ZS OCTOBER, 1915 esver poxatnsox sennins | INATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY HUBBARD MEMORIAL HALL. SIXTEENTH AND M STREETS, WASHINGTON, 0. 0. THTTMANN sont JONE PLLSBURY .. vicermcent GILBERT H. oR bnecron ano eoron JOHN 10 sna ASUS villian eee FLBLEICHELBERGER “asian tmeasunen JOHN OLIVER LAGORCE . associate to1ton GeoRGe W. HUTERIGOW,asisvant seesetent op. austin = 1 SSSSSpecneranr WILLIAM SHOWALTER "ASSISTANT COTOR BOARD OF MANAGERS s913-1915, 19141916 r91s:1917 PRANKLIN K. LANE AUEXANDERGRAMAMBELL CHARLES J. BELL J. Howano Gore ste aa Jon Joy Epson Davio Parenn.o Gu.newr H. Grosvenor incor e Prepenick V. CoviLue Tir of atonal GeoraphicC. HART MERRIAM. Faxes President ‘aati Member Nations Acalomy of EATERS SEE Gaohte ons Sure ‘sae Jonn E. Puuissuey ‘Diadoy of U. 8. eneseelO, P, AUSTIN (0.11 Trermane ‘Coaei porte Saundec ur" ‘Commigsioner U.S. Bureau of Hexey Wire Gromoe Swinss, 30 ee Wirdectioaoee gnarl ScArmy, GRANT SQUIRES ‘To carry out the purpose for which it was founded twenty-six vears ago, namely, “the increase and diffusion of geographic knowledge,” the ‘National Geographic Society publishes this Magazine. All receipts from the publication are invested in the Magazine itself or expended directly to promote geographic knowledge and the study of reography. ‘Articles or photographs from members of the Society, or other friends, are desired. For material that the Society can tse, adequate remuner tion is made. Contributions should be accompanied by an addressed re: turn envelope and postage, and be addressed: GILBERT H. GROSVENOR, EviToR ‘CONTRIBUTING EDITORS. A.W. Geeruy ‘ALEXANDER GRAHAM BELL ©. Harr Memeian Davin Paecritp ©. H, Trermann Huot M. Saint Rowert Houister CHapman Ne H. Danton Wauren T, SWINGLE RANE M. CHAPMAN eal Gxogrpble Soi, Washington,DC” Alrighs reserved ‘conyigt is 7GREECE OF TODAY home to break their long fast, each house- hold having sacrificed’ lamb for the paschal roasting. For days before Easter the roads leading into Athens are white ‘with the flocks being driven for the festal ORREK LAMOR WELL ORGANTZHD ck labor, though extremely well a is meager paid, day laborers receiving ‘no more than three drachmse day (@ little less than 60 cents), while skilled labor in the trades will average hardly more than twice as much, Car- penters, masons, and mechanics gener- ally use the most primitive of imple iments: yet the amount of work which they perform in a day is astonishing. ‘The guilds, or corporations, which cor- respond. to. our labor unions, embrace practically all the manual pursuits, and ‘one of the most striking scenes that’ re- call from my Athens days was the won derful demonstration of the organized guilds, "50,000. strong, who,_marched through ‘the streets of the city in the carly autumn of 1909 and presented to their King a petition embodying the de- mands of the revolutionary leaders of that year. 929 ‘That revolution for a time threatened the throne. Its leaders sent the Crown Prince into virtual exile, where he re- mained for more than a year; and the himself during that period was often of two minds regarding abvlication. But with the coming of Venizelos from Crete, to extricate the Military Lea from’ the ‘parliamentary pitfalls nto which it had tumbled, began the rejtye- nation of modern Greece. Constantine was summoned home and replaced at the head of the army: military reorganiza- i taken up in all branches of the ministries, too, were purged: the constitution. was rewritten, and the ‘country set in the path which fed to the slories of the Balkan wars. ‘The dread ful assassination at Saloniki cast only a byrief shadow across the sun of Hellenic promise, and the recent general ections wve shown that the Greek mind is now fairly freed from the shackles of jeal- ousy, prejudice, and insubordination Which so Tong have bound it ‘Thus Greece of today looks both to the past and to the future, From the ages that are gone she has derived a splendi tradition. From the days that are to ome she doubtless will take nev glories ARMENIA AND THE ARMENIANS By Hysrex Donanpson Jenkins Aurion oF “HULEARIN AN 1s Woatex,” 1 Tan National Geographic Magazine, “APRIL, O15 RMENIA is a word that has widely At ferent connotation for different peoples, To us Americans it isa Vague territory somewhere in ‘Asia Minor; to the makers of modern it means nothing—there is no such place; to the Turks of a few years ago it