Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Click on any of the titles to take you to the appropriate piece
Features
Travel: Oaxaca Fits the Agave: Sweetness through
Vegan Bill 11 the Millennia 27
By Jill Nussinow, MS, RD By Marty Davey, MS, RD
A vegan journey through one of An fascinating article on the
Mexico’s most famous culinary historical cultivation and uses of
regions. agave.
Tips and Techniques 15 Chocolate, Corn, and Chiles:
By Chef Jason Wyrick An Explosion of Raw Flavor
From pan roasting to rinsing 31
onions, these techniques make for By Chef Angela Elliott
a fun, authentic experience in
Angela shares her amazing recipes
your Mexican kitchen.
for corn tortillas and fajita burritos.
Cazuelas, Comales, and
Columns
Molcajetes 17
By Chef Jason Wyrick
What’s Cooking? 3
A few pieces of equipment can Find out what’s up with the Vegan
change your dining from good to Culinary Experience this month.
spectacular.
From the Garden: Mesquite
Uncommon Ingredients 20 Smoked Chipotle Peppers 33
By Chef Jason Wyrick By Liz Lonetti
Every culture has their own Learn about mesquite trees,
unique ingredients and Mexican is jalapenos, and how to dry and
no exception. smoke your own chipotles!
Glorious Chiles 23 Marketplace 7
By Chef Jason Wyrick
Get connected and find out about
A guide on how to handle, vegan friendly businesses and
purchase, and identify a host of organizations.
chiles
Recipe Index 61
A listing of all the recipes found in
this issue, compiled with links.
see the following page for
interviews and reviews…
La Cocina Mexicana 1|August 2010
Table of Contents 2
Click on any of the titles to take you to the appropriate piece
Interviews Reviews
Interview with Author Robin Restaurant Review:
Robertson 35 The Veggie Grill 54
By Jason Wyrick
Robin is a prolific vegan cookbook
author, with 19 different books A Southern California restaurant
under her belt. serving casual vegan Southwestern
fare.
Jasmin Singer and Mariann
Product Review: Frontera
Sullivan of Our Hen House
Salsa 56
39
By Madelyn Pryor
Meet the founders of Our Hen
High quality authentic Mexican
House, a clearing house for animal
salsas for any occasion.
activism issues.
Book Review: Speed Vegan
Featured Artist 58
By Madelyn Pryor
Game Designer and Author
Quick and bold recipes in under
Bruce Cordell 44 thirty minutes.
Not only is Bruce a longtime game
Book Review: 500 Vegan
designer and author, he’s a
vegetarian with an eye on Recipes 59
By Madelyn Pryor
environmental issues.
A rock solid cookbook with a large
Featured Medical collection of delicious recipes
perfect for the home cook.
Professional
Jeff Novick, MS, RD, LN, LD
49
Jeff Novick is one of the most well‐
known vegan dieticians in the
world with a well‐deserved
reputation as a funny and
engaging speaker.
Madelyn Pryor ‐ Madelyn is a lover of dessert, which she celebrates on her blog,
http://badkittybakery.blogspot.com/. She has been making her own tasty desserts for over
16 years, and eating dessert for longer than she cares to admit. When she isn’t in the
kitchen creating new wonders of sugary goodness, she is chasing after her bad kitties, or
reviewing products for various websites and publications. She can be contacted at
thebadkittybakery@gmail.com or madelyn@veganculinaryexperience.com.
Sharon Valencik ‐ Sharon Valencik is the author of Sweet Utopia: Simply Stunning Vegan
Desserts. She is raising two vibrant young vegan sons and rescued animals, currently a rabbit
and a dog. She comes from a lineage of artistic chef matriarchs and has been baking since age
five. She is working on her next book, World Utopia: Delicious and Healthy International
Vegan Cuisine. Please visit www.sweetutopia.com for more information, to ask questions, or
to provide feedback.
Milan Valencik ‐ Milan Valencik is the food stylist and photographer of Sweet Utopia: Simply
Stunning Vegan Desserts. His company, Milan Photography, specializes in artistic event
photojournalism, weddings, and other types of photography. Milan is also a fine artist and
musician. Milan is originally from Czech Republic and now lives in NJ. For more information
about Milan, please visit www.milanphotography.com or www.sweetutopia.com.
Jill Nussinow, MS, RD, The Veggie Queen ‐ Jill is a Registered Dietitian and has a Masters
Degree in Dietetics and Nutrition from Florida International University. After graduating, she
migrated to California and began a private nutrition practice providing individual consultations
and workshops, specializing in nutrition for pregnancy, new mothers, and children. You can
find out more about The Veggie Queen at www.theveggiequeen.com.
Angela Elliott ‐ Angela Elliott is the author of Alive in Five, Holiday Fare with Angela, The
Simple Gourmet, and more books on the way! Angela is the inventor of Five Minute Gourmet
Meals™, Raw Nut‐Free Cuisine™, Raw Vegan Dog Cuisine™, and The Celestialwich™, and the
owner and operator of She‐Zen Cuisine. www.she‐zencuisine.com
Angela has contributed to various publications, including Vegnews Magazine, Vegetarian
Baby and Child Magazine, and has taught gourmet classes, holistic classes, lectured, and on
occasion toured with Lou Corona, a nationally recognized proponent of living food.
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Today while I was driving I saw a van with writing Taking the red eye anywhere can often leave one
on its window that read La Casita de La feeling out of it. And after a short nap in my room, I
Oxacaquena. The word below it that caught my eye was ready for lunch. Luckily, my family (of origin)
was tlayuda. I only know the allure of this word as I arrived the day before and had scoped out the
was recently in Oaxaca (wa ha ka), Mexico, which is beest place to hang out in the Zocalo (the plaza) to
about an hour flight from Mexico City but a world have a drink and light lunch. Preceding the meal,
apart. peanuts (cacahautes) with chili and lime are set on
the table. These tasty, salty treats get you primed
Oaxaca is a place where cultures clash and mix in
for beer (cerveza) or mezcal drinks. Best to avoid
an unbelievable way, especially when it comes to
the water, and order it in bottles, and the ice.
food. While history is great, food is immediate
Guacamole is served in almost every restaurant,
gratification. Prior to going, I got insight into the
accompanied by tasty (but not at all low fat or
food scene from those friends and family who'd
calorie) chips. You can easily get cooked beans, and
gone before me. Armed with my list and a small
a dish of peppers and onions as a topping to put on
guidebook discovered at Casa Ollin, the 10‐room
corn tortillas. One lunch down, and no problem
bed and breakfast where we stayed we ate and
with vegan eating so far.
drank well, and often.
