The Labrador Retriever

As a breed the Labrador needs no introduction. Probably one of the most famous, popular and
widespread breeds in the world, they have been a familiar sight for decades by the sides of heads of
state, on advertising and in the ring of honour at Crufts. They were developed in Britain as an all round
gundog. As such they still retain the webbed feet and waterproof double coat of their forebears and their
greatest joy in life is to go for a swim or to dash off and retrieve something for you. They are valued for
superb temperaments and willingness to please which make them as good a family pet as a working
companion.

Things To Consider Before Ownership

Is A Labrador The Right Choice Of Dog For Me? A purebred dog as versatile and talented as the
Labrador Retriever attracts many admirers. Whether you are looking for a puppy for a family pet or house
companion, a show dog, a field dog, or a competition dog, there are many serious factors you should
think about. Do you think you have enough time to devote to your new Labrador? Even a pet Labrador will
require considerable time to train. Of course, a field dog or obedience/agility dog will require hours of daily
attention and special training. The Labrador is a demanding dog who will want to share his whole life with
you, consider your choice carefully.

You can expect a Labrador to live on average between 10 and 12 years though it is very possible that
they can go until there are 15. Do you know where you will be in a decade? You have to plan for a
Labrador to be part of that picture. It is important to win the lifelong battle against the flab - they are a
greedy breed. They are a breed that need a lot of exercise - as a gundog they need the stamina to go all
day and keep to their master's side, always ready to dash off and retrieve.If you are not committed to the
welfare and the whole existence of this energetic, purposeful animal, if in the simplest, most basic
example, you are not willing to walk your dog daily, despite the weather, do not choose a Labrador as a
companion. Ideally, long walks to keep them happy and busy are the best but failing that, some games
such as retrieving or finding which occupy their mind and stop them from getting bored are good. A swim,
especially in the summer is always appreciated but if it is the sea do remember to rinse them off
afterwards so that the salt does not build up in their coat and cause skin problems. Labradors love cars
and generally make very good car campanions. They are not a breed which is prone to carsickness and
enjoy the stimulation that being in the car brings.

Along with all the factors above, there are the usual problems associated with puppies of any breed, one
of these being the damage likely to be sustained by your floors, furniture, flowers etc., What about your
freedom? Holidays or weekend trips will have to be planned, when owning a Labrador you have to take all
this into serious consideration.

Separation Anxiety
A Labrador is not a breed that enjoys being solitary. Their very nature and purpose in life demands close
contact with their 'people' and they find it extremely stressful to be left alone for long periods of time. If it is
absolutely necessary for you to do this then you need to think up some strategies to lessen the stress on
your puppy and you need to be prepared for problems.

- A good idea is to provide an indoor or outdoor kennel available for when you are not there with your
puppy. An outdoor kennel with a run; (Remember your fence will need to be at least five feet high and be
strong enough to contain an adult of up to 40 kilos) would be the least stressful for them but an indoor
cage or crate as long as it is large enough and they are used to it will be adequate enough. A stressed out
Labrador can cause a lot of damage, so it is best to avoid leaving them for long periods of time. If you do
come home to find a disaster area, try and look on it as a learning experience. Punishing your puppy
when you come home will only teach him/her to be frightened of you.

- Leaving toys with your Labrador puppy is something to be treated with caution as Labradors have very
strong jaws and could chew them up and cause themselves damage if they swallow them.

- Leaving them at night can cause problems too. Start as you mean to go on. Sometimes, by putting your
puppy's bed by your bedside cures any separation anxiety but not everyone may wish to do this. If this is
not for you, then putting your puppy in his or her crate/kennel is fine, and you will have to turn a deaf ear
to the yelps for attention. Usually, after a few days, as long as you are firm but kind and provide a routine
that your puppy can rely on, then they will accept going into their crate/kennel and start to treat it as their
refuge and home.

- If you need to leave them in a car then a good strong guard is advisable. Leave them for only a few
minutes at a time to start with and don't make too much of a fuss when you come back to them. A quiet
word of praise if they have been good is sufficient, otherwise ignore any accidents or destruction.

Basic Training
Labradors are a breed, that want to please. As such, they are very willing and eager to be trained and in
fact are a much happier dog if this is so. Also, it is as well to remember that an adult dog can weigh up to
40 kilos, and alot of people are not very comfortable with large breeds. To see a large dog bearing down
on them can be a frightening experience for them and of course your dog will pick this up and his or her
natural curiosity and friendliness will make them want to investigate. One of the endearing traits, it has
been said, that if your Labrador detects a non-dog lover then they will immediately pester them in a vain
effort to convince them how loveable they are! If you want to take your dog out out in public there are
several things he or she must be able to do, especially if you want to let him or her off the lead.