was a forbidden name, smacking of treason and likely to bring’ up that buga than which Abdul Hamid IT feared nothing more, antes it were “liberty”; but to nearly two mil- ions of Russian, Persian, and Turkish subjects it is a word filled with emotion, tone that sends the hand to the heart and calls up both pride and sorrow. Armenia is not easy to bond at any petiod of history, but, roughly, it is the tableland extending from the Caspian Sea nearly to. the Mediterranean S Its limits have become utterly tid; the waves of conquering Persians and Byzan- ines, Arabs and Romans, Russians and ‘Turks have flowed and ebbed on its shores until all Hines are obliterated, Ar- menia now is not a State, not even a geographic unity, but merely a term for the region where the Armenians live (see map, Page 359).330 LARGER THAN GERMANY AND FRANCE, At the height of its power and at its agveateat extent the ancleat Kingdom of ‘Armenia consisted of $00,000. square miles of fertile tableland, extending f the Black Sea and the Caucasus tains to Persia and Syria. It rises until reaches 8,000 feet above the sea, then it ascends abruptly to the snow-capped peak of Mount Ararat, which is 1 feet higher than Mount Blane, The land is fertile, rugged, and beautiful. A. native of the country writes of it with pardonable enthusiasm thus: “Armenia is the motherland, the eradle ‘of humanity, and all other Tands are her daughters: but she is fairer than any ‘other, Even her mountain tops of per petual snow are a crown of glory: the Sun ses her brow with the smile of mornin vers Euphrates, Tigris, and many others from the jewels of her crown, ‘These rivers peneirate to every comer of the land, traverse many hun- dreds of miles to give life to the Belds, the vinevards, and the orchards, to turn the mills, and finally close their course in the Caspian Sea, the Black Sea, and the Gulf of Persia carrying the bounty and ‘good-will messages of the motherland to her children in remote parts—to Persia, India, and Russia. From the same inex haustible reservoirs she feeds her noblest lakes—Sevan, Urumiah, Van, and the rest.” ‘WO MELONS 4 CAaMEL’S LOAD ‘This country of Asia Minor is a fine grazing land and an excellent agricultural region. It is so fertile that two melons are said to be a camel's load, and it pro- duces grapes, wheat, Indian cor, barley, ‘oats, eotton, rice, tobaeco, and stigar the vegetables that we know in Mesias aquinces, apricots, “nectarines, peaches, apples, iid plums. ‘The Armenians ‘export silk and cotton, hides and leather, wine, dried fruits, raisins, tobacco, drugs, and dyestuffs. Tn minerals, too, the country is rich, Coal, silver, copper, iron, and other min- crals lie beneath the surface, but the Turkish government has not allowed them to be exploited. ‘THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE, James Bryce thus speaks of the land: Tees es ced Dek ae or gift of Nature; a fertile soil, possessing variety of ire and situation; smd sad equile. cinete) mikes of silver, and coal in the moun- tains; land of ‘exquisite beauty, which twas once studded with flourishing cities and filled by an industrious population, ibat,now, from the Espira to the phorus all is silence, poverty, [ogi eh ryh ibe Game a village on the shores, hardly a toad by which commerce can pass into the in- terior, You ask the cause and receive from every one the same answer—mis- government, of rather _no government; the existence of a power whieh does noth: ing for its subjects, but stands in the way when there isa chance of their doing something for themselves, ‘The mines, for instance, cannot be worked. without a concession from Constantinople.” NO MRIRY CIVILIZATION Into the soil of this beautiful and his- toric land the Armenians have thrust deep roots, No brief civilization is th dating back to Mayflower or even Nor man Conquest, but one that is almost ‘coterminous with recorded history; and every Armenian feels behind him this vast antaity, giving him personal diz nity and great national They be- Sets hasoey withthe Cartref 1 which they claim was in Armenia, basing the claim on the naive statement that the land is beautiful enough to have included Paradise, and also laughingly asserting that the apples of Armenia vere worthy to tempt a most Epictirean Eve,_ Their first recorded ancestors they find in the book of Genesi ‘Russian Armenia consists of the prov- inces of the Caucasus, and further