DOE/GO-102001-1113

FS143
June 2001

Air-Source
Heat Pumps
There are two common types of heat
pumps: air-source heat pumps and geot-
hermal heat pumps (GHPs). Either one
can keep your home warm in the winter
and cool in the summer. An air-source
heat pump pulls its heat indoors from the
outdoor air in the winter and from the
indoor air in the summer. A GHP extracts
heat from the indoor air when it's hot out-
side, but when it's cold outside, it draws
heat into a home from the ground, which
maintains a nearly constant temperature
of 50˚ to 60˚F. This fact sheet focuses on
air-source heat pumps, which comprise
the majority of all residential heat pump
applications.
An air-source heat pump can provide effi-
cient heating and cooling for your home,
especially if you live in a warm climate.
When properly installed, an air-source
heat pump can deliver one-and-a-half to
three times more heat energy to a home
compared to the electrical energy it con-
sumes. This is possible because a heat
pump moves heat rather than converting
it from a fuel, like in combustion heating
systems.
How They Work
You might be wondering how an air-
source heat pump uses the outdoor winter
air to heat a home. Believe it or not: heat
can be harvested from cold outdoor air

Sara Farrar, NREL/PIX05420

This home in Austin, Texas, features an air-source heat pump.

This document was produced for the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) by the National Renewable Energy Laboratory (NREL), a DOE national laboratory. The
document was produced by the Information and Outreach Program at NREL for the DOE Office of Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy. The Energy Efficiency
and Renewable Energy Clearinghouse (EREC) is operated by NCI Information Systems, Inc., for NREL / DOE. The statements contained herein are based on
information known to EREC and NREL at the time of printing. No recommendation or endorsement of any product or service is implied if mentioned by EREC.

Printed with a renewable-source ink on paper containing at least 50% wastepaper, including 20% postconsumer waste
 down to about 40°F. And this can
be accomplished through a process
you're probably already familiar
with—refrigeration.
Basically, a heat pump's refrigeration sys-
tem consists of a compressor, and two
coils made of copper tubing, which are
surrounded by aluminum fins to aid heat
transfer. The coils look much like the radi-
ator in your car. Like in a refrigerator or
air-conditioner, refrigerant flows continu-
You can use a ously through pipes, back and forth from
the outdoor coils. In the heating mode, liq-
central heat pump to uid refrigerant extracts heat from the out-
side coils and air, and moves it inside as it
heat and cool a whole evaporates into a gas. The indoor coils
transfer heat from the refrigerant as it con-
house. denses back into a liquid (see Fig. 1
below). A reversing valve, near the com-
pressor, can change the direction of the
refrigerant flow for cooling as well as for
defrosting the outdoor coils in winter (see
Fig. 2 on page 3).
When outdoor temperatures fall below
40°F, a less-efficient panel of electric resis-
tance coils, similar to those in your toaster,
kicks in to provide indoor heating. This is
why air-source heat pumps aren't always
very efficient for heating in areas with
cold winters. Fuel-burning furnaces gener-
ally can provide a more economical way
to heat homes in cooler U.S. climates.
Compressor
Liquid
evaporates
into gas
Expansion
Valve
Outdoor
Coils
Fig. 1 A split-system heat pump heating cycle
2
Types of Air-Source Heat Pumps
You can use a central heat pump to heat
and cool a whole house. Most central heat
pumps are split-systems—that is, they
each have one coil indoors and one out-
doors (see Fig. 1 below). Supply and
return ducts connect to a central fan,
which is located indoors. The fan, often
called an air handler or blower, circulates
air throughout the house. The fan also
usually contains electric resistance coils
(some units now have a gas-fired furnace
option). The heated or cooled air circulates
from the fan to the supply ducts, and open-
ings in the home called supply registers.
Return registers and ductwork return the
air to the fan to be heated.
Some heat pumps are packaged systems.
These usually have both coils and the fan
outdoors. Heated or cooled air is delivered
to the interior from ductwork that
protrudes through a wall or roof.
Another packaged system is the ductless
room heat pump. These pumps will effi-
ciently heat or cool a room or small house
with an open floor plan. They are much
more common for apartments and motel
rooms than homes. They can be installed
in a window or through a hole in the
wall—wall installations being preferable
for appearances sake. Through-the-wall
Fan
Gas
condenses
into a liquid
Indoor
Coils
 Compressor

Gas Liquid
condenses Fan evaporates
into a into gas
liquid
Expansion
Valve
Indoor
Coils
Outdoor
Coils

