Work Live France

International Living’s Guide to
Working and Living

in France:
The Ins and Outs
written by
Rose Marie Burke
and prepared by the staff

of International Living
www.InternationalLiving.com
International Living’s Guide to Working and Living in France:
The Ins and Outs
Published by Agora Ireland Publishing & Services Ltd.
Copyright © 2004 by Agora Ireland Publishing &

Services Ltd., 5 Catherine Street, Waterford, Ireland.
Written by: Rose Burke

Publisher: Kathleen Peddicord
Managing Editors: Lynn Chestnutt and Robbie McDonald
Assistant Editor: Emily Furlong
Graphic Designers: Susan Redmond & Ray Holland
Cover photography courtesy of Photodisc.com
Printed by Victor Graphics
ISBN 0-9547754-2-2
120R0014B4
No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means,
electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and recording or by any information storage or
retrieval system without permission of the publisher. While every effort has been made to provide
accurate, up-to-date information, the authors and publisher accept no responsibility for loss,
injury, or inconvenience sustained by any person using this book.
International Living’s Guide to
Working and Living

in France:
The Ins and Outs
Table of Contents
Introduction ..........................................................................................................9
A word about telephone numbers and prices ..............................................................10
Chapter One: Adjusting to France ..................................................11

Do I have to learn French? ..........................................................................................11
Donna’s story ..............................................................................................................12
Debby’s story ..............................................................................................................13
Joan’s story ..................................................................................................................14
My story ......................................................................................................................15
Getting acculturated ....................................................................................................16
Meeting French people ................................................................................................16
Help for the culture-shocked ......................................................................................17
Useful links..................................................................................................................17
Chapter Two: The Three-Month Dip ............................................19

Mable’s three-month dip..............................................................................................20
When is the best time to come? ..................................................................................20
Logistics for the dip ....................................................................................................21
What should I do for three months?............................................................................24
Leaving the City Of Light ..........................................................................................24
Our office in Paris ......................................................................................................25
Useful links..................................................................................................................25
Chapter Three: Learning the Lingo ................................................27

The big language schools ............................................................................................27
Other language schools................................................................................................28
Conversation groups and partners ..............................................................................28
Tutors ..........................................................................................................................29
Language vacations ....................................................................................................29
Useful links..................................................................................................................30
Chapter Four: Residency and Work Permits ........................31

How do I apply ............................................................................................................32
Tourist visa ..................................................................................................................33
Visa de long sejour ......................................................................................................33
Carte de sejour ............................................................................................................33
You’re on your own ....................................................................................................34
The paperwork ............................................................................................................34
Applying for a carte de sejour ....................................................................................35
Procedures for EU nationals........................................................................................36
Permanent residence and work permits ......................................................................36
Carte de commercant ..................................................................................................37
Special rules and exemptions ......................................................................................37
Becoming an EU national............................................................................................38
Marrying a French citizen ..........................................................................................38
Students with a French resident parent ......................................................................39
Becoming an au pair....................................................................................................39
Coming to France as a visitor......................................................................................39
Détaché status..............................................................................................................40
Becoming a student ....................................................................................................40
Working for a French company as a manager or executive........................................41
Working at international organizations........................................................................41
Becoming an intern, trainee, or volunteer ..................................................................42
Setting up your own business......................................................................................42
Working black, white, and gray ..................................................................................43
Retiring to France ........................................................................................................43
Other recommended reading ......................................................................................44
Becoming a French citizen ..........................................................................................44
For more information ..................................................................................................44
Useful links..................................................................................................................45
Chapter Five: Job Hunting in France ............................................47

The job climate ............................................................................................................48
Salaries ........................................................................................................................48
The European competition ..........................................................................................49
Professions requiring French credentials ....................................................................49
Working at U.S. firms in France ................................................................................49
Working at embassies in France ..................................................................................50
Working at French companies ....................................................................................50
Employment agencies and headhunters ......................................................................51
Temporary work agencies............................................................................................51
American Church bulletin board ................................................................................52
French job culture........................................................................................................52
Real life working in France stories ............................................................................53
Useful links..................................................................................................................57
Chapter Six: Creating a Business ....................................................59

Consultant or company? ..............................................................................................59
Stuart’s dilemma ..........................................................................................................59
Becoming a travailleur independant ..........................................................................61
Creating a company ....................................................................................................64
Creating a business presence in France ......................................................................66
Creating an association................................................................................................66
Useful links..................................................................................................................67
Chapter Seven: Making the Move ....................................................69
Don’t bring the appliances, but do bring ....................................................................69
What about the furniture?............................................................................................71
Finding a mover ..........................................................................................................71
Relocation companies..................................................................................................72
Finding accommodations ............................................................................................74
Reading a classified ad ................................................................................................74
Temporary lodgings ....................................................................................................74
Long-term rentals ........................................................................................................75
Telecommunications and utilities ................................................................................76
Paying bills ..................................................................................................................77
Internet access..............................................................................................................78
Driving you mad..........................................................................................................79
Pets ..............................................................................................................................81
Useful links..................................................................................................................82
Tips for keeping in touch with home ..........................................................................82
Chapter Eight: Education ........................................................................83

Preschool through high school ....................................................................................84
Secondary education....................................................................................................86
Study-abroad programs................................................................................................88
Advanced certificate studies: Melissa’s solution ........................................................88
Continuing education ..................................................................................................89
Distance learning ........................................................................................................91
Volunteer learning........................................................................................................91
Useful links..................................................................................................................91
Chapter Nine: Health Care and Insurance ..............................93

Obtaining health insurance ..........................................................................................94
Finding doctors ............................................................................................................95
Dentists ........................................................................................................................96
Having a baby..............................................................................................................96
Emergency services ....................................................................................................97
Prescriptions ................................................................................................................97
Alternative medicine....................................................................................................98
Useful links..................................................................................................................98
Chapter Ten: Money and Finance ....................................................99

The euro ......................................................................................................................99
Exchange rates ............................................................................................................99
Banking in France......................................................................................................100
Do you need checking and savings accounts?............................................100
The art of checks ........................................................................................101
Carte bleue ..................................................................................................101
Choosing a bank..........................................................................................102
Opening an account ....................................................................................103
Keeping your home accounts......................................................................104
French savings products..............................................................................104
Choosing an investment adviser ................................................................105
Buying a French home? ..............................................................................106
Useful links ................................................................................................107
Taxes............................................................................................................107
Insurance ....................................................................................................108
Chapter Eleven: English-Speaking Organizations 109

Alumni groups ............................................................................................110
Charitable groups ........................................................................................111
Cultural and political groups ......................................................................111
Health and educational groups ....................................................................112
Social and support groups ..........................................................................113
Religious institutions ..................................................................................114
Business groups ..........................................................................................115
Veterans groups ..........................................................................................115
Groups outside Paris ..................................................................................116
About the author..........................................................................................119

Comments from Guide Users......................................................................120
7
Working and Living in France
8
Introduction
by Rose Burke
You are reading this guide because of your interest in working and
living in France. Welcome to the club! France is home to an estimated
130,000 Americans and many more foreigners from other countries.
We are all here for the same reason. Once upon a time, we fell in love
with France. Our dream became to live, study, or work here some day.
I wrote this guide from my personal experience, my work as a jour-

nalist, and from the stories of my friends and others. I’ve included these
stories to illustrate how it’s really done, not just how it might or ought to
be done. Sometimes living and working here involves strategies that, shall
we say, circumvent the system––a great French tradition. To protect the
privacy of my sources, I’ve used their first names or pseudonyms.
Working and Living in France: The Ins and Outs is also designed to be
part of a broader community effort. It started as the website, AngloFiles,
co-produced by Stephanie Kidder and I, a pioneer site that provided
information for English-speaking foreigners in France. In the spirit of
AngloFiles, this guide directs you to the great resources of the expatri-
ate community, which are increasingly found on the Internet.
While I cannot be responsible for mistakes on referenced web

pages, I am for the accuracy of this guide. To ensure that my references
to French law are accurate, my publisher had some of the original con-
tent reviewed by lawyer Sam Okoshken, a U.S. lawyer practicing in
Paris. I have tried my best to cover all the bases. If, however, you still
have questions about working or living in France after reading this
guide, I will be glad to personally answer them.
A good starting point for specific information regarding your per-

sonal situation is to contact the French Consulate and a professional
9
specializing in French immigration in your home country. If you are in

France, consult your prefecture (police station) or a professional special-
izing in immigration. We recommend Jean Taquet, author of The
Insider Guide to Practical Answers for Living in France. For personal
consultation, contact Jean Taquet, e-mail: taquet@insiderparisguides
.com. Contact information for lawyers is available in the Guide for U.S.
Citizens Residing in France published by the U.S. Embassy in Paris.
This guide has a U.S. focus but tries to be as inclusive as possible.

I realize that France is home to foreigners from countries all over the
world, but I felt that writing for all of them would be impossible. If you
are from a country other than the U.S., you will certainly find the guide
useful though not necessarily applicable in all cases.
When I came here eight years ago, the adjustment was difficult.
Information was hard to come by in those pre-Internet days, and, as is
usually the case, I didn’t know what questions to ask. In writing this
guide, I give you my 20-20 hindsight so as to prepare you for a soft
landing in France.
A word about telephone numbers and prices

All Paris phone numbers have 10 digits, beginning with (331).
(Outside Paris and the Île-de-France, numbers start with another prefix,
such as 02, 03, and so on.) When dialing from within France, dial all
10 digits. When dialing from outside France, dial the country code (33),
then the Paris prefix (1), then the eight digits which follow the (331).
Prices throughout the guide are quoted in euro. At time of writing,

US$1 = 0.82 euro.
10
Chapter 1
Adjusting to France
Everyone has heard of culture shock but few, on coming to Paris,
believe it will happen to them. That’s because the shock of a new cul-
ture is not just psychological––it’s also physiological. In those first few
weeks, the adrenaline flows. Everything is new. Your body is hit by
thousands of new stimulants a day. You’re on a high that you believe will
last forever. It’s the same high you experience as a tourist. Pretty soon,
you’re tapped out of adrenaline. Exhaustion sets in. You feel a little
down. You might even want to pack up and go home. The ups and
downs, if you survive more than a year in a foreign country, gradually
smooth out and life settles into a routine.
To beat culture shock, it’s helpful to realize that integrating into the
French way of life takes a great deal of time. Most Americans believe
that they’ll be fluent in French and French-ness in about a month or
two. Becoming fluent in the French culture can take a lifetime, espe-
cially if you come here with an attitude that the American way is better
and that the French are behind the times. Perhaps they are…but maybe
they like it that way. The longer my husband and I stay here, the more
we like the French lifestyle.
Do I have to learn French?

One way to beat culture shock is to join ‘em, and there is no better
entrée than the language. Some expatriates believe it isn’t important to
learn French. If you are a tourist, well and good. Merci, bonjour, and au
revoir might get you through, but if you plan to reside here, your level
of French should be commensurate with the length of your stay. If you
11
are going to live permanently in Paris head for Fluency 900. If you’re
only here for three months, set your sights at Functionality 101.
If you want a professional job, you’ll more than likely need a flu-
ency in oral as well as written French. Some U.S. job seekers believe that
their American skills will be such an asset that the French will tolerate
their learning the language on the job. That might be true if you are
high-powered, high-tech, or with a multinational company. Remember,
though, that you have a lot of qualified English-speaking competition
from Britain and Ireland and they, unlike non-EU nationals, have the
automatic right to work in France. There is also competition from the
multilingual Nordic countries, where people have impressive job, lan-
guage, and people skills. Even if you snag a job despite your weak lan-
guage skills, life outside the office will suffer as you’ll be cut off from the
culture: French newspapers, books, movies, theater, restaurants, and
ordinary French people. That would be a shame.
Yes, you can learn much through immersion, but that’s assuming
you know the basics first. We Americans tend to inflate our knowledge
of foreign languages. Those awful language-school placement tests are
certainly a wakeup call! You are a fledgling if you can order a baguette
in a bakery. You’re conversant if you can order an airline ticket over the
phone. Fluency is being able to discuss the drama of a Renoir film in a
noisy café with a group of French people. You want to hit the ground
running rather than spend the first year learning the basics and puzzling
over cultural differences.
That said, there are many ways to adapt to the new culture, ranging
from the laid-back to the hardheaded, 100% immersion technique. Check
out the following personal accounts about how it is actually done:
Donna’s story
Donna, a native Californian, has been living in Paris for over 20
years and works as a professional researcher. She adapted to Paris on
her own. As she says, “I did not go to a support group. There was good
reason for this. In 1965-66, there weren’t any… We first lived in
France for nine months… We arrived on Dec. 1, 1965. We did not
have to suffer jet lag––in those days transatlantic steamers were still
12
Adjusting to France
running at reasonable prices.
“On the advice of our concierge, I enrolled our five year-old daugh-
ter at the local école maternelle (preschool) cold turkey. I told her that for
the first few weeks she would not understand what people were saying
to her, but she would learn. We were somewhat concerned for most of
the year, because when we asked her if she was learning French, she
always told us no. It was only at the end of the year, when we met some
of the other parents, who were stunned to learn that we were not
French, that we knew she had been speaking French a long time. She
just didn’t realize it.
“I had no friends, but this did not really bother me a great deal. I
had had almost no friends in our California suburb. I did not really
enjoy the suburban housewife and mother way of life, which was stan-
dard at the time, and thus had never been able to make many friends.
Instead, I opened up my intellect. During that year I discovered, quite
by accident, French history and, in particular, the Second World War
period, the German occupation of France, and the Vichy government.
It was an interest that has continued to this day, only now I have turned
it into my profession. I never did adjust to American suburban life. In
fact, after living in Paris, I found it even worse than before…when we
got the chance to move to Paris permanently, I offered no objections.
Quite the opposite.”
Debby’s story
This freelance journalist came to Paris from the U.S. with her hus-
band and teenage daughter in the early 1990s.
“When we left Washington, ‘A’ (who would kill me if I used her real
name) was 13 and had long straight hair and a pleasant, forgiving
demeanor. Everyone rushed to tell us how lucky she was to be moving
to Paris at such an ideal age. It would give her a second language,
expand her horizons, and alter her awareness forever. No one warned
us that we might be creating a monster.
“These days at the breakfast table I confront a tall (well, taller than
me), thin, sophisticated Parisienne with masses of thick curly hair, a
13
closet full of interesting clothes, and a quintessentially French inability

to suffer fools gladly…and she isn’t exactly asking us to pass the tartines
(buttered bread). French girls, it seems, never eat bread and butter, pre-
ferring to tackle the seven-hour school day with a cup of weak tea. If
you think it’s hard speaking French after 45 years as a mono-linguist,
try speaking French with a walking authority on pronunciation right at
your elbow. I now take my phone calls in another room.
“I should quickly add that living abroad has brought us together as

a family. When push comes to shove, after all, we only have each other,
and on Friday nights it’s either find an American film all three of us can
enjoy—or contemplate the frightening thought of seeing a film only one
of us can understand.”
P.S. Last year, Debby moved back to the U.S. after her daughter
merited a mention très bien (very high honors) on her bac (high-school
exit exam). This is very rare, even for a French student.
Joan’s story
Joan arrived on her own from the U.S. in June 1996. As a corpo-
rate librarian, she had begun to openly fantasize about moving to Paris
after life as a suburban housewife and mother. As she says, “Be careful
about your fantasies, or they may become a reality before you are ready.
“One day a vice president of my company told me he had heard I

was thinking of moving to France. The company had won a large con-
tract in England and would like me to do part-time consulting in
Europe if I could be there within two months...
“In Paris I checked into a small hotel and told the desk clerk I would
be there for five days or until I found an apartment. He said it might take
a little longer, but they would try to help me. After three weeks I was dis-
couraged enough to wonder why moving to Paris had seemed like such
a good idea. I missed my family and friends at home. I envied the
Parisians I saw casually coming in and out of their apartment buildings,
while I had only my tiny hotel room. Most of all, I worried about the
money, that seemed to be pouring out endlessly for this little room.
“Every day the hotel staff asked me how things were going, and I
14
Adjusting to France
told them, because I wanted to tell someone. I began to learn their

names and we started to have conversations. One of the maids told me
about a trip to visit a daughter in Portugal. The desk clerk mentioned
that he had a degree in art history and brought in a book he thought I
would like to read. The manager told me that after I found my apart-
ment I could still use the hotel’s 24-hour fax service.
“Gradually I realized that these French people were my family, and

the hotel my home. They encouraged me to speak French and asked me
to check the English grammar in their latest brochures. In fact, one of
them even gave me the ultimate assistance when he alerted me to a
nearby apartment that was to become available. So now we are neigh-
bors, and coming to France again seems like [it was] a good idea.”
My story
When I came to France with my husband, we formulated a one-
year plan with an option to stay for five. John secured a job at an inter-
national organization. He filed for visas and we received our residency
permits upon arrival, but mine didn’t allow me to work. (France is now
considering giving trailing spouses of employees at international organ-
izations working papers.) If I only had a year, it would best be spent
learning the language. So I did, but at the same time, I looked for a job.
Piece of cake, I thought, but after several failed attempts, I realized that
the opposite was true. So I decided I’d keep up my skills and make con-
tacts by freelancing.
I had three months’ notice before my move to Paris. With vague

memories of my high-school French and a couple of French courses
taken here and there, I needed to get to grips with the language
again…and fast. I took a course at Alliance Française (www.fiaf.org) in
New York, which wasn’t as serious as I had hoped. The pluses, howev-
er, were the other students (one of whom was also heading to France
and is still a friend today) and the school’s library, which carried the
French newspapers. (Remember, that was the pre-Internet era.) Rental
ads in Le Figaro (www.lefigaro.fr) helped me to figure out the going rates
for apartments as well as how to interpret the lingo. To help me locate
the apartments, I purchased my little red book, Paris Par Arrondiss-
ement, which lists all streets and has detailed arrondissement maps. (You
15
may purchase the book at most newsstands in France or through an

online bookseller; search using the terms “plan de Paris” and “par
arrondissements.” Armed with that book and Le Figaro, I was able to pin-
point exactly where I wanted to live prior to my arrival in Paris.
A colleague clued me in about FUSAC (www.fusac.fr), a magazine

filled with classified ads for the English-speaking community in Paris.
There are all sorts of ads: for furniture, appliances, housing, and servic-
es ranging from French-English conversation groups to yoga instruc-
tors. For some reason I dismissed the publication until I got to Paris—
a mistake
I have been lucky to learn about the French culture through my

work as a freelance journalist in which I review restaurants and write
about the quirky side of French life. It took years, but we now know the
baker, the butcher, pharmacist, and beautician, and they know us inside
and out. Now that we have had our baby, striking up conversation with
the French has become easier.
Getting acculturated
The more you know about French culture, the less the shock. Learn
everything you can about France including its history, geography, and
current affairs. Did you know that France has a high, but declining,
unemployment rate? That labor shortages exist and are predicted to
deepen? North Americans live in countries that are short on history
whereas France lives in its past. Find out about the French and how
they differ culturally from Anglo-Saxons. Don’t assume that the French
will adore your native customs. Some studies show that business and
social interactions with the French are among the most complicated on
the planet! Books by Polly Platt (www.pollyplatt.com) like French or Foe
or her newest one, Savoir Flair, will put you on the right social footing.
Meeting French people

It can be hard to meet French people. It’s especially hard for the
“trailing spouse” (one who follows a spouse who has found a job). It’s
also hard if you have small children and are essentially housebound,
16
Adjusting to France
though babies attract a lot of attention. It’s easier if you live outside
Paris, are a student, have children in a French school, have a job in a
French or French-speaking company, or even have a dog! Dog walkers
love to compare notes. One of the best ways to meet French people is
through organizations, clubs, or associations. Ask at your local town
hall about area activities.
Some people promise to ignore all English speakers and only

socialize with French people. This strategy could leave you lonely for a
long time, especially if your French isn’t up to par. As for myself, I
trailed a husband who worked in an English-speaking organization
staffed with people from all over the world. We would have been silly
to pass up the chance to meet these people, whose common language
was usually English, for the narrower possibility of meeting only French
people. Then, too, if you avoid English speakers in France, you cut
yourself off in practical ways. At the very least, your fellow English
speakers have a wealth of experience about living here and are usually
generous about sharing it.
Help for the culture-shocked

If you find yourself seriously affected by culture shock, don’t hesi-
tate to obtain help. There is an English-language crisis line in Paris
called S.O.S. Help, tel. (331)47-23-80-80 that operates from 3 p.m. to 11
p.m. daily. There are first-rate psychological services through the
Counseling Center at the American Cathedral: www.us.net/amcathedral-
paris (look under “Ministries” in the “About Us” section).
Useful links
France-Amérique, website: www.france-amerique.com. The American
edition of Le Figaro, published in New York.
Irish Eyes magazine, website: www.irisheyes.fr/index.html. Published

for Irish expats in Paris.
U.S. Department of State, website: www.state.gov/r/pa/ei/bgn

/3842.htm. Background notes on France.
17
Cultural Services Office of the French Embassy in the U.S.,

website: http://frenchculture.org.
American Citizens Abroad: website: www.aca.ch. A nonprofit asso-

ciation dedicated to serving and defending the interests of individ-
ual U.S. citizens living worldwide.
Military Woman: website: www.militarywoman.org. For women in

the U.S. military based near and far.
18
Chapter Two
The Three-Month Dip
Anyone thinking about a move to Paris should first take a fact-find-
ing trip. I recommend a three-month stay, especially if you plan to find
a full-time job, establish a business, or become some other kind of per-
manent resident of Paris.
Many people move to France cold turkey. Some manage to find

their feet while others experience great difficulty. Americans, in partic-
ular, tend to be optimists. It is one of our best and worst traits. We
believe that we will effortlessly master a different language and culture
and erroneously assume we have the right to work and live in a differ-
ent country. Moreover, Americans tend to dismiss those who try to “tell
it like it is.” Yes, I thought the same thing.
You may be saying something to the effect of, “I’ve been to Paris on
vacation. I was there for one week, 10 days, a month. It was great! I’d
love to move there.” But there is a big difference between being on vaca-
tion and actually living here, day in, day out, through damp gray win-
ters as well as “City of Light” summers. I’m sure you know the phrase,
“It’s a great place to visit...” Before you become a permanent resident,
take a dip. Consider it reconnaissance. A sabbatical. A splash of cold
water to bring some realism to the situation.
Truth in advertising, this guidebook can only go so far. Each per-

son brings an individual life to Paris and with him or her, a certain
amount of “chutzpah” and plain old luck. We can tell you that it is
impossible in your situation to find a job, an apartment, etc., but there
is nothing like being here to prove us wrong. In France, there is the law;
application of the law is a different matter. It is applied on a case-by-case
19
basis. The exception often seems to disprove the rule.
After your trial run, you will come to one of three revelations: that
you want to move here immediately, in the future, or not at all.
Mable’s three-month dip

Mable came to Paris on a three-month break from work in the
mid-1990s.
“I was interested in seeing what it would be like to live in Paris…

It was exploratory to see if I could live there longer, find interesting peo-
ple and projects and possibly set up a company in the future either in
California, and work out of Paris, or possibly even in Paris. The trip was
revelatory and intriguing. It also answered my questions about wanting
to live and work in Paris and furthered my decision to come back and
live [there] in the near future. It is an excellent way to ‘test the waters’
before someone fully commits.”
To prepare for her three-month trip, Mable blitzed the Internet. She
corresponded with people who already lived here. She found a house-
sitting opportunity for her first weeks in Paris, which gave her time to
find an apartment. She found the apartment by running into a French
man on the street who noticed that she was studying a map of Paris. She
also got involved at a non-profit association, helping it to develop its
first website. She had a great time in Paris and left forever a Francophile,
with the dream still in her heart.
When is the best time to come?