1) Know his or her name and come at all times the instant they are called. Obviously, bribery in the form
of treats is very good. Keep calling them back to you, get them to sit and reward then send them off about
their business again.

2) Walk nicely on the lead without pulling or jumping up at passers by. Use only one word, such as heel,
and when the puppy starts pulling administer a sharp tug and say heel. In time your dog will associate
heel with walking quietly by your side. When this happens, you can move on to heel work - that is, take
the puppy off the lead and concentrate on getting him or her to stay by your side. Say heel, reward with a
pat when this happens and make sure your puppy knows the difference between staying by your side
under control and going off and enjoying him/herself by sending him or her on ahead with a wave.

3) Go down on your word and stay. This takes work and patience but is very satisfying when it happens
and can get you out of a lot of trouble if you need to control your dog from a distance. Once they have
learnt the words down and stay, choose a peaceful environment they are used to which holds no
distractions for them and practice the down and stay from a distance which you can increase gradually.
Never push your puppy too far - if he or she is starting to lose their confidence go back to the previous
step and start from there more slowly.

Remember all puppy training must be short at first, A puppy's concentration span is only a few minutes.
Rewards and kindness always work better than fear. Simple activities such as sitting and knowing their
name and retrieving are best to start with. A well-trained Labrador is a happy one, and you might find you
get the taste for obedience work and competitions in agility.

House Training
House training is obviously a necessity if the dog is to live in the house. An indoor kennel or crate is the
best way, some say, as a dog will not want to soil their own bed and so will try and hang on until you can
release them from the kennel. when this is done, take him/her outside straight away, and wait until he or
she has performed then praise them. Take them to the same place everytime, use the same words and
they will soon associate the place and words with the action. Do the same after they have woken up and
after they have eaten and when you see them running around and sniffing at the floor. Remember that
until they are 6 months old they have little control over their bodily functions and so it is your vigilance,
which is important. If they do have an accident, ignore it, clean it up and put them outside. It is usual for
male entire dogs to mark their territory; the only way to prevent this is to have them castrated after they
are 8 months old and are mature enough. The other advantage of this procedure is that it lessens their
desire to wander!

Diet
Labradors are greedy dogs on the whole and it is more difficult to stop them from eating than not eating. It
is important to give them a balanced diet with plenty of calcium until they have finished growing, which
can be up until there are two in the case of a big male. It is recommended that you buy a good quality dog
food, and you will find that most Pet Stores do a feed to suit your dog from birth to old age. Beware, some
cheaper foods in the supermarkets can cause digestive upsets. If you are going to make up your own
feed they need 30% meat to 70% cereals with a good vitamin .mineral mix, 2% of this should be a
calcium supplement of some kind. It is very important that they get enough calcium in their diet, Labradors
have a massive bone structure and need plenty of calcium during their growth period. Labradors are
prone to worms and the runs because of their greedy nature. Make sure you follow a regular worming
pattern with them and watch carefully for any signs of infestation. Fleas will also give them worms, so de-
flea regularly. It can also be helpful to give them live yoghurt if they have a stomach upset or the runs. If
you want to feed tins, you will also have to give a good mixer or puppy biscuit for their teeth.

Other foods that are appealing are vegetables, such as carrots, broccoli and cauliflower, rice & pasta,
wholemeal bread, croquettes and meat.

Exercise.
Remember, do not force your puppy to do too much exercise on the lead until they are six months old, as
this will damage their growing bones. Just lead training in short bursts and exercise on grass will suffice.

Acquiring A Puppy
The safest way for you to obtain a puppy is to find a reputable breeder. This is also the case even if you
are not looking for a show specimen or a top contender in field work. The novice breeders and pet owners
who advertise at attractive prices in the local newspapers are probably kind enough towards their dogs,
but perhaps they do not have the expertise or facilities to successfully raise these dogs. A insufficient diet
can cause indigestion, weak bones, rickets, poor teeth and other problems. The colour of the Lab you
choose, is strictly a matter of personal choice. While no importance is placed on colour in the breed, only
the three colours - yellow, black and chocolate - are recognised as true Labradors.

