.

,


.
:
. .
( ) .
.
UIAA


.
.
:
In this guidebook I try to record the bigger number of routs in the region of Magnesia. New
routs, sectors or mistakes as for example in the difficulty of a route or the person who open a
route it is possible to be found but I ask for your comprehension and your contribution in the
improvement of this guidebook.
Routes: all the routs are equipped with plates and you will need only quickdraws. If at sme
route is needed other type of safety this will be reported. At some routs there is need of better
rele. Becomes effort for their maintenance.
The degree of difficulty is given in most routs in UIAA and less in French
Almost all the routs in the area are secured with plates. This does not mean that rock climbing
is not dangerous. Each climber must judge if he is capable and safe to repeat a route.
: www.volos-city.gr/ecportal.asp
: www.eosvolos.gr
EOT: www.gnto.gr
: www.forecasts.gr

Municipality of Volos

:
:
:
: 24210-38007
:
:

Hospital
Police
Tourist Police
Buses
Railroad
TAXI

Tourist organization
Forecast: www.noa.gr

VI

VII

VIII

IX

.
1
2
3
4
5


- 1
- 2
The temple

1
2
3
4

1
2

- 1
- 2
- 3
- 4

( )

: .
.
. .
( 0) ( .
)
. 0 4 .

. .
- (2) . H ,
. . .
.
50 2
.
HOW TO REACH THE AREA: Your course starts from the center of Volos where you take
Iolkos street, which is the main road that leads to mountain Pilion. Follow that road for about
ten minutes until you see a small bridge on your left. Go past the bridge and drive another 50
meters until you find another bigger bridge (P0 on the map) on your left (sign to Makrinitsa).
Take the road that passes over the bridge and goes by the river and follow it until the parking
space P1 as it is displayed on the map. There are two alternatives to reach parking spaces P2
and P3, which are on the next map.

P1:
P2:
P3: (N3923.423', E02258.585', 305m)

- , ( ),
1
100
.
- 5 3.


The road after the village Ag.Onoufrios to the parking area (P2) near the stream is a good
gravel road 80m long.

2,3 4
The sector 2,3 and 4 is visible at the photo

. 1

.
.
The nearest sector to the parking space is the one, which is next to the little chapel of St.Nikolas.
The type of rock here is red and gray limestone

1.
2.
2.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.LION KING
12.

V
VII

*********
*********

V+
VI
VIII
VI+(boulder/top-rope)
VI (boulder/top-rope)
VI?(top-rope)
VI
VI+
VII
VIII+;

**********
-
***********
-
-
-
***************
**************
-

. 2
15
25 .
The height of the routes here varies. There are routes from 10 to 25 meters.

1.
2.
2. French Iriss
3.
3. Yellow River
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.Muppet Show
9.
10.
10.DAMA (top-rop)
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
15.
15.
16.
17.
18.

V+
VII
7a
V?
7a+
VII+
VIVIVIVI
VI+
V+
VI(+)
VI(-)
VI(+)
VIII
VII

-
-
**********
-
-
-
-
-
-
-

-
-
-
***********
***********

VI+
VIVIV+

-
-
***********

. 3
7 14
.
""
. 3,
,

.
The routes No 7 to 14 are on an upper block and as soon as there is no access from the ground
you have to descent with a rappel to a "balcony" where the beginnings of the routes

1.
1.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.PROJ
13.
14.PROJ

VII-(boulder/top-rope)
VI(boulder/top-rope)
V+(boulder/top-rope)
VVV
VVII(-)
VI(+)
VII(-)
VII(-)
VII(-)
VII-

-
-
-
-
**********
************
********
************
-
-
-
-
-
-
-

. 4
.
, .
.
70
This is the most beautiful part of the whole area. The type of the rock here combines red and
gray limestone. The scenery is marvelous with steep overhanging arrets full of big holes and
cavities. Some routes reach the height of 70 meters.

1.
2.proj
3.proj
4.proj
5.
6.proj
7.-proj
8.
9.-proj
10.Peugeot
11.
11a.
12.
13.
14.
14a.
15.
16.
17.
18

V / VI / VI+

VIIIV?
VI+/ VI+/VII
V / V+
VI+
VI
VVI
VI
VIVIIVI
VII-

-
-
-
-
-Eschembecher
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
***********
*************
-

. 5

. ,


3
.