Why three months? Because that’s the length of the “tourist visa.”
North Americans, for example, automatically have the right to stay in
France for three months. There is no paperwork to file. A residential
visa is only required for stays exceeding three months.
What three months? You may be tempted to visit France in the

summer. We advise against it. A large number of French people depart
for vacation from June to August. For this reason, these months are
arguably the least desirable for determining whether you want to live
20
The Three-Month Dip
here. Paris, especially, becomes devoid of Parisians, and fills with

tourists. Remember, you’re coming to meet French people, network,
and get answers to your questions about living and working here. Also
bear in mind that few employers hire during the summer months.
We recommend that you plan your visit either from mid-September

through mid-December or from February to April. If you come during
the fall, take advantage of Bloom Where You Are Planted, a great intro-
duction-to-Paris program offered on Tuesdays in October. For more
information, visit: www.woac.net.
A new one-day version of the program especially for working peo-

ple called Bloom While You Work is also available. It’s offered about twice
a year on a Saturday, usually in April and October. For more informa-
tion on this special program, contact Danielle Clifton, e-mail:
DAClifton@compuserve.com. In the fall, people get back to work and
school. (Even the politicians have their rentrée (re-entry). It’s a good idea
to carry a French school calendar as most work and social activities fol-
low the same schedule. I carry one with me at all times––and I don’t
even have school-age children.
By way of illustration, here’s the school calendar for 2004 to 2005

for the Paris region, available at: www.education.gouv.fr/prat/calendrier
/calendrier.php
• Rentrée Scolaire (Back to School) Sept. 1, 2004
• Toussaint (All Saints’ Day Break) Oct. 23 - Nov. 4, 2004
• Noël (Christmas Break) Dec. 18, 2004 - Jan. 3, 2005
• Hiver (Winter Break) Feb. 19 - March 7, 2005
• Printemps (Spring Break) April 23 - May 9, 2005
• Vacances d’Eté (Summer Vacation) July 2, 2005
Logistics for the dip

The beauty of the three-month plan is that you can travel light and
keep your distance from many everyday administrative hassles such as
signing a long-term lease, hooking up utilities, and opening a bank
account. As a part of the three-month plan we recommend:
21
• Renting a furnished apartment, utilities included (see the Chapter

Seven for more info).
• Purchasing a mobile phone or using public phones rather than
home telephone service.
• Accessing the Internet at a café or at the American Library of Paris
rather than from your French accommodation.
• Using your ATM and credit cards for expenses rather than
opening a French bank account.
• Using public transportation or walking rather than driving.
Regarding mobile telephone service, there are two main operators:

Orange (www.orange.fr), run by France Telecom, and SFR (www.sfr.fr), a
trademark of Cegetel. You may purchase a mobile phone at any
telecommunications store or online. Orange is also available, of course,
at France Telecom offices. Stores will try to sell you a mobile phone with
a year-long phone service or abonnement (subscription). This is not pos-
sible if you have no French bank account or long-term visa. Instead, we
recommend that you order a service sans abonnement (without a sub-
scription) that offers telecom credits by card. Shop around for a mobile
phone. Budget about 100 euro ($121) for an SMS mobile phone,
excluding the card. Cards are available for sale through the Internet,
France Telecom stores, or at tabacs (cafés with the right to sell cigarettes,
lottery tickets, transportation tickets, etc.).
If your accommodation doesn’t offer Internet access, consider going

online at a cybercafé. They come and go quickly but, as of this writing,
include Cybercafé de Paris (www.cybercafeparis.com), Access Academy
(www.accessacademy.com), and XS Arena Luxembourg (www.xsarena.
com). Call ahead to confirm that the location is still in business. The rates
at Cybercafé de Paris, for example, are 20 cent ($0.24) for the first five
minutes and 20 ($0.24) cent for each additional minute thereafter. Like
other access providers, it also offers forfaits (package deals). Its base pack-
age is five hours for 25 euro ($30). Also consider the American Library of
Paris (www.americanlibraryinparis.org), where Internet access is free to
members. A four-month membership is 37 euro ($45). Time slots at the
library’s two terminals are available in half-hour increments and can be
reserved in advance or on a walk-in basis. If the cost sounds prohibitive
keep in mind that, while most ISPs are inexpensive or free in France, the
22
The Three-Month Dip
underlying telephone service is charged by the minute. You may get

around that with cable Internet, but there is sometimes a wait for hookup
and subscriptions are for a year term. So, before you leave home, set up
a free or paid account with an Internet service provider, such as AOL,
Compuserve, or Hotmail, that is accessible via the web. Remember to
pack your e-mail address, user name, and password.
As for living expenses, the most convenient and cost-effective

method is to use your home banking card to get euro cash from ATM
machines. While practices at individual banks vary, most give you a
very good exchange rate (close to the Interbank rate), and charge no
extra fee (other than home bank ATM charges) for withdrawals of cash
at a French ATM. Keep in mind however that personal identification
numbers (PIN) in Europe are four digits. If your U.S. pin contains five
digits, you can convert it to four by contacting your bank’s customer
service department. We do not recommend that you draw cash on a
credit card as the interest rates on these cash advance transactions are
exorbitant. If you require a check, we recommend obtaining a money
order from the post office. You can pay utility bills in cash at the post
office for a 1% handling fee.
If you must change foreign bills for euro, the least expensive place in
Paris to do so is at Changes et Monnaies, 34 rue Croix-des-Petits-Champs
in the 1st arrondissement, across the street from the Banque de France.
Putting larger purchases on your U.S. credit card can be cost-effec-

tive despite any conversion fees. Visa and MasterCard are both accept-
ed here. For about six years, we purchased most of our goods in France
with our U.S. credit cards as the dollar was strong at the time. There was
no fee on overseas purchases until recently, and not all credit cards
impose a fee. Our credit card now carries a fee of 1% on overseas pur-
chases. We’ve determined that, at that level, it’s still cheaper and more
convenient than changing our dollars or using travelers’ checks. We
suggest you do the math yourself and read the fine print.
Most Parisians walk or take public transportation. It doesn’t take

long to traverse the city by subway—about 45 minutes if there are no
changes involved. Most of my intercity commutes on the subway aver-
23
age 30 minutes door to door. Trains and buses will take you to most of
the famous sightseeing spots outside of the city. To save money, pur-
chase a monthly or weekly pass, called a carte orange (orange card). On
your first purchase, ask the subway clerk for the card plus materials for
the ID card. You assemble the ID card yourself with a passport-sized
photo. You may even purchase transit passes online on the RATP site
(www.ratp.fr). If you choose to drive, your U.S. driver’s license is legal in
France for the three-month tourist period.
What should I do for three months?

Your fact-finding mission to France should help you clarify or reset
your goals. The important questions to ask yourself are: Where do I
want to live? Will I take any kind of job just to live in France or do I
want to stay on my career track? Is my French good enough or do I need
time to improve it? Before you leave the U.S., contact people and organ-
izations in France and tell them you are coming. Set up appointments
if possible. Your future in France depends on what kind of social net-
work you can build here.
Your networking should include as many of the organizations and peo-

ple that we list in the chapter on English-language organizations in France
as possible. In addition, join a French-English conversation group to prac-
tice your French and to network. If you choose to sign up for language les-
sons, limit them to a few times per week. If you sign up for an intensive
course, you’ll find little time for anything but class and homework.
Leaving the City of Light

Lastly, your fact-finding trip should make clear how long you want
to live in France. A year…several years…the rest of your life? Mark
Eversman, now publisher of the U.S.-based newsletter Paris Notes
(www.parisnotes.com)—another great resource—lived here for seven
years. Why did he finally leave the City of Light? Here’s his answer:
“Ultimately, I asked myself, ‘Do I want to stay here the rest of my

life?’ My answer was no. Not because I didn’t love it, but because I want-
ed to start my own business and I viewed that as ‘not an option’ in
24
The Three-Month Dip
France. Also, I came to realize that no matter how well I had integrated
into the French way of life, I would never be accepted as French and
would, therefore, always face certain barriers. The same barriers I faced
on my first day, which then seemed like a challenge, began to aggravate
me rather than fascinate me. Paris was always special, but its specialness
began to fade with time. The only way I could continue to keep it spe-
cial, while pursuing my career dreams, was to leave it.”
Our office in Paris

The staff of our Paris office can answer your questions on day-to-
day living in France, help you to find property to rent or buy, and keep
you connected to the local goings-on. For general inquiries, write to:
France@InternationalLiving.com; for rentals contact Porter Scott at paris-
rentals@InternationalLiving.com; and for real estate write to Jocelyn
Carnegie at parisproperty@InternationalLiving.com
Useful links
• French Foreign Ministry, website: www.france.diplomatie.fr
/index.gb.html. Living, working, and studying in France.
• Expat Exchange, website: www.expatexchange.com. An online

community for English-speaking expats.
25
26
Chapter Three
Learning the Lingo
“It is easy to learn to speak English badly. It is hard to learn to speak
French well.” There is a lot of truth to this French saying. English speak-
ers, in the U.S. at least, tolerate bad English. As a land of immigrants,
we have to. Speaking for myself, I don’t correct my fellow Americans
when they make grammatical mistakes. That is not the case in France.
While I feel my French is pas mal (pretty good) after 10 years here,
I am corrected frequently. One recent Sunday, the sales girl in our local
bakery again corrected my pronunciation of palmier (a type of pastry),
as I don’t articulate the “l” enough for her. It was embarrassing, as I
headed a queue that went out the door. Perhaps she thinks this is our
private joke. I would have preferred that the joke had remained private.
It is a long road to speaking French well. Europeans from Nordic

countries tend to pick the language up more quickly than do people from
the U.S. or Asia. Americans seem to have the hardest time. Perhaps we
overestimate our ability to speak French or to learn it. I have often heard
newly transplanted Americans make statements to the effect of, “I’m giving
myself three months to become fluent in French, and then I’ll find a job.”
If you need to become fluent, there are no shortcuts. If you are

starting from scratch, you’ll need to study several hours a week for
about a year. If you don’t have that kind of time, set modest goals. Do
you really need to become fluent or do you just want to feel less embar-
rassed at the bakery?
The big language schools

I’ve tried to learn French just about every way I can imagine. I
27
attended Alliance Française (www.alliancefr.org) full-time upon arrival in

France. After an entrance exam, I was placed in a beginner’s course
(after four years of high-school French and a recent course at Alliance
Française in New York). I happened into a class with an excellent
instructor with whom I took several classes.
You’ll most likely get mixed reviews about Alliance Française. Their
prices are reasonable and I found the teachers with the intensive (full-
time) program to be excellent and professional. I was somewhat less
impressed with those who teach the extensive (part-time) program. The
full-time program involves four hours of class and an average of four
hours of homework per day. Aside from the courses, the Alliance has a
good language lab, a stimulating series of lectures on grammar and cul-
ture, a jobs office with plentiful postings, as well as a cheap cafeteria.
On the other hand, Alliance probably isn’t the best way to become func-
tionally French rapidly. Its classical, academic style, with a heavy focus
on the written word, is more suited to the younger student who plans
to go onto university or professional life in France. The other well-
known programs of this type in Paris are at Institut Catholique
(www.icp.fr/ilcf) and the Sorbonne (www.fle.fr/sorbonne/ang/intro.html).
Other language schools

There are other schools and language programs, such as those avail-
able through WICE (www.wice-paris.org), which might better suit an
adult learner, particularly if he or she has a busy life and needs to learn
French at an accelerated pace. These other language schools usually
allow prospective students to attend one class free of charge. See the
links at the end of this section for names and addresses.
Conversation groups and partners

After my schooling at Alliance Française, I sought out a conversa-
tion partner through a language school called Langue Onze
(www.langueonzeparis.com/us/index.html). The exchange lasted for more
than a year. The only downside was that my partner lived on the other
side of Paris. The second time, I found a partner closer to home by plac-
ing an ad myself in FUSAC. I received over 50 replies. It was hard to
28
Learning the Lingo
choose, but I found a suitable match and we stayed at it for a year.
I also tried two conversation groups in Paris and have concluded that
conversation groups are a good and inexpensive complement to language
classes as well as a good way to meet Francophones informally. Plus,
there’s no homework. I participated with an ongoing group at WICE (free
to members) regularly for a few months. At this conversation group and
at Parler Parlor (www.parlerparlor.com), half the time is devoted to French
and the other half to English. Parler Parlor, now in its sixth year, is housed
at two professional language schools, Coprom Langues (www.coprom-
langues.fr) on Tuesdays and Thursdays, and Eurocentres (www.eurocen-
tres.com) on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Parler Parlor is run by Adrian
Leeds, author of the Leeds Good Value Guide to Paris Restaurants and
Elisabeth Crochard, a past director of Berlitz.
Tutors
Next I tried a professeur particulier (tutor). Although I told her I want-
ed conversational French, she insisted I study more grammar. Although I
learned a great deal from this teacher, I found the experience to be some-
what of a struggle. She was, however, more effective for my husband, who
can’t abide a classroom atmosphere and was only available after work
hours. I found an ad for this teacher on the bulletin board at WICE. You
can also find French teachers through classified ads in FUSAC, the Paris
Free Voice (www.parisvoice.com), and bulletin boards. The fee for private
tutors is 15 euro ($18) an hour and up. Teachers may charge less, but may
be working without credentials or en noir (under the table).
Language vacations
My husband and I also spent a two-week vacation learning French
at a school practicing what is referred to as the “immersion method.” It
was hardly a vacation! We picked La Ferme (www.la-ferme.com), a small
school set in an old farmhouse on France’s west coast near La Rochelle.
There were lessons in the mornings. Afternoons were usually free, but
we opted for lessons in the afternoon as well. We found little time to
complete our homework let alone go for an outing. As for results, the
school seemed to work better for my husband, a faux débutante (begin-
29
ner with some experience) who was speaking the subjunctive by the
end, than for me, the perennial intermediate.
Useful links
• SOUFFLE is a consortium of French schools and universities offer-
ing French language instruction, website: www.souffle.asso.fr.
• ELITE (European Federation of National Associations for Teaching

Mother Tongues to Foreign Students), website: www.speakelite.org.
• FLE has links for dozens of language schools in France, website:

www.fle.fr.
• The Europa Pages site has links to a number of language schools:

www.europa-pages.com/france/courses.html and an explanation of
French language exams and certificates: website: www.europapages
.com/france/exam.html.
• The City of Paris also offers French-language lessons, website:

www.paris.fr. From the main page click on “Education” then “Cours
municipaux d’adultes.”
• Volterre’s “Learn and Teach French” page has a wide range of

resources: www.wfi.fr/volterre/francophone.html.
30
Chapter Four
Residency and Work Permits
According to a press release dated Dec. 11, 2003, the French Prime
Minister, Jean-Pierre Raffarin, organized a meeting among the other gov-
ernment ministers to discuss taking measures toward “enhancing the
appeal of France” among foreigners. Though initially somewhat vague,
this statement quickly led to the dawning of a new French policy in
which expatriates would be termed “impatriates.”
The ramifications for American expatriates are not entirely clear as

yet. According to Natalia Eklund, Assistant in International
Development at Audit de France-SODIP (www.sodip.com), an interna-
tional partner with the Ironbridge Group (www.ironbridgegroup.net):
“The first priorities are threefold: attracting skills, international

investment, and targeting key sectors for development. These goals
present a large benefit for international business relations in particular.
For those impatriates working in France with their company, life just
became a bit easier. In their effort to attract skills, the French govern-
ment decided on ‘radical improvement in conditions of entry and resi-
dence for impatriate managers and their families.’
“These measures are among over 40 others concerning this new

French policy. Their changes should be put in place during the first
quarter of 2004. But more changes are to come since a second govern-
ment seminar has recently taken place. We can look forward not only to
changes benefiting the working expatriate, but also benefiting the stu-
dent, researcher, artist, filmmaker, and, most especially, the NGO,
finance center, R&D, and business entrepreneur.”
31
How do I apply?
If you are a U.S. citizen who wants to live in France for more than
three months, you must apply for a visa—advance permission from the
French government that is obtained at the closest French consulate in
your home country or current country of residence—before you move
to France. You need a visa whether you want to work, study, or just
hang out here. If you apply for a visa to work in France, you must show
proof of a job, and once you land here, you’ll need to register with the
police and obtain a carte de séjour (residency card).
French regulations for nationals of the European Union, Iceland,

Liechtenstein, and Norway are less stringent. EU citizens with valid
passports and ID papers may reside and work in France and may enter
without visas.
If you peruse job ads, you may see references to the need for French
work permits or working papers. These terms are misleading. Your res-
idency permit, stamped or noted salarié (salaried), doubles as a work
permit, but the term “working papers” is the shorthand. Ads requiring
working papers mean that the employer is unable or unwilling to “spon-
sor” you and obtain working papers on your behalf.
Before complaining about French bureaucracy, U.S. citizens should

keep in mind that France’s rules are less stringent than our own.
Americans also tend to complain that the rules are applied unevenly. In
this respect, they would be correct. Officials may apply the rules accord-
ing to their own interpretation, which, on occasion, may turn in one’s
favor. That’s the flip side of the French bureaucracy.
Read on for more information about visas and carte de séjours. One
of my main sources of information was Ernst & Young’s publication,
Worldwide Immigration: An Executive Guide. A special thanks goes to
partner Jack Anderson for letting me cite this information as needed. In
addition, I quoted Jean Taquet’s e-letter, especially about the new law
regarding immigration, often called the “loi Sarkozy,” that was passed on
November 26, 2003. To sign up for the newsletter, send an e-mail to Mr.
Taquet at: qa@jeantaquet.com.
32
Tourist visas
U.S. citizens visiting France for 90 days or less do not need a visa.
Americans might say they are in France on a “tourist visa,” but this
notion is more virtual than real. Even if French passport control doesn’t
stamp your passport, it doesn’t mean you have an open-ended visa. If
you are stopped by the police, it’s up to you to prove you are in the
country legally and may be expected to present the return portion of
your airline ticket. Keep in mind that, in France, the presumption of
innocence is a new concept.
Visa de long sejour

Americans and other non-EU citizens planning to stay longer than
three months must apply for a visa de long séjour (long-stay visa) in their
home country. This visa gives the bearer permission to enter France
legally but he or she must apply for a carte de séjour (a residency permit
good for a year) within a week of arrival.
Carte de séjour
There are several kinds of cartes de séjour including: visiteur (visi-
tor), salarié (salaried worker), membre de famille (family member of carte
de séjour holder), étudiant (student), scientifique (researcher or universi-
ty lecturer), and profession artistique et culturelle (artists and people in the
arts). The carte de séjour is good for one year. Don’t let your permit
expire; reapply two months prior to the expiration date. When my hus-
band and I were applying for our most recent residency permit, we had
let the old one lapse. We erroneously thought that simply leaving the
country and re-entering would automatically give us tourist status for
three additional months. The clerk at the prefecture scolded us for this
illegality then went back to processing our new residency card. Whew!
At renewal, be ready to show proof that you’ve filed a declaration
(French income tax return). After three consecutive years with a carte de
séjour, you may be eligible for a carte de résident (permanent residency
permit), which is valid for 10 years and provides the bearer with the
right to work.
33
You’re on your own

Of course, there are those who came to Paris for several months and
land the job of a lifetime––laws or no laws. And, of course, many expats
do live and work here illegally, getting paid cash and never declaring it.
I, however, would never advise one to follow suit, and neither does the
U.S. Embassy in Paris:
“Americans should not come to France in the expectation of being

able to find a job and to regularize their status after arrival. These expec-
tations are unlikely to be fulfilled and personal hardship may result.
Most foreigners are not eligible for French Social Security and unem-
ployment benefits. In some cases, individuals may have difficulties with
the French authorities and may face expulsion.”
(The U.S. Embassy in Paris’ Guide for U.S. Citizens Residing in

France (www.amb-usa.fr/consul/guideoas/guidehome.htm) warns that the
Embassy is not in a position to intercede with French authorities on
behalf of Americans seeking visa exemptions and work permits. The
guide, by the way, is an invaluable resource for anyone planning to live
in France.)
The paperwork
The path to obtaining a residency permit is strewn with a great deal
of paper. The most common documents requested are:
• A passport with long-stay visa

• A birth certificate
• Three black-and-white passport-size photos
• Proof of residence (such as a utility bill)
• Stamped and self-addressed envelope
• Proof of financial resources
• Proof of health insurance
• Marriage or divorce papers
• An employment contract
Of course, you’ll want to retain your original documents and pro-

vide duplicates to the prefecture. In fact, we recommend that you carry
34
the documents in duplicate or triplicate. Also note that this is not a

complete list. We’ve heard stories of applicants carrying shopping bags
full of papers to the prefecture as their clerks are notorious for asking for
“just one more thing.”
Applying for a carte de sejour

U.S. and other non-EU citizens must apply for visas and work per-
mits through the French consulate in their home country or current
country of residence. Work permits are processed by the French
Immigration and Labor Departments. After the application is approved,
the employee is notified by the French consulate and asked to undergo a
medical exam before receiving a long-term visa. Although it is possible to
file an application for a work permit while in France, it may not prove
beneficial. Applicants may be required to go back to their home country
and await notification by the French consulate at which time they’ll be
asked to undergo the medical exam. The normal time for processing
work permit applications is six to eight weeks from the date when all
required documents are completed and filed with the administrative
departments. Senior executives transferring with international companies
can expect a shorter processing time of approximately one month.
Within eight days after arrival in France, you must present your
documentation to the local prefecture or town hall in order to acquire a
carte de séjour. In Paris, you must first visit the appropriate Centre de
Réception des Etrangers (Center for the Reception of Aliens), of which
there are several, depending on where you live in Paris and whether you
are applying as an EU citizen, student, or businessperson. For the
appropriate center, see the website for the Prefecture de Police Paris
(www.paris.pref.gouv.fr). For basic information, you can also visit the pre-
fecture in Paris at 1, rue de Lutèce (place Louis Lépine) in the 4th
arrondissement. After entering through security, there is an acceuil (wel-
come desk) that can field basic questions and direct you to the right
place. If you live outside of Paris, inquire at the local police station or
mairie (town hall) about where to apply.
At the Centre de Réception (reception area), you’ll be expected to

present your passport and other supporting documents. Barring any
35
problems, you’ll be granted an appointment at the prefecture. The clerks

at the prefecture may require additional paperwork. If the prefecture can’t
issue a carte de séjour immediately, as is often the case, you’ll receive a
récépissé de demande de carte de séjour. This receipt is good for several
months, allows the bearer to travel outside France, and should be car-
ried with his or her ID papers.
If you are already in France legally on one type of residency card and
want to change to another, go to your prefecture for more information.
Procedures for EU nationals

