S “We’ve been to Copenhagen twice recently

and are planning another trip soon.

THE NAVIGATOR There’s no place I’d rather travel to right now.”
—Frank Falcinelli

1
Noma restaurant

COPENHAGEN:

Where Chefs
Go on
Vacation

There’s a food revolution in full

swing, and it’s not in Tokyo or
Barcelona. Chefs Frank Castronovo
and Frank Falcinelli take
us on a tour of the Danish capital

2 Amagertorv Square
on the Strøget

Frank Castronovo and Frank Falcinelli

PHOTOGRAPHS: FROM BOTTOM LEFT, COURTESY MIKAEL COLVILLE-ANDERSEN; BROOKE WOLIN;

(above, left and right)—a.k.a. “the Franks”—
are the duo behind a handful of wildly
popular Brooklyn and Manhattan spots,
including Frankies 457 Spuntino and Prime
Meats. When it came to their most
2 Hot ’Hoods
“The chill Christiania is like Berkeley in the
1960s. Strøget, a pedestrians-only street,
is the heart of Copenhagen. Kødbyens, the
Meatpacking District, is a hot spot for

CORBIS IMAGES; DITTE ISAGER. ILLUSTRATIONS BY SARAH C. RUTHERFORD.

ambitious project to date—Frankies 570
Spuntino in Greenwich Village, due
to open early this summer—they sought
inspiration well off the beaten track, visiting
Copenhagen to take in the city’s incredible
culinary and design scenes. Here, they tell
us their favorite things about the world’s
hottest food destination.
artists.” —Frank C.
3 Buzzworthy
“The baristas at the Coffee Collective
have won as many awards as 30 Rock.
We always make sure to bring a few
bags of their beans back home.” —Frank F.

4 Pedal Pushing
“Renting a bike is key. Every street has
a separate bike lane and everyone knows
1 The Reservation (and obeys) the laws. [See Cycle City
“René Redzepi’s Noma is one of the most sidebar.] —Frank F.
3 Coffee Collective beautifully designed restaurants in the
world. Easily one of the best meals of my
life. He makes a dish called Hen and the Egg See page 24 for the rest
4 Public transportation (pictured) that incorporates hay.” —Frank F. of the Franks’ picks

2 28E D 7 F F ; J ? J$9 E C š JU N E 20 11

 S “You can smell the ocean and hear the
THE NAVIGATOR : COPENHAGEN
5 Kødbyens
restaurant
Fiskebar
8 Shrimp smørrebrød at Sankt Annæ
9 late, yes, it’s light out, and yes,
The cool
brew
5 Young Man and the Sea
“Anders Selmer was a sommelier at Noma
before opening Kødbyens Fiskebar, his lively
fish restaurant in the Meatpacking District.
He serves the best of Danish seafood,
including fat local oysters, blue mussels,
and trout.” —Frank C.
6 Design Details
“Walking the streets influenced the design
of our newest restaurant more than anything
else. There’s amazing ironwork, light
fixtures, and even door knobs.” —Frank F.
7 Blue Plate Special
“You can’t miss the Royal Copenhagen
flagship store, where they sell all the
classic porcelain designs.” —Frank C.
8 Lunch Like a Local
“Sankt Annæ is the quintessential
family-run restaurant. Get the
shrimp smørrebrød, or open-face
sandwich. Sadly, it’s lunch only.”
—Frank C.
ship horns from your room at the Copenhagen
Admiral Hotel.” —Frank Castronovo
6 10 P.M. ,
Frederiksberg Garden
Danish for
design
7
Royal
Copenhagen
porcelain
24-HOUR
PARTY
PHOTOGRAPHS: CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT, THOMAS BUSK/COURTESY FISKEBAR; COURTESY TRAVIS KAUFFMAN; COURTESY ROYAL COPENHAGEN; BRIGITTE LACOMBE; COURTESY STEVE
BERTRAM/ADVENTURE FOOD (STREETCUISINE.BLOGSPOT.COM); GETTY IMAGES; MARIA GOTTHARD/COURTESY SANKT ANNÆ; BROOKE WOLIN. ILLUSTRATION BY SARAH C. RUTHERFORD.
PEOPLE
Your watch isn’t broken: Yes, it’s
everyone is at one of the city’s many
outdoor cafés or parks. Anders
Selmer, chef at Kødbyens Fiskebar
(see No. 5), tells you where to make
like a local—all summer night long:
“Summers here are short, so
any chance we get to spend
time outside we take. My
favorite spot for a late-night
picnic with polse (sausage,
below), beer, or Champagne
is along the water in
9 Experimental Beer Christiania near downtown.
“Mikkel Borg Bjergsø’s Mikkeller bar serves his In the center of Copenhagen,
crazy beers, which have a cult-like following.
Europa 1989 café is the
The Beer Geek Breakfast, made with coffee and
oats, is intense.” —Frank C.
best people-watching spot
in town. Christianshavns
Bådudlejning & Café, a boat
10 Holy Heights rental and waterside café on
“The Church of Our Savior has two things to a historic canal, is for
look for: a hand-carved wood organ and a cork- romantics. Mesteren &
screw spire you can climb for a bird’s-eye view Lærlingen in the Meatpacking
of Copenhagen.” —Frank F.
District is fun for beer and
For more details, see Sourcebook, page 124.
live music. And of course
there’s my restaurant nearby
for cocktails and oysters.”
CYCLE CITY
“Copenhagen’s greatest attraction is our
bicycle culture. Ride and you’re a part
of the city, not a tourist with a giant map.
Rent from Baisikeli—their bikes are
stylish and inexpensive.”
—Mikael Colville-Andersen, bike evangelist and
founder of copenhagencyclechic.com
10 The Church of
Our Savior
 S
WHAT’S GOING ON
THE TAKEAWAY IN GOING OUT

TOP TREND
Chefs from Austin
C O OI ML E N T to San Francisco are
COND
THE DESTINATION DINER adding Japanese

Chefs are revolutionizing that American classic with LUCKNY shichimi togarashi
(made with seven
short-order cooking that’s long on creativity
SEVE spices) to popcorn,
Bloody Marys, french
Add the diner to the growing list of restaurants getting a full-on chef makeover (think fries, and any other
gastropubs and food trucks). Yes, eggs are still on the menu, but so is the name of the farm
dish that can benefit
they’re sourced from, and they just might be cooked sous vide. And you can pair your
line-caught tuna melt with a biodynamic Sauvignon Blanc. For a taste of the trend, we break
from its spicy-citrusy-
down the signature dish at Plow in San Francisco. —MERYL ROTHSTEIN savory hit. We love
Gion Hararyokaku
Duck Bread
brand from Kyoto.
($26; southwillard.com)
from Sonoma Artisan from Acme Bread Company
Foie Gras
Leeks

Foodist
the
from Mariquita Farm

ANATOMY
OF A HASH

ˇˇˇˇˇˇˇˇˇˇˇˇˇ

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ZACH D E SART. FOOD STYLING BY ED GABRIELS. PROP STYLING BY THOM DRIVER. FOR MORE DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
DEAR FOODIST:
Q I recently tried to pay a restaurant
check with a credit card but was told
they only accepted cash. And it was a nice
place. What gives? —Plastic Man

