TAT TUNING
Jr last month's issue we reported on now to
to get more power from a standard TR7
engine, starting with the simple task of
Feplacing the exhaust manifold and working
Fight through to dropping in a redundant
Rover SD1 VB motor. However, our guide
Terry Hurrell of Triumphtune in Richmond
warned thatthe engine was to be uprated it
‘was also essential todo something about the
Suspension, unless you were prepared torisk
lundersteering into the nearest ditch the frst
time you tied out the extra power.
‘Solest this fate befall any unfortunate SCM
reader, we beat hasty path back to
Trhumphtune where Terry has been educa
Jing us inthe best way to improve the TR's
roadholding and handling.
“The trouble is,’ he says, ‘that_ British
Leyland designed the TR7 as an American
market sports car which would have none of
the rattles and bangs you'd have found in a
traditional British sportscar, and they thought
they could iron out all these problems with
soft springs, Soto makeita suitable sportscar
for British roads, ifs essential to tune the
suspension
However, before going onto look at how to
cure the Triumphs jelly-like chassis, its
‘worth noting that as far as the standard
Suspension fs concerned there is some good
ews. Unlike the TR's engine, which is
hardly a reliable unit, the running gear is
known fo give few problems, and because no
Significant changes were made during the
‘Production run, any chassis responds well to
B'standard tuning formula. The only cars
possibly not worth considering are the early
Models, which by now might be in an
advanced state of rust underneath, making
them difficult to work on.
Basically, the TR7's suspension is a faitly
conventional setup using simple MacPher-
Son struts at the front (wth an anti-roll bar)
land a four link lve ear axle, Weighing in at
20.8cws (the drophead sa few ibmore), the
‘TRI ist exactly a lightweight sportscar
“Anyone who has drvena TR? willknow that
the major shortcoming ofthe chassis isnot 2