That night for ease of eating, we went to a
recommend restaurant, La Olla which was a
favorite with a friend in the US and was
recommended by others who had been to Oaxaca.
The big draw there for me were the sizeable salads
made with salad ingredients which had been
disinfected which means that you don’t have to
worry about the water, germs and after effects,
which are not uncommon in Mexico. (You likely
have heard of turista. The effects are quite
unpleasant.) It is also home to a bed and breakfast
and cooking school where I had hoped to go.
(Turned out that the menu was not interesting
Casa Ollin enough to warrant the $60 per person fee.) The
vegetarian tamals and the nopal tacos without
I’ll do a short recap of some of the food and
cheese were not stellar but a step up from
highlights of this brief trip with links.
passable. Whenever possible, go with traditional
They also had a luscious black bean soup, and
vegetarian tamales. Always be sure to ask if there is
cheese in any and every dish. They try hard to get it
in there, it seems. This meal will likely cost you up The market and street food highlights were the
to $20 to $25 per person while most other meals fresh fruit offerings. A large incredibly sweet
will be in the $10 to $15 range. pineapple was purchased for $2 US. On the street, I
procured sapote and cherimoya for about 50 cents
A great place to stop for drinks is Las Danzantes
each. Vendors peel mangoes for you from their
which has an interesting and hip atmosphere and a
street cart. In the morning, steet carts offer fresh
retractable roof which they opened while we were
squeezed orange juice.
there. The passion fruit margarita was quite tasty
and they offer a range of different mezcal drinks I also adored the
next to their water feature. We heard that the food sweet puffed
wasn’t very good so stuck only with drinks there. quinoa, pumpkin
seed or dried fruit
Our last lunch was eaten
bars that you can
at La Biznaga where we
purchase on the
tried to eat the prior
street and at any
night but opted out as
market. They also
there was an hour wait
have bags of
at 8 pm. The margaritas
roasted pumpkin
are huge and strong
seeds for sale for
there so be careful.
5 pesos each.
There are many vegan
These types of
choices if you request no
natural snacks are abundant but be sure that you
cheese in your dishes. They say that their food is
see what you are really getting because the size of
I was quite amazed with the quality and range of Jill Nussinow is a Registered
vegan food offered in Oaxaca. I liked it so much Dietitian, cookbook author of The
that I am considering taking a group there next Veggie Queen™: Vegetables Get
spring on a tour. If you are interested, please send the Royal Treatment and stars in
me an email. the DVD Pressure Cooking: A
Fresh Look, Delicious Dishes in
Simple Soft Tacos
Minutes. She’s available to do
This is more an idea based on what I ate in Oaxaca, cooking classes and workshops
rather than a recipe. throughout the US. She hopes to take a number of
groups traveling next year. This October she will be
I use Food for Life Sprouted Corn tortillas and fill teaching classes at Rancho La Puerta Spa in Tecate,
them with black beans, avocado or guacamole, Mexico. You can find Jill at
sauteed mushrooms, onions and red peppers and www.theveggiequeen.com.
top it al with cilantro. I add sautéed nopal (cactus)
if I have it and some hot sauce or a bit of mole.
Mole requires time to make and most people, even
those from Oaxaca living here in the US, buy
already prepared mole. Add your favorite
vegetables to these tacos and if you want to be
really decadent, sprinkle with some Daiya
mozzarella style cheese which is much closer to the
Oaxacan cheese than the cheddar style will be.
Each culture has its own cooking techniques and the ingredient until the entirety has developed that
Mexican cuisine is no different. With just a few look. That’s the sign that you’re done. If you’re
tricks, you can make your meals superb and save roasting chiles, don’t forget to peel and deseed
yourself a few headaches while you’re at it! them when you are done!
Pan Roasting You can roast onions, garlic, tomatoes, tomatillos,
chiles, squash, carrots, and any other non‐starchy,
Usually when we think of roasting, we think of the solid ingredient. Make sure that if you have a large
oven. However, you can achieve a roasted, ingredient, like an onion or squash, that you cut it
caramelized texture straight in the pan. If you live into pieces no deeper than 1”. They can be wide
in the South or Southwest, that’s particularly and they can be long, but if the height is too much,
important because turning your oven on during the the ingredient won’t adequately roast all the way
height of summer is decidedly unfun! through. When roasting garlic, leave the paper on
the garlic. It helps protect the edible clove inside.
To start, you’ll need a dry, heavy pan (heavy,
because it conducts the heat more evenly), Toasting
preferably a comal or an iron skillet. Bring the pan
to a medium heat, then add your ingredients. The Toasting dried chiles and spices activates their
more surface area of an ingredient you can expose essential oils and deepens their flavors. In Mexican
to the direct heat of the pan, the faster and more cuisine, unlike many other cuisines, however, a
evenly your ingredients will roast. This usually isn’t little charring of those ingredients can be ok. This
a problem unless you are roasting some chiles that is particularly true with peppers. In fact, the color
have a rippled texture, like a poblano. The best of mole negro is said by some to come from the
way around this is to look for chiles that are as flat charring of the peppers and seeds.