EU, EEE, and Swiss citizens no longer need a carte de séjour as their
national ID is now deemed valid as a French ID. “This is quite a revo-
lution,” says Jean Taquet, “since France has always been suspicious of
foreigners and thus tried to control and monitor those living on its ter-
ritory. This change in the law pretty much means that people from these
European countries should be treated like French people, and is anoth-
er step in the direction of setting up a federal state at European level.”
If the employee is seconded by his or her home company and

remains on that company’s payroll, he or she must complete Form E101
to remain under his or her country’s social security system. Additionally,
a déclaration de détachement (declaration of detachment) providing the
name of his or her employer and the duration of the secondment, must
be submitted. Because EU nationals hired by French companies are cov-
ered under the French social security system, they are not required to
fill out Form E101 in their home countries. However, the French
employers must submit a déclaration d’engagement to obtain French
social security numbers for the EU-national employees.
Permanent residence and work permits

After three years of residence in France, the holder of a carte de
séjour may apply for a carte de resident (permanent resident card), which
is valid for 10 years and is renewable. The administration has substan-
tial discretion to approve a carte de résident, which allows the individual
to work for any employer in France or as self-employed and exempts
36
him or her from the carte de commerçant étranger (foreign traders’ card)
requirements. After 10 years of residing in France with cartes de séjour,
the holder may respectfully demand a carte de résident. Unfortunately,
any years residing in France on a student visa will not be counted
toward the 10-year requirement. Also, keep in mind that France now
counts each year worked illegally against the applicant for the 10-year
card. “This provision makes it almost impossible for illegal aliens to get
legal status,” says Jean Taquet, “since almost all need to work, one way
or another, to survive in France.”
Carte de commercant
Foreign traders’ cards (cartes de commerçant étranger) are compul-
sory for non-EU individuals who do business in France and who hold
the positions of president or general manager of société anonyme (joint
stock companies) or société à résponsabilité limitée (limited liability com-
panies) regardless of whether they reside in France. The carte de com-
merçant étranger requirement also applies to non-EU commercial agents
and representatives of liaison offices. If such an individual wishes to
reside in France, he or she must apply for a visa de long séjour (long-term
visa) to be issued by the French consulate nearest his or her residence
abroad. The application must be made simultaneously with the appli-
cation for the carte de commerçant étranger. The procedure takes up to
three months from the date of filing with the French authorities.
However, it is possible to obtain temporary authorization within two or
three weeks after receipt of the application. If the applicant intends to
reside in France, the application is filed with the French consulate near-
est the applicant’s place of residence abroad. If the applicant does not
intend to reside in France, the application is filed directly with the rel-
evant prefecture in France. A carte de commerçant étranger is valid initial-
ly for one year and may be renewed indefinitely.
Special rules and exemptions

France’s residency and work rules undoubtedly favor the employ-
ment of French nationals as well as citizens of EU countries. On the
other hand, France doesn’t want to shut out all non-European foreign-
ers. To that end, France has set up a number of rules and exemptions
37
for special categories of people: spouses of French citizens, au pairs, stu-

dents, the independently wealthy, executives, managers, owners of busi-
nesses, workers at international organizations, and interns.
Becoming an EU national
If you, your parents, or grandparents were born in an EU country,
you may be eligible for a passport from that country. Ireland, for exam-
ple, grants grandchildren of Irish-born nationals an Irish passport. If
your spouse or common-law partner retains the right to live and work
in France, you may also be so entitled.
Marrying a French citizen

After a waiting period, spouses of French citizens have the right to
live and work in France. The rules have been tightened under the new
“loi Sarkozy” and, as Jean Taquet says, “There is increasing suspicion
regarding foreigners marrying, or already married to, French citizens. A
couple must now be married two full years before the foreign spouse
can hold a carte de résident, the 10-year card. Further, a foreigner who
tries to marry a French citizen without first having adequate residency
status will definitely be suspected of a fake marriage. Now a carte de rési-
dent cannot be requested until the person has lived in France for five
years––that is, having held a total of five cartes de séjour (not three years
as was formerly the case). And one must prove complete integration
into France, which can be quite difficult, to get the 10-year card.”
Thus, it is especially important that one follow the rules before coming
to France with one’s French spouse. It is advisable to apply for a long-stay
visa upon entering France and then apply for a carte de résident (permanent
residency card carrying the right to work), but you may also enter as a
tourist and then apply for the residency card. U.S. citizens intending to
come to France to marry and take up residence in France for more than
three months should apply for a visa de long séjour pour mariage (long-stay
visa for marriage). Those on a tourist visa may marry provided they comply
with French law. At least one party to the marriage must have resided in
France for 40 days preceding the date of the civil ceremony. In France, a
civil ceremony is required before any religious one.
38
Students with a French resident parent

Students who have studied in France for at least two years and have
a parent who has been resident in France for four years or more have
the right to work in France.
Becoming an au pair
France has special programs and procedures for people who want
to work as au pairs. They must obtain a visa de long séjour as a stagiaire
aide familiale (family help assistant) from the French consulate in their
home country. Au pairs should arrange a contract directly with a French
family or through an agency. This contract must be approved by the
Service de la Main d’Oeuvre Etrangère (Foreign Labor Branch) of the
French Ministry of Labor. After arriving in France, the au pair must
apply for a residency permit within eight days after which he or she
returns to the Service de la Main d’Oeuvre for a temporary work permit.
It isn’t possible to come to France as a tourist and then apply for au pair
status. However, those who have student status can switch to au pair
status after arrival in France. An au pair must be between the ages of 18
and 30. The length of stay is usually one year. Because an au pair is
looked on as a student who works, knowledge or study of French dur-
ing his or her stay in France is required. Work will be limited to 30
hours per week.
Coming to France as a visitor

If you want to remain in France for more than three months and
have the means to do so, we suggest that you apply for a long-stay visa
as well as a carte de séjour temporaire visiteur (temporary resident card),
which is valid for one year. You will be required to prove that you have
the financial means to support yourself for a year in France and that you
have valid health insurance. While it is illegal to work with this resi-
dency permit, many temporary resident card holders freelance for
home-country companies and accept payment in their home country
bank accounts. In any case, you are required to file French income taxes
each year, as you will be considered a French tax resident.
39
Détaché status
Individuals sent to France by companies located outside the coun-
try may obtain détaché status. These individuals must remain on the
payroll of the foreign company and may not stay in France longer than
60 months. This status is extended primarily to those seconded for the
purpose of providing technical assistance and auditing services, or for
performing reporting functions. Employees with détaché status should
receive an autorisation provisoire de travail (temporary work permit) valid
for nine months, as well as a carte de séjour temporaire (temporary resi-
dence permit) valid for the same period of time. However, in most of
these cases, an expatriate receives a carte de séjour, valid for one year,
and a temporary work permit, valid for nine months. Both are renew-
able for the duration of the assignment.
For expatriates working in France for American corporations, there

is also a favorable new regulation under the “loi Sarkozy.” After such a
worker receives his or her first carte de séjour for one year, the subse-
quent card can be issued for up to four years at renewal time. “This is
now the only carte de séjour that will be for more than one year,” says
Jean Taquet. “In addition, some legal and fiscal considerations now
make it easier and cheaper for these foreigners to live in France.”
Becoming a student
Under certain conditions, foreign students in France who are not
EU nationals may obtain temporary work permits that authorize them
to work up to 19.5 hours per week. To work during the school year, stu-
dents must provide evidence of economic necessity. Students are only
permitted to work full-time during the summer and must prove their
registration at a qualified educational institution in France or elsewhere.
A student is defined as one who is currently enrolled at, or is a recent
graduate of, an institution of higher learning. (See the Education chap-
ter for information on enrollment.)
If you are a student in the U.S., the easiest way to find work is
through an agency such as the Council for International Education
Exchange (www.ciee.org), which assists participants in finding three-
40
month term, full-time temporary placements. If you are in Paris, visit

the Council’s offices at 1 place de l’Odéon in the 6th arrondissement.
Business students can try AISEC internships (www.aiesec.org/exchange).
Teaching assistantships, organized by the French Embassy in New York
(www.info-france-usa.org/culture/education/support/assistant/index.html),
are offered on a nine-month term basis. You can also apply directly to a
French university for student status. See the Education chapter for
details. Be sure to check out the short-term jobs at EscapeArtist.com:
www.escapeartist.com/efam21/transitions2_jobs.html.
Working for a French company as a manager or executive

If you are a cadre supérieur (manager or executive), a French com-
pany may hire you under certain circumstances. To qualify for this sta-
tus, an employee must possess specialized knowledge that justifies the
hiring of a non-French national for the position and must receive a min-
imum monthly salary of about 3,700 euro ($4,600), adjusted annually
for inflation. The rules are even more lax for senior executives with
multinational companies. For information on how to find these French
or multinational companies, please refer to the next chapter on job-
hunting in France.
Working at international organizations

Because international organizations based in France are exempt from
French work rules, they are free to hire individuals who do not technical-
ly have the right to work here. However, the applicant must be a national
of a member country of the organization to which he or she applies. U.S.
citizens, for example, aren’t eligible for posts at the European Space
Agency. Competition for jobs at international organizations is stiff. The
most common opportunities occur in secretarial or data-entry positions.
International organizations based in Paris include the OECD
(www.oecd.org), UNESCO (www.unesco.org), the European Space Agency
(www.esa.int/export/esaCP/index.html), and the International Civil Aviation
Organization (www.icao.org). Those with offices in Paris are the
International Labour Office at 1 rue Miollis in the 15th, as well as the
International Monetary Fund (www.imf.org) and the World Bank
(www.worldbank.org), both located at 66 avenue d’Iéna in the 16th.
41
Becoming an intern, trainee, or volunteer

Stagiaires (interns) generally obtain posts as students or recent
graduates through their university, an agency, or a government office.
Students can apply for three-month internships co-sponsored by the
French Embassy in New York (www.info-franceusa.org/culture/educa-
tion/support/internship/index.html). Non-students should inquire at their
nearest French consulate.
Since 1950, the Association for International Practical Training

(www.aipt.org), has offered on-the-job practical training opportunities in
countries around the world, including France. These are offered to stu-
dents and professionals. AIPT can either make the placement, handle
the formalities for applicants who have found their own position, or
help to arrange short-term informational visits and trade missions.
Volunteering is a common activity in France, as social life often

revolves around the non-profit association. There are thousands of such
organizations in France with many thousands of bénévoles (volunteers).
Unpaid U.S. summer volunteers and non-paid interns of any age or sta-
tus are welcome to visit France on a tourist visa. Check out the dozens
of volunteer work leads at EscapeArtist.com (www.escapeartist.
com/efam21/transitions2_jobs.html). If you are in France legally and your
French is so-so, think about volunteering for an English-speaking asso-
ciation. (Refer to the chapter on organizations for a list of such associa-
tions.) If your French is good, contact the Centre Nationale du
Volontariat (National Volunteer Center). Be aware, however, that the
center isn’t used to finding suitable placements for foreign volunteers.
An American friend of mine registered with the center but had trouble
finding an outlet for her skills. Eventually, she got an assignment teach-
ing French cuisine to African immigrants. My friend had a great time,
but it wasn’t the French experience she was expecting!
Setting up your own business

See Chapter Six, Creating Your Own Business.
42
Working black, white, and gray

While we would never recommend that you do so, it has to be said
that many people, French and foreign, work en noir (illegally) in France.
These workers accept cash for payment and never declare it to authori-
ties. Companies and organizations are much less likely to hire an indi-
vidual under these conditions. The downside to working illegally is that
neither the worker nor the employer is protected by the law. There is no
unemployment insurance, paid vacation, or pension. Other expatriates
in France work in gray areas of which there are many variations. One
such gray area involves setting up a company in one’s home country,
entering France on a carte de séjour temporaire visiteur (temporary resi-
dency card for visitors) or as a tourist, and working as a contractor or
employee of the home company. We advise that you exercise extreme
caution should you decide to engage in such practices.
Retiring to France
Yes, it is possible to retire to France. To this end, you would apply
for a long-term visa at the nearest French consulate in your home coun-
try after which you would obtain a carte de séjour visiteur. To prove you
have the financial means, statements from your pension plan should be
enough to satisfy the authorities. Be sure that your health plan covers
you in France, or obtain a suitable French plan.
We still recommend the three-month dip in France to find your

home base and to network with other retirees. Because Paris is the most
expensive place to live in France, you may want to consider retiring to
the country, where real estate, rents, and the cost of living are cheaper.
For more detailed information on retiring to France, I recommend

the excellent book Vital Issues: How to Survive Officialdom While Living in
France, published by the Association of American Wives of Europeans
(www.aaweparis.org). The book also fields money-related questions
involving marriage, divorce, health, senior care, as well as wills and
inheritance. The American Association of Retired Persons’ International
pages (www.aarp.org/intl) are a terrific resource regarding social security
matters as well as for general tips on retiring overseas. Escape Artist’s
43
overseas retirement pages (www.escapeartist.com/retirement/havens.htm)

have hundreds of general links.
Other recommended reading:

“France can be a low tax jurisdiction:” www.itpa.org/open/archive
/anthony.html.
“How You Can Lose Your U.S. Social Security Retirement Benefits:”
www.overseasdigest.com/odsamples/foreigntest.html.
Becoming a French citizen

A French citizen has the right to work in his or her country. So why
not become a citizen? If you are an American citizen, you are not required
to give up your U.S. citizenship. However, one of the questions the
French authorities may ask you in the process of acquiring citizenship is
if you are willing to give that up. The correct answer is yes, regardless of
your actual intention. The road to French citizenship is a long one: it
requires five years of legal residence as well as proof of complete assimi-
lation into a French community. As such, you must demonstrate a good
command of the language, an understanding of current events as well as
proof that you are de bonnes vie et moeurs (not a criminal). If you are a
native of a former French territory, the five-year residency rule can be
waived in some instances. As a matter of interest, the term “French terri-
tory” also technically includes Louisiana Purchase Territories of the U.S.,
comprising 13 states or parts of states: Louisiana, Arkansas, Missouri,
Iowa, North Dakota, South Dakota, Nebraska, Kansas, Wyoming,
Minnesota, Oklahoma, Colorado, and Montana. The law pertaining to
this technicality can be found in the Code Civil, La Loi du Mars 1998—
La Loi du 29 Décembre 1999, Article 21-19 (5). We are not aware of any-
one seeking citizenship using this argument. Good legal counsel is
advised should you choose to pursue this avenue. (My thanks to
Francophile Dale Novick, a native of New Orleans, for this information.)
For more information

A good first step for more information is the French consulate or a
44
lawyer specializing in French immigration law in your home country. If

you are in France, consult your prefecture or a locally based immigration
attorney. We recommend Sam Okoshken, a U.S. lawyer practicing in
Paris, who has helped us with this guide. Contact information for other
lawyers is available in the Guide for U.S. Citizens Residing in France pub-
lished by the U.S. Embassy in Paris.
Useful links
• Embassy of France in the U.S., website: www.info-franceusa.
org/visitingfrance. Information on full-time work, assistantships,
student part-time, and au-pair work.
• Internal Revenue Services, website: www.irs.ustreas.gov/formspubs

/index.html. U.S. tax forms, in downloadable format.
• France Pratique, website: www.pratique.fr/vieprat/emploi. Legalities

of working in France (in French from France Pratique).
• Service Public, website: www.service-public.fr/etranger/english.html.French

civil service information online. Published by the French Government.
• The Au Pair Centre on Europa Pages: website: www.europpages.

com/au_pair.
• University of Rochester: website: www.rochester.edu/college/study-

abroad/europe/paris.html. The university’s study/internship program
in Paris.
• Study Abroad, website: http://listings.studyabroad.com/sab_tango

/sab_exp.taf?country=France%20Other. Leads on French internships
via StudyAbroad.com.
45
46
Chapter Five
Job-Hunting in France
Now that you know a bit about the legalities of living and working
here, it’s time to find a job. Because you’re competent and well-educat-
ed, you’re probably thinking it won’t be too difficult. While I don’t want
to dampen your enthusiasm, I must warn you to be realistic. I came to
France, like so many others in my situation, thinking that it would be a
cinch to snatch a full-time job.
My husband John had secured a job here at an international organ-

ization. He sowed the seeds for the job, while on vacation in Provence,
by visiting former colleagues who work there. Through John’s employ-
er, we obtained residency cards called cartes spèciales, which did not
allow me to work. In fact, I couldn’t even exchange the card for one
which would allow me to work should I find a job. (That situation
should be changing soon with France’s new “expatriates are impatriates”
policy.) Somehow I refused to process that information, certain that, if I
found a job, there would be a way. In fact, there was no way around it
for me. That’s why I ultimately chose to freelance.
If you do have the right to work and live in France and your French
is excellent, your job search will be like any normal one. If you don’t
have the right to live and work here, first see if your situation lets you
take advantage of any special rules and exemptions to the work visa
rules mentioned in the previous chapter. If you don’t have the right to
work and live here, your job search may be long and difficult––though
not impossible. Take the three-month dip and network in France.
Realize that you may have an easier time finding a job in a high-demand
sector such as the high-technology or hospitality industries. Read on for
a few suggestions on maximizing possibilities in your home country:
47
• Contact international headhunters.

• Apply for a position at a French subsidiary and research transfer possibilities.
• Create a company or set up your current business in France.
• Approach home-based multinational corporations with offices in France.
The job climate

The official unemployment rate in France is high (over 9%) and has
been for quite some time. The economy had been improving for a few
years before Sept. 11, with headhunters reporting shortages in certain
areas: high-tech, hotel and restaurant work, sales and marketing, as well
as insurance and banking. But the economy is poor again. If you have
working papers and your mother tongue is English, English-language
teachers and bilingual secretaries are currently in high demand.
Salaries
While salaries are generally lower in France than in the U.S., the
cost of living is lower and social services broader and deeper here. The
co-payments for such services are taken directly out of one’s paycheck
in the U.S. According to a survey by the magazine Courrier Cadres, an
annual salary of 80,000 euro ($98,000) nets 71% for a couple with
two children (before taxes). For that same family, an annual salary of
160,000 euro ($195,000) nets 64%. In France, people don’t usually
talk about their salaries as it’s generally considered bad taste. But when
they do, it’s usually talked about in monthly rather than yearly terms.
Also, the French tend to talk in either brut (gross) or net (take-home
pay not including income taxes), depending on whether they are brag-
ging about their job or complaining about taxes. According to the
Courrier Cadres survey, the median salary for a cadre (managerial or
executive position) is 45,700 euro ($56,000) per year. Approximately
62% of cadres receive a perk in the form of equipment, such as a com-
puter for home use, or a car. Nevertheless, a mere 8% report that they
are satisfied with their salaries. For the full survey, see Enquête
Rémunérations 2002 on the Cadres Courrier website
(www.apec.fr/index_infosmarche.html). For information on the compar-
ative cost of living in France see Finfacts Worldwide 2002 Cost of Living
Survey (www.finfacts.ie/costofliving1.htm).
48
The European competition

While you may be well-qualified, speak some French and perfect
English, keep in mind that there are plenty of good candidates from
Britain and Ireland who have the right to work in France. Why would
an employer go through the bureaucracy, cost, and risk of hiring you?
Your combination of skills has to be so attractive and unique that you’ll
beat out a whole continent of candidates.
Professions requiring French credentials

Possessing the right to work in France does not necessarily guaran-
tee the right to work in one’s chosen profession. For example, with the
exception of a few temporary, specialized posts, civil servants must be
French citizens. Similarly, a U.S. lawyer can’t practice in France without
obtaining French credentials. Contact the French consulate in your
home country for more information as there are a few exceptions.
Qualified individuals are often given assistance by local firms anxious to
retain their services. As such, a U.S. lawyer may increase his or her
chances by contacting firms in France catering to expatriates, but will
still eventually have to take the equivalent of the U.S. Bar Exam. The sit-
uation is similar for health care workers and teachers. The American
Hospital of Paris hires a certain number of U.S. doctors annually. Private
schools are more likely to hire a non-French teacher than are public
schools. If you are a professional, the key to finding a job in Paris is to
seek out expatriate firms, organizations, and associations, or to be an
exception to the rule.
Working at U.S. firms in France

Job opportunities for Americans at established U.S. companies in
France are quite limited. While U.S. companies may rely on American
employees during the initial stages, the makeup of the company will
tend to become more French as the subsidiary matures. New U.S. firms
seeking to establish a presence in France may well be more likely to
value the services of U.S. employees. The American Chamber of
Commerce (www.amchamfrance.org) has a complete list of U.S. firms in
France for purchase via their website. You’ll also want to acquaint your-
49
self with the French-American Chamber of Commerce in Paris

(www.faccparisfrance.com), which has an extensive online jobs listing.
The FACC’s chapters in the U.S., such as the San Francisco branch
(www.faccsf.com), may be helpful.
Working at embassies in France

The U.S. Embassy and consulates only consider applicants with a valid
10-year carte de résident (work permit). A security clearance is a plus. Most
upper-level positions are filled by Foreign Service Officers who are employ-
ees of the U.S. State Department (www.state.gov/m/dghr/hr) and have passed
rigorous exams. Rules may vary at other embassies.
Working at French companies

If you want to work at a French company and don’t currently reside
in France, we recommend the three-month dip to develop contacts and
get a feel for the market. Unless you have the right to work and want a
job that is in demand, you’ll have to meet people and maximize the pos-
sibility that you’ll be in the right place at the right time. We’ve compiled
the following list of places to visit as well as websites that should prove
useful whether or not you are currently in France.
One stop you’ll want to make is the Chambre de Commerce et

d’Industrie de Paris (The Paris Chamber of Commerce) (www.ccip.fr) for
information on Paris-based companies. If you are looking for a job out-
side of Paris, visit the local Chambre de Commerce for the area in ques-
tion. There are some sectors that tend to hire consistently, such as those
pertaining to language education and Anglo-French restaurant work.
The print publication FUSAC (www.fusac.fr), contains extensive job list-
ings; the online edition, however, carries far fewer. The French newspa-
pers, especially the “Interactif” section of Le Monde, list numerous
prospects, particularly in the high-tech sector; you’ll find however that
most French newspapers’ classifieds aren’t yet available online. The
International Herald Tribune (www.iht.com/frontpage.html), published in
Paris, posts listings for positions in France as well as world-wide. The
ANPE, Agence Nationale pour l’Emploi (National Employment Agency)
(www.anpe.fr), posts job listings, offers career counseling with an expert
50
in your area of specialization, and maintains a sizeable online database

of member companies. International job sites with French pages include
OverseasJob.com’s France page (www.overseasjobs.com/do/where/job-
tree/France); high-tech jobs in France (www.jobuniverse.fr); HotJobs.com
(www.hotjobs.com); and International Job Centers (www.jerryeden.
com/ijc/joblist.htm). Last but not least, check the French employment
sites and portals such as Nomade.fr (www.nomade.fr).
Here’s an inside tip: Madame Claire de Circourt informs me that her

relocation firm, De Circourt Associates, 11 rue Royale in the 8th, tel.
(331)43-12-98-00; e-mail: circourt@homes-paris.com is seeking bilingual
staff in her commercial and administrative departments.
Employment agencies and headhunters