DEAR PLASTIC your pocket. Second,

A MAN: credit cards charge
It’s one thing for a a merchant fee for
sandwich shop or every transaction,
food truck to accept anywhere from 1.5
cash only, but when to 3 percent. And
a place is charging for a small business,
$15 or more for entrées every penny counts.
and offering wine by If a place decides to
the bottle, not taking take credit cards,
credit cards seems the customers will
downright inhospi- likely pay the fee via
Lotus-root chips Japanese sweet potatoes Eggs
table. (And hospitality higher menu prices.
from GreenLeaf Produce from Mariquita Farm from Toluma Farms
should be the guiding Restaurateurs have
principle of any to decide whether
OUR FAVORITE MODERN DINERS restaurant.) So why they want to please
all the plastic hate? themselves or their
For starters, smaller, customers. To make
1 NICKEL DINER
Los Angeles 2 M. WELLS
Long Island City, NY 3 CITIZEN’S BAND
San Francisco
independent
restaurants—the kind
sure you won’t have
to dine and dash
nickeldiner.com mwellsdiner.com citizensbandsf.com
people like me love to next time, ask the
MUST ORDER: MUST ORDER: MUST ORDER:
Maple-bacon doughnut Foie gras grilled cheese Braised pork belly and egg support—prefer cash restaurant what its
for the same reason we policy is when you

4 BITE CAFE
Chicago 5 CROSSROADS DINER
Dallas 6 24 DINER
Austin
all do: It’s money in reserve.

bitecafechicago.com crossroads-diner.com 24diner.com

MUST ORDER:
Breakfast poutine (fries, bacon
gravy, poached eggs, cheese
curds, and pickled chiles)
MUST ORDER: MUST ORDER: ANDREW KNOWLTON IS THE FOODIST.
HE ANSWERS YOUR QUESTIONS HERE AND
Pickle-juice egg salad Roasted banana and brown AT BONAPPETIT.COM/GO/FOODIST.
sandwich sugar milk shake E-MAIL HIM AT FOODIST@BONAPPETIT.COM.

34 8E D 7 F F ; J ? J$9 E C š JU N E 20 1 1

T H ESHE’S AN ACTRESS, A SINGER, A BLOGGER,
A MOM, A WIFE, AND NOW A COOKBOOK AUTHOR.

G I R L
I S T H E R E A N Y T H I N G G W Y N E T H P A LT R O W C A N ’ T D O ?

C A N
WE HOPPED A PLANE TO LONDON TO FIND OUT ONCE AND FOR ALL
BY ADAM RAPOPORT PHOTOGRAPHS BY MATT JONES

COOK
=KJJ;H

PHOTOGRAPHS BY TKTKT JU NE 201 1 š 8E D 7 F F ; J ? J$9 E C 1 05

GWYNETH
PA LT ROW
IS STANDING
BAREFOOT IN
THE KITCHEN
of her London townhouse, wondering what to do next. She has just grilled two
meaty halibut fillets, topped them with a quickly diced mango-avocado salsa, and
finished the dish with an aggressive squirt of lime juice.
All this while a photographer is asking her to turn this way just a bit, look up
slightly, and smile yet again.
Paltrow, 38, is either an extremely confident cook or a remarkably good actress.
Or, of course, both.
“How about we do the pasta next?” the photographer asks.
“Sure!” With that, Paltrow fires up her pro-style range, reaches for a 12-inch
skillet, and adds to it a generous dose of olive oil and a bowl of roasted tomatoes.
The reason we’re here in her kitchen at all is twofold: Paltrow’s new cookbook,
My Father’s Daughter (see “Words to Cook By” on page TK), is legitimately good—the
work of a passionate home cook who knows her stuff. And when she gets an idea
in her head, she makes it happen. Back when this article was still in the planning
stages and we had yet to even book the photo shoot, we sent Paltrow an e-mail. We
wanted to know if she needed any help developing original dishes for the article.
Because, frankly, developing recipes can take forever; it’s what we do here at Bon
Appétit, but it’s never easy.
“What’s up?!” she shot back moments later from London. “I’ve done the recipes
already and tested them (well, I have one to retest). They are as follows, with a sum-
mer get-together theme, using abundant ingredients… Shall I send [them] over?”
Um, well…yeah.
Let’s be clear: We editors expect to badger our contributors for on-time copy
and recipes. We are not used to timeliness. In short, we are not used to Gwyneth KEEPING GRILLED CHICKEN WITH FRESH 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice low; simmer until peaches are very soft and
HER EDGE BBQ SAUCE
being Gwyneth—the movies, the buzz-generating turn on Glee, the talk of a record 2 garlic cloves, minced flavors meld, about 10 minutes. Remove pan
4 SERVINGS Paltrow prepares one batch of
contract, her increasingly popular Goop blog. There have even been rumors of her A cook is only as 1"½ tsp. adobo sauce from canned from heat; let cool. Pour peach mixture into
this barbecue sauce with adobo to share
developing her own food magazine. good as her knives. chipotle chiles in adobo or 1 tsp. a blender and purée until smooth. Season
“I really only use with her husband and finishes another with
But she’ll tell you herself: She’s not Wonder Woman. “Don’t know how that soy sauce to taste with salt and pepper. Place half the
Global knives,” says soy sauce for the kids. “You can use it on
rumor got into the papers,” she says of the magazine project. “It could not be further Kosher salt and freshly ground black sauce in a medium bowl; add the chicken
Paltrow. “If I go to basically anything grilled,” she says. Two
from the truth. I literally do not have time to bathe let alone start a magazine.” pepper and turn to coat. Let marinate at room tem-
friends’ houses and things to remember: The chicken tastes
Oh, yeah—time. That can be hard to find when you’re raising two kids and your 4 skinless, boneless organic chicken perature for 20 minutes, or cover and chill up
use different knives, I best when cooked on a grill so you get that
husband, Chris Martin, is the lead singer in one of the world’s biggest bands, Cold- always manage to cut
breasts to 8 hours, turning occasionally. Cover and
char. To amplify flavor, Paltrow marinates
play. (Martin makes a brief appearance during the shoot post–morning workout, Vegetable oil refrigerate remaining sauce.
the meat in some of the sauce before grill-
breezing into the kitchen amid the lights and stylists to crank up a purple energy Prepare a grill to medium-high heat. Brush
ing, then lacquers the chicken again on the INGREDIENT INFO: Canned chipotle chiles in
shake in the family’s Vitamix blender.) grill rack with oil. Grill chicken until browned
grill just before serving. adobo are sold in better supermarkets and at
As a cook, Paltrow has vacillated between obsessively health-minded and just- and almost cooked through, 4–5 minutes
specialty foods stores and Latin markets.
like-the-rest-of-us indulgent, finally settling somewhere in the sensible middle. 1 cup chopped peeled fresh peaches or per side. Brush on all sides with reserved
When her father, the late Bruce Paltrow, was diagnosed with throat cancer in 1998, 9–10 oz. frozen sliced peaches, Combine first 5 ingredients in a small sauce- sauce; grill until glazed and cooked through,
she immersed herself in research of all things good for you, hoping, as she writes in thawed, chopped pan. Season lightly with salt and pepper and 1–2 minutes per side. Slice crosswise. Serve
her book, to heal her dad: “Of course I couldn’t cure him, (continued on page 1TK) ½ cup ketchup bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to remaining sauce alongside.