(




).
, ,
.
.
For the fifth and last region of StNikolakis, it
is preferable you come from the road that
goes to Koukourava and leave your car at the
place P3. P3 is at the end of pine trees and
before the first houses of Koukourava (At P3
there is a very small building with cinder
blocks). With your back at that building and
your face to Koukourava village after 1 min
you will see the routs.

1
2
3
4
5

6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15

(top-rop)
Matrix
Fredy
Reloaded
Pysher
Monster-me

Magas
Remora

proj

V
VII-/
V
VIIV /V
V/V
V /VI+

: .
.
. .
( 0) ( .
) .
0 4 .
.

.
4 ,
0
, . , 15
.
HOW TO REACH THE AREA: Your course starts from the center of Volos where you take
Iolkos street, which is the main road that leads to mountain Pilion. Follow that road for about
ten minutes until you see a small bridge on your left. Go past the bridge and drive another 50
meters until you find another bigger bridge (P0 on the map) on your left (sign to Makrinitsa).
Take the road that passes over the bridge and goes by the river and follow it until the parking
space P3 as it is displayed on the map. There on your right you will see a small building. You
can leave your car there and walk another 50 meters. The climbing sector is visible from the
parking space.

1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8

VII
VI / VII
VII / VIIIVIII
VI+ / VIVI
VI / VI+

: .
.
. .
( 0) ( .
) .
0 4 .
.
1
.
3
.
.
,
3 , ( ! ) .
HOW TO REACH THE AREA: Your course starts from the center of Volos where you take
Iolkos street, which is the main road that leads to mountain Pilion. Follow that road for about
ten minutes until you see a small bridge on your left. Go past the bridge and drive another 50
meters until you find another bigger bridge (P0 on the map) on your left. Take the road that
passes over the bridge and goes by the river and follow it until the parking space P3 as it is
displayed on the map. There on your right you will see a small building and on your left a
gravel road which you must follow for about 10 minutes. As soon as you reach a small building
with plate antenna on its roof leave your car and take the path that starts in front of this
building.

GPS..

- 1
: ( )
.
.
.
, 12:00
.
10 15
Access: In front of the building starts gravel road, which is in a very bad condition. Follow that
road on the ridge that goes southwards and after a while go past a water pipe on your left until
you see the blue marks that lead you at the foot of the cliff face. The routes are ideal for summer
climbing as the sector is in shade after 12:00 approximately.
The routs are 10-15 m long
1
2
3
4
5
6

VI(+)
VI

-
-
-
-

- 2
: 150
.
2. .
: ,
. ,
, , ,
, .
. .
. ,
.
Access: Follow the path, which winds through the southwest slope and descents until you find
the red marks on a big rock. There follow the path that goes north along the little gorge. After 3
minutes the path crosses the stream (you won't find any water) and after a while you will see the
cliff face. The best season for climbing there is winter and spring as the cliff face is in sunlight
from 11:00 to the setting of the sun. The view from there is fantastic as you can see the whole
city of Volos, Pagasitikos gulf and some mountains of central Greece if the sky is clear.

1
2
3
4
5
6

BETA-G

TROLL

VI
VII+
VII+
VII
VIIVIII

15 m
15 m
18 m
18 m
7m
7m

-
-
-
-
-
-



. 50 ,
,
The routes are ~100 meters before we reach the first houses of Makrinitsa village coming from
Portaria vilage. 50 meters before the first parking area there are marks that lead to the rocks

1
2
3
4

The temple
foto

GPS..

, ,
Karsten Oelze , Barbara Hertner .
:
1
Hermes
7c+/8a
m
2
Eat your meat
7c
m
3
Rumo
6b
m
4
Dogfight
7a
m
5
proj
m
6
Carmen
6a+
m
7
Carmin
6b
m
8
SMP
7a+
m
9
Luc Skywalker
7b
m
10 The return of Jedi Knights
7a
m

????????????????????????????????????


From Volos follow the signs to the road
to Agria, which is about 15 minutes. As
soon as you reach the first houses of
the village the road comes to a junction
where you must follow the road on your
left. After a while go past a big church
on your right and carry on until you
find a bucher's on your right there turn
left and go on straight for a while. As
soon as you reach a football field turn
right and follow the concrete lane,
which constantly ascends to the
mountain as it is shown on the map.
When the concrete road changes to
gravel one you will see the steep rock
faces of the climbing sectors 1 and 2
1: N3921.256', E02300.778', 216m

(15 ) .
.
.
.
,
, . ( )
3 4 .
, . 4
.
' . 3

.
. 5
1 2 .
.
2
.

