Sarajevo

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SARAJEVO
Autumn 2009
Olympic City
The host of the 84 Winter Games has reopened for business
MESS Festival
Sarajevos 49th International Theatre Festival
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Contents
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Contents
Arriving in Sarajevo The Basics
Food, history, language and more 5 6 11 15 16 21
Culture & Events Sports Where to stay
Sarajevos upcoming festivals
Luxurious suites to backpacker haunts
Dining & Nightlife

Where to eat Vegetarians beware Cafs The citys social centres Nightlife Be prepared to see sunrise
24 25
Pigeon Square in Baarija
Sightseeing
What to see 28 Mosques, churches and synagogues, oh my!
Around Sarajevo
Visokos mysterious pyramids
29 33 39 40 42 44 45 46 48 Autumn 2009
Getting around
Local, domestic and international transport
Mail, phones & internet

Keep in touch
Shopping
The best of what and where to buy
Directory Maps & Index

Street index City centre map City map Country map
Twisting Avaz Tower
sarajevo.inyourpocket.com
foreWord
The heart of Bosnia and Herzegovina is the capital Sarajevo, once a heart-broken, torn and demolished city it has risen above its recent history to once more welcome visitors with its centuries-old tradition of hospitality. This vibrant city can penetrate as deep into the travellers soul as it does for residents. With a population of about 400,000 Sarajevo makes full use of its abundance of bustling cafs, local eateries and handicraft shops. One of its unique features, something that has led to it being termed the Jerusalem of Europe, is its religiously diverse citizenry. Indeed, few places on earth feature an Orthodox and a Catholic church, a mosque and a synagogue within walking distance of each other. A city with characteristics of the East (enriched by the Byzantine and Ottoman empires) and the West (the Roman, Venetian and Austro-Hungarian empires), Sarajevo holds a central charm that visitors feel, encompassing the best of both worlds. The towering tree- and house-studded hilltops that connect to the Dinaric Alps surround the city in its valley setting, while the Miljacka River running through the centre provides a secluded, private and magical atmosphere. Just a few miles out of Sarajevo, the regions largest and most popular mountains are crowded during the winter season with skiers and hikers coming from all over the country and abroad. The city itself encompasses four quarters: the old town (Baarija), the new town, the centre and New Sarajevo. Each district provides every traveller endless opportunities for relaxation, vigorous sightseeing and, above all, the unique experiences gained as you share this city with Sarajevos locals.
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Sarajevo has always been known for its fresh clean drinking water, and in previous centuries numerous fountains and Sebiljs - larger and more ornate kiosk-shaped fountains - could be found all over the city. Today, roughly one-tenth of the fountains remain, while the only Sebilj still standing is the one pictured here, which is located in Baarija.
Our team in Russia is preparing a rather special In Your Pocket guide right now to tie in with the 1150th aniversary of the city of Velikiy Novgorod. Look out for a special supplement in our next Russian guides and online at russia. inyourpocket.com. Elsewhere, you can now get your hands on Sarajevo In Your Pocket when visiting the Bosnian capital, and the same team - who have successfully pocketed Slovenia and Bosnia - are now turning their attention to Italy, and to Venice. We welcome enquiries from anyone who would like to take part in our Pocket Revolution, either by contributing content or starting up an IYP. Send us an email at publisher@inyourpocket.com.
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Text and photos copyright PIYP s.r.o. 2000-2006. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Sarajevo In Your Pocket ESTV d.o.o. Bosnia and Herzegovina sarajevo@inyourpocket.com bihac@inyourpocket.com banjaluka@inyourpocket.com mostar@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1840-4901 ESTV d.o.o. Published 3 times per year 20.000 copies
Editorial Editor Yuri Barron Writers Yuri Barron, Ian Rohr, Christian Jennings Researcher Mersiha Drinjakovic, Emina Becic, Amra Usanovic Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaite Consulting Craig Turp Photos Dejan Vekic and John Roberts Maps Emir Haracic Management Directors Igor Blaha dipl.ecc & Niko Slavnic M.sc Executive Director: Zinaida Ilaria Tel.: + 387 61 144 310 Marketing, PR and operations management: ZI Public Relations Consultancy Tel.: + 387 33 228 616
Editors note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.
Sarajevo In Your Pocket
arriving in saraJevo
By bus
Both of Sarajevos bus stations are busy places, especially the main one near the train station which serves the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina and most international destinations. If you arrive here you can get a tram (number 1) or bus into the centre or grab a cab for around 5-6 KM. There is also an ATM here and a few cafs and bars nearby if the journey has been long, gruelling or both.If you are coming from or heading to a destination in the Republika Srpska, Serbia proper or Montenegro you will arrive at or depart from Lukavica (aka Istochno Sarajevo) bus station in east Sarajevo. This station is on the fringes of the city and you can either get a taxi into town (about 25 KM) or a bus from the local terminal which is about a 200 metre walk from the station. Cash can be obtained from the machine at the nearby TOM shopping centre. Signage at this bus station is predominately in Cyrillic script. If you are getting a taxi to the bus station make sure your driver knows which one you want - you can do this by explaining your destination to him.
By car
Sarajevos roads are much improved from a few years ago but this in turn may have contributed to the ever-increasing volume of traffic. Coming in and out of town is fairly straightforward with good signposting to the Centar but once in the heart of town non-local drivers need to contend with narrow streets, lots of one-way and No Entry roads and the local drivers, who tend to be impatient behind the wheel and dont mind using their horn to give a blast to anyone too slow to respond to a changed traffic signal. Those used to congested inner-cities wont find it too much of a problem but the more hesitant may be best to leave the car parked at or near their hotel and use public transport, taxis and foot-power for getting around, all of which are less stressful and will give you the opportunity to see and experience a lot more than if you are gripping the wheel and gritting your teeth. This also gets rid of the problem of finding somewhere to park in the car-crowded centre. Drivers are required by law to have their headlights on at all times. This is mainly for safety reasons and when you enter one of Bosnias long tunnels youll be glad it is so. Another safety factor to bear in mind is that roads can be hazardous during the winters, with ice, fog and snow providing a challenge to all but the most experienced of mountainous terrain in winter drivers.
Jahornina in autumn
By train
Bosnias rail infrastructure was badly damaged during the war and has yet to return to pre-war levels of operation. Most international visitors arriving by train will be coming from Zagreb or Budapest on the daily trains which arrive at 18:30 and 6:25 respectively. There is also a train to and from Ploe on the southern coast of Croatia which is worth looking into as the journey, via Mostar, is very scenic. Sarajevos train station is right near the bus station and you can get into the heart of town via a bus, tram or 5-6 KM taxi ride. There is no ATM at the station but there is one about 200 metres away at the bus station - just turn right when you come out of the station, go around and past the main post office and the bus station is straight ahead.
Tourist information
K r e ev l j a kov i a 3 , t e l . (+387) 33 20 83 40, fax (+387) 33 20 83 41, grad@ sarajevo.ba, www.sarajevo. ba, www.sarajevo-tourism. com. This agency provides travel-related information on Sarajevo and its vicinity to domestic and foreign visitors, as well as to domestic tour operators and their partner tourist agencies from abroad. Tourism Community of FB &H Branilaca Sarajeva, no 21/II, tel. (+387) 33 252 928, fax (+387) 33 252 901, media@tourism.ba, www. bhtourism.ba.
Sarajevo City Administration Hamdije
By plane
Sarajevo airport (International Airport Butmir) is small and rarely too busy, helping it avoid the long baggage, immigration and customs queues that plague many of Europes other capital city airports. It has the facilities found at most airports including tourist information and currency exchange, a bar and cafe, an ATM and a souvenir shop. There is no regular scheduled bus service to the centre so your best bets are to either prearrange a transfer through your hotel or grab a cab - there are usually quite a few lined up outside and the 12km trip will cost about 20-25 KM (10-12.50). As with all international airports, its not unheard of for taxi drivers to overcharge for a ride into town, especially if youre a foreigner - make sure the metre is switched on before you depart.
Tourist Community for the Sarajevo District
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Branilaca Sarajeva 21/IV, tel. (+387) 33 25 02 00/(+387) 33 25 02 02, fax (+387) 33 25 02 04, tour.off@bih.net.ba, www.sarajevo-tourism. com. Info point (airport): Open: 10-17h, MondayThursday, 12-17h Friday-Sunday QOpen , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu 10:00 - 17:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.
Autumn 2009
BasiCs
Learn about the facts and figures, the habits and attitudes of people and a little bit of Bosanski for a full filling time in Sarajevo.
Price Level
McDonalds Big Mac (There is no McDonalds restaurant for that matter) Loaf of white bread Snickers bar Litre of vodka Bottle of local beer (1/2 liter) Pack of Marlboros Public transport ticket Roll of Kodak 200 speed film, 24 exposures in Sarajevo or BiH 0.90 KM 1 KM 15 KM 1.15 KM 3.30 KM 1.80 KM 2 KM
Disabled travellers
Bigger shopping centeres in the city offer disabled facilities, including toilets and so does the main post office in the centre of the city. Pedestrian crossings in the city have dropped kerbs, and large intersections in the centre are equipped with sound signalling systems. Most restaurants and cafs are inaccessible to disabled patrons, and hardly any offer toilet facilities for the disabled.
Money & Exchange