south the sun-baked plains leading to the base of Mount Ararat, where, in the midst of fields, vineyards, and cultivated fields, lies Etchmiadzin. A taste for the arid red plains of Asia Minor, with their occastonal_ beautiful tree oF still rarer blue lake, is, I think, an acquired one, althorigh T confess to shar- ing the love of the native for this brilliant land, where the soit is so red and the sky334 so blue and each tree is like a distinct personality, I know how homesick for this land the Armenian can be when he gomes to our shores; I know how the iridescent lights fall on rolling lands, and hhow the gay flowers dot the fields in springtime, and how so many” towns nestle in the “shadow of a great rock.” But no one could fail to admire the beauty of the Caucasus at first sight. Te is hard to conceive a more wonderful journey than that over the Georgian road, from the Georgian-Armenian_ city of Tiflis up into the fastnesses of the ‘mountains, culminating in a face-tonface iew of stiperb glacier-clad Mt, Kasbek, then down through the historie Gorge of Dariel to the plains once more. THE ARMENIAN eHURCH SGatnotics It differs from the Greek Church very little in creed, but, unlike the Greeks, the Armenians are not theo- ically inclined, andl lay little stress on They have always beet, how= ever, devotedly trinitarian. ‘The Armenian Church has been perse- ceted not only by Moslem and Fire-wor- shipper, but also by Roman and Greek; yet Its one of the beantiful characteris. ties of this ancient church that it never erscutes in is turn, Te fellowships ith all churches, holding that Chris- ianity means brotherhood through Jesus thrist and gives no warrant for oppres- sion or anathema. ‘The music and ceremonies are natu- rally very primitive, dating back to the time when the courtyards of the church ‘were the dramatic centers of the parishes and moral and spiritual lessons were taught through simple drama, Such services as those of Holy Week, ob- served even in our own time, illustrate this: for instance, the washing of the dis- ciples’ fet and the eral raising of esas by pulleys up a tower. The Greek Church preserves similar primitive trionic services. Armenians love. thei church devotedly, and say that although they may get more instruction from a Protestant sermon, their own services THE NATIONAT, GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE seem, to them warmer, touching their ‘emotions and helping them. ARMENIA’S ROME. ‘The center of the Armenian Church is at Etchmiadzin, in the Caneasts Moun- tains, where stand the fine od cathedral alt eight ha rs ago in res Noavidba, crus caines stuns col or mounted by am octagonal tower, with courtyard and outbuildings, and its altar in the center, has been a model for Ar- tnenian churehes ever since; while the little chapel to Saint Gregory, in form a canopy, has become the type of the pe- culiar porches that are ustally attached to Armenian churches, The cathedral contains a miraculous picture of the Vir- gin, many sacred relies, and the sacer- ‘otal oil, with which every true Arme- nn mst e anointed at his birt, his marriage, and just before his Tia ol ieclbunat to? use to erery Armenian church. There are also at Etchmiadzin, vestments, tanks of celebrated fish, a workd-famed library ‘containing 3,000 illuminated manuscripts, and some oft portraits, Schools and an ecclesiastical college educate the Arme- nian youth for the priesthood. Here under the shadow, of Mount Ararat lives the “Catholicos,” or pope of the Armenian ‘Church, a stately man in splendid robes and hood, accompanied when he goes out, by a bodyguard. in scarlet and gold. The present Catholicos George Vi Sureian, the 127th Catho- icos in regular succession from Gregory he Illuminator. Such isthe oldest Chri tian Chureh, Before we turn to the history of the {Armenians fetus conser their race and characteristics. RESEMBLANCE TO THE FEW ‘Their appearance is definitely eastern: swarthy, heavy-haired, black-eyed, with aquiline’ features: they look more Ori- ‘ental than Turk, Slav, or Greek. In gen eral type they come ‘closer to the Jews than to any other people, sharing ‘with them the strongly marked features, prominent nose, and near-set eyes, as well as some gestures we think of as characteristically Jewish. ‘The type is £0‘The Armenians are the workers of the Nea to that of the peoples around ther, they hav seat capacity for work and well-directed