FRANCHE-COMTE FRANCE III IN SEARCH OF AND THE GREAT OUTDOORS ‘Le vrai fromage is taken extremely seriously here’ jucked away in eastern France isanarea of ‘whieh even my fervent Francophile friends had only vaguely heard. "Where gain” they asked. Doubsin Franche-Comté, replied. On ‘the Swiss brder Ahh, one sid wisely they make relly ood cheesethere. ‘That they do,as discov. cred to my stomackis delight. Mountain slopes dated with enormous, red-and-white Montbélard ows and fon- uedinnersat tables dhdtes iustrate the bond with its neighbour: Doubs named after the 430km-long Doulbs river which threads its way through theregion ~isdomi- nated by the Jura mountains, find the terrain isexeellent. foreyelistsand walkers(the | GR5footpath, whichruns | fromtheNetherlandstothe | Mediterranean, hasajoining | Point near Besancon, the re- fion!s hub), What'smore, the ae Feglonlsrichdiot requires | Slice oflife:Francho-Comtéis choice for choose Photalibrary plenty walling ff perfect example ofoliday symbiosis, | lake T the eastlooms the Driving from Geneva | 1460m-high Mont Or andin portisapleasure,asyou | spring the view spicked out {ravelalong Doubs wide, inblassom and flowers. forested plateaux. Aroundus, | Legend hast that God ere- century-old fi tres, clear ated St-Point Lake to punish buelnkesanddeep valleys | theresients ofavillag, areflankedby thepeaksof | Danvauthier now vanished theJura. ‘beneath the water for their ‘Doubs wasone of the origi | inhospitablenature. But nalfBdépariements created | there’ nothing inhospitable in1790.[thasalwayshadit_| about Doubs now as we enjoy awncharacter duetoitsloca- | ahearty lunch oftcal food Gonandits associations with | alakesiderestaurant, {heHoly Roman Bmpite-In- | A wel-lined stomachs deed Franche-Comté(“Free | good preparation forthe Country") wasaprovince of | night ahead in the mount GheEmpireuntilitwasan- side illage of Rochejean, nexedin16%¥by Louis XIV. | few kilometres from Mal- ‘Atthe Restaurant du Fro- | bulsson Norbert Bournezs magebesidethelake in Mal- | theowner of La Petite Duisson,thereareonly four | Echelle arustic restaurant cnirées racket, tartflette, | thatalsoboasts.ateepee and morbiflette tartiflette made | yurt for overnighters. While with Morbiercheese)-and | my companion’sefforts to fondue Putitthis way: you'd stoke the yurts fire go unre- | warded, keep warm in Bourne's Ktehen where he teachesme ow to make Beta elicious Swiss break fast dish of grated potatoes, Franche-Comtéregion of | bacon, onions and, ofcourse, Haute-Sadne, washed down | Comté cheese with injaunor gold from |The Jura region gavethe UhedJura”made from the sav- | world Laughing Cow choose, jgningrape Smoked meats | butleuraifromageis taken ex- anotherlocalforvtrom tremely seriously here. prime pork Morteau Comtéisa subtle whee!” Sausagestothebangerike cheese with hazelnut under- Montbéliara cured intuyés, | tonests production zone smoky wooden chimneys. "| spansthe Jura,Doubsand ‘Malbuisson, 000m above | the Ain inthe Rhéne-Alpes, sealevel presides overSi- | and fellowsa strict prescrip- Point Lake Thisisreallya | tion. Herds madeup of 95 per DroadeningoftheRiver | cent Montbéiardeows and 5 Douhs yetitqualifiesas | percent French Simmental rancob third largest natural | eowsarefedastret dict of hay. Milkistaken to one of 200 fruitieres (fromageries or ccheesemaking houses) within 2Ahours ofcallection for pro- ‘cessing before maturation. Legally, it has tobe aged for at least four months, but typi cally it matures for between sixand 18 months. Another local favourite is Morbier, a stronger cheese with adis- tinctive grey line running through its middle. ‘Back at La Petite Echelle, I trya drop or two ofthe local firewater made from wild gentian and then head tobed. ‘Inthe morning, I drive further up to Les Fourgs, the highest village in Doubs, to stay at Greux des Pierres, runby Catherine Salomon, ‘Salomon is a mushroom ex: pert and Doubsis renowned for the morel variety. We venture to the fields where ‘we also find chanterelies. ‘Then, after arich morel mushroom casserole, I drive tonearby Métabief. This isa ski resort in winter, but I was ‘more interested in its sum- mer role as an official French Cycling Federation ‘mountain-bike centre, ‘Wemeet Greg Noce,apro- tween the villages of Métabiet, LesHopitauxNeufsand Les ‘Longevilles.In the distance, 1 ‘catch a glimpse ofthe Alps. ‘Then, for aspot of retail therapy, [head to Pontarlier. Perched at 837m, itis Alps). Here, Ivisit Estelle ‘Guinet's Pensée de Violets, ‘tea room eum lower shop ‘cum sanctuary. At Chalet de Pontarlier the town's fro- ‘magerie, purchase the largest Comté cheese wheel 1 can find. Tbuy two kilos of {or €1220 (69.50) akiloand cenvisiona north London fon- due party. Ifyouleave Pontarier and climb higher into the Jura, Youtreaen the unofficial re- public ofLe Saugeais.Ithasa prime minister, ID eard, na tional anthem and eurreney, though the UNhas yet to recognise this community af villages, For my lastnight, decide to stay near its “cap. tal’, Montbenoit in the vit lage of Hauterive-la-Fresse Chez Les Colinisa remote chambred'hste with fine views over the dura. Run by (Christiane Colin, iia elt tered, homely afr: Guests rmingle nthe lounge for pre- | dinner aperitisbefore one of | Colin esendary meal. One afternoon, she teaches me | how to make walnut and pamplinjam. I's hol- Gaying ata favourcte aunts | place: ranche-Comté? They rake really good cheese | here, but that only the start ‘MEERA DATTANI | Restaurant du (008838169 34 80; Telachotelf) at 25160 ‘Malbuisson has set menus | omens ta. ‘La Petite Echelle (00 38 881 49.98.40; wnowslapetite echelle.com) at Farale Bournes, Chalet restaurant Alpage, 25970 Rochgjean has Set men from €20 (S15). Staying the nigh casts €8 (85) inthe topo; breakfasts 65 2380) Greux des Pierres (00 33381 69-4495; wwwereuadespierresfr) at a3 rue du Tilt, 25800 Les ‘Fourgs, has doubles from €380 (£292) per week. Métabiet mountain hike centre (00 33. 8149 08 83; ‘wwue.adrenalin-pointcom) at ‘Adrenaline Point, place Xavier hire from €59 (£45) per person. hex Les Colin Chambre Hotes (00.85 381 465165 ‘wuoucheclescolnfp at ‘Maison tes de a Fresse 125650 Hauterivele-Fresse. ‘Doubles rom €140 (5108). ‘For moreinformation visit ‘www: franche-comte.org.