The Bosnian currency is the Convertible Mark (KM), which was introduced in 1998. Coins come in the following denominations: 0.05, 0.10 0.20, 0.50, 1, 2 and 5. Banknotes come in denominations of 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200. Since 11 October 2001 the Convertible Mark has been tied to the Euro at a rate of 0.51129 = KM1 You can change money at banks or any post office. The differences in exchange rates are negligible. Most banks in Sarajevo will change travellers cheques, American Express, Thomas Cook, VISA and Eurocheques. Western Union money transfers from abroad can be collected from the post office and most banks. You can find ATMs of the major banks present in the country all over the city. Cards widely acceptable in Sarajevo are VISA, VISA Electron, MasterCard, Maestro, Diners Club and American Express. You can buy almost all goods and services with credit cards. You will need cash for green markets, some small shops and bars, kiosks, parking fees and taxis.
Security
Touch wood, Sarajevo is a safe and secure city, a million miles away from its wartime past. Bosnian people are welcoming, friendly to and tolerant of foreigners - theyve had thousands of them in their country for fifteen years - and its an engagingly safe place. Taxis are cheap, women walk home, the city-centre and environs are friendly and largely secure. Outside of some of its more deprived and isolated suburbs and quarters, Sarajevo is one of the safest cities in Europe. Obviously, normal, basic safety precautions should be observed, but, for instance, any fights in or outside pubs, bars and clubs are extremely rare. The occasional presence on the streets of Roma exploiting their children as begging accoutrements is an unavoidable let-down common everywhere in the region - except in Kosovo where they are still largely too afraid of violence to leave their settlements. Best not to give them money - it goes not to their well-being but their parents grubby pockets. And on the other end of the spectrum, the vibrant organized crime scene in Bosnia means that some real organized gang violence is mostly confined to the occasional shooting and car-bombing in the cities suburbs.
Basic data
Countrys population: 4,590,310 (July 2008) (48 %
Bosniaks, 37.1 % Serbs, 14.3 % Croats and 0.6 % others) Sarajevos population: 402,000 Surface: Total 51,209km2 Longest river: Drina, 346km Highest mountain peak: Maglic, 2386m Land boundaries: 1,459 Borders with adjoining country: Montenegro - 225km, Croatia - 932km, Serbia - 302km
Smoking
In terms of smoking, it is safest, as with bars, to assume that everywhere you will visit in Sarajevo is a smoking zone, be it bars, restaurants, cafes, clubs or hotels, except where very strictly classified otherwise. This reviewer, for instance, once watched all three female staff at a health-club smoke while on-duty. A very high percentage of Bosnians smoke, both men and women, and a great deal of teenagers too. Despite vague and inaudible efforts to adhere to forthcoming EU policy once Bosnia eventually joins the Union, the idea of not being able to smoke anywhere in Bosnia would, rather nicely, be considered sacrilegious by much of its population. It is perfectly common to see people smoking in restaurants while others are eating at the same table, many people smoke half-way through a course, and the whole country is delightfully free of the smoking regulations so common in much of the rest of Europe and North America.
Politics:
Bosnia and Herzegovina is an emerging federal democratic republic. The Council of Ministers of BiH is the head of government. Date of next local elections: General Elections in 2010. Members of the Presidency: Haris Silajdzic, Zeljko Komsic and Nebojsa Radmanovic Chairman of the Council of Ministers: Nikola Spiric Governing party: multi-party system
Local time:
National holidays
January 1 - New Year, (all offices closed) March 1 - Independence day (all offices closed - only in Federation of BiH) May 1 - International Labor Day (all offices and majority of businesses closed) November 25 - National day (all offices closed)
Sarajevo is in the Central European Time Zone: GMT + 1 hours (in winter), GMT + 2 during daylight saving time.
BasiCs
Tourists, back-packers, visitors and business travellers should be aware that this is a full-on smoking country, and that any complaints by outsiders about cigarette smoke and the perils thereof will be met with total derision and scornful laughter by both Bosnians and foreigners who live there. and the occasional shredded building that has not been renovated or demolished are all around you. Look down at the pavement when you walk: youll see many a familiar shape of a large bears paw, the residue of an explosive mortar impact on the ground: fading, pink plastic has been poured into some of them to preserve the shape for posterity, sites that are known as Sarajevo roses. The war in Bosnia saw 100,000 people die, a million people displaced or turned into refugees before NATO troops, and massive international humanitarian intervention, flooded into Bosnia to try and re-construct the country after the Dayton Peace Accords were signed in 1995.
War
Take a walk through the centre of Sarajevo, and even fifteen years after the war ended in 1995, bullet-holes, pockmarked pavements hit by mortar and artillery blasts,
Language
Pronunciation as in ship as in cello as in pleasure in jam d as in enjoy Niceties & Necessities Yes - Da No - Ne Good - Dobro Please - Molim Thank you - Hvala Sorry! - Izvini Good morning - Dobro jutro Good day - Dobar dan Hello - Zdravo Good night - Laku no Excuse me! - Oprostite How are you? - Kako si? Practicalities When? - Kada? Where? - Gdje? Who? - Ko? Why? - Zato? I have... - Ja imam I am... - Ja sam Whats your name? - Kako se zove? My name is... - Zovem se Im from... - Ja sam iz ...UK - Velike Britanije ...USA - Sjedinjenih Amerikih Drava I dont understand - Ne razumijem I dont speak Bosnian - Ja ne govorim bosanski How much does this cost? - Koliko kota? Signs Open - Otvoreno Closed - Zatvoreno Entrance - Ulaz Exit - Izlaz Push - Gurni Pull - Vuci Numbers 0 - nula 2 - dva 4 - etiri 6 - est 8 - osam 10 - deset 50 - pedeset 1 - edan 3 - tri 5 - pet 7 - sedam 9 - devet 20 - dvadeset 100 - sto Days Monday - ponedjeljak Tuesday - utorak Wednesday - srijeda Thursday - etvrtak Friday - petak Saturday - subota Sunday - nedjelja Months January - januar February - februar March - mart April - april May - maj June - juni July - juli August - avgust September - septembar October - oktobar November - novembar December - decembar Time Now - sada Later - kasnije Today - danas Tomorrow - sutra Yesterday - jue In the morning - ujutro In the afternoon - poslijepodne In the evening - navee At night - nou Restaurant talk Waiter! - Konobar! A table for two - Sto za dvoje Non-smoking / smoking - nepuaka zona / puaka zona The menu please - Meni/jelovnik, molim Vas Id like to order - elim da naruim Do you have vegetarian food? - Sluite li vegetarijansku hranu? Surprise me! - Iznenadite me The bill, please - Raun, molim Vas Bar talk One coffee, please - Jednu kafu, molim Vas A beer, please - Pivo, molim Vas Cheers! - ivjeli! You have beautiful eyes - Ima lijepe oi Can I have your number - Mogu li dobiti tvoj broj telefona?
Autumn 2009
BasiCs
A word from the mayor
ries dating back to the Ottoman Empire or Austrian rule. They can listen to the whisper of the past and perhaps one day personally talk about the warm, welcoming people and about a city where dreams and reality meet. This walk will open wide all the doors of the past, and every corner will tell its remarkable story, from the crowded streets to the silence and shade of Sarajevos gardens. The idea of publishing this type of guide dates back several years. The aim was to enable easier access to information required to take you through the diversity of the city of Sarajevo. The guide contains useful tips and directions to places of interest as well as an overview of the city scene. In order to realise the idea of the city guide a wait was required for the segments of the past and the present to join. Today Sarajevo is a continously expanding modern cosmopolitan centre where new and imposing buildings rise. Thanks to events such as the Sarajevo Film Festival, Jazz Festival and Baarkijske Noi Festival, Sarajevo has become an international metropolis of modern art and culture. To this day diversity, opposing views, innovative ideas, different cultures and generations, old and new architecture and old and new art flows all join up in Sarajevo. The citizens of Sarajevo create that distinct city feel and the key link enabling the harmonization of differences. However, Sarajevo does not belong to its citizens only but to all those who consider it their own and who visit it with good intentions. Dr Alija Behmen
Welcome to Sarajevo, a city of diversity and friendship. Throughout its history, Sarajevo has witnessed numeous changes. As a kind of a link between the East and the West, as a meeting place of different cultures, ideas and customs, Sarajevo has retained each sequence of its past, each mark of the times and rulers that walked these lands. A walk through the heart of the city simultaneaously becomes a walk through all the periods of the citys existence. Every visitor can daydream about the sto-
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Bosnian Cuisine
If you like meat, youll love Bosnia and Herzegovina. Meat is a standard for any meal. However, there is still lots of interesting meals you can make do if you are a vegetarian. A typical breakfast is very different from a traditional English, American or Australian breakfast, but they can be found in the occasional restaurant. Omlettes, hams, eggs and cheeses are very popular and can be found even in most places. For budget travelers the large supermarkets carry fruit yogurt, muesli, and juices and the open markets are always filled with fresh fruit. Bakeries open early and sell hot rolls, croissants, brown bread, apple and cherry strudles which you can take to a cafe and enjoy with a Cevapi sa kajmakom morning cappucino. All travellers should at some point enter a buregdzenica and Cheeses are also prepared and strained in a variety of try the famous traditional pita dishes of burek, zeljanica, ways and are absolutely delicious. The vegetarian traveller sirnica, and krompirusa. They are all made from scratch will have a hell of a time getting through these which can and have been a traditional meal since Ottoman times. ordered as a large starter or side dish in restaurants, Burek is a meat pie wrapped in filo-dough. The zeljanica bought in supermarkets or at the market where is has is made from spinach and cheese. Sirnica is made from a been freshly and naturally prepared. fresh, homemade cheese and krompirusa is diced potatoes with spices. Usually one portion (porcija) is enough to stuff Travnicki a white, feta-like cheese from the Travnik district you. A porcija costs between 2-3KM. They may ask if you in central Bosnia. It is a bit salty and very popular with like pavlaka spread on top. Pavlaka is a fresh cream that meze, which is the tradition of slow drinking and eating tastes wonderful with the pita. Thin yogurt is also a popular throughout the course of a whole day. drink alongside your pita. Meat eating travellers should try out the wide range of Vlaicki similar to travnicki cheese. It is a highland available meats and should not miss the typical rostiljnica cheese from the mountain villages on Vlaic Mountain in that serves up a range of grilled meats specialities. central Bosnia. Whether chicken, beef, lamb, or pork, they come fresh from the mountainside. It is common practice here to raise all Livanjski is more similar to the dry yellow cheeses of animals free range, and with no hormones or chemicals. Dalmatia. It is very tasty and usually more expensive than Most people say they can taste the difference. others. It originates from the west Bosnian town of Livno. Mladi Sir literally means young cheese. There isnt an Here is a list of the most popular traditional dishes: equivalent to it in English. It has a soft texture and is unsalted. Often times it is served with a cream sauce on top. It is very healthy. Cevapi small meat sausages of lamb and beef mix. They Kajmak is the most difficult of all cheeses to translate. are usually served with fresh onions and pita bread on the It is the top layer skimmed from milk, it is creamy and side. Cevapi usually come in pointer finger size sausages extremely tasty. Kajmak and ustipak (doughnut type roll) and are offered by five or ten pieces. is a wonderful appetizer. Teletina is veal, usually served in cutlets. Veal in BiH Iz mjeha sheep milk poured into a specially sewn sheep is not produced by locking calves in a cage to ensure skin bag. After a time the dry cheese is taken out of the softer meat. skin container and the result is a strong, dry cheese that resembles real parmesan. Jagnjetina lamb grilled over an open fire. Musaka a meat pie made of minced beef, very similar to shepherds pie. Filovane paprike fried peppers stuffed with minced meat and spices. Prut air dried ham, similar to italian proscuitto. Suduk beef sausages with a similar form to pepperoni. Suho Meso dried meat, either beef or pork. Sarme meat and rice rolled in cabbage or grape leaves. Ispod Saca similar to a dutch oven. A metal dish is placed on hot coals, the food is placed in the dish and covered by a lid which is then completely covered in hot coals and left to bake. Inat Kua is a great place to sample traditional Bosnian fare
Autumn 2009
10
history
Sarajevo is the administrative and cultural capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Situated at the far southern end of the Dinaric Alps, it lies between the mountains of Romanija, Bjelanica, Igman and Trebevi, and through it flows the narrow, shallow Miljacka River, which rises close to Pale, five miles due east of the city. First Settlements Sarajevo is stretched across an area known as Sarajevo Field, and there are numerous archeological findings attesting to settlements in this area dating back to the Neolithic period, as well as records that point to a significant Ilyiran presence in the area. A primary Neolithic site was found at Butmir, outside Sarajevo. Ilyrian tribes flourished in the region from about 1,000 BC until their final conquest by the Romans around 9AD. For the Romans, with their aggressive, commercially-oriented and warlike policy of spreading the Pax Romana, the mountainous country that lay just next door to them became a source of mineral wealth, particularly silver. Spread of Christianity Between 6-800 AD arrived the Slavs, there was widespread conversion to Christianity, and the next five hundred years saw Bosnia at the focal point of influence through varying periods of conquest, control and administration by Serbs, Hungarians, Byzantines and Croats. The medieval town of Hodidjed was located in the vicinity of todays Sarajevo; however, the actual name of the city, which comes from the Turkish words saray and ovasi, meaning court and field respectively, indicates that Sarajevo is a creation of the Ottoman Empire. The Ottomans Bosnia had starting emerging as an independent state since the mid-1100s, and became a kingdom under King Tvrtko the 1st in 1377, just as the Turks started their foray into the country, presaging the Ottoman invasion which took place between 1430 to 1592, when the last town in Bosnia - Bihac - fell into Turkish hands. The country was now part of the Ottoman Empire, and just in case there was any question that the countrys religious mix of Orthodox, Christianity and the indigenous Bosnian church was not sufficient, Islam joined the fray. Sarajevo became one of the most powerful cities in the Turks new frontier territories, and although the capital moved twice, to Banja Luka and Travnik, Sarajevo remained the nerve-centre. Sarajevo was founded in the mid 15th century by the Ottoman governor of Bosnia - Isa-bey Ishakovic - to house the areas Ottoman government. Anyone strolling through Sarajevo will easily notice the citys three distinct parts, each of which are reflective of the historical period in which it was built. The initial expansion of the city occurred during the first 150 years or so of Ottoman rule. Many of the citys architectural gems were built during this period, such as Gazi Husrev Beys and The Emperors Mosques. Baarija - the citys once-great bazaar - was also constructed during the same period. By the beginning of the 17th century, Sarajevo grew into a vibrant community of artisans and an important merchant trading post, as well as one of the most significant cities in the European part of the Ottoman Empire. In 1697 Sarajevo was attacked and burnt by Prince Eugene of Savoy, the final of series of unremitting attacks by the Hapsburgs and the Venetians. The Ottomans moved the capital to Travnik, and Sarajevo started to refuse to accept governors sent from Istanbul. This independent, self-determining and occasionally bloody-mindedness of spirit was to become a core feature of the citys identity, most recently surfacing during the four-year siege of the city from 1992-1995. Austro-Hungarian Rule The citys second architectural expansion started following the Austro-Hungarian occupation in the late 19th century and lasted until the beginning of World War I in 1914, after the 1878 treaty of Berlin gave the Austro-Hungarian Empire a mandate to administer Bosnia. The city was modernized during this period. Austro-Hungarians established the citys first public transportation system and the first telephone lines. Many cultural and educational institutions were founded in this period as well. The National (Land) Museum, the First Sheriate Law High School and the National Theatre. Sarajevo City Hall, Ashkenazi Synagogue, and Catholic Cathedral were also added to the expanding city. The growth of Sarajevo was interrupted on June 28, 1914 when Gavrilo Princip assassinated AustroHungarian Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sophia during their visit to Sarajevo, setting off the chain of events that led to the start of World War I. Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes Following the Treaty of Versailles in 1918 that ended World War I, Sarajevo, along with Bosnia and Herzegovina, became a part of the newly-formed Kingdom of Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes. It remained within the later-renamed Kingdom of Yugoslavia until the beginning of World War II, when the monarchy was abolished and, following the end of the war, the new socialist Yugoslavia was created. Yugoslavia and Socialism The general plan for development of Sarajevo was adopted in 1945, and the city that suffered tremendous losses during World War II under the Germans expanded. German occupation had started in 1941, and Bosnia was assimilated into an atrocious Croatian Ustasha nationalist entity, where multiple atrocities were carried out, particularly against Serbs, many of which took place at the notorious Jasenovac concentration camp south of Zagreb where between 50-70,000 people, mainly Serbs, were slaughtered. In 1943 Josep Brod Tito, leading the Bosnian partisans on covert operations in the mountain fastnesses of the centre of the country, established the basis of the post-war Yugoslavia, of which Bosnia would be one of six republics. Subsequent to the war, Sarajevo was not only rebuilt but considerably expanded as well. It almost tripled in size during its third expansion which took place during the formative years of socialist Yugoslavia. By 1984, when the city hosted the 14th Winter Olympic Games, Sarajevo was a modern capital city of around 500,000 people. Looking Back Talk to Bosnians about the Tito era, and it is fondly remembered as a halcyon period set in a kind of aspic of nostalgia, of benevolent socialism, when everybody had a car, a state apartment, holidays on the coast every year, and life was a given. Yes and no, is the answer. The dream was founded on political repression and kept alive by wildly unrealistic economic planning and strategies, based on much heavy foreign borrowing. But for most people, it functioned, Tito kept nationalism at bay, and the country appeared to prosper. It was during this period that Sarajevo developed a reputation as something of a cultural centre, a party town, and acquired the rather clichd adjective that is so often used to describe it: cosmopolitan. But it was a tougher, fiercely independent and more gutsy series of characteristics that was to carry it through the years of the 1992-1995 war.
Culture & events