10 6 8E D 7 F F ; J ? J$9 E C š J U N E 20 1 1 JU N E 20 1 1 š 8E D 7 F F ; J ? J$9 E C 1 07

 1
WORDS TO
COOK BY
Our favorite bits and 2
bites from My Father’s
Daughter (Grand
Central Life & Style)

* “Clean as you go.”

* “That last pinch of salt
or squeeze of lemon…
can be the most
important step.”
* “Anchovies!”
* “A Vitamix blender will
make your soups creamy
with no added cream,
5
make smoothies extra
light, make breadcrumbs
and dressings, and
more.…”
* “Drink while you cook.”
* “Around the time my
son turned three and a
half, we started having
early family dinners all
together and it quickly
became one of the best
parts of my life.”
* “Make it fun. It doesn’t
have to be complicated.”

THE KITCHEN DIARIES

Paltrow’s kitchen is on the ground floor 4
of a double-wide London townhouse
and looks out on a backyard with a
big stretch of lawn and a lap pool. The
back of the townhouse is painted a
bold Mediterranean blue, not unlike the
dress she wears here [1]. On this page,
clockwise from top, Paltrow makes
Slow-Roasted Tomato Pasta with
Anchovy Oreganata, [2] Grilled Chicken
with Peach BBQ Sauce, [3] Strawberry
Shortcake Sliders, [4] Peach Coolers,
and [5] Corn Vichyssoise.

Paltrow likes to
keep it simple in the
kitchen: “Maldon
sea salt, olive oil, <EH7IB?:;I>EME<EKH:7OM?J>
and lemon can =MOD;J>F7BJHEM"=EJE
BONAPPETIT.COM/G0/GWYNETH
=KJJ;H

make anything taste

great,” she says.

