Technical Information Coloured denim Wr 2406 uty 1989 (As) LU Continuous dyeing of warp yarns with Indanthren® and Basilen® dyes J & YU ; YU Textile and Leather Dyes and Chemicals BASF1 General Coloured denim, in which the warp yarn has been dyed with Indanthren or Basilen dyes by the processes described here, displays the following advantages: — excellent contrast effects after the wash-down owing to the good ring dyeing, - wide range of brilliant shades, ~ optimum fastness with regard to washing out and fading in domestic laundering, = good to excellent light fastness. 2 Coloured-denim process with Indanthren dyes 2.1 Equipment necessary Owing to their small liquor volume, open-width dyeing ranges (slasher type) are more suitable than rope dyeing ranges. For the dyeing process itself, 3-4 heatable dip becks are necessary. The heating can also be car- ried out externally by means of a heat exchanger in the liquor circulation system. For the aftertreatment, at least three becks are necessary, of which the last two must be heatable. 2.2 Dyeing processes For continuous dyeing with Indanthren dyes on indigo-dyeing ranges, we recommend two dyeing processes. 2.2.1 Rapid-fixation process This process is used mainly for small dyeing lots or also for sample lots. The small liquor volume (1 or 2 dip becks) allows good flexibility when it is necessary to change over to another shade. ‘The rapid-fixation process provides better penetrated dyeings compared to the process described under 2.2.2 “Dyeing from the vat” and thus less contrast after the wash-down treatment. 2.2.1.1 Pigmentation + g/l Indanthren dye 3 g/l Primasol® NF cold, immersion time 5-10 seconds, liquor pick-up 60%. Replenishment of the becks is regulated by a level control.2.2.1.2 Fixation 30.0 mi/ caustic soda 38 °BE 0.5 gf anthraquinone 2.0 gl Dekol® SN 50.0 mI/ pigmentation liquor (not in the replenishing liquor) 15.0 g/ Hydrosulfite Conc. BASF 1-2 passes, 70 °C, an air passage is not absolutely necessary, liquor pick-up 90%, strengthened replenishment necessary. 2.2.1.3 Aftertreatment Rinse cold, Oxidize at approx. pH 9 (acetic acid) with 2-3 mill hydrogen peroxide 35% (55-60 °C) or 5 gf Ludigol® (70 °C) The replenishment of 150-200 /hour is 10 x stronger. Owing to the high amounts of caustic soda and sulfite that are carried forward from the dyebath, the amount of replenishing liquor added may need to be increased. Rinse hot, 2.2.2 Dyeing from the vat This process is mainly used for large dyeing lots. It produces an optimum ring dyeing. Dyeing is carried out in the same manner'as for indigo, in either three (IN dyes) or four passes (IW dyes). Each pass consists of dipping — for at least 7 seconds — followed by squeezing and an air passage. 2.2.2.1 Pretreatment 2.2.2.1.1 Causticizing Causticizing may be carried out, but is not absolutely necessary because ~ in contrast to sulfur dyes - Indanthren dyes inherently produce a good ring dyeing. 18-20 °Bé caustic soda 5 g/l Leophen® MC cold, immersion time 10 seconds. The replenishment is regulated by a level control. Rinse hot and cold in at least 3, or better 4-6 becks. 2.2.2.1.2 Prewetting 3 g/l Primasol NF cold, immersion time 5-10 seconds. The replenishment is regulated by a level control. Rinse cold2.2.2.2 Dyeing A stock vat, such as is used in dyeing with indigo, is not necessary. The Indanthren Colloiso!® types are finely dispersed dyes, which are added in the form of an aqueous dispersion via a metering pump direct into the liquor circulation of the dyebath or to the mixing tank. They become vatted very rapidly following their addition to the dyebath, The Indanthren Colloisol types are stirred into water of max. 40°C at a maximum concentration of 200 g/. The resultant dye dispersion is stable for a period of at least one week ~ but it must be stirred to prevent the dye from settling out. The Indanthren Colloisol Liquid types are miscible with cold water in all proportions. The same conditions apply for the storage of the dye dispersion as for the Indanthren Colloisol types. The caustic soda and Hydrosulfite Conc. BASF are prepared in a separate container and added to the dyebath via a second metering pump. Preparation of the dyebath: vs» Q/_ Indanthren dye 12 mI/ caustic soda 38 °Bé 5 g/l Hydrosulfite Conc. BASF* pH 12.5 40 °C for IW dyes 50 °C for IN dyes 2-3 g/l hydrosulfite excess 2.2.2.3 Aftertreatment ‘The dyed warp is aftertreated in the same manner as described for the rapid-fixation process under Point 2.2.1.3. 2.3 Dye selection Suitable Indanthren dyes for the coloured-denim process: Indanthren Yellow 5GF Indanthren Blue CLF Indanthren Golden Orange G Indanthren Cyanine B Indanthren Orange RRTS Indanthren Brilliant Green FFB Indanthren Brilliant Red LGG Indanthren Brilliant Green GG Indanthren Red FBB Indanthren Brilliant Green 4G. Indanthren Brilliant Violet RR Indanthren Olive Green B Indanthren Brilliant Violet 3B Indanthren Olive MW Indanthren Navy Blue G Indanthren Brown LBG Combination dyeings are also possible, * The amount of hydrosutfite used in the preparation of the bath must be higher than the hydrosuifte excess during the dyeing process because a certain amount is necessary at the beginning to vat the dye. ovBASF Brilliant Indigo 4B-D 150% can also be dyed by the process described under Point 2.2.2. Cf. also Technical Information Bulletin “Dyeing with BASF Brilliant Indigo 4B-D 150% on indigo-dyeing ranges”, No. TVT 231. 3 Coloured-denim process with Basilen dyes 3.1. Equipment necessary Owing to their smaller liquor volume, open-width dyeing ranges (slasher type) are more suitable than ball-warp dyeing ranges. The equipment must satisfy the following requirements: = immersion times of at least 7 seconds, ~ at least 9 dyeing or impregnation units, — heating facilities in the 4th (3rd) beck, - 2 heatable soaping units. Heating can also be carried out externally by means of a heat exchanger in the liquor circulation system. 3.2 Dissolving the dyes Basilen F dyes are water-soluble reactive dyes that are supplied in the form of low-dusting powders. The dyes are dissolved by strewing them into water of approx. 80 °C. With larger amounts of dye, the dissolving process is facilitated by using a high-speed stirrer. The concentrated dye solution should not be allowed to stand for any length of time, but diluted by stirring it with cold water. The Basilen F dyes have a higher solubility in the absence of salts and water-hardening substances. 3.3 Preparation of the cationization liquor The cationization agent Cyclanon® DR can be diluted with cold water in all Proportions. The deaeration agent Leophen M is a water-insoluble liquid which is, however, self-emulsifying and therefore readily dispersible in water. Laventin® LNB dissolves readily in cold water and has an excellent wetting action at low liquor temperatures. 3.4 Guideline recipe Beck 1: 30-40 g/l Cyclanon DR 0.2-0.5 g/l Leophen M 0.1-0.5 g/ Laventin LNB temp. 25 °C liquor pick-up: approx. 30-40% Beck 2: rinse (if necessary)Beck 3 ... g/l Basilen F dye 25-40 g/ common salt temp. 25 °C liquor pick-up: approx. +20% Beck 4: 120-200 mi/I NaOH 38 °Bé 120-200 g/l common salt temp. 95 °C _liquor pick-up: approx: + 5% Beck 5: rinse warm Beck 6: acidity with acetic acid Beck 7: 19 Kieralon® B High Cone. temp. 98 °C Beck 8: 1g Kieralon B High Cone. temp. 98 °C Beck 9: rinse 3.5 Preventing dye-precipitation If there is the possibility that excess cationization liquor might be carried forward into the dyebath, the reliability of the process can be improved by conducting a rinsing treatment between the cationization and the applica- tion of the dye. The rinsing process eliminates the risk of the dye being Precipitated (formation of the water-insoluble compound of Cyclanon DR and the dye). An application of at least 8 g/kg Cyclanon DR is necessary to obtain the optimum depth of shade and fixation. For this reason, it may be necessary to increase the concentration of Cyclanon DR in the cationization bath when this is to be followed by an intermediate rinse. 3.6 Dye fixation The reactive dye adhering to the surface is first bound covalently to the fibre by alkali. Fixation in the Basilen coloured-denim process is achieved by an alkali-shock treatment with a hot caustic soda solution. Fluctuations in the temperature of the fixation bath lead to variations in the degree of fixation, which in turn can be responsible for differences in the shade or depth of shade. 3.7 Aftertreatment of the dyeing Following the fixation treatment, the alkali, salt and unfixed dye must be washed out by rinsing, acidifying and soaping. To prevent splitting of the dye-fibre bond, the textile material must be soaped under neutral to weakly acid conditions (pH 6-7). es eo3.8 Ring dyeing In the Basilen coloured-denim process, the degree of ring dyeing can be controlled by means of the auxiliary system. The extent to which the dye Penetrates to the inner parts of the yarn depends on the wetting-agent addition. Increasing the temperature of the rinsing bath between the cationization treatment and the application of the dye results in greater penetration of the dyeing into the warp yarn. 3.9 Strength of the replenishing addition to the dye pad The strength of the replenishing addition depends on the yarn quality, the procedure, the dye-liquor addition and the residual moisture content of the yarn before the dye application, 3.10 Dye selection Suitable Basilen dyes for the coloured-denim process: Basilen Yellow F-RL Basilen Yellow F-3RM Basilen Orange F-3R Basilen Red F-RM Basilen Red F-3RM Basilen Violet F-5R Basilen Blue F-R Basilen Turquoise Blue F-G Basilen Brown F-BR Combination dyeings are also possible. “La ta bl ul Un wy Blue and coloured denim Dye | Pretreatment _ | Dyeing and fixation process ‘Aftortreatment class traigo [wet |ringe [oye —— Indanttven [wet [Rinse [Dye tL -- Onsdee [Rinse Biliont: Ba tncag0 Basien | Cation: | (Rinse) Oy pad | [rsaton fF ‘Aciaty | Soap [Soap | Finse zation (Air passage not necessary) ANote The information submitted in this publication is based on our current knowledge and experience. In view of the many factors that may affect «processing and_application; these data do not relieve processors of the responsibility of carrying out their own tests and experiments; neither do they imply any legally binding assurance of certain properties or of suit- ability for a specific purpose. It is the responsibility of those to whom we ‘supply our products to ensure that any proprietary rights and existing laws Ww and legislation are observed. rine Nd) Cc BASF Aktiengeselischaft Marketing Textil- und Lederchemie D-67056 Ludwigshafen Printad in Germany