Sarajevo brims with an affordable and diverse cultural life. It is proudly host to the Sarajevo Film Festival, which in fact in one of the most important in south eastern Europe. Festivals, performances, concerts and events are happening in and around town almost all the time so be sure to keep an eye (or an ear) out for some cultural entertainment. Vrooom City Pub 9 December 2009
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Festivals
Agro Food Skenderija Centre, tel. (+387) 33 21 73
27. Sarajevos inaugural eco-food fair runs from 18 - 21 December, and includes tastings and competitions as well as various lectures, conferences and round-table discussion with participants from Bosnia and abroad.
Music events
Terminal Festival - electronic music Various venues 9 - 12 October 2009 Hladno Piva Dom Mladih, Skenderija 23 October French Hardcore Night Klub AG 27 October Concierto de Aranjuez by J. Rodrigo National Theatre 30 October Halloween with Lutzenkirchen Skenderija 31 October 2009 Anouar Brahem Bosnian Cultural Centre 4 November 2009 S.A.R.S. Coloseum Club 7 November Analena OKC Abrasevic 4 December Analena Access Club 5 December
Baarijske Noi Dalmatinska 2/1, tel. (+387)
33 20 79 29/(+387) 33 20 79 72, fax (+387) 33 207 921, sarajevoar t@bih.net.ba, w w w.bascarsijskenoci.ba. Baarija Nights is the tradi tional summer festival that takes place each year for the entire month of July on Sarajevos streets, squares, theaters, and galleries. The festi val offers ballets and theater performances, exhibits, concerts of popular and classical music, and special programs for children and youth. Q Free admission.
International Theater Festival (MESS) B-3, Marala
Tita 54/1, tel. (+387) 33 20 03 92/(+387) 33 21 19 72, fax (+387) 33 21 19 72, mess@mess.ba, www.mess. ba. The International Theater Festival (MESS) has been held since the 1960s. The event attracts various international theatre groups as well as some of the most prestigious names of theatre. MESS is the perfect opportunity to watch masterpieces of performing arts at a low price, and usually without advance reservations. This year it runs from 16 - 27 October, and will feature 26 performances by ensembles from 14 countries. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Sarajevo Film Festival B-4, Zelenih Beretki 12/I,

tel. (+387) 33 22 15 16, fax (+387) 33 26 33 81, info-sff@sff.ba, www.sff.ba. The Sarajevo Film Festival (SFF) is the most prestigious film festival in south eastern Europe, and aims to support and promote the art of film within the region. The festival has a distinctly international character and seems to have increased in both scale and notoriety each year since it was first held in 1995. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Sarajevo Jazz Fest

Potanski Pretinac 600, tel. (+387) 33 55 04 80/(+387) 61 26 71 14, fax (+387) 33 55 04 81, info@jazzfest. ba, www.jazzfest.ba. The international music festival Jazz Fest has been held since 1996. Every year Jazz Fest hosts some of the most prestigious jazz musicians from around the world. If you are in Sarajevo in November, dont miss it.
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Culture & events

Culture Department of the Spanish Embassy
ekalua 14, tel. (+387) 33 223 331/(+387) 33 278 560, fax (+387) 33 278 582, ofcult@bih.net.ba. Part of the Spanish Embassy, the cultural department organizes events related to Spanish and Latin American culture. Ask here also for Spanish language courses. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00 & 15:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Goethe Institut B-5, Bentbaa 1a, tel. (+387) 33 570 000, fax (+387) 33 570 030, info@sarajevo.goethe. org, www.goethe.de/sarajevo. The cultural centre from Germany organizes german language courses, exhibitions, concerts and so on relating to German culture. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Islamic Republic of Iran Culture Centre Ferhadija 2, tel. (+387) 33 711 055. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Turkish Cultural Information Centre B-4, Mula Mustafe Baeskije do 31, tel. (+387) 33 271 150. Movies on Tuesdays at 17:00 (English subtitles). QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
La Boheme at the National Theatre
Sarajevska Zima (Sarajevo Winter) Marala Tita 9a,
tel. (+387) 33 20 79 45/(+387) 33 20 79 48, fax (+387) 33 20 79 48, ibrosa@bih.net.ba, www.sarajevskazima. ba. Sarajevo Winter has become a traditional gathering of artists from all over the world ever since it was first held in 1984 during the XIV Winter Olympic Games. The program features concerts, exibitions in galleries and museums, theater plays. There is something for everyone.
Galleries
Collegium Artisticum A-2, Terezije bb (Centar Skenderija), tel. (+387) 33 270 750/(+387) 33 204 352, fax (+387) 33 270 751, cagalerija@open.net.ba, www. collegium.ba. Formed in 1975, Collegium Artisticum provided a gallery and meeting place for the nations three premier art associations. Operating throughout the war years, the Collegium remains a gathering venue for many of the citys artists and intellectuals and has been involved in a range of cultural programmes that cover the arts in all their forms. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Cinemas
Apolo Mis Irbina 2, tel. (+387) 33 44 52 01. Multiplex Cinema City Titova 26, tel. (+387) 33
228 008, fax. (+387) 33 228 008, info@cinemacity. ba, www.cinemacity.ba Unitic Fra Anela Zvizdovia 1, tel. (+387) 33 29 50 01. QOpen 18:00 - 20:30.
Concert Halls
Sarajevo Arts Agency Dalmatinska 2/I, tel. (+387) 33
20 79 29/(+387) 33 20 79 21, fax (+387) 33 20 79 72, koncagsa@bih.net.ba, www.sarajevoarts.ba. The Sarajevo Arts Agency organises a variety of concerts and festivals around Sarajevo and the rest of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Sarajevo Philharmonic B-4, Obala Kulina 9, tel. (+387) 33 66 65 19/(+387) 33 66 65 20, fax (+387) 33 66 65 21. The Sarajevo Philharmonic Orchestra is able to trace its roots back to before World War I, when serious musicians in the region were engaged in military instrumental music and other ensembles such as the Military Music Orchestra, the Student Orchestra of the Great Gymnasium of Sarajevo, the Musical Choir for Violins, of the Serbian vocal association Sloga, and Mannergesangverein, a musical society comprised of Austrian officials.
Galerija 10m ((Camille Laurelli)) B-4, Stakleni
Grad, Ferhadija 17, tel. (+387) 63 95 21 97/(+387) 61 917 037. Q Thu-Sun 14:00-19:00, closed Mon-Wed
Retrospectrum B-4, Zelenih Beretki 8, tel. (+387) 33
266 550, fax (+387) 33 664 162, ugbih@yahoo.com. Q Tue-Sat 12:00-20:00, closed Sun & Mon
Theatres
Sarajevo Youth Theatre B-3, Kulovia 8, tel. (+387)
33 44 25 72, fax (+387) 33 20 57 99, pozmladi@bih. net.ba, www.pozoristemladih.ba. Formed in 1997, the Sarajevo Youth Theatre was the result of a merger between two other theatre groups for young people that had been in existence since 1950. It has won numerous accolades and awards and some of its members have gone to become amongstBosnias best-known performers. As their website says, Sarajevos Youth Theatre has been and has remained a theatre for all generations. SARTR (Sarajevo War Theatre) emalua 1, tel. (+387) 33 66 40 70. Often performing for beer and cigarettes during the siege, when most artists and performers had fled the city, these days the Sarajevo War Theatre (SARTR) is a successful professional theatre company with an international reputation. During the war the company gave over 2000 performances, often in the most difficult of conditions, as part of the theatre against death motive that lay at the heart of its formation and existence. The National Theatre B-4, Obala Kulina Bana 9, tel. (+387) 33 22 16 82/(+387) 33 66 36 47, fax (+387) 33 44 51 38, npsa@bih.net.ba, www.nps.ba. The National Theatre of Sarajevo has been performing both in Bosnia and abroad since its founding in 1921. During the last 85 + years its performers, directors, choreographers and other staff have won great acclaim and numerous awards. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00 & 16:00 - 19:30. Tickets: 2.50-5.
Culture Centres
British Council Ljubljanska 9, tel. (+387) 33 250 220,
fax (+387) 33 250 240, British.Council@britishcouncil. ba, www.britishcouncil.ba. The British Council is the UKs leading international organisation for educational and cultural relations. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00, Fri 08:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Information Centre: Opening Times are from 12:00 - 17:00. Centre Andre Malraux Mula Mustafe Baeskije 8, tel. (+387) 33 206 889, fax (+387) 33 668 605, malraux@bih.net.ba, www.malraux.ba. A French cultural centre based in Sarajevo. Library and information available for French speaking expatriates. French lessons for locals. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. The Library has different opening times: Monday, Wednesday, Friday: 10:00-18:00h Tuesday and Thursday: 14:00-18:00h
Culture & events
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Autumn 2009
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Culture & events

INTERNATIONAL THEATER FESTIVAL
MESS - SARAJEVO
Sarajevo is a city of a long theatre tradition and culture, and MESS Festival (Small and Experimental Stages), was one of the best theatre events in the territory of the former Yugoslavia. The MESS Festival forty nine years of its existence undoubtedly promoted modern theatre expression. Since 1960, the year when the Festival was established, numerous ensembles from almost all the worlds major theatre centers (Warsaw, Paris, New York, Moscow, Zurich, Bologna, Bucharest, Budapest) have taken part in it. As it was impossible to organize an International Theatre Festival during the siege of the City, in 1993 the International Theatre and Film Festival started presentations and productions of artistic programs whose aim was, under the siege conditions, to contribute to the cultural life in Sarajevo, international reputation of the city, to the establishment and development of international cooperation. Culture as a fundamental human need was used as one of the ways to break up to the siege, to maintain life, to cherish quality Within its activities, the MESS organized the First International Film Festival in 1993, which was estimated to have been the most important event in 1993, then the Festival of the Sarajevo Alternative Scene. The theatre production was also continued so that from 1993 to the end of the siege ten performances were produced, among which there were Waiting for Godot directed by Susan Sontag, Alcestis , Silk Drums, In the Country of Last Things, Golden Eternal Braid directed by Haris Paovi, Circus directed by Peter Schumann. In 1994 the Sarajevo Festival Ensemble, as part of the MESS Festival, with two of its performances did its large tour of Europe, organized by Peter Brook Theatre, Bouffes du Nord (Paris), playing on the stages of Paris, Amsterdam, Geneva, Berlin The MESS also organized a multimedia festival Baby Universe (the summer of 94) and a large project Memory Module (96) under which published were the translations of Paul Austers books, Claude Lanzmanns Shoah, and presented was the series of Mahabharata, held were concerts and exhibitions In 1997, the Festival was resumed. Inter alia the following were presented: Volksbhne am Rosa Luxemburg Platz Theater, Stary Teatr, Picollo Theater, Theatre des Bouffes du Nord, Centre Choregraphique National DOrleans, Living Theatre, Divadlo Komedie, Theater Lliure, Rosas Company, Theater A.D. Ruhr, The Moving House Theater Company, Meno Fortas Theatre Company, Schaubuehne am Lehniner Platz, schauspielhannover, staatsoperhannover, Moskovskii Teatr Yunogo Zritelya, Katona Jozsef Sznhz, Le Volcan Scne Nationale du Havre, Pandur Theatres, State Academic Drama Theater named T. Shevchenko, Centre for Theatre Practices Gardzienice, Teatro delle Albe, Les Ballets C. de la B., Footsbarn Theatre, Oskaro Korunovo Teatras, National Theatre Ivan Vazov, Betty Nansen Teatret, Complicite, Kretakor Szinhaz And directors and actors such as Eugenio Baraba, Frank Castorf, Giorgio Strehler, Josef Nadj, Ariel Garcia Valdes, Phillipe Adrien, Rudi Husermann, Roberto Ciulli, Anne Teresa de Keersmaker, Paolo Magelli, Eimuntas Nekrosius, Thomas Ostermeier, Wlodzimierz Staniewski, Mark Tompkins, Pippo Delbono, Olivier Py, Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui, Mark Tompkins, Alexandar Morfov, Oskaras Korunovas, Luc Dunberry, Robert Wilson, Simon McBurney, Arpad Schilling, Nicolas Stemann, Marco Martinelli, Peter Brook, Kama Ginkas, Toma Pandur, Rodrigo Garcia, Andriy Zholdak Unrestrained theatre play and specific theatre expression established themselves as the Festival aesthetic and ethical postulates. This means that the Festival is open for contemporary trends in the world theatre (and exchange with it) without the narrowing of horizons of understanding the theatre language, respecting the freedom of authors concept and system, his attitude to old and new forms of expression and content. Therefore, the Festival aspires to be an annual review of the most interesting theatre achievements, professional theatres, theatre companies, ensembles projects conceived and carried out throughout the world the quality of which is professionally recognized. The Festival also has a production character... During the Festival, symposiums will be held and they will also have international character with the participation of critics, theatre analysts, drama artists and writers. During their stay, many outstanding guests will visit faculties, conduct workshops and creative activities. The realisation of the 49th International Theater Festival MESS Sarajevo has started already. As usual, the MESS Festival will be held from 16 - 26 October on the all theater stages of Sarajevo, Zenica, but Gorazde and Srebrenica, too.
sPorts & aCtivities

