the end of ‘one blank to use as a reference. CUTTING THE COVE With your workpieces ready to go, yyoucanstart seting up the table saw forthecovecut. As you can seein the ‘main photoat left this is done with theaid oftwo angled fences —one clamped in front of the blade and cone behind it: To form the cove, the ‘workpiece is fed between the 160 fences and across the saw blade in ‘multiple shallow passes. “Two Parts. Thereare two aspects Of the setup that will control the final shape of your cove cut. The first is easy. The depth of the cove ‘cut (measured from your layout) will simply be the Same a5 the height of the saw blade on your final pass. (You'll actuelly want to ‘make the final pass a hair shallow toallow forsmoothing the cut.) ‘The Right Angle. The trickier part of the setup is positioning the fences at the correct angle. AS I ‘mentioned before, the width ofthe cove cut depends upen the angle at which the workpiece passes over the saw blade. So the question is, hhow do you find this feed angle? My answer is to use a simple jig made from fourstrips of wood and Finding the Ang! handful of hardware (show in the box at the otiom ofthe page). Set the Fences. Once you've used the jig. to mark the feed angle on the saw table, the next step is to set the fences. 1 ‘start with the front fence. ‘As you see in the photo aleft thecove cut doesn't 0 to the edges of the workpiece. So you're not going to set the fence right on the pencil line you made tor mark the angle. To get the cove “centered” in the workpiece, the front. fence needs to be offset from the line, as shown in the drawing above. ‘You can measure this offset from the workpiece and then position the front fence to comespond, And with the front fence clamped in place, sandwich the workpiece between the two fences and clamp therear fencedown. Making the Cut. Once the fences are positioned, cutting the cove profile is pretty routine. Raise the sew blade about ¥/e" above the table for the frst pass. Then, use a couple of push blocks to slowly feed the blank across the blade. You shouldnt feel much resistance. If le: A Foolproof Method When it comes to finding the cor- rect fance angle for a cove cut, the adjustable jig, shown at right, can’t be beat: It takes all the guesswork ‘out of setting up the fences. ‘As you ean see, the jg is simply two short pieces of stock and two longer pisces fastened at the Release Hole. Dill 2 hole in the throat plate 80 you can release the ‘spitter with a pencil 46 taken off the saw, they are usually ‘novor put back on ‘The good news is there ae sev- eral high-quality, rmplacement spliters available. Besides being easy to install, they pop on and off Your sai injusta few seconds. What a Splitter Does. Belore coking a specific splitters ithelps to know just what a splitter dees. The main job of a splitter is safety. When rip- ping, it prevents see the Kerf from losing up anal binding on the + Blade, which can cause kickback. Using a 5 ‘an aso improve the quality of cut by keeping the workpiece from coming in contact with the back of the blade, you'll have less burning and fewor saw marks to remove ‘Three Models Tcoked at three aiteemarict spliters that are ll easy to use. Two of them, the Merlin and Biesereyer look similar to thestockspliters—just without the blade guard. (Note: For the sefest cuts, you should use a separ rate blade guard with these spit ters) The third one, the Micro spliter, takes a different appreach (box on the opposite page). To find coathere to got each of these spit ters, tum to page ‘SPLITTER FEATURES ‘As mentioned before, what really sets the Besemeyer and Merlin apart is the ability to install and remove them in a few seconds. The key 10 doing that isa quick-release mech- anism located inside the saw. Push-Button Release. On the Merlin, the splitter is released by simply pushing a button. The makers of the Merlix recommend dirilinga hole inthe insert plate so that you can push thebutton witha pencil and then liftoff the splitter. ‘You can soe how this woels in the first inset photo shown at let. Reattaching the Merlin is also a snap. You hook the back enc in first, Then, lower the front into the slot in the insert plate. This two- point connection system keeps the Jong spitter rigid. “Easy On. Cilp the spitter in the reat mount and rock it