A Place to Go Pleasantly - In search of the bucolic creek of their memories, Chuck Royster and his wife Cecelia make a pilgrimage to the Potomac's Mattawoman Creek. Indeed, they find the pastoral setting they remember, along with some fresh, friendly faces, and a bit of interesting history. Eden indeed.
A Place to Go Pleasantly - In search of the bucolic creek of their memories, Chuck Royster and his wife Cecelia make a pilgrimage to the Potomac's Mattawoman Creek. Indeed, they find the pastoral setting they remember, along with some fresh, friendly faces, and a bit of interesting history. Eden indeed.
A Place to Go Pleasantly - In search of the bucolic creek of their memories, Chuck Royster and his wife Cecelia make a pilgrimage to the Potomac's Mattawoman Creek. Indeed, they find the pastoral setting they remember, along with some fresh, friendly faces, and a bit of interesting history. Eden indeed.
os ‘THE NOTION OF “PEACE AND QUIET” IS RELATIVE, OF COURSE. AMONG US ARE FOLKS
‘who €onsider an anchorage tranquil only if theirs is the only boat init. The arrival of another boat,
¥en if it's the very model of unobtrusiveness, ruins everything. And two boats? Well, forget it.
News a bloody beehive. As much as | empathize with that frame of mind, my defi
n of
= _taNdhlity is alittle more forgiving. Maybe it’s because I tend to measure the places [ go in my
boat against the noisy weekday life | leave behind—trucks rumbling and clattering, radios blaring,
~ sirens wailing, people yammering into their cell phones. Compared with all that, a dozen boats
sharing a hurricane hole is nothing short of Eden. Furthermore, I'm accustomed to boating with
young children aboard, and, as any parent can tell you, when it comes to kids and their content-
ons established, I'm here to
= by Cruck RovsTer
photographs by Sra Jerrota na Star na yrs det of
oe, Va, pacdng around te
wide at Smatvoot State Part.
ppasiz age Michele Swaer, and
hr usbend Set, ot Woodbridge,
Ve, pating ine Smttwoed Sate
Parkon ter 1985 3¢-ot Svoran
(top pot); an the 1760 homme
of General Wiliam Smaluood at
Smavoad State Part.
Pesg pages Cana pose tng
over Watton Cee; an (ins)
a eas leaving Wangan, 0.
tor qulter waters
ofthe watershed, the upper Potomac—specif-
cally, allitle cove on Matawoman Creek,
‘hich isa slighty depth challenged but lovely
hidey hole on the Maryland side ofthe river
across from Virginia's Occoquan Bay. Years
ago, when our kids were younger anid not
‘deeply embarrassed to be in our company, my
\wife Cee and [hau taken them there many
times, had been one of our favorite Potomac
‘etaways—peaceful and quiet enough for the
grownups, but als lively enough to hold the
‘Kids’ interest And last summer, as Cee and |
‘cast about for places to goon High Rati!
Floozie, our 6-foot Dora, we remembered
that ite spot and resolved to revisit it—to see
Fit was the same as eve, and perhaps to
conjure a memory or two.
‘Aller the inevitable few delays and ale stant,
‘early on a bright, cool and breezy September
‘morning, we found ourselves pulling out of our
hhome slip at James Creck Marina, tucked in
‘behind Washington's Fort McNair at the mouth
‘of the Anacostia River. So0n we had Floazie on
the Potomac and pointed downstream, past Old
‘Town Alexangtra, under the mammoth work
in progress tat i the new Wilson Bridge, and
‘Past another eye-popping project on the Mary
Jad shore—the gargantuan business commes-
Cal residertat marina development known a5
[National Harbor, a ful formed port ty hugging
44 Cresiroue Bay Mactan June 2008
below te bridge. The no-wake markers on the
south ie ofthe bridge gave us just enough ime
fora sling gawk; then we fred up oozie's
twin 44 and headed south in earnest.
Some 15 nautica miles and thre sweeping
siver bends later, the yellow bluff Oceoquan
Bay came into view onthe Vega side, teling
usthat we'd soon see the geen “51” and, just
a couple of miles below that on the opposite
Shoe, the wide and inuiing entrance to
Matawoman Creek. Unt the late 17h century,
this had been the home, asthe ceek’s name
‘sugges of the Mattawoman people (he name,
earned means “a place to go pleasant”)
“They Were one of many sub-bes ofthe
Piscataway Conoy culture that had been pre
dominant in what is now Southern Mayland
‘Hunters and fishermen forthe most pat, the
Matiawomans and thes elow Pscataways
‘ha a siilar culture to other groups inthe
region-—the Delawares, Nanticokes and
Powhatan, fr instance—and they spoke a
lait of te widespread Agonauian language.
ike thee neighbors, they also had frequent
ruin with tres fom the noth, specifically
tne Susquehannocks, quoi and Senecas.
‘And the ate 17-cetury, was one ofthese
confics that brought the Mattwomans’
emise—teped along, no doubt by the insu
ofthe European imasion, name smallpox.
Nowadays its most US. Nay tritory—
«especialy onthe north ie of the creek’
‘entrance onthe peninsula that some charts
‘dently as Corawalls Neck. There you'l find
{he sprawing naval support base that counts
among its tenants the Naval Surface WarfareCenter (which explains the long, narrow danger
zone a mile or s0 offshore inthe Potomac)
The Naty also owns a few ofthe islands in
Mattawoman Creek, and has more facies
(om the south sie ofthe creek, but we were
headed fora different sort of facility on the
lower sie, namely the state-owned Sweden
Point Marina, which is pat of the surrounding
628-cre Smallwood State Park and what
‘would be our base forthe day's visit.
First, though, there would be abit of un-
scheduled socializing (which tured out to be
the order ofthe day). As we motored slowly
past an anchored 32 oot Carver—the center of
‘an idylic sumsmer scene, complete with squeal
ing laughing children diving from its swim.
platform—one of the two men standing on the
alt deck called outto us. “Where are you guys
from?” he asked, We told him where we'd
‘come from and how we used to come here
‘with our kid, which led to more cha, which
Jed to them inviting us to tie up and visit for
‘ while. The gregarious skipper tuned out to
be Bob Pickett, a retired Army colonel from
Fredericksburg Va, who has been coming here
‘with his children, and now his grandchildren,
Since the late 1980s, The other fellow was his
son-in-law, Brian Alexander, father ofthe three
aforementioned squealing laughing diving chit
‘en (Samantha, Ethan and Emily). Pickette’s
wife Tery and daughter Nina soon emerged
from belowdecks, where they'd been taking a
_much-deserved break from lfeguard du.
“(The Mattawoman] hasn't changed since
Bob and I would bring Nina and her sisters
there when they were young.” Terry told us,
remembering the days when was Nina hersl,
‘nother children, jumping from the boat—a
26-f00t sailboat in those days. Asis 0 often
the case among fellow boaters, the conversa
tion came easy and we could have sat there
and gabbed al day. But, feting the day slip
ping through our fingers, Cee and finally
thanked the Pickettes, etl, for their hospitality
and climbed back aboard Floozie to continue
ur exploration.
More easy hospitality awaited us atthe
‘Sweden Point Marina gas dock, in the form of
‘marina manager Peggy LeFleur—born in
‘Oklahoma, raised in Texas and as knowledge
‘able about the marina and park as she is full
‘of energy. “This place is a fisherman's dream,”
she told us, explaining the dozens of hotrod
fishing boas that were beginning to congregate
Creswweune Bay Mactan June 2008 45