The art of garment pattern grading

By : R.S. BALA KUMAR

 Grading is well known as the art of

proportionally increasing or
decreasing a given size pattern part
from one size to another, retaining
everything true to its original form.

The grading network for a block

pattern is also the basic network for
the components which have been
developed from the block pattern.

 There are many techniques involved in the

grading of garment pattern but they all
have one common principle- the basic
grade.
Grading system can be classified in to the
following two broad systems:
1. Track Shift System or Two dimensional
grading.
2. Draft Grade System or Three
dimensional grading.

Two-dimensional system:

Two dimensional grading systems only

grades a pattern for girth and height
and its application is therefore limited
to loose or semi drape garments
because it retains the stock size
suppression throughout the size range.
This system is more apt to a very loose
fitting garment such as a shirt or
blouse with a limited range to say, 1012-14, may be safely graded using a
two dimensional system.

Three dimensional system:

This system not only increases a

pattern for size but it also increases
or decreases suppression in the
following areas:
Bust to shoulder
Hip to Waist
Elbow to wrist

 Three dimensional grading is the optimum

system and should be used whenever possible,
particularly when grading close fitting or skintight garments and garments that progress in
size from 10 to 22.
The most important garment area is the bust to
shoulder suppression quantity.
A good working knowledge of pattern cutting is
required to use a three-dimensional grading
system.

 Types of Garment: There are two

main categories, they are:
Close or skin-tight fitting garments.
Loose or semi drape garments.

 The closer the garment fit, the more

important it is to select a sophisticated
garment grading system which adjusts the
garment with the garment suppression.
If the garment fit is loose the value of
adjusting the garment suppression
decreases and a two dimensional system
becomes more advisable.

Number of sizes:
This may depend a little on whether
a garment is close or loose-fitting,
but it mainly refers to a situation
where the company or firm only
offers a limited number of sizes, the
complexity of the grading system,
etc.

 Types of Fabric: For grading purpose

fabrics may be classified in to two
broad types:
Stretch
Non-stretch

 Stretch fabrics are more for

adjustable and will fit readily to the
body contours or silhouettes and
therefore, it can be employed.
A non stretch fabric has the reverse
effect and must be kept under the
control and in balance through the
size range.

 Grading Techniques:
The draft or multi size (Nested)
grade.
The track or single size grade.

The Draft Grade:

This term applies when the pattern is returned to its
original block form or when the increment is applied to
the actual pattern draft.
This results in the entire size range being super
imposed one on top of another and can also be
described by the term 'Nested' or 'Tracked'.
The individual pieces of pattern for each size are then
picked or traced off onto card.
A draft grade can be either two or three dimensional.
The three dimensional draft grade is considered to be
the ultimate method for applying grade increments.

The Track Grade:

This term is used when grade increments
are applied to individual pieces of pattern
by moving the base pattern pieces along
with the predetermined tracks.
Making the pattern section by section
and thus altering its size.
This system is usually two dimensional
but can be adapted to a three
dimensional system with difficulty.

Following are the steps for manual grading:

1.
To prepare for grading
2.
Grading the pattern
3.
Check the pattern grading
measurements
4.
Completing the pattern.

The tools required for grading are as under:

1.
Parallel rules
2.
Awl
3.
Carpenters pencil
4.
Proportional divider
5.
French curve
6.
Arm hole curve
7.
Tailors square
8.
Notch maker
9.
Grade ruler
10. Measuring tape
11. Colour sketch pen or pencils

Size intervals:
A sizing system is a pre-determined
size interval i.e. the major girth
difference between each size.
The variation in the size is in the
order of plus or minus 2cm then the
logical size interval would be 4cm.
Practically, intervals smaller than
4cm result into more used sizes of
the range.

 Size charts: There are two types of

size charts in normal use.
1. Body measurements: This type of
chart provides the human body
measurements for each size and
these measurements are used as a
basis for constructing a pattern with
the requisite amounts of ease.

 2. Garment measurements:-This
chart gives the details of the finished
measurements, specification for each
size and is used for pattern grading
purpose. A size is a combination of
measurements and each
combination is designated by a
symbol which is a common code
between the apparel manufacturer
and the consumer.

 The 'X ' AXIS and 'Y'AXIS: The x -axis

for body and y-axis for body and skirt
grades would be a line on, or parallel
to the centre back or centre front.
This is always true, if straight y-axis
is a line on, or parallel to a major
girth line such as the bust, waist, or
hip.

 The different types of grading that are still in

usage are:
manual grading,
machine grading, and
computerized grading are still used.
The practice of garment grading is mainly
concerned with efficiently producing dimensionally
accurate patterns.
In order to do this, some basic rules must be
always observed.
There is no hard and fast rule as how to actually
produce the sets of graded patterns and the
choice of working method is also dependent on an
individual's accuracy and convenience.

R.S.BALAKUMAR.
FULL TIME FACULTY,
SCHOOL OF FASHION DESIGN&ARTS,
HINDUSTAN UNIVERSITY,PADUR.
CHENNAI-603103.

THANK
YOU