as possible, but that’s not always feasible. If you
have a more textured chile, gently press the chile When toasting ingredients, you’ll generally want
down as it roasts. As the chile softens, it will lay your pan just below a medium heat and like pan‐
flatter against the pan, giving it a more even roast. roasting, this works best in a comal or iron skillet,
though any heavy pan will do. With dried spices,
Your ingredients will develop some charring as they toast them to the point where they start to change
soften, which is part of the flavor of pan roasted color, but not to the point where they char. Slowly
veggies. Look for some blackening, softening, and and gently stir the spices as they toast and be
caramelization. When you see that develop, turn ready to get them out of the pan as soon as they
You certainly don’t need any special equipment to these still work just as well as the pure basalt ones.
make great Mexican cuisine. A set of pots, pans, The hand held tool, called a tejolote, is typically
and knives will do, but there is some gear that will made of the same material as the molcajete.
definitely make your time in la cocina more fun! Molcajetes are most famous for their use in making
Not only are these kitchen pieces more fun, they’re guacamole. The wide shape and rough texture of
ideal for developing truly quintessential Mexican the bowl make it ideal for building up layers of
sabor (that’s flavor for you gringos) for some of this ingredients and then quickly mashing the avocado
issue’s dishes. and stirring everything together. Ingredients can
be ground into a paste or simply pressed, forcing
This cookware isn’t just about creating good food, certain flavors to the surface and leaving other
however. It’s about creating an experience. ones beneath (as opposed to a food processor or
Nothing says fiesta more than the aroma of mole blender, which simply chops or purees ingredients
slow‐cooking in a cazuela, or guacamole served in a and doesn’t really alter their flavors). This works
molcajete, or corn tortillas warming in a comal, or just as well for different salsas and a guacamole
peppers roasting on the grill. Invite some friends and salsa that takes advantage of the techniques
over to share the rustic beauty this traditional available in a molcajete will taste qualitatively
cookware brings to a warm gathering of close different than ones that are blended or chopped.
companions. Good friends centered around good In fact, I’ve even known some people that disliked
drinks and good food is what true Mexican cuisine guacamole (yes, it’s possible; I don’t understand
is all about. how, but it is) fall in love with molcajete‐fashioned
guacamole built up with a simple rough chile and
Molcajete garlic paste (see the Guacamole recipe later in this
issue!).
A molcajete is
basically a Try pressing diced onions and fresh chopped herbs
mortar and and creating roasted chile and garlic pastes in your
pestle, but with a molcajete to get a quick example of what you can
wider and shallower bowl than more common do with this incredibly versatile vessel. You may
versions. Traditionally made from basalt, notice that the pastes you make are not entirely
molcajetes are fairly rough, making them ideal for uniform, an advantage since it means each bite of
quickly turning ingredients like roasted garlic and what you make in the molcajete will be subtly
roasted peppers into pastes. Some versions are different than the ones before. Finally, your
now made using a mix of basalt and concrete, but
Common in Mexico doesn’t necessarily mean sassafras, and peppery tones. The leaves are large
familiar elsewhere and sometimes even familiar in enough that they can be used to wrap tamales and
one region of Mexico doesn’t translate into oft flavor them and yerba santa is an integral
used in another! Below is a list of less than component to mole verde. Although it can be
common Mexican ingredients used throughout this found dried, it is more commonly found and used
issue. Note that these are only the ingredients fresh. Look at your local Mexican market for yerba
used in this issue. Take a trip to a Mexican market santa or if you live in a warmer clime, check out
and you may run into annatto seeds and paste, some of the better nurseries in your area.
avocado leaves, lengua de vaca leaves, and a host
of other ingredients! I strongly urge you to take a Mexican Oregano: Mexican
trip to such a market not only to find the oregano is actually not
ingredients from this piece, but to explore some related to oregano, but
other foods with which you may not be familiar. rather verbena. However, it
has a flavor profile very
Epazote: Epazote is a leafy similar to Greek oregano
herb that has a strong, aromatic with added eucalyptus
quality reminiscent of anise. It notes. This herb is most commonly found dried
is often simmered with beans, and can be found in most stores with a decent
though it can certainly be used spice selection. You can sometimes find it fresh,
to flavor other dishes like though even at Mexican markets, dried is more
tamales, quesadillas, and soups. prevalent.
Dried epazote is usually available at most spice
stores, but fresh will be readily available at any Avocado Leaves: Avocado
Mexican market worth its salt. Some recipes leaves are used in much
substitute oregano for epazote. While they are the same way as bay
fairly different flavors, oregano is still strong leaves, but like many
enough to impart a heavy herbal flavor to a dish. If Mexican herbs, it has a
you can find epazote, however, it’s the way to go. high aromatic note to it
reminiscent of anise. In fact, it’s close enough that
Yerba Santa (Hoja Santa): a pinch of anise can be used in a dish to impart a
Yerba santa means sacred flavor similar to mango leaves, though avocado
herb in Spanish and is also leaves definitely make a better choice when called
known as hoja santa, or for. These are easily found dried in Mexican
sacred leaf. It has a very markets and if you live in a region that produces
complex flavor, combining avocadoes, you can pick them right off the tree.
high aromatic anise‐like notes with eucalyptus,
Chef Jason Wyrick is
an award winning
vegan chef and the
owner of Arizona's
only vegan catering
company, Devil
Spice. Serving the
state since 2004 as both a caterer and a prolific
vegan culinary instructor, Chef Jason has garnered
local and national attention. He was chosen as
vegcooking.com's October, 2005 Chef of the Month
and has been featured in the Arizona Republic and
on ABC's local morning show, Sonoran Living Live.
Formerly a diabetic, Chef Jason approaches vegan
cuisine from both a health and ethical standpoint
with an eye for taste and simplicity.