There should be two important documents your breeder should give to you, and these are the pup's
pedigree and registration papers. The breeder should register the litter and each pup with the Kennel
Club, and it is necessary for you to have all the paperwork if you plan on showing or breeding in the
future. It is best that you know the breeder's intentions on which type of registration they will obtain for
your puppy. There are limited registrations which may prohibit the dog from being shown or from
competing in non-conformation trials such as Working or Agility if the breeder feels that the pup is not of
sufficient quality to do so. There is also a type of registration that will permit the dog in non-conformation
competition only.

Your breeder should always be available for you, before and after you receive your puppy, and be willing
to take your puppy back at any time if your circumstances were to change. They should be a reliable
source of help as you and your puppy adjust to life together. By visiting litters in action you will be able to
get a firsthand look as the puppy 'pack' and get to know what each of the pup's individual personality is
like, you might have found a particular one that appeals to you. If you haven't found the puppy of your
dreams, observe other pups in other litters, as this will help you learn and recognise certain behaviour,
which will give you a good indication as to the personality of the pup. Some pups may be leaders, some
less outgoing, some may be confident, others shy, playful, friendly, aggressive, etc.,

When you finally acquire your new puppy, he or she should be examined by your vet as soon as you buy
him or her. Your vet will be able to tell you all about any possible physical defects as well as start your
puppy on a vaccination programme. Your home should also have been prepared for your new puppy's
arrival. Anything potentially dangerous should be moved out of reach.

Introducing Your Puppy To Your Family

Everyone in the family will want to meet your new puppy, but it is probably best to make the introduction
low-key so as not to overwhelm your puppy. He will already be apprehensive as it will be the first time he
or she has been separated from his mother and the breeder. The ride home in the car is probably the first
time your puppy has been in a car, and this might have made him uneasy also. It's important for your
puppy to have human contact, as at this stage an instant connection between your pup and his human
family will be formed. Gentle soothing words and stroking will also help console your puppy, as well as
putting them down and letting them explore his new home. (Under your watchful eye of course) Each
family member should spend some time with your puppy, let your puppy sniff at their hands and stroke
him or her gently. Puppies need human attention and need to be touched - this is how to form an
immediate bond.

Puppy Checklist
Here is a list of things that you will probably need for your new Labrador puppy.

- A crate

- Stainless steel water & food bowls. (These cannot be chewed)

- A light, thin, nylon lead and collar suitable for a puppy.

- Kongs, tennis balls etc., Whatever toys you buy, make sure they are fun, safe, durable and washable.
You will need to teach your puppy that its toys are the best things to chew on, not the sofa or your
furniture!

- Food. Select a high quality food, your breeder may have given you a few weeks supply so that you can
continue it's normal feed, gradually changing to your chosen food if applicable.

- Bedding. The choice is up to you, but remember it may well end up being chewed.

- An I.D tag. (Micro-chipping is also a very good idea- speak to your vet about this)

- A good quality brush to groom your puppy.

- Poop Scooper and bags

- Some new towels as your old ones will be used for drying / cleaning your new pup :)

- Toothbrush (good to start this really early so he accepts it as normal)

- Baby Wipes - Usefull for cleaning all over your new puppy

- Big supply of Kitchen Roll - Handy for wiping floor from waterworks problems, mopping up drinking
water, wiping muzzles etc

- You can now buy absorbent pads from most large pet stores, to absorb the odd little toilet accident your
puppy may have.

It is also a good idea to get your puppy insured. Have fun with your new puppy, with your love, care and
attention he or she will becoming a loving member of your family.

- A good camera and lots of film (If not digital) and batteries

Now go and read the follow up article in this series -> Puppy Guide Part II

We would like to thank Stephanie Godwin for some of the original material used in this article.

Labrador Puppy Guide Part 2

Important! This advice cannot take into account your individual circumstances, or your dog's personality,
training level and temperament. Watch for any changes in his behaviour and seek expert advice
immediately if you are worried.

1. Before you get your pup, thoroughly check the house for "dog's eye view" hazards. (Doing this on your
hands and knees feels silly but works!)
2. A movable "baby gate" is useful for controlling your puppy's access to different rooms in the house, or
the stairs.

3. Your dog's toys must be too large for him to swallow, or to get stuck in his throat. Check them regularly
as he gets older, replacing outgrown toys with bigger ones.

4. Water barrels and garden ponds must be safely covered to make them inaccessible to your pup. He
could drown if not. (Please make sure your pup cannot get trapped underneath this cover, he will be
unable to get out)

5. Check your garden for "escape hatches" in fences and gates, or for sharp objects like stakes. Re-site
plants like Lupins which will cause stomach upset and bowel irritation if chewed; a garden centre, chemist
or library will fill you in about other risky varieties.