forward until it “clicks” into place. ShopNotes No. &3 VYSingle-Point Attachment. On ‘he other hand, the Biesemeyer has a simpler, single-point attachment. ‘You install it by slipping it through the insert plate unlit “clicks.” To remove the Biesemayer splitter, you need to remove the insert plate and pull a small, spring-loaded knob (inset proto at right). Depending on the saw, you may need to lower the blade as well. Both systems work well, but being able to remove the Merlin splitter without reaching inside the savy isa lot more convenient There's one more thing to note here, The quick release mecha nismsare mounted tothe saw with the same holes used for the stock dat won'tcateh. and Bleserneyer looks Uke a sharpened knife blade. The leading edge is tapered. 30 a workpiece ‘The Merlin has a ‘much longer profile. This keeps the work: piece from twisting away from the fence spoiling the accuracy ofthe cut, Its hard to say ‘wich style is beties. If properly set up, you should’ really even notice that a splitter is there. And once aligned, splitter and guard. So you'll need both splitters worked great. extra set of pawls to topurchase a splitter that’s made to. Anti-Kiekbaek Pawls. The final handlo thick stock. I fit your spedifc able saw. feature of these after-market split- founc this setup to bea Splitter Aside from the quick- release feature, another advantege ‘of the Merin and Biecemeyeris that they are made from thick steel thats less Likely to flex. And the shape of the spliters is unique as ‘wall. The difference between these two splitters is pretty obvious, The Keep it Simple: Micro Jig Right off the bat, you'll notice the Micro fig Mj splitter is completely different from the two shown above, as ‘you can see in the photos at right. The first differences the size. While the other splitters are large and made from stel, the MJ isjust a short plastic fin. ‘Youcanaiso see that it snaps into three holes crilled ina zero-clearance insert plate. (A drilling guide is pro- YYided.) This universal design means that this splitter will work on just about every saw. Featherboard Effect. The MJ splitter does have one feature thatthe others don't. In addition to preventing, the kerf from closing up behind the saw, it has ¢ built ‘wirwShopNotes.com ters to look at are the anti-kickbacke pawls, Like the splitter itself the pawls are thicker and more rigid than those on stock splitters. The pawlson the Biesemeyer splitter can. accommodate most stock sizes with tooth that nan neaely the entire length of each pave litter easier to work with and less likely to leave marks. Price. If there is a drawback to these spitors, isthe cost. oth the Biesomeyer and the Merlin cost more than $100. Butconsidering justhow easy they are to use, you may just find they’te well worth it. ere ee Sy em in “featherboard effect” that keeps. the work: Piece from wandering, away from the fence (drawing below). The Dring guide finisslightiy offset from ‘or instaling the centerline. This epittsrs against the rip fence. ‘The splitter comes with two fins that give you four different pressure settings ‘to adjust how much ofa featherboard effect you want. About the only downside of the Mj is that it will only work on 90" cuts. Since it's fixed to the insert plate ‘and not to the saws arbortilting mechanism, you'll need to remove the splitter for bevel cuts. Finally, the cost of the Micro Jig splitter matches its size. Youcan find it for about $20. (For sources, turn to page SL.) That's a small price to pay to edd a huge safety feature to your table saw. a A Quick Please. ‘Atug on the knod is allit takes to release tne spliter. A Variable Sizes, “Plus® sions on each side of the ‘spltter fins indicate the strength of the featnerboard ettect.Ua Garage Heavy-duty, % thick rubbor mat my 7 Ribbed, Ye"thick ‘sponge mat with tapered edgo to reduce tripping Diernonc-tread, %"- thick sponge mat Embossed vinyl, y¥%-thick spong back mat Diamond-tread, —%a"-thick vinyl spongeback add comfort with Enjoy working on a concrete floor. All you need is an Percipie ciel cusa le ‘There's nothing like spencing a nice long weekend in the shop, But if your shop floor isa cold, hard slab of concrete like mine, you probably end up with more than a finished project — like sore feet and legs, along with an aching back. Let's