It’s nearly impossible to talk about Mexican cuisine signs the chile is bad. It should have a bounce to it.
without talking about chiles and while I like to Chiles on their way out will simply feel flat and
achieve impossible tasks (though I guess that limp. The rule is, the tighter the flesh, the fresher
makes them possible), not giving chiles their due the chile. After rifling through the chiles, make
seems sacrilegious. Of course, there are so many sure you wash your hands thoroughly! Capsaicin,
chiles, several tomes could be written on the the compound that makes chiles hot, can get on
subject. Not wanting to subject you to such an the skin of the chile and you don’t want to touch
exhaustive work, I’m limiting the discussion to anything delicate with capsaicin on your finger tips.
those chiles used in this issue. First, though, a bit
on selecting and working with chiles. Handling Chiles
Choosing the Right Chile Most of the heat resides in glands inside the chile
on which the seeds grow. These look like white
Dried chiles are the easiest to purchase. They’re membranes that run inside the chile and become
common enough, though some of the specialty larger the closer they are to the stem. To remove
ones can only be found at Mexican markets or much of the heat of the chile, carefully use a paring
specialty stores. Sold in bags or bulk bins, these knife to cut these out. If you have a roasted chile,
chiles need a quick inspection before purchasing if you can slice it open and scrape away the hot
you plan on toasting them or rehydrating them, if “membrane” and seeds, but you don’t want to do
only because dried chiles sometimes end up this before roasting the chile. If you are heat
getting crushed, especially in bulk bins and they are sensitive, you may want to wear gloves before
easier to rehydrate and toast if they are whole. If handling the chile. Again, don’t touch anything
you’re going to grind them into powder, don’t delicate after working with chiles without
worry about it. Also, make sure that the right chile thoroughly washing your hands and if the chile was
is the one being sold. The most common particularly hot, that capsaicin residue will still
mislabeling is between ancho and pasilla chiles. remain on your fingers for several hours.
Anchos tend to be wider and larger than the
smaller pasillas and anchos, when viewed with a Drying Chiles
direct light source behind them, have a dark cherry
red color. Fortunately, most chile sellers are If you love simply watching one ingredient turn into
starting to differentiate between the two items or another or you simply have a passion for chiles,
simply labeling their bags anchos/pasillas and drying your own is an incredibly fun exercise; one
providing a mix of the two chiles. that requires patience, but is well worth the wait.
If you live in a hot, dry climate, like the American
When choosing fresh chiles, look for a tight skin Southwest, you can leave your chiles outside and
that doesn’t have any dark splotches. Those are they will dry on their own. In fact, if you grow your
It’s just another story of liquor and
love.
Mayatl, the mezcal goddess, falls in
love with a warrior. Her body is the
shape of the agave plant with 400
breasts. The warrior feels that he is
not worthy of her. To strengthen
him, she has a special potion from
one of the 400 breasts to quench
her handsome hero. It was agave
sap she fed him. Unfortunately, the
legend ends there. We are left with
an unfinished romance novel.
History picks up the story that agave
hails from valleys that lie beside the
volcano at the heart of the Tequila
region in Mexico. This was home to a highly As you can see Maguey is one of the more common
developed society around 200‐350 BC. We have names of agave. The plant lives about 15 years on
clear records of agave being used by this culture average. The life span culminates in a flower
and some evidence of use with their neighbors to preceding its death. The plant has been thought to
the south. have mystical powers since it is one of the rare
desert flora which produces liquid. The liquid is
Quite possibly the Buddhist monk, Hwei Shan called aguamiel from the Spanish word agua for
landed in North America in 499 AD. That’s about water and miel for honey. This “honey water” can
1000 years before Columbus. Supposedly, he be harvested in a sustainable process and prolong
named the new continent, Fe Sheng, the Chinese the life of the plant. The sap is collected and then
word for blue agave. i goes through an enzymatic process akin to honey
becoming a thicker consistency.
Here are some other names for the domestic
agaves: (common names are in parentheses): Agave was a flavoring agent for daily dishes as well
Agave zapota (sapodilla), Agave atrovirens as being the sweetener of choice for hot chocolate.
(maguey), Agave fourcroydes (henequen), Agave Nuts and seeds were sweetened with it and given
latissima (maguey). Agave mapisaga (maguey). as gifts.
Agave sisalana (sisal) and Agave tequilana (tequil
maguey). Natives of the northern valley of Mexico employed
the plant as a medicinal balm as well as a vinegar,
syrup, rope, fabric, timber, needles and nails. The
In the 19th century, land ownership became Cinco de Mayo translates to Mexican food with
smaller and smaller. The burgeoning populace Margaritas in my house. We will honor the history
were peasant workers who drank pulque. The of the people with the native foods, including
shrinking number of owners drank wine or cognac. derivatives of agave. However, we’ll keep
Workers were allowed to be drunk on Mondays ourselves from living among the Day of the Dead.
just to keep them working under inhospitable
conditions.
Marty Davey is a
Registered Dietitian and
has a Masters degree in
Food and Nutrition from
Marywood University. She
became a vegetarian in
1980 when she discovered
that the chemicals in
American meat made them
unsellable to Europeans. She and her husband have
raised their son as a vegan. She teaches nutrition
and has a private practice specializing in assisting
clients transitioning to a plant-based regime step by
step. Her website is www.martydavey.com.
http://www.google.com/search?q=agave+nectar+history
&hl=en&client=safari&rls=en&tbs=tl:1&tbo=u&ei=WnXQ
S7D6MYT58Aaj-
9CjDw&sa=X&oi=timeline_result&ct=title&resnum=11&v
ed=0CCIQ5wIwCg
ii
http://www.madhavasagave.com/AgavePlant.aspx
iii
http://www.nicks.com.au/index.aspx?link_id=76.1261
By Angela Elliott
Mexican food is one of my favorite cuisines Mexican cuisine since 7500 BC. In Mexico many
because of its rich history, festive spirit, and rich varieties of chiles are used to create a dish. Bell
flavor. One of Mexico's many wonderful gifts is pepper, serrano, jalapeno, cayenne, poblano,
corn. It is at the heart of their culturally rich diet. chipotle, ancho, as well as many others are the
stars in this fun and zesty cuisine.