6. Put house plants out of reach - some are very irritant if chewed e.g. Diffenbachsia (Dumb Cane) where
the sap causes numbness in the tongue and throat.

7. Make sure all cleaning materials are safely stored away - nearly all contain some sort of toxic
substance.

8. If you leave shoes about a pup will chew them; he also cannot tell the difference between an "old"
slipper given to him to play with and your newest "fluffies".

9. Many everyday objects can be hazardous - plastic bags, rubber bands, string, paper clips and pens are
potential dangers. PUT THEM AWAY. Be wary of children's toys, jewellery (earrings especially), your
needlework and knitting boxes. Many an anxious time is spent waiting to see if pup passes the
tiddlywinks/earrings/buttons/dinky toy wheels etc you thought he swallowed yesterday.

10. Books - keep well out of reach of pup! Books can be costly to replace - especially if they are not your
own. Anyway the dog that swallowed the dictionary still didn't make P.M.!

11. Many puppies find wires irresistible but accidents can be fatal. Keep telephone and electrical wires out
of the way and pull out or switch off plugs when not in use.

12. If your puppy is a determined chewer, treat immovable hazards or furniture with a "Stop Chew"
repellent spray, which works by making things taste nasty. Various brands are available in pet shops, and
if one fails another may not.

13. Be aware of dangling wires, and choke chains or leads hanging on hooks or door knobs where a pup
could jump up and get his head and neck tangled in them. He could choke to death while you are out - it
has happened!

14. Guard all fires, stoves, cookers etc. Ban the dog from the kitchen when you are cooking; paws can get
under foot or tails can be trodden on with nasty consequences for both dog and human.

15. If you have a tile or linoleum floor where pup's water bowl stands, put the bowl on a tray, mat or towel.
Water splashed onto this kind of flooring makes it dangerously slippery, especially for anyone carrying hot
pans.

16. When you bring him home, your puppy may never have heard a vacuum cleaner, washer or TV,
especially if his litter was housed outside. Introduce him to these gradually. If he seems frightened don't
make a lot of fuss - he may mistake your comforting "sweet nothings" for praise, and think his fear is the
way to you want him to behave. (Sounds daft - but it happens!) Try for the "nursing sister approach" -
sympathetic but firm!

17. The best age to socialise your puppy is 7 to 18/20 weeks. Take advantage of this to acquaint him
(gradually!) with as many different experiences as possible. If this clashes with his inoculation quarantine
period, you may be able to carry him around or take him out in the car. Ask your vet.

18. Children move and act more unpredictably than adults. All dogs meet children, e.g. when out for a
walk, so it is helpful to get him used to them while he is young. If children or grand-children might be
added to the family later on in his lifetime this is especially important. (It may seem unlikely, but add
fifteen years to the family's present ages and think hard!)
Neighbours' children often like to visit a new puppy, or you may be able to take him to socialisation
classes at a local vets or dog training club

HOW TO TOILET TRAIN YOUR PUPPY OR DOG

Begin to house train your puppy or dog the day you bring him home. Before you start, choose a word to
use as a command for relieving himself. It doesn't matter which word, but bear in mind that you may have
to say it in public! "Be clean" is polite enough for most company, or use "hurry up" if you want to be more
subtle.

Be patient and expect him to make mistakes. If you don't want to find them everywhere, fit baby gates to
limit his movements to a small part of the house at first. As with all dog training, you should use reward
based methods that concentrate on the right behaviour rather than punishment based ones which only
look at mistakes.

· Your puppy will probably need to relieve himself after a meal, after a sleep and after (or during) a game.
Watch him and learn the body language which means he needs to go out - he may sniff the floor, seem
distracted, or wander about looking for a spot. This can be subtle, and often doesn't give you more than a
couple of seconds warning: stay alert.

· At these times take him straight outside and (most importantly) stay out with him. When he naturally
starts to wee, chant your chosen command in an encouraging tone. When he has finished praise him as
much as you can. Let him know what a clever dog he is - lots of hugs, love, tickles, even food if you like.

· Don't try to use your word as a command at first, wait until you are sure your dog has made the
connection between the word and the deed. Then you can take him out and say "hurry up" (or whatever)
to encourage him. This is a very useful trick, especially if you are leaving him at home for a short time or
taking him on a long car journey.

· If you see your puppy weeing indoors say loudly, but not shouting "NO" as suddenly as possible. Aim to
startle him rather than scold, so that all the muscles in his body tighten and he stops mid-stream. Get him
outside as fast as possible and wait with him till he finishes so you can praise him when he has done.
This may take a while so don't give up too soon.

