Bow-Front Drawers * Shop-Built Picture Frames » Picture-Perfect Miters » Hardware Storage System PS a0) ST aha rey eee eae _ Picture Frames SUN Peg fn a iy A New Storage SACU ee Ge ngWoodsmith No. 121 February, 1999 Publisher Donald B, Poschke Editor Terry], Strohman Associate Editors Jon Garbison Vincent Ancona ArtDirector Todd Lambirth Senior [lustrators David Kreyling Dirk Ver Steg ‘Mike Mittermeier ‘CREATIVE RESOURCES rte Tet Kok» Projet eco Ke Nel = Sere! Dae: Kent Wea, Sova C Bae» Sop nar Sir Crs = Se ofan on Sor roger Cao ge ich Worehonse: Syria Carey, Dan Sle WOODSMITH STORE Maaago Vase anon» asssant ag Pulser «Sale Sift Pat Lowry, Jerome Her, Wendell Stone, JimBarmer Kathy Soh John heson Lary Moris © Opie Menager Vek Bdsaris Se Seat oi eerie niente aes aan . oer ee oe snes ieee Waco Dae 12 Bae, iiraceresratenscateas Epiror’s COLUMN SAWDUST while back I overheard someone talking about a pharmacy that hias a soda fountain and makes great homemade ice cream. Not wanting to missa trip down memory lane (espe- ly one that included ice cream), I decided to pay the placea visit When I opened the door, it was lice stepping back in time. Along one wall ‘was an old fashioned soda fountain. In front ofit stooda long counter with a row of stainless steel stools. And I'l acmit, Icoulcn’tresst taking spin — just like when I was akid. ‘While siting there eating my fresh peach ice cream and scaking up the nostaleia, [turned and started watch- ing the pharmacitfiling prescriptions atthe back ofthe store. Behind the counter was a tall bank ‘ofwood drawers for storing medicine. ‘Bat these were not typical horizontal ‘drawers. Each drawer stood upright like « book on ashelf However these drawers didn't just look different. They aso hed a unique ‘way of opening — they moved in two directions. Fach drawer pled straight ‘out. Then it swung around to provide access tothe items stored inside. Being carious, Tasied the pharma- istifIcould take alook at his drawers, He gave me an odd look, but said okay. ‘As| examined the drawers [realized ‘they were the perfect solution to aprob- Jem I was having in my shop — orga nizing and storing screws, nals, and assorted small hardware items. Woodsmith, STORAGE STSTIN. Sol got iogether with Kent (one of our designers) and we used this concept for designing our ‘own shop-bult storage system. Itcon- sists of asimple plywood box that con- ‘ains seven drawers (three wide draw- ers and four narrow ones). Weveal included plans for two different size storage bins that it inside the drawers. For more information, see the article Deginning on page 28. Tvegot the drawersin my shop now, and they work great. Besides being ableto store alot of haniware ina small space, I really ike the fact that they're based on a simple concept that hes stood the test of time. 20TH ANNIVERSARY On thesubjectoftime, this year marks the twentieth anniversary of Woodsmith. “The first issue was only eight pages long, fad two simple black-and-white photographs, and about a dozen sketches. As you can see, Woodsmith has changed quite bit over the years. But our basic goal is the seme as when it started — to pro vide woodworkers with useful projects, tips, and techniques. But we're not just celebrating the past. We're looking forward to the future, We'll continue to provide plen- ty of useful woodworkinginformation. And we've got a few special things planned as wel. keep you posted. No. 121 : 1 ;A LOOK INSIDE CONTENTS Features Bow-Front End Table .. The drawers on this formal project a stand out, but not the onb woodorhteclales ere. The ued les, beaded edging and glass-smooth finish also deserve a closer look. Bow-Front Drawers ................... - 16 You might expect how-frone drawers to be difficult to make. But ing the curves on che front pieces i no ig deal. And our pro- lure males it easy to join the curved fronts tothe sraight sides. Picture Frame Moldings .... .20 few router bits and some scraps of weod, you can come up sariety of moldings for framing pictures. Here are six examples you can build in a few hours Picture-Perfect Miters . 24 Every woodworker knows what mi —and how frustrating it car be to cut them acciarately. Here's how we end up with picture-perfect mites, from accurate setups on your table saw to tips for fitting and clamping a mitered frame together. Hardware Storage System . Aah Inside the vertical drawers of this system, there are small, shop- ‘made bins that rest on adjustable shelves. What you end up with isa lot of 100m for storage without taking up much shelf space. Departments Tips & Techniques ...................... 4 Shop Notes . Reader's Jig Sources ... No. 121 Woodsmith Hardware Storage System page 28Lgxe\ve wa BRe)Y ANYere DVO T3309 Tips & TECHNIQUES Shop-Made Scratch Aw! Ascratch awl is great for laying out dimensions on a workpiece. But since I socks head ‘work on a lot of small pro- areas jects, I needed a feimater cord smaller awl with a finer Bs point than ye ted ‘wood kiob Recently Invas building sev- eral tall bookcases that I planned to install side by sidein a room. But instead of buying mechanical lev- ‘lore for cach bookease, I ‘made my own. ‘My shopmade levelers are concealed bebind an apron at the bottom of the bookcase. ‘The levelers consist of ‘two parts, see drawing. A plywood retainerisscrewed tothe hotiom of the book ‘ease, capturing’s pair of found on most scratch awis. So I made my own awlusing an ordinary play- ing dart, see photo. Isimply unscrewed the metal tip of the dart from the plastic “feathers” and found a socket head washers and machine screwsintwo counterbared holes. Note that the wash- ers are installed on top of themachine serewsto pre- vent them from bscking out ofthe holes. machine screw that matched the threads, For a handle, 1 used a DVA'dia. round wood knob with a counterbored hde, ‘see drawing below. ‘Tocenterthehole nthe knob, frst alange, shal are threaded into the nuts, ‘see detail‘. Accouple of emall holes Tow hole ina backer (sup ort) board. Without mor- ing the backer board, replace the dril bitand dril the counterbored hole in the knob, seedetail, Joel Gruenberz Lompoc, CA in the bottom shelf of the bookcase provide access 10 the screws so you can adjust the foot up or down. (Gane Moulton Livonia, Michigan ‘The foot of the leveler is glued up from two pieces of plywood. Holes drilled near the ends of the foot line up with the machinescrews ‘Woodsmnith ore: Bonet glue retiner ese ie thehneres oft" avd No. 121Workmate. Extension Dogs In my small shop, I use a wood dowel thet fits into folding, portable work- the holes on the top of