Corn is a valuable resource to the Mexicans,
one of their richest staples. Corn is also
known as maize and has been growing
domestically some say as long as 10,000
years and before that its ancestors grew Angelina's Amazing Tortillas
wild. The ancestors of maize were radically
different from the plant that is now one of 1 cup golden flax seeds, soaked
the most important crops in the world. Corn 2 cups fresh or frozen corn
in Mexico is sold by vendors as elotes, 1 ripe avocado
esquites, and chileatole. 3 tablespoons fresh cilantro
1 tablespoon cacao powder
In America, our favorite way to eat corn is 1 teaspoon cumin powder
grilled corn on the cob on a hot summery 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
afternoon. It's amazing how versatile corn is 1 teaspoon fresh squeezed lime juice
and all we can use it for. Personally, I make Himalayan salt to taste
raw tortillas, chips, taco shells, corn Use a small amount of water, little by
chowder, and salads. I love to grow corn on little, and just enough to help the
the cob, so I can just eat it right off the stalk mixture to blend smoothly.
with nothing on it. It's absolutely marvelous
and so sweet, too. Directions
Soak the flax seeds. Then, blend
Another magical gift from Mexico that also everything. Spread the batter on
has very rich history is chocolate. In Mexico, Teflex sheets . Dehydrate at 104
chocolate is used to make a wide array of degrees for 2‐3 hours and flip.
dishes, but a daily favorite is a hot chocolate Dehydrate for another 2‐3 hours, just
drink served with hot peppers and spices. until they are soft and pliable, you
Mole, the crown of Mexico is a labor don't want them to get crispy. The
intensive sauce made from nuts, seeds, tortillas can be placed on wax paper
spices, Mexican chocolate, and chiles. The and stored in plastic baggies and kept
most famous moles are Mole Poblano and in the refrigerator until ready to use.
Oaxaca's black mole. Mole is often saved for
religious ceremonies, weddings and other
special occasions. Chiles are another important
staple of Mexican cuisine. Chiles have been used in
order to make the very versatile and delicious flour,
but oftentimes they don’t realize that you can use
the pods in many other ways, including as a
substitute for mesquite wood in smoking!
The easiest way to determine if the Mesquite Tree
in your yard or neighborhood is of the edible
variety is to pick a pod from the tree and just chew
lightly on it. The flavor of the pods vary from tree
to tree, some sweeter and some more bitter than
others. You’ll quickly be able to determine if your
pods are coming from one of our sweeter, tasty
native trees or a hybrid import Mesquite from
abroad or from a bitter variety like the Chilean
This summer the Mesquite trees are looking Mesquite, for example has very astringent pods!
particularly fruitful after an unseasonably mild and You wouldn’t want to mix up the different beans
wet winter! Mesquite Trees are one of the most together in a batch or you will end up with bitter
productive trees and one of the oldest sources of flour, so be sure to check the flavor of the beans
food available in the desert, supporting both the before you harvest.
ancient human desert dwellers, but also an For a unique flavor of the desert southwest, try
abundance of wildlife. The bark was used for combining the exceptional flavor of a smoky
making baskets, fabrics and even medicines. The mesquite barbeque, using collected Mesquite
wood, besides being an excellent firewood, could Beans instead of Mesquite wood, with one of our
be made into weapons, mortars and stools. The favorite garden
large thorns were very useful as sewing producers, the
implements and the leaves for making medicinal jalapeño pepper!
teas treating head and stomach aches and also as a The unripe green
soothing eyewash. Even the sap could be eaten or jalapeños are most
used as an adhesive and light dye. Overall, it would familiar, but this
be hard to imagine a more useful tree to those versatile fruit is
early inhabitants of this area. also used to create the Chipotle pepper ‐ a
There are three types of Mesquite Tree that complexly flavored vital addition to many Mexican
produce the sweetest and tastiest pods for picking dishes. Traditionally the Chipotle peppers were
and eating. The Velvet, Honey and Screwbean smoked in a large pit over wood embers for days,
Mesquite trees are all native to the Sonoran desert but you can use your barbeque or home smoker
regions and have pods that can be eaten as green instead. The basic idea in creating the Chipotle
pod, almost like edamame, or collected dry and pepper is to slowly dehydrate the fully ripe, glossy
ground into flour. Most people collect the pods in red jalapeño over low heat combined with smoke.
Resources
www.urbanfarm.org
www.phoenixpermaculture.org
Please tell us a bit about yourself? What led you to become vegan and what led you
to become an author?
I’d have to say I’m a committed person. I’m
committed to cooking and developing good vegan My lifelong love of animals persuaded me to follow
food, and this works hand‐in‐hand with my my heart and become vegan more than 20 years
commitment to helping animals. My husband Jon ago. It was then when I quit working in restaurants
and I share our home in Virginia with three and began to develop my own cooking style, using
wonderful black and white cats: Gary, Mitzi, and my professional experience to prepare plant‐based
Jason. ingredients in delicious ways. I began teaching
others how to do this and realized that I wanted to
How did you get involved in the food business? show people on a larger scale that vegan food
could be creative and interesting, so writing
I grew up in a small town in northeastern cookbooks was a natural step in my progression. I
Pennsylvania. My love of cooking began at an early consider writing vegan cookbooks to be my
age when I would help my mother in the kitchen. I activism. My goal is to eliminate all the excuses
also studied art and enjoyed painting. One day I people have for not going vegan by showing them
had an “ah ha” moment that I should channel my how easy and delicious it can be.
creativity into cooking and I decided to become a
professional chef. I started out by getting a job as a You’ve published quite a few well‐received books.
line cook in a small restaurant in my hometown in Please tell us about your latest book, Vegan on
Pennsylvania, then worked my way up to the Cheap!
ultimately become chef at a French restaurant in
Charleston, South Carolina. In writing Vegan on the Cheap I wanted to dispel
the myth that eating vegan is expensive. In Vegan
on the Cheap, I provide recipes and tips to show
how to prepare great‐tasting and nourishing vegan
Tell us a little bit about Our Hen House (and how academic resources to facilitate both research and
did you choose the name?)! classroom work; legal theories, particularly relating
to lawsuits based in tort; informational resources
The way we describe Our Hen House is "a central to take full advantage of online ‐‐ as well as
clearinghouse for all kinds of ideas on how traditional ‐‐ ways to disseminate information;
individuals can make change for animals." We artistic endeavors; and for‐profit enterprises. All of
created it based on our conviction that a mass this focuses on enabling the vast shift that simply
movement is needed that reaches into the homes has to happen. Stated most simply, our primary
and working lives of vast numbers of individuals, goal is to effectively mainstream the movement to
each of whom must take personal responsibility for end the exploitation of animals.