In my opinion, cabinets de recrutement (employment agencies) in
France are only helpful for the sectors already in demand: the high-tech
and bilingual secretarial industries. Try Bilinguagroup (www.bilingua-
group.com), Sheila Burgess (www.sheilaburgessint.fr), Manpower
(www.manpower.fr), Michael Page International (www.michaelpage.
com/index.asp), Femmes & Carrières (www.femmesetcarrieres.com) and
TM International (www.tmi-paris.com), as well as the temp agencies list-
ed below. Chasseurs de têtes (headhunters) are helpful for executive
positions, especially in the high-tech fields. If you are in the U.S., it’s
best to contact an international headhunting agency there first as you’ll
want to be available for interviews. Some headhunters in Paris are
Eurosearch Consultants (www.eurosearch-consultants.com), Egon
Zehnder International (www.zehnder.com), Leaders-Trust Inter-national
(www.leaders-trust.com), and Spencer Stuart (www.spencerstuart.com).
Except for the top jobs, most agencies seek people with working papers.
Temporary work agencies

Work through temporary employment agencies is extended to peo-
ple who already have the right to live and work in France. EU citizens
may work for their first three months in France without a carte de séjour.
Temporary secretarial, accounting, and nursing candidates are current-
ly in high demand. Refer to Les Pages Jaunes (the French Yellow Pages)
51
(wge.pagesjaunes.fr/pj.cgi)––under intérim in the directory and under

agences d’intérim on the web––for listings for temporary employment
agencies. Some agencies that offer placements to bilingual French-
English workers include Kelly Services (www.kellyservices.fr), Manpower
(www.manpower.fr), Accountemps (www.accountemps.net), and Plus
International (www.plusinterim.fr).
American church bulletin board

If you are in Paris and are looking for babysitting, household work
or odd jobs, the American Church in Paris (www.acparis.org) has bulletin
boards with numerous postings. As no information can be given by
phone, you’ll have to stop by to view the ads in person.
French job culture

Finding a job at a French company is more “who you know” than
in the U.S. The French like to hire people with whom they feel com-
fortable and tend to be rather slow in making a final decision. In light
of the numerous French work rules and benefits, hiring can be an
expensive proposition and firing an employee on a contrat de durée inde-
terminée (permanent contract) can be problematic. As such, you’re like-
ly to be offered a contrat de durée determinée (temporary contract), at
least initially.
The basic tools of the job hunt, the resumé and cover letter, are the
same here in principle but different in form. Curiously, the French word
resumé isn’t used to refer to a summary of job qualifications; the coun-
try prefers the Latin term CV for curriculum vitae. French CVs are usu-
ally more classic in style than U.S. ones. Look at French CVs on the Web
for pointers. Cadres Online (French Managers Online) (www.cadreson-
line.com) has good tips. You may be surprised to learn that you must dis-
close your age and marital status––even affix a photo––on the CV. You’ll
also find that your lettre de motivation (cover letter) is preferred hand-
written in fountain pen.
If you get an interview, be well prepared before you cross that cul-
tural threshold. Realize that the average French person is more formal,
52
mannered, and deferential to authority than the average American. The

French handshake, for example, is more like a whole arm pump than a
mere squeeze of the hand. In terms of attire, think in terms of a more for-
mal dress code than you would for an interview in the U.S. Also, be pre-
pared to explain your CV in terms a French person would understand.
Real life working in France stories

Here are stories by Tracy, Veronica, Andrea, and Pamela about how
they obtained their residency and working papers in France.
Tracy’s story
“During my first year in France I was on a tourist visa. Every three
months I left the country long enough to get a stamp in my passport.
During this time I worked illegally doing odd jobs, such as nanny or
sales clerk. My situation changed when I got married to a French man.
The week after the wedding, I got a récépissé de demande de carte de
séjour. I had this paper, a receipt good for six months proving my
request for a carte de séjour. At the end of this period I received my carte
de séjour from the Departement de Travail.
“On this card, as many people will tell you, it was marked that it
was not an authorization to work. This causes many misconceptions.
With this card you have the right to work if you can find a company
who is willing to give you a promesse d’embauche. This is just a paper
that says the company is willing to hire you if the Departement de
Travail will issue the correct papers. With this promesse d’embauche a
work permit is issued, usually within a week.
“One catch that I encountered is that this work permit is issued for
a six-month period with the name of the company wishing to hire you
indicated. If you decide to change jobs during this six-month period, as
I did, you need to get a new promesse d’embauche. Although this is per-
fectly legal, many companies don’t know the procedure and are a bit
skeptical about doing it. It is my experience that large foreign compa-
nies are more used to dealing with this and much more willing to go
through the process. For employers who are a bit unsure, all you need
to do is convince them that it’s a very simple formality.
53
“After one year of being married I was able to request a carte de residence,
which is good for 10 years and allows me to work without restrictions.”
Veronica’s story
“I came to Paris on a tourist visa to study French at a language
school in Paris. Having no stamp in my passport that proved the date of
my arrival, I was not forced to leave the country every three months for
a stamp. Although I suppose this could have caused problems, I never
encountered any.
“I actually didn’t intend on staying in Paris after my studies, but

planned to try to find a job in some other European country. As cir-
cumstances would have it, nine months after my arrival, I met two peo-
ple who had formed a new company and they wanted me to work for
them––part-time at first, then full-time. At the beginning I was paid on
a consultant basis to my U.S. bank account. This, unfortunately, was not
very practical and I wanted to procure working papers.
“The mother of a friend worked at the Paris prefecture and she told
us what she thought was the best solution. My employers posted an
announcement at the ANPE (French unemployment office) for my posi-
tion for two months. At the end of this period, having found no suitable
French candidate, a demand was made for work papers. The usual
round of paperwork was dealt with and, about two months later, we
received a positive response.
“Unfortunately, I was required to go to a consulate in the U.S. for

the visa and they didn’t work quite as fast. It was another three months
before they processed the papers. I was notified that my visa was ready
and I could pick it up. While there, I was required to have a medical
exam which, with a little begging, I managed to get without a prior
appointment. I picked up my visa and that was it.
“My carte de séjour is subject to renewal each year but, after paying
taxes for three years, I will have the right to ask for a carte de résident.
Of course actually having this little card entitled me to many experi-
ences with the French bureaucracy to get my social security card,
renewing my carte de séjour, etc. If I’ve learned one thing it’s to never
54
throw anything away; save about 10 copies of every scrap of paper that
you receive during your stay in France. No matter how illogical it may
seem you will probably need them.”
Andrea’s story
“I first came to Paris in 1990 with my boyfriend. I had to work
because we were broke…I did so illegally, teaching English. I was
enrolled at the Sorbonne to learn French, but that doesn’t allow you to be
a student in the real sense of the term, and get the authorization to work
20 hours a week. So the following year I enrolled in Nanterres in English
literature. I continued to work for the same place, but this time, legally.
“After three years, my boyfriend and I decided to get married, and

I requested a change…to working status. The French authorities, how-
ever, kicked me out of the country because they realized I was not real-
ly interested in my studies, but in working. My husband got a leave of
absence from his company. We stayed in the U.S. for eight months and
got married. He went back on the condition that the company get me
back to France.
“For me, the most important thing was to be able to live in France
legally, then get the right to work. Although I wasn’t supposed to, I came
back to France with him on a tourist visa while he made a demand for
a regroupement familial.
“The company hired a lawyer to help us out with the process. The
lawyer was difficult and very expensive, but good because she had
connections. The process took about 10 months. During that time, I
had to leave the country every three months. My lawyer advised me
not to put my name on anything. After I got my working papers, it
took me a while to find a job I really wanted. I could have easily gone
back to teaching English.”
Pamela’s story
“I came to Paris in ‘95 to escape corporate America and with the
hope that I could find a good job here and a more balanced lifestyle. I
had heard that CIEE (Council International Educational Exchange) was
a great resource if you’re a recent graduate, which I was not, but I was
55
taking a course at American University in Paris and had a current stu-

dent ID card. This was enough to get my three-month working papers
from CIEE. I was told that, if I found a job related to my academic stud-
ies, I could get a renewal for another three months.
“I found a job waitressing with a company that, soon after, went

bankrupt, which is one reason I believe they hired me. They knew in
advance they’d be closing soon and took the risk of hiring me without
ever actually processing the three-month papers I had. The restaurant
closed within six weeks of me starting and I was out of a job and unsure
how long I could remain in Paris.
“I hit the pavement and went to several restaurants and bars with
not much luck. It was February and most places wanted someone they
knew they could keep on staff for more than three months. I was con-
stantly told to come back for the summer season. Then, by chance, I
heard there was a data-entry position for an English speaker at an inter-
national organization. I saw this as an opportunity to stay in France
legally (international organizations are authorized to give cartes spéciales
for their employees as they are not obligated to conform to French hir-
ing laws) and with a salary, giving me the time to keep looking. At first,
I had only three-month contracts that were never certain to be renewed,
but after the first nine months, I was given a six-month contract.
“At this point, I had been in Paris for 17 months and made the
decision to devote all of my energies outside my job to finding what I
really wanted—something in marketing or communications in a pro-
fessional capacity––and if I didn’t find anything by the time my con-
tract expired, I’d go back to the States. I had not been very serious
about my professional job search prior to this decision and knew that,
if I returned to the U.S. without making a substantial effort, I’d never
forgive myself.
“Amazingly, I found a job within three weeks of this decision, and

the company is getting me my work papers—the much coveted CDI or
contract indeterminée (permanent contract).
“From my experience, I can say that being willing to accept all types
56
of jobs, regardless of your professional background, is the key to suc-

cess. I was also extremely lucky to have been offered an external post at
an international organization, which allowed me to work and live here
legally, and luckier still to have found a company that is willing to get
me my papers and be patient with the French system.”
Useful links
• JobUniverse, website: www.jobuniverse.fr. For high-tech jobs in France.
• IKEA, website: www.ikea.fr.
• Initiatives Emploi, website: www.init-emploi.tm.fr. A French jobs website.
• Cadre Emploi, website: www.cadremploi.tm.fr. French jobs site for
managers and executives.
57
58
Chapter Six
Creating a Business
Setting up a business can mean many things, from being self-
employed––that includes freelancers and consultants––to creating a
corporation. As unemployment is still high in France, the country is
keen to attract companies, which are seen as investment and job cre-
ators. France does an excellent job of attracting multinational compa-
nies but largely ignores the power of small business to create jobs.
Consultant or company?
Many expats get stuck in the belief that becoming a consultant or
self-employed travailleur indépendant (independent worker) is the best
avenue to securing legal and profitable work status in France. It is for
some, especially those serious businesspersons who intend to remain in
France for at least several years and can count on pulling in revenue that
is about double their living expenses. However, many people don’t fully
realize that a consultant must, as do all self-employed persons and busi-
nesses in France, pay burdensome French social charges, health insur-
ance premiums, pension payments, as well as professional, income and
value-added taxes. Also, small-business people are often seen as poten-
tial tax cheats. It’s a different mentality than in the U.S., for example,
where freelancing is fairly common. Thus, becoming an independent is
not always a viable solution. To illustrate that point, we offer the fol-
lowing case study.
Stuart’s dilemma
When Stuart, a Paris-based TV producer, realized a few years back
that being a travailleur indépendant had been a big mistake, he found
himself so inextricably tied to the French system that it took him
59
months to win back his freedom. “It’s like putting yourself into the lion’s
den,” says Stuart, a native of Britain. Forming a company may be more
appropriate for some self-employed people.
“The most basic consideration is a legal one: limitation of liability,”

says Paris-based tax, business, and immigration lawyer Sam Okoshken
of Samuel Okoshken & Associates. Independents have to consider
whether they are “in an activity where they are exposed to being sued.”
If so, then it’s generally advisable to set up a company that “will, in
many instances, serve as a barrier between you and your creditors as
well as other predators.” He also points out that a company may offer
more flexible tax planning.
That’s why Stuart ultimately set up his own société à responsabilité

limitée or SARL (limited liability company). This form of incorporation
allows him to reclaim value-added taxes on overseas purchases of film
and video equipment. It also frees him from charging value-added tax
to foreign customers. For Stuart, these tax breaks alone make the dif-
ference for him between profit and loss. “I look at myself still as a free-
lancer but use the company to regulate everything. I can bill people
properly.” Keep in mind that this is only one person’s experience.
There is at least one drawback for U.S. citizens who choose to cre-
ate a company. Such individuals must report their business earnings to
French tax authorities as well as to the U.S. Internal Revenue. “In addi-
tion, owners of foreign companies have to attach to their U.S. individ-
ual tax return a form that essentially presents their corporate financial
data in U.S. terms,” Mr. Okoshken says. “It can be expensive, but there
are penalties for not doing it.”
Setting up a for-profit company in France requires an initial capital

investment of at least 7,600 euro ($9,500). On the other hand, no up-
front capital is necessary to become a travailleur indépendant. Mr.
Okoshken argues that this isn’t a sufficient reason to opt for self-
employed status. “It may still be inappropriate for a given individual and
may be more difficult to transform into other business forms later on.”
URSSAF, the French agency for the self-employed, (website:

www.urssaf.fr) was actually Stuart’s second brush with the French
60
Creating a Business
bureaucracy. Soon after he first arrived in Paris in 1992, he signed up

with Assedic, Association pour l’Emploi dans l’Industrie et le Commerce,
(website: www.assedic.fr) and Congés Spectacles, which is fairly standard
practice for getting legal work status for an independent in the enter-
tainment industry. However, Stuart experienced great difficulty securing
work through the Congé as many employers tend to find the process
involved expensive and unwieldy, particularly when inexpensive noir
help is so readily available in this field. Simply put, “people with the
Congé were getting ripped off,” Stuart says. Although he is frustrated
with French bureaucracy, Stuart still advises independents to acquire
legal business status as it offers the most control over the bottom line.
Illegal workers risk not being paid, and don’t receive health or other
social benefits. “There is a lot of illegal work. Everybody does it but, at
the end of the day, it’s a real pain. It ain’t worth it.”
Independent status may well suit you for the short-term, but you’ll
most likely want to start a proper business at some point. After several
years as a travilleur indépendant, Katherine, a translator, “finally decided
to incorporate myself, to save on taxes and social charges. However, that
is only because my business is going so well, so I can hardly complain.
I still think it was a good idea to start as an indépendant, as I had no idea
whether I would actually make any money or not. In addition, I’ve
acquired personal assets (a house, car, etc.), and I need the protection
of a limited liability company.”
Becoming a travailleur independant

If, after reading the above, you still want to become a travailleur
indépendant, read on. If you want to consider becoming a company,
move onto the next section. For all applicants, a carte de séjour is theo-
retically required first. While we have heard stories of people who sign
up at URSSAF, Union de Recouvrement de Securité et d'Allocations
Familiales, as a travailleur indépendant first and subsequently acquire a
carte de séjour from the préfecture, we thought you should know and
understand the official line.
Once you have your carte de séjour, signing up is the easy part.
URSSAF takes applications directly for non-commercial independents,
61
such as English teachers or freelance writers, whose professions aren’t

regulated by the state. Our discussion here is limited to this profession-
al category. Commerçants (businesspeople with a product to sell) or arti-
sans (craftspeople) go through their local Chambre de Commerce.
Professionals that are reglementé, such as lawyers and accountants, must
go to their professional ordre, chamber, or syndicat. The process at
URSSAF and the other agencies is similar.
Keep in mind that your payments into the French social security sys-
tem start immediately. The bills will start coming one to three months after
the application is filed. It’s difficult to generalize how much the average tra-
vailleur indépendant can expect to pay out in charges and taxes as many
depend on net revenue (i.e. earnings after expenses). Some independents
suggest a budget of approximately 2,900 euro ($3,500) for the first year,
even if income is zero. As a simple rule of thumb, independents should set
aside 40% of total earnings to pay charges and taxes other than income tax.
Should they earn no income, independents will still be expected to pay sig-
nificant flat or minimum charges. Those considering becoming travailleurs
indépendants are advised to project their charges and taxes and to be aware
of all bookkeeping requirements beforehand.
URSSAF itself bills independents for allocations familiales (aid to

families with dependent children) as well as for contribution sociale
généralisée (supplemental welfare tax). AF is currently 5.4% of net rev-
enue, while CSG and other surtaxes equal 10%. However, for the first
two years of business, URSSAF bills for AF and CSG are based on esti-
mated annual net of about 6,100 euro ($7,500). By the third year,
URSSAF catches up and bills according to actual net in the first year of
business. AF and CSG paid in the first year of business are credited at
which time a refund is paid or a makeup payment charged.
URSSAF also alerts a caisse maladie (health insurer) and a caisse de

retraite (pension fund), as well as the tax authorities, which bill accord-
ingly. Payments for the obligatory health insurance is about 900 euro
($1,100) in the first year of business and the same amount in the sec-
ond year if net falls under approximately 9,500 euro ($11,600). This
charge reflects a 30% reduction in health insurance charges for startups
in the first 24 months of business, perhaps the biggest benefit of the “loi
62
Creating a Business
Madelin” (Madelin Law) that came into effect in 1994. If net is greater
than 9,500 euro, the charge is 12.85% of net less 30% for those in the
second year of business. There are four caisses maladies to choose from,
but all tend to offer similar services: a 50% reimbursement on routine
medical services and 100% on maternity and long-term hospitalization.
Pension payments vary widely according to the caisse.

Independents are automatically assigned a caisse based on the descrip-
tion they give to URSSAF of their professional activity. Language teach-
ers, for example, are assigned to CREA, Caisse de Retraite de
l’Enseignement et des Arts Appliqués. No payment is due the first year. In
subsequent years, no payment is due if net falls under 2,800 euro
($3,400). Above that level, the charge is fixed at 360 euro ($450) plus
1.4% of net.
Last but not least are the tax collectors. The Direction General des
Impôts collects income tax as well as value-added tax (TVA) and audits
travailleurs indépendants.
The tax authorities require self-employed persons to choose

between spécial, évaluation administrative which is rarely used, and decla-
ration controlée, two distinct tax regimes with distinct rules about book-
keeping and allowable deductions. Once the regime is selected, poten-
tial travailleurs indépendants can calculate their estimated tax. The special
regime can be selected if total earnings are less than 15,240 euro
($18,600). This tax category offers highly simplified bookkeeping and
an automatic flat deduction of 25% representing business expenses.
While people in this regime can’t bill TVA, which is a blessing, they also
can’t recover TVA paid for equipment and other business purchases.
Declaration controlée requires serious and detailed bookkeeping but

can offer significant tax breaks. For example, people under this regime
might reduce their taxable income by 20% if, within the first three
months of starting their business, they join an Association de Gestion
Agréée, a non-profit group that helps professional independents with
accounting, administrative and legal questions.
Travailleurs indépendants have varying views about the value of join-

ing an Association Agréée, whose members run less of a chance of being
63
audited by the income tax department. As Katherine puts it, “Who

wants to risk an audit? They offer some very interesting training semi-
nars, and do help members keep their accounting straight. As for the
effort required, ‘a stitch in time saves nine.’ Why worry about a night-
mare audit? (And it does happen!)” Rodger, also a travailleur independ-
ent, is less enthusiastic about these organizations. In light of the mem-
bership dues, he says, “The 20% tax reduction is a weak argument
unless your net income is subject to an income tax of more than 760
euro ($930).” With regard to the bookkeeping classes, Rodger says they
“are not very frequent nor do they go into any great depth,” and adds
that “the Association Agréée requires you to submit your bookkeeping
and tax filings in the first quarter of each year, including a balance of
assets and liabilities. A novice will have a tough time reconstituting a
balance. Unless the accounting records submitted are perfect, the asso-
ciation will harass the member to no end and require ‘personal inter-
views’ for accounting review. Any member who does not comply with
their rules to the letter gets snitched on to the tax authorities by the
association.” Sam Okoshken is a proponent of the Association Agréée
and says, “The accounting aspects are minor when compared to the sig-
nificant income tax break you get as a member, the lessened probabili-
ty of a full-fledged income tax audit, and a somewhat fraternal organi-
zation which tries to keep its members on the straight and narrow, in
the interest of doing good business.”
Professional tax requirements vary from locale to locale and are

based on a complex formula including such factors as size of office
space. Inquire about minimums at the local Centre des Impôts.
Creating a company
There are a variety of corporate structures in France of which the
most common are:
• Société anonyme (SA), a limited liability company similar to an

American corporation. An SA, which can be quoted on the stock
exchange, requires at least seven shareholders and a minimum cap-
ital (in cash, kind, or both) of 38,100 euro ($46,000). An annual
official audit is required.
64
Creating a Business
• Société à responsabilitié limitée (SARL), a limited liability compa-

ny suited to smaller organizations and startups. An SARL requires
two shareholders and capital of at least 7,620 euro ($9300).
Accounts must be registered with the Tribunal de Commerce.
If you are a sole proprietor, you may wish to become an enterprise

unipersonnelle à responsabilité limitée (EURL). The same amount of cap-
ital, 7,620 euro ($9,300), is needed to create an EURL or SARL, but
there are more legal and accounting obligations for EURLs. However,
an EURL is easier and, at approximately 150 euro ($182), inexpensive
to create. The French Chamber of Commerce has all necessary appli-
cations. The other forms of incorporation can set you back at least
760 euro ($920).
The bureaucracy involved in setting up a company can be daunt-

ing. If you are not yet in France, your first step should be to contact the
French Embassy or consulate in your home country or the nearest
Invest in France agency (www.investinfrance.org). You’ll need to apply for
a visa de long séjour and a carte de commerçant (foreign traders’ card)
before you move to France. If you are already in France with a residen-
cy permit, you may apply for the carte de commerçant separately.
France has tried to trim the red tape with the creation of Centres de
Formalités des Entreprises (Business Formalities Centers)
(www.ccip.fr/cfe/sommaire/sommaire.htm). It’s almost a one-stop shop for
creating a business. The CFE handles all necessary registrations with
governmental agencies. There are still some formalities you must han-
dle yourself: registering with the tax authorities; and depositing the
share capital. Dealing directly with a CFE shouldn’t be a problem if your
French is good and you have time for the paperwork. Otherwise, there
is no dearth of advisers, lawyers, and agencies who can help you for a
fee. We recommend Jean Taquet, who is the author of the Insider Guide
to Practical Answers for Living in France. For personal consultation, con-
tact Jean Taquet, e-mail: taquet@insiderparisguides.com. Contact infor-
mation for other lawyers is available in the Guide for U.S. Citizens
Residing in France published by the U.S. Embassy in Paris. The Agence
pour la Création d’Entreprise (www.apce.com) maintains a multi-lingual
website and is a valuable resource for basic information. Two outstand-
65
ing books in French on creating a business are: Créer une Entreprise en