bench (Workmate) formost the bench, see detail. On ‘of my woodworking. The the other end of the dos, workbench is fine for a stop is glued and smaller projects, butifthe screwed in place, project is bigger than the Jack Kier top of the bench, I can’t Fremont, Oi clamp it between the bench dogs. So to allow the bench to NOTE: tength of Ioldlanger projects, Imade extension an ‘some epecial bench dogs, f Bitneed see photo. These dogs extend beyond the edge of the bench to provide a wider clamping capacity. a See a! = x ie ‘The dogs are made from strips of 4"thick hardwood, see drawing. (made mine 10" long) A 3{"diz. hole on one ‘end holds a chort hard. Magnetic Push Stick Holster No miaiter how many push er to set the push stick in slicks I make, itseems Ike the groove. Tnever can find one when Finally, to keep the push Tneed it most —right in stick handy, I drilled shal- the middle of a saw cut. low holes in the bottom of So to help keep my push the holder and epoxied in sfick within arm’s reach at four small magnets, see all times, I made a simple detail This way, Ican place holster, see drawing, theholderon topofmy saw, ‘The holster is nothing just offto the side, so can, ‘more than ascrap piece of reach the push stick easily 2xd.Agroove cutdown the with one hand. And I can center matches the thick- quicklyremove theholster * da 1 dowel ness ofthe pushstick. Then in the way. the edgesofthe groove are Dug Hicks chamfered to make iteasi- Urbandale, Towa BT Oe) Ifyou would like to share an original shop-tested tip, send it to: Woodsmith, Tips and Techniaves, 2000 Grand Avenue, Des Moines, lows 50312. OF if t’s easier, FAX it to us at: 515-2826741. Or use ‘our E-Mail address: woodsmith @woodsmith.com. Include a brief explanation and sketch or photo. Ifyour tip is published, youll receive $30 0 $150, depending on the published length. And don't ‘worry, we'll rewrite the tip and redrav the art, i necessary. Also, please include a daytime phone number so we can contact you if we have any ‘questions regarding your tip: sanding “discs.” No. 121 Woodsmitt 1 Shop-made extension dogs alow you to clamp wp large objec. Push ick ja Width of ‘Borches cee ofpush tek QUICK TIP noticed that the front Thave a detail sander that uses triangular corner of the disc always wears out first, hile the rest ofthe disc is like new. So to get ‘more life from each sanding dise, I simply trimthe edges of the i angle to create a “new” ‘corner, see drawing. Robert Brandon Morison, ilinoisSee VNGI Aa PROJECT BOW-FRONT END TABLE You might expect a bow-front table like this to throw you a few curves, but creating each of the formal details is pretty straightforward. Heese, Setthis end able in aroomwith a bunch of woodworkers and see what they look at first. betyou nine times out often, the bow-front craw- ers willbe opened first and given acloseinspection. And frankly, Pd do the same thing. The drawers are one of, the most intriguing features of this project. ‘You don't see bowdront drewersvery often. Soit’s nat- uraltobe curious about how they're built Are they bent to this shape or cut from a thick block? And how do you 80 aboat joining the bowed front to the straight sides? For these drawers, [used @ procedure that was alittle ‘unusual, butt allowed me to build the drawers without any special jigs or matesials. The secret sto start off by building an ordinary ¥/"hick érawer with machine-cut dovetails. But before gluing these drawer pieces togeth Iglued a thick blocktto the frontpiece and cut out the curves, For a closer look at this process, there’s a step- by-sep article that star's on page 16. Woodsmith Once you've discovered the trick to how the drawers arebuilt, there are silla few other design details on this table you'll want to look a allitie closer. FLUTED LEGS. Take the legs, for instance. They look like square columns with utes on the outside faces and cham- fers on the corners. Here, consistency is everything. The three Tuteson each face must be spaced evenly and stop the same distance from the top and bottom of the legs. Butthere’s nothing complicated about the procedure. All, ‘youneedisa careful setup on the router table with acom- ‘mon core box bit, see the bax on page 9. CURVED EDGING. This end table has plenty of other details to Iook at: the bezd profiles on theses. the curved edg- ing, and the ogee profile around the top. But there's one detail you won't be able to resist touching — the finish. 1 gave the top of this table a glass-smooth finish. This requires a few extra coats of finish and a litle elbow ease, but i's well worth it, see page 1. No. 121 wo Details . Construction ; 38" $7 OVERALL DIMENSIONS: i 24H x 18°W x 2654°D. See 7p pape! auneropenings tied 9 —— = math Gres nore: For more on making Bowron drones See page 16 Legian Cee) freee sa erasing ‘cured edging 0» vreb fare matches “bowed® drawer fronts [ser meat made by iaminati 7 l p eenat Pdlsed" feet ice oct ao \ on bottom of eos Legs uted on routed with round routeriable with ove’ bit nrovter table ip core box bit ae seepage? an Beaded profile accents curved eoging Sais sorvew y, ie ‘A Opening the drawer reveals the half-blind dovetail joinery and allows you a closer look atthe sweeping curve ofthe fronts. No, 121 WoedsmithFluted Legs ‘Though the boweontdrawersonthe end table attrac the most attention, thelegsalso deserve aclserlook On eachoutsde fice, routed three tes (rounded, stopped grooves like those you might find on a column), see drawing atright, But don't worry. The ‘lutes are fairly simple to create. ‘They'redone onthe router table with core box bit, see next page. (UITOSIE. Tomek the legs (A),1 ‘started with 8/4 stock that’s cut 1/4" ‘square, see drawing. Then the legs can be cutto final length. (used wal- nutto build this table, but mahogany or cherry would aso lok nice with a formal project like this) (RIATE MORTISES. The legs will be joined by abackand twoside panels. This Ushaped case is held together with mortse and tenon joints, How ever, since the panels will be over 11" wide, I wanted to keep the leg mor- tisesas strong as possible. So instead ‘ofa singlemartise oneach face, Ieut ‘wo shorter ones, see detai‘a” But before carrying the legs over tothe drill press, I took the time to ‘carefully lay out the mortises. There's nothing more frustrating than diling ‘a mortise in the wrong place. Plus, the legs on this table aren'tidentical, see detail bat right. The back legs are mortised on two adjacent faces. ‘The front legs on only one face. To create mortises, Hike o drill overlapping holes and clean up each mortise with a chisel, see Fig. 