face it Concrete is ahard and unforgiving surface Whats the Solution? Working on a con- ‘rete floor might scem like something you just haveto“tough out.” You can’teasily earitout ‘or cover itall with a “softer” surface But there's a quick and easy solution —an anti-fatigue mat like the ones you see on this page. (For sources, see page 51.) These inex- pensive mats are designed to place a barrior between you and the floor to reduce the Jaled with working on concrote. fatigue ‘A World of Choices. The metsshown here justa few of thedozens available. $o you'll want to be sure to keep in mind a few things before you add one (or two) to your shop. (MAT MATERIAL The first thing youll need t is between a solid rubber mat or a mat made from a spongetike material. Rubber Mats. Solid rubber mats are very comunon (top a). They're heavy-duty, so they'll take a lot of abuse. (Often made from recycled tires, rubber mats provide a cushioned surface that’s impact ant. So a dropped chisel or tool won't do much damage — to the mat or the tool. ists finishes that might get spilled onit. ‘Sponge Mais, You'll also find mats made cf a sponge-like (foam) material (the second and thied mats at eft). Asponge mat provi ‘more cushion than a ruboer mat, but it does Ihave one problem, it doesn't wear as well To solve this problem, many manufac- turers make a combination version called a spongeback mat (lower two mats in margin). Hee, a top layer of vinylor nibber is bonded to the foam undemeath. While still provid hion, these mats aro more dural ‘And its why like them best. While the type of material the mat is mad from is important, you'll also need to con- Sidar the size of the mat, its thickness, and even the texture on the surface. decide photo in may ‘ShopNotes No. £3\ Sizing a Mat. Getting as large a mat as possible seems like a good idea. This way, you could cover as much of the concrete floor as pos- sible. But bigger isnt always better. ‘At roughly $2 to $4a square foot, covering a large area would be costly — assuming you could find a mat large enough. And second, covering an entire shop with a “soit” material makes moving tools and equipment around the shop just about impossible The best thing to do is size the ‘mat (or mats) to cover the areas where you stand and work the ‘most. For me, thet’s at the front of any table saw and workbench like the mats o extend about 1’ to each side and behind the area [work in. In most cases, a 3°x 4’ mat is just about the right size. ‘There are times whena standard- size mat just won't fit the area you have towork in. solution to thats to ereate a cusiom mat. For thet, check out the box at right. How Thick? Another considee- ation is the thickness of the mat. Just like the overall sizo,a thicker mat isn talways beter. Sure, a thicker mat will have ‘more “cush,” but it can actually increase fatigue and be a hazard. ‘Why? thicker matmakes you fee! less stable, so you end up swaying, and shifting your feet more often 2 you work. And the extra thickness fsa tripping hazard. re ee Tee ee eae ered Dr-Dek Tie (i2"x 12) Tapered edging Mats34" Te = < Custom to 56" thick Seema : Mating. vith will provide SPD just tree differen fenough comfort Pieces, you can yet minimize the \@ Comer customize your ant- possibility of tripping piece fatigue mat to any Many manufacturer's taper size or shape area. the edges as well to reduce the nie Teme Seves te ~— Customized Mats: Cone ee eles ae Sacmpereraees DYi-Dek Tiles aeener rear Be ou saa teenun eller areioe See ee insulation. But if you expect to legs that absorb the shock of walking on a concrete spend a lot of time working in the floor, see photo at Soe a eee might want to take a look at the in the main photo on Footwarner shop mat shown below. the opposite page, the ers rs eer aoe Se ee eae 16x36) works best at a bench, like grid allows sawdust ‘you seein the photo below. & and chips to fall right saree rolling back the mat pins and tabs secure the tiles Se eas Sovees bees Se co off the floor about 14". To provide a smooth transi- snap on tapered edge strips and comer pieces (top TM J 12different colors, sa it’s an easy way toadd alittle wwwShopNates.com pizazz.to your shop as well Theonly real downside to Dri-Dekis thecost. The files run a little under $4 apiece, with the edging (52) and comers (SI) just a bit less. S0.a3'x4 mat with edging and comers strips will cost about $72 {about $25 more than a similar rubber oc sponge mat). For sources, refer to page 51 49 4> perfect planing on or Cre ca Shit (' Stock re i a | Like most woodworkers, its hard for me to toss out any typo of “scrap” — especially a small piece My planer manual | with interesting figure or grain. recommenils not planing anything less than 12” long. Is there any way to thin down The problem is making the best use of the piece that you have usually means using it on a small project. And for that, you often need to plane the piece down a bit thinner. askortboard | — Bat you can't just run a short withouthaving to | board through your thickness plaxe it by hand? | planer. Most planers recommend a minimum length that you can plane safely. (Usually about 12") ‘The Problem. Ifyou try t plane anything shorter than what's rec- commended, you run the risk ofthe workpiece getting caught between the infoed and outfeed rollews. This can cause itto itt off the planer bed. snipe (a deeper cut near the end of board), At worst, the board can get chewed up, damaging the cuter { head and planer in the proces. John Witson Austin, TX ( see 7 tee toe ee |e) woe WERE RR snre / @ a | gm: py She ae / | e eeipes oe vale Phces Soe tS worse ee / THIcKNESE OF TOP VIEW A SHORT BOARD i Adding Support. But ther is a solution to this problem — and that’s to provide a little extra sup- port for the workpiece. To do this, I glue longer, narrow scrap pieces to Doth edges of the short board, as illustrated in the drawing above. ‘These support pieces will span both feed rollers, so the workpiece slays flat on the bed of the planer like you see in the drawing at lett When you gluethe supports in place, keep in mind that they need to be at least the same thickness as. the VIEW SeenON) aerwene - workpiece (lightly thicker is okay). And be sure they're glued flush with either tho top or bottom face inate the Snipe. With this technique, you end up with a planed surface that’s mirror smooth, And if your planer has a tendency to snipe, it ends up om the support pieces instead of your workpiece like you see in the drawing above. Once you have the board planed to the thickness you ‘want, all you have to do is cut off the narrow support pieces. (One last thing, You can use this same technique to eliminate snipe rno matter how long the workpiece is. This way, none of the workpiece will goto waste. ShopNotes No. 83Sources COVE BITS: The three styles of cove bits cov- cred in the article on page 8 are available from most woodworking stores as well as the sources listed in the margin, Some home centers ray also carry the basic cove bit. The particular cove bits we fea~ tured aro made by Freud. Other ‘manufacturers and the Woodsmitit Store carry similar cove bits, You'll find the most useful sizes are the WW, and Ys" radius bits, ‘SHOP VACUUM UPGRADES The article on page 12 features a number of accessories you can buy toupgrede yourshop vacuum. You should be able to find most of the accessories at ary home center ‘The only ones you might have trouble locating are the heavy duty, flexible hose and the filters. The 12+Hong hose (12F0L01) is available from Lee Valley. They also have a 24-long hose (12F0L02) if youneed an even longer reach. As forthe filters, the mergia lists a couple of sources for the ChanStean models MODULAR WORKSTATION To build the three pieces of the nodular workstation on page 16, you'll need a variety of hardware. The aluminum channel, screws, and finish washers ean be picked up at just about any hardware store orhome center The rst of the hardware is avail- able from the Wnismith Stor and Rockler. The pari (and model num- bors) youl need are: pin hinges (29858), 3° wire pulls (39875), 6 wire pulls (41121), shelf pins (63860), 3° swivel casters (31883), and 3' locking casters (3180). MARKING KNIFE (Other than the blade itself all the hardware for the marking knife came from a local hardware store ‘The Yu"-wide, sight (01041 08) and left ((1.042.08) bevel blades we used are available from Japan Woadworker (see margin). Just be ssure you have the blades in hand before you cut the grooves in the handle to size. Blade widths can vary slightly, 99 if you have the blade before you start you can cut the groove