leading the way to a new world ‐‐ a world where
exploiting animals is recognized as no longer The name just occurred to us and we instantly
necessary for human progress and absolutely must loved it. Looking back after the fact, we realized
end. We created Our Hen House in the hope that it that it has so many things that work for us. We
can help people accomplish this by functioning as a both love chickens – we love their busyness and
resource – an indefatigably positive, accessible, their enthusiasm and total engagement in life, all
and entertaining resource – for those who are of which are characteristics needed by effective
becoming aware of the conditions within which activists. Every day, we aspire to be as ‘in the
animals currently exist, and want to be part of this moment’ as the average hen. They also happen to
new world. To do this, Our Hen House identifies be by far the most abused animals on the planet,
and disseminates information about opportunities and we love identifying hens with something
for individuals to create change, including positive. On a personal note, we just happen to
Please tell us a little bit about yourself. picnic table playing a wondrous game. The DM
described how an ogre was eating dwarves like a
Howdy! I'm an author of novels and games. I'm cartoon cat eats a fish, then throwing each
interested in lots of things, including environmental denuded skeleton behind him into a large pile. The
issues that touch on the sustainability of human PCs studied this tableau from hiding, worried that
civilization on (and off) Earth. Thus I guess it's no they were next. It was beyond anything I had ever
surprise that I'm also interested in individual imagined I could interact with. I was instantly
healthy living, and how factors such as exercise, hooked on D&D (Dungeons & Dragons). And if you
lifestyle, and diet can affect quality of life and run even one D&D game, you've already taken your
longevity. I'm also strongly concerned with animal first steps down the road of game design.
welfare.
Anyway, it was D&D that turned out to be the key
What inspired you to be a writer and a game for me writing novels. Years of kind editorial advice
designer? on my game design prepared me to be a writer
with a modicum of knowledge of the craft. Now,
I've been a reader since I was old enough to pick up continued editorial advice plus a couple of writers
books my Mom bought home every two weeks groups to which I belong continues to sharpen my
from the library‐‐science fiction and fantasy novels pen.
all. The idea of becoming a writer struck me in high
school, and that's when I began writing short What led you to becoming vegetarian?
stories. Like most writers, I have a folder filled with
unpublished short stories, many of them with I've dabbled with being a vegetarian a few times‐‐
politely worded rejection letters. the first period while I lived in Boulder CO, and just
sort of picked it up by osmosis. The second period
Not too many years after I began reading, during a was when I first moved to work at TSR, and found a
late '70s Boy Scouts summer camp, I stumbled subculture of folks there already eating meat‐free,
upon the older scouts huddled around a lantern‐lit and very vocal about it. In fact, the meat‐eaters
What spurred you on to choose nutrition as a diet. While we didn’t stay with the diet for long;
career? this was a jumping off point for me to begin to
explore ideas about vegetarianism, meditation,
I have been interested in food, fitness and health yoga, and other alternative approaches to health.
for as long as I can remember. Some of my earliest Over the next 10 years, I explored different aspects
childhood memories involve helping my of health, wellness, vegetarianism, fitness,
grandmother prepare food from scratch, and philosophy, spirituality etc. Then, around 1983,
learning about wrestling from my grandfather. As a the amount of credible scientific evidence
child my two favorite TV shows were Jack LaLanne supporting a vegan diet/lifestyle was building and
and The Galloping Gourmet with Graham Kerr. becoming clearer. The publication of books like the
When I was in grade school, I petitioned my school McDougall Plan, helped me make the final
to let me become the first male to take Home transition.
Economics instead of Industrial Arts (or “Shop” as it
was called). I wanted to learn about food and Vegans are rare in the medical community. What
cooking, not metal and woodworking. Sports, was it like working as a vegan in that regard?
specifically gymnastics, wrestling, and soccer were
also my interests. I think it is challenging to follow a healthy lifestyle
anywhere today, regardless of whether one is
What led you to become vegan? vegan or not.
In 1973, I had my first experience with I have been fortunate to have a very unique
vegetarianism from the book Love Your Body by experience in that I have never had to work in a
Viktoras P. Kulvinskas. He recommended a raw traditional “medical” setting. Right after
food vegan diet. My neighbor and I tore up a graduation, I began work with The Pritikin
section of my parent’s backyard to plant an organic Longevity Center, where I was Director of Nutrition
garden, started growing sprouts, turned my for 10 years and then in 2008, I left the Pritikin
father’s garage into a gym, and went on a vegan
There are few things more satisfying in life than a The medium flavors are double roasted, corn and
very good salsa. It speaks to your soul while it poblano, guajillo, red pepper and garlic, mango key
dances on your tongue. It elevates simple peasant lime, tomatillo, and jalapeno cilantro. The hot
fare into gourmet food. And everyone has their flavors are habanero, and chipotle. I have tasted
own secret salsa recipes. But the salsa recipes of the habanero, chipotle, jalapeno cilantro, tomatillo,
Mexican food cooking legend Rick Bayless are the mango key lime, red pepper and garlic, roasted
subject of this review. They are the best tomato, and chunky tomato. These were all the
commercially jarred salsas out there. Period. End of flavors I could find in the greater Phoenix area.
Discussion. But I will discuss them anyway. However, each and every one were delightful. I
have a medium/high tolerance for burn, but I
With most jarred salsas (think of the kind you get found the mild salsas to have so much flavor that I
at most supermarkets), you crack open the vacuum did not mind they didn’t deliver a burn. The hot
seal and you’re greeted with a slight metallic scent salsas I ate a little sparingly, dipping in my chips,
that floats along with your tomato sauce and delighted to have such an abundance of sensations
spices. Not that appealing. It is even less appealing besides burn. They are the best salsas outside the
when you grab a chip and dip in, just to be greated ones Chef Jason makes.
with mushy veggies and even more metallic zing.