1088E D 7 F F ; J ? J$9 E C š J U N E 20 1 1 PHOTOGRAPHS BY TKTKT


“ I ’ M N O T G O I N G T O B E D O I N G M O L E C U L A R G A S T R O N O M Y;
I ’ M A W I F E A N D A M O M A N D A H O M E C O O K .”
PEACH COOLER
MAKES 4 This is Paltrow’s American spin on
a Pimm’s Cup, a cocktail from her adopted
hometown of London. The key to success?
Use ripe, fragrant peaches.
2 very ripe peaches, peeled, cut into
½" wedges
6 Tbsp. peach liqueur
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
¼ cup vodka
1 English hothouse cucumber
2 cups chilled Prosecco
1"½ cups chilled soda water
12 fresh mint leaves
Using a muddler or wooden spoon, mash
peaches with liqueur and lemon juice in a
large pitcher. Stir in vodka. DO AHEAD: Can
be made 4 hours ahead. Cover and chill.
Cut ⅓ of cucumber lengthwise into
4 spears for garnish. Thinly slice remaining
cucumber. Stir Prosecco, soda water, mint,
and sliced cucumber into pitcher. Fill glasses
with ice. Pour cooler into glasses; garnish
with cucumber spear.
CORN VICHYSSOISE
4 SERVINGS Just as you toss chicken bones
into the pot to make a more flavorful stock,
Paltrow uses the stripped corn cobs to for-
tify the base of this cold, creamy soup. And
then she lets the sweet corn do the talking:
“The trick is to not put too many things in
that will diminish the taste of summer.”
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium leeks, white and light-green
parts only, coarsely chopped
(about 1"½ cups)
5 ears shucked corn, kernels cut from
cobs, cobs reserved
1 cup coarsely chopped peeled potato
(about 1 medium)
4 cups good-quality vegetable stock
Kosher salt and freshly ground black
pepper
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
¼ cup crème fraîche or sour cream
1 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh chives
Heat oil in a large heavy pot over medium
heat. Add leeks and cook, stirring occasion-
ally, until they begin to soften, about
5 minutes. Add corn kernels, reserved cobs,
potato, and stock. Season lightly with salt
11 0 8E D 7 F F ; J ? J$9 E C š J U N E 20 1 1
and pepper. Increase heat to high and bring
soup to a boil. Reduce heat to simmer,
cover with lid slightly ajar, and cook until the
vegetables are very soft, about 35 minutes.
Discard corn cobs; let soup cool slightly.
Working in batches, purée soup in a blender
until very smooth. Set a fine-mesh strainer
over a large bowl; strain, discarding solids.
Chill soup until cold. Stir in lemon juice, and if
too thick, thin with water by ¼-cupfuls. Sea-
son with salt and pepper. Spoon a dollop of
crème fraîche atop each serving and sprinkle
with chives.
GRILLED HALIBUT WITH
MANGO-AVOCADO SALSA
4 SERVINGS “I’m such an ingredient kind of
person,” Paltrow says, referring to the what-
you-see-is-what-you-get nature of this lush
salsa. “I like ingredients to kind of stay the
way they are.”
1 medium ripe avocado, peeled and cut
into ½" dice
1 medium ripe mango, peeled and cut
into ½" dice
1 cup cherry tomatoes, quartered
4 large basil leaves, thinly sliced
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided,
plus more for brushing
3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice, divided
Kosher salt and freshly ground black
pepper
4 6-oz. halibut or mahi-mahi fillets
4 lime wedges
Prepare a grill to medium-high heat. Gently
combine the avocado, mango, tomatoes,
basil, 1 Tbsp. oil, and 1 Tbsp. lime juice in
a large mixing bowl. Season salsa to taste
with salt and pepper and set aside at room
temperature, gently tossing occasionally.
Place fish fillets in a 13x9x2" glass baking
dish. Drizzle remaining 2 Tbsp. oil and 2
Tbsp. lime juice over. Season fish with salt
and pepper. Let marinate at room tempera-
ture for 10 minutes, turning fish occasionally.
Brush grill rack with oil. Grill fish until just
opaque in center, about 5 minutes per side.
Transfer to plates. Spoon mango-avocado
salsa over fish. Squeeze a lime wedge over
each and serve.
STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE SLIDERS
4 SERVINGS Paltrow loves strawberry short-
cake. “But I’m always telling my kids not to
eat so much white flour. So for this version
I made the biscuits with white spelt flour
instead. Spelt is a type of wheat that is said
to be more digestible and doesn’t turn into
sugar as easily.”
BISCUITS
2"½cups white spelt flour plus more
2tsp. baking powder
½ tsp. baking soda
½ tsp. kosher salt
⅓ cup organic vegetable shortening
(or butter)
½ cup buttermilk plus more for brushing
½ cup plain whole-milk yogurt
3 Tbsp. agave syrup (nectar)
FILLING
2 cups fresh strawberries, hulled, halved
2 Tbsp. agave syrup (nectar)
Balsamic vinegar
Whipped cream
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
2"-diameter biscuit cutter
INGREDIENT INFO: Agave syrup (nectar) and
spelt flour are available at better supermar-
kets and at natural foods stores.
BISCUITS Preheat oven to 475°. Whisk
2$½ cups spelt flour and next 3 ingredients in
a large bowl. Using fingertips, blend in the
shortening; form a well in center of mixture.
Whisk ½ cup buttermilk, yogurt, and agave
in a small bowl; pour into flour mixture; stir
with a fork to blend. Transfer to a lightly
floured work surface. Knead 2 or 3 times to
bring dough together. Press dough into a
¾"-thick round. Using 2"-diameter cutter,
cut the dough into rounds. Gather scraps;
repeat cutting until all dough is used. Place
the biscuits on an ungreased baking sheet;
brush with buttermilk.
Bake until golden brown and a tester
inserted comes out clean, about 10 minutes.
Transfer to a wire rack; let cool completely.
FILLING Mix strawberries and agave in a
medium bowl. Drizzle vinegar over; toss.
Cut biscuits in half. Place 3 biscuit bot-
toms on each plate. Spoon whipped cream
over each and top with strawberry mixture.
Place biscuit tops over.
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ROASTED TOMATO AND ANCHOVY
OREGANATA PASTA
4 SERVINGS Two things you’ll always find
in Paltrow’s kitchen: roasted tomatoes and
plenty of anchovies. “Slow-roasted toma-
toes are like candy,” she says. “You can use
them for almost anything, and they couldn’t
be easier to make.” Anchovies, she says, go
especially well with tomato-based dishes:
“They add that whole umami thing.”
4 cups cherry tomatoes, divided
DOING IT 9 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
HER WAY
Large pinch kosher salt plus
Paltrow owns loads more for seasoning
of cookbooks, but
¼ cup unseasoned dry breadcrumbs
she doesn’t swear by
them. “I mostly use (preferably homemade)
them just for ideas,” 1 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf
she says. Instead, she parsley
trusts her instincts, a ½ tsp. finely chopped fresh thyme
notion she preaches Large pinch dried oregano
to all home cooks. Freshly ground black pepper
“Make it how you like 16 anchovy fillets, soaked, rinsed
it,” she says. “There’s
and filleted
no right or wrong way. 12 oz. spaghetti
If the recipe calls for
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
cumin and you don’t
like cumin, substitute Small handful fresh basil leaves,
something else.” Here, roughly torn
she makes her Grilled
Preheat oven to 200°. Place 2 cups tomatoes
Halibut with Mango-
in an 8x8x2" glass baking dish. Stir in 1 Tbsp.
Avocado Salsa.
oil and a large pinch of salt. Bake, stirring oc-
casionally, at least 3 hours and up to 8 hours
(the longer they bake, the sweeter and more
concentrated the flavor). Set aside.
Increase oven temperature to 400°. Line
a small baking sheet with parchment paper.
(continued from page 1TK) but I found that my body felt really good.” She ended up Place breadcrumbs and herbs in a small bowl;
going vegan for several years—that is, until she became pregnant, at which point season with salt and pepper. Drizzle 1 Tbsp. oil
grilled cheese and Baskin-Robbins Jamoca Almond Fudge ice cream won out. When over; stir until mixture resembles damp sand.
she began raising her children, Apple and Moses, she wanted them to eat well and Lay anchovies about ¼" apart on prepared
enjoy food. “Could I use some butter and cheese and eggs in my cooking without sheet. Evenly pack breadcrumb mixture over;
going down some kind of hippie shame spiral?” she writes. “Yes, I could.” drizzle with 1 Tbsp. oil. Bake until golden
Few of Paltrow’s recipes—which she develops with her kitchen assistant Julia brown, 3–5 minutes; set anchovy oreganata
Turshen, whom she credits prominently in her book—are what you’d call complex. aside.
And that’s by design. There’s a fresh simplicity to them; they’re healthy-ish with- Cook spaghetti in a large pot of boiling
out being preachy. In the book, for instance, she gives a great recipe for an oyster salted water, stirring occasionally, until tender
po’boy, but also provides a vegan option. And she has recipes for dishes like roasted but still firm to the bite. Drain, reserving 1 cup
fish with salsa verde, chicken and dumplings, and spaghetti alle vongole. If you like pasta cooking liquid.
Jamie Oliver or the River Cafe cookbooks, My Father’s Daughter will speak to you. Meanwhile, place remaining 2 cups toma-
What’s most engaging about Paltrow’s recipes is that there’s usually a reason toes in a large bowl. Crush tomatoes with
and a story behind each. “It’s how I think as a cook,” she says while slicing grilled your hands. Heat 4 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet
chicken breasts on the bias, just like a catering chef. “I wouldn’t say I’m a very over medium-high heat. Add garlic; cook,
original thinker, but if I have a good experience with something, I’ll want to take it stirring, 30 seconds. Add crushed tomatoes
further or adapt it in some way. I’m not going to be doing molecular gastronomy; and a pinch of salt; cook, stirring occasionally,
I’m a wife and a mom and a home cook.” until juices thicken, 6–7 minutes. Add roasted
The only request Paltrow makes during the shoot is that it wrap by 3:00 p.m. tomatoes.
so she can pick up her kids from school. At 2:58, we get the last shots of her. A few Add drained spaghetti to skillet; toss
minutes later she reappears in beat-up jeans and a snug leather jacket, having to coat, adding reserved pasta water by
transformed from cover girl to concerned mom. “You guys aren’t going to let all this ¼-cupfuls if dry. Remove from heat; stir in
food go to waste, are you?” she asks the crew as she gathers up the chicken breasts basil. Drizzle with remaining 2 Tbsp. oil.
and slides them into a mega Ziploc bag. “Make sure you take some home with you. Divide among bowls. Top each with ¼ of the
“Okay,” she says on her way toward the front door. “I gotta go! Gotta get the kids.” anchovy oreganata.
And that’s it. School’s out, shoot’s over. And the chicken is delicious.
JU NE 201 1 š 8E D 7 F F ; J ? J$9 E C 1 11
 THE FANTASTIC
MR. AND MRS. HENDERSON Fergus and Margot
Henderson in their
Covent Garden kitchen.
Basic S-hooks hold
In England, Sunday lunch isn’t just a meal, it’s an institution. Nose-to-tail pioneer everything from
Fergus Henderson, who just opened London’s hot new St. John Hotel, teams with his wife, wrenches to trivets to a
clarinet-lesson schedule.
Margot, to show us how to while away an afternoon in true British style
GUTTER

GUTTER

BY CHRISTINE MUHLKE PHOTOGRAPHS BY DITTE ISAGER

 FERGUSISM NO. 1

Dis·ci·pline \di-se-plen\ v.: to roughly chop

“There’s a point where you’ve told parsley you’re in charge.
You haven’t defeated it; you’ve disciplined it.”