1. And Typically drill them He" deeper tan the length of the tenons. This way, there willbe room for excess gue. ROUT FLUTES. With the mortises cut, ‘work can begin onthe narrow utes. ore: clean martes wih Eis! ‘Thegoal wth the futesistogetthem evenly spaced andto get them toline up onthe topand bottom Thisis easy enough todo onthe router table with core bor bt. All you need is along fence and a couple sip blocks. For ‘more on this, see neat page. ‘unre 255. Besides the futes,1 also chamiered the outside edges of the legs. This is the same basic pro- cedure used forthe futes, But youll need toreplacethe core box bit with Boke ities chamfer bt and readjust the fence and stop blocks so the chamifers end up even with the flutes, see Fig. 2. FOOTPADS. There's one last detailto add before the legs are complete, I cut a unique fot pad on the bottom ofeach leg, see detail'’ above, This pad is rounded with a Ys" shoulder, and it’s routed on the router table using a’ roundover bt, see Fig.3. (Po beck up the cut, used a miter sauze with an auniliary fence.)ROUTING THE FLUTES Many table legs are pretty basic and don't attract alot of attention. But the legs on this table have been “dressed up” with small, round flutes that really add interest. Because the flates attract more attention, extra care has {tobe taken to make sure they ‘are consistent. The trick isto ‘get them spaced everly. Whats mote, the fates are stopped, so they have to line up atthe top and bottom too. Trouted the flutes on the router table, using acommon core box bit, This isa plunge ‘aut —at both ends. You have to-set the eg orto the spinning bit tthe beginning ofthe cut and lif it of at the end. This isn’t at all scary though. For ‘one thing, the bitis only %" in sGameter and iscuting just Ae! deep. And astop Block at each end makes the starting and ‘topping automatic. ‘Setting up this cutis a two- ‘step process. First, you work ‘on the spacing ofthe fates by setting the fence. Then you ‘make sure they'll be aligned by adding the stop blocks, SETTING FENCE. Normally, rout- ing three lutesona face would require three fence settings. But tokeep the spacing even, Teet the fence once and then used 1/""thick epacers to shift blocks, make sure the grooves the piece, see Steps 13 below, stop’A" fromthe bottomof the ‘Your normal router feace leg and 2" from the top, see probably won't work though. details ‘a’ and ‘c’ on page 8. Inordertoclampastopblock — Shop Note: To help me ateachend, you'll need afence remember which end of the over twice aslongasthe legs. lex went against which stop Tmade mine out of A" solid _ block, Idrewan“X" on the bot- wood and clamped it to the _ tom of thelegs ondon the stop table face down so itwas only block that they butted against, {YY al, sce drawing. Thislow sce drawing below. profile allowed me to easily Once the stop blocks are hold the legs and spacers clamped in place, things go together when routing. prety quickly. When using the ‘There's one more thing to spacers, simply held them to keep inmind wien setting the fence. The spacers take care of the spacing, but the fites ‘should also be centered onthe width of the legs. The easiest ‘way todo thisisto sete fence tocutthe middle fate (tre one routed with one spacer, see ‘Step 1). Ifthis flute is centered, then the others will be in the correct positions too, SertINg stor ators ‘With the fence set, the stop blocks can be added. ‘These take care of the align- ‘ment of the flutes, so they stop. and start the same, ‘The trick is that the flutes dont stop the same distance from each end (there's an extra 44 om the bottom for a foot pad). So when setting the the legs as Iran them across the router, see Steps 1 and 2. After all the flutes have been routed, there may still be one step lft, Whea routing, it’s nat- tural to slow down at the ends ‘ofthe cut, and youll probably notice some buraing. So T ‘wrapped sandpeper around dowel and sanded therflutesas needed, see Step, "END SECTION VIEW ‘Aker the fence and stop blocks have been set, ;out the middfe ites, using a sin- gle 4"-thick hardboard spacer, No 121 ‘Next, place enother Ya" Finally remove both herct thick spacer between the WW) board spacers and rout fence andleg and rout the sec- the lastset of flutes on the two cond set of utes. ‘outside faces of the legs. Woodsmith if there hos been any burning, wrap sandpaper ‘around a Y6"d. dowel and careful sand the tates.ve soe ven a a =| || seeee hay Be | H ioe ine al eae SS A All the beads on this end table are created with a 4p2"-rad. beading bit, For sources, see page 35. 10 Case Panels & Frames Once the legs are complete, three wile panels can be mate that will com nect the legs into a Usshaped case, see drawing above, Then toformthe drawer openings that divide the case, Trade three horizontal web frames. SIDE & BACK PANELS ‘The side and back panels that con- nect the legs will end up over 11" wide, So the first thing to do is glue themup from$é"thick pieces ofstock, ‘see drawing above. Then the side (®) andback panels (©) canbecut tosize,seeside and end viewsabove, CUTTENONS, Next, two tenons can be ‘cut on each end of the panels to ft into the mortises youcut in the legs. ‘Thisisn't as complicated asit sounds. I simply cut one loag tenon with '4 shoulders on the top and bottom. I did this just like I normally would, placing the pieces face down on tho table saw, using a dado blade buried inan auxilary nce. ‘Now to create two shorter tenons cuthn sdb panel = Ys rad, ‘beading bit ‘ut ofthisone Inng tenon, I cuta‘#- vwide notch in the center, see Figs. 4 and 4a. Again, I used my table saw and dado blade to do this standing the pieces on end and removing the waste jn multiple passes, But I didn't raise the blade upall the way to the shout der. They could end up with score ‘marks on the shoulders that would be visiblelater: instead, Icut the notch just short of the shoulders and used ‘chisel to complete the notch, ROUT BEADS. At this pint, the sides and backare rather plain, so aided a emall decorative bead on the bot ‘tom edge of each, sce Fig. 5. (This bead will also be cut on the curved edging pieces that divide the draw- ers later) ‘To do this, | used ae" radiusbeading bit, see margin photo. It's simply raised to cut a full bead with no shoulder, see Fig. Sa. ‘aT eROOVES. At this point, theback. is complete. The sides, on the other hand, need three '4"-vide grooves that will old the web frames, see Fig. 6. Thegroovesatthe top and bottom are located 1" from the edges, and No. 121the groove in the middle iscentered. ASSEMBLE LEGS 4 SIDES. After the grooves were cut, I