Swimming Pools
(+387) 33 771 000, fax (+387) 33 771 010, info@ terme-ilidza.ba, www.terme-ilidza.ba. Large water park in Ilida. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Pools: 9.00 a.m. - 9.00 p.mTropical garden: 8.00 a.m. - 10.00 p.m. Admission: KM 9-17. PTAFLGBKC
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Termalna Rivijera Butmirska cesta 18, Ilida, tel.
Tennis
Tennis Centre Stup Nikole opa 217 (Bojnika bb),
tel. (+387) 33 468 231/(+387) 33 457 286, contact@ tcs.ba, www.tcs.ba. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.
Tennis Head Akademija Donji Hotonj II/B, tel. (+387)
33 482 416/(+387) 61 172 894, fax (+387) 33 482 415, info@headakademija.ba, www.headakademija. ba.
Hiking
Paragliding on Jahorina ce bb, Jahorina, tel. (+387) 57 27 04 22, w w w.termaghotel. com. The hills around Sarajevo are alive with the sounds of a range of ou tdoor activities throughout most of the year. Well-known for winter sports, the region also offers plenty to do in th e warmer months, including hiking and biking through the beautiful Bosnian mountains. The Hotel Termag, the big place situated on the slopes of Jahorina, offers a range of activities for guests or day visitors. In summer, mountain and quad bikes can be hired or you can give paragliding a go to get a birds eye view of a bit of Bosnia. During the winter there are ski and snowboarding classes and the hotel also boasts its own ice rink. And, if that all sounds way too active, the coffee shop and bar is a great place from which to watch others exercising.
Hotel Termag Polji-
Extreme Sports
Scorpio Extreme Sports Club Tel. (+387) 61 60
81 30/+387 61 78 81 05, info@scorpio.ba, www. scorpio.ba.
Fitness Centres
Club Fighter Branilaca Dobrinje 4a, tel. (+387) 61 23
11 29, fighter@bih.net.ba, clubfighter.net. Dino company B-3, Mis Irbina 10, tel. (+387) 61 55 07 80/(+387) 61 55 07 81, dino.company@gmail.com. Fitness Centre Body Art B-2; B-3; C-2; D-2, Alipaina bb, Zetra, tel. (+387) 33 276 123. Hotel Green Ustanicka bb, Ilida, tel. (+387) 33 63 97 01, greenp@bih.net.ba, www.green.co.ba. L.A. Lifetime Fitness Dzemala BIjedica 166a, tel. (+387) 61 10 94 32, info@lafitness.ba, www. lafitness.ba. Triumph Sports for Kids Semira Fraste 13, tel. (+387) 61 01 84 82. Youth House Demala Bijedia bb, tel. +387 33 660 519, centar@youthhousesarajevo.ba, www. youthhousesarajevo.ba.
Skakavac If you fancy wandering to a waterfall make
Paintball
Patinball CKP B-2; B-3; C-2; D-2, Alipaina bb, Zetra,
tel. (+387) 62 12 22 26, fax ((+387) 33 55 49 06, int@ ckp.ba, ckp.ba.
Stadiums & Arenas

CSC Ilida Mala Aleja 67, Ilida, tel. +387 33 63
65 14.
CSC Skenderija A-2, Terezije bb, tel. (+387) 33 20 11

93, sport@skenderija.ba, http://www.skenderija.ba. Grbavica Stadium Zvornika 27, tel. (+387) 33 71 52 01. Koevo Stadium D-2, Patriotske lige 35, tel. (+387) 33 26 87 61. Ramiz Salin Hall Semira Frate bb, tel. (+387) 33 77 75 90.
the hike up to Skakavac, just north of the city. The falls themselves are a pretty sight and the wander through the woods has a forest fairytale feel to it. You can drive much of the way, or walk the five or so kilometres up from the last bus stop in Nahoreva village, or go as far as the taxi driver will take you once the road turns to dirt and tramp the rest of the way. The turn-off to the falls is clearly marked and the path well-trodden. If you want refreshment its recommended you drop into Dragans. This rustic restaurant is located on the right hand side of the road just before the timber archway. Its very much a whats going is what you get place and since whats going is basic but delicious local food and a terrific atmosphere a brief stop can easily turn into an overnight stay (simple accommodation - as in Dragan will throw you a blanket and pillow and direct you towards the loft - is available), or mark the first of many return visits.
Autumn 2009
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Where to stay
Accommodation in Sarajevo is readily available for the traveling weary businessman or backpacker. You will have no problem finding a luxurious room in a hotel or a cheap hostel or B&B with the following selection.
Hecco De Luxe B-4, Ferhadija 2, tel. (+387) 33
Symbol key
P Air conditioning O Casino T Child friendly F Fitness centre R Internet K Restaurant D Sauna 6 Animal friendly A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms J Old town location C Swimming pool W Wi-Fi
55 99 95, fax (+387) 33 55 89 95, heccodeluxe@ gmail.com, www.heccodeluxe.com. This restaurant and series of small hotel apartments has just been built on the very top of the JAT tower: a rickety, old apartment block sitting at the junction of Ferhadija and Marshal Tito streets, overlooking the Eternal Flame memorial to the dead partisans of World War Two. Q (singles 100, doubles 130). PTYJHAULGBKXW 33 28 80 00, fax (+387) 33 66 38 62, reservation@ holiday- inn.ba, w w w.holiday- inn.com/sarajevo. Oh dear. The iconic wartime days of Sarajevos famous Holiday Inn, bullet-riddled and holding out to the last, filled with war-correspondents and gritty hotel staff existing on the edge, are sadly long gone. Apart from nice mushrooms at breakfast, some charming staff and faded memories, this overpriced, uncomfortable and architecturally hideous hotel has few redeeming features anymore. Q 220 rooms (singles 100, doubles 150). PTYJHA6UIFLGBKXW
Holiday Inn B-1, B-2, Zmaja od Bosne 4, tel. (+387)
Upmarket
Central B-4, umurija 8, tel. (+387) 33 56 18 00,
info@hotelcentral.ba, westwood.ba. More of a luxury fitness centre and spa than a hotel - a member of staff once quantified it for us as an 85/15 split in favour of the former - this West Wood-managed venture occupies a beautifullyrestored old building in the city centre. The gym is packed with state-of-the-art equipment, while the colonnaded pool is reminiscent of Justinians Cistern. The 15 rooms upstairs are expectedly lavish, although strangely enough for such an upmarket location some only have small skylights rather than actual windows. Q 15 rooms (single KM200, doubles KM240, suite KM300). PJAFKDCW
City Boutique B - 4, Mula Mustafe Baeskije 2,
29 00/(+387) 33 75 29 06, fax (+387) 33 75 29 01, booking@radonplazahotel.ba, www.radonplazahotel. ba. This glistening five-star tower owned by the Avaz business group is Sarajevos first full-functional five-star hotel. Its set way out of the centre of town, but if you are there for business its perfect. There are 112 rooms, conference centres, a spa, a swimming-pool, internet connection everywhere, a revolving restaurant, supremely comfortable rooms and 24-hour room-service - in short, everything one would expect. And its not that much more expensive than more prosaic city-centre joints. Q 122 rooms (singles 105, doubles 170, 3 suites 245). PTHAUFLEGBKDXCW
Radon Plaza Demala Bijedica 185, tel. (+387) 33 75
tel. (+387) 33 566 850, info@cityhotel.ba, www. cityhotel.ba. Only opened in August, this is the newest addition to Sarajevos upmarket accommodation field. Situated halfway between Baarija and the BBI shopping complex, virtuallyevery place of interest in the city centre is only a few minutes walk away. The modern faade stands in stark contrast to neighbouring buildings, and while the interior design is not quite modern minimalist you do get the impression that youve jumped at least a few years into the future. If youre staying for any length of time definitely consider upgrading to the deluxe rooms or smaller apartments - they offer significantly more space and the price difference is negligible. Q 19 rooms (singles 90-100, doubles 100-110, apartments 130-150). PJARLW
Europe B-4, Vladislava Skaria 5, tel. (+387) 33
580 400/(+387) 33 580 500, fax (+387) 33 580 580, reception@hoteleurope.ba, www.hoteleurope. ba. Located in the heart of Old Sarajevo, the hotel was first established back in 1882 and reopened earlier this year after an extensive make-over. A modern wing has been cleaved onto the eastern side of the original AustroHungarian structure giving the faade a somewhat bipolar appearance, but the interior is about as luxurious as youre likely to find anywhere in the city. The spacious rooms are exceedingly comfortable and many offer spectacular views of the surrounding Baarija area. Add to all this the 30% discount theyre offering until the end of the year and the place is downright cheap. Q 160 rooms (singles 92-143, doubles 123-179, apartments 230) All rooms 30% off until the end of 2009.. PJHARFLBKCW
Ornate Bosnian woodwork
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Where to stay
Sarajevo Demala Bijedica 169 A, tel. (+387) 33 777
900, fax (+387) 33 473 043, info@sarajevohotel.ba, sarajevohotel.ba. Aside from an almost surreal petrol station marring the otherwise gorgeous exterior, this place is one of the most aesthetically perfect hotels weve ever seen unfortunately it has prices to match. Situated in new Sarajevo near the national television station and countless shiny new office buildings, it unabashedly caters to an upmarket business clientele. The rooms are absolutely stunning as are the views from the enormous rooftop terrace and restaurant. Curiously, non-guests can use the small fitness centre and massage services for fairly reasonable fees. Q 66 rooms (singles 81-131, doubles 91-151, apartments 253). PHARUIFLBKDCW beds swirled with silk drapes, luxurious fitted bathrooms and cable television. Downstairs in the breakfast room theres a filling selection of pastries first thing in the morning. This hotel is a stones throw from the Gavrilo Princip Bridge, where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated in 1914. Q 17 rooms (singles 80, doubles 100, apartment 120). PTYJA6UGKX
Bosnia B-3, Kulovia 9, tel. (+387) 33 47 12 51,
fax (+387) 33 44 45 72, bosniahotel@bih.net.ba, www.bosniahotels.com. A relic of the old Yugoslav days, particularly in terms of the dcor, but the staff are friendly and attentive, and it is handy for getting almost anywhere in Sarajevo on foot. Q 60 rooms (singles 85, doubles 100). PTYJHAUILGBKXW
Mid-range
Astra Garni B-4, Kunduriluk 2, tel. (+387) 33 47
51 00/(+387) 33 47 52 00, fax (+387) 33 47 63 00, h.astra.garni@bih.net.ba, www.astra-garni.com. ba. This comfortable, modern hotel is set bang in the heart of Bascarsija, boasting a gym, sauna, conference facilities and nicely-designed rooms, some set on two levels. Probably the most conveniently-set hotel in town, the downside is that Sarajevos heaving street culture on the pedestrian lanes of Baarija can make it noisy during summer months. But in winter it is both romantic and efficient for business or pleasure. Q 53 rooms and 14 suites (singles 90, doubles 120, suites 130). PTYJHA6UFLGKDXW
Dardanija B-3, Radieva 15, tel. (+387) 33 213 613,
fax (+387) 33 213 616, dardanija@dardanija.co.ba, www.dardanija.co.ba. May very well have been one of the top hotels in town during its day, but those days have long since passed - picture shiny bedspreads, green floors and lots of gold-trimmed furniture. Your choice of rooms is also between front-facing ones with street noise or back ones with depressing views of an alley. If that description is not completely off-putting then the place might not be that bad of an option, as the rooms are comfortable enough and most are fairly large. Q (singles 62, doubles 104). PJAW
Europa Garni B-4, Vladislava Skarica 3, tel. (+387) 33
Astra Hotel B-4, Zelenih Beretki 9, tel. (+387) 33
25 21 00/(+387) 33 25 20 00, fax (+387) 33 20 99 39, h.astra@bih.net.ba, www.hotel-astra.com.ba. Comfortable, affordable, central, with friendly staff and great breakfasts. Rooms on the second floor are best: king-sized
23 28 55, europa-garni@smartnet.ba. Sitting a hundred metres away from the Astra Garni is the Europa Garni: rooms, level of service, prices and comfort are all much the same, with the added benefit that the Garni offers Sarajevos only Moroccan restaurant set across three different floors. Intriguing. Q 28 rooms (singles 90, doubles 125). PTJHAILGKXW
Out for a stroll in Baarija
Where to stay
Gaj B-3, Skenderija 14, tel. (+387) 33 55 48 05/(+387)
33 55 48 06, fax (+387) 33 44 52 00, info@hotel-gaj. co.ba, www.hotel-gaj.com.ba. Small, modest 12-room hotel with a nice garden set ten minutes walk from the centre. Basic but comfortable. Q 12 rooms (singles 60, doubles 90). PTYJA6UILEGBKXW
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Grand D-1, Muhameda ef. Pande 7, tel. (+387)
33 56 31 00, fax (+387) 33 56 32 00, hotelgrand@ hotelgrand.com, www.hotelgrand.com. A less than inspirational-looking place on the hill behind the train station, at first glance it appears a bit behind the times - much like the photo of a Concorde hanging in the lobby. But we give it credit: the service and accommodation are first rate, and they somehow managed to secure the domain name hotelgrand.com, which has to count for something. Also, if youre staying over the weekend theres a 99% chance of seeing a wedding party downstairs - crashing it is entirely up to you and we take no responsibility for the consequences. Q 132 rooms (singles 61-76, doubles 95-116, suites 125). PJHAULKW
Safir Jagodia 3, tel. (+387) 33 47 50 40, info@
hotelsafir.ba, www.hotelsafir.ba. Down a quiet alley only a few minutes walk from Baarija, Safir is great option for budget-conscious business travellers in town for longer stays. In a modern building with touches of traditional Bosnian architecture, each their eight rooms is apartment type, which essentially means a standard double with the addition of a good-sized kitchenette. Although the brochure and website mention conference facilities, the room in question is quite small and would perhaps be suitable for meetings at best. Q 8 rooms (singles 50, doubles 72).
Unica B-3, Hamdije Kresevljakovica 42, tel. (+387)
33 55 52 25/(+387) 33 55 53 35, fax (+387) 33 55 52 26, hotelunica@hotmail.com, www.hotelunica.ba. At last. Just what Sarajevo needed. Eight double rooms and eight single rooms in a well-designed, tasteful hotel bang in the middle of Sarajevo, with multilingual staff and a nice cocktail bar thrown in. The rooms are comfortable with wi-fi connections, flat-screen TVs and great beds. Its about to become the most popular hotel in town. Q 16 rooms (singles 75, doubles 100). PTJHALGKXW
Vila Wien B-4, Vladislava Skarica 3, tel. (+387) 33
23 28 55, fax (+387) 33 23 28 60, europa-garni@ smartnet.ba, www.europa-garni.ba. This is a small and cosy separate wing of the Europa Garni, with six nice but small and newly-renovated rooms in the heart of the old Town. Q 6 rooms (singles 70, doubles 80). PTJALXW
Villa Orient B-4, Oprkanj 6, tel. (+387) 33 23 27 02,