to fit perfectly. ROUTER CIRCLE JIG ‘There isn’t much hardware requited for the router civcle jig (page 32). You should be able to find the screws, washers, knobs, and a6’ lazy Susan at a hardware store or home center. TE you have trouble locating a lazy Susen of the 4"-long spiral downcutbit that will give you the best results, check out the margi Both Amana (£6218) and Froud (76-110) make a spiral downcut bit that will work just great HACKSAWS: Just about any home center or hardware store will carry a high- tension hacksaw (page 38) and the blades that go with it, But if you should have trouble finding one, check out MeMaster-Carr and MSC Industral (see margin. ‘TABLE SAW SPLITTERS: A splitter is 2 must for safely rip- ping stock on the table saw. The handy snap-in splitters shown on page 46 are all available from the Woadsmith Store and the sources listed in the margin, ANTI-FATIGUE MATS Anti-fatigue mats are available from at-many hardware stores and home centers. Infact, at many home centers, the matting is on a big roll and you simply pay by the {foot for the length you need. But if you want to choose froma ‘wider variety of malerials, styles, and sizes, or order the Dri-Dek tiles to customize the matting in your shop, check out the sources listed in the marginat ight SOURCES Similar project supplies may be ordered from the following companies: Weodnith tre ‘soot 7008 entenlenorecom cama Gs, ie "is, tb ac Se Pingel Pi Sion Wea oekler soo rota eee on Chanp Catr Cre ‘i, i any, ody Soltis, Sum Sep aon dam in Pl ide Ci Too ‘3009589992 sent ort Pl Seder ‘oman Tols 8008150077 eee Cac Spt Domed ie Freud Tots sooats-tio7 weet Spt Bos ie eid Tot so02530121 someon Ant Puc nt Care MsMastescare 6508850300 ‘atone Hachend Bake te MSC Indus Roowisra70 teementingoen foto tn Le aly soosr1 8158 se eae Cam lary en ig Site sp Vc ose Acme onan Woodworior ‘Boo car 7000 boamenvereroon www.ShopNotes.com ‘As you build your ShopNots Hoary, here’ a way to keep your ‘ssuts organized. Fach binder features durable vinyl covers and tsy-to-read perforated mimbor tags. Snap rings witha quiccopen lever make ten tnvert and veneove ioucs, And there san oxen. pocket inside fr storing nots Each baer olds a full yar (6 ‘Ssus) of thenew, expanded SkepNates, Visit wes. ShopRotes.com to order ‘these binders, o cal 1-800-347-5105. ShopNotes Binder (0.701950-SNB3 (rotis6:ss.0....$12.95 ‘Marking Ke Bledes Micro ig 407.696.6605 vanrlig.com Mere J Spier WL Gove Amocieton (8007586755 ‘lense Fits Drite 800.348 2208 ‘br bek Pn 51CI ce eee Penal a ee ‘shop-made marking knives you see below. Cee een ie ee ae Cee ee mee CO te ee ee meee Med ate ker ae need CO ee eae ee ee Le Mees Ue a eee nor ‘step-by-stop process for making the marking knife. You Ce eel ees ee eS Cee ae So ttsCutting Diagrams Modular Storage Units Materials for WALL CABINET - Sides (2) 10x36-Y Ply J) Small Drawer Sides (3) 1 x9%- Ply. B Top/Bottom/Divider (3) 19x29- % py. K Small Drawer Fr/Bk(8) — Vex12-Vaiy, © center Farel(}) 91 20%- Py. small awe False F(8) 218% - yy, D Drawer Divider (i) 107%. M Laige Drawer Sices 1) 24.2994 -"4 Py. f beck) aona7 Varia N large Drawer F/O (4) 204x12-4hy F Cleats (2) Yax3-284 © Latge Drawer False Ft (2) 3x14 %-YaPly G Shelves (4) 8Y%4 x 1B%- Mi Ply. P Edging tl) Vax %h-30 H eos (2) 18% x27 %e- PY, V Drawer Baser(s) xB MAP. 40° x06" BAD" HEPRNOOD (HALE BFEEN) Page 1 of 3 ShopNotes No. 88 ©2005 August Home Publishing. All rights reserved.Materials for WORK SURFACE ‘A Sides Q) BY BA YP 1 Edging) Yau1-84 RGh B Sub Too (0) Bh x29 Py J DrawerEase(2) 4x 19-1 Py Back(i) 23228 Yay K DrwerSides(a) ax 194-y, D Frame Supports (2) Yas B L Drawer Frone/Back(#) | 24x12-Y ply E Drawer Divider () M32 M Drawer False) x1 Ply, F Cleats @) Vax3-284 N brewer Stops (2), Hayes ‘op (i) 247% x30-% Py, H Hardboard Top) 24%4x30- Haba, \ x « x x ee t t ap x40" rerwoo (aantten ones) Page 2 of 3 ShopNotes No. 88 ©2005 August Home Publishing. All rights reservedMaterials for ROLL-AROUND CART ‘Sider Q) WA x28 Hr sibTep (0) 2642 rly, ® braces(2) Ya3- 29), H Topi) 26%4x22-Yvcbrd © Bottom it) 28x21 Ay, 1 Edging) Wax) TE Reh © divider 0) 20x24 4p J Deore (2) Wart Yarly © tack()) Ish xu-KPy, F shelves (¢) Whxh AP. F a a . © (40 x48" “92° PLYWOOD (HALF SHEET) Page 3 of ShopNotes No. 88 ©2005 August Home Publishing. All rights reserved