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TAT TUNING Jr last month's issue we reported on now to to get more power from a standard TR7 engine, starting with the simple task of Feplacing the exhaust manifold and working Fight through to dropping in a redundant Rover SD1 VB motor. However, our guide Terry Hurrell of Triumphtune in Richmond warned thatthe engine was to be uprated it ‘was also essential todo something about the Suspension, unless you were prepared torisk lundersteering into the nearest ditch the frst time you tied out the extra power. ‘Solest this fate befall any unfortunate SCM reader, we beat hasty path back to Trhumphtune where Terry has been educa Jing us inthe best way to improve the TR's roadholding and handling. “The trouble is,’ he says, ‘that_ British Leyland designed the TR7 as an American market sports car which would have none of the rattles and bangs you'd have found in a traditional British sportscar, and they thought they could iron out all these problems with soft springs, Soto makeita suitable sportscar for British roads, ifs essential to tune the suspension However, before going onto look at how to cure the Triumphs jelly-like chassis, its ‘worth noting that as far as the standard Suspension fs concerned there is some good ews. Unlike the TR's engine, which is hardly a reliable unit, the running gear is known fo give few problems, and because no Significant changes were made during the ‘Production run, any chassis responds well to B'standard tuning formula. The only cars possibly not worth considering are the early Models, which by now might be in an advanced state of rust underneath, making them difficult to work on. Basically, the TR7's suspension is a faitly conventional setup using simple MacPher- Son struts at the front (wth an anti-roll bar) land a four link lve ear axle, Weighing in at 20.8cws (the drophead sa few ibmore), the ‘TRI ist exactly a lightweight sportscar “Anyone who has drvena TR? willknow that the major shortcoming ofthe chassis isnot 2

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