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risk."
Introduction
NOTE: Units used are metric and amounts in US dollars, unless specified
otherwise.
For hobbyists it is possible to build a gas fired metal melting furnace for
small amounts (50..300 grams) with the following features:
History
I started long ago in 1973. I used the bottom third of a 200 liter oil drum,
filled it with sand and left a hole in the sand of about 20 cm wide and
deep, put some ordinary (nonrefractory) bricks around it and that was the
furnace. I used anthracite as fuel with a reversed vacuum cleaner as fan.
To light the coal I burned some wood first. It reached temperatures until
1600 C (2900 F) and I used stainless steel 'crucibles' for melting
copper ... which leaked after two times of use, because the alloy
components of the stainless steel dissolved in the liquid copper. And I
started with home made foundry sand which I later replaced by 'real'
foundry sand for better results. Later on I also got a 'real' 500 cc graphite
crucible. The melting capacity was about three kilos (6 1/2 lbs). The
furnace wall bricks were completely cracked and 'slaggified' on the inside.
I suspended this hobby for 20 years and I resumed it in 1992 with a large
furnace from refractory concrete which is able to heat 500 cc crucibles for
melting 3 kilos of copper in 45 mins with a roofmaker's propane burner.
The furnace was just an oil drum of about 30 cm (12") diameter and
height and I lined this with a layer of 7 cm refractory concrete. From the
top of the drum I cut about 7 cm, filled it with that same concrete (leaving
an exhaust hole just off the center) and that was the lid. Now I call this
furnace the 'roar furnace' because it roars so loudly that once on a
summer day when I was melting bronze a neighbor thought that a jet
airplane was flying low. I use it very seldom, only when I make large
castings. A year later I also made smaller castings and started silver- and
goldsmithing. I bought high resolution oil-based sand (purchased at a
silversmithing supply store) for small (< 100 grams) bronze and sterling
silver castings and home made sand for coarse (cast iron) and larger
castings (bronze). The small furnace can be used in the garage too
because I have a hood with a vent. The description below is about the
small furnace. In October 1995 I discovered that one of the cheapest
buiding materials (air - spaced gypsum) turned out to be one of the best
and most insulating refractories. I could make the furnace so hot that it is
able to melt cast iron and shorten the melting times of copper, silver and
gold alloys further.
Necessary Considerations
1. Safety
A list of required items for your safety (description below).
2. Environment Consciousness
As we live in an era of greenhouse gases, waste dumps, exhausting
of resources and endangered species, some environmental care in
casting and silversmithing is a must and in books, FAQs, etc. little
attention is still given to this hobby or business. For the average
hobbyist, some recommendations to work as energy-efficient and
environmentally conscious as possible:
Estimation of Temperatures
gif picture
For use as soldering blocks this material is excellent. It is soft (nails to fix
the work can easily be pushed in), heat-resistant and cheap. Now I don't
need the far more expensive soldering blocks sold by silversmith suppliers
anymore.
The amounts of this blocks needed are small, so it suffices just to look at
trash heaps at building sites.
Here are some guidelines for working with molten metals. Of course, the
mold should be ready before melting the metal.
• Weigh the metal and fill the crucible and put it into the furnace.
• To light the fire, put a lit piece of (news)paper into the furnace
between the wall and the crucible and turn on the gas slowly. When
it catches, the torch can be set to full power and the louder it roars,
the better (Earplugs are not necessary). Experiment by moving the
torch in and out.
• When it smells badly, then the combustion is not complete because
of the cold walls and the lid should be kept off for a few minutes to
allow combustion of still unburnt gas.
• When everything goes well, the bottom of the crucible is yellow-hot
within 5..10 minutes.
• Do not overheat the metals, but also, the metal should be molten
entirely before casting. Before pouring out, add a teaspoon of borax
which dissolves all oxides and other dross.
• When melting pure copper, add some powdered charcoal to prevent
oxidizing as cuprous oxide (Cu2O) dissolves into it and makes it
(and its alloys) brittle.