Fig. 2 A split-system heat pump cooling cycle

installations, however, sometimes aren't The Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio

well insulated from inside to outside and
can have infiltration problems. When
When selecting a new used, mini-split systems can solve these
problems.
heat pump,
Selecting a Heat Pump
it’s important that When selecting an air-source heat pump,
consider the following three characteris-
you determine the tics carefully: the energy efficiency rating,
sizing, and the system's components.
proper size needed for
Energy efficiency rating
your home. In the United States, we rate a heat
pump's energy efficiency by how many
British thermal units (Btu) of heat it moves
for each watt-hour of electrical energy it
consumes. Every residential heat pump
sold in this country has an EnergyGuide
Label, which features the heat pump's
heating and cooling efficiency perfor-
mance rating, comparing it to other avail-
able makes and models.
The Heating Seasonal Performance Factor
(HSPF) rates both the efficiency of the
compressor and the electric-resistance ele-
ments. The HSPF gives the number of Btu
harvested per watt-hour used. The most
efficient heat pumps have an HSPF of
between 8 and 10.
(SEER) rates a heat pump's cooling effi-
ciency. In general, the higher the SEER, the
higher the cost. However, the energy sav-
ings can return the higher initial invest-
ment several times during the heat
pump’s life. Replacing a 1970s vintage,
central heat pump (SEER = 6) with a new
unit (SEER=12) will use half the energy to
provide the same amount of cooling, cut-
ting air-conditioning costs in half. The
most efficient heat pumps have SEERs of
between 14 and 18.
You'll find the Energy Star® label—spon-
sored by the U.S Department of Energy
(DOE) and the U.S. Environmental Protec-
tion Agency (EPA)—on heat pumps with
an HSPF of at least 7 and a SEER of at
least 12. Many new heat pumps exceed
these ratings, but looking for this label is a
good way to start shopping for one.