· If you don't catch your dog in the act, clean up accidents without comment. This is difficult when it's your
carpet yet again, but don't shout, smack, rub his nose in it, or point to the spot and snarl; he will not know
why you are angry.

· Your puppy or dog knows you ARE angry (this is why he acts as if he is feeling guilty) but he connects
your anger with what he is doing now, not what he did an hour (or even five minutes) ago. By forcing a
connection between your anger and faeces or urine you may teach him to hide, or even eat, his mess to
keep it out of your way. He will certainly not be keen to "perform" in front of you when you take him in the
garden.

· These routines also apply if your puppy or dog is wet or dirty overnight. Telling him off when he comes
to greet you can make him confused, stressed and more likely to make a mess. Greet him, let him out,
and clear up without comment.

· Disinfectant leaves a tangy, urine-like (to a dog) smell; use biological soap powder to clean your floor.
Better still, your pet shop will have cleaning preparations which are designed to break down the chemicals
in urine so you don't get any lingering aromas. These are particularly useful if he develops a 'favourite'
indoor spot, since smell is one of the things which keeps him coming back to it. A plastic sheet or opened
up carrier bag spread under the carpet at his favourite spot will stop the urine soaking into or staining your
floorboards.

· If the weather allows, leave the door open at first. If your puppy or dog goes out by himself watch him;
then follow him out and praise him (outside) immediately he finishes. If you can't leave the door open,
take him out whenever he makes a move towards the door. Do it immediately, even if he picks the most
exciting moment in your favourite TV show. As before watch, follow, and praise.

· When you are confident his training is complete, you can begin to (very) gradually reduce the amount of
praise you give, and then to let him go out alone.

 1. House training can be a doddle or a struggle. Most pups will try to be clean, so take him to his spot
after his meal, a game or a sleep, or when he moves towards the door. Be observant; you will soon learn
when pup "feels the need" - certain actions, certain times of day etc. Take him outside (don't send him on
his own at first, you need to be there to praise him after he performs). Avoid getting cross over mistakes,
and NEVER rub his nose in it.

2. Teach your dog to empty his bladder or bowel on command by gently repeating key words like "be
clean" (or "hurry up" if you want to be more subtle!) as he does so naturally, praising him when he has
finished. He will soon associate the word with the action - once he does you can make sure he uses the
garden before you go out and avoid him fouling public areas or needing a "pit stop" on the motor way.

3. Even if your dog has used your garden you should always carry a poop scoop or plastic bag just in
case, and USE IT! Local bylaws are in effect in most places and they apply to YOU and YOUR DOG.
Whether bylaws are there or not, it's the responsible thing to do.

HOW TO CRATE TRAIN YOUR DOG

· The crate should be big enough for your dog to stand up, turn round and stretch out when lying down. If
he is a puppy, allow for growth.

· To begin with you will need to leave the crate set up all the time. Later you may prefer not to, and some
crates fold flat for easy storage when not in use.

· When left in the crate your dog should have a toy or chew bone to keep him occupied when awake, soft
bedding to sleep on, and a drink of water. A young dog can also be left with newspaper if you use it for
toilet training.

· Feed the dog in the crate every day, with the door open. This is an easy way to get him to like it!

· Set the crate up in a quiet corner, and put the dog's bed into it. At this stage, leave the door pinned open
so that the dog is never fastened in by mistake and never gets stressed.
· Soon the dog should happily use the crate voluntarily. When you reach this stage, (NOT BEFORE) wait
until he goes in for a sleep, then close the door. Stay in the room, and let him out as he starts to wake up.

· When your dog is used to this routine, leave him for a minute after he wakes up, with you still in the
room. Gradually (over about a week) increase the time you can do this. If your dog gets distressed,
reassure him briefly but firmly and shorten the time on the next attempt. Don't make a big fuss - sweet
nothings and lots of attention can make him think you're praising him for being distressed, and he'll do it
all the more. Aim for the "nursing sister" approach when she comes to give you a big injection,
sympathetic but business like!

· When you can leave the dog like this, leave the room for a few minutes but stay in the house. Again,
gradually increase the time you are out of sight till you can put the dog into his crate when you go
shopping.

· Your dog should never be left in a crate for more than a couple of hours.

1. House training can be a doddle or a struggle. Most pups will try to be clean, so take him to his spot
after his meal, a game or a sleep, or when he moves towards the door. Be observant; you will soon learn
when pup "feels the need" - certain actions, certain times of day etc. Take him outside (don't send him on
his own at first, you need to be there to praise him after he performs). Avoid getting cross over mistakes,
and NEVER rub his nose in it.