1.

 1
H .



.
15 18 .

.
4:00 .
The view from this point is breathtaking as
you can see nearly the whole Pagasitikos
gulf. The type of rock here is grey limestone
with excellent friction. The routes are all
about 15-18 meters. This sector is in shade
after 4.00 pm.

1
2
3
4
5
5
6
7
8
9
9
9
10
11
12
13
14

V
VII+
VI+
VI+
V

*************
************
************
-
***************

VI+
VI+
VII+
VIII+

**************
**************
***
**************

V
V
V
VI
VI+

**************
**************
**************
**************
-
23

 2

14:00 .
.
15 20 .
These routes are in shade after 13:00 so this sector is ideal for the summer. Most of the routes
here are overhanging and the type of rock is red limestone.

1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15

24

-//

VVII+
V
V
VII
VI+
VI
VIVV+
V-?

VII+/ VVII
VII

4
************
***************

- Reid

1

.

Short and powerful overhanging routes.

1.
2.
3.
4.

V?
V?
V?
V?

*************
************
************
************

4
7-8 .
.
. 1

.
:
Short routes. Most of them are easy except for the two ones which start inside the cave.
The routes are bolted. At route No1 it is good to place some traditional safety.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

V
V
VIIVII+
V
V+

*************
************
********
********
***************
**************

25

: 25 (25 Km).
, ,
. .
& .
.
. 7 Km
. ,
(7.4Km)
(N3908.550', E02233.886', 725m). 1,2 Km
.
. (N3908.966', E02234.372', 705m)
2-3 min

Access: From Volos we go Almiros in 25 min (25 Km). Coming from the Mikrothives, after the
first Gus station that we meet in entry of Almiros, we make right in central street. This street
leads to the Efksimoupoli. Following this central street we go to the villages Neohoraki and
Neraida. After the last houses of village it exists ramification of street. We go left to Anavra. We
follow the street and after 7 Km we see the rocks left us. We continue our course, in right us we
meet church and after a while (7.4Km) we turn left in very good rural earth-road (N3908.550',
E02233.886', 725m). We follow this earth-road for 1,2 Km and we go left in an open area
where exists abandoned fold. In this point we are above the routs. (N3908.966', E02234.372',
705m)
Right from the abandoned fold exists access for the root of the rock 2-3min following the blue
marks

: .
40 50 . 13:00
. 15
60 25
70m
.
Comments: Very good grey and red limestone. Almost all the routs are 40 to 50 metres long.
The rocks is in the sun from 13:00 and afterwards. You will need 15 quick draws and 60 metres
of rope because at some routs the rappel is 25 metres and in the case that there is not belay at
the middle of the route a 70m rope is preferable otherwise you must make rappel from a near by
route.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11

Magic Bus

(
)
()

Lady in red


Aldomoro

proj
7b+

15m
15m
35m
10m

-
-
- Ride

VII+/VIIVI+/VIIVII+/..

10m
40m
40m
40m
45m
40m
35m

Reid -
-

12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26

Tike Saab

VI / VI
VII+/VIIIVI / VI
VIII-/..
VII-/VII+
VI-/VII
VII/V?
VIIVI+

45m
50m
45m
20m
50m
45m
45m
20m
20 m

Reid -

-
-
- Mike Reid
-
-
-
-

VII-/VI+
VII-/VII
VI/VI+
VII+

50m
50m
40m
35m

-
-

27
28
29
30
31
32
33

Eldorado
La vache qui rit

V / VI+
VII
V / VI+
VII(+)
VI
V
V

40m
35m
40m
20m
35m
20m
20m

Mike Reid
Reid--
- Mike Reid

-Reid

IV

VII-/..

1
4Km
.

70 15
The access is the same with that of Sector 1 with the difference that you continue at the central
road for 4Km more after you find the small church. At a curve of the road, at the right, begins
two earth-roads. We follow the left by foot and after a while we find the sector
Take 15 15 quick draws and a 70 metres rope is preferable
(routs from left to the right) :
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10

Galaktika
Futurismo

Nigra et Amara


Insomnia

6b
6a+
7a+
8a+ ?
7a
6c+(7a)
7b
7a+
7a+
7b

: 25 (25 Km).
- , ,
( - ).
- ,
() .
(N39 10.645 ', E022 46.148 ').
( - ).
4 Km . -
. (
13 min ) (N39 07.433 ', E022 44.663 ', 254m).

