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Hasselblack film back cleanup

by Magastrom on September 14, 2012

Table of Contents
Hasselblack film back cleanup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Intro: Hasselblack film back cleanup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Step 1:

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Step 2: Remove light seal, clips and spring rods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Step 3: Remove back cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Step 4:

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Step 5:

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Step 6:

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Step 7:

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Step 8:

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Step 9:

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Step 10:

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Step 11:

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Step 12:

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Step 13:

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Intro: Hasselblack film back cleanup

My Hasselblad film backs don't like cold temperatures. The old grease and lubricants have probably gummed up and need to be cleaned up and renewed. A standard
service job -- except this time I decided to try it myself...
I armed myself with my (expendable) old C16 film back, a service manual (found on Scribd, alas for A12 & A16 only!), tools, and some extra patience.
Tools used:
Jeweler's screwdrivers
Pointy metal tweezers
Time used: 1-4 h
DISCLAIMER: This worked for me, and it may or may not work for you. I am a tinkerer (if that), not a mechanic -- nor am I a Hasselblad expert. This is not the official
Hasselblad procedure for this job, I worked this out for myself. If you decide to try it, great, but I will not be held liable. :)

Image Notes
1. Circular leatherette cover
2. Film advance wheel
3. Fastening screw

Step 1:
Start by peeling off the circular leather piece on the back's film advance wheel.
Unscrew the fastening screw that was hidden behind the leather. I used my pointy tweezers as a small spanner for this.
Remove the advance wheel -- you may need to pry it off, it can be a tight fit.
Peel off the leatherette on the sides to gain access to the fastening screws.
NOTE: On the newer A12 and A16 film backs, these screws are located under the leatherette on the side panels instead!
Although not strictly neccessary I decided to remove the leatherette altogether, so as to not have it flapping about during the rest of the procedure.

Image Notes
1. Circular leatherette cover
2. Film advance wheel
3. Fastening screw

http://www.instructables.com/id/Hasselblack-film-back-cleanup/

Image Notes
1. NOTE: On newer A12 and A16 film backs, the fastening screws are located
under this leatherette, on the side panel!

Step 2: Remove light seal, clips and spring rods

Before removing the back cover:
Remove the 9 screws surrounding the film opening. Note that one screw is longer than the others, it is marked blue in the image. Make note of its position.
With the screws removed, carefully lift off the "frame". Use the darkslide as an aid to loosening it if needed.
Under the "frame" you will see the light seal. Remove it. If yours looks worn and old, have a new one ready for the reassembly. Find new (3rd party) seals on eBay, or do
as I do and make your own from old exposed film and thin self-adhesive foam, folded and cut to size using an old seal as a template.
Lift out the two black spring rods, and the metallic "clips" (note the position of these).

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Step 3: Remove back cover

Unscrew two screws (note: these are longer) on one side and three to the other. Technically you don't need to do this in order to remove the gear cover. However, in
order to actually get the gears out for cleaning it has to be done.
NOTE: Again, on A12 and A16 backs these screws are under the leatherette on the protective side panels.

Step 4:
Remove one screw from the inside (marked red).

Step 5:
Lift off the side panel.
Then remove the inner plate from the inside. (This is actually why you removed the side screws on the cover: the cover may need some prying out in order to get this
plate out.)

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Step 6:
Unscrew the three screws holding the covering plate. The plate is a press fit, and may require a bit of persuasion to come off. Push down (using your screwdriver or
similar) on the gear rods at point B, C and D, making sure they come loose. Especially at point A the fit is tight -- you will need to push down hard on the protruding axle
as you pull on the plate.

Step 7:
With the cover plate off, the first gear to come off is the big one (marked E). Everything is interlocked at this point, so you'll need to push the rod out in order to remove
the gear (see next image).

Step 8:
Working from the inside, push the rod for the big gear (marked E in previous image) out using a pointy object.

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Step 9:
With some careful wiggling, the gear should come out.
Try not to pop out the gear in the lower right (E), or you're in for a surprise: the cog is spring loaded underneath. Use a small screwdriver or similar to hold the spring in
the gear as you slowly remove the gear. If you don't take great care when removing that gear (F in previous image), the spring will pop out with (SPROINGGG!) and
tangle itself. It's no disaster if it does pop out, but it means you have to spend extra time and patience to untangle it and refit it into the gear. It's not difficult: place the
spring "hook" into the slot (as seen above), and gently wind the sping back while turning the gear.
Note for reassembly later: (ADD PHOTO)
slide the spring loaded gear on to its washer (black disc thingy in the next photo). Use a gentle rocking motion when sliding it in place, all the way down. The washer has
a small stop that the spring will catch once in place, allowing the spring to be tensioned. Once in place, tension the spring by rotating the gear (don't remember the
direction, but it's obvious as the spring only tensions one way) and holding it in place while replacing the big gear (the one removed in previous image). There's probably
too much tension and too little tension here, and I have no idea what Hasselblad recommends. I tensioned it something like 1.5 to 2 full turns, it worked for me. Too
much tension and the nylon stopper will wear out. Too little tension and the big gear (that interconnects to the camera winding) will not spring back into its correct
position.

Step 10:
The big gear your removed in previous step is actually two gears sandwiched around two spring loaded stoppers (and a removable rod). If you separate the gears (and
you should if you intend to clean these parts), there's a trick to putting them back together later for reassembly: insert the rod into the lower (bigger) gear, and slide the
top gear on to the rod. Now, using a thin screwdriver or similar through one of the holes of the rop gear, slide the stoppers outward until the top gear clicks down into
place. Simple, but it took me a good while to figure out...

Step 11:
Remove the frame counter plate, two screws. Note position of plate.

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Step 12:
The white L-shaped part is the infamous nylon stopper, that tends to get worn out in backs that have seen extensive use. It may need replacing, but spare parts are hard
to source. It should be possible to replicate one by hand, if suitable material is found. The material looks and feels like HDPE plastic.
Then, basically remove everything else. :)
Uscrew and unhinge the linkage arms, springs, wiggle out gear cogs etc, it's a bit fiddly but pretty intuitive. See images below.

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Step 13:
Stripped!
Yes, there are a couple more parts that could be removed, but I wouldn't bother. For cleaning purposes, this is where I would stop.
Immerse all gears, springs, linkage arms etc in a degreaser, and let them sit for a good while. Rinse in isopropyl alcohol. Short of Isoflex Topas L 32 (grease) and Isoflex
PDP 48 (oil) that Hasselblad recommend, I opted for what was available to me: lithium grease and plain sewing machine oil. I put a minute amount of grease on gear
teeth, and sparingly applied oil to other moving parts and joints.
Reassembly is, as it goes, a reversal of disassembly.

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