2. Teach your dog to empty his bladder or bowel on command by gently repeating key words like "be
clean" (or "hurry up" if you want to be more subtle!) as he does so naturally, praising him when he has
finished. He will soon associate the word with the action - once he does you can make sure he uses the
garden before you go out and avoid him fouling public areas or needing a "pit stop" on the motor way.

3. Even if your dog has used your garden you should always carry a poop scoop or plastic bag just in
case, and USE IT! Local bylaws are in effect in most places and they apply to YOU and YOUR DOG.
Whether bylaws are there or not, it's the responsible thing to do.

4. Elementary obedience starts on the day you bring your pup home. ALWAYS USE FUN NOT FORCE,
and persuade the kids that tricks come after basic training. Your dog needs to know his name, "no",
"come", and "sit" and later "down", "stay", and "heel". A few place words can be useful too - "in the car",
"on your bed". To stop him getting confused, keep your commands simple and make sure everyone in the
family uses the same words in the same way. Keep training sessions short, teach one thing at a time and
use plenty of rewards - toys, titbits or praise. If you don't know how, go to a dog training club which will
teach both of you.

5. Never allow your pet to become a nuisance. Not everyone loves dogs - some could regard your pet as
an "affliction" not with "affection"! You know he's being friendly, but other people may be afraid of his
"bouncing". You go out in your dog walking clothes, but others may not want footprints on their best
jacket. If in doubt, keep him on a lead.

6. Make sure your dog has a collar with an ID disc attached. Not only is this common sense but it is also
required by law.

7. Road safety with a dog is essential. Teach yourself (yet again), your children and your dog the Green
Cross Code. Your dog should automatically stop whenever he reaches a kerb and not move on until you
give permission.

8. Form habits that will last a lifetime by getting him used to being handled and brushed while he is still
young. Grooming should always include a check of ears, eyes, teeth, gums, claws and skin as well as fur.
You may also wish to clean his teeth with a soft toothbrush and water or proprietary (dog) toothpaste.
Know his body and what is normal for him. Look for signs of injuries or infections, and for foreign bodies
(moving or otherwise!) As well as keeping you aware of potential problems, this helps your dog to be
relaxed and unafraid during veterinary examinations.

9. Keep your dog fit not fat! A growing puppy needs plenty of food but once he is adult he no longer needs
the calories that were being used for growth and he may need to eat less. Neutering may also alter his
metabolism and call for a further reduction of food. Remember that the amounts on the dog food packet
are just a guide - experiment a little with the amount until you find what suits your dog.

10. Be careful about what your dog eats and be just as watchful as to what comes out the other end.
Check that your dog does not have an upset stomach due to the family's left-over casserole or a "bug"
needing veterinary treatment.

11. Take your puppy to the vet for a check up and to arrange worming and vaccination programmes as
soon as possible after bringing him home. Follow this up by remembering his yearly booster injections
and - most important - remember to worm him at least twice a year.

WHY DO DOGS RUN AWAY?

If you look at this problem from the dogs' point of view running away is very rewarding - games with other
dogs, a nice game of chase with you and lots of exercise! Coming back to you is just the opposite as he is
instantly in trouble.
Even when he hasn't run away, you are probably like many other dog owners - you let him 'do his own
thing' while he is off lead, and only call him back to you when you want to avoid something, or when it's
time to put the lead on and go home. This doesn't encourage him to want to come back to you either,
since it means fun time is over.
So what's the answer?

Make coming to you more rewarding than running off.

Sounds simple, doesn't it?

HOW SHOULD YOU CALL YOUR DOG?

By "recall" or "recall command" we mean a word or a whistle, whichever you prefer to use. Don't just use
his name as this gets his attention but doesn't tell him what to do.
Try to make your command sound the same every time, as many dogs listen to your tone rather than the
word you use. (If you don't believe this, say any old word - like "box" - to your dog next time you want him
to sit. If you say it in the same way you usually say "sit", most dogs will sit.) A desperate scream of "oh no,
you bad dog, get back here" is not the same command as the calm and encouraging "Ben, come" you
use at the training club. It is also important that all members of the family call your dog in the same way,
so hold a family meeting and make sure you do.

STAGE ONE - THE BASICS OF TEACHING YOUR DOG TO COME

· Your dog will not come when he is out, if he doesn't come at home. Start there, where you have no
traffic or other dogs to worry about if he ignores you.