.
( 30-40 min)
: 15 25 .
16:00
Access: From Volos take the road to Almiros, which is a town 25 km southwest of Volos
- Coming from the Mikrothives, few meters afterwards the first houses of Almiros, we go left
(label to National road- health center).
- Coming from the national road, we follow the labels to Almiros and in the first lanterns
(school) we make left.
We follow the direction of the street up to the bridge (N39 10.645 ', E022 46.148 ').
Immediately after the bridge we turn right (label to Kofi-monument Orthis). After approximately
4 Km we meet some folds. Two - three turns then the landscape changes and sees agricultures.
In this point right us is found the rocks (~13 min from Almiros) (N39 07.433 ', E022 44.663 ',
254m) . For the routs there is path which begins outside at the right side of hedge of the first
property that we meet in right us. (Total time from Volos ~ 30-40 min)
Comments: Good grey limestone routs from 15 up to 25 metres long. The routs are in the sun
approximately until 16:00

1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20

Manic Monday
Apocalypse Now!
Johhnie be good



Barcelona

Red twin line

Amaretto
Red hot chili pepper

Hasta la vista baby

6a+
6b(+)
7c+
proj
8a+
6c+
6a
6c
6b+
6a+
5c
6b
6b
6c
6b+
6a+
6c+
6c(+)
6b+(6c)
6a+
6a+

- Mike Reid

-o

- Mike Reid
- o

- o
- o


1:

.

(N3903.813',
E02250.198', 448m).

..

. , ,
.
. .
( ) (N3902.956',
E02250.113', 340m). (N3903.0639', E02250.339',
304m).
. .
(N3903.192', E02250.767',
257m) .
~100 (N3903.2336',
E02250.7873', 220m)
.
.
(N3903.3238', E02250.8414', 198m).

(N3903.3336',E02250.8951', 197m).

.
(N3903.3233',
E02250.9120', 212m).
(N3903.2628', E02251.0589', 257m).
.
30-40

2: .
Access 1: At the road to Sourpi we go right to Brinena. We see the new and after a while the old
Abbey Xenia. After a while we meet open area with wastes (N39 03.813 ', E022 50.198 ',
448m). There we make left in and then right to Ag. Vlasios. In this point, precisely front us, at
the exit of stream we see the rocks. From this point and then the street is earth-road with one or
two points where maybe you will have difficulties if you do not have 4x4. The road leads at the
opposite side of ravine. There the street is uphill. In a right turn there is a secondary road that
goes left (the only one that goes left) (N39 02.956 ', E022 50.113 ', 340m). We follow this
road until an open area where we park (N39 03.0639 ', E022 50.339 ', 304m). From this point
we continue by foot on the road with direction to the exit of the gorge. In the end of this road
(N39 03.192 ', E022 50.767 ', 257m) we continue left on a downhill path. After ~100m we

come out in an opening (N39 03.2336 ', E022 50.7873 ', 220m) in which we should be careful
in the return. We continue with direction to the exit of gorge. The path lead us in the river (N39
03.3238 ', E022 50.8414 ', 198m). We continue in open area next to the river until to find an
abandoned house (N39 03.3336 ', E022 50.8951 ', 197m). This point is the only one that is
suitable for camping. Behind the house the path continues uphill and we find again the old trail
(N39 03.3233 ', E022 50.9120 ', 212m). We continue up to the end of rocks (N39 03.2628 ',
E022 51.0589 ', 257m). The path for the routs is at the root of rocks. Total walking 30-40 min

: 100 .
1.
2.Smoke on the water
3.fire in the sky

VI
V/VII-/VI+/VII

-
- -

 ( )
????


55 Km.
, 15
- 15 .
, ,
.

(1) .
.
, , ,
( ) .
.
: ,
.
.
.

.
.
From Volos follow the road to Mt Pilion. After an hour you will reach Tsagarada a village,
which is on the main road. There follow the road to Milopotamos (you'll see signs). After 20
minutes the road comes to an end where a parking space is above the sea. Leave your vehicle
there and follow the path which passes in front of the restaurant on your left, as you look at the
sea, if you want to go to sector 1 and the one on your right that goes straight in the canyon if
you want to go to the other sectors. Most of the routes at sector 1 are hard overhanging ones. At
sector 2 you can find some boulder problems too. BE CAREFUL! Unfortunately, camping on
this beautiful beach is not allowed.

