Yarn: +6 (6,7,7,88) skeins Sunday Brigadoon 5 ply aran weight in “Stone” ‘or 850 (950, 1050, 1150, 1300, 1400) yards of any other DK weight yarn to obtain gauge. Needles: + US 6 (4mm) 2” circular needles, or size to obtain gauge + US 6 (tmm) Double Pointed Needles, or size to obtain gauge + USB (5mm) needle, or Imm larger than used for sweater for bind off + US G Grochet Hook Gauge: 20 sts, 30 row: 4 inch square Patter for personal use only Additional Materials: + stitch markers 1” buttons 1/2” buttons + tapestry needle Finished Bust Measurements: 34(36, 38, 40, 42, 44) Abbreviations: CO: cast on BO: bind off ke knit k2tog: knit two together ml (pocket increases and back pleating increases): using left needle, pick up horizontal strand between last stitch and next stitch, from the back and knit into the front ml (raglan increases): make one loosely ‘on each side of the seam stitch, by simply knitting under the running thread Without lifting or twisting it p: purl kpk: knit one, purl one, knit one into the same stiteh 3 tog: purl three together pm: place marker rep: repeat RS/WS: right side/wrong side slk2p: slip one knit wise, knit two together, pass over the slipped stitch sm: slip marker ‘TSP: Trinity Stitch Pattern Trinity Stitch Pattern, multiples of 4 stitches plus 2: Row 1: (RS) past Row 2: k1, kl, pl, kl) into next stiteh, p3tog, repeat from * to last stitch, kl Row 3: purl Row + k1, *pStog, (kp L&I) into next stitch, repeat from * to last stitch, k1 Repeat these 4 rows © Amanda Rios 2011Time to Knit Collar: CO 134(138, 142, 146, 150, 154) stitches, using the long tail cast on method, Knit 1 row, then follow the TSP for approx. 5 inches or to the desired length of collas, ending with a WS row, pasl KL, *k2tog, rep from * to last stitch, k1 [68(70, 72, 74, 76, 78) sts} cast on 14 sts, k14, pm, purl to end of row cast on 14 sts, p14, pm, k to next marker, sm, p14 [96(98, 100, 102, 104,106) sts) Row 5(raglan set up row}: begin with row 2 of stitch pattern until you reach marker, sim, p45, 5, 6, 6, 7), pm, p!, pm, pL). pm, pl, pm, p36(36, 38, 38, 40, 40), pm, pl, pm, p10, pm, pl, pm, pl(5, 5, 6, 6, 7), sm, then finish with row 2 of TSP Important Note: You will be working the TSP on the first & last 14 stitches of every row for the entire sweater, creating the button bands. Buttonholes will be an applied crocheted edge. ‘The following instructions are for all stitches in between. Row 6: (RS) *k to stitch marker, m1, sm, k1,sm, ml, rep from * 3 more tim added) Row 7: purl, slipping all stitch markers as you go . k to end (8 sts Repeat rows 6 and 7 a total of times, [296(314, 332, 350, 368, 386)sts]. You can now remove the raglan inerease markers. If necessary continue to knit as established without making any more increases until, when you try on the sweater, the sleeve stitches meet up comfortably under your arms ending with a WS row. Separate for Sleeve: work first 14 stitches as set, sm, k30( 33, 35, 38, 40, 43), slip 60(64, 68, 72, 76, 80) sleeve sts onto serap yarn, k#8(92, 98, 102, 108, 112), slip 60,64, 68, 72, 76, 80) sleeve sts onto scrap yarn, K30(33, 35, $8, 40, 43), finish last 14 sts as set [176 (186, 195, 206, 216, 226) total body sts} Body: Row 1: purl Row 2: knit Rep rows | & 2, until you are at approximately 2 inches from the underarm, or until you reach the top of your bra strap, ending with a RS row wnda Rios 2011 Patter for personal usc only. © AnBack Pleating: Row 1 (WS): work 80 (85, 90, 95, 100, 105) sts, including the I* 14 sts, pm, p16, pm, finish row as set Row 2: work to I back marker, sm, p16, sm, fi Row 3,7: work to 1* back marker, sm, k2, *kpk, ptog, rep from * to 2 sts before marker, k2, sm, finish row