fax (+387) 33 44 10 44, orient@bih.net.ba, www. hotel-villa-orient.com. The downside is that for what it costs - about 100 per night - the Vila Orient offers rather small rooms which are slightly featureless. The upside is that it is entirely central, right in the middle of Baarija, without being too noisy. Q 19 rooms (singles 75, doubles 100). PJHAFLBKXW
sarajevo.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009
20
Where to stay
Budget
Halvat C-4, Kasima Efendije Dobrae 5, tel. (+387) 33
237 714/(+387) 61 130 093, fax (+387) 33 237 715, halvat@bih.net.ba, halvat.com.ba. We cant say enough good things about this small family-run B&B just around the corner from Baarija. Mumo and Valida, the husband and wife team that runs the place, have been in the business for some 15 years and clearly pride themselves on paying attention to the smallest of details: we dont want to ruin any future surprises but lets just say that guests birthdays dont go unnoticed. The house itself is incredibly cosy, with seven rooms and a large lounge in the basement where breakfast is served. Reservations are a must as their reputation keeps the place busy year round. Q 6 rooms (singles 46, doubles 68, triple 86). Prices are significantly lower from December to March. PJARB
Konak B-4, Mula Mustafe Baeskije 48, tel. (+387)

33 47 69 00/(+387) 61 53 14 94, info@hotel-konak. com, www.hotel-konak.com. This charming little hotel was re-opened earlier this year by the newest generation of the Resi family to get into the hotel business. While the street outside might be a little on the scruffy side, the hotel itself has been beautifully furnished in a traditional style with solid wood everything, modern amenities and a bright airy breakfast room downstairs. The service is excellent and the rates have been significantly reduced due to the current economic climate, making it a great value for the foreseeable future. Definitely recommended. Q 9 rooms (singles 50, doubles 70, apartment 150). PJALBW
Kovai B-4, C-4, Kovai 12, tel. (+387) 33 57 37 00,
Hecco C-4, Medrese 1, tel. (+387) 33 27 37 30/(+387)
33 27 37 31, fax (+387) 33 27 37 31, hotel.hecco@ gmail.com, www.hotel-hecco.net. Set 500 metres above the heart of Baarija, Sarajevos old Ottoman quarter, the Hecco is neither as well-located nor opulent as its city-centre cousins, but for fifty euros per night for a double, with a bright, spacious and comfortable room with cable TV, wireless internet, satisfactory breakfast and a lovely espresso first thing, whos complaining. Its a bit of a hike back after a night out, but the view compensates. Q 27 rooms (singles 40, doubles 57, triples 67). PTYJHARLGKXW
fax (+387) 33 57 37 01, info@hotelkovaci.com, www. hotelkovaci.com. Yet another budget/mid-range option in the area immediately north of Baarija, Kovai looks quite stylish from the outside but the interior is a little too Spartan for our tastes. If youre looking to splash out a bit in this part of town, they do offer a large top floor apartment with a jacuzzi bath. Q 8 rooms (singles 50, doubles 70, triple 80, suite 100). JALBW
Palas Krivajska 1, tel. (+387) 33 72 54 00, fax (+387)
Hollywood Dr Pintola 23, Ilida, tel. (+387) 33 77 31
33 72 54 08, info@palas.com.ba, www.palas.com.ba. Bang next-door to the railway and bus station. Simple, but cheap and convenient for getting in to town on the tram or on foot. Q 53 rooms (singles 40, doubles 60). Breakfast included. TALX
00, fax (+387) 33 77 31 45, info@hotel-hollywood. ba, www.hotel-hollywood.ba. A massive hotel and conference centre located in the near the airport in Ilida, Hollywood is extremely popular with budget-minded business travellers, NGO workers, sports teams and the like - and for good reason. Aside from ample conference facilities, multiple restaurants and comfortable modern rooms, the complex boasts a nearly Olympic-size swimming pool, full sports hall, 4-lane bowling alley, wellness centre and is right next door to the one of the best water parks in the country. A great choice for those who have their own transport or dont mind taking a taxi to the centre and back. Q 200 rooms (singles KM 75-95, doubles KM 120-140, triples KM 160-180, apartments KM 190). PTHARFLEBKDCW
Pansion Stari Grad Bjelina ikma 4, tel. (+387) 33 23
98 98, pansion_starigrad@hotmail.com. Located some 50m from the Sebilj in Baarija, this place is comfortable if not overwhelming. Some of the single rooms are only slightly larger than the beds and/or have bathrooms guaranteed to give you bruised elbows, in other words, you may want to negotiate for a double if youre the least bit claustrophobic. The aquarium and breakfast terrace are nice additions, but the real selling point is use of the adjacent guarded car park - a rarity in the city centre - for a small additional fee. Q 10 rooms (singles 35, doubles 50, triples 65). JALBW
Yldz C- 4, Tahia Sokak 4, tel. (+387) 33 00
Hotel Boutique 36 C - 4, Safet bega Basagica
36, tel. (+387) 33 239 490, fax (+387) 33 233 309, boutique36@gmail.com, http://www.hb36. ba/. Bou ti qu e 36 on e minu te from Baarija. I n th e most famous and th e most at tracti ve par t o f Sarajevo Old Town, this is a newly open hotel, offering high quality service, accommodation and relaxation. Q (52 per person).
Identiko Guest House Halaci 3, tel./fax (+387) 33
00 00/(+387) 61 13 97 36, info@hotelyildiz.ba, hotelyildiz.ba. Named after a neighbourhood in Istanbul, which is appropriate as it occupies a renovated Ottomanstyle house just north of Baarija, Yldz has a bit more character than most of the nearby competition. Wed like it more if the rates were slightly less expensive (perhaps acquiring the best phone number in Sarajevo wasnt cheap). Nevertheless its a good option for those who fancy the idea of staying in an old wooden house but still want WiFi and satellite television. Q 7 rooms (singles 40, doubles 50, triples 70). JAW
23 33 10, identiko@bih.net.ba. Small simple rooms, super-cheap, this makes a handy base from which to explore the centre of Sarajevo. Breakfast not included. Q 8 rooms (singles 24, doubles 75).
Hostels
the edge of Baarija. Some rooms dont have windows and most are strangely decorated as though it were a dolls house. No breakfast available. Q (singles 25, doubles 50). JAXW
Lion B-4, Bravadzluk 30, tel. (+387) 33 23 61 37. On
Italija Pofalicka 7, tel. (+387) 33 65 04 50/(+387) 55
65 04 85, fax (+387) 33 66 19 38, www.hotelitalia. ba. A straightforward hotel which has an extensive range of sporting extras, including an indoor swimming-pool and a small gym, which partly make up for the distance from the city-centre. Q 36 rooms (singles 45, doubles 75). TAIFLKXC
clickandbuy.inyourpocket.com
restaurants
Bosnia, with its beautiful, favourable climate, has a fantastic selection of natural produce, in particular fruit and vegetables. The citys three main markets in Ciglane, the city centre and Grbavica are well worth a visit, if for no other reason than to see the massive seasonal displays of cherries, apricots, nectarines, artichokes, avocados, raspberries, walnuts, celeriac, new potatoes and almost anything else you can think of. Many are just grown in kitchen gardens, all are non-GM, and a lot have never seen pesticides. The meat is excellent. However, this wide variety of raw ingredients does not always translate into good food being served in restaurants. Much of Bosnian cuisine is traditional, salty, meaty and fatty food. Tradition and societal expectation often stand in the way of culinary innovation, and too often the best one can say about Bosnian food is that it is OK. Most people eat at home, and restaurants are reserved for very special occasions: below is a selection of those places that do better than most.
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Symbol key
P Air conditioning E Live music T Child friendly R Internet O Casino 6 Animal friendly B Outside seating A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking J Old Town location W Wi-Fi V Home delivery The wine collection at charming Noovi
Avlija C-3, Sumbula Avde 2, tel. (+387) 33 44 44 83,
Asian
Hot Wok B-2; B-3, Titova 12, tel. (+387) 33 20 33
22/(+387) 61 17 17 60, info@hotwokcaffe.com. Eat mango chicken with fried noodles and sip a large freshly squeezed orange juice as you watch the cooks wok up sizzling, only mildly-improvised Thai food with inventive names like Hollywood Chicks. Youll sit at high stools and be surrounded by a cluster of Bosnian businessmen, international diplomats and bureaucrats, or a foursome of Bosnian women on a night out. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (KM 8-22). JAXS
fax (+387) 33 44 42 60, fkarkin@bih.net.ba, www. avlija.ba. Meaning courtyard in Bosnian, the inside of this eclectic, noisy Bosnian restaurant is like a walled garden. To start choose fried mushrooms in breadcrumbs or ustipce, small deep-fried doughballs served with kajmak, soft white cream cheese. Then follow on with fantastic pepper steaks with perfect roast potatoes, or muckalicka, spiced beef stew with peppers served in a clay pot. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (KM 4-22). TAX
Buregdinica Bosna B-4, Bravadiluk 9. Weve heard