glued the side panels between the front and back legs. (When doing this, just be sure the beads will end up onthe outside.) As for theback, itl be glued between the side assemblies a litle later. WEB FRAMES While the side assembles were dry- ‘ng, [bogan building the web frames, see Fig. 7, These are just three hard- ‘wood frames that fit around '4" ply- ‘wood dust panels. But they're prety ‘portant. The irames srengtnen the front of the case, create the drawer ‘openings, and support the drawers. RAILS & STIS. To accurately deter- nine the final sizeof the frames, [dry ‘assembled the side assemblies and ‘back pane. Then [could begin cutting the rails and stiles to size, see Fig. 7. ‘The rails (D) are cutto fit between the grooves in thesides, soadd ¥"to the side-to-side dimension. Ad to findthe length ofthe stiles (E), mea ‘sare from the insite face ofthe ont Jegs to the back panel (C); then sub- tract the width of the two rails and add 14 forthe stub tenons. CUT ORODVES 6 STUB THON. To hod the A" plywood panels, [cut agroove centered on the inside edges of the nails and stiles, see Fig. 8 Then cut mating stub tenons oa the ends ofthe silles to fit into the grooves that were justeut, see Fig. 9. (WEB PANEL, The Vé-thick plywood panel strengthens the frame, and it also keeps dust out ofthe drawers. ‘The web panel (F)caa be cut to fit {nto the grooves on the frame pieces. “Then the frame can be glued togett- er around the panel. UT TONGUE & NOTCHES. Thereare sill afew things to doto the frames. First, 7 nore: Fallsond stles centered tongues need tobecreated ‘on both sides of each frame, see Fig. 10, These tongues are sized tofitin the grooves on the side pieces. And finally, cut anotchin theback: ‘corners of each web frame, see Fig. 11. These allow the frames to fit around the back legs inside the case. And there's no need to worry about ending up with an airtight ft. sim- ply lad outthe notches and then cut them with a hand saw.Curved Edging ‘Themost unique feature of this table isobvious—the curveson the front. But at first glance, you might miss the bead profile on the edging between the drawers, sce drawing and detail'a"This profil iscreated in a simple two-step process. For the firststep, you need a Deading bit, and for the second, a quick auxiliary fence. CUT TO SIZE. The first thing to dois to dry assemble the case — without the back, see drawing. (YouTl need access tothe back later) Then with the case clamped together, you can. cut three 44"thick curved edging = (G) pieces to it between the front cumen legs. Bat keep the edging wide at this 7, point. (ts easer to cata smooth |p ed teens curve on an extrawide blank) Fane vege cur cunvis. With the blanks roughed Sr out, you can begin to lay out the curves. These ae the same as the carves hat ville cutonthe drawers, 90 [tock litle extra time to mekea ee reusable "hardboard template, see 2%" ‘ie squares the pattern at right. Now the template canbe used oT ne sl draw the curves on the three blanks. a Troughed out the curves witha band ‘saw, saving one ofthe “cutoff pieces _ stand out, see detail‘a’ above. To do _ the edging, see drawing above. (Just for later. Then I sanded to the lines Tused a 4" straight bit and a _ be careful thatyou dont giue the edg- witha drum sander on the drill press. _simplecradle that was made from one _ing tothe legs at this point.) ‘CREATE PROFILE. With the curves cut, of the curved waste pieces, see Fig. MOUNTING HOLES. With the edging Trouted bead profiles on the topand 13. (For more on this, see page 18) glued to the frames, there’s one last bottom edges, see Fig. 12. (did this GLUE EDGING 10 FRAMES. The curved thing to do before the case can be ‘onthe router fable withthe same bit trimppiecesarenow completeand can glued together. The top web frame used onthe side panelsearier) he luediothefrontedgesofthe web _ needssome countersunk shank holes Routing the beads is just the first frames. Butto do this, leave thecase so you can mount the top panel later, step. I also removed the material _dryassembled. Thisway, thelegson _ see details ‘a’ and‘b'indrawingat top between the beads so they would the sides will automatically position of next page. Shop Note: Drill the Waste 1 ei 1 nore: For more on Bisprocedure, see page 18holes slightly oversize so the panel can expand and contract freely with ‘changes in humidity ASSEMBLY. Finally, the entire caseis ready for final assembly, This means sguing the back panel and the three web frames between the two side assemblies, see drawing at right. TABLE TOP Like the legs and drawers, the top of thistable should also havea few: dotsils, So the front edge is curved like the curved edging pieces. And I routed the edges with an ogee fillet bit togveit a cassieprofil. GIUE UP PANEL, Te first thing to do. {s glue upa panel from3-thick sock, see drawing at right. And since the tops the most visible surface on the table, Itook extra care to choose and match come nice looking boards. After the glue is dry, the top (HD) canbe cut tossze, see drawing. I ply sized the panel to overhang the Jegs°A’ onall sides, see detal‘a And though I cut the panel to its final width, I leftit a litle lng. Getting a smeoth curve is easier this way. CGEATE CURVE. Since this curve isa ‘coupleinches wider than the curved ‘edging (), I couldrit uee the came template. Instead I simply bent flex: ible straightedge against a couple blocks and drew the curve directly ‘on the top, see Fig. 14 and drawing above. Then it's cut out and sanded smooth with a disk or drum sander. ROUT PROFLE. Next, to give the top a ‘nique profile, T routed around the edges with an ogee fillet bt, see Fig. 15 and photo inmargin. Thisis atwo- step process, bul you cam use the ‘same bit with both steps. “The frst pass is routed full depth, see Fig. 15a. (To avoid chipout, rout the ends first, moving the router left- toright,) For the second pass, youl need to aljust the depth ofthe bit so the bearing wills idealong the fat edge, see Fig. 15b. This means there vill be alitile sanding left to do to round the edge completely. A this point, the top can be screwed. to the case. But before doing this, I applied a coat of finish to the bottom face of the top so it was less likely to cup, refer to nege 15, No. 121 ‘ple alow ‘Bempendane “contract hhumiiy Nore: Top cut from otratong Se Bic pone! oe Ee Cass a ws [eax ern A The clasic profile around the table top is created ‘with an ogee file bit. For sources, see page 35 3A When laying ove the pilot holes for rmointing the pulls 1 protected the finish with sips ‘of masking tabe. Bow-Front Drawers With this table, the best is saved for last —the bowront drawers are both the main attraction and a great woodworking challenge. ut pRawiRs, To build the drawer, you siart by making a square drawer with 4/-thick stock and rmachine-cat dovetails, see exploded view and detail.’ ohelp youout, there'sa step- by-step article on page 16.) [ sized the fronts (I) and backs (1) so the completed drawer would have a !Ac" gapet the top bottomand sides, And the sides @)werecut 19" ong. (The drawer ended up about %6" short of the back of the case.) But before assembling the drawer, a thick false front (K) is glued tothe front piece. Now the front canbe cut ‘toshape and sanded smooth. Finally, a drawer bottom (L) can be added, and the drawers ged together, -HTTING TaE BRANRS. Is a good ‘ee. Ing to have the drawers assembled. Butihere’s sill work eto dobetore they'll slide smoothly in the case. ‘GUDDES. The first thing I did wasadd pieces to guide the drawers and cen- ter them side-to-side. The 34"-thick uides (M) are cut to length to fit between the legs, and they'reripped just wide enough to guide the draw- crinand outofthecase without bind- Ing, see Figs. 16 and 16a. GUDE STRIPS. Though the guides direct the drawer, you don't want the drawer to rest directly on the web frame. Eventually the drawer sides would rub through the finish and EXPLODED VIEW hore: Fors syste atc onoulng Dowetiont Srowors seepage 16 ras bail pull. 7 ‘wear a visible groove in the curved ‘edging So toavoid this, Iplaced nylon agtide strips inside the cabinet for each ‘dravertoride on, see Fig. 166, These lide sips were roughly 'is'-thick, so they also established the proper gap at the bottom ofthe drawer. ‘TOPS. The next task is to get each drawer to shut so its front face is sot just behind the bead on the curved ‘edging, see Fig, 16c. To do this, I ‘ailded a short iock a. the back ofthe ‘case toact as adrawer stop, see Fig. 16, Sneakupon the final width ofthis stop (N). (Mine was%' wide) Then simply glue the block to the back of the case with hand pressure, front are walnut Ses and back sremepte ore: Dri holes for putt ‘after spplying fin ‘Nore: Fase rene starts DRAWERPULLS. To complete the draw rs, all that’s left are the bell pulls. Note: I waited to mountthe pallsuntil ‘ofter the finish had been applied and rubbed out, see next page. Firs, to avoid scratching the finish and to make iteasy to see the layout Ines, lapplied tape tothe front ofthe érawers and found the centerpoint, seomargin photo, Then I laid out and Arilled the holes forthe posts and screws, see dletal ‘a above. {drilled these holes slightly oversize since the bail back plate will have to “bend” slightly around the drawer. Now all thats left isto carefully remove the tape and screw the pul in place. 1| decided to use varnish for this end table for several reasons. First, oil using a light brush stroke with the based varnish gives me the best grain, You'l want to apply thin coats, results Ican get without expensive or the finish will run and sag. if it spray equipment. Second, it adds a does, wipe it off immediately with warm, reddish int tothe walnutwith- mineral spirits. Or simply sand or outany special stain, Andit provides scrape itaway aferit dries) alotofprotection oo. used Behlen’s After thefirstenat dries (overnigh, ‘Reckhard Table Top Varnish.” For you'llwantto smooth outthe surface sources, see page 35.) and remove any dust nibs with 400 PREPARE SURFACE & EAN SHOP. Thegan grit wetdry sandpaper and a sanding by sanding theentire end tablet 180- block. Then you can add a couple vit Then | spent some time clean- more coats, sanding between coats. ing my shop. Because varnish takes RUB OUT TOP. One option you might alongtimetodry, yourworstenemy want to consider isto “rub out” the I applied an ail-hased varnish and “rubbed ‘dust Itsetles on the wetfinish and top. This requires more time and out” the top unt it wes smooth as las creates 2 rough surface. elhow grease, but youll end up with ‘sPPIY VARNISH, With the shop clean, a glass-smooth surface. Basically, thicker (applied three or four add you can begin applying coats of var- “rubbing out" is usingfiner and finer tional coats tothe top) That way,you nish. Forthe firstcoat,you may want _abrasvestopoish the surface. (There _won'“cut" through the finish to bare to thindown the varish soitfowsout are avariety ofthese abrasives, but] wood. Formoreonrubbing out afte alitlebetter, butthe techniqueis the like to use pumice and rottensione.) ish, see Woodsmith No. 42. same, I brushed the varnish across _Belore you canbegin polishing, the Final, addled acoat of waxto give > _thegrainfirstio getthe finish on the finish needs to be “built up” so it’s the table alittle more shine. 1 A Legs (4) Wer h- 23% G Cured Edging (3) 4 x2%- 14¥4 M Dromer Guides 4) %4x%e- 18% B Sides @) %x1%- 19% H Top () 34x19 -24% Ni DrawerStops (2) %x%e-4 © Back (1) Wx 1%a- 15% 1 Drawer Fronts Backs (4)!2 x46 - 10% D Web FameRals(6) %x12-16 J DrawerSides(4) ex 4%e-19 __» (4) Nylon Glide Strips E Web Frame Stiles (6) 34x 194-162 K Drawer Fase Fronts(2) 194x4%4- 143% + 2) Bal Puls (2° bore) F Web Fiame Panel (3) % py. - 13» 16% L Drawer Bottoms (2) Yo. -137x19%e + (6) #8 x 114" Fh woodscrews CUTTING DIAGRAM 6° 96" Wolnut (Too Boards @ 4 Bd, Each) se No 121 Woodsmith, bA The dovetails are routed frst (op). Then athick blank can be added (botiom), and the from: cut shape EXPLODED view WOODWORKING Bios NitOu BOW-FRONT DRAWERS Shaping a “bowed” drawer front was pretty straightforward. It was joining the front piece to the drawer sides that “threw me a few curves. I hough itmay sound dificult, there } Riscitanytrickto ‘bowing’a drawer front. Simply start with athick blank, cut the curves on a band saw, and sand them smooth. Its that simple. However the curved fronthas to be connected with two straight sides. ‘And the traditional way to do this is with haltblind dovetails, So how do you go about cutting dovetails on a curved piece? You don't For the end table, I built “square” ‘drawers with dovetails firstand then “bowed! the front pieces later BULD DRAWER. This drawer startsout like most — the 1#"thick pieces are cut to size, see exploded view. (To highlight the dovetails, the drawer fronts are walnut, and the sides are maple, see bottom photo on page 17) Note: When cutting the sides to length, you want to make sure the rawr doesnit end uptoo deep. Take {nto account that athick blenk glued to the front later will add 174" to the depth of the drawer. (I aut my sides 19/-Jong, which left about®A’ between the back ofthe drawer and thecase.) To connect these pieces, I