fr pronounced that to those who are akin to them they seem often very handsom« while to westerners they seem a little tor foreign-looking. Of course, the type is not always preserved; white skins, even an oceasional rosy cheek may be’ seen, and there is a small number of fair” haired and blue-eyed Armenians. ‘The resemblance to the Jews does not stop with physical features, for the fate of the two peoples has been sufficiently similar to bring out common traits. Like the Jew, the nian has. been op- pressed and pers and has devel oped a strength of his own people, 335 wi CREAT LOND OF 1 East. Added to a business ability in sharp contrast to their Asatte ne sity rarely seen elsewhere, Like the Jew, he s learned to bend, not break, before the oppressor, and to succeed by artifice when opposed by force. How else had he survived? Like the Jew, he has de- veloped strong business instincts, and like him he has a talent for languages, a power of concentration, and unustial artistic gifts, Both Jews and Armenians are very clever actors ‘These resemblances have made many scholars question whether the two races are not akin; whether the Armenians may not be descended from the lost Ten ‘hes. of Israel. But the philological basis for such an hypothesis is lacking,ARMENIA AND THE ARMENIANS: and the Armenians and their language are adjudged to be not Semitic, but Aryan. ‘My Armenian friends are to be found largely among my Armenian students at Constantinople, some fellow - teachers, and a few faithfl servants, ‘When the present college was founded, a mere primary school called the Home School, its first students were Armenians eager to get an education. For many years the Armenians were the most nu- ‘merous of the nationalities present. S tari, where the college was situated until it moved across the Hosphorus last year, isan Armenian quarter, so that long after Greeks and Bulgarians came in larger ‘numbers into the boarding college the day scholars were predominantly Arme- nian, ARMENIANS AS STUDENTS As students the Armenians differ among themselves, ranging all the way tesa athe gi. Elta, fo averaging high in their studies. Of 1 three students who distinguished them= selves in. philosophy. ima dazen years, tne was Turkish, one was Greck, and one Armenian. In English composition, while perhaps the cleverest and most humorous papers were written by Greeks, and the stories with the most action and vim by the Bulgarians, those showing the most grace and fancy were written by Armenians. Oriental girls rarely enjoy mathematics, butt the one student who craved mathematics that the professor that department had to. form special classes to give her all that advanced American colleges offer was an Arme= nian, The college chorus and choir always contained many Armenians, and in my day the special soloist on all occasions was an Armenian who sang like a bird, with natural style. “She has since studied music in Paris, and is now doing concert ‘work in Constantinople, Like other Ori- cota, the Armenians have. dramatic il well remember one strongly girl who acted the double rile of priest and king in a San- serit play with marked effect. [recall ‘that same year a pretty Armenian git 337 ‘who played the part of Toinette in “Le Malade Tmaginaire” with more charm and piquancy than T have seen in any American production of that classi ‘The pronounced features and splendid eyes and hair of so many Armenians make them extremely effective in tab- leaux. POLL OF SENTIMENT: Armenian women are full of sentiment Ecorse ees gy Inve bah repressed by harsh experience they are unrestrained in expression. When the news of the death of a_ schoolmate reached one of our dormitories, the girls wept and even screamed with sich af don that one of them became actually il anil had to go home, Yet under torture and persecution these women have shown ‘marvelous patience and entrance. ‘Where there is so vigorous a national pride, some personal conceit would nat- uurally follow. That is not always the ‘ase; some of the most modest and hum- He of women are among my Armenian friends; but a characteristic expression of complaceney that one often hears “He is a fine man; he likes me.” In these young girls does one find any reflection of the tragedy of the race? ‘Yes, one does, althongh many. an. Ar- menian girl of prosperous family is as ‘gay and light-hearted as a French girl, Let me tell of a few of our girls, giving