Profession Libérale, and Créer une Entreprise en Prestataire de Services,
both by Maryse Migliore and available through online booksellers like
www.amazon.fr. Also see accounting firm Cabinet Bruno Broc’s links for
starting a company: http://perso.wanadoo.fr/brocexco/bsit_1.htm.
Creating a business presence in France

Short of creating a business, you can easily develop a market in
France through distribution or agency agreements with French firms
and individuals. While this may not actually allow you to live and work
in France, it may be a good first step. A commercial agent negotiates in
the name of a producer, manufacturer, or merchant whereas a distribu-
tor purchases and resells goods for his or her own account.
Other options are opening a bureau de représentation (liaison

office) or a succursale (branch office). While a branch office can
engage in business, creating one is at least as involved as creating an
SARL. Thus, most businesses opt for a liaison office. The activities of
a liaison office are essentially limited to marketing, and commercial
activity is prohibited. Its activities aren’t taxable in France and foreign
personnel aren’t required to obtain a carte de commerçant. While there
is a minimum of bureaucracy, in order to avoid being classified as a
taxable entity, the office must ensure that the business conforms to a
somewhat rigid definition.
Creating an association
Creating a non-profit association is relatively easy in France.
Because non-profits enjoy substantial tax breaks, there are many abuses
of the classification. We’ve heard of expats who have formed associa-
tions for the sole purpose of ensuring themselves a job. Sam Okoshken
strongly advises against the practice and says, “It is not intended to be
used by a commercial or other profit-seeking enterprise. In any event,
directors or officers of the association may not receive a salary or any
other form of remuneration from the association.” We don’t want to
scare people who have a legitimate reason to associate. Many educa-
tional, sports, religious, cultural, and philanthropic organizations oper-
66
Creating a Business
ate legally as nonprofits. Keep in mind that you cannot become eligible
for a residency card by creating an association as a for-profit business.
Here are the basics: People can organize into nonprofit associations
freely and without declaring themselves to the government, even if
some or all of their members are foreigners. However, to exist legally, be
eligible for aid, buy or sell in its name, or seek justice, an association
must be declared. Making a declaration by dossier to the local préfecture,
is simple, fast, and free. The dossier should include basic information
on the association, its officers and administrators, as well as copies of
the association’s statutes. You may also need to declare your association
at a CFE if you have employees or if your products or services are tax-
able. If your dossier is in order, the préfecture will issue the association
proof of your declaration within five days, after which you can request
publication in the Invest in Journal Officiel (www.journal-officiel.gouv.fr),
the French government journal that makes it all legal. Inclusion in the
journal will cost approximately 45 euro ($55).
Useful links
• CCIP, website: www.ccip.fr. Chambre de Commerce et d’Industrie de
Paris (The Paris Chamber of Commerce).
• Centragest-Libéral, website: www.centragestliberal.com. An association
agréée for professions libérales (non-regulated self-employed workers).
67
68
Chapter Seven
Making the Move
If you are moving to France permanently, the general rule is that
you may bring your “personal and household effects” without incurring
duties. Of course, there is paperwork involved, particularly with respect
to pets and cars. Please see the Embassy of France in the U.S. website
for conditions: www.ambafrance-us.org/intheus/customs/1000.asp. The
general idea is that you are going to use these items for personal use,
rather than sell them for profit, and that you’re not going to bring in
drugs, firearms, and other dangerous products. The rules are entirely
different if you are importing new goods for sale. For those coming
into France on a carte de séjour visiteur with a substantial number of
personal effects, legal adviser Jean Taquet recommends requesting a
demande de franchise (waiver of customs) from the French consulate
that issues the visa.
Don’t bring the appliances, but do bring…

I don’t recommend bringing large U.S. electric appliances, such as
refrigerators, to France. If you do, you’ll have to purchase transform-
ers or converters plus plug adapters and may experience a drop in per-
formance. Note that while converters are for short-term use with low-
watt electrical devices (such as razors), transformers are for long-term
use with high-watt electronics (such as home stereos). While convert-
ers and transformers affect the voltage of electronic and electrical
devices, they don’t alter cycles. French current is 220 volts/50 cycles,
whereas U.S. current is 110 volts/60 cycles. We nearly ruined an air
cleaner and vacuum cleaner by trying to run them with transformers.
We purchased most of our transformers and French plug ends at the
department store, BHV (www.bhv.fr).
69
We recommend that you purchase kitchen appliances here either

second-hand or new and resell them upon departure. There is a good
market for used appliances in France. For larger second-hard appli-
ances, think ahead about how you’ll transport your bargain home, as
delivery is not usually included. We bought our new appliances at Darty
(www.darty.fr) and purchased second-hand through ads in FUSAC.
Lamps purchased in the U.S. will work here with a change in the
plug and a French light bulb; no transformer is needed. Newer PCs and
other computer electronics sold in the U.S. are dual voltage and gener-
ally don’t need transformers. You will, however, need French plugs and
cables. A surge protector purchased in France is recommended. Of
course, battery-powered items will work just fine here. As one reader of
WLIF noted with respect to power tools, “For some, the charger worked
with the transformer. For others, I found the equivalent local charger,
which still was less expensive than the tool. For the power tools, I
bought new ones. Just as with kitchen appliances, things are made dif-
ferently here, and it has been a joy to experience European tools. U.S.
tools will work with a transformer, [though] slightly slower” (due to the
difference in cycles).
Because your U.S. television won’t pick up live French signals,

you’ll most likely need to purchase a European set. However, if you
have an extensive U.S. video collection, and don’t want to give that up,
you must bring the U.S. boob tube and VCR, because chances are that
your tapes either won’t work here or will play only in black and white
on a French TV set and VCR. You’ll obviously need transformers to run
them unless they are “multi-format” (i.e. designed to run in both the
U.S. and Europe). If you’re in the market for a new TV and video, we
recommend that you buy in multi-format. Note that both U.S. TV and
video run on the NTSC standard, as opposed to the French SECAM
standard. Newer televisions in France can play SECAM as well as PAL,
the standard elsewhere in Europe. Used French TVs are highly sought
after because second owners can temporarily avoid the dreaded annual
audiovisual tax (about $100 per year).
When in doubt about whether your electrical device will work in

France without a transformer or adapter, read the fine print on the back
70
Making the Move
of the item or ask the manufacturer. Newer devices may tolerate a range
of volts and cycles that work in both the U.S. and Europe. Also visit the
following informative websites about buying transformers, multi-sys-
tem TVs and VCRs, dual-voltage appliances, plug adapters, and tele-
phone conversion jacks:
• DVD Overseas Electronics: website: www.dvdoverseas.com/voltage_

converters.htm.
• World Gift Center: website: www.world-import.com/info.htm.
• Global Connections: website: http://globalconnections-int.com/con-
verters%20&%20transformers.htm.
Magazines, such as Que Choisir (www.quechoisir.org) and 60 Million

des Consommateurs (www.conso.net), rate consumer goods for value and
performance.
What about the furniture?

Note that furnished apartments cost more to rent in France than do
unfurnished apartments. When deciding whether to rent furnished or
not, consider the length of your stay, whether you or your company is
paying for the move, the costs of storage in your home country, and how
much it will cost to outfit an apartment in France, be it from the won-
derful antiques stores, the fabulous flea markets, or from stores like
IKEA (www.ikea.fr). There are four IKEA stores in the suburbs, all of
which are accessible via public transportation. They offer a delivery
service as well as online shopping. Although my husband came on a
one-year contract, we gambled on three and rented an unfurnished
apartment. Prior to our move, we bought new furniture from IKEA and
a futon shop in the U.S., and had it shipped to France on the company
tab. We decided to buy at IKEA in the U.S. rather than France as prices
are about 20% more here due to high sales taxes. Another popular store
for outfitting the home is Habitat (www.habitat.net/open_france.htm).
Finding a mover
Unless you have few belongings, most people opt for contracting
with a moving company to ship their goods abroad. We recommend
71
that you obtain bids from three different companies. A representative

from the company will come to your home, eyeball what has to be
moved and make an estimate. You may opt to transport some of your
goods by air as the shipped items will take several weeks to arrive.
What may be tricky is timing the arrival of your shipped goods with
the beginning of the lease on your new apartment. In any case, mov-
ing companies generally offer storage services. Some reputable inter-
national movers are:
• Allied Arthur Pierre, website: www.alliedarthurpierre.com.

• Tower, website: www.towermovers.com.
• Grospiron, website: www.grospiron.com.
• Interdean, website: www.interdean.com.
• Neer Service Movers, website: www.neerservice.fr.
Keep in mind that the moving company will not insure items you
pack yourself. A good moving company can offer advice on customs
and the required French paperwork, such as the inventaire detaillé
(detailed inventory), which is a list of all your items going into France.
Also see the section below on pets.
Relocation companies
Relocation companies offer services, which range from finding
accommodations to assisting in car, appliance, and furniture purchases.
These companies can also provide information on schools and the com-
munity. Some well-known relocation companies are:
• Cosmopolitain Services Unlimited, website: www.cosmopolitan

services.com.
• Isiparis, website: www.isiparis.com.
• CMI (Consulting Moving International), website: wwwcmiae.
com/en/index.htm.
Diana Morales, an expat relocation assistant formerly at Cocitra

(www.cocitra-relocation.com), says, “Our main job is finding suitable
housing. Generally we’re hired by a company to help their employees
find housing in a reasonable amount of time so they lose the least
72
Making the Move
amount of work and are comfortably installed as quickly and as easi-

ly as possible. In our basic service, we talk to the employee [to] find
out what they want, send them a questionnaire [and] go over that
with them. We research homes that fit their description.” Diana finds
that a great deal of her time is spent preparing the employee for what
to reasonably expect. “A lot of people want old buildings. We warn
them that there are not likely to be closets and parking, and that the
floors are hardwood. We try to clear up those things beforehand.”
Diana, who works mostly with British, Norwegian, German, and
American clients, finds Americans to be least satisfied with accom-
modation size and cost.
After Diana searches for available apartments, she sets up a day to

visit them all with the prospective tenant. “We go and pick up the per-
son and take them to visit the apartments. We act as a go-between if
they don’t speak French. When they choose their home, we get the
application prepared and do all the talking to the agency. Once it’s
accepted we set up a time to sign the lease and do the inventory and we
even sign for them, if necessary. We also get their home insurance ready
and set up basic utilities: telephone, electricity, gas, and water.” She
finds that her clients have many questions in the first month, which she
tries to answer as respectfully as possible. The following are a few of
Diana’s favorites: Do pigeons fly into apartments? (Not likely.) Can we
paint or add something? (Probably with permission.) Can we add a
chain lock on the door? (Probably with permission.) Will the owner buy
sheets for the furnished apartment? (Probably not.)
The company, for an additional fee, can also set up cable TV, a
maintenance contract for the furnace, a neighborhood orientation tour,
and a school search. Ms. Morales says very few individuals contract with
the company. It’s mostly companies who provide the service for employ-
ees moving to France. One little known service that Cocitra provides for
certain clients is “Loca-Pass,” the rental guarantee and the security
deposit that is usually equivalent to two months’ rent. The service is
geared for employees of companies, people under 30, and students.
(Note: Diana has moved onto another job, but we’ve retained her com-
ments because they describe the process so well.)
73
Finding accommodations
Finding a rental is difficult in France because there is no single real-
estate market and no central information service as such. We suggest
you search the Internet, scour the classified ads, and make the rounds
of the real-estate agents. With regard to Paris, look at the classified ads
in the following publications: Le Figaro (www.lefigaro.fr), France-Soir,
(www.francesoir.fr), FUSAC (www.fusac.fr), and De Particulier à Particulier
(Person to Person) (www.pap.fr).
If you want assistance in locating an apartment to rent short- or

long-term, or even to find an apartment or home to purchase, contact
Porter Scott at parisrentals@InternationalLiving.com.
Reading a classified ad
Here’s a typical ad that we’ll decode for you.
3-4 pieces meuble metro exelmans dans un bel immeuble ancien avec
ascenceur, digicode, bel appartement compose d’une entree, d’un sejour, d’une
salle a manger, d’une cuisine entierement equipee lave et seche linge, lave
vaisselle, fours plaques, frigo et congelateur, pres des commerces et des trans-
ports. Cabinet joujon
This ad is for a three to four room apartment near the Métro stop
Exelmans in a beautiful old building with elevator and a coded access
at the door. This “beautiful apartment” is comprised of a foyer, a living
room, a dining room, a fully equipped kitchen (a nice bonus!) includ-
ing a washer and dryer, oven, stovetop, refrigerator, and freezer. It’s near
shops and transportation. Agent: Cabinet Joujon.
Temporary lodgings
If you are on a three-month dip or need time to find your long-term
apartment, you’ll probably opt for temporary lodgings in France. There
are three options: a cheap hotel, a residence hotel, or an apartment. The
latter is hard to find for a term beyond one week and less than one year
because these rentals aren’t lucrative for the owner. Residence hotels
and apartments come equipped with kitchens, which makes dining at
74
Making the Move
home an option. For apartments, you’ll be subletting or working

through an agency, as landlords don’t sign leases for less than a year.
Before our big move, we contracted sight-unseen for a 30-square meter
apartment at $2,000 per month. It still worked out cheaper than a hotel
when we took into account the cost-saving advantage dining at home
would provide. For short-term rentals, contact Porter Scott at paris-
rentals@InternationalLiving.com.
Long-term rentals
Rental prices in Paris are a benchmark for the country. In the big
city, it’s now a seller’s market. There is a shortage of desirable rentals,
especially for two-bedroom apartments. The price for an apartment is
around 20 euro per square meter ($2.30 per square foot), according to
the magazine De Particulier à Particulier, www.pap.fr. The cheapest
arrondissements were the 18th, 19th, and 20th, and the most expensive
was the 6th. Cheaper rents apply outside of city limits and in other parts
of France. The monthly rental charge doesn’t usually include charges,
which are fees covering utilities common to the building, such as water,
elevator maintenance costs, and rental taxes. It is the tenant’s responsi-
bility to pay for the annual checks of individual apartment furnaces or
chimneys and the municipal taxe d’habitation (property tax). Note that,
in France, leases usually run for three years. If that scares you, note that
tenants can terminate a lease with one to three months’ notice should
their employment situation change.
A very common question about Paris is: What arrondissements are

the best? I find that there is no cut-and-dried answer. I chose the 16th,
which also happens to be a favorite of American expats for its proximi-
ty to American schools, because it was close to my husband’s work and
close to the Bois de Boulogne, a sprawling park. Others dislike the 16th
because they find it snobbish. My general advice is to live close to work
or schools and take public transportation to play. Although it may seem
ideal to live in the center of Paris, keep in mind that the city’s millions
of tourists tend to gravitate to the area. As a rule of thumb, U.S. cities
are usually run-down while the suburbs are considered desirable places
to live. While Paris has some posh suburbs, the word banlieue in France
has about the same connotation as “inner city” does in the U.S.
75
No matter where you live, landlords will want to know that you
can afford the rent. Either you must have the bucks yourself or have a
guarantor. It is not out of the question for the landlord to ask for one
year’s rent in advance. At the signing of the lease, be prepared with a
caution (deposit) of one to two months, a one-month advance, and the
agency fees (often one-month rental). Comprehensive household
insurance is mandatory. The housing situation in Paris is so tight that
your application might be refused just because you are a foreigner. As
such, be prepared to commit as soon as you see the apartment. House
rentals, while uncommon in Paris, may be found in the suburbs and
in other parts of the country.
There are three types of apartment houses: old buildings, buildings

built after 1960, and highrises built after 1980. Older apartments cer-
tainly have their charms, but may lack the closet space and under-
ground parking of newer buildings. Landlords offer either furnished or
unfurnished apartments. Unfurnished apartments have unequipped
kitchens and may even lack kitchen cabinets. Furnished apartments are
rare as they are generally on the market only in cases where the owners
will be away for several years.
Telecommunications and utilities

Hooking up utilities—gas, electric, and telecommunications—is
quick and efficient in France. (Tenants need not be concerned about
water distribution, as the building management handles this. If you are
renting a house, ask your landlord about water provisions.) Electricity
and gas are handled by Electricité de France and Gaz de France
(EDF/GDF) (www.edf.fr—click on the British flag for the site in English),
state-owned companies that have a unified customer operation. To
establish service, visit your local EDF/GDF center.
Similarly, via the web, find the nearest office of France Telecom
(www.francetelecom.com to hook up telecommunications service). Since
this site can be difficult to navigate if your French is iffy, don’t hesitate
to avail of the company’s free English-language help line at 0800-36-47-
75. To open an account, you’ll generally be required to produce a copy
of your lease, your passport, and an RIB (see the section on Paying bills)
76
Making the Move
or 215 euro ($270) deposit in cash or check. France Telecom will be

happy to sell you a telephone, a mobile telephone package, as well as
the company’s Wanadoo Internet access. Shop around. You may be able
to purchase telephones that are compatible with France Telecom’s serv-
ice at department stores and other shops.
France Telecom, formerly entirely state-owned, used to be the only

telecom company. Due to deregulation, there are now many new play-
ers. For inexpensive cellular and long-distance service outside your
region and internationally—I recommend Global Access, a service sold
through Primus Telegroup and resellers such as Affinity Telecom
(www.affinitytele.com/Spectra-France.htm). My friends recommend
One.Tel (www.onetel.fr), which works automatically from your phone
line with no special access number.
Paying bills
There are various ways to pay utility and other recurring bills. Most
people pay by prélèvement automatique from a euro bank account. To set
one up, the payee must request a relevé d’identité bancaire (RIB), a tear-
out form in the back of a French checkbook that lists account and bank
numbers. For its part, the bank requires a written request for the
prélèvement automatique. The money you owe is automatically taken out
of your bank account each payment period. We pay our landlord, EDF,
and one France Telecom bill using this method and have never had a
problem with the service.
Another method is to pay with a titre interbancaire de paiement or

TIP, which alerts your bank to pay the other party’s bank. To do this,
you must send the TIP together with a RIB.
You may also pay by check, money order, or in cash at the post
office. The post office will charge a nominal fee for cash payments.
France Telecom will accept Carte Bleue and foreign credit cards at its
office at 123, rue La Fontaine in the 16th arrondissement and at 57, rue
des Archives in the 3rd.
77
Internet access
Internet access is available through the telephone lines as well as by
cable. If you want cable access, your choice is set, as cable operators
have monopolies over certain areas. Noos (www.noos.fr) (formerly
Cybercâble) operates in the Paris area. Câble Wanadoo (France
Telecom) (www.cablewanadoo.com/portail/pg_intro.htm) operates
throughout Marseille. Other players include Numéricâble (www.numer-
icable.com) and Chello (www.chello.com).
How to choose between cable and telephone access? If you are con-
sidering standard access through your telephone line, keep in mind that
you will have to pay for each telephone call made. Local calls are not
included in the monthly fee. Count on higher bills if you live in a
remote location and must make a toll call to access the net. Local tele-
phone service is about two euro ($2.44) an hour at peak rates and one
euro ($1.22) an hour off-peak. France Telecom does offer discounts that
benefit frequent users such as their Primaliste service, which offers sav-
ings up to 25% on frequently dialed numbers. Some Internet service
providers now offer packages that include the underlying telephone
service. France Telecom’s Wanadoo service, for example, offers 10 hours
of access at 8 euro ($10) a month and up to 60 hours for 23 euro ($28).
Still, if you use the Internet frequently, consider cable or high-speed

ADSL access (a high-tech telephone line service), which is available in
many areas of France. With ADSL, you can telephone and surf the web
through the same line. France Telecom offers ADSL access at about 45
euro ($55) per month, which requires the purchase of a modem for
about 150 euro ($185). Cable operates over a dedicated coaxial cable
that runs into the home, thus freeing up your telephone line. The fees
for unlimited cable access start at about 30 euro ($37) per month,
excluding installation fees and deposits.
There are many telephone Internet access providers to choose from

in France. On the one hand, there are free providers; on the other, there
are the “fee” providers. By free we mean that access is free whereas tele-
phone service is not. (There were a few ISPs who provided completely
free service, but all except one has gone out of business, and that one is
78
Making the Move
not accepting new customers.) In deciding between free and fee

providers, the deciding factor should pertain to service. If you are a
“newbie,” we recommend using a fee provider. AOL France (www.aol.fr)
and Club Internet (www.club-internet.fr) are very popular paid services.
If you’re more experienced, you may prefer to use a free provider.
Free.fr (www.free.fr) is a reputable one. There are too many to list here,
but there is a great French website (www.lesprovider.com) that compares
the pros and cons of all French ISPs. Occasional users may find it most
cost-effective to access the Internet at a local cybercafe or at the
American Library. (See the section “Logistics for the Dip.”)
As for whether to retain your home country ISP or use local

providers, keep in mind that bigger ISPs, such as AOL and
CompuServe, belong to international networks. Thus, you might wish
to continue service if they have a local, toll-free French number for
access. Other home country ISPs might carry a substantial surcharge for
French access. Check with your provider for details. If you are a fre-
quent business traveler, look into Ipass (www.ipass.com). We found it
cheapest of all to switch from our U.S. Compuserve account to Noos,
despite the fact that we live in Paris. We regretted having to change our
e-mail addresses, but thought it was about time to secure permanent e-
mail addresses independent of our access provider! We created our cur-
rent e-mail addresses through our alumni associations.
To connect your computer (if it has an internal modem) or modem

to the phone jack, you’ll need French plugs and wires. You’ll find this
equipment at bigger hardware and department stores.
Driving you mad

Besides the crazy French traffic circles, what mainly drives expats
mad is the need for French drivers’ licenses. In many cases, it means
going back to driving school! We have heard of several expats who
have driven with foreign licenses for years without incident, but we
don’t advise it.
If you are in France for 90 days or less (i.e. on a tourist visa), you
may drive with your home country license. An international driving
79
permit alone won’t do. However, it is suggested that you carry an inter-
national license (or a bona fide French translation of your permit) along
with the home license. Beware of scam artists! The U.S. State
Department has authorized only two sellers of International permits:
the AAA (www.aaa.com/scripts/WebObjects.dll/ZipCode) and the American
Automobile Touring Alliance club (www.nationalautoclub.com). The fee
for an international license is $10. If you reside in France for more than
90 days (i.e. on a carte de séjour), your home license is valid for a one-
year period beginning from the date your residency permit becomes
valid. This period is intended to give you time to obtain your French
driver’s license. Students are entitled to drive with their home country
permit for the duration of their studies.
There are two ways to obtain a license: by exchanging it, which is

possible if, and only if, your state has an agreement with France, or by
taking the written and driving portions of the French licensing exam. In
order to avoid attending driving school, which is time-consuming and
expensive, research whether your country or region of residence has an
agreement with France. Member countries of the European Union and
European Economic Area all have agreements.
There are currently 13 U.S. states with such agreements: Colorado,