3
 Sizing
New Energy-Efficient Heat Pumps When selecting a new heat
pump, it's important that you
The efficiency and performance of
determine the proper size
today’s air-source heat pumps is one-
and-a-half to two times greater than
needed for your home. Bigger
those available 30 years ago. This is not better. Oversizing
improvement in efficiency has resulted causes the heat pump to start
from technical advances and options and stop more frequently,
such as: which is less efficient and
• Thermostatic expansion valves for harder on the components
more precise control of the refriger- than letting it run for longer
ant flow to the indoor coil cycles. A properly sized heat
• Variable speed blowers, which are pump also will provide you
more efficient and can compensate with better comfort and
for some of the adverse effects of humidity control than an
restricted ducts, dirty filters, and
oversized one.
dirty coils
• Improved coil design The heating and cooling
• Improved electric motor and two- capacity of heat pumps is
speed compressor designs measured in Btu per hour. The
• Copper tubing, grooved inside to cooling capacity is commonly
increase surface area. expressed in "tons" of cooling
capacity—each ton equaling
12,000 Btu per hour. Correct
sizing procedures involve complex calcu-
lations, which are best performed by an
experienced contractor, who uses sizing
methods accepted by the heat pump
industry. Don't employ a contractor who
guesses the size of the heat pump needed.
Rule-of-thumb sizing techniques are gen-
erally inaccurate, often resulting in higher
than necessary purchase and annual
energy costs.
System components
You and your contractor should discuss
options that will help improve your
You and your home's comfort and the economy of your
heat pump. Regarding ducts, for example,
contractor should dis- it's important to carefully consider their
design and materials, as well as the proper
cuss options amount of space they require. Check your
home's blueprints to see if the architect
that will help improve and builder have planned adequate space
for ducts and fans. Heating and cooling
your home’s comfort contractors complain that they often have
to squeeze heating and cooling systems
and the economy of into spaces that are too small, resulting in
constricted ducts and inadequate airflow.
your heat pump.
Except for packaged systems, you'll also
need to select the proper type of indoor
coil for adequate summer moisture
removal.
Installing a New Heat Pump
A heat pump's performance and energy
4
efficiency not only depend on the selection
and planning of the equipment but also on
careful installation.
Consumers and home builders alike tend
to accept the lowest bid for heating and
air-conditioning work. This unfortunate
choice can often leave a system lacking 10
to 30 percent in the materials and labor
necessary to optimize heat-pump
performance. Rather than just accepting
the lowest bid, it's best to research the
performance records of local contractors,
and get involved in the planning and
decision-making about your new heat
pump system.
You can avoid most of the common com-
fort and performance problems from
improper installation by following these
guidelines:
• Make your home as energy-efficient as
you can with proper insulation, energy-
efficient windows, and an effective air
barrier, etc. Then your contractor can
install a smaller pump system with
shorter duct lengths. In an energy-
efficient home, it isn’t necessary to run
ducts all the way out to exterior walls to
install registers near the exterior walls.
• Install the ducts inside your home’s
insulation and air barrier, if possible.
Research shows that this strategy is a
major energy saver.
• Insulate your ducts to R-8 if they
must be located in an attic or crawl
space beyond the home’s air barrier
and insulation.
• Locate the outdoor unit on the northside
of your home if possible. If not, pick a
shady spot. There should be no obstruc-
tions within 10 feet of the sides with
openings and the top.
• Specify that the measured air leakage
through your new ducts be less than
10 percent of your system’s airflow.
Air leakage of 5 percent or less is possi-
ble with careful workmanship.
• Tell your contractor that you want a
return register in every room.
• Don’t use building cavities as ducts.
Building-cavity return ducts are notori-
ously leaky and often cause comfort,
energy, and moisture problems.
• Pull on ductwork after installation to
make sure it is fastened and sealed well.
(Seal duct joints with mastic.)
 Improving Performance
Poor installation, duct losses, and inade-
quate maintenance are more of a problem
for heat pumps than for combustion fur-
naces. A growing body of evidence sug-
gests that most heat pumps have
significant installation or service problems
that reduce performance and efficiency.
According to a report on research funded
by Energy Star‚ more than 50 percent of all
heat pumps have significant problems
with low airflow, leaky ducts, and incor-
rect refrigerant charge.
Increasing airflow in central
Measurements heat pumps
The capacity and the efficiency of a heat
of heat pump pump depend upon adequate airflow.
There should be about 400 to 500 cubic
performance feet per minute (cfm) airflow for each ton
of the heat pump’s air-conditioning capac-
indicate that duct ity. Efficiency and performance deteriorate
if airflow is much less than 350 cfm per
leakage waste 10 to 30 ton.
percent of the An ideal duct system has both a supply
register and a return register for every
room. Most homes, however, have only
heating and/or cool- one or two return registers for the entire
house. Air from other rooms must find its
ing energy in way back to these registers to be reheated
or re-cooled. Obstructions in return air are
a typical home. a common air circulation problem, partic-
ularly from closed interior doors to rooms
with no return-air register.
Blockage of supply or return air ducts and
registers can pressurize or depressurize
portions of the home, resulting in poor
performance and increased air leakage
through the building envelope. Restric-
tions to airflow have the greatest impact
on the return-air side of the system, so
repairs should start with the return ducts.
Air from every supply register must have
an unobstructed pathway back to a return
register. You can install louvered grilles
through walls or doors, ducts between
rooms, and/or additional return ducts and
registers to improve air circulation.
Technicians can increase the airflow by
cleaning the evaporator coil, increasing fan
speed, or enlarging the ducts—especially
return ducts. Enlarging ducts may seem
drastic but in some cases, might be the
only remedy for poor comfort and high
energy costs.
5
Air-sealing ducts
Measurements of heat pump performance
indicate that duct leakage wastes 10 to 30
