Professional Documents
Culture Documents
and Finishing
VESTEX
Srini Venkataraman
Dr. Sandeep Khatua
March 2006
Bureau Veritas
Consumer Products Services
For the benefit of business and people
Summary 1) Preparatory Process and
Their Importance
2) Dyeing
3) Dyeing Techniques
4) Printing
5) Dyeing / Printing Problems
and Remedies
6) Finishing
2
1
Preparatory Process
and Their Important
3
1 Preparation Objectives
Rope Method
8 Two Types:
1) Tension Mercerization
» The purpose of mercerization is to increase luster of
Cotton fibers
» The fiber untwists and swells, lumen becomes rounder in
cross-section and it gains luster. Dye affinity and chemical
reactivity increase. Fabric becomes stronger and
smoother.
2) Slack Mercerization
» Not as lustrous as tension method
» Elongation and recovery properties improve and thus have
been used to produce comfort stretch garments and fabric
bandages, which need to conform to body shapes.
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2 Dyeing
Fabric
Unfixed Surface
Rinse to Remove Surface Dye Dye Removed
8 Stock Dyeing
• Masses of loose fibers
are placed in large drums
into which dye is pumped
and circulated.
• Tweed fabrics with a
heather-like color effect
such as Harris tweed is
done using this method.
8 Yarn Dyeing
• Yarns are immersed into a
dyebath prior to being made into
fabric.
• Loosely wound hanks can be
dyed (skein dyeing),
• Yarns wound into small tubes
called package can be dyed
(package dyeing), or
• The entire warp beam can be
immersed into dyebath (beam
dyeing).
8 Beam Dyeing
• Both yarn and fabric can be dyed by this process
• Dyeing is done on
completed garments.
• Garments are placed in
a nylon bag and placed
in large tubs containing
dye bath.
• Garments having
differential shrinkage
among various
components may have
difficulty being dyed by
this method.
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3 Dyeing Techniques Reactive
8 Reactive Dyeing
• The reactive dyes are water-soluble anionic dyes, which
react with hydroxyl groups of cellulose to become
covalently bonded to the fiber
• The chemical reaction between a reactive dye and a
cellulose fiber takes place in the presence of a base and
can be summarized as follows
Dyestuff Properties
Perspiratio
Ease of
Dyes Cost Washfastness Lightfastness Crockfastness n
Application
Fastness
Average
Acid Average Fair - Good Good Good Good
-
Average Average –
Basic Poor – Good Poor – Good Fair – Good Fair – Good
+ Fairly Difficult
Disperse Average Fairly Hard Good Good Fair – Good Fair – Good
Average Good –
Average –
Reactive Excellent Good Fair – Good Fair – Good
+ Fairly Difficult
(if soaped)
8 Union Dyeing
• In union dyeing, the components of a blend are dyed
with the same shade to obtain a solid color.
• Dyes must be carefully selected and properly applied
to ensure color uniformity.
• Union dyeing can be applied by two methods: One-
bath (single dye) and Two-bath (double dye) methods.
• Polyester/Cotton intimate blends are often dyed with
these methods.
• Two-bath method offers better result on
Polyester/Cotton blends compared to One-bath
method.
• One-bath method is cheaper than Two-bath method.
8 Cross Dyeing
• The method of obtaining a multi-color effect on a blend
is referred to as Cross-Dyeing.
• In cross dyeing, a fabric containing two or more fiber
types or fiber variants is purposely dyed so that each
fiber type or variant accepts a different type of dye and
becomes a different color.
• The end product depends on the fiber arrangement in
the fabric. It may be a check, a plaid, a tweed, a stripe, a
muted color, a heather effect, or some other design.
8 Advantages
• Pigment coloration is economical because of limited
number of processing steps.
• Blends can be dyed a uniform shade with one operation
applicable to all fibers.
• Pigment coloration has an extensive color range and
high light fastness.
• Pigment coloration has satisfactory washfastness.
8 The possibility of combining dyeing and finishing
exists with pigment coloration. Products must be
selected so that finish and binder react under
same conditions of pH and/or temperature.
8 Disadvantages
• Heavy shades crock badly. Light shades may wet crock.
• Pigment coloration is normally applied by padding.
• Pigment adversely affects hand. The large amount of binder
required may stiffen fabric. This is most noticeable on very
thin fabrics.
• Pigment coloration may have sticking or buildup on pad
rolls.
• Migration (uneven coloration) may occur if drying is variable
or pickup is high.