Connecticut, Delaware, Florida, Illinois, Kansas, Kentucky, Michigan,
New Hampshire, Ohio, Pennsylvania, South Carolina, and Virginia. The
U.S. Consulate in Paris (www.amb-usa.fr/consul/guideoas/driving.pdf) is
the best source for information on new agreements. There are two
Canadian provinces with reciprocal agreements: Quebec and
Newfoundland. For more info, visit www.dfait-aeci.gc.ca/canada
europa/france/consulaire/permisqc-en.asp.
If you are entitled to legally drive with a license from one of these
states or provinces, apply for a French driver’s license at your local pré-
fecture in your French city of residence at least three months before the
recognition period expires. If your home government doesn’t have an
agreement, perhaps you can lobby for one.
If you are ineligible for an exchange, we recommend the

Fehrenbach Driving School in Paris (http://membres.tripod.fr/Sara_Sara/
80
Making the Move
Driving/Drive.html), which provides an English-language translation of

the French driver’s manual for its students as well as a translator for the
driving exam. For other driving schools, ask if there are special courses
for non-French speakers. A friend, relative, or professional who can
translate may accompany you on the driving test.
Residents of France must register their cars at the préfecture. With

this carte grise (registration), car owners may obtain French plates at
most service stations. All drivers are required to carry valid insurance.
(See the Money and Finance chapter’s section on insurance.) Seat belts
are mandatory in France and passengers under the age of 10 are
required to ride in the back seat. U-turns are illegal (though everyone
does it!) and the speed limit is 50 km/h in town unless otherwise stat-
ed. Traffic must yield to vehicles priorité à droite (coming from the right),
particularly in Paris.
Pets
Note that pets are not subject to quarantine upon entering France
such as they are in the U.K. However, they will need up-to-date rabies
shots and medical checkups. You’ll need to start the process at least four
months ahead of time. See the Embassy of France in the U.S. website at
www.ambafrance-us.org/intheus/customs/7000.asp for full information and
printable health certificates. A representative from the airline will most
likely check that the paperwork is in order. As such, it’s advisable to
contact your airline with respect to what paperwork is required. Our cat
needed a checkup and current rabies shot after which she was required
to wear a collar with a rabies tag. We were required to carry a rabies cer-
tificate and transport her in an airline-approved case (available in most
pet stores). While airline personnel did review our paperwork, we
cleared customs with a wave. If your animal is small enough to fit under
your seat, the airline may allow you to take the pet on board. I’ve heard
horror stories about animal fatalities in cargo compartments, but our cat
survived the trip. A pet tranquilizer can limit the stress.
Good quality pet food is more expensive in Paris than in the U.S. and
can be purchased through your veterinarian or pet shop. One problem
expats have, as they travel widely, is finding pet sitters. A friend of mine
81
had a great experience with Michael House, who runs a business called
Expat Petsitting (http://mapage.noos.fr/expatpetsitting). I can personally rec-
ommend the Clinique Vétérinaire du Dr. Gittins, 47 rue St. Charles, 15th
arrondissement, tel. (331)40-59-04-76. Dr. Gittins speaks English.
Useful links
• Insider Guide to Good Value Paris Hotels, website:
www.insiderparisguides.com.
• Paris Hotel Service, website: www.parishotelservice.com. (Helps find

hotels, residences, or apartments at no fee to you.)
• L’Internaute, website: www.linternaute.com/surfer/witbe/index.shtml.

This French site publishes a weekly ranking of ISPs.
• The National Touring Club, website: www.nationalautoclub.com/

htmlidp.html. They offer legal international drivers’ licenses online.
Tips for keeping in touch with home

• International phone rates are dropping, but some people swear by
Internet telephony. Try DeltaThree (www.iconnecthere.com).
• Maintain a “virtual” home-country address—a street address rather
than a P.O. Box—of a friend, parent, or whomever. As some U.S.
Internet sites require a U.S. address, this practice makes online
shopping more convenient.
• Hire a mail-forwarding service, such as Mail Boxes Etc. in the U.S.,
and make sure you can manage your account over the Internet.
You’ll be required to provide a street address. Mail Boxes Etc.
screens out junk mail and automatically debits a credit card for
monthly fees.
• Keep a U.S. phone number through, for example, the Jfax service
(www.j2.com). This service forwards both voicemail and faxes via e-
mail. I also have a free subscription to Efax (www.efax.com), which
I find useful.
Many of these great tips come from Lee Harrison, a correspondent

for International Living (www.InternationalLiving.com).
82
Chapter Eight
Education
It’s a nightmare for many an English-speaking maman to even think
about sending her little ones to school in France. In her book French
Toast, Harriet Welty Rochefort (www.hwelty.com) writes, “American
mothers with children in French schools are much more traumatized by
the whole experience than their kids are.” She sent her boys to French
public schools, from the age of two, and they survived admirably. One
is now in a grande école (a state-supported university for the elites) and
the other is attending a French university. Her witty book is recom-
mended reading for anyone who wants to understand the cultural
nuances of Franco-American family life.
France has a highly regarded system of public preschool, elemen-

tary, and secondary education. There are even some public internation-
al schools such as:
• Lycée Honoré de Balzac, website: http://lyc-balzac.scola.ac-paris.fr.

• Lycée International de St-Germain-en-Laye, website: www.lycee
international.com/frmenu1.htm.
• Les Sections Internationales de Sèvres, website: http://perso.
wanadoo.fr/association.sis.
The public-school system is supplemented by a variety of private

schools: parochial, Montessori (www.montessorienfrance.com/html
/ecoles.htm), national, international, and bilingual schools.
Paris is chock-full of alternative schooling opportunities for

English-speaking expats. In this regard, I enthusiastically recommend
the AAWE Guide to Education, 5th Edition, published by the Association
83
of American Wives of Europeans (www.aaweparis.org). This informative

guide includes a complete listing of English language and bilingual
schools located throughout France, sports and cultural activities, an
explanation of the French educational system, helpful references,
addresses, guidelines, and more. Prices (including postage) are: 18 euro
($22) within France, 20 euro ($25) within Europe, and 22 euro ($27)
in the U.S. To obtain a copy, please send a check, payable to AAWE, to:
AAWE Publications, 31 avenue de New York, 75115 Paris, France; tel.
(331)40-70-11-80; e-mail: aawe@wanadoo.fr.
The ABCs of Motherhood in Paris, a handbook published by the

Message Mother Support Group (www.messageparis.org), which has
chapters on educational activities as well as playgroups and preschools,
may also prove useful. The association also publishes a leaflet, free to
members, listing playgroups and nursery schools in the Paris suburbs.
Preschool through highschool

The French public school system starts with the state-subsidized
crèche (nursery), offered for infants starting at three months of age
whose parents both work full-time. Payment is on a sliding scale
according to income. State-certified caregivers—assistantes maternelles
and assistantes familiales—can provide care in either the minders or the
parents’ home. The maternelle (preschool) is free of charge and accepts
all toddlers starting at the age of three. Most French parents send their
children to these preschools as they have an excellent reputation. Many
Americans are surprised at the large class size of the maternelles; others
are delighted at how well their children behave within the group. The
demand for places in the crèches and maternelles exceeds supply. As
such, many mothers apply for a place in the crèche as soon as they
become pregnant. When your child turns three, you might consider
enrollment at a preschool in your neighborhood. Mandatory education
starts at the age of six.
My friend Samantha, who works full-time, has both of her children

in a crèche. Her second child entered at five months. As Samantha puts
it, “The crèche is so great if you want to go back to work. It provides a
stimulating environment.” She talks about her eldest who, at 14
84
Education
months, learned to get his own shoes. Samantha was impressed. “I start-
ed it suspicious,” she says, having considered crèche schooling in
response to a bad experience with in-home childcare for her eldest.
Now she is a fan. The crèche has been very supportive of her efforts to
continue to breastfeed, even if she is the only mom in the director’s
experience to try to do that! The staff also supports her decision to
speak English to her children. “They realize that being bilingual is a big
plus,” she says. (Her French husband speaks French to the children.)
There are several downsides, she admits, such as getting the kids out of
the house on time and finding babysitters when the kids are sick (a
common occurrence when children are first introduced to a school
environment). She also dislikes that the staff add sugar to the kids’
yogurt, but understands that this is the way many French kids have
their yogurt at home. To complement her kids’ French-speaking educa-
tion, Samantha takes them to Message Paris meetings and seeks out
English-speaking friends.
Patricia, an American living in the 16th, has been researching

where to send her boy for first grade next year. She recommends that
parents start applying a year ahead of time. Patricia started her research
by reading all of the guides she could lay her hands on, including the
AAWE guide, which she found helpful. She also found talking to teach-
ers and parents at her son’s Montessori school to be helpful.
In addition to the guide, as well as advice from other parents and

school staff, Patricia finds it helpful to visit schools. “I always go to the
school and talk to the director. I ask them what [they] do when [they]
discipline a child. With children that are exceptional on either end of
the spectrum?” She believes that many schools try to eliminate students
that don’t pass the baccalauréat (exam leading to a high-school diplo-
ma). Patricia feels that her choice of school for first grade will be impor-
tant because her child will be there at least through collège (middle
school). She concedes that, “The equation is different for each family. It
depends on how long you’re here for [and] if you want to integrate your
kid into French society.”
Upon coming to Paris, Debby enrolled her teenager Alexis at

Ecole Active Bilingue Jeanine Manuel (www.eabjm.com) “without even
85
thinking because a friend had recommended it.” As Debby puts it,

“You hear mixed things about all these schools depending on what
kind of student you have and their age. Alexis disliked her second
year but got into the swing of things the following year, when she
officially switched from a mixed Anglo-French curriculum to the all-
French bac preparation. She additionally elected to specialize in math
and to do the international option, which put her in a small group of
about 20 hyperserious students, which turned out to be the right
thing for her. Other kids had completely different experiences.”
Alexis aced the bac and now Debby reports that “she is thriving at
Brown [University], loving the creative, open-ended nature of the
place while using all her French-acquired skills to push herself aca-
demically.” Her advice to parents: “I wouldn’t hesitate to place a
young child right into the neighborhood school, with only one qual-
ification. Anyone with learning disabilities, mild or otherwise, is bet-
ter off in a private school that cares about such things. French teach-
ers are trained to treat every child the same way. In the U.S.,
American teachers go to the other extreme, but at least they don’t
ridicule kids who, say, excel at art but not science.”
Marcia, an American married to a French man who had two chil-

dren in private high schools says, “I acknowledge the superior educa-
tion in France received by the top percentile, but I abhor the overall
method of teaching.” Her son Eric had rather poor grades in a high
school class that was prepping for the bac. The school feared he might
fail and thus lower its percentage of students who pass, a measure par-
ents use to rank quality. “My husband and I refused that he be sent into
a lower trade school class.” Eric ultimately passed the bac and went on
to a private business school.
Secondary education
At the university level, French schools range from the world-
renowned Grandes Écoles to career-minded private business and other
vocational schools to the very academic public liberal arts university.
The French public university system, while inexpensive, is quite

different from the U.S. system. The former stresses the sciences or lib-
86
Education
eral arts in a no-frills fashion. Forget about the volleyball team, the glee
club, or Greek life. It’s academic, with little concern about an eventual
career or job. It can be overcrowded and lacking in many modern
amenities. French students complain of feeling lost during the first year;
there are no orientation programs. It’s sink or swim. Imagine the diffi-
culties for foreign students!
Harriet Welty Rochefort, whose son is studying philosophy at the

Sorbonne, which is part of the public university system, believes it can
work but depends on the personality of the child. “My thoughts on the
fac (short for faculté) are that if you are very mature and serious, can
work all by your lonesome, and are extremely motivated, it is just fine.
If you have a tendency to slack off, there’s nobody to chide you or get
you back on track.” Her son is doing well, Harriet continues, “partly
because he is so French and partly because it is just what he needs and
likes––and he has some fantastic professors.”
Other English-speaking expats in France, who fondly remember

their college days, would prefer that their children return to the U.S. for
their higher education or enroll at a French private school of secondary
education. Marcia wanted her daughter Nathalie to go to her alma
mater, the bucolic Mt. Holyoke in the U.S. Nathalie, a city person, had
her own ideas. She wanted to work right away. Marcia concedes, “I gave
up my illusions and finally responded to her needs in that respect.” So
Natalie went to IPAG (www.ipag.edu), a four-year school of management
and administration located in the heart of Paris on the boulevard St.
Germain. “It was the best decision for her, contributed to finding her
first job, and prepared her well for the business world. She is earning
an impressive salary for a young person of 25 in a culture which still
suspects youth,” says Marcia.
Marcia believes the French university system to be geared toward

“young people who know what they want and are focused. I can only
talk about the experiences of my children’s friends who lost a year or
two in the university system. Four of them went on to private institu-
tions and are now doing well.” At the public universities, “classes were
huge, professors indifferent and, since there are no entrance exams, the
selection for continuing is made at the end of the first year.”
87
Study-abroad programs
Many students who live outside of France find the idea of spending
a month or more at a French university desirable. The good news is that
France, faced with a dramatic decline in foreign students, is now active-
ly seeking students from around the world. The Paris region also hosts
many MBA programs, including the world-renowned program at
INSEAD (www.insead.fr).
In the absence of a study-abroad program, however, the administra-

tive hurdles are substantial. We advise that you try working through your
college or university, the new French governmental agency EduFrance
(www.edufrance.fr/en), or the U.S. organization Council for International
Education Exchange (www.ciee.org). The CIEE offers educational pro-
grams abroad for students and faculty. For students, the council offers: 1)
Study centers with curricula, service and activities specifically designed
with the American undergraduate in mind, and 2) direct enrollment pro-
grams to a French university. There are a variety of programs for faculty
and administrators. The CIEE also offers work opportunities for students,
recent grads, as well as for young professionals.
If you want to bridge both worlds, consider an American-style school

in France. The American University of Paris (www.aup.fr) is not just for
Americans; it attracts students from around the world to its undergradu-
ate liberal arts program. Similarly, Parson’s School of Design in Paris
(www.fortherunway.com/parsons.html) offers a Bachelor of Fine Arts degree
for full-time students as well as accredited courses for the visiting student.
The British Institute in Paris (www.bip.lon.ac.uk) offers degree programs
and postgraduate degrees in French and English studies.
Advanced certificate studies: Melissa’s solution

Although she had legal residency through her husband, Melissa
was unable to secure the right to work in France. A novelist, she want-
ed to pursue historical research for a book. By pursuing her research as
a student at a French university, she secured the right to work part-time.
First, Melissa obtained student status through the École Pratique
88
Education
des Hautes Études (www.ephe.sorbonne.fr). (She found the school in the

Annuaire de L’Université, which summarizes programs of study at every
university in France and is available at libraries and student career cen-
ters throughout France.) As a student, she was entitled to conduct her
research under a certificat de la capacité à la recherché, a contract renew-
able on a yearly basis. The fees are affordable at less than 140 euro
($170) per year. What a bargain!
Melissa adds, “I looked through the catalog and found the location
of the department I was interested in. I met with a professor specializ-
ing in the area I wanted. Even though my French wasn’t great, my
adviser thought the French Intensive Course at the Sorbonne wasn’t
necessary. I did it anyway.” Once the professor agreed to advise her,
Melissa was required to:
• Meet application deadlines per the professor’s instructions;

• Present transcripts, a list of courses already taken related to her
research subject, and a short essay about her research interests;
• Discuss the research project with her professor;
• Attend courses and successfully complete her adviser’s seminar.
Melissa applied for her student visa at the Centre des Etudiants
Etrangers at 15, rue Miollis in the 15th arrondissement. She was required
to present the following documents: original and photocopy of univer-
sity registration; passport and visa, as well as photocopies of identifica-
tion pages; two black-and-white ID photos; a notarized letter in French
proving that she had enough money to support herself; and a letter in
French declaring that she had a health insurance policy valid in France.
Continuing education
Do take time to learn about French culture once you are here.
Become an expert on some aspect of French life: the wine, the cheese,
the women (or men!). Learning about wine or cheese, for example, is a
great introduction to the geographic diversity of France and the impor-
tance of its regions. Knowing how to talk “food” is a national pastime.
Many Americans, who live here but are ineligible to work, use their time
to develop a new career by taking advantage of the extensive network
89
of English-language educational programs in the city. Some programs

are for academic credit and have tough admission standards. Others are
non-credit courses open to all.
The most popular for-credit programs are in Teaching English as a

Foreign Language or TEFL, as the demand for English teachers here is
very high. TELF training is offered at WICE (www.wice-paris.org), the
British Institute (www.bip.lon.ac.uk), and the American University of
Paris. These are accredited programs for people who already have a
degree. For TEFL teacher training courses in France and worldwide, see
www.wfi.fr/volterre/teachtrain.html.
The American University of Paris offers certificate programs for

degree-holders in computer graphics, international marketing, TEFL,
technical writing, as well as web design and site management. Parson’s
School of Design has a visitors program for college students who want
to spend a semester or two dabbling in accredited courses in studio arts,
fashion, photography, communications and marketing design, as well as
the liberal arts. Both institutions offer non-credit courses as well.
Remember Julia Child? She got her start in teaching America to cook
French-style by taking the year-long grand diplôme course at the Cordon
Bleu (www.cordonbleu.net). (At that time, the school taught only in
French, so she quickly learned the language, too!)
If you just want to take a course here and there, many are offered
through the various English-language clubs and associations. There
are numerous guided visits in and around Paris as well as wine tasting,
cooking courses, and art history lectures. WICE is especially strong in
art history, creative writing and studio arts. At WICE, I learned how to
take a decent photo, paint in acrylics, and write poetry. I also learned
a great deal about French culture through tours to places such as the
French Assembly and the Louvre, as well as through workshops and
classes on wine, cooking, French art, and history offered at the famous
Gobelins tapestry.
Contact your mayor’s office for continuing education programs in

French. The mayor’s office in Paris (www.paris.fr), for example, organizes
hundreds of courses for adults in languages, computers, arts and crafts, pro-
90
Education
fessional development, and the arts. (On the main website, click
“Education” followed by “Cours Municipaux d’Adultes.”) The courses fill
quickly as they are popular and inexpensive. Advance registration is sug-
gested. If your spouse works, check with the workplace comités d’enterprise.
Distance learning
Whether you live in or outside Paris, distance learning or a low-res-
idency program from a university at home may be a desirable option.
Britain’s Open University (www.open.ac.uk/frames.html) is perhaps the
most highly regarded distance-learning institution. Many of these pro-
grams can be completed via the Internet. The British Institute in Paris
offers distance versions of many of its courses.
Volunteer learning
The city’s numerous English-language nonprofit groups and associ-
ations welcome volunteers and interns. In fact, many of them run exclu-
sively on volunteer power. These groups are a great way to transition to
French society and pick up career skills–– and they don’t cost a penny!
I learned desk-top publishing and managerial skills by volunteering at
the educational and nonprofit association WICE as catalog editor, Board
member, director of the Creative Writing Program, and now as co-direc-
tor of the Paris Writers Workshop.
Useful links
• Managing Children’s Education and Development Overseas,
website: www.tckworld.com/expated.html.
Elementary education:
• La Petite Ecole Bilingue (Paris), website: www.russie.net/parte-
naires/école-bilingue.
• Ecole Privé Bilingue Internationale (near Montpellier), website:
www.école-privee-bilingue.fr.
• Montessori En France, website: www.montessorienfrance.com/htmlé-
coles.htm. Montessori schools in Paris and France.
• Worldwide, website: www.worldwide.edu/ci/france/index.html.
91
A database of French schools.