percent of the heating and/or cooling
energy in a typical home. It's one of the
most severe energy problems commonly
found in homes because the leaking air is
20° to 70°F warmer than indoor air in win-
ter and 15° to 30°F cooler in the summer.
Duct leakage may cause some minor com-
fort problems when ducts are located in
conditioned areas. But when leaky ducts
are located in an attic or crawl space, the
energy loss is often large. Some of the
worst duct leakage occurs at joints
between the air handler, and the main
supply and return air ducts.
Some main return ducts use plywood or
fiberglass duct-board boxes. These boxes
frequently leak because their joints are
exposed to the duct system’s highest air
pressures. Heating and air-conditioning
contractors often use wall, floor, and ceil-
ing cavities as return ducts. These build-
ing-cavity return ducts are often
accidentally connected to an attic, crawl
space, or even the outdoors, creating seri-
ous air leakage. Fiberglass ducts and flex
ducts are often installed improperly. These
ducts may also deteriorate with age, lead-
ing to significant supply-duct leakage.
The best heating and cooling contractors
have equipment to test for duct leakage.
Testing helps locate duct leaks and indi-
cates how much duct sealing is necessary.
Do not use duct tape for sealing—its lifes-
pan is very short, often less than 6 months.
Adjusting refrigerant charge
Room heat pumps and packaged heat
pumps are charged with refrigerant at the
factory. They are seldom incorrectly
charged. Split-system heat pumps, on the
other hand, are charged in the field, which
can sometimes result in either too much or
too little refrigerant.
Split-system heat pumps that have the
correct refrigerant charge and airflow usu-
ally perform very close to manufacturer’s
listed SEER and HSPF. Too much or too
little refrigerant, however, reduces heat-
pump performance and efficiency.
 For satisfactory performance and effi-
ciency, a split-system heat pump should
be within a few ounces of the correct
charge, specified by the manufacturer.
When the charge is correct, specific refrig-
erant temperatures and pressures listed by
the manufacturer will match temperatures
and pressures measured by your service
technician. Verify these measurements
with the technician.
If the manufacturer’s temperatures and
pressure’s don’t match the measured ones,
refrigerant should be added or with-
drawn, according to standards specified
by the EPA. Refrigeration systems should
be leak-checked at installation and during
each service call.
Manufacturer’s say that a technician
must measure airflow prior to checking
The difference refrigerant charge because the refrigerant
measurements aren’t accurate unless air-
between the energy flow is correct.
Operating a heat pump
consumption of a Like combustion heating systems, you
control heat pumps using thermostats.
well-maintained heat
If you leave and return at regular times
pump and a neglected everyday, you'll save money by using
automatic thermostats, which minimize
one ranges from 10 energy use during the times the home is
unoccupied. However, choosing an auto-
to 25 percent. matic thermostat’s reactivation time
requires considering the duration of heat-
pump operation necessary to restore a
comfortable temperature. During the heat-
ing season, some homeowners also set
their thermostats back 10°F, manually or
automatically, when they leave home or
go to bed.
A two-stage thermostat controls the heat-
ing. The first stage activates the refrigera-
tion system. If it’s too cold outside for the
refrigeration system to counteract the
home’s heat loss, then the thermostat’s
second stage activates the electric resis-
tance coils. An outdoor thermostat will
prevent the less efficient electric resistance
heat from coming on until the outdoor
temperature falls below 40°F. An outdoor
thermostat also will prevent auxiliary heat
from activating when an automatic ther-
mostat is warming the house after a set-
back period. Use setback thermostats that
are only for heat pumps.
6
A defrost control tells the reversing valve
when to send hot refrigerant outdoors to
thaw the outdoor coil during the winter.
During the 2-to-10-minute defrost cycle,
auxiliary heat takes over, reducing the
heat pump’s overall efficiency up to 10
percent. The two most common types of
defrost controls are time-temperature
and demand-defrost. Time-temperature
defrost controls activate defrost at regular
time intervals for set time periods,
whether there is ice on the outdoor coil or
not. A demand-defrost control senses coil
temperature or airflow through the coil,
and only activates defrost if it detects the
presence of ice. Obviously, choosing a heat
pump with demand-defrost will pay a sig-
nificant efficiency dividend.
For greater efficiency, don't locate a ther-
mostat near a heat source or cold draft
because they can cause a heat pump to
operate erratically. This includes shading
thermostats from direct sunlight. Also, do
not turn the thermostat beyond the
desired temperature. It will not make the
heat pump heat or cool your home any
faster. It will only waste energy. Residents
who duel one another over the thermostat
settings, moving it up and down to suit
their different comfort levels, cause heat
pumps to operate erratically and ineffi-
ciently.
Maintaining and Servicing
Heat-pump performance will deteriorate
without regular maintenance and service.
The difference between the energy con-
sumption of a well-maintained heat pump
and a severely neglected one ranges from
10 to 25 percent.
Regular Maintenance
Either the homeowner or service techni-
cian can perform the following routine
maintenance tasks:
• Clean or replace filters regularly (every
2 to 6 months, depending on operating
time and amount of dust in the environ-
ment).
• Clean outdoor coils as often as
necessary (when dirt is visible on the
outside of the coil).
• Remove plant life and debris from
around the outdoor unit.
 • Clean evaporator coil and condensate
pan every 2 to 4 years.
• Clean the blower’s fan blades.
• Clean supply and return registers and
straighten their fins.
Professional Service
You should have a professional technician
service your heat pump at least every year.
The technician can:
• Inspect ducts, filters, blower, and indoor
coil for dirt and other obstructions.
• Diagnose and seal duct leakage.
• Verify adequate airflow by measurement.
• Verify correct refrigerant charge by mea-
surement.
• Check for refrigerant leaks.
• Inspect electric terminals, and if neces-
sary, clean and tighten connections, and
apply nonconductive coating.
• Lubricate motors, and inspect belts for
tightness and wear.
• Verify correct electric control, making
sure that heating is locked out when the
thermostat calls for cooling and vice
versa.
• Verify correct thermostat operation.