routed ¥#! dovetails with ahandheld router Nore: ote ront stars oye Tonger sre wider then front 16 and a dovetail jig, see Figs. 1 and 1a. ‘Then Isetthe sides and back aside for the time being, It’s time now to works ‘on the drawer front ‘OVERSIZE BLANK. To build up the thickness ofthe drawer front, Tadded a DA"-thick blank (@/4 stock), see ‘exploded view and margin photos at left. And to accentuate the curves cut later I chosea board with agrain pat- ‘Woodsmith Rout dovetails Snalithick Stower pies tern shaped like a “bullseye,” see photo above. Teut this blank slightly ‘oversize and then gluedit tothe jront ofthe front piece. (The blank will be trimmed flush on the table saw later) AA this point, the front Iboks mess sive. But don't worry. The curve gets ‘cat on the inside face as well as the ‘outside face, sothe final thickness of the drawer frontwill only be about A". No. 121TRIM OVERSIZE BLANK. After the giueis dry, the oversize blank can be ‘immed to match the ¥-thick piece. did this on the table sav, but the problem is thatthe oversize piece gets in the way. The solution is to use a ‘thin auxiliary ferice tha the "sick piece can rite against, see Fig. 2. used apiece of 1" hardboard.) To trim the oversize blank, lower the blade and position the rip fence and auxiliary fence so the ¥"-hick piece is dush with the blade. Then clamp the auxiliary fence down, raise the blade, and trim the oversize blanks, seeFigs.2 and 2a. With the long edges of the blank flush, you can quickly trim the ends of the drawer front using the miter gauge and an auxiliary fence. (AT CURVES. Now thatthe front has curves the inside and outside faces by cutting away most of the blank. Laying out the curves was easy. I used the same template that Tusedto make the curved edging, see Fig. 3 and pattern on page 12. Layout the starting points onthe ends and inside face ofthe blank, see Fig. 3a. Then ‘Simply line up the template with the marks and draw the curves. “To cutthe curves, lused the band ‘2, feeding the blenk as smoothly sspossibleJustbe sure tostay tothe waste side of the nes because youl reed to do some sanding later ‘SIND CURVE. To smooth thecurves, used a ltl elbow grease, sanding thepieces by hand, And to make the jbabit easier. used curved sanding blocks, seo Fig. 5. Simply add ‘adhesivebacked sandpaper tothe cut ffs created at the band saw. ‘GROOVE FoR BoTTOM. With the draw- ‘er Font smooth, grcoves can be cut mall the pices for the 14" plywood ‘otiom. And todo this on thecurved fronts, used 2 sit cutter bit with a rub arm (Go it would eut a Ydeep groove), See Fig. Gand margin phoio With the grooves routed, [cut out the drawer bottom, see Fig. 7. Here again, Lused the curved template to lay out the ont edge before cutting it to shape. Then the pieces can be ‘lued iogetherjust as you would wih am ordinary square drawer. No. 121 Cutto waste Sdeoflines Woodsmith A To cura th'-deep groote on the drawer front, 1 used a sot cuter bit and a shop- made rub arm, see page 18, WSHOP NOTES UDG ON lO) 07 | Routing Curves i Theend tableonpageshas | (END © carved edging picces that | | SEQHON cuiven create the drawer openings ® \ | inthe case. What's unique mane ote si about these pieces (besides. | |< Te | the curved isthe bead pro- “au between passes | file that’s routed on both eS the top and bottom edges, Creating the beadsis no A The unique po- problem, The curve rides file on the cirved easily against the bearing edging is created of @ beading bit that’s intwo steps. mounted inthe rovtertable, Fast, the beads refer to page 12, Fig. 12. ‘are rowed. Then However, I wanted to the wood between make the two beads “stand ; the beads ie provd,”soT kadto come up = : removed witha with some way to remove Details (OVERALL DIMENSIONS: Nondle~ Wide crower Tyosizes Sterawers ‘© handle = Removable shelves ‘ortoring bins >. LMM LLL ‘Note: Addtional erdooara neces forshop made bins Drawers pivot open, Gllowngtutaces ‘cantante — side drawer ‘ut then swing open MATERIALS ‘A Case TopwBottom (2) % py. - 15% x29%2 B Case Sides 2) HY. WAX ITs Front Edging (1) 3% x%- % (rough) D Side Edging (1) 3%. x%s- Brough) E Wide Dwr. Ends (6) %4x514-154 F Narrow Dwr. Ends (8) 3% x2"}o - 15% G Wide Dwi. Tops/Etms. (6) 4 x51 - 13% H irrw. Dvr. TopS/Btms. (8) Ye x 2" - 13% 1 Drawer Backs (7) Ye heb = 13¥% x 15% J. Guide Stips 7) Yahobd -Yox 14% K Case Back (1) ‘Yao = 16Phe x 29% L_ Wide Shelves (6) Ux5%-13 M Narrow Shelves (20) Yx 2%6- 13 IN Shelf Lips (33) SUPPLI + (12)#6 x 2" Fh Woodscrews + (56) #6 x 1%" Fh Woodscrews + (44) #6 x 24" Fh Woodscrews: + (98) #16 x%" Wire Brads + (7) 434" Handles w/Screws + (7) File Card Holders w/Screws + (28) #2 x Ye" Rh Brass Woodscrews + (1) Ya"-dia, Stee! Rod (12” rough) Ye haba = Ya x 12%6 WoodsmithCase The vertical drawers inthis project fitin a case, which is really nothing more than a box made of plywood pands.Dadoescutinthe top and bot- tom ofthecasecrestechanrelsforthe drawer pivot pins to ride in. AMES. To make the ease, start by cating the case top/bottom (A)and cease sides (B) 0 size, see case exploded view. Note: To allow the drawers to be pulled out and swung ‘A The sides are set open, the top and bottom of the case back from the top are slightly wider (deeper) than the and bottomso _sies, see photo in marginat left. thedrawerscan When it comes to making the fully open. dadoes in the case top and bottom, there are two things to look for. First you wantall thedadoes to be straight ‘and 90° to the front and back edges ‘of the panel. Second, in order for the drawers to slide smoothly the dadoes in the top and bottom shouid ine up. “To do this, [ound it easiest to cut the dadoes on the table saw, using the rip fence as a stop and 2 miter ‘gauge with an auxdiary fence to guide the panels through the cut, see Figs. Land La, Safety Note:It's okay touse the miter gauge and rip fence togeth- cerinthis case, since you're rotcuting all the way through the workpiece. ABBES, The back of the case is not added until after the drawers are installed. Buta rabbetneedstohecat ‘on the back edge ofthe case panels toholdthe back, see Fig.2. Additional rabbets on the ends ofthe case sides hold the top and bottom, see Fig: 3. ‘The depth of all these rabbets is size to leave an thick tongue, see Figs. 2a and 3a. But the widths are Sized to match the thickness of the workpieces they will hold (" hard- ‘board forthe back and" plywood for thetop and bottom panels). Once these rabbers are made, the case can be glued and screwed rogether, see ‘case exploded view. BuGWNG. To complete the case, two thicknesses ofhardwood edging (C. 1D) are used fo caver the exposed edges of the plywood, see exploded view and photoin margin. Butthe edg- ing on the top and bottom panels servesaiother purposeaswell. tacts as.astopto prevent thedrawersfrom being pulledallthe way outofthecase, SS Son es 30 ‘Woodsmith No. 21Drawers ‘The vertical drawers st in the case like books on ashelf. And like books, cach drawer sides in and out of the case. Butsteel pivot pins mounted in the drawers prevent them fom being, ! pulled out all the way. Instead, the Grawer pivots open on the pins to make it easier o see wnat’ inside ‘Toaccommodate different sizes of storage containers, there are two sizes of drawers, see drawer exploded view. ‘(made three wide drawers and four narrow ones.) But aside from this dif- ference, the construction is identical {or all sexen drawers Bach draver isnodhing morethan ‘slid wood frame wth a hardboard tack. Rabbets on the drawer ends (E, F) hold the drawer tops/bot- toms (G,H), see detail ‘b.’ Rabbets are also cut along the back edze of each piece to accommodate thecase Tack, seedetai'Tused a dado bade andan auxiary fence to make these rbbets. Shop Note: Since the draw cer ends are thicker than the drawer ‘tops and botioms, youl have to adjust the height of the dado blade when ‘cutting the rabbets for the case back. ‘SHELF DADOKS. A lot of kitchens have drawers with internal dividers (for holding silverware). T wanted to do something similar with these vectical drawers, so T cuta series of dadoes cn all the drawer fronts and backs to hold shelves thatare alded later, “These dadoes are 1%" wide and spaced 2' apart. Batyou don'thaveto Jay them out on each piece. Instead, ri Ee <~©0 just use the rip fence on yourtablesawasastop, secFigs. 4 and 4a.And since the dadoesare aidoutinamirrorimage, youcan simplyflipthe workpiece end for end and cut a dado on each end before changing the fence setting or thenextpair ofdadces. ike the case, the drawers are shied and screwed together, see draw- erexploded view. Thena small (3!) chamier can be routed cround the outside edges of each drawer skas. The drawer backs (0) are ‘made outof4" hardboard, cut to size and glied into the rabbetsat the back of each drawer. To hold the backsin y, Auxiliary fence Cut dadoes Yor “elves raver ens END VIEW Aulary fence - ©© er tt No. 121 Woodsmith place while the glue sets up, justdrive some brads around the edge ofeach «drawer, see photo below. Shop Note: Itmight help to drilla small lot hole for each brad beforehand to prevent splitting the hardboard. ‘PVOTPMS. Fach drawerisfitted with pair of steel pins — one in the top and onein the botiom. These pins ride inthedadoesinthe caseandallowthe «drawers to pivot open. Although the pins aren't added until ater, ound it easiest to drill the holes for them at this point, see detail’ above. Y Afierthe drawer frames are assem- bled the hand- board backs con beglued and railed in placeGuides & Shelves ‘The pivot pins side in the dadoes in the case and allow the drawers to swing open, Butto guidethe drawers in and out, Tinstalled a guide strip hove each drawer. ‘CUDESTRPS. These guide strips (0) are nothing more than strips of 4! Inardboard with a sees of counter ssunkcholes drilled in them for mount- ing serews see Fig.6. And toalwthe drawers to pivot freely, the front end ofeach guide stripis rounded. Before the guides strips and draw ‘ers canbe installed, there area cou pe details to take car of First, Leut ‘a groove along thettop of each draw A To make the erforthe guide strip, see Fig. 5 Then, installaion of the the ¥4“Jong steel pivot pins can be crawer guides alot epoxied into the holes in each draw- easier, um the _et, see Fig. 6. (For tip on cuttingthe case upside down pivot pins, see page 19.) and.use framing __INSIALING THE GUIDE STRIPS. The guide square to postion _stipsare just screwed to hetop ofthe the drawers. cease, To make this process easier, I turned the case upside down so I could see what I was doing without having 0 crouch down. Then Iplaced the crawers inside the caseand used them tohelp postion the guide strips for installation, see photo in margin. (Pormore on this, see page 19.) BAG. Now that all the guide strips are installed and the drawers are in place, the beck of the case can be ‘added. The ease back (K) is just a piece of Y'thick hardboard, cut to fit in the rabbeted opening and attached with woodscrews, see Fig, 7 ‘SHAVES. To hold variousstorage bins and boxes, removable shelves (L, ‘A Nothing Hidden Here. Each drawer pul’ out and pivors all the way open so you can see what's msde, 32 © yor ew Gal off front end oF ouide sr ‘M) aremadeto itin the dadoes inthe drawer fronts and backs, see Fig. 8. ‘To prevent storage bins froms forward as the drawers are swung ‘open, Ladded a hardboard shel lip () to the front of each shelf. (The ‘width ofthis ip wil depend upon the storage bins you use) After applying finish, the handles and.card hollers can be added to the drawers, see Fig. 8. Now comes the fun part — finally organizing andsor- ing all those haifempty boxes of screws and fasteners, Sere | | ‘WoodsmithThe wide drawers of the stor. ageunit are sizedto hold com- monly aailzble plastic storage ‘ins (Seepage 35 forsources). ‘These bins are great for large of fasteners. But tainers for justa few fasteners. ‘That's why Ilse to make my Wide Bins ‘The bins for the wide drawers arereally just alargeversion of those used with the narrow drawers. The construction is identical —the dimensions ae No.121 ‘own storage bine. This allows me to customize the size ofthe bins to fit my storage needs. ‘There are three different sizes of bins for the storage ‘nit Short and long versions of anarrow bin fit in the narrow drawers. And a wider, deeper bin fits in the wide drawers. Narrow Bins Forthenarrow drawersofthe case, there are two sizes of bins. Both the long and short bins are constructed the same way. The only difference is in the neth ofthe frontand back rieces, see exploded view. Kerfs cutin the end pieces just a little different, see ‘exploded view below. ‘Theoniy other difference is that the front edge of each bin is beveled to make it easier to All the bins are made out of tempered hardboard — ‘A! thick for the fronts and backs and 1" thick for the ends and bottoms. ‘The fronts and backs are glued into grooves cut in the ends. The bottoms are simply cut to fitinto the opesi- {ng and then glued in place. Si over the front and back of ach bin. But cutting kerfs on pieces this small can be unsefe. So instead, I ripped a Jong blank to match the with get atthe contents inside. ‘To create this bevel, simply eat