.
Quattro Amigos 3-4 friends
. Modus Viventi
VII- VII+ .
10 - 20 m .

.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10

U
Quattro Amigos
3 Amigos

Modus Viventi

N.R.G
Nirvana

VIVI+
VIVIVI+
IX(-)
VII+
VIVIII(+)
VII(+)

***
***
***
***
***
***
***

To climb the route "Quattro Amigos" you need 3-4 friends, as it is not bolted except its relay.
You can't climb here in winter because waves come up to the beginnings of the routes. The
routes here are mostly overhanging.
2

 2
.

1.
2.-
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.-3

V?
VI+
VI+
VVVI

- 13 6/99
- 6/99
- 6/99
- 6/99(boulder/top-rope)
.- 6/99(boulder/top-rope)
( )
VI+ - 6/99(boulder/top-rope)
VI- 6/99(boulder)
VI .- 6/99(boulder/top-rope)
VI+ - 6/99(boulder/top-rope)
:

4 10 top-rope
.
The quality of the rock here is very good with no moisture at all. Routes No 4-10 can be climbed
either on top-rope or boulder.

 3

,

There are only two routs not so good bolted

1
2

VI-0

4


Up to the moment there is only one route in this sector but it is ideal for overhanging routes of
great difficulty.
1

VII+

(N3923.272', E02310.360', 487m)

(N3923.430', E02311.538', 100m)
.
( 10 )
.
.
.
( 2
).
?????

. 6Km.
The beach Fakistra is small but very beautiful with green waters.
The routs are neither many nor long (height roughly 10m) but the place is very beauty. The
routs are found in the exit of stream in shade of trees. Early at summer some routs perhaps are
in water because of a small waterfall that leads to the beach. Also there is a rock in the beach
that you can play (If you want you can try top-rope because there are 2 plates at the to of the
rock).
The access in the beach becomes via Tsagarada the street is however narrow and needs
attention. From Tsagarada it is 6Km far away.
1
2
3
4

Pulp fiction
Amelie

V
V
V+
VI

-
-




( )
.
:
The Krefo Scholio is next to Fakistra beach and has the same access with the difference that
from the parking we go by foot left (looking at to the sea)
.
The routs from left to right as we look at the rocks are:
1
2
3
4
5

VIII+
VII
VII
VI+

m
m
m
m
m


(N3926.476', E02308.152', 0 m)
. 4 V
VI 15 .
. .
.
The beach does not have something interesting for climbing. There are 4 routs with difficulty
from V to VI and height roughly 15 meters. Nevertheless the beach is very beautiful and you
will be reward. Attention because the place is a little bit crowded. Access becomes through
Chorefto or Makrirachi.


, ,
Karsten Oelze Barbara Hertner.

1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11

Steliobster
MIMY
Rockbar
Tuffantastic
proj
Aerobotics
Hellenic tuffa way
Helicopter
Snuffi
Kougiou
Kalo Pasxa

6b+
7a+
7b
7a
8a?
7b+
7b+/c
7a
5+
6c+
6c


:

.

.
.

.
(N3908.078', E02315.221', 144m)

~100.
.
.
,
.
30 .
.

Access:
We go Argalasti and follow the signs to Platanias. After the Lafko we turn right to an earth-road
that leads to Mikro. Approaching the Mikro the street becomes descent turnpike. Continue until
we meet the first earth-road in left. (N39 08.078 ', E023 15.221 ', 144m). There we park and
continue by foot at the earth-road for ~100m. The routs are at the left of the house that we meet.
The routs are found in the exit of stream that leads to the beach of Mikro. They are the
characteristic rocks at the left as we look at from the beach to the stream. The place is like a
cave with no roof. The routs are from 12 to 30 meters long. The region is offered for climbing
all day simply choosing sun or shade. In the begging of routs there are labels with the names
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17

Mausi
Extacy

Rookie Jooker
Sqeezer




Dreamin Dolphin

VI7b
VII+
VII
VI
VI
VI+
VI+
6c
7b
proj
VII-/VI+
6c+
VII+
7c?
7b+(c)

-
-
-

18
19
20
21
22

VIIVI+
VI
VI
6c(+)


.


4 :
The Hodri Amos is a small gulf west of Mikro Platania. There is access to the beach through a
bad gravel road before we reach Mikro. However it is preferable to reach there through St
Andreas (small village after Milina).
Until now there are 4 routs with difficulty from left to right:
1
2
3
4
5

VIII+
VII
VII
VI+

..?