Resources Fax: (703) 575-4449

The following are sources of additional information on
heat pumps. This list is not exhaustive, nor does the
mention of any resource constitute a recommendation
or endorsement.
E-mail: info@ms.acca.org
Web site: www.acca.org/
A national, trade association of heating, ventilation,
air-conditioning, and refrigeration contractors.

Ask an Energy Expert Air-Conditioning and Refrigeration Institute (ARI)

DOE’s Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy 4301 N. Fairfax Drive, Suite 425
Clearinghouse (EREC) Arlington, VA 22203
Phone: (703) 524-8800
P.O. Box 3048
Fax: (703) 528-3816
Merrifield, VA 22116
E-mail: ari@ari.org
1-800-DOE-EREC (363-3732)
Web site: www.ari.org/
E-mail: doe.erec@nciinc.com
Online submittal form: A national trade association representing manufacturers of
www.eren.doe.gov/menus/energyex.html U.S. produced central air-conditioning and commercial refriger-
Consumer Energy Information Web site: ation equipment.
www.eren.doe.gov/consumerinfo/
Consortium for Energy Efficiency (CEE)
Energy experts at EREC provide free general and One State Street, Suite 1400
technical information to the public on many topics Boston, MA 02109-3507
and technologies pertaining to energy efficiency and Phone: (617) 589-3949
renewable energy. Fax: (617) 589-3948
DOE’s Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy Web site: www.ceeformt.org/
Network (EREN) A national, nonprofit, benefits corporation that promotes
Web site: www.eren.doe.gov the manufacture and purchase of energy-efficient products
and services.
Your comprehensive online resource for DOE’s energy
efficiency and renewable energy information.

Organizations
Air Conditioning Contractors of America (ACCA)
2800 Shirlington Rd., Suite 300
Arlington, VA 22206
Phone: (703) 575-4477 (Continued on page 8)

7
(Continued from page 7) Further Reading
Consumer Guide to Home Energy Savings, Wilson A.,
Eastern Heating & Cooling Council (EH-CC) Thorne J., Morrill J, American Council for an Energy-
20,000 Horizon Way, Suite 260 Efficient Economy (ACE3), Washington, DC.
Mt. Laurel, NJ 08054 Available from ACE3 at (202)429-8873,
E-mail: info@eh-cc.org ac3pubs@ix.netcom.com, or online at www.aceee.org.
Web site: www.eh-cc.org/
Energy Savers: Tips on Saving Energy and Money
Educates consumers and contractors on properly designed at Home, DOE. Available from EREC (see Ask an Energy
and installed high-efficiency heating and cooling systems. Expert above) or online in PDF and HTML at
Energy Star® www.eren.doe.gov/consumerinfo/energy_savers/.
DOE and EPA Geothermal Heat Pumps Make Sense for Homeowners,
Phone: (888) STAR-YES (782-7937) DOE Office of Geothermal Technologies, 1998.
E-mail: info@energystar.gov/ Available from EREC (see Ask an Energy Expert above)
Web site: www.energystar.gov/ or online in PDF at www.eren.doe.gov/
Provides lists of energy-efficient, Energy Star®-qualified geothermal/pdf/26161b.pdf or in HTML at
products, including heat pumps. www.eren.doe.gov/erec/factsheets/
ghp_homeowners.html.
Home Energy Magazine
2124 Kittredge Street, #95 Residential Energy: Cost Savings and Comfort for
Berkeley, CA 94704 Existing Buildings , Krigger J., Saturn Resource
Phone: (510) 524-5405 Management, Helena, MT 2000. Available from Saturn
E-mail: contact@homeenergy.org, at (406) 443-3433.
Web site: www.homeenergy.org/
A source of information on reducing energy
consumption in the home.

Web Sites
Heat Pumps
The Energy Outlet
Web site: www.energyoutlet.com/res/heatpump/

Heat Pumps for Heating and Cooling

DOE Office of Building Technology, State and
Community Programs
Web site: www.eren.doe.gov/buildings/
ee_heatpump.html

International Energy Agency Heat Pump Centre

Web site: www.heatpumpcentre.org/

Top-Rated Energy-Efficient Appliances

American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy
Web site: www.aceee.org/consumerguide/2000enef.htm

Why Buy Energy-Efficient Appliances?

DOE Office of Codes and Standards
Web site: www.eren.doe.gov/buildings/
consumer_information/