· Walk him only on the lead for a while. If he pulls, a head collar will give you more control. (Ask your pet
shop.)
· Put some hard titbits in a small plastic box or bottle, so you can rattle them. Keep them in your pocket
around the house, and three or four (random) times a day, rattle the pot. Call the dog to you at the same
time, and give him lots of praise and a titbit when he arrives. Get everyone in the family to do the same.
(The dog may look at you as if you're mad at first, especially if you wake him up, but stick to it! That
rattling sound will soon mean food.)

· Do this when you are in the same room at first, then try from another room so he has to come and find
you. Make sure it's a fun game with lots of love and praise when he does.

· Don't give him any food at any time (titbits or meals) unless he has responded to a recall command first.
Always recall him to have his lead put on, to be groomed or patted or anything else nice. Give lots of
praise and a titbit when he comes. (All this starts him thinking that coming when called is a good thing.)

· Always take him out when he's hungry, preferably just before a meal, as this makes the titbits more
tempting. Take plenty of titbits with you in your usual pot. (Cut his meals down to allow for this - we don't
want the blame if he gets overweight! It doesn't matter if he gets, say, a third of his daily food like this at
first; you can taper it off later.)

Play the calling game when you're out - even though he's on a lead. Call him every few hundred yards,
praise him, feed him, play with him - make a big game of it. Do this on the street as well as where you
normally let him off lead. (This should make him start keeping one eye on you all the time.)

MAKING HIM WORK HARDER

 As he learns the game and responds every time, feed him only for progressively quicker
responses. If you have to leap up and down or call several times, praise him quietly for coming
but that's all. He should soon respond very quickly.
Don't go to the next stage until he comes INSTANTLY, EVERY TIME at home or out on a lead.

STAGE TWO - TEACHING YOUR DOG TO COME BACK WHEN HE IS OFF THE LEAD

 At first only let him off the lead when you can't see any other dogs, joggers or whatever tempts
him to run away.
 Stick to the same rules - call him back for a game and a titbit every few hundred yards, reward
quick responses. If you normally only call him when another dog comes along, he may look for
one when you first call, but when he sees nothing is there he will come.
 Sometimes when you call him, put him on the lead for a few yards, sit him, reward him and let
him off again. (You are showing him that even coming back to put his lead on is not the end of his
fun.)
 If another dog does come along, call him in exactly the same way you normally do, reward him,
put him on the lead, and try to keep his attention by offering titbits or talking to him. Make silly
noises if you have to, but keep his attention on you.
 If he pulls towards the other dog tell him to sit as it goes past. Keep his eyes on you (and a titbit)
until it's gone, give him the food and lots of praise, then let him off for another run. Do this every
time, if only for a minute, even if you were just about to go home when the other dog arrived.
 If he does run away, DON'T TELL HIM OFF. You have put in a lot of work to make coming back
to you a positive experience and you don't want to waste it. Do anything to get his attention - call
him and rattle your food, bounce a ball, offer to throw a stick, run the other way, lay on the floor
and hide your face, make funny noises (buzzing often does the trick). Don't worry about what
other people think - they may have been there!
 Try not to chase your dog. If circumstances like a busy road mean you have to rugby tackle him
to the ground, put him on the lead without a word. (Don't praise or scold him.)
  If he does actually come, but at the very last minute, praise him gently.
 If he comes back voluntarily, go mad with enthusiastic praise.
 If he runs away more than once or starts to slip in his responses go back a stage IMMEDIATELY.
Don't let him get in the habit of making mistakes.

STAGE THREE - MAKING SURE YOUR DOG ALWAYS COMES BACK

 Once y o ur dog is responding to you every time you call, gradually cut back on the titbits, though
you should always give them occasionally to keep him keen. It works like a slot machine - he
comes back just in case this time pays!
 If his recall starts to slow, increase the frequency of titbits every time for a while. You should, of
course, ALWAYS praise your dog with kind words and a pat for coming back; NEVER take his
obedience for granted.
 Every time you go for an "off lead" walk, remember to put him on the lead for a few paces, then
let him off again. You can reduce it to once per walk once he is under control, but don't do it at the
same place every time.

PROBLEMS

My dog doesn't like titbits

If the attraction of titbits doesn't last, or your dog isn't motivated at all by food, experiment to see what
reward he does like. A squeaky toy or bouncy ball often gets his attention and a quick game with it can
become part of your praise. Vary the reward if nothing works consistently, so it's always worth him coming
to check.

This method seems like very hard work

It can be. In addition, although some dogs respond quickly, others take longer. However, it is hardest
work at the beginning and it generally works very well. In the long term, it is easier than living with a dog
which runs away.