borrowed names, Filore was a sparkling girl, with jet ind. shining: eyes and teeth, She was delightfully responsive in class, although her quick appreciation was rather shallow. » She was always. happy and care-free. Her father was high in ‘Turkish favor and she had! apparently no consciousness of her people's sufferings. Zabelle was another happy girl, but of quite a different type. She was small and plump, and maintained a position at the Ihead of her class only hy’ constant hard work, One would never associate her tragedy in the remotest way. But when, it 1908, people's tongues were loosed, “the press freed, and people seemed to wish to express their long pent-up emotions, Zabelle wrote a com position. “She began in her clear roundAN ARMENIAN PAMILY OP VAN swarthy. heayy-haired. black ny other people, shar fas wells some gestures we think of as characters have always wanted to tell about but T did not dare; and there followed a horrible tale of pers mocent young ma Heigoohee was touching in her ex- pression of the joy that it gave her af 1¢ revolttion of 1908 to be able to say wong girls who had es of their own, sich as the Tish and Trkish girls, ‘One of the sweetest souls T ever knew a Protestant from ssion schools in Cilicia She was older than most of the girls, a in character and suffering. was very delicate pealing, and absurdly grateful fi appreciation of beauty was very great ed. w tee sauiline “Greek “Tn genes img with them the strong! mosque Sancta Sophia, in Constantinople, with a class of gitls, “She wandered off by herself, and-when Tf was sitting q her eyes, bee autiful.” Annitza was rls who cam from the district of Adana, where the massacres took place in the spring of ‘or several weeks we gave these ‘a separate place to eat and sit while iting for news of their loved ones. One day I met Annitza in the corridor and uttered a light word, Her face stopped me, and I said quickly news, Annitza?” She made a fort ‘at self-control, then lespite tl girl from familiarities with a teacher, threw her arms around my neck and wept, And that was not the whole tale. The week added four more to the list tims in her family. Patient Annitza, with her soft pathetic eyes, alwaysseemed to me a type of the Armenian that some one has been able to put into vietim, her heart the love and faith in man and A DISILLUSIONED sO God that her cruel childhood seemed to, crushed out Hrypsimé was not a type at all; she was a strangely individualize! girl, but No. account of my Armenian friend the product of suffering and revolution, would be complete without, mention o One would not have thonght it to sec a, faithful servant for 3o years in sehool. eager to learn, docile, appreei- at Constantinople College. Dear’ Ho: ative of all little gaities, patient in zanna, of the beatific name, the Madonna her poverty and humiliation.» She was eyes, and the ample who gave scarcely over 13 years old, a preparatory “my teachers,” as she student, but her compositions revealed att feeling, who sent us tered, disillusioned heart, She also tions with ise fer 1908 and and welcomed us back with and revo- of greeting, began to express herself pottred hution with bitter vindictiveness and hate. To you, F On the day of th devoted service to the Americans, to you, Heypsimé ran off and through you to the Armenian nation When I T send my salaams, she shea ather gave his life f in; why should P ery to save mine?” T do not know what has A typical Armenian town of the better become of her, but T have often lardezag. near the Gulf of Nico anna, living your life « ped class jiARMENIA AND THE ARMENIAN meidea. This isa town of narrow streets, paved with great stones and bordered by dark, narrow houses made of the wn- slaked brick of the Sc jptures, but with the straw much in evidence. ‘The edges of the streets serve as gutters, and the door- steps over them are littered with chil dren, ‘There is one school-house which is'n sort of social center, serving as Tec- jure-room or concert hall at need. ‘There Church, tie fields are filled with mulberry trees wherewith to feed the hungry silk ‘worms. On the edge of the town are an English orphanage, founded ater the massacre of 1856, and an. American col- lege for boys, the latter being the great center for enlightenment for the neigh. orhood. The fields are fertile and well tilled, but beyond them rise beautiful hills,” whence’ descend the -maranding Kuro reap