This is not an optimal chip and salsa experience. I strongly encourage you to seek out these
wonderful treats for yourself! I have locally found
What Bayless has managed to accomplish is to them at World Market, Whole Foods, and some of
bring a fresh tasting, delightful smelling salsa into a our upscale grocery chains. You can also purchase
jar. The tastes and textures remind you of what them through the Frontera website listed above. As
you would get at an authentic Mexican restaurant of this printing, all the salsas are vegan, though
that made their own salsa. That is, if the Mexican some other Frontera products, such as their soups
restaurant were gourmet. Frontera salsas currently and enchilada sauce are not, so before buying
come in 13 exciting flavors. The mild flavors include more than the salsas just read labels. But once you
Spanish olive, chunky tomato, and roasted tomato. get your hands on these salsas, be careful, because
Book Review: Speed Vegan
Author: Alan Roettinger
Author: Alan Roettinger
Publisher: Book Publishing Company
Copyright: 2010
Reviewer: Madelyn Pryor ISBN: 978‐1‐57067‐244‐6
Price: $19.95
Alan Roettinger’s book title jumps off the shelf. and cultures represented, so you will find your
Every vegan has at one time or another been in the pallet widened by this book. Lastly, there are a few
kitchen trying to make a quick dinner that ends up pictures of some of the recipes. Many times there
taking much longer. Once upon a time, when I was are pictures of a chef’s hands preparing these
in graduate school, my dinners of choice were dishes. I think that could have been better replaced
vegan hot dogs and hamburgers, because I knew I with pictures of the food (how else will I know if I
could make those in minutes. did it right?)
While it would take longer than minutes to make Over all, Speed Vegan is a nice addition to your
most of the dishes in Speed Vegan, Roettinger vegan cookbook stash, so go check it out for
sticks to his 30 minute timeframes. Therefore, you yourself!
know if you have the ingredients on hand, you can
make these recipes in the same amount of time it Recommended.
takes to watch one show on the Food Network
(and you can’t eat most of that food, anyway). All
the recipes are tasty, and there are a few I cannot
wait to try, such as the cauliflower and leek soup.
That just looks good. Some of the recipes call for The Reviewer
rather exotic ingredients. How exotic? I live in
Phoenix now, and I have two very large Asian Madelyn is a busy culinary
markets just a few miles from me, and I had still instructor teaching people that
vegan food is not only tasty, it is
not heard of some of them. I used to live in a
filling and comforting, too. She
smaller town, and I know I could not have gotten
is working on trying to get a few
these ingredients there. Roettinger does offer of her own websites up and
substitutions in some of these cases, and in other running, chasing after a tribe of
cases you could just skip those recipes and chose very bad cats, and making
one of the many other fine recipes in this book. delicious desserts. She can be
reached at
Since the author also spent time with a macrobiotic madelyn@veganculinaryexperience.com.
diet, there are elements that remain in these
recipes, so if you are a macrobiotic vegan, this is a
bonus for you. There is also a wide variety of tastes
Book Review: 500 Vegan Recipes
Authors: Celine Steen and
Authors: Celine Steen and
Joni Marie Newman Joni Marie Newman
Publisher: Fair Winds Press
Copyright: 2009
ISBN: 978‐1‐59233‐403‐2
Price: $19.99
Reviewer: Madelyn Pryor
A well balanced vegan cookbook for cooks of all There is also allergy information for the recipes, so
levels if you are looking for gluten free or soy free
recipes, you can find those at a glance. There is also
When I first noticed 500 Vegan Recipes on the an icon for 30 minute meals, so you can find
shelves, I almost shrugged it off. I have a ton of speedy recipes to make on those frantic weekdays,
vegan cookbooks, but something compelled me to or rushed weekends. The icons make finding
buy this book. I am so thankful that I did, because it recipes that meet your needs quick and easy.
was $19.99 very well spent. This is one of the best,
most comprehensive cookbooks I have ever read It is hard to impress me with vegan cookbooks,
for vegans. because gourmet vegan cooking is something that
comes as naturally to our household as breathing,
Where do I begin to share with you how wonderful but this book made my mouth water, and made me
this cookbook is? There are 20 chapters, one of want to get in the kitchen. There are recipes of all
which is an overview of how to use the cookbook. levels, and even an introduction to ‘What is Vegan
The remaining 19 chapters are crammed with Cooking’ so this would be an ideal gift to give
wonderful vegan recipes, from breakfast, to salads someone who is thinking about going vegan. If you
and salad dressings, to casseroles and savory pies are an experienced vegan cook, this would be
and tarts. For the more adventurous, there are awesome addition to your cookbook library. Either
chapters on candies and bars, sweet and savory way, at less than $20, you can’t afford to not get it.
muffins and even an entire chapter on faux meats!
That was something that truly impressed me. I So with 500 wonderful vegan recipes waiting for
spent time living away at graduate school and I you, with dishes from breakfast to late dessert and
wish I had this book then, because buying everything in between, run out and grab yourself a
packaged mock meat was expensive and not copy now!
always the quality I wanted, but this has recipes for
Apple Sage Fauxage, Independence Day Wieners, Highest recommendations!
and Seitan Bacon Crumbles along with many more!
Yay!
Click on any of the recipes in the index to take you to the relevant recipe. Some recipes will
have large white sections after the instructional portion of them. This is so you need only print
out the ingredient and instructional sections for ease of kitchen use.
Type: Tamale Serves: 24
Time to Prepare: 1 hour
Ingredients
12 cups of masa harina flour
10 cups of water or veggie stock (see below for some tasty stock options, this amount may also vary
depending on the type of masa you use)
1 tbsp. of salt
3 cups of vegetable shortening
Option: 2 cups of oil or margarine instead of the shortening
24 dried corn husks
Water to soak the husks
Option: 1 tbsp. of baking powder
Instructions
Warm the stock.