I've given this a fair trial but it doesn't seem to help

No dog training method works 100% with every dog, and there are always other ways to tackle any
problem. Some dogs that will not return to you will go down on command so you can collect them, others
are helped by using a running line or two leads (you unclip one, he thinks he's free, you still have a line to
encourage him back to you).

Your dog, common sense and the law

1. Good socialisation is the key to having a dog you are proud to take anywhere. The best age for
socialisation is thought to be 7 to 18/20 weeks. If this coincides with his inoculation quarantine, discuss a
compromise with your vet. Your puppy can usually be carried (if he is small enough!) or taken out in the
car, even when in quarantine.

2. Early experience is rarely wasted. Even if you usually travel in a car, take him on a bus and a train.
Shopping gets him used to crowds. Practise sitting him quietly in shops which admit him. Don't abandon
him outside the others - get the shopping on another trip.

3. In the UK , the Control of Dogs Order 1992 requires that your name and address must be inscribed on
or attached to your dog's collar when he is in a public place, even if he is also tattooed or micro-chipped.
This is a sensible precaution wherever you live.
4. The owner of any dog which causes damage or injury (e.g. biting or causing an accident by running
onto the road) may have to pay compensation. Your household insurance might cover this (check before
you need it!), or you can probably take out canine third party insurance.

5. In the UK , the Dangerous Dogs Act 1990 makes it an offence for any kind of dog to be "dangerously
out of control" in a public place. This applies if someone thinks your dog "may cause injury" as well as if
he actually does so; you can be prosecuted even if no injuries are caused.

6. Check in advance if dogs are allowed when going somewhere new.

7. Make sure you know and obey the local bylaws. Even where bylaws are not in force you should not
allow your pet to foul in public places. Carry a "poop scoop" or plastic bag and clear up after your dog.

Out with your dog on foot

8. Buy a suitable collar and lead for your dog and USE THEM! "My dog never runs away" means "he
hasn't yet".

9. Extending leads are ideal for walking on open areas where it's not safe to let your dog run totally free.
They're not suitable in crowds unless you want to tie up the locals!! Use them shortened and on "lock" on
the pavement too - if your dog is frightened or startled a long lead allows him to run onto the road before
you can stop him.

10. If your dog goes for a pull instead of a walk, try a training class.

11. A head collar or anti-pull harness may help you to control your dog more easily than a traditional collar
round the neck. If this sounds right for you, get advice from a training club or Canine Advice Life Line
(Choose "CALL" below for more details).

Your dog and running free

12. NEVER let your dog off the lead unless there's a fence between you and near-by traffic. Open areas
of grass look tempting but can be dangerous if your dog spots a friend across the road, or if he doesn't
look where he's going when playing or following a scent.

13. Parks may be the only place in town to let your dog run free, but try to avoid children's play areas and
sports fields.

14. The country can be fun for your dog but keep him on a lead in farming areas. It's obvious not to let
him chase animals, but running through growing crops can also do expensive damage.

Out with your dog on public transport

15. Your dog should be on a lead or in a suitable travelling box. Keep him on the floor or on your lap and
not on the seats, even in the box.
16. Expect to pay half fare in most places.

Your dog and the car

17. Most dogs love riding in the car, but it's not a replacement for walks!

18. Before you set off, check that your car breakdown/"get you home" policy includes the dog.

19. DOGS LEFT IN CARS, EVEN FOR VERY SHORT PERIODS, DO DIE. You know how hot your car
feels when you get in, even on quite a mild day - your dog is trapped in that heat when you leave him.
Ideally you shouldn't leave him alone in your car at all. If you must do so in an emergency, make sure it is
well ventilated. Parking in the shade is not enough - shade moves when the sun does, so use a window
"grid ventilator" (available from most pet shops). Even better, use two or more and create a through draft.

20. Don't let your dog travel with his head out of the window - he may get grit in his eyes or even jump
out! If you want fresh air "grid ventilators" can be used in the windows when travelling along too.

21. In an accident your dog will be thrown about inside the car. He may hurt himself, or land on and injure
you or your passengers. In estate cars your dog should travel in the back, behind a dog gate or in a wire
crate. In saloons consider fitting a dog "seat belt" harness, or sit him in the front seat well, between your
passenger's feet.

22. Your dog should always wear his collar and name tag in the car - he may get out and run off,
especially if there is an accident.

23. Don't let your dog leap out of the car as soon as you open the door. Teach him to wait until his lead is
on and you tell him it's OK to come.