where they have not sawn he people are largely agricultural, though there are many of them engaged in the intellectual and business interests of the town. The women wear Oriental costumes—bloomers, dark bodices folded feross their breasts, hair braided in two tor more braids, often dyed. with henna, tund when on the street a kerchief over the head. Most Christian women in the interior of Turkey find it, safer tov when abroad. In Constantinople the mmenian women dress like Europeans rather more showily,, ‘The men of lezag dress like the ‘Turks, in loose col- less coats and the red fez, but in Con- stantinople dress like Europeans, The ie ‘considerable. intellectual activity Tardezag, and some noted revolutionaries have gone forth from that town, AN ARMENIAN VILLAGE, ‘An, Armenian village of the primitive sort is Chalgara, When an American missionary brought report of this wretch- ced little Separated from its neigh- hors by the impassable roads, where the people were lost in ignorance and dirt, an Armenian lady, grasuate of Constan- ple College, offered to go and. live with the, “Sh ok th ana disgusting life; she is teaching the people to read and write, to be indgctriogs and 843 honest, to grow vegetables and make clothes, to serub their houses and say their prayers. Such is the work a con- seerated Armenian can do for her people. ‘The best-known. Armenian towns are Erzeroum, a fortified town containing ir remains. of the Seljuk. Turk ie sea Bhi, not far from Van; Van itself, on the beautiful blue lake of Ne sti sanads Destboar, Mavast, acer Mately Mount Tareas; Targas and Nia, in the same district of Cilia, and Manavan, Taio thee towne the ealation is partly Christan, partly Stostem, with enough armed Kurs to tify the Armeaians, Oper the from tier, within. Russian Armenia, Hie Exvean find Etshmiadzin with the cy of iis, which i fargely Armenia Ose He gue Armin ok bata heap of ruing, was An in Ci ivich was excavated inthe last centary ind shows traces of a high ciitzation Hore are tobe seen eeaatas of conics roofed churches and massive walls 4010 0. feet high, Ranked by many round erent tee tng os deep, gurges: Yelk Honepor, Black Hsu’ decorative "sculptures inthe churches, rude carvings in the caverns, td faint remains of eblored frescoes i fate an ‘ae development of 'n0 me onier, nayee’s TamUTE James: Bryce, in his “Transcaucasia “Ararat,” writes of Ani (ste p. 331) ites thontments leave no duit that the Armenian people may be foclued in the small number of races who show themseltessuscepble of the highest cu ture. ‘They exhibit the Armenians as able and sympathetic intermediaries. be- tween the civilization of the Byzantine Empire, with its legacies from that of Rome, and the nations of the East. They: fealty to. the traghe suddenness Wilt which the ‘development of the race was arrested at a time when their capacities tine Fone wee cme best fruit.” "The city Of Ani dh not fast long. Tt fel ins the needa of te Bye ad was destroyed not long after. Its fate is an‘Prous by Steen Vas H. Troms LATE PROFESSOR Hy MEZJIAN ren of A and. Professor of Physics in Central Turkey otlexe sadly symbolic of the fate of Armenian hhomes from that time to our own, WOUND ARARAT Emerging from tra a distinct Armenian people appears about 1000 B.C, dwelling on the table-lands near Ararat. Having no ni the State was seldom independent, but vas subjugated in torn by. Babylonia the Medes and. Per eft | felt, however, onal development. Cone (quest meant Hite more than tribute, "The ‘Armenians boast of a proud culture dur- the ancient period and Fines of noble The Armenians w ; and were one of the few re never Hellen- Tt is in the early Middle that we of the West call “dark to the Near East was a period of great attains its highest position, and it is through Christian 's contribution to the worl. In the year 310 A. D., 15 years before the establishment of the Greek Church, the, Armenian Church was founded by or Gregory the Muminator, and Bbc coe tie tabeet of Eine: the East. Gregory was baptized n relatives im his childhood, yy isan interesting one, telling of an early marriage, the birth of two sons: ing’, of iradates’ persecution of Gregory. be- se he would not agcept the old god of years in prison; of his release in sponse to a vision ; his miracles; the con: version of Tiradates and the baptism of Armenians, until in eight ia was fully Christianized m was adopted by the State. 4s