A whole cheese adds splendor, especially when served with raisin loaf. The afternoon starts simply with radishes, butter, and salt.

sought to honor the whole beast by serving every muscle and

A SUNDAY ROAST IS A organ, setting off a culinary movement that is still rippling like
a plate of tripe across the globe.
Margot’s food also spurs bursts of enthusiasm: She and her
BRITISH TRADITION. partner, Melanie Arnold, converted a bicycle shed in a school-
turned-studio off Shoreditch High Street into the lunch spot of
But Fergus and Margot Henderson prefer to host their weekend choice for London artists, as well as the launching pad for their
lunch on Saturday, “because that way you can go on,” says Fergus, sought-after catered events.
the chef and co-owner of the St. John restaurants in London. At the couple’s Covent Garden flat, which is filled with friends’
“There’s no fear for the next day.” Fearlessness is key: Accord- art and the haphazard energy that having three children under
HOW TO EAT and a bowl of slightly
ing to Margot, the chef and partner of Arnold & Henderson and 18 can bring, Biciclettas (a cocktail of Campari and white wine RADISHES AT softened best qual-
Rochelle Canteen, the secret to a successful party—besides lovely over ice) and St. John private-label Champagne start flowing THEIR PEAK
ity butter. Pick up
people, the odd ray of sunshine, and good food and wine—is a before guests arrive. But with two professional cooks in the snug 4 SERVINGS Eating a radish, spread a
bit of chaos. kitchen–slash–dining room, plus a menu of St. John’s greatest both the radishes bit of butter on it,
The Hendersons are masters of chaos, albeit of the most deli- bits, the chaos is reserved for the table. Fergus and Margot set and their leaves is sprinkle with salt,
cious sort. The dining rooms at St. John and St. John Bread & about picking and “disciplining” parsley (“just a few chops and true nose-to-tail eat- and eat the radish,
Wine are as stripped down as the ungarnished plates. (At the you’re in charge,” Fergus says) to accompany the marrow bones ing, says Henderson. then place the leaves
new St. John hotel and restaurant in the West End, Henderson and cleaning radishes, the leaves of which will be torn off at the
in a wbowl. Once the
cultivates a mood of comfort and succor—if Welsh rarebit is your table and drizzled with mustardy vinaigrette—his idea of nose-
Pile 16 to 20 radishes are eaten,
idea of room-service bliss.) Yet the primal, indulgent nature of to-tail vegetables. They roast tomatoes into sweet submission
scrubbed breakfast drizzle the leaves
the food rouses guests to levels of cheekiness unseen elsewhere. for the anchovy and Little Gem salad that, he says, saved his life Tossing the An-
radishes with pert with Dijon Vinai-
This is the man who, after seeing Marcello Mastroianni suck the when he was feeling “liverish” in Barcelona. (Dijon vinaigrette chovy, Little Gem,
and Tomato Salad green leaves still at- grette (see recipe),
marrow from bones in La Grande Bouffe, realized that it was just will be whisked into the pan with the tomatoes’ juices to become
by hand ensures tached onto a plate. season to taste with
the dish for the restaurant he would open with Trevor Gulliver mysteriously more than the sum of its parts, “like a Whiskey
full coverage. Set out a bowl of salt and pepper, and
in a former smokehouse. “The bones express the way I feel about Sour,” says Fergus.) Finally, they cook spinach to get whizzed
coarse sea salt enjoy as a salad.
food, which is that you should have to slightly wrestle with it,” he into “gunge” and sear a handsome beef sirloin on the (electric)
GUTTER

says. “It’s so lovely to celebrate bones when increasingly everyone range before a blast in the oven.
else goes for fillet.” Since St. John opened in 1994, Fergus has Asked how he knows when the meat (continued on page TK)

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 HOW TO MAKE FERGUSISM NO. 2
A PERFECT
Gunge \gunj\ v., n.: to purée, such as spinach
ROAST BEAST
“My mom gunged, and we followed
A bone-in joint of meat is
the usual centerpiece of a in her gunge footsteps.”
Sunday roast. But Fergus
Henderson’s boneless
sirloin is so delicious and
easy to cook that the
tradition deserves to be
updated. His tips for a
flawless roast:
1. Fat is essential: It’s
what bastes the meat as it
cooks. Ask your butcher
for a top sirloin or strip loin
roast with a nice fat cap.
2. A shower of coarse
gray sea salt and ground
pepper before searing
creates a flavorful crust.
(“But watch out for smoke
alarms,” says Margot.)
3. Let it rest in peace for
15 minutes before slicing.

Fergus isn’t a fan

of the big slice: “Thin
says to meat, ‘Ha!
We’re in charge
now. You’re cooked
for my supper.’!”
Opposite: Sirloin and
spinach “gunge.”
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 GOOD BONES FERGUSISM NO. 3

If anything’s better
than butter, it’s roasted
Szoosh \jooje\ n.: fancy design
bone marrow, a formerly
forgotten dish that Fergus
“There’s no szoosh at home and no szoosh at work. I’m sans szoosh.”
Henderson helped popu-
larize on menus around
the world. It couldn’t be
simpler to make at home:
1. Cook veal or beef bones
in a hot oven just until the
fat becomes wobbly (too
liquid and you’ll lose it).
2. A humble parsley salad
provides the ideal balance,
says Fergus: “It’s green
and happy and healthy.
It works in a cheeky duo.”
3. Scooping out
the marrow is easier
with a slender marrow
spoon, available on
eBay and amazon.com.