Combine the masa harina flour with the salt (and optional baking powder.)
Stir the vegetable shortening rapidly until it is creamy.
Pour the stock into the masa mix and stir until it is thoroughly combined.
Beat the moist masa mix into the shortening until you have a paste that will spread with a knife
without breaking apart.
You should end up with a semi‐thick paste.
If you do not have this, you can add more stock in ¼ cup amounts to the mix until you have the right
consistency.
To check the consistency, spread the masa on a corn husk and if it spreads easily while staying
together, you have the right consistency.
Option: If you use oil instead of the shortening, add it to the dry masa and then add the stock to the
masa.
Soak the corn husks for at least two minutes.
Spread masa paste over the top half of a corn husk (the top half is the wide half) about ¼” high.
Spoon a line of your filling of choice in a line on one side of the masa paste.
Roll the tamale from the filling side to the other side.
You will end up with one half of the roll that has masa paste and one that does not.
Fold the half that does not have the masa paste against the tamale, folding it in towards the flap of
the roll.
Repeat this process with the rest of the ingredients.
Steam the tamales for 45 minutes.
If you have a lot of tamales and a tall steamer, you can place the tamales vertically in the steamer.
Stock Options
Boil two dates and a pinch of salt with each cup of water for ten minutes and then remove the dates.
Boil 2 tbsp. of raisins with each cup of water for ten minutes and then remove the dates.
Type: Tamale Serves: 24
Time to Prepare: 1 hour 15 minutes
Ingredients
1 batch of tamale dough (see Basic Tamale recipe)
16 oz. of black beans, rinsed
½ cup of shredded carrot
½ of a red onion, minced
4 cloves of garlic, minced
1 tsp. of chipotle powder
1 tbsp. of mild New Mexico chile powder
1 tsp. of whole cumin seeds
2 tsp. of whole coriander seeds
½ tsp. of salt
1 tsp. of olive oil
Option: 1 cup of soy chorizo
Instructions
Shred the carrot.
Mince the onion and garlic.
Rinse the beans.
Combine all of these together in a bowl.
In a small pan, toast the cumin seeds and coriander seeds on a medium heat in the 1 tsp. of oil until
the coriander seeds start to pop or the cumin seeds turn a deep brown color, whichever comes first.
Mix the chipotle powder, New Mexico chile powder, cumin, coriander, and salt together.
Toss this into the veggie mix.
Prepare the Basic Tamale dough according to the Basic Tamale recipe.
Prepare the Basic Tamale recipe adding about 1 tbsp. of filling per tamale.
Option: Mix the soy chorizo into the veggies after the spices have been added.
Type: Salsa Serves: 1 batch (about 1 ½ cups)
Time to Prepare: 15 minutes
Ingredients
6‐8 cloves of garlic, pan roasted
1 jalapeno, pan roasted
3 Roma tomatoes, pan roasted
1 chipotle in adobo
¼ tsp. of coarse sea salt
½ of a white onion, minced
3 tbsp. of chopped fresh cilantro
8‐10 green olives stuffed with garlic, diced
Juice of 1 lime
Instructions
Pan roast the garlic, jalapeno, and tomatoes.
Deseed and peel the jalapeno and peel the garlic.
In a molcajete, crush the garlic, jalapeno, chipotle, and sea salt into a paste.
Mince the onion.
Press the onion in the molcajete several times, but not to the point where it turns pasty.
Chop the cilantro.
Press the cilantro in the molcajete 2 or 3 times.
Smash the tomatoes in the molcajete until they have completely turned into sauce.
Dice the green olives.
Stir the green olives and lime juice into the salsa, making sure all the ingredients are evenly
distributed throughout the salsa.
The Vegan Culinary Experience – Education, Inspiration, Quality * www.veganculinaryexperience.com
Recipe by Chef Jason Wyrick
Type: Salsa Serves: makes about 1 ½ cups
Time to Prepare: 15 minutes
Ingredients
1 tsp. of whole cumin seeds, toasted
5‐6 tomatillos, pan roasted
1 poblano, pan roasted
½ tsp. of coarse sea salt
½ of a red onion, diced
2 cloves of garlic, minced
3‐4 tbsp. of chopped cilantro
Juice of 1 lime
Instructions
Over a medium heat, toast the cumin seeds until you can smell their aroma coming off the pan
(about 1 minute).
Grind the seeds in a spice grinder or molcajete.
Peel the tomatillos.
Pan roast the tomatillos and poblano.
Dice the poblano, setting half aside.
Take the other half and crush it into a paste in a molcajete along with the cumin and salt.
Dice the onion and mince the garlic.
Rinse the onion.
Lightly crush the onion and garlic in the molcajete, but not to the point where they turn into paste.
Chop the cilantro and crush the cilantro in the molcajete.
Crush the tomatillos, along with the lime juice, until you have a sauce.
Stir everything in the molcajete until it is evenly distributed.
Stir in the remaining diced poblano.
Type: Dessert Serves: 3
Time to Prepare: 10 minutes plus 45 minutes to chill
Ingredients
3 tbsp. water
5 tbsp. brown sugar
2 cups of soy milk
1/3 cup of corn starch
Option: 1.5 tsp. agar agar powder and 1.5 tbsp. of corn starch instead of just corn starch
¾ cup of sugar
1 tsp. vanilla extract
¼ tsp. almond extract
Instructions
In a sauce pan, boil the water.
Add in the brown sugar.
Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook it for five minutes.
Reserve 1 tbsp. and pour the rest into the ramekins.
Quickly slide the syrup around until it coats the bottom of the ramekins.
Blend the other ingredients, including the reserved tbsp. of syrup, until it is a smooth mixture.
Pour this into a pot over a medium heat and whisk it until it thickens.
Pour this into the ramekins and let them chill for at least 45 minutes in the refrigerator.
When you are ready to serve them, tip them upside down and very gently tap the bottom and sides
until the flan releases onto the plate.
Option: If you have a cooking torch, you can further caramelize the syrup that is now on top by
quickly running it over the syrup.