this no-nonsense Burek place recommended as far away as Slovenia, and based solely on the constant queue waiting to get a plate of the piping-hot savoury pastry its not without good reason. Vegetarians have the option of sirnica (cheese), zeljanica (spinach and cheese) or krompirua (potato), and theres even an air-conditioned dining room up the dangerously steep stairs in back. When coming from the direction of the Sebilj look for the red basketball logo on your left. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. (8-12 KM per kilo). PJNBS
Kineski Restoran B-3, Ismeta Mujezinovia 14, tel.
(+387) 33 66 41 17, kineski.restoran.sarajevo@gmail. com. Opened this past summer to fill the MSG-flavoured void left by the closing of the citys only other Chinese restaurant, this imaginatively named place (Chinese Restaurant in English) was still sorting out some of the subtle differences between Chinese and Bosnian cuisine when we visited during its first week. Aside from that small wrinkle the service is impeccable - it always helps to poach experienced professional staff from other establishments - and the selection of dishes quite varied: Coca Cola chicken anyone? The selection of wine is also impressive. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (KM10-60). ALXS
Dveri B-4, Prote Bacovica 12, tel. (+387) 33 53 70 20,
info@dveri.co.ba, www.dveri.co.ba. Beef goulash with plums, fabulous home-made bread, vegetable soup served with a poached egg, a garden to sit in summer, a toasty interior in which to sip rakiya in winter and hospitable Bosnian staff speaking perfect English make this small restaurant set in a pretty, flower-filled courtyard in Sarajevos Old Town one of the best choices to eat at for any occasion. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (KM6-18). AX
Inat Kua B-5, Veliki Alifakovac 1, tel. (+387) 33 447
Bosnian
ASD B-4, Mali uriluk 3, tel. (+387) 33 238 500. This
modern canteen-style place in Baarija is great if you want to sample a variety of Bosnian dishes without the hassle of sitting down for a proper meal in a restaurant. Just point to what looks good and specify if you want a small or large portion of it - no need to master the menu beforehand or worry about pronunciation. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. (KM 1.50-10). PJBS
867/(+387) 61 338 177, fax (+387) 33 560 319. Dishes are limited but the location is good and the tale of how this restaurant came to be where it is, is pure Sarajevo - prevent the waiter whisking your menu away and read how the House of Spite got its name and position. Specializing in local soups and mains, the House rambles upwards with three floors of group settings, or tables for two for more intimate dining. Factor in the outdoor riverside tables and you have a pleasant setting for a traditional Bosnian experience, both culinary and cultural. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (KM 10-20). AU
Autumn 2009
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restaurants
Kibe C-4, Vrbanjua 164, tel. (+387) 33 441 936, www.
restorankibe.ba. Clinging to the side of the hill a few kilometres above Baarija, this family-run restaurant has been a Sarajevo institution since it opened in 1988. In a beautifully converted house with multiple dining areas, the menu contains all the Bosnian standards at prices similar to what youll find in less-inspired settings below, and the food is unanimously considered some of the best in the city. Definitely a must visit on any trip, just make sure to call ahead for reservations as window seats are scarce and demand understandably high. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (KM 5-17). Its popular among expats and one of our personal favourites - we seem to find ourselves here at least a couple times a month. They specialise in Tandoori, but pretty much have all the standards covered as well as a large selection of Nepalese dishes. The location is a bit out of the way if youre not familiar with the city so a taxi is probably a good idea, or you can always take advantage of their delivery service. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (KM 9-17). PALS
International
62 62 28 22, info@placetobe.ba, www.placetobe. ba. Four Rooms of Mrs.Safije is the latest venture of the owners of Hacienda cocktail bar and Baghdad Caf, and their interior design flair has struck again. Glamorous, dressed-up Sarajevans and foreigners flock to drink Bosnian and Croatian wines and eat fusion food on three floors of this original Austro-Hungarian house set just outside the centre. Themed on the early 1900s love-story between the Bosnian Safija and her Austrian lover, dishes that triumph on the menu include salmon fillet with hollandaise, risotto with prawns and parmesan and chicken marinaded with honey and chilli sauce QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (2.50-12). PTILX
Lovac B-3; B-4, Petrekijina 24, tel. (+387) 33 66 41
4 Sobe Gospode Safije C-3, Cekalusa 61, tel. (+387)
76/(+387) 61 10 23 31, info@lovac-sarajevo.com, www. lovac-sarajevo.com. Occupying a hundred year-old villa on the hill above the Cathedral, Lova (or the Hunter) lives up to its name with a menu full of venison, wild boar and other game meat dishes, as well as pretty much every Bosnian specialty weve ever heard of. Appropriately enough the large outdoor seating area has a distinct hunting lodge feel to it, while inside things are a bit statelier - though a fair amount of mounted antlers, horns and heads still adorn the walls. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (KM 8 - 36). PJALB
Park Prineva B-5, Iza Hrida 7, tel. (+387) 33 22 27 08,
fax (+387) 33 53 24 03, www.parkprinceva.ba. You go to sit and have a drink on the terrace at Park Prineva, set on the side of a mountain overlooking Sarajevo, for one reason and one reason alone: the view. Especially in summer, it offers the most amazing view all the way up the valley, and allows you to see the whole city stretched underneath you. The staff are courteous, friendly and efficient. The traditional Bosnian food is beyond bland. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (KM 8-22). TALEBX
Dr Food B-4, Obala Kulina Bana 10, tel. (+387) 33
Pod Lipom B-4, Prote Bakovica 6, tel. (+387) 33 44
07 00. On a quiet alley just around the corner from the Sebilj but away from most of the tourist traffic, Pod Lipom is a quaint traditional Bosnian restaurant with a lengthy menu and reasonable prices. There are a lot of hot and cold starters and soups to choose from so its great for groups who want to sample a bit of everything. If you want to get on your waiters good side ask him about the time Bill Clinton stopped by for some Sarajevski sahan. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (6 - 15 KM). JAB
20 55 51. Some of the best food in town. Prawn salad with rocket, grilled tuna steaks, fantastic beef, great chips, grilled St.Pierre fish and inventive puddings are just some of the reasons why this small, cosy restaurant overlooking the River Miljacka works so well. Attentive staff, a really good wine list and affordable prices are the others. Everything, from the stylish cutlery to the loos seems to be just right. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (KM 10-28). PTJABXSW
Noovi Tina Ujevia bb, tel. (+387) 33 22 22 42. A newish wine-bar and restaurant, Noovi is situated just opposite the British Embassy on a small hill overlooking the centre of town. Run as a joint-venture between the staff of I Tri Bicchiere wineshop and Dr Food, it is a great place to amble along to on a sunny evening, have a bottle of Rioja and enjoy a platter of ham and cheese. If you feel like it there is seating indoors or out, their pasta and pizzas are well worth a try, and the wine-list is beyond extensive. Some of the best staff in town. QOpen 15:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (5-10). PJAB
Urban Grill B-3, Pruakova 8, tel. (+387) 33 44 44 48,

ugb@bih.net.ba, www.urbangrill.ba. The Brajlovi family had been providing high quality meat to other restaurants for some 60 years before they finally decided to cut out the middle-men and open their own chain of slightly upmarket grills. So far they have two locations in Sarajevo, both of which are a cut above most of the competition in terms of quality and ambience while offering pretty much the same prices. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. (KM 5 - 15). PJBS
Peppers A-2, Zagrebaka 4a, tel. (+387) 33 20 15
eljo 1 and 2 B-4, Kundurdiluk 12, tel. (+387) 33
44 70 00. Sarajevo evapii are small, immensely tasty grilled spicy sausages, served with spiced flat bread called somun. Traditionally accompanied by a glass of yoghourt, they are great at any time of day. Particularly good hangover food. Named after one of the citys two main football clubs, eljo does some of the best evaii in Bosnia. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (KM 4-7). JBX
50, restoranbarpeppers@yahoo.com. Set snugly close to the Grbavica headquarters of the Office of the High Representative, or OHR, Bosnias foreign overseer, means that this charming, well-run restaurant has an international feel and many international clients. The service is slick and fast, and dishes such as prawn cocktail, broccoli soup and excellent pastas come served up to a background of jazz funk. Good beers too. QOpen 09:30 - 24:00. (6-17). PJAS 00, www.sarajevska-pivara.ba. A favourite among tourists and well-heeled locals alike, this restaurant attached to the Sarajevska Brewery consists of one enormous hall with seating on two levels. The menu has just about anything you can think of, although house specialties seem to include many sausage and veal dishes. Aside from being on the expensive side - most mains with a side are around 20 KM - its also a little too nice for its own good, as the flawless dcor somewhat compromises the traditional beer hall feel. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. (7-40 KM). TJAL
Pivnica HS B-4, Franjevaka 15, tel. (+387) 33 49 11
Indian
Taj Mahal Paromlinska 48a, tel. (+387) 61 27 73
84, www.tajmahal-sarajevo.com. If youve had your fill of traditional Bosnian fare or are just looking for something different, Sarajevos only Indian restaurant is a great option.
restaurants
23
Pravda B-3, Radieva 4c, tel. (+387) 33 55 82 15,
pravdasarajevo@gmail.com, www.pravda.ba. Sarajevos beautifully designed bar of the moment boasts comfortable sofas and high stools on which to perch and lounge, and good Croatian and Argentinian wines and snacks. Chicken Satay or tasty Dalmatian prawns with rocket are 7. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (KM 6-24). TJA6EBX
To Be or Not to Be Cizmedluk 5, tel. (+387) 33 23
32 65. Theres not much space in this friendly den of home cooking in Baarija, with its two tables on the pavement, two downstairs and three upstairs. Which seems to make it all the nicer to enjoy steaks with grilled vegetables, sea-bass and good pasta as the sound of a Bosnian tin-smith tapping away down the street fills the Sarajevo night. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (KM 6-18). JABX
serves up large portions of fairly decent Tex-Mex standards like tostadas, burritos and enchiladas, as well as many vegetarian options and some vaguely Mexican-sounding meat dishes that all come with a slight Bosnian twist. The large covered terrace built to resemble some kind of rustic Latin American beach bar is an atmospheric place to enjoy an evening Corona or tequila cocktail along with a starter or two. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (KM 7-20). TJALEBS
Vegetarian
Karuzo B-3; B-4, Denetia ikma bb, tel. (+387) 33
44 46 47/(+387) 63 89 37 93, www.karuzorestaurant. com. Quirky doesnt even begin to describe this place. The tiny restaurant behind Markale is the creation of Saa Obuina: owner, host, chef, waiter and DJ. Outfitted to resemble a boat and named after an Italian opera singer, Karuzo was the first vegetarian restaurant in Sarajevo, and the menu is a somewhat schizophrenic medley combining vegetarian, macrobiotic and Mediterranean dishes, along with sushi. The overall experience of eating here has always reminded us of going to your uncles house for dinner - only if your uncle was a great cook and vaguely resembled Steven Segal. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00-23:00, Sat 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (KM 6 - 35). JABS
Vinoteka B-3, Skenderija 12, tel. (+387) 33 21 49 96,
www.vinoteka.ba. If youre a visiting celebrity, Bosnian politician, foreign diplomat, member of the Sarajevo glitterati or just somebody who wants to have a fantastic meal with good wine in a beautifully-designed restaurant, you go to Vinoteka. Since opening in 2003 its been a prime contender for best restaurant in town. Set on the south side of the river on three floors, downstairs is a cosy wine-bar, while upstairs on two floors is the full restaurant experience. Choose from an extensive and varied menu: favourites such as carrot cream soup with shrimps, turkey breast with lime and honey, and Caf de Paris Steak followed by tiramisu are all excellent. Over 100 wines from Bosnia and abroad make the meal sing. Unmissable. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (10-40 KM). PTJALGX
Vegehana B-2; B-3, Kemal-begova 4, tel. (+387) 61 59 21
Mexican
Caballero B-3; C-3, Didikova 3, tel. (+387) 33 21
02 66. This popular Mexican restaurant, situated up the hill from BBI near the French and Austrian embassies,
23, catering@vegehana.com, vegehana.com. Located on a quiet residential side-street off of Alipaina, this borderline sacreligious vegetarian oasis in the middle of the carnivores paradise that is Sarajevo (along with the rest of Bosnia) caters to a mixed crowd of trendy students and health conscious professionals. The daily special is a great value offering six different dishes (soup, main, two sides, salad and a pastry) for KM10 - you can see the current weeks selection by clicking Jelovnik on their website. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. (3-10 KM). JAS
Autumn 2009
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Cafs
Reconstructed music pavillion in Atmejdan Park
Symbol key
P Air conditioning E Live music T Child friendly R Internet O Casino 6 Animal friendly B Outside seating A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking J Old Town location W Wi-Fi V Home delivery
Music Pavillion Caf B-4, Atmejdan Park. By far
the best of the lot of cafs in At Mejdan Park along the southern bank of the river, its also one of our favourites in the entire city. Housed in and around a beautiful wooden bandstand that was originally built in 1913 by the AustroHungarians and destroyed during WWII, it was completely restored in 2004 (ironically with funding from the Austrian government) and is one of the more unique caf experiences in Sarajevo. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. J6NB
Torte i to Caf A-1, Grbavika 6, tel. (+387) 61 13