Saturday
lunchers, from left:
Douglas Stewart,
Fergus Henderson,
Tanya Thompson,
Pauline Daly, and
Melanie Arnold.
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Margot Henderson and film producer Piers Thompson.
(continued from page TK) is done, Fergus pushes up his round
glasses and says, “It’s sort of Jedi Knight, cooking meat. It’s—you
know Star Wars, the first one? Luke Skywalker’s flying down the
valley of the Death Star, shooting his missiles, and he hears this
voice: ‘Luke, put away your sights. Feel the Force.’ So he puts
away his sights. Feels the Force. Shoots his missile and blows up
the Death Star. The same way when you’re cooking: You should
feel the Force and be a Jedi Knight.”
As Fergus puts the Force-felt hunk of meat back onto the
counter and tents it with foil, he says, “Now it’s resting happily,
having an emotional moment.”
When friends and their dogs trickle in from their respective
galleries and restaurants, lunch is served family style. “We’re
family, after all,” says Fergus. The laughter and loud proclama-
tions of deliciousness start as soon as the marrow bones hit the
table and are sustained through the cheese course—an entire
wheel from nearby Neal’s Yard Dairy, which lends a certain splen-
dor, says Margot. (The accompanying raisin bread was baked at
the new St. John Bakery, located in an interesting wholesale food
complex in Bermondsey; Saturday’s custard-doughnut sale is
definitely worth the trip.) Dessert is a single scoop of the dense,
rich chocolate ice cream that St. John’s pastry chefs spent years
perfecting. (The secret: caramel swirled into the finished base.)
By four o’clock, the ice cream has softened to a truffle-like state
as a bottle of La Vieille Prune, a kicky eau-de-vie, is brought out.
“Oh, it’s the Prune!” Margot exclaims, foreshadowing the after-
noon’s segue into evening. Another Saturday lunch without fear.
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Whisk lemon juice, Dijon mustard, vinegar,
and garlic in a medium bowl. Gradually
whisk in oil. Season to taste with salt and
pepper. DO AHEAD: Can be made 3 days
ahead. Cover and chill. Return to room
temperature before using.
ANCHOVY, LITTLE GEM,
AND TOMATO SALAD
4 SERVINGS Little Gem, a lettuce that both
looks and tastes like a cross between
baby romaine and a small head of butter
lettuce, can be found at farmers’ markets.
If unavailable, substitute hearts of romaine.
(For more about curly parsley, see Prep
School, page TK.)
4 ripe tomatoes on the vine (about
1"⅓ lb.), stemmed, halved lengthwise
Kosher salt and freshly ground black
pepper
1"½ Tbsp. olive oil
⅓ cup Dijon Vinaigrette (see recipe)
12 whole marinated white anchovy fillets
(boquerones), drained
1 head Little Gem lettuce (about 4 oz.),
leaves separated
3 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh curly parsley
The chocolate ice cream is so rich, it doesn’t melt—it just gets truffley. INGREDIENT INFO: Marinated white anchovies
(also called boquerones) can be found at
specialty foods stores and at tienda.com.
Preheat oven to 400°. Place tomatoes in
RECIPES ADAPTED FROM THE COOKBOOKS THE WHOLE BEAST: NOSE TO TAIL EATING BY FERGUS HENDERSON (ECCO) AND BEYOND
NOSE TO TAIL BY FERGUS HENDERSON AND JUSTIN PIERS GELLATLY (BLOOMSBURY USA). FOR MORE DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
an 8x8x2" glass baking dish. Season with
salt and pepper, then drizzle with oil. Roast
tomatoes until softened, about 30 minutes.
HOW TO EAT RADISHES Let cool. Transfer tomatoes to a large bowl,
leaving juices behind. Pour vinaigrette
AT THEIR PEAK
into baking dish and whisk into the tomato
FERGUS
4 SERVINGS Eating both the radishes and juices to blend.
WORLD
their leaves is true whole-vegetable dining, Add anchovies and lettuce to bowl
For a slideshow says Henderson. with tomatoes. Drizzle vinaigrette over.
of the Hendersons’ Toss salad to coat (it’s best if you use your
Pile 16–20 scrubbed French breakfast
home and their hands). Season salad to taste with salt
guide to London
radishes with pert green leaves still
and pepper. Sprinkle parsley over and serve.
(where they
attached onto a plate. Set out a bowl of
eat, drink, shop, coarse sea salt and a dish of slightly soft-
and see art), ened best-quality butter. Pick up a radish,
PROP STYLING BY EMMA THOMAS. GROOMING BY LOUISE DARTFORD.
ROAST BONE MARROW WITH
plus a recipe for spread a bit of butter on it, sprinkle with PARSLEY SALAD
Margot’s Orange salt, and eat the radish. Place the leaves in
4 SERVINGS This classic St. John dish uses
Marmalade and a bowl. Drizzle the leaves with ¼ cup Dijon
St. John Bakery veal bones for a more delicate texture  Spinach Gunge alongside (see recipe).
Vinaigrette (see recipe), season to taste
Raisin Loaf, go to and flavor. (“They’ve got youth on their
with salt and pepper, and enjoy as a salad.
bonappetit.com side,” says Fergus.) Ask your butcher for 
/go/hendersons center-cut bones: You don’t want the ends.
When it comes to salt, Fergus uses coarse
DIJON VINAIGRETTE
MAKES ABOUT ¾ CUP gray sea salt here because it maintains
its crunch atop the succulent marrow.
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 tsp. Dijon mustard 8 3"–4"-long pieces veal marrow bones
1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar 1 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley, roughly
1 garlic clove, finely minced chopped
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 small shallots, thinly sliced
Sea salt and freshly ground black (about ⅓ cup)
pepper 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 Tbsp. drained capers
Coarse gray sea salt and freshly ground
black pepper
4 ½"-thick slices rustic white bread,
toasted
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
4 long, thin spoons
Preheat oven to 450°. Place bones, wider
cut side down, in an ovenproof skillet
or roasting pan. Roast bones until marrow
is soft and begins to separate from
bone but before it begins to melt, 15–20
minutes, depending on thickness of bones.
Meanwhile, toss parsley, shallots, oil,
lemon juice, and capers in a medium
bowl to coat. Season salad to taste with
gray sea salt and pepper.
Divide marrow bones and salad among
plates. Serve with toast and gray sea salt.
Using a long, thin spoon, scoop marrow
onto toast, top with salad, and garnish with
a pinch or two of salt.
ROAST SIRLOIN OF BEEF
4 SERVINGS A generous sprinkling of gray
sea salt provides a genuine crust. (For
more on Fergus’s salt philosophy, see Prep
School, page TK.) Slicing the meat against
the grain keeps it juicy.
1 2-lb. 3"–4"-thick top
sirloin or strip loin roast
Gray sea salt and freshly ground black
pepper
2 Tbsp. olive oil
Preheat oven to 425°. Season roast
generously with gray sea salt and pepper.
Heat oil in an ovenproof skillet or a small
roasting pan set over high heat. Add roast
to skillet and brown on all sides, about 3
minutes per side. Transfer skillet to oven
and roast until an instant-read thermometer
inserted into center of roast registers
120° for medium-rare, 40–50 minutes. Tent
with foil; let rest 15 minutes. Thinly slice
roast. Arrange on a platter and sprinkle
with additional gray sea salt. Serve with
SPINACH GUNGE
4 SERVINGS A misleading name for such
a luscious, creamy dish. This creamed
spinach gunges up quite nicely.
¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter
2 lb. fresh spinach, stemmed
1"½ cups (lightly packed) grated Pecorino,
Parmesan, or Manchego cheese
(about 3 oz.)
¼ cup crème fraîche
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
Kosher salt and freshly ground black
pepper
Melt butter in a large pot over medium-high
heat. Working in 4 batches, add spinach to
pot, tossing to wilt between batches. Stir in
cheese, crème fraîche, and mustard. Using an
immersion blender, regular blender, or food
processor, purée spinach mixture until very
smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM
MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS Plan to start making
this truffle-rich ice cream five days before
you serve it, and you’ll be rewarded for the
waiting. It took the chefs at St. John years
to arrive at this recipe. We’re glad they did.
7 oz. dark chocolate
(70% to 75% cacao), finely chopped
2 cups plus 2 Tbsp. whole milk
⅓ cup unsweetened cocoa powder
6 large egg yolks
13 Tbsp. sugar, divided
¼ cup heavy whipping cream
Place chocolate in a medium metal
bowl. Set bowl over a saucepan of barely
simmering water. Stir chocolate until
melted and smooth. Set melted chocolate
aside; let cool slightly.
Whisk milk and cocoa powder in a
medium heavy saucepan over medium
heat until mixture begins to boil; set aside.
Using an electric mixer, beat egg
yolks and 7 Tbsp. sugar in another medium
bowl until very thick ribbons form, about
2 minutes. Whisking constantly, gradually
add hot milk mixture to egg yolk mixture.
Return mixture to saucepan. Add melted
chocolate and whisk to blend. Stir over
low heat until slightly thickened and
an instant-read thermometer registers
175°, about 5 minutes. Transfer chocolate
custard to a large bowl and place over
another large bowl of ice water. Stir until
chocolate custard is cool.
Bring remaining 6 Tbsp. sugar and 2
Tbsp. water to a boil in a small heavy, deep
saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring
until sugar dissolves. Boil, occasionally
swirling pan and brushing down sides
with a wet pastry brush (do not stir), until
a dark amber color forms, about 5 minutes.
Gradually whisk in cream (mixture will
bubble vigorously). Whisk caramel into
chocolate custard. Strain into a large con-
tainer; cover and chill for 2 days.
Process custard in an ice cream machine
according to manufacturer’s instructions.
Transfer to another container; freeze for
3 days before eating. DO AHEAD: Ice cream
can be made 3 days ahead. Keep frozen.
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 O
ST

LET’S TAKE IT OUTSIDE!