as set Row 46,8: repeat row 2 Row 5, 92 work to 1 back marker, sm, k2, *p3tog, kpk, rep from # to 2 sts before marker, k2, sm, finish row as set Row 10: work to 1" back marker, sm, p2, * kpk. kpk, k1, rep from * to 2 sts before marker, p2, sm, finish row as set [32 sts between hack markers] Row 11: work to 1* back marker, sm, * k2, p8, rep from * to last 2 sts before marker, k2, sm, finish row as set Row 12; work to back marker, sm, *p2, kl, m1, k2, m1, k2, m1, k2, ml, k1, rep from * to 2 sts before marker, p2, sm, finish row as set [4 sts between back markers} Row 13: work to back marker, sm, #*k2, p12, rep from * to 2 sts before marker, k2, sm, finish row as set Row 14: work to back marker, sm, *p2, kl, m1, k5, m1, k5, m1, kl, rep from * to 2 sts before marker, p2, sm, finish row as set [53 sts between back markers} Row 15: work to back marker, sm, *k2, p15, rep from * to 2 sts before marker, k2, sm, finish row as set Row 16: work to back marker, sm, *p2, k15, rep from * to 2sts before marker, p2, sm, finish row as set [213 (223, 233, 245, 253, 263) total sts} Repeat rows 15 and 16 until your sweater measures approximately 9 inches from the underarm, unless you've added some length then make sure to adjust to include that extra amount, ending with a WS row. Sweater is about 4 inches from the final length now, so if you are taller, have a longer torso, or just want a longer sweater, you may want to repeat rows 15 & 16 a few more times, just make sure to finish with a WS row. Row 17 - Set up for Inset Pockets: work button band as set, ké (8, B, 12, 12, 12), slid onto scrap yarn, turn work, pm onto left hand needle, cast on 22 sts, turn work, pm, k to first back marker, sim, *p2, k7, pl, k7, rep from * to 2 sts before marker, p2, sm, k unl 44 (44, 44, 48, 48, 48) sts remain on left hand needle including the buitonband sts, slide 22 onto scrap yarn, turn work, pm onto left hand needle, cast on 22 sts, turn work, pm, kB (8,8, 12, 12, 12), finish row as set Row 18: work as set to for button band, sm, p8 (8, 8, 12, 12, 19), sm, work TSP for the next 22 pocket sts starting with row 2, sm, p to first hack marker, sm, #2, p7, kpk, p7, rep from * to 2 sts before marker, k2, sm, p to next pocket marker, sm, work row 2 of TSP, sm, pé (8, 8, 12, 12, 12), finish row as set Row 19: work as set to first pocket marker, sm, work row 3 of TSP, sm, k to first back marker, sm, *p2, k6, pS, kG, rep from * to 2 sts before marker, p2, sm, k to next pocket marker, sm, work row 3 of TSP, sm, finish row as set Row 20: work as set to first pocket marker, sm, work row 4 of TSP, sm, p to next stiteh marker, *42, p6, kpk, p3tog, kpk, p6, rep from * to 2 sts before marker, k2, sm, p to next pocket marker, sm, work row 4 of TSP, sm, finish row as set sts Patter for personal use only. © Amanda Rios 2011Row 21: work as set to first pocket marker, sm, work row | of TSP, sm, k to first back stitch, marker, sm, *p2, k5, p9, k5, rep from * to 2 sts before next marker, p2, smn, k to next pocket marker, sm, work row 1 of TSP, sm, finish row as set Row 22: work as set to first pocket marker, sm, work row 2 of TSP, sm, p to first back stitel, marker, sm, *k2, p5, {kpk, p3tog) 2 times, kpk, p5, rep from * to 2 sts before next marker, k2, sm, p to next pocket marker, sm, work row 2 of TSP, sm, finish row as set Row 23: work as set to first pocket marker, sm, work row 3 of TSP, sm, k to first back stitch marker, sm, #p2, k4, p13, ket, rep from # to 2 sts before next marker, p2, sm, k to next pocket marker, sm, work row 3 of TSP, sm, finish row as set Row 24: work as set to first pocket marker, sm, work row 4 of TSP, sm, p to first back stitely marker, sm, *k2, p4, [kpk, p3tog) 