away the front corner of the bin after it's assembled. I used a band saw to do this, Woodsmitt 1 and 1a. Then [ cut the ind vidual end pieces to length, see Fig. 2. After gluing the front and backpieces between theends, a! hardboard bottom canbe cout to fit in the opening and ‘see Fig. 1 below. ‘The Land sawleavesarough ‘ext, so you'll need to follow it ‘up with 2 little sanding to ‘remove any saw marks, 09OAS ie MORTISING JIG ( uttinga shalow mortise ‘on the edge of a door for butt hinges is tedious work. A router makes the job easter but most cabinet doors aren't thick enough toprovide enough support for the router base. But this simple jig sent in by George Glaeling of Dover, Delaware solves thatprob- Jem, see photo. ‘Theiigis made up offust afew pieces of scrap wood, see exploded view. couple of 1"widerunnere straddle the workpiece ane provide ‘support for therouter base as vell as help to prevent the router from tearing out the wood fibers on the sides ofthe mortise. And a “‘sad- dle” screwed to the top of the runners serves as a fence for the router hase. Before using the jig, place it over a scrap piece cofwood and damp the ru ners in place. Using a roater with 2 4" straight bit, rout a step at the ends ofthe runners, see explod- ed view. The deoth of this, step should match the depth of the mortises youl need for your hinges. To use the jig, place it over the edge ofthe work: piece sothe shoulder ofthe step lines up with one end woxre rh brcodsrow OTE: Spacing bettered fo, Secommodate thiegeror thinner NOTE ue ase Worpieces Seudie to Scapboard the thickness ofdoors to beimorteed of the mortise, see Fig 1, mortise. But if you slide Clanptherunnersandrout the jg, its shoulder won't out the mortise, stopring line up with the shoulder justsbortofthelyoutline of the mortise, see Fig ‘on the opposite end. Instead, position the ji To rout the opposite so the shoulder is 14" shoulder of the mortise, back from the edge of the mortise to allow for the ameter of the router bit, see Fig. 2a. 0 you can either turn the jig around or simply slide it down to the end of the ‘SECOND: Line “Rit Tayout ine No. 121 oSOURCES Supplies for the projects tocenter distance between featured in this icoue are the mounting posts). And. available at local wood- thenyloa tape isabout a" Working storesor the mail thick. These items are avall- order sources at right. able from one of the mail Here's some information order sources atright. you need to know when ROUTER BTS. Besides the purchasing your supplies. hardware, there are sever- alspecia” router bts youll END TABLE need when building the To build the end table on end table.To rout the bead age 6, all the hardware profile on the sides of the you'll need are two bail case and on the curved pulls, somenylon glide tape edging, we used a %z for the drawers, anda few radius beading bit, see Woodscrews. (For acom- sourcesat right. However, plete list, see page 15) _thereare afew other bead ‘The bail pulls we chose ing its currently available hawea2"bore (the center- that will also work, see otBit. A fo" di Ire on the end wble, we wed ogee iletbiroxted the rofle afsi"adusbeading bt. onthe edges ofthe table op Beading Bit. To create the Ogee! WOODSMITH PROJECT SUPPLIES To order hardware kits or sop drawings from Wood- ‘mith Project Supplies, please use our TollFree order lin, ceobelow. Its cpen Monday through Friday from 8 AM to 5PM Ceatral Time. Before caling, please have your VISA, MasterCard, or Discover Card realy. If you would like to mail in your order, call the ‘number below for more information concerning ship- Ping charges as well as any applicable sales tax. 1-800-444-7527 ‘When dering, plese ws Key W121 Note: Prices subject to change after Aprit 1998, No. 122 sources aright, (These bits will have a radius slightly larger or smaller than 4") ‘Theother special bitwe used on the end table was ‘an ogee filet bit that creat ed the profile on the edge ofthe toppanel The bitwe used here was an Amana bit 454114. Thelargediam- eter ofthis bitis 194, and ie cuting height is" with Y"cad. curves. This and Similar bits are available from the sources at right. FINISH, To finish the end table, I chose an oibbased varnish — Behlen's ‘Rock- hard Table Top” varnish, seelist tight Behlen also producesa reduces fo thin- ning the first coat Tis thin: neris designed specifically {or ther varnishes, Tvealso included sever- al mail order sourees that carry finishing suppliesfor rubbing outa finish PICTURE FRAMES you're interested in mak: ing a lt of picture frames, there are a umber of ‘sources that offer framing supplies, see list atright. HARDWARE STORAGE ‘When designing the hard- ware storage system on page 28, we tried to use cory hardware and supplies that are commonly avail- able at local hardware Stores and home centers. Tobuildthe storage sys- tem, you'llneed to find the following items: (4° x12'Steel Rod © (40 Handles w/Screws *() File Card Holders ('ewide) © 28) #2.x 4" Rh Screws Gor cardholders) = #5x2"FhScrews + (60) 5x 148" Fh Screws + 44) 45x94" Fh Screws © (98) #16x%#" Wire Brads PUSTIC BS, Though we included plans for several small, shop-made storage bins, we sized the shelves inthe drawers tohold some plastic bins we found at a localhardware store, They are also available from the source at right. 09 Wood Nef wow on re wes ‘* Over 100 Woodworking Tips Online ‘* Project Plans You Can Download ‘Forums for Woodworking, Tools & Classifieds +» Catalog of Project Kits, Tools & Jigs «Power Tool Reviews ‘Links to Other Woodworking Sites '* Woodsmith/ShopNotes Back Issue Index. ‘Then select the "Woudliet” option rom the menu. Woodsmith MAIL ORDER SOURCES Similar project supplies and hardware may beontered from the following companies: ee Valley So-871-8155 Patrafaom ete MeFech’s 300-443-7997 Plotic arbre ins, Wad bead be, pe files bi nics Sed or. it Ope fit it Rockler Woodworking so0-270.4441 abo be, Ope et, Bu abe hatare, Pitan fromenuppia Woodhaven 800-3148657 Head bai, Ope fies it Wondworters Seppty 200-616-9302 ‘pe fle it, Boho’ Varish Rabbi cat oi, Pidun fromesupolisALAST LOOK FINAL DETAILS . Hardware Storage System. Inside this row of vertical drawers, ddere’s more than eningh space forall your hardware and ‘nal pats. Complete mstructions begin on page 28. A Perfect Miters. Lear howto crate picnare- perfec mites your shop. From asexeate setups to fang tips —all our secres are revealed in the atc on page 24 its bow-front drawers, fluted legs, SF and craved, beaded profes, his end table features ante of interesting wwoshvorking challenges. The plans and sep- bres races end np