MA ER
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G M
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IN UM
OK A S
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WHEN YOU’VE GOT A BUSHEL OF SWEET CORN, A COOLER OF ICED BEER, AND A FIERY GRILL,
WHO NEEDS A KITCHEN? WE SURE DON’T. HERE ARE OUR HARDLY SCIENTIFIC, THOROUGHLY
OPINIONATED RULES FOR COOKING IN THE TASTIEST OF SEASONS

IT WAS A SIMPLE query posed to the
staff of Bon Appétit back on a snowy
February day: How do you cook in the
summer? We were essentially asking:
Tell me everything you believe in and…
wait, hello? Why do you have that
dreamy look on your face? Because
what March is to college hoops fans
and September is to the fashion crowd,
these next few months are to the
food-obsessed, particularly those here
at BA. We wait all year for summer,
when the market is exploding; when
we can stand next to a hot grill, cold
drink in hand, and feel that all is right
with the world. We assume you feel
this way, too. So what follows is a
summary—okay, a manifesto—of 21
NO.
1
rules, philosophies, and, of course,
THE FIRST LAW
recipes that each illustrate one of Bon
Appétit’s central tenets of summer
OF SUMMER EATING :
cooking. Twenty-one may seem like a While we can’t drill down too
lot during the season when the most deep on this data-wise, it’s
important rule should probably be hard to contest the fact that
Relax the Rules. But we want to make food tastes better when
sure you optimize every minute. That’s you eat it outside, preferably
what we’ll be doing, too. using your hands.
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IT’S IMPORTANT TO EMBRACE LAZINESS. When it comes to the behemoths of the summer market (corn,
tomatoes, peaches, watermelon), we encourage you to do nothing. Don’t go drizzling an aged balsamic vinegar over your THE ONLY THING
NO. heirloom Mr. Stripey. A ripe tomato doesn’t need anything but salt and extra-virgin olive oil. (And it might not even need the A GRILLED BURGER
2
NO.
oil.) Don’t shave watermelon into see-through slivers and toss it with feta and basil. (Just cut it into a giant wedge and eat
it.) Save those sous vide short ribs for parka weather, when you’re down to root vegetables and your dinner needs a little
5 NEEDS IS AMERICAN
CHEESE.PERIOD.*
more human intervention. The goal right now is to be as low-key as possible.
DRY RUB
MAKES ABOUT ⅔ CUP

2 tsp. black peppercorns

2 tsp. yellow mustard seeds
* OK, fine. Special Sauce is kinda cool, too
1 tsp. cumin seeds
3 Tbsp. paprika
2 Tbsp. brown sugar SPECIAL SAUCE
TRY THIS
2 tsp. kosher salt MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

Grill a ripe peach, 1 tsp. celery seeds ½ cup mayonnaise

cut side down, and 1 tsp. garlic powder 2 Tbsp. ketchup
top with vanilla ice ½ tsp. cayenne pepper 1 Tbsp. finely grated onion
cream. 1 Tbsp. sweet relish or 1 Tbsp. dill pickle
Stir peppercorns, mustard seeds, relish
and cumin seeds in a small skillet
NO.
4 over medium heat until toasted,
2 tsp. adobo sauce from canned
chipotle chiles in adobo
about 2 minutes. Let cool. Add to ⅛ tsp. celery salt
GO AHEAD, RUB IT IN. There is almost a spice grinder with remaining ⅛ tsp. kosher salt
FH;L?EKIF7=;0JHKDA7H9>?L;$J>?IIFH;7:097HBJED:7L?IșJHKDA7H9>?L;ȓF;79>Ȕ1J;II7JH7;=;HșJHKDA7H9>?L;ȓH7?D8EM9>7H:Ȕ1JECI9>?;HB?JP

no piece of meat—except for a big, fat,
expensive rib eye or porterhouse—that
cannot be improved by a good dry rub.
It’s quick to assemble yet will pay you
back in smoky dividends all summer
long. Here’s our go-to:
ȓJEC7JEI7D:M?9>Ȕ$P79>:;I7HJ<EH8ED7FFxJ?Jȓ9EHD"H?8I"HK8"7D:I7K9;Ȕ1<EE:IJOB?D=8OIKI?;J>;E:EHEK$
ingredients and pulse until finely
ground.
Store in an airtight container
for up to 3 months. For the
Memphis-style ribs recipe, go to
bonappetit.com/ribs.
Combine ingredients in
a medium bowl and
serve with burgers. Earn
bonus points by bringing
a jar to the next cookout.

IF YOU PLANTED IT, RAISED IT, OR HARVESTED IT—EVEN IF IT’S

JUST A TWIG OF THYME—IT’S GOING TO TASTE BETTER THAN IF
NO.
6
NO.

YOU’D BOUGHT IT. 7

NO ONE IS
GOING TO
IMPROVE UPON
THE TOMATO
SANDWICH.

No one—not Alice Waters,

not that Danish guy whose
place was voted Best
Restaurant in the World,
maybe not even God. Put a
few slices of the juiciest
tomato you can find on
your favorite toasted bread
with mayo, a sprinkle of
sea salt, and a couple of
grinds of pepper. Eat
open-face.

3 SPEAKING OF LAZY: DON’T EVEN BOTHER COOKING THAT CORN. If it’s sweet enough, all you have to do
is shuck it, cut the kernels off the cob, toss with lime juice, olive oil, cilantro, and salt and pepper. (No one’s going to
complain if you throw in cherry tomatoes or avocado.)

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PHOTOGRAPHS (LEFT PAGE): CLOCKWISE FROM TOP, MAREN CARUSO/ © 2009 REPRINTED FROM PINTXOS BY GERALD HIRIGOYEN (TEN SPEED); I STOCK PHOTO; CONDÉ NAST DIGITAL STUDIO (4); GETTY IMAGES; CONDÉ NAST DIGITAL STUDIO. PHOTOGRAPHS (RIGHT
NO.
NO DISH YOU MAKE BETWEEN JUNE AND SEPTEMBER SHOULD NEED TO BE SERVED “PIPING HOT.” 14
NO.
8

PAGE): GAMMA-KEYSTONE/ GETTY IMAGES (ST. TROPEZ; GETTY IMAGES (FIRE AND NEWSPAPER); COURTESY CHEFTOOLS.COM (CHIMNEY); COURTSEY COWBOY CHARCOAL. ZACH DESART FOR BON APPÉTIT (FISH); FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU.
BUY A
CHARCOAL GRILL.
GRILLED BRANZINO
WITH LADOLEMONO