49 88, www.torte-i-to.ba. One of this cafes many selling points is that its the only non-smoking caf we know of in Sarajevo. Aside from its fresh air, its also known for bringing some excellent cheesecake to town. Among their various other cakes, pastries and sweets the carrot cake is our personal favourite, and the selection of coffee is as good as anywhere else in town. The new branch on the top of the BBI shopping centre has a smoking terrace, and a great view of central Sarajevo. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PJABS
Caffe del Omar B-3, Trg Sarajeva (BBI Centar), tel.
(+387) 33 56 99 99. A sprawling caf that occupies a good chunk of the ground floor at the recently opened BBI shopping centre, it entices shoppers to take a load off with views of the centres six-floor atrium. Theres also additional seating out on the main square if you prefer some fresh air or the kids would just like to splash around in the nearby fountain. They do a variety of sandwiches and cakes, and also have some of the best shakes in town. The coffees not bad either. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. PTJAUB
Vatra B-4, Ferhadija 4, tel. (+387) 33 222 244, info@
Gradska Kafana Stari Grad B-4, Obala Kulina Bana
bb. This old school no-frills caf is sandwiched between Baarija and the Obala along the river. Its large sprawling terrace is shaded courtesy of several ancient trees and theres usually a mild breeze blowing up off the river, making it an ideal place for a coffee on sweltering summer days. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. J6NB
vatra.ba, http://www.vatra.ba. This trendy caf takes its name from Sarajevos Eternal Flame (Vjena Vatra), which burns only a few metres away in memory of the partisans who died during World War II. The caf itself is a much less sombre affair, and we cant remember ever seeing it not packed with a lively mix of people. The menu has just about enough cakes, ice creams and snacks to try something different each day of the year - we cant get enough of the bite sized sandwiches - and fire-related quotes to keep you busy while youre waiting. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.
nightlife
A night out in Sarajevo comes no better than an elongated wander through the citys bar scene, where you will find people drinking coffee, beers, brandies, cocktails, wine, juicesor just mineral water. Sarajevo is very see-and-beseen, busy, and the citys notoriously beautiful womenfolk dress accordingly. A handy rule-of-thumb is to assume that a waiter will find you almost as soon as you arrive in an establishment: do not order your drinks at the bar. Prices are almost the same everywhere, so think of paying about 2 for a large half-litre of beer, about 3-5 for a cocktail, and somewhere in between for wine. Its well worth trying the local brandies, made from plums (slivovitz), grapes(rakiya), walnuts (orahovaca), cherries (visnavaca,) and apricots (kajsija). Bosnia has a healthy drinking culture, and loud, affable, friendly behaviour is the norm. Particularly since the war, this is a city that has been it, seen it and done it, so there is nothing you can do that has not been done or seen before. 04 42, www.centralcafe.co.ba. If youre young, Bosnian, female, probably beautiful and have got a few marks in the pocket of your hotpants or in your faux-designer handbag, on a Thursday, Friday or Saturday night you WILL be seen at Central Caf. Youll be drinking Nescafe, cherry-juice or possibly Bambus, which is Coca-Cola mixed with red wine. Youll be texting your friends, dancing and catching the eye of a lot of hair-gelled, metrosexually-dressed Bosnian males. If, however, you are a visitor to Sarajevo its simply great fun to go along and watch the action. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00. JABX
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Central Caf B-4, Strosmajerova 1, tel. (+387) 33 20
Delikatesna Radnja B-4, Obala Kulina Bana 10,
Symbol key
P Air conditioning E Live music T Child friendly R Internet O Casino 6 Animal friendly B Outside seating A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking J Old Town location W Wi-Fi V Home delivery
tel. (+387) 33 20 88 55, www.delikatesnaradnja. ba. On the edge of the Miljacka, this popular caf boasts good wireless internet, nice sandwiches, draft beer and a selection of teas and coffees. At weekends, or any time when its sunny, the outside seating area is packed with a more affluent-looking, stylish crowd, cars double parked, Sarajevos svelte twenty-something women drinking coffee and mingling in the sun. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:30 - 24:00. PTJABKXW
Hacienda B-4, Bazardzani 3, tel. (+387) 33 44 19
18, info@placetobe.ba, www.placetobe.ba. Sarajevos original cocktail bar, this lavish Mexican-themed enterprise in the centre of Baarija is a visual and relaxing retreat reminiscent of Seville or Guadalajara. Great cocktails such as Caipirinhas and Margaritas start at 4, as nocturnal Sarajevo descends to listen to Latin Jazz, Salsa and Cuban funk, see and be seen, dance and drink. QOpen 10:00 - 04:00. JAEBKXW
Havana B-4, Kundurdiluk 12, tel. (+387) 33 44 70 00.
Bars
Baghdad B-4, Bazardzani 4, tel. (+387) 33 53 72
18/(+387) 33 44 19 18, info@placetobe.ba, www. placetobe.ba. With its tasselled cushions, ornatelydecorated hanging glass lamps, blue and white tiles and conspicuously Moorish feel, this backstreet cocktail bar in Baarija has become very much in with Sarajevos twentysomething models, designers and party people. Extremely comfortable. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. JBXW
With its charming staff, high tile-topped tables with wroughtiron stools, and the floor-length glass windows open wide, this is a perfect place to watch Sarajevo pass by while you sip a beer or an espresso. Theres a bar in every town in the world that is themed on that hackneyed old clich, Cuba, and this is it. But done better than most. Intriguing internal dcor, including a fake wall that is actually a large mirror. QOpen 09:00 - 01:30. JBX
Je Club B-4, Zelenih Beretki 14, tel. (+387) 33
Barhana B-4, Djulagina Cikma 8, tel. (+387) 33 36
54 08/(+387) 33 44 77 27, info@barhana.ba, www. barhana.ba. Set in a cobbled street in Baarija, this is one of the top five bars in the whole city. The key to its success: good music, good-looking and cool customers, mainly Bosnian, easily-affordable drinks, friendly service and the best of eighties music. It suffices to say that Jasmina Mameledzija, Sarajevos uber-cool and glamorous original female DJ, names it as one of her favourite bars. Go along to see why. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. TJABKX
650 312, info@jez.ba, www.jez.ba. Je is a club, bar, restaurant and summer garden all in one. Come here to enjoy traditional live music tamburasi (a band playing tamburas - a small stringed guitar) or trubaci (a band playing trumpets) and for the ladies there are free cocktails available on Saturdays. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00.
Barka B-4, Kundurdiluk 10, tel. (+387) 33 537 273,
www.clubbarka.ba. Walk in to Barka and youd think the Dalmatian coast had just washed up in downtown Sarajevo. The bar is made from part of an old fishing-boat, nautical and maritime impedimenta hang from the ceilings and walls, and theres a faint feeling of being on a permanent holiday. Efficient staff zip between the busy downstairs and the quieter snogging lounge upstairs. A garden in summer draws in the Bosnian diaspora crowd home on holiday. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00. JBX
Rock that fiddle!
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nightlife
Mash B-3, Branilaca Sarajeva 20/I, tel. (+387) 33 48
90 33/(+387) 33 205 490. Much of Sarajevos charm is that many of its attractions are not apparent, or even hidden. Were it not for the noise coming from its location on the first-floor terrace of a nondescript tower-block next to The National Theatre, you could easily miss this hip, stylish bar, with seats outside on a terrace. Popular with a younger crowd, it is often refurbished. Expect it to look like the interior of a ocean-liner, a spaceship or a drawing-room. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. JBX
Nostalgija Mukevita 10. Like name, like bar. Post-war
melancholia and fond memories of better days seem to hang over this tiny, somehow charming establishment set in an alley just off Ferhadija. The owner and barmans an old Sarajevo DJ and soldier of note, the clientele a variety of semi-pickled Sarajevo regulars who float on the lesser fringes of the citys artistic community. Fun, but not exactly lively. QOpen 10:30 - 24:00.
Opera B - 3, Branilaca Sarajeva 25, tel. (+387)
Someone came to party
Kino Bosna B-2; B-3; C-2; D-2, Alipaina 19. This
theatre-cum-bar is ground zero for Sarajevos alternative crowd and home to the cheapest beer in town. The bar is essentially just the lobby of an old cinema - which still shows a film every once and while and hosts the odd thrash/metal/ hardcore concert - but most nights the place is packed and the party is forced to spread outside onto the terrace, front steps and street. In recent years its made its way onto the tourist map, so you probably wont be the only foreigner there. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. J6ENBS
6 1 1 5 6 9 4 3 , f a x (+ 3 87 ) 3 3 2 2 1 9 4 0, i n f o @ caffebaropera.ba, www.caffebaropera.ba. Located opposite Mash bar, Operas high stools and tall tables pull in a twenty-and-thirty something crowd, with good cocktails and slick service, and occasional live music. The back room is filled with low-slung sofas, popular with younger couples and teenagers on dates, all of whom tend to live at home with their parents. They sip warm Nescaf and fruit juices and snog their way contentedly through the afternoon and early evening. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. JBX pravdasarajevo@gmail.com, www.pravdasarajevo. c o m . S a ra j evos b ea u ti fu l l y d e si g n e d b a r o f t h e moment boasts com for table sofas and high stools on which to perch and lounge, and good Croatian and Argentinian wines and snacks. Spot Bosnian President Haris Silajdzic on sofas next to Bosnian and Serb models and designers, international diplomats and local celebrities. Great fun. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. JA6EBX
Pravda B-3, Radieva 4c, tel. (+387) 33 55 82 15,
L.A. C-2, Merhemia Trg 14, tel. (+387) 61 432
184/(+387) 61 376 009. L.A. is a new cocktail bar and organizes events and fashion shows worthy of attention. Summer time out in the big garden is crowded and lively. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PEX
Ribica B -3, Kaptol 5, tel. (+387) 33 21 53 69.
Marquee B-4, Obala Kulina Bana 6, tel. (+387) 61 132
117, info@ilijas.net, www.marquee.net.tf. Legend has it that Marquee never closes till the last customer passes out. You know youve had a premium night-out in Sarajevo when you end up in Marquee, with its rock memorabilia, chatty, friendly staff and the most-grafittied toilets in south-eastern Europe. Bottled beers and cocktails flow, while a mixture of leathery old rockers, gorgeous Sarajevo ber-babes, mindbogglingly drunk EU peacekeepers and students happily rub shoulders. Most of them will have forgotten the following day that they went to Marquee at all. Fantastic. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. JX
Meaning little fish, this is the most original bar in Sarajevo. Opera, theatre and concer t posters line the walls, customers like Dejla Glavovi, Bosnias supermodel face of Ralph Lauren, sip coffee and beers, comfortable stools and plush banquettes with gilded mirrors bring to mind a cross between a mini-brasserie from Paris, a Viennese coffee house and a bar. Eccentric owner Slobodan plays country rock, folk and blues from a 13,000-strong song collection. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. JBX
Casinos
Coloseum Club A-2, Terezije bb (KSC Skenderija),
tel. (+387) 33 250 860/(+387) 33 250 880, fax (+387) 33 250 861, coloseum@hit-bih.com.ba, www.coloseum-club.com. Enter tainment center Coloseum offers relaxed socializing, concerts, entertaining events and top enjoyment. In the Arena Restaurant you can enjoy a romantic dinner, numerous concerts by top local ar tsits, theatre plays, fashion shows and dance performances. Theres also a casio with table games and slot machines and a large conference room for business events and meetings. Q Open 00:00 - 24:00. POJHAULEBKX
Maral Tito Bihacka 19, tel. (+387) 61 92 30 42.
This used to be a great, very individual bar themed on the late Marshal Tito, set on the edge of the river in Hrasno a couple of kilometres outside the centre of town. Now its moved to a new site behind the National Museum, with a huge outdoor seating area and a collection of machine-guns displayed on the walls. To find it, just look for the disused tanks and abandoned Mi-17 Helicopter gunship on the grass behind the National Museum. Its next to them. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
nightlife
Clubs
Aqua Disco Mali Kiseljak 8, Ilida, tel. (+387) 33
625 500. A big-stage disco with DJs and live music. Its part of a swimming-pool complex, where some like to mix, swimming and dancing. Great for the summer time! Q PEBXC and other beveragesof good quality. When there is a live band, its especially good fun! QOpen 09:00 - 03:00.
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Cheers B-4, Muvekita 4, tel. (+387) 62 476 476/(+387)
Buddha Bar B-3, Radieva 10, tel. (+387) 61 172