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4 Printing
8 Screen Printing
• This printing involves coating of a screen fabric (made
of nylon, polyester, or metal tightly mounted on a
wooden or metal frame) with an opaque nonporous film
with the design areas cut out of it.
• The screen is placed on top of the fabric, print paste is
poured into the frame and forced through the mesh.
• The dye can then pass through the fine mesh and coat
the fabric only in the areas of the design.
• Each color requires its own screen and separate
application of color. Also each color of the design
must be precisely located on the screen so that it
becomes properly placed and printed.
8 Screen Printing
• Types of Screen Printing Include:
» Flatbed Screen - Hand or Automatic
» Rotary Screen
8 Roller Printing
• In this printing method, the design is put onto fabric
by copper engraved rollers or cylinders.
• A separate engraved roller is required for each color.
• Copper rollers can be engraved with very fine
delicate designs.
• The size of engraved cylinders is governed by the
printing machine and the design.
Ease Waste
Curing of Opacity Hand Cost Ink
Printing Recovery
Low- Medium - Moderate -
Plastisol Easy Fair Excellent
High Heavy High
Low - Low -
Water-based Hard Easy Soft Fair
Medium Moderate
Plastisol Water-based
T-shirts, light colored Excellent Excellent
T-shirts, dark colored Good Poor
Nylon Jackets Good Fair
Towels Poor Excellent
Yardage Poor Excellent
8 Heat-Transfer Printing
• This is also called thermal transfer printing.
In this method the design is first printed on
paper with printing inks containing
disperse dyes.
• The printed paper (called transfer paper) is
placed on the fabric and passed through
heat-transfer printing machine at about
400°F. Under this temperature, the dye on
the paper sublimates and is transferred
onto the fabric.
• Disperse dyes is the only class of dyes that
can be sublimated and used for this
method of printing.
8 Direct Print
• Also called application
print. Design is printed
directly onto a white
cloth or a previously
dyed fabric. They are
the most popular print
types.
8 Discharge Print
• Fabrics are dyed a solid color prior to printing. When printing is
done, the design is applied by screen or roller with a chemical which
removes the color of the originally dyed fabric. Discharge prints can
be made with rollers and screen methods. They are not widely used
because production costs are high.
8 Resist Print
• It involves a two step procedure: (1) printing a pattern design
on a white fabric with a chemical that will prevent penetration
of dyes; and (2) piece dyeing the fabric. The result is a dyed
background with a white patterned area.
8 Blotch Prints
• It is one in which the
background color is
created by printing rather
than dyeing. The ground
and pattern design colors
are printed onto a white
cloth. One of the
problems with blotch
prints is that large
background color areas of
the print are not covered
with the full depth of
color.
8 Warp Prints
• This involves printing
the warp yarns of a
fabric before weaving.
The fabric is woven
with a solid color
filling, usually white.
The result is a soft,
shadowed, blurred
design on the fabric.
These prints are found
on high quality, costly
fabrics because it
requires careful,
meticulous labor.
8 Flock Prints
• Tiny particles of fiber are
made to adhere to a fabric
surface in conformance
to a particular design.
Rayon and nylon fibers
are typically used for
flocking. The ability of
flocked fibers to
withstand dry cleaning
and/or laundry depends
on the adhesive.
Adhesives with excellent
fastness to cleaning
processes are used.
8 Burn-out Prints
• This involves printing
with a chemical that will
destroy the fiber in the
patterned design print
area. In fabrics that are
made with blended
yarns, the burn-out
chemical will destroy
one fiber and leave the
other undamaged.
Unusual and interesting
fabrics can be created
by this method.
8 Duplex Prints
• These are fabrics in
which both sides of the
fabric are printed.
They are made to
imitate more costly
woven yarn-dyed
design effects such as
stripes, checks and
plaids. They are rarely
used because of the
high cost of printing
both sides of a fabric.
8 Pigment Print
• They are direct prints made with pigments. The process
is called dry printing as distinguished from wet (dye)
printing. The pigment print area will be slightly stiffer
and bit thicker than the non-print area. They are the
least costly type of print to produce.
8 Engineered Prints
• These are prints that have two or more distinct
designs, each located in separate areas of the fabric
and each designed to become a specific part of a
garment. Engineered prints include fabrics whose
designs are especially pre-established topermit
making a garment in a particular stylized effect.
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5 Dyeing and Printing Problems
Migration The transfer of color from one area of the fabric to another.
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6 Finishing
Loomstate Fabrics
8 Key Features
• Superior Stain, Water, And Oil Repellency
• Resists Wrinkles
• Breathable Fabric
• Preserves Original Hand
• Easy Care
• Durable Performance
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