2–4 SERVINGS

11 SUCCUMB TO THE GREEK
MARRIAGE OF OLIVE OIL AND
LEMON JUICE. Ladolemono, whisked
together with its one-to-one
acid-to-oil ratio (as opposed to the
usual one-to-three), is a classic Greek
vinaigrette that gives a flash of
brightness to grilled octopus, shrimp,
squid, or the smoky, crispy skin of a
whole branzino. TO MAKE: Whisk
together ¼ cup fresh lemon juice and
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil. Whisk in
kosher salt and freshly ground black
pepper to taste. MAKES ½ CUP.
NO. A FEW THINGS TO AVOID WHEN ENTERTAINING IN THE
2 whole bone-in branzino, cleaned There’s nothing wrong with that 42,000-
BTU rotisserie-smoker-grill, but you
1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
should know that when you use it, you’re
Kosher salt and freshly
not grilling. You’re cooking outside. If you
ground black pepper
want that authentic smokiness or a crispy
½ cup ladolemono (see recipe)
char on your aged strip steak, you’re go-
1 Tbsp. dried oregano, preferably ing to need to build a fire. All you’ll need
Greek to get it started are…
Prepare a grill to medium-high heat.
Brush fish with oil and season skin and
cavity with salt and pepper. Grill fish,
turning once, until cooked through,
about 10 minutes. Transfer to a platter,
drizzle with ladolemono, crumble
oregano over, and serve.
1 bag of 1 charcoal 2 sheets of
hardwood chimney (the newspaper
charcoal one at your to start that
local hardware chimney

12 SUMMER: FORMAL CENTERPIECES, HOT OVENS, SHIRTS. store will do)

Alain Delon and

Brigitte Bardot,
Saint-Tropez, 1968

1 classic Weber
kettle grill
(a 22.5" will
comfortably
grill for a family
of four)

10 ...AND AS LONG AS WE’RE TALKING ABOUT MAGIC COMBINATIONS, when it

comes to certain summery pairings, one plus one can be so much greater than two.
NO.
9 Total cost? Somewhere between $120 and
$200. Which, in the end, is a small price to
pay for the real thing.
EVERYTHING TASTES BETTER
WITH CHILES AND LIME.
This combo makes everything taste 13 YOU’VE GOT THE ROSÉ ON ICE, Three highly drinkable values: 15 A GRILL IS ALSO A STOVE. Think
brighter and fresher. Mix 1 Tbsp. minced RIGHT? We like a good Grüner 1. San Lorenzo 2. Domaine de 3. Castello di about it: That big Weber is really just one
serrano chile or jalapeño (and a few of Veltliner, we enjoy an under-oaked Sirio Cerasuolo Fenouillet Ama Rosato big burner. Some areas give off high heat,
the seeds, depending on your tolerance for Chardonnay, and Sancerre is lovely Montepulciano Côtes du ($15) from others low heat. So while your steak
heat) with the juice from one lime, then with grilled fish. But our favorite d’Abruzzo from Ventoux Rosé Tuscany sizzles, slap down a cast-iron pan with
pour onto a salad of roasted or fresh corn, summer wine? Rosé. It’s so the Adriatic ($13) from the some olive oil, onions, and peppers in it,
add to your most predictable coleslaw, or versatile, so refreshing, and so coast ($5) southern and you’ve just opened up the
ZUCCHINI MINT MELON S A LT GINGER LEMONADE
sprinkle over sushi-grade fish or shellfish. pretty in a short water glass. Rhône Valley possibilities of summer.

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18 SIMPLE SYRUP IS LIQUID GOLD. As

CO

indispensable to your summer culinary life as

IF YOU’RE THROWING A PARTY, CATER TO THE KIDS AT DESSERT TIME…EVEN IF THERE ARE
NO.
17 Rule No. 14. In a saucepan, stir together 1½ cups
NO KIDS. There is no easier way to make people (especially the grown-up kind) happy than passing around pints of
NO.
sugar and 1½ cups water over medium heat
until sugar dissolves. Let cool, then strain, cover, ice cream with a scoop and a plate of sugar cones. Just make sure you spring for the good stuff. (Sprinkles optional.) 20
LET’S PLEASE
NEVER GRILL and chill for 2 hours. (It will keep for 2 weeks.)

16 YOU SHOULD NEVER BE WITHOUT A
JAR OF SALSA VERDE. It’s the ketchup of
summer. Spoon it on grilled lamb or pork
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PORTOBELLO To 2.0 it, bring to a simmer with grated peeled
MUSHROOMS fresh ginger, basil leaves (yes, we used purple
AGAIN. basil here), lavender, or mint and let steep for
30 minutes. Strain before pouring into a jar. Add
to Gin and Tonics, iced tea, lemonade, or sorbet
SERVE THIS
and granita bases.
While we’re banning

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chops, grilled eggplant or swordfish. things, how about we all A mix of ice creams
and sorbets will
agree to leave the
satisfy everyone’s
following Sunday-BBQ
craving (and diet).
SALSA VERDE standards in the last
MAKES 1½ CUPS century: cold fusilli salad
with grilled vegetables;
1 garlic clove, chopped plain grilled chicken
6 oil-packed anchovy fillets, chopped breasts; cheese platters
(optional) going soft in the sun;
1½ Tbsp. capers, rinsed and chopped crudités and dip. And no
1 Fresno chile or red jalapeño, more skewers threaded
stemmed, seeded, minced with different ingredients
4 cups loosely packed fresh flat-leaf requiring different
parsley leaves, finely chopped cooking times. Those
2 cups loosely packed fresh mint kebabs are always
leaves, finely chopped disasters. Always.
1 cup loosely packed fresh cilantro
leaves, finely chopped
1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt (optional)
Combine garlic, anchovies, capers, and chile NO.
in a mortar or food processor. Pound with a
pestle or process until a chunky paste forms.
19
COLD FUSILLI
Add herbs and stir to combine. Remove SALAD
pestle or transfer paste to a bowl. Using a
WHEN IT COMES TO MEAT, COOK
fork, slowly whisk in oil to make sauce.
MORE THAN YOU NEED.
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Season to taste with salt, if desired. Let stand Nobody ever regretted having four too many EKH;:?JEHI¿
steaks, BBQ chicken legs, lamb burgers, or pork J?FIEDIKCC;H
at room temperature for 30 minutes while 9EEA?D=5=EJE
flavors meld. DO AHEAD: Sauce can be made bellies left over from a Sunday barbecue. This BONAPPETIT
.COM/GO/
1 week ahead. Cover and chill. Bring to room rule does not apply to fish: no one’s gonna SUMMERCOOKING
temperature and stir before serving. PORTOBELLO touch a day-old piece of mackerel.

GRILL TOOLS SA L A D S P I N N E R COLEMAN COOLER G R I L L BAS K ET

You want long, strong Freshly snipped greens To make sure your The best way to keep
NO.
21 tongs; a long, strong mean one thing: You’re Rule No. 13s are chilled, your asparagus, skinny
metal spatula; and a going to need to give of course! For more scallions, shrimp, and
YOU DON’T good grill brush. Rosle those leaves a thorough coolers, see page TK. marshmallows from
NEED MUCH 3-piece barbecue set, $105; washing. Oxo salad spinner, 54-qt. stainless-steel cooler, falling to a smoky death.
rosleusa.com $30; oxo.com $220; coleman.com Simply Grilling nonstick
We promise you: that
grilling basket, $20; cuisinart
2-in-1 BBQ brush that
.com, or pick one up at your
dispenses sauce will
local hardware store
end up in the
kitchen-equipment
graveyard, but these
essential tools of
summer never will.

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