3 times, kpk, p4, rep from * to 2 sts before next marker, k2, sm, p to next pocket marker, sm, work row 4 of TSP, sm, finish row a: Row 25 ~ Pocket Increases: work as set (o first pocket marker, sim, pl *K3, kpk, rep from * to. 1 st before next marker, pl, sm, there should now be 32 sts between your pocket stitch markers, k to first back stitch marker, sm, p2, k3, p17, k3, rep from * to 2 sts before next marker, p2, sm, k to next pocket marker, sm, pl, #3, kpk, rep from * to I st before next marker, pl, sm, finish row as set Row 26: work as set to first pocket marker, sm, k1, p30, k1, sm, p to first back stitch marker, sm, *K2, p3, (kpk, p3tog) 4 times, kpk, p3, rep from * to 2 sts before next marker, k2, sm, p to next pocket marker, sm, k1, p30, k1, sm, finish row as set Row 27: work as set to first pocket marker, sm, p!, k30, p1, sin, k co first back stitch marker, sim, *p2, K2, p21, k2, rep from * to 2 sts before next marker, p2, sm, k to next pocket marker, sm, p1, 30, pl, sm, finish row as set Row 28: work as set to first pocket marker, sm, k1, p30, k1, sm, p to first back stitch marker, sm, *K2, p2, (kph, p3tog) 5 times, kpk, p2, rep from * to 2 sts before next marker, k2, sm, p to next pocket masker, sm, kl, p30, k1, sm, fi Row 29: work as set to first pocket marker, sm, pl, k30, p1, sm, k to first back stitch m: %p2, k1, p25, kl rep from * to 2 sts before next mareker, p2, sm, k to next pocket marker, stn, p! 30, pI, sm, finish row as set Row 30: work as set to first pocket marker, sm, k1, p30, k1, sm, p to first back stitch marker, sm, "K2, pl, (kpk, p3tog) 6 times, kpk, p1, rep from to 2 sts before next marker, k2, sm, p to next pocket marker, sm, k1, p30, k1, sm, finish row as set Row 31: work as sct for first 14 sts, remove marker, p8(B, 8,12, 12, 12), sm, pl, k30, pl sm, p alll sts up to next pocket marker, removing back markers as you go, sm, pl, 430, pl, sm, p8(8, 8, 12, 12, 19), remove marker, finish row as set rker, sm, Note: Continue working in TSP now for the first and last 22 2, 26, 26, 26) sts Row 32 for size 34 only: work as set up to first pocket marker, sm, kl, p30, k1, sm, p2tog, (kpk, p3tog) 16 times, kpk, p2tog, (kpk, p3tog) 7 times, kpk, p2tog, (kpk, p3tog) 16 times, kpk, p3tog, sm, k1, p30, k1, sm, finish row as set Row 32 for size 36 only: work as set up to first pocket marker, sm, kl, p30, kl, sm, p3tog, Ikpk, p3tog) 17 times, kpk, p2tog, (kpk, p3tog) 7 times, kpk, p2tog, (kpk, p3tog) 17 times, kpk, p3tog, sm, kl, p30, klsm, finish row as set Paitem for personal use only. © Amanda Rios 2011Row 32 for size 38 only: work as set up to first pocket marker, sm, kl, p30, k1, sm, pStog, kpk. p3tog) 10 times, kpk, p4tog, (kpk, p3tog) 7 times, kpk, p2tog, (kpk, p3tog) 7 times, kpk, 200g, (kpk, p3tog) 7 times, kpk, ptog, (kpk, p3tog) 11 times, sm, k1, p30, kL, sm, finish row as set Row 32 for size 40 only: work as set up to first pocket marker, sm, kl, p30, k1, sm, p2tog, (kpk, p3tog) 11 times, kpk, p2tog, (kpk, p3tog) 7 times, kpk, p2tog, (kpk, p3tog) 7 times, kpk, p2tog, (kpk, p3tog) 7 times, kpk, p2tog, (kpk, p3tog) 11 times, kpk, p2tog, sm, kl, p30, kI, sm, finish row as set Row 32 for size 42 only: work as set up to first pocket marker, sm, kl, p30, k1, sm, p3tog, (kpk, p3tog) 12 times, kpk, p2tog, (kpk, p3tog) 7 times, kpk, p2tog, (kpk, p3tog) 7 times, kpk, p2t0g, (kpk, p3tog) 7 times, kpk, p2tog, (kpk, p3tog) 13 times, sm, k1, p30, kL, sm, finish row as set Row 32 for size 44 only: work as set up to first pocket marker, sm, kl, p30, k1, sm, p8tog, (kpk, p3tog) 21 times, kpk, p2tog, (kpk, p3tog) 7 times, kpk, p2tog, (kpk, p3tog) 22 times, sm, kl, p30, kl, sm, finish row as set Row 33, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43: work as set up to first pocket marker, sm, p1, k30, p1, sm. p all sts up to next pocket marker, work second pocket same as first, finish row as set Row 34, 38, 42: work as sei up to first pocket marker, sm, k1, p30, kL, sm, *kpk, p3tog, rep from * to 1 st before next pocket marker, kpk, sm, work second pocket same as first, finish row as set Row 36, 40, 44: work as set up to first pocket marker, sm, k1, p30, kl, sm, *p3tog, kpk, rep from # to 3 sts before next pocket marker, p3tog, work second pocket same as first, finish row as set Row 45 ~ Pocket Decreases: work as set tip to first porket marker, sm, pI, *k2tog, kl, rep. from * to 1 st before next pocket marker, p1, sm, p all sts up to next pocket marker, work second pocket same as first, finish row as set Row 46: work as set up to first pocket marker, sin, kl, p20, k1, sm, *kpk, p3tog, rep from * to 1 st before next pocket marker, kpk, work second pocket same as first, finish row as set Ok, so now we are going to hold off on the sweater for a bit to knit our pocket lining. Using your dpn’s, transfer 22 stitches from the serap yam onto one needle, (I prefer to use a new ball of yarn at this point, so you can leave the other still attached to your sweater). Leave about a 12 inch tail on both ends with the new yarn for seaming later. Beginning on the RS, knit in stockinette for 25 rows ending with a RS row. Cut yarn and repeat on second packet. Don’t worry about the dangling needles, it will all get wrapped up on your next sweater row: Now, back to your sweater... Row 47: work as set to first pocket marker, sm, hold dpn with your pocket lining stitches along with your left needle, k sts from both needles together, sm, p all sts up to next pocket marker, work second pocket same as first, finish row as set Voila! Pockets and lining are connected! Paitem for personal use only. © Amanda Rios 2011Row 48: work as set up to first pocket marker, remove marker, p all pocket sts, remove marker, *p3tog, kpk, rep from * to 3 sts before next pocket marker, p3tog, work second pocket same as first, finish row as set Row 49: purl all sts Row 50: BO using the larger sized needle. Rather than cutting the yam at this point, I prefer to go ahead with my crocheted edging to avoid less ends to weave in later. Crocheted Buttonholes: First mark your sweater where the buttons will be sewn. ‘Then single crochet evenly starting at the bottom left, up around the collar, then as your going back down on the right side, when you reach your first button mark, chain the amount needed to obtain the correct size hole for your button, then continue to single crochet, and repeat for each button hole. Note: I crocheted 2 single crochets for every 3 knit rows going up and down the button bands, 3 for every 4 going across the collar, and I worked 3 in cach corner. Sleeves: Transfer sleeve sts onto 8 DPN’s Using 4% needle, pick up 2 sts under the arm, pm, then pick up 3 more sts under the arm, closing: the gap ~ [65 (69, 74. 79, 84, 89) sts] Row 1-5: knit Row 6: k24 (26, 28, 30, 32, 34), pm, k17, pm, k24 (26, 26, 30, 32, 34) Row 7: k to marker, sm, ssk, k to 2 sts before next marker, k2tog, sm, k to end of row Row 8: knit Rows 9 ~ 20: rep rows 7 and 8, until 3 sts remain between markers Row 21: k to marker, remove marker, slk2p, remove marker, k to end of row [4 6 69) sts} Row 22: knit Row 23 - 25: purl (© purl wise with the larger size needle Finishing: *scam pocket sides weave in loose ends block ssew on buttons Go ont and show off your new sweater! All mistakes are, of course, mine, so please bring them to my attention: bobbysoxie@yahoo.com. Pattem for personal use only. © Amanda Rios 2011