• Greenfield, website: www.greenfield.fr. A database of French schools.
Secondary education:
• Studies Office of the French Embassy in the U.S., www.info-
france-usa.org/culture/education/france/index.html.
• Study Abroad Handbook, www.studyabroad.com/handbook.
• Higher education in France, www.education.gouv.fr/int/etud.htm.
92
Chapter Nine
Health Care and Insurance
France has a mixed health care system which, while publicly run,
has many private elements. As such, there are public and private hospi-
tals; doctors can work for either or both. People with even the most
basic health care insurance may choose their doctors.
Health insurance is part of any employment package. (If you’re

not coming to France as an employee, continue to the next section.)
Your employer in France is responsible for making your application. If
you have a job, your contribution to sécurité sociale (social security) or
the sécu—a cradle-to-grave welfare system that covers much more
than simply health care—comes out of your paycheck. Your employer
makes a contribution as well. If you are a sole proprietor, you sign up
when you form your business and can expect to make substantially
higher contributions. Your health insurance covers you, your spouse
or partner, children up to a certain age, as well as other dependents
living with you. Most doctors are part of the system or agréé. Some
insurance contracts do not reimburse or may only partially reimburse
for services of non-agréé doctors.
Many North American expatriates view the French health system

with a certain amount of distrust. Well, believe it or not, France’s health-
care system was recently rated by the World Health Organization as the
best in the world. The system here is widely considered on par with that
in the U.S. In sharp contrast to the practices of other countries, doctors
and hospitals here treat first, then ask for health insurance. That said,
you may experience a certain lack of bedside manner. American patients
consider themselves customers. French doctors tend to consider them-
93
selves gods. If you can get over the attitude and can explain your mala-
dy in French to a physician, you should do just fine.
Obtaining health insurance
For many expatriates who aren’t part of the French system, the
essential question is how best to obtain health insurance that will be
valid in France? If you’re a short-timer or on the “three-month dip,” first
check with your home country plan to see whether and how it covers
in France. Blue Cross/Blue Shield, for example, is accepted by the
American Hospital of Paris. For short-timers, travel medical insurance
may be the best option. U.S. students will need to arrange for health
insurance coverage in France; the exchange program should be able to
help you with this. If you are on your own, the sécu’s annual premium
is less than $200 for students and covers about 70% of total costs. The
Randolph-Macon College offers excellent advice about obtaining stu-
dent health insurance on its study-abroad website, www.rmc.edu/
directory/academics/studyabroad/healthinsuranceletter.asp.
Long-timers might consider buying into a group plan. To do so,

you’ll need to become a member of an association that offers this bene-
fit. One such association is the Association of Americans Resident
Overseas (AARO) (www.aaro.org), which offers a plan that is very popu-
lar with expats in France and throughout Europe. The plan is adminis-
tered by GMC International of the Henner Group (www.henner.com), and
is based in Paris. GMC offers two plans with various options, with pre-
miums that increase with age and vary according to country. For resi-
dents of France, the per-person annual premium for the most compre-
hensive plan for 30-49 year olds is about 2,060 euro ($2,500). Another
expat plan, the Jefferson Plan, is offered by European Benefits
Administrators (www.europeanbenefits.com). For residents of France
between the ages of 25 and 49, the per-person annual premium for the
most comprehensive plan is about 1,400 euro ($1,700). We have the
Jefferson Plan and are pleased with it; for our family of three, the annu-
al premium is about 3,000 euro ($3,700).
Another option is to buy directly into the French system. This is
94
cost-effective if you have a low or fixed income, or are excluded from

other plans. The cost varies according to income. The charge is 8% of
annual income over 6,600 euro ($8,000). If your annual salary
exceeds 40,000 euro ($49,000), a private plan may be more suitable.
To obtain what is called “voluntary personal insurance,” complete a
demande d’adhésion volontaire (form number 2115) at your local Caisse
Régionale d’Assurance Maladie of the Sécurité Sociale (www.cramif.fr).
In Paris, call 0810-75-33-75 to find the address of the center nearest
you. To fill out the form, you’ll need your income-tax statement
(French or foreign), a valid residency permit, as well as other identify-
ing documents listed on the form.
Health Care in Paris (www.wice-paris.org/news/health_care.html), a

200-page guide essential for all expats living here, has a list of insurers
offering coverage to individuals. The guide is sold through WICE and is
produced by Health Network International. With respect to medical
care for senior citizens, we recommend the guide Vital Issues: How to
Survive Officialdom While Living in France, published by the Association
of American Wives of Europeans (www.aaweparis.org).
Finding doctors
When I first arrived in France, I arrived with a stockpile of allergy

medicines, prepared to resume my desensitization shots as I had suf-
fered from severe allergies in the U.S. Determined to do it the French
way, I visited a neighborhood allergist. Unwilling to accept my U.S. doc-
tor’s diagnosis, this doctor subjected me to numerous tests and, after
several weeks, concluded that I didn’t have allergies (despite my wheez-
ing and sneezing). He did however present me with an indecipherable
prescription for about a dozen pharmaceuticals he believed might help.
I began my search for an English-speaking doctor as I just couldn’t

rapid-fire enough medical French in the 15 minutes French doctors
tend to allot for each patient. I headed to the American Hospital, which,
though staffed largely by French and other international medical pro-
fessionals, conducts business to some degree in English and keeps
abreast of the latest developments in health care and trends in the U.S.
95
Doctors’ fees are markedly higher than at French hospitals, however. My

friends have had some luck finding doctors, with lower fees, at the
Hertford British Hospital. The latest edition of Health Care in Paris (see
above) includes a directory of English-speaking doctors that have been
recommended by the community. There is also a lengthy list of English-
speaking doctors on the U.S. Embassy in Paris website (www.amb-
usa.fr/consul/oas_home.html). My local pharmacist maintains a list of
local doctors as well as their availability and can also treat minor
injuries. Many medications are available without a prescription. You can
find English-speaking doctors at the following institutions:
• American Hospital of Paris, 63, boulevard Victor Hugo, 92200

Neuilly-sur-Seine; tel. (331)46-41-25-25.
• Hertford British Hospital, 3, rue Barbès, 92300 Levallois-Perret; tel.
(331)46-39-22-22.
• Hospital Foch (some English-speaking medical staff), 40, rue
Worth, 92150 Surenes; tel. (331)46-25-20-00.
Dentists
French dentists aren’t reimbursed much by the health care system

for a cleaning, so they tend to do a quick job using an ultrasound tool.
Only qualified dentists are allowed to clean teeth in France and, as such,
dental hygienists don’t exist. If you are fussy about this matter, you may
want to try one of the American-trained dentists in town. Their fees may
be higher however.
Having a baby
The French love babies and prenatal care here is tops. Maternity
and some fertility treatments are covered 100% by most health plans.
You’ll only pay for extras like the private room or the international calls
to grandma and grandpa. Message Mothers Support Group offers prepa-
ration for childbirth training courses in English. The French system
offers courses by midwives that are reimbursed by health insurance. An
indispensable publication in this regard is the 212-page book, the ABCs
of Motherhood in Paris, published by Message (www.messageparis.org).
96
Because the French generally choose to bottle feed, breastfeeding

mothers may experience a lack of support. Even maternity ward nurses
have little experience with breastfeeding. Women are encouraged to
switch to bottle feeding at the least sign of difficulty, which can quickly
put an end to mother’s milk supply. However, there are groups such as
La Leche League (www.lllfrance.org) and Message that can intervene for
you. Message Mother Support Group publishes a free leaflet for its
members of English/French vocabulary for pregnancy, birth and the
postnatal period as well as very useful information on breastfeeding. My
advice to expectant mothers who wish to breastfeed is to start attending
LLL meetings well before the baby is born.
Emergency services
Who says doctors don’t make house calls? They still do in France.
If you need a doctor fast, don’t hesitate to call a service like SOS
Medecins. In the Paris area, the number is (331)47-07-77-77. Another
similar service is Garde de Medical de Paris at (331)42-72-88-88. A
doctor can usually be dispatched within the hour. The American
Hospital has a hotline at (331)47-47-70-15.
For life-threatening emergencies, call a Service d’Aide Médicale

d’Urgence (ambulance). The telephone number is “15” and the dis-
patcher will generally speak English. French hospitals don’t refuse
emergency care for any reason. However, you will most likely have to
pay for services rendered and seek reimbursement later through your
insurance plan.
Prescriptions
French pharmacies are not likely to fill a U.S. prescription. If you

are on a three-month dip, we suggest you carry enough medicine to
cover your stay. If you are here longer, visit a doctor to obtain a pre-
scription. Don’t forget to ask your U.S. doctor for the medicine’s gener-
ic name, as well as its trade name, manufacturer, and dosage.
97
Alternative medicine
Alternative medicine is popular in France and pharmacists often

recommend homeopathic remedies. (However, whether such remedies
should be reimbursable through insurance has come into question by
the sécu.) My husband and I learned an alternative preparation for
childbirth called haptonomie. The idea is that mom and dad learn to
communicate with the baby in-uterus by touching mom’s belly. It real-
ly does work! Later, the haptonomist instructs mom and dad on the best
ways to hold baby so as to soothe and help develop her physical capa-
bilities. Although it wasn’t covered by our insurance, it paid for itself
many times over in a contented, happy baby.
Useful links
• Centre International de Recherche et de Développement de

l’Haptonomie, website: www.haptonomy.org.
• Health Network International, website: www.welcome.to/healthnet-
work-paris. A nonprofit organization, based in Paris, of English-
speaking health professionals and others interested in health issues.
• CANAM, Caisse Nationale d’Assurance Maladie des
Professions Indépendantes, website: www.canam.fr. Information
on French social security for self-employed professionals.
• The French Association of Chiropractic Medicine, website:
www.chiropratique.org. Directory of practitioners in France.
98
Chapter Ten
Money and Finance

It is generally considered impolite to talk about money in France.
Making exact change is always considered the proper thing to do.
People tend to avoid handling cash and many shops have separate lines
for paying and serving.
The euro
On February 17, 2002, France fully changed over to the euro—at

least physically. Those old French franc notes and coins left over from
your last trip to France will no longer be accepted for payment.
However, the anciens francs (old Francs) can be exchanged for euro at the
Banque de France (www.banque-france.fr) until Feb. 17, 2005 for coin
and until Feb. 17, 2012 for paper. The exchange rate is fixed at 6.55957.
The hours for exchanging old Francs are 8:45 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. There
are directions in French, Spanish, and English. There is no fee.
The French still tend to think in terms of the old money, particu-
larly for large purchases such as real estate. You’ll often see two prices
on items––the euro price in large print with the French franc equivalent
noted in smaller print below. The government had recommended that
businesses dispense with double affichage (double pricing) after June
2002, but many have continued the practice.
Exchange rates
One subject most expats don’t seem to understand well is
99
exchange rates. In 2000, the dollar was trading as high as 7.5 francs,
compared with 5.7 francs when we arrived here in 1994. This repre-
sents a 25% difference. As such, when we made our purchases in
Europe and the U.S. with dollars (even though we were paid in
francs), it was like receiving an automatic 25% discount. Now that the
euro is stronger, we try to pay for our purchases in France as well as
the U.S. in euro. Think about which currency you’re to be paid in,
which you’ll save, which you’ll spend as well as how you’ll take your
money with you when you return home.
Banking in France
The real money question for expats is banking. Not so long ago,
when French banks were state-run, the hours of business were less than
customer-friendly and the wait for service was long. With the advent of
privatization, French banks now have longer hours. Some even offer
evening and Saturday business hours. Automatic teller machines are
readily available and some banks offer online service. Still, attitudes
haven’t completely changed.
Do you need checking and savings accounts?
Before you rush to open a bank account, consider whether you

really need one. If you are on the three-month dip, see our recommen-
dations in that chapter about living on your ATM and credit cards.
If you are here for three to five years, a compte courant and compte
sur livret (checking and savings accounts respectively) will suffice.
If you intend to live here permanently, say five years or more,

open the usual checking and savings accounts in conjunction with
other higher-interest savings vehicles, as the French rates on savings
are very poor. If you are a long-term investor, you may prefer
European-based mutual funds or stocks, especially if you are being
paid in euro. I found that converting euro to dollars for investment
purposes wasn’t beneficial. Beware of high loads on European mutual
funds, which currently average at about 5%. Since the stock-market
100
Money and Finance
bubble burst, the French have tended to be wary of stocks, preferring

to invest in bonds and real estate. Several sites offer online stock trad-
ing; the best known is Cortal (www.cortal.fr).
The art of checks
While checks are circumspect in the U.S., they aren’t in France as

the penalties for bouncing a check here are substantial. (Write a bad
check here and banks will consider you a non-person for three years.)
You’ll still need ID, however, in many stores to pay by check. Third-
party checks are not accepted in France. Postdating checks isn’t possi-
ble, as all checks are payable on the date presented.
Check writing is a lesson in French language and culture. You must

write the sum in numbers, then in words. Before writing the date, also
write the place where the check was issued. Your signature, which for
most French people resembles a glorified squiggle, goes in the bottom
right-hand corner. I developed a distinctive sign-off just for use in
France. Learn how to write French dates, sums and digits; it is impor-
tant to cross the number seven, for example. The sum 2,345.78 euro is
written in France as 2.345,78 euro. The date December 25, 2001 is
written 25 Decembre 2001. Cancelled checks aren’t returned, so keep
careful records. Ask your bank if découverts (overdrafts) are possible.
In the back of your checkbook, you’ll find “RIB” slips to be used for
automatic deposits and payments. These relevés d’identité bancaire carry
bank, branch, and account details. Your employer will need one for
direct deposit of your pay. Utilities will ask for one for direct payment
of your bills. To pay your rent, most landlords require that you set up a
virement permanent (monthly automatic transfer) which can be arranged
through your bank.
Carte bleue
Carte Bleue (www.carte-bleue.com), is accepted at all but the small-

est mom-and-pop shops throughout France. During a strike of Brinks,
the money movers, the whole country went short of cash and coin.
101
Shops, both small and large, either asked for exact change or permitted
the use of the Carte Bleue, even for the smallest of purchases. As a gen-
eral rule, a Carte Bleue is only accepted for purchases exceeding 15 euro
($16.20). Aside from an annual fee, there are no other charges for using
the card to pay for purchases or to withdraw cash. The Carte Bleue
works with a PIN for both purchases and withdrawals. Note that your
bank fixes a weekly withdrawal limit to thwart thieves. My husband and
I exceeded our limit at IKEA in Paris and, when our card was refused,
resorted to putting our purchases on our American credit card. To
increase your limit, consult your bank account manager.
Choosing a bank
Opening a bank account in France is akin to a rite of passage.

Usually, you need a chunk of euro and a French address to obtain a
bank account here. Even though we lacked both, we were easily accept-
ed as clients at a branch of the venerable Société Générale (www.soc-
gen.com), primarily because it was located inside the complex at which
my husband worked. We were dissatisfied with customer service and
found the fees to be exorbitant.
My American friend Bettina, who has lived here for several years,
recently walked into her branch of CIC (www.cic-banques.fr) and over-
heard a clerk talking with the manager about whether to accept a new
client. “We don’t accept anyone who doesn’t speak French,” the manag-
er replied. As unfair as this may sound, banks in France, and CIC is no
exception, are under no obligation to accept you as a customer. North
Americans tend to feel as if a bank account is a God-given right. This is
not the case in France and, if you are a foreigner with no French credit
history and no apartment, you can expect to experience difficulty in
acquiring an account.
Dissatisfied with Société Generale, we chose to open an account at

Citibank (www.citibank.fr), where I knew they would at least make an
effort to speak English. As we had U.S. accounts with this multination-
al bank, I assumed they would have some facility for shifting our francs
(this was before the euro) and dollars back and forth between accounts.
102
Money and Finance
Unfortunately, no bank, to my knowledge, yet offers customers the pos-

sibility of shifting multi-currency holdings freely between accounts. If
we want to move our euro in our Paris accounts to our dollar accounts,
we still must request a wire transfer.
As expats, Citibank automatically assigned us an English-speaking

account manager, a practice other banks reserve for the wealthy. Only
years later did we realize that our representative gave us incorrect infor-
mation that cost us money. He said that U.S. citizens couldn’t invest in
SICAVs, a French fund similar to a mutual fund, as Citibank’s were
based in Luxembourg, which is considered an offshore banking center.
He was wrong. U.S. citizens who reside in a foreign country can invest
offshore, but must liquidate these funds once they return permanently
to the U.S. To be fair to our account manager, this law isn’t well under-
stood and he was just reiterating a flawed Citibank policy. Because of
that faulty advice, our francs piled up in low-interest savings account for
years at a poor rate of return. However, Citibank now offers what is
most important to us: a way to cheaply transfer our dollars in our U.S.
Citibank accounts to the euro account in France over the Internet. This
just might make our ordeal worthwhile.
Many of my husband’s friends are satisfied with Barclays (www.bar-

clays.co.uk). U.K. citizens with accounts at British banks such as Lloyds,
tel. (331)44-43-42-41, Abbey National (www.abbey-national.fr); or Midland,
tel. (331)44-42-70-00—may find it most convenient to retain accounts with
their sister branches in France. Also, the French Banque Transatlantique
(www.transat.tm.fr) has served expatriates for several decades.
Opening an account
To open an account, make sure you understand the bank’s require-

ments and then make an appointment with a representative. French
banks will generally require proof of French residence and salary. Three
fiche de paie (pay stubs), or an employment contract or a letter from your
employer specifying your salary should suffice as proof of salary. Proof
of residence documents include rental agreements, electricity, gas or
telephone bills, and income tax receipts. Of course, you’ll need to bring
103
your passport. To open an account at Citibank, for example, you must

have an annual salary of about 46,000 euro ($56,000).
Be careful about bank fees. Like other French banks, Citibank was
going to charge us an annual fee but I pointed out that, as a “global cus-
tomer,” I was already paying fees on the U.S. account and didn’t want
to pay twice. The French fee was eventually waived. We still do pay an
annual fee for the Carte Bleue as there’s no way around that.
Keeping your home accounts
Even if you are a permanent French resident, think twice before

closing your home-country accounts. After six years in France, we still
maintain our U.S. accounts. When the dollar was strong, we use our
U.S. funds to make large purchases here in France. Dollar checks come
in handy for everything from paying the membership to the alumni
association, to reimbursing mom for a purchase. We kept our U.S. cred-
it cards but changed the billing address to our new French address. As
it takes several days for your statement to arrive from the U.S., ensure
that you won’t miss a payment thus incurring late payment fees. To
resolve that situation, you may opt for automatic payment of the bill
from your U.S. checking account, a service that many cards offer. U.S.
credit cards are useful for buying American products on the Internet—
especially gifts for family members still living in the U.S. Keep in mind
that some U.S. sites can’t accept credit-card orders with a foreign billing
address. Others will accept a foreign billing address, but not a foreign
shipping address as they don’t want to deal with calculating overseas
postage and duties.
French savings products
A few years ago, we finally looked into investments and took the
plunge. We found a private financial adviser, Samina Arnoult, e-mail
samina.arnoult@wanadoo.fr, who has many expatriate clients and under-
stands our special needs. Per Samina’s advice, we set up a life-insurance
policy, which is invested in mutual funds.
104
Money and Finance
Apart from mutual funds, French institutions offer many shorter-

term, no-risk and, in some cases, tax-free investments. Samina was kind
enough to compile the list, which follows. These shorter-term invest-
ments are sufficient if you stay in France two or three years. Except for
the Livret A and CODEVI, which are tax-free, all of the others have tax
implications. Be sure to inquire about them.
• Compte Sur Livret: 2% interest. As for the taxes, opt for withholding
25% of your interest. The top rate is 54%. This is the most com-
mon type of savings account.
• Livret A: Offered only through a Caisse d’Epargne, Credit Mutuel, or
La Poste. This popular tax-free account, with a maximum of 15,300
euro ($18,600), pays 2.25% interest.
• Codevi: maximum 4,600 euro ($5,600); 2.25% net annual return.
Two accounts are allowed per household: one in the name of the
taxpayer, one in the name of the partner.
• Compte Epargne Logement (CEL): Pays up to 3% on a deposit up to
15,300 euro ($18,600) and allows the holder to borrow against it
at 3.5% to finance real estate.
• Plan Epargne Logement (PEL): a four-year account paying 3.5% on a
deposit up to 61,200 euro ($74,500). This popular account allows
the holder to borrow against it at 4.97% to finance real estate.
• Sicav Monetaires: cash funds taxable at 26% when sold.
• Compte A Terme: fixed-rate term accounts with a 25% prélevement
liberatoire (obligatory withholding). Most large banks offer them in
several currencies. Consider this option if you want to bring money
to France without converting it into French francs.
Choosing an investment adviser
Your bank’s chargé de clientèle or conseiller will do for most basic

bank transactions. If you need a trained investment professional, ask for
a conseil en gestion de patrimoine, at bigger banks. At Citibank, our
account manager handles both our bank and stock accounts.
For long-term investments, consider établissements financiers (major

financial companies), which have a wide range of investment products.
105
Talk with brokers (sociétés de bourse) as well as insurance companies. You

may also want to use the services of an independent financial adviser, as
we did. Advisers in France, while often well versed in a given sector, such
as bonds, are increasingly becoming generalists who select the best over-
all products for their customers. Anyone can call oneself a financial advis-
er in France. Ask whether your adviser is certified before committing.
Buying a French home?
Buying an apartment or house in France is a book in itself and, as

it turns out, my publisher has already done an excellent job in that area.
I heartily recommend their print book France: The Owners Manual,
available for purchase through the International Living bookstore at
(http://shopping.InternationalLiving.com/il). The administrative hurdles
are detailed in the excellent book Vital Issues: How to Survive Officialdom
While Living in France, published by the Association of American Wives
of Europeans (www.aaweparis.org). The book also fields money-related
questions involving marriage and divorce, retiring and senior care, as
well as wills and inheritance.
Securing a mortgage as an expat can be difficult. My American

friend Suzanne, who lives in France but works for a company based in
the U.S., experienced a great deal of frustration with the process. “I just
didn’t know who to talk to,” she says. Actually, she approached all the
logical suspects: her French bank as well as her U.S. attorney, account-
ant and bank. Her French bank refused her because her salary is
deposited directly into her U.S. bank account. Her U.S. bank didn’t
want to deal with French property since it had no way of repossess-
ing it in case of default. Suzanne thought about a business loan as well
as a personal loan from her sister, who was going to second-mortgage
her own home to make the loan possible, until a business associate
suggested she approach the British banks. She applied at Abbey
National and BPI (formerly Woolwich), the latter of which gave her a
loan. “The French are very conservative about lending money,”
Suzanne says. “The British are finance people. They didn’t care
whether I had a salary in France or not.”
106
Money and Finance
Things are changing, though, and the French banks are jumping on
the bandwagon with the onslaught of foreign customers. As a result,
loans are becoming easier to acquire. For information on buying a home
in France contact our real estate expert Jocelyn Carnegie at parisproper-
ty@InternationalLiving.com.
Useful links
• Owning a Piece of Paris, by Adrian Leeds, an article you can find on

the website www.westernwebworks.net/pieceofparis.html.
• French Property Insider: www.frenchpropertyinsider.com/mortgage.html
• La Chambres de Notaires de Paris (Paris Notary Publics), website
www.paris.notaires.fr.
Taxes
The U.S. is the only major country that taxes its citizens’ income
when they reside abroad. Even though all U.S. citizens, regardless of
where they live, must file U.S. tax returns, they are also required to file
with the French authorities when they reside here. U.S. expats, how-
ever, do get a couple of breaks: 1. They can file for automatic three-
month extensions of the filing deadline and 2. They automatically
receive a foreign earned income exclusion, which means that a set
amount of income (which changes yearly) earned abroad is exempt
from U.S. taxes. For details, search the IRS website (www.irs.gov) under
“foreign earned income exclusion.” U.S. expat associations like AARO
are fighting for a higher exclusion, but have met with substantial
resistance in Washington where expats are seen as tax cheats. Needless
to say, U.S. citizens who are legal residents of France also must file a
French income tax déclaration.
Because expat returns can be extremely complicated, we had a law

and tax practice in Paris, Samuel Okoshken & Associates, help us with
our U.S. and French taxes for the first year. For example, you’ll need to
make a determination as to whether you are a “bona fide resident” or
whether you should use the “physical presence test,” based on a calcu-
lation of the days you actually stayed in your home, host, and other
107
countries. Save those boarding passes and mark trips in your diary! If
you want to do your own taxes, AARO and other English-speaking
organizations in Paris host classes and lectures around tax time. AARO
publishes a helpful booklet, Basic Principles of Income Taxation, which is
free to members. The Internal Revenue Service at the U.S. Embassy in
Paris (www.amb-usa.fr/irs/irs.htm) has a great Internet site. Tax forms are
available at the U.S. Consulate and online. Banque Transatlantique also
offers a tax service for its clients.
Insurance
Insurance is a legal requirement for all homeowners, renters and

car owners residing in France. The industry is being gobbled up by large
insurers such as AXA (www.axa.fr/index.asp), but there are also mutuelles
(mutual insurance companies) and independent insurance agents.
Home and rent insurance is fairly standardized. It is more important to
shop around for auto insurance, which is expensive in France.
Premiums depend on a number of factors including your driving record
and the city in which you live. Advantage Insurance Associates, 57
rue du Faubourg Montmartre, 75009; tel. (331)53-20-03-33; is an inde-
pendent agency that offers health, car, and household insurance espe-
cially for American expatriates. Upon signing our rental contract, my
husband and I were informed that we needed rental insurance immedi-
ately. The rental agent referred us to an independent insurer, two doors
down. This agent saw us immediately without an appointment and
drew up a standard contract. While it seemed like an incestuous busi-
ness relationship, it certainly was convenient and no more costly for us.
108
Chapter Eleven
English-Speaking Organizations
As you’ll see below, there are scores of English-speaking organiza-
tions in France. They have been established by people who saw a need
in the community and did something about it. Take advantage of all the
resources these groups offer. Why reinvent the wheel?
We’ve organized these groups under their main centers of interest.