894, dandza@info.ba. Dancing and drinking club with great selection of seventies and eighties music and friendly bar-staff. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00. JX
62 622 210, denis_stojnec@hotmail.de. A great place to start a night out. The wood and brick interior and excellent service provide an environment for enjoyment with your friends and collegues. They offer a wide choice of beer, whiskeys, and alcoholic beverages, with quality live music and themed entertainment. QOpen 08:00 - 05:00. PJEK
Fis B-3, Musala bb, tel. (+387) 33 21 65 19, info@
City Pub B-4, Despiceva bb, tel. (+387) 33 209 789,
bock.ba, www.bock.ba. Compact dancing club with black and white interior dcor and a hedonistic, engagingly chaotic Bosnian clientele. Free entry. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. For more info visit: www.myspace.com/bocksarajevo. EX
The Club B-3, Marala Tito 7, tel. (+387) 33 550
550/(+387) 33 208 288, fax (+387) 33 208 288, theclub.sarajevo@gmail.com, www.theclub.ba. Large, classy nightclub with live music, a good restaurant and fantastic service. Free entry. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Drinks from KM 3-6. PAEBKX
www.citypub.co.ba. Sarajevos most efficient waiters make everybody welcome at this jolly, popular city-centre pub, from uber-pretty university girls, tourists, off-duty European peacekeepers, resident internationals, Bosnian businessmen, models and artists. A resident DJ turns out everything from David Bowie to The Beach Boys to FatBoy Slim. A half-litre of Sarajevsko or Tuborg will set you back 1.5, cocktails 3. Boisterous. QOpen 08:00 - 01:30. YABX
Guinness Pub B-4, Ferhadija 28, tel. (+387) 61 72
Pubs
Celtic Pub B-4, Ferhadija 12 (pasa), tel. (+387) 61
712 985/(+387) 61 916 565. One of the only urban hangouts in Sarajevo. In Celtic Pub you will feel the traditional Celtic spirit of the Bosnian way that guarantees a special pleasure for every guest. Try out the large selection of whiskies they have on offer, let alone the selection of beer
22 60. At first appearance this joint looks more like an alleyway with a makeshift bar at the end of it than a proper pub, but there are actually several sprawling cellar-type rooms downstairs and the place would be pleasant enough if not for the excruciatingly bad vocal techno music they tend to blast. However, its impossible to recommend a place called Guinness Pub when - and we cant stress this enough - they dont have any Guinness! No draught, no bottles, no cans, nothing. Simply unforgiveable. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PJAEB
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What to see
Downtown Sarajevo nestled amongst the rolling hills One of the beauties of Sarajevo is that it is small, making it easy to orientate yourself and start feeling at home as soon as you arrive. We make a few suggestions below about things to see and do in and around town, but youll quickly realise how much of the pleasure in a visit to Sarajevo is gained by simply wandering around and having a look at the wealth of interesting sights that lie around you. Walk down the boulevard called Vilsonovo Setaliste under the lime trees and watch the river Miljacka at dusk. Entrancing. The best way to get there is to take a taxi to the Vrbanja Bridge, and walk along the north side of the river all the way to Grbavica. There has been much reconstruction and repairing done in recent years and the physical scars of the war are becoming less and less visible. But the emotional ones remain for many: go to any of the three huge cemeteries in Ciglane and notice how many of the graves are dated between 1992-1995. Sit and enjoy the peace and quiet and reflect on how good ones lot in life actually is. The best way to get there is to walk from Marshal Tito away from the Eternal Flame in the city centre, follow the tram-lines, and turn right up Alipaina after about a kilometre. The cemeteries will be laid out on your right after a ten-minute walk. Take a taxi or tram out to Ilida and walk down the avenue under the plane trees that leads to the hot springs. Take care not to get run over by the horses and carriages clopping along, filled with sightseers enjoying the ride. Once you get back to the riverside, have coffee on the terrace at Caf Prestige. If youre feeling slightly more energetic, stroll along the Miljacka to Kozja uprija (Goat Bridge), an Ottoman-era structure where trading caravans once crossed and local pilgrims set off for Mecca. The bridge itself is an impressive structure and the more romantically-minded visitor will get a kick out of imagining the people, pack animals and products that have traversed it over the centuries. The easy flat walk along the river makes for a pleasant morning or afternoon excursion and, if you need to revive yourself for the wander back to town, you can get a coffee or cool drink at the nearby caf. Just follow the riverside path, keeping the water to your right on your way out to the bridge, and you cant go wrong. Hire a car or take a taxi and drive up to Mount Bjelanica outside Sarajevo. The route takes you up Mount Igman where wartime mines still lurk in the forests at the side of the road. At Bjelanica have lunch at the Srebrna Lisica restaurant - the name means Silver Fox - and watch the fantastic mountain scenery and the ski slopes where some of the 1984 Olympic events were held. No weekend in Sarajevo or visit to Bosnia would be complete without taking a 45-minute drive to the beautiful mountain forests and countryside of Romanija, which lies outside the town of Sokolac north-east of Sarajevo. Dont forget to visit Sokolac itself: a visit to Caf Victoria is a must. A hidden treat.
What to see
Galleries
National Gallery of BiH B-4, Zelenih Beretki 8,
tel. (+387) 33 26 65 50. Located near the Orthodox Cathedral, the nations national gallery provides a fine introduction to the eclectic work of Bosnias artists, both contemporary and those representing the countrys rich artistic traditions from the past. Photography, sculpture, paintings and installations are all represented in a collection that has been curated around color themes and schemes. Entry to the gallery is free but some coins or a note dropped into the collection boxes dotted throughout will help the gallery continue to operate, and also acquire and exhibit the artworks of a country well-known for its artists. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Tue-Sat 12:00-20:00, closed Sun & Mon (+387) 33 66 80 26/(+387) 33 66 80 27, fax (+387) 33 26 27 10, z.muzej@zemaljskimuzej.ba, www. zemaljskimuzej.ba. Located next to the Historical Museum and old-fashioned in the nicest possible way, the National Museum covers a lot of ground in the three buildings open to the public. Permanent exhibitions examine the life and history of Bosnias inhabitants - animal, vegetable and mineral - under the Departments of Archaeology, Ethnology and Natural History. The oldest cultural institution in BiH, the museum has its fair share of dioramas and insects in cases but these seem to add to its charm. And, temporary exhibitions such as the one on hand-made Bosnian womens shirts that was showing at the time of writing demonstrate that the museum is also able to mount contemporary, atmospheric and well thought out exhibitions that would not be out of place in any of the worlds leading institutions. When you add in treasures such as some beautiful Roman mosaics and the world famous 14th century Sarajevo Haggadah you have a museum well worth a visit and where your small entry fee (5 KM) will help to keep it operating. If the stuffed bears and skewered bugs start to get to you, escape out into the Botanical Gardens where the hundreds of trees and other plants from around the globe provide a living, breathing lung in the centre of the complex. Q Tue-Fri 10:00-15:00, Sun 10:00-14:00, closed Mon & Sat Admission: 5 KM.
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National Museum B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne 3, tel.
Museums
Brusa Bezistan B-4, Baarija, tel. (+387) 33
239 590, www.muzejsarajeva.ba. This Ottomanera covered market with its six large domes is one of Baarijas most recognisable buildings. Designed by Rustem Pasha, Grand Vizier to Suleiman the Great, in 1551 the structure long served as the citys centre of trade and commerce. It was heavily damaged during the siege, but has since been restored and today its part of the Museum of Sarajevo with a permanent exhibition spanning all the way from antiquity through to the end of the Austro-Hungarian empire. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Around Sarajevo
Despi House (Despia Kua) B-4, Despieva
2, tel. (+387) 33 475 740, www.muzejsarajeva.ba. Originally built during the 17th century, the house belonged to a wealthy Orthodox family of traders and art patrons who are credited with organising Sarajevos first theatre performances. Nowadays the quaint pink and white building along Obala Kulina Bana is part of the Museum of Sarajevo and serves as a well-preserved cultural museum whose friendly staff seem more than happy to give impromptu history lesson or even tours. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Historical Museum of BiH B-1; B-2, Zmaja od
Bosne 5, tel. (+387) 33 21 04 18, histmuz@bih.net. ba. It is horribly ironic but also authentic that a museum such as this, badly damaged during the siege, should now house the permanent exhibtion Surrounded Sarajevo which looks at the impact of the nearly four years of war on the citys citizens.Downstairs is an exhibition on the history of Bosnia and Herzegovina from the earliest recorded mentions through to the Communist era but it is the upstairs that is most likely to attract and repel, move and educate the visitor to Sarajevo. Here, in a non-partisan or judgemental fashion, the story of the siege is told through photographs and artefacts, from hand-made heating, cooking and fighting implements to aid items that came in from abroad. Most harrowing perhaps are the images of and by children, trying to live a normal childhood in the most abnormal of conditions - few visitors could fail to be moved by the bloodstained school satchels and workbooks that are the legacy of a shell-strike on a lesson in progress. Like many cultural institutions in BiH the museum struggles for funds so the modest 4 KM entry fee you pay will do a little to help and in return provide an experience you are not likely to forget. Permanent Exhibits: Sarajevo under Siege, B&H Through Centuries. Q Tue-Fri 09:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 09:00-13:00, closed Mon 4 KM.
Lukomir The inhabitants of Lukomir, a stone built
village on the slopes of Bjelasnica mountain, live the high life - located at nearly 1500 metres the town is the highest inhabited settlement in Bosnia. Cut off for much of the winter, Lukomir boasts a newly built lodge for those wanting to spend a few days exploring nearby sights such as the 800-metre deep Rakitnica Canyon and the Studeno Polje Valley. But it is age that makes Lukomir of most interest, for here you can get a glimpse into life as it was largely lived hundreds of years ago. Situated about 90 minutes drive away from Sarajevo, Lukomir can be reached by car, organised tour or bus.
Visoko Pyramids A worldwide jury of archaeologists

is still out when it comes to the question of whether these large mounds of mystery in the countryside some 30km north of Sarajevo were made by the hands of man or constructed by mother nature - although nature is currently dominating the debate. Either way, the Visoko pyramids make for an interesting day trip. Visoko means high place and visitors can enjoy the alpine scenery of the region while pondering the pyramid puzzle.
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What to see
Sights
Avaz Tower B-1; B-2; C-2, Tesanjska 24b. Its a case
of I can see my hotel from up here when you are standing on the observation deck of the Avaz Twist Tower. Sarajevo is quite a sight when viewed from 172 metres up the twister as this column of smoky blue glass is known. Situated near the train station in Marin Dvor, and thats enough directions as its hard to miss, the lookout floor, with both indoor and outdoor areas, provides stunning views of the city below and the mountains fading off in the distance. One floor down is a cafe-bar where you can drink in a hot or cold beverage with the view. Open every day from 8:00 until 23:00 the tower offers a unique twist on seeing Sarajevo and it only costs a mark to take the fast trip to the top.
Sarajevo Museum 1878-1918 B-4, Zelenih Beretki
1, tel. (+387) 33 533 288, info@muzejsarajeva.ba, www.muzejsarajeva.ba. Located on the spot where Gavrilo Princip assassinated Archduke Franz Ferdinand - the heir the Austro-Hungarian throne and namesake of at least one modestly successful Scottish rock band - which of course led to a declaration of war on Serbia and the beginning of World War I. Opened in 2007 after extensive renovations, the well-designed, visitor-friendly museum details the years of Austro-Hungarian rule in Sarajevo and the effects it had on the city, from political and administrative changes to art and architecture, and everything in between. Q Open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-15:00, Closed Sun. From 15 Oct - 14 Apr closes at 16:00 on weekdays.
Baarija B-5; B-4, . Get used to pronouncing the name Baarija (Bosh-CHAR-shee-ya) as this mouthful of letters is not only the heart and soul of Sarajevo and a striking reminder of its Ottoman past, but also home to - or at least the point of reference for - a majority of the citys hotels, restaurants, sights and nightspots. While the area was the centre of trade and commerce during the Ottomans lengthy rule (the name itself means central market in English), nowadays its rebuilt lanes are packed with a mix of locals, independent travellers and tour groups virtually around the clock: eating, shopping, drinking or just soaking up the atmosphere during an evening stroll. Catholic Cathedral (Katedrala Srca Isusova)
B-4, Ferhadija bb. The Cathedral of Jesus Heart is the largest church in the country, and an impressive fixture of Sarajevos skyline. Well restored after being heavily damaged in the war, it was built in 1889 by Josip Vancas, the same architect who designed the post office. Outside, the steps provide a popular meeting and resting place. Inside, with the pastel blue and cream walls and some beautiful stained glass, busy Ferhadija seems a hundred miles and a hundred years away. The sense of peace so often found in places of worship permeates the cathedral so if you enter make sure your cell phone is firmly switched to off.
Tunnel Museum Tuneli 1, Ilida, tel. (+387) 33 62
85 91. It might be small, but its definitely sincere - few museums move visitors to tears but the Tunnel Museum packs a powerful punch. Dug during the war, the tunnel linked the besieged city to the free zone beyond the airport, providing a life and supply line through which passed the aged and the injured, food and fuel, soldiers and cigarettes. Today, only about 20 metres of the original 700 metre length is accessible but even so crouching your way through the dim, dank passage gives a tiny taste of how a full-on crossing may have felt. The museum proper is inside one of the two houses which provided the entry/exit points. In addition to wartime memorabilia, visitors can view video footage of the siege and the tunnels construction and operation. Usually the video plays to a pin-drop silence interrupted only by intakes of breath as visitors watch shells shoot across the Sarajevo sky and slam into apartment blocks, the National Library ablaze, and soldiers and civilians alike making their way through this dirt and timber lifesaver. Moving, memorable, not to be missed.
Eternal Flame B-3, Marala Tita. At the junction of

Ferhadija and Marsala Titova streets, the Eternal Flame and cupola behind it commemorates the partisans who fought in WWII. Its nice, and in a focal part of town, but it needs a brush-and-scrub, a bit of doing-up and a couple of smartly-uniformed police officers on guard duty to give tough and short shrift to the tedious Roma children that beg nearby.
Parks
Vrelo Bosne Ilida. A lush green oasis at the source of
the River Bosne, the park may only be 12km southwest of the city centre in the suburb of Ilida, but its a world away from the hustle and bustle of Sarajevo. Even without the urban contrast its quite an idyllic place with swans, waterfalls, Austro-Hungarian palaces and horse-drawn carriages all competing for attention, and if youre there on a Saturday youre more likely than not to see at least one wedding party. Its easily combined with a trip to the Tunnel Museum, and there are several outdoor cafs selling drinks and lights snacks.
Catholic Cathedral
What to see
monuments and their own safety. Also on the site are a chapel, a fountain and several monuments dedicated to the victims of fascism. Though it can be walked to and one can get relatively close by public transport