PROJECT SHEET NO. 3 HEADSATL REEFING: Malcolm Collingridge - M126 MOONSHINE (Newsletter No.32 (Jan.'92) When I bought MOONSHINE two years ago she came with two No.1 genoas (one almost new), working and storm jibs, but no No.2. My mooring is on the River Tamar, about 10 miles from Plymouth Sound, with variable winds and a strong tide, so the gap left by the No.2 was a nuisance. I also seemed to have a boat full of sails. Rather than buy one more I started to look at headsail reefing gear. At first I thought that it would not be possible to use the full size sail, but I discovered that this was not so, provided the drum could be positioned below the deck in the anchor locker. Neither of my genoas were of minimum weight and a sail maker advised me that they were robust enough to take the heavier wind strengths implied. I chose a standard Plastimo 406S as the cheapest suitable and the most widely discounted. This is also available to fit either adjuster plates or bottle screws on the forestay; 1 bought the former. Hunters advised using a heavier duty top swivel from the 6088, as fitted on the Horizon 23, but as the gear came as a package I ignored this for the time being. I also purchased one extra length of spar as the standard length is about 8" (200 tm) too short. Fitting the spar is a question of measuring, offering up and measuring again before cutting back a little at a time. I do not intend to give any measurements here as individual boats may vary slightly and one is playing with inches. The adjuster plate on the drum has first to be shortened until about 3 holes remain (I shall probably cut back to 2 holes this winter to make attachment easier). 1 found that I had to use a lower hole in the glassed-in forestay plate inside the stem, so as to move the stay aft slightly; this altered the geometry and required fresh measurement. ‘The next snag was that the top of the talurit splice on my forestay fouled the inside of the drum. This necessitated a longer forestay, which I had made up after more, careful, measurement. I still have some scope for adjusting mast rake but not much, (I believe I have the correct rake already). I have substituted a mylar halyard to save the length of @ splice and shackle. Assembly of the spar is relatively simple if the instructions are followed carefully; they come in both French and English and were, I suspect, written in the former. Some of the terms used were new to me in both languages but the diagrams were very helpful. When cutting the last spar it is important to note that this cannot be reduced to less than 160mm. ‘The actual spar length is determined by the need to avoid fouling the jib halyard sheave. 1 have taken the reefing line aft from the drum, via a small block attached to the locker floor by a short strop to emerge through the deck at the rear of the locker using a through deck block. Tt then runs to the first stanchion to starboard and through the bottom of the second one to be made fast to the bottom of the pushpit, I am at present using the aft deck cleat for it but will be fitting a separate cam cleat to theoutboard side to the cockpit. The line fouls the front of the cabin top slightly and requires some form of lead to avoid friction and wear. I also found that the tack cringles to my sails were too large and fouled the edge of the hole though the deck. After consulting the sailmaker I had the eye cut away and a smaller one formed in what was left of the wire. This involvedshortening the luff by 3-4" and tapering back to the foot. The sail area lost is negligible. At the same time I had a window fitted, but now doubt that this was really necessary because I find it easier to roll up a little sail for short tacking or where visibility is critical. 1 used the "slugs" provided to attach the sail to the spar, merely whipping them to the sail through the old holes for the piston hanks. I shall be experimenting with a bolt rope led into the spar itself, which may be better. I have not so far fitted ultra-violet strips and will probably use the older sail to destruction before doing 50. The gear included a large round "halyard diverter", I could not find room for this, but have not experienced any difficulty, provided the top swivel is hoisted right to the top of the spar (most important) and the spinnaker halyard is kept well clear. Standing rigging should be kept tight, but over tightening the jib halyard causes the swivel to jam (hand tight is enough).A sharp tug is sometimes required to start reefing, but once the first turn has been made the rest is easy. This may all seem very complicated, but it is really worthwhile. I do carry a spare headsail just in case, but can fold it away out of sight. I do not have to bend on a hoist a headsail every time. I can start with full sail, secure in the knowledge that it can be instantly reduced without leaving the cockpit. Picking up and dropping moorings under sail are now easy (well fairly!), Single handed sailing is much easier, as i hoisting the spinnaker. It is possible that she does not point quite as high to windward, but without racing her against other Medinas I cannot tell; she still points very high, even with the sail half rolled, and I suspect that the better balance that can be achieved makes up for a slightly less efficient sail shape. Apart from the alterations already mentioned, I have not had the sail recut and I do not move the sheet fairlead much unless I am feeling very fussy; part reefing the sail tends to free the leech. Extra tufts further aft would be useful. Only two disadvantages have so far come to light: A. The wind whistles in the spar if there is no sail on it B. Attaching everything to the stem after raising the mast is very fiddly and the spar gets in the way when hoisting or lowering the mast. ‘The slight shortening of the luff puts the sail just out of class, but if absolutely necessary I could add a tiny "rule cheater” for racing!_ NEW FORESTAY With SWAGED EYE TERMINAL 6175 mm SWAGED EYE MbicH COT AWE VO a ON END OF For. sTHY : CLEAR FOREHLn STOP | (SHANK RUNS CrHQU' LOWER.) ————— 3 = BENING OF FuREEN’) / i. R.W.O. RIGGING ADTUSTER 7 CERGES CHAMFERED Co THAT i \T WILL PHSS THe! PRM) ~N 2 f - Bow RIGGING PLATE ae iO; FIFTH HOLE Ot! STAY ERACKET Se. RLGTES BOLTED FATHER Sb LOWERING FIXING PONT BY Bmm aperar, FLOOR OF ANCHOR WELL