Be advised, however, that some groups offer so many activities and serv-
ices that they are difficult to categorize. This list is by no means exhaus-
tive, but mentions some of the most important expat organizations.
Most of these groups operate as nonprofit associations under French

law and, as such, operate under strict rules. Because their ability to raise
funds is limited, you can expect to be asked to join as a member as well as
a volunteer. Only members can take advantage of their services. While this
is all quite normal, the membership fees do add up. I finally shelled out for
a membership to the American Library after I bought a hardcover English-
language book for 38 euro ($46). That was half a year’s membership at the
library! Now I consider membership there a bargain.
For a complete listing of British organizations in Paris, see the

British Community Committee’s website (www.britishinfrance.com). A
print listing can be obtained from the British consulate in Paris at 18 bis,
rue d’Anjou, 75008; tel. (331)44-51-31-00. Australians will find a helpful
list of Aussie associations and businesses in France, published by the
Australian Embassy in Paris, at www.austgov.fr/index_en.html (click on
service culturel then adresses australiennes en France).
109
Alumni groups
• Berkeley Club France, 9 avenue Franklin D. Roosevelt, 75008 Paris;

tel. (331)46-07-00-43. The French Alumni Association of the
University of California at Berkeley.
• Boston University Alumni Association of France, 91, avenue
Gambetta, 75020 Paris; tel. (331)44-62-20-53. The Boston University
Alumni Association of France.
• Harvard Business School Club of France, c/o France-Amérique, 9-
11, avenue Franklin D. Roosevelt, 75008 Paris; tel. (331)42-56-20-98.
Holds monthly luncheon meetings.
• Harvard Club of France, c/o France-Amérique, 9-11, avenue
Franklin D. Roosevelt, 75008 Paris; tel. (331)60-72-43-78. Monthly
events with speakers or debates; cultural events.
• Notre Dame Alumni Club of France, (Megan Maloney), tel.
(331)47-57-58-67; e-mail: megan.maloney@duckereurope.com; website
http://alumni.nd.edu/~ndc_ifra. Organizes a variety of social func-
tions and helps current students studying in France.
• Paris Alumni Network, (Margaret Brautigam), 20, passage des Petites
Ecuries, 75010 Paris; tel. (331)45-23-00-75. For graduates of American
universities; holds social, cultural, and educational activities. Has
information on various alumni contacts and clubs in Paris.
• Princeton Alumni Association of France, (Pamela Wesson), 6, rue
des Bauches, 75016 Paris, tel. (331)45-27-30-44; website: http://alum-
ni.princeton.edu/~paa661. Organizes events and social functions;
interviews prospective applicants.
• Stanford Club of France, (Yves Codet), 3 rue Gabriel Fauré, 78370
Plaisir; website: www.stanford-fr.org.
• Wellesley Club of France, (Nadia Lacoste), 12 rue Mesnil, 75116
Paris; tel. (331)45-53-00-42; e-mail: sjkatw@aya.yale.edu. This alum-
nae club organizes various activities.
• Yale Club of Paris, (Chip Seward), 16 rue du Vieille du Temple,
75004 Paris, tel. (331)48-04-51-75; e-mail: chipseward@hotmail.com;
website www.yalefrance.org.
110
Charitable groups
• American Aid Society c/o United States Embassy, 2, rue Saint

Florentin, 75001 Paris; tel. (331)43-12-48-07. This nonprofit organi-
zation, which operates out of the U.S. Embassy, aids elderly, dis-
abled or sick Americans in France.
• English Language Library for the Blind, 35, rue Lemercier, 75017
Paris, tel. (331)42-93-47-57; website: http://ellb.free.fr. Provides audio
books to English-speaking, visually impaired people living outside
Anglophone countries; volunteers and contributions always needed.
• Foch Foundation at Hospital Foch, Pavillon Balsan, 40 rue Worth,
92151 Suresnes; tel. (331)45-06-29-24. Provides financial and logistic
support to underprivileged people in need of hospitalization.
• Junior Service League of Paris, 34 avenue de New York, 75116 Paris;
tel. (331)53-23-84-00. Provides financial assistance to families.
• Lions Club International, 295 rue St. Jacques, 75005 Paris; tel. (331)46-
34-14-10. A community service and humanitarian organization.
Cultural and political groups
• American Club of Paris, 34 avenue de New York, 75116 Paris; tel.

(331)47-23-64-36; website: www.americanclubparis.org. A prestigious
organization dealing in Franco-American relations.
• Les Arts George V at the American Cathedral, website:
www.us.net/amcathedral-paris/html/index2.html. Plans, develops, and
administers the non-liturgical music and other performance pro-
grams of the Cathedral.
• British Council, 9/11 rue de Constantine, 75007 Paris; tel. (331)49-
55-73-00. The official U.K. organization for promoting British cul-
ture in France; offers courses in English as well as a lending library.
• Democrats Abroad France, 5 rue Bargue, 75015 Paris, tel. (331)45-
66-49-05; website: www.democratsabroad.org. Represents the
Democratic Party in France; has an active Women’s Caucus and
Minority Caucus.
111
• Les Explorateurs de Vins, 44 rue Emile Lepeu, 75011 Paris; tel.

(331)43-73-72-33; website: www.explorateurs-de-vins.com. Offers
wine tasting courses, workshops, and organized wine tastings.
• France-Amérique, 9-11, avenue Franklin D. Roosevelt, 75008 Paris;
tel. (331)43-59-51-00. This prestigious club and restaurant aims to
foster better Franco-American relations.
• France-Etats-Unis, 6 boulevard de Grenelle, 75015 Paris; tel. (331)45-
77-48-84. A French-American friendship organization with chap-
ters throughout France; publishes a quarterly newsletter.
• The International Association of American Minorities, 3, route de
Chaufour, 78270 Cravent; tel. (331)34-76-18-75. Studies matters per-
taining to American minorities living in France; highlights minority
achievements and fosters interracial and interethnic communications.
• The Mona Bismarck Foundation, 34 avenue de New York, 75116
Paris; tel. (331)47-23-38-88. Encourages and promotes international
artistic, scientific, and educational activities, particularly those which
further Franco-American friendship; holds exhibitions. The founda-
tion is housed in the magnificent Paris townhouse of the late
Countess Bismarck, which is home to many nonprofit organizations.
• Paris Choral Society, (Chris Bell), Paris, tel. (331)40-50-05-21; web-
site: www.us.net/amcathedralparis/html/chapters/arts/chorsoc.html.
Performs large-scale works at the American Cathedral. Open to all.
• The Paris Garden Guild, (Robin Watson, Director), 19 Chemin des
Vignes, 92380 Garches, tel. (331)47-41-21-59; e-mail: parisgarden@free.fr.
• Republicans Abroad France, (Robert Pingeon), 21 rue Monsieur,
75007 Paris; tel. (331)43-06-10-27; e-mail: rpingeon@aol.com.
Health and educational groups
• American Library of Paris, 10 rue du General Camou, 75007 Paris;

tel. (331)53-59-12-60; website: www.americanlibraryinparis.org. This
nonprofit organization has a collection of more than 90,000 works.
• Fondation des Etats-Unis, 15, boulevard Jourdan, 75690 Paris Cedex
14; tel. (331)53-80-68-80; website: www-ciup-fr/citeaz/maisons/usa.
Located at Cité Universitaire, provides lodging and cultural facilities
to American graduate students, professors, and researchers.
112
• Franco-American Commission for Educational Exchange

(Fulbright Program), 9 rue Chardin, 75016 Paris; tel. (331)44-14-53-
60; website: www.fulbright-france.org. Administers Franco-U.S. educa-
tional exchanges and the Fulbright Program; provides counseling and
documentation concerning French and American universities.
• Franco-American Volunteer Association for the Mentally
Retarded (FAVA), 24 rue Alsace Lorraine, 75019 Paris; tel. (331)42-
45-17-91. Aims to further Franco-American collaboration in the
field of mental retardation; holds the annual Special Olympic
Games for the mentally retarded.
• Health Network International, 23 boulevard Richard Wallace, 92200
Neuilly-Sur-Seine, tel. (331)47-45-21-06; website:www.welcome.to
/healthnetwork-paris. Provides continuing education for health pro-
fessionals, community education, networking opportunities, and
community service activities. Sponsors an annual community health
fair and publishes a guide to health care in Paris with WICE.
• Columbia University in Paris, 4 rue de Chevreuse, 75006 Paris; tel.
(331)43-20-33-07; website: www.ce.columbia.edu/paris/intro.cfm. Reid
Hall, a division of Columbia University, offers classroom and office
space to members. Many overseas undergraduate and graduate
programs are based here.
• WICE, 20, boulevard du Montparnasse, 75015 Paris, tel. (331)45-66-
75-50; website: www.wice-paris.org. This association, run by volun-
teers, offers hundreds of educational programs in English.
Social and support groups
• Alcoholics Anonymous (AA), website: www.aaparis.org. Based at

American Church of Paris. See listing.
• American Women’s Group in Paris (AWG), 32 rue General
Bertrand, 75007 Paris; tel. (331)42-73-36-74; website:
www.awgparis.org.
• Association of Americans Resident Overseas (AARO), 34 avenue
de New York, 75116 Paris, tel. (331)47-20-24-15; website: aaro-
intl.org. Protects basic rights, such as voting, citizenship, taxation,
health care, and business competitiveness, of overseas Americans.
113
• Association of American Wives of Europeans (AAWE), 34 avenue

de New York, 75116 Paris; tel. (331)40-70-11-80; website: www.
aaweparis.org. Promotes Franco-American cultural understanding,
protects the U.S. citizenship of members and promotes American cul-
ture. Publishes guides to education and living in France.
• Canadian Women’s Group c/o Canadian Cultural Center, 5 rue
Constantine, 75007 Paris; tel. (331)45-51-35-73; website www.dfait
-maeci.gc.ca/paris/canadafrance/femmes-e.asp.
• FACTS, 190 boulevard de Charonne, 75020 Paris; tel. (331)44-93-16-
32. Provides AIDS counseling, treatment information, support, and
education to Americans and English-speaking people of all nation-
alities in Paris; runs a telephone help line.
• International Counseling Service at the American Church; tel.
(331)45-50-16-49. A professional, bilingual counseling practice.
• La Leche League France, B.P. 18, 78620 L’Etang La Ville, tel.
(331)39-58-45-84; website: www.lllfrance.org. Helps breastfeeding
mothers; operates an English-speaking group as well as several
French groups in the Paris area.
• Message Mother Support Group, e-mail: info@messageparis.org;
website: www.messageparis.org. An English-speaking mother’s organ-
ization with more than 900 members; offers activities, information
and support.
• Sisters: An Association of African-American Women in France, 23
rue Lecourbe No. 161, 75015 Paris; tel. (331)42-21-00-73. A group of
diversified African-American Women who organize various activities.
Religious institutions
• Adath Shalom, 8, rue George Bernard Shaw, 75015 Paris, tel. (331)45-
67-89-79; website: www.adathshalom.org. A Masorti (conservative)
Jewish community in Paris.
• American Cathedral, 23 avenue George-V, 75008 Paris, tel. (331)53-
23-84-00; website: www.us.net/amcathedral-paris. An Anglican
church with English, French, and Chinese services; hosts a number
of activities, clubs, and nonprofit organizations.
• American Church, 65 quai d’Orsay, 75007 Paris; tel. (331)40-62-05-
00; website: www.acparis.org. This interdenominational church
114
houses the Franco-American Community Center, which hosts

many sports and social clubs as well as 12-step groups, preschools,
and theater groups.
•St. Joseph’s Church, 50 avenue Hoche, 8th Paris; tel. (331)42-27-28-
56; website: www.stjoeparis.org/index.html. A Roman Catholic Church
for the English-speaking expatriate community.
Business groups
• American Chamber of Commerce in France, 156 boulevard

Haussmann, 75008 Paris, tel. (331)56-43-45-67; website: www.
amchamfrance.org. Represents U.S. business interests in France.
• Paris Professional Women’s Network, PWN Secretariat, 126, rue
des Canotiers, 78670 Villennes-sur-Seine; website: www.ParisPWN.net.
Sponsors “networking lunches” which generally feature a talk by
executive women as well as career workshops.
• PSA France, website: www.professionalspeakers.org. A chapter of
the Professional Speakers Association Europe; offers workshops
and seminars.
• The Travellers, 25 avenue des Champs-Elysées, 75008 Paris; tel. (331)43-
59-75-00. This men’s club, patterned on the British model, provides
lodging, restaurant, and bar service. Most of the members are English-
speaking professionals, primarily British and American businessmen.
Veterans groups
• American Legion Paris Post 1, 22-24 boulevard Diderot, 75012

Paris; tel. (331)44-74-73-42. This veteran’s organization was found-
ed in 1919; has a Ladies’ Auxiliary.
• American Overseas Memorial Day Association, 34 avenue de New
York, 75116 Paris; tel. (331)42-61-55-77. Organizes ceremonies on
Memorial Day at U.S. military cemeteries in Europe.
• Comité La Fayette, 177 rue de Lourmel, 75015 Paris; tel. (331)45-
58-34-19. Develops Franco-American exchanges; honors La Fayette
each year with a parade.
115
• Daughters of the American Revolution/Children of the

American Revolution, (Mrs. Alain Maitrot), 118, avenue Felix-
Faure, 75015 Paris; tel. (331)45-54-64-19. Participates in various
American ceremonies on July 4, Memorial Day, and Thanksgiving.
• Fondation du Memorial de l’Escadrille Lafayette, 34 avenue de
New York, 75116 Paris; tel. (331)42-61-55-77. Maintains a monu-
ment in St. Cloud Park, organizes ceremonies, and educates French
and American youth about their history.
• La Société des Quarante Hommes et Huit Chevaux (Forty and
Eight), 34 avenue de New York Paris, 75016 Paris; tel. (331)47-72-08-
03. Conducts Memorial Day ceremonies as well as memorial serv-
ices for deceased veterans.
• Society of the Cincinnati, 2 bis rue Rabelais, 75008 Paris; tel.
(331)45-61-45-40. The French branch of this military order, dedi-
cated to Franco-American friendship, holds an annual ceremony to
celebrate the victory of Yorktown in 1781; organizes Franco-
American exchanges.
• Sons of the American Revolution, 20 rue Bosquet, 75007 Paris; tel.
(331)40-62-97-19. Members, descendants of participants in the
American Revolution, participate in various American ceremonies
on July 4 and Memorial Day.
• United Service Organizations (USO), 20, rue de la Trémoille, 75008
Paris, tel. (331)40-70-99-68; website: www.usoparis.org. Assists visit-
ing American military personnel and their families.
• Veterans of Foreign Wars of the U.S., Poste No. 605, 7 rue Agar,
75016 Paris; tel. (331)42-88-85-15. Conducts monthly meetings and
Memorial Day services.
Groups outside Paris
• American Club of Lille, 19 avenue du Professeur Paul Langevin,

59260 Lezennes; tel. (333)28-76-40-00; e-mail: rlediable@aol.com.
• American Club of Lyon, B.P. 2060, 69226 Lyon Cedex 02; tel.
(336)67-43-20-81; website: www.fawco.org/fawcoweb/clubs/lyon.html. A
social group with various activities.
• Americans in Alsace, B.P. 169, 67004 Strasbourg Cedex; website:
www.fawco.org/fawcoweb/clubs/alsace.html.
116
• American Women’s Group of Languedoc Roussillon, 11 rue Saint

Louis, 34000 Montpellier; tel. (334)67-58-13-44; website: www.awglr.org.
• Bordeaux - Los Angeles Association, 38, allée d’Orléans, 33000
Bordeaux; tel. (335)56-51-37-61; website: www.bordeaux-los
angeles.asso.fr.
• The California Club, 304 rue Garibaldi, 69007, Lyon;
tel. (334)72-71-75-75
• Franco-American Institute, 7 quai Chateaubriand, BP 2599, 35059
Rennes; tel. (332)99-79-20-57; website: www.ifa-rennes.org. This U.S.
government-sponsored center to promote American culture also
advises Americans about business and cultural life in the region.
117
118
About the Author
Rose Marie Burke grew up in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. While in
high school, she put aside money from her part-time job at a bakery to
go on a class trip to Paris in 1977. That’s when she first fell in love with
France and all things foreign.
Upon entering Purdue University, however, she bombed a French

placement test, decided to study German, as well as journalism, and
eventually chose to study for a year in Hamburg. Rose continued her
interests in journalism and German culture at the Graduate School of
Public and International Affairs at the University of Pittsburgh. After
obtaining her master’s degree, she worked as an analyst in a consulting
firm in Washington, D.C. and as copy editor for both the Dow Jones
Newswires and the overseas editions of the Wall Street Journal.
When her husband John acquired a job in Paris in 1994, Rose’s

dream of living in France became a reality. Since that time, Rose has
been freelancing with such national periodicals as Business Week, the
Washington Post, the national and international editions of The Wall
Street Journal, and USA Today, as well as specialized publications such as
Paris Notes, World Gas Intelligence, Time Out, Green Card, and the Paris
Free Voice. (Freelancing wasn’t such a big career change for Rose as her
writing career had started at the age of 13 when she was published in
American Girl magazine.)
Rose co-created AngloFiles, a site for Anglophones (English-speak-

ing people) in Paris, in 1996 with partner Stephanie Kidder. Rose devel-
oped this guide as a result of the popular response to the site. An avid
bicyclist, Rose also wrote the Insider Guide to Biking in Paris due to
119
numerous questions she’s asked daily on the topic. Since the birth of her
daughter Emma in 2000, Rose is looking forward to the day when baby
and mom can ride tandem.
Rose has so enjoyed taking courses in creative writing at WICE that

she recently accepted a volunteer position there as director of the annu-
al Paris Writers Workshop.
Comments from Guide Users

Patrick Taccard:
“The guide by Rose Burke is very helpful and interesting. I found
more information here than [in]all others combined. The consulates and
town halls and prefectures are not there to help you and especially to give
info. I have been through it already. Their rules are subjective and if you
have all that is needed or not depends on what mood they are in. I
watched others as I waited and saw that getting pushy doesn’t work
unless you are a cute little French girl like Aude. I dress like a proper
young Frenchman and pour on the charm. I have found that works a lot
and the fact that Aude fell apart one time really helped. I think I have all
my papers in order. Reading one of your true stories, I saw that I could
have gotten a visa just for marriage. I asked at the consulate in Los
Angeles about the special considerations or paperwork for people to be
married to French nationals and was told there were none. Anyway, I
finally got a response from the consulate in [Washington] D.C. and it
confirms what your story said. I don’t have to return to get a long-stay
visa. I apply with my marriage license at the prefecture for my carte de
séjour within three months after the marriage and I can stay. Whew!”
Christine Anthony:
“I have purchased the Working & Living in France [guide] and have read
through most of it. The information is great, clear, concise, and current.”
Jerry Stopher:
“Working and Living in France got here quickly, and I have read it.
Very good, well-written, and informative. It confirmed what I already
believed: going over yonder and working there, staying legally with
120
proper papers, is tricky, even potentially quite difficult–– but not impos-
sible. …With the how-to information I now have, it [will] be way less
daunting than going at it cold and unprepared.”
Elaine Hutchison:
“I always had a copy of your book with me for job interviews, so I
could show them the required salary for a cadre supérieur. I remembered
a compliment on your book from a Parisian banker. Taking your book’s
advice to heart, I asked my Parisian friend Flo if I could meet her
banker, as I was planning to move my retirement fund to France.
During our meeting, I explained that I was already familiar with the
‘financial’ products available to foreigners. After producing your book
from my briefcase, he said, with a strong note of surprise in his voice,
‘This was written by an American?’ With a note of admiration in his
voice he said, ‘This is very accurate and up-to-date.’ I am very lucky to
have a work contract, very lucky to have my cool history and music
friends in Paris, and very lucky to have stumbled across your book,
because it made what I needed to know so very clear.”
121

Work Live France

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Description:

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Work Live France

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

International Living’s Guide to

Working and Living

and prepared by the staff

Published by Agora Ireland Publishing & Services Ltd.

Copyright © 2004 by Agora Ireland Publishing &

Written by: Rose Burke

Cover photography courtesy of Photodisc.com

Printed by Victor Graphics

Working and Living

Chapter One: Adjusting to France ..................................................11

Chapter Two: The Three-Month Dip ............................................19

Chapter Three: Learning the Lingo ................................................27

Chapter Four: Residency and Work Permits ........................31

Chapter Five: Job Hunting in France ............................................47

Chapter Six: Creating a Business ....................................................59

Chapter Eight: Education ........................................................................83

Chapter Nine: Health Care and Insurance ..............................93

Chapter Ten: Money and Finance ....................................................99

Chapter Eleven: English-Speaking Organizations 109

About the author..........................................................................................119

I wrote this guide from my personal experience, my work as a jour-

While I cannot be responsible for mistakes on referenced web

A good starting point for specific information regarding your per-

specializing in French immigration in your home country. If you are in

This guide has a U.S. focus but tries to be as inclusive as possible.

A word about telephone numbers and prices

Prices throughout the guide are quoted in euro. At time of writing,

Do I have to learn French?

running at reasonable prices.

closet full of interesting clothes, and a quintessentially French inability

“I should quickly add that living abroad has brought us together as

“One day a vice president of my company told me he had heard I

told them, because I wanted to tell someone. I began to learn their

“Gradually I realized that these French people were my family, and

I had three months’ notice before my move to Paris. With vague

may purchase the book at most newsstands in France or through an

A colleague clued me in about FUSAC (www.fusac.fr), a magazine

I have been lucky to learn about the French culture through my

Meeting French people

Some people promise to ignore all English speakers and only

Help for the culture-shocked

Irish Eyes magazine, website: www.irisheyes.fr/index.html. Published

U.S. Department of State, website: www.state.gov/r/pa/ei/bgn

Cultural Services Office of the French Embassy in the U.S.,

American Citizens Abroad: website: www.aca.ch. A nonprofit asso-

Military Woman: website: www.militarywoman.org. For women in

Many people move to France cold turkey. Some manage to find

Truth in advertising, this guidebook can only go so far. Each per-

basis. The exception often seems to disprove the rule.

Mable’s three-month dip

“I was interested in seeing what it would be like to live in Paris…

When is the best time to come?

What three months? You may be tempted to visit France in the

here. Paris, especially, becomes devoid of Parisians, and fills with

We recommend that you plan your visit either from mid-September

A new one-day version of the program especially for working peo-

By way of illustration, here’s the school calendar for 2004 to 2005

Logistics for the dip

• Renting a furnished apartment, utilities included (see the Chapter

Regarding mobile telephone service, there are two main operators:

If your accommodation doesn’t offer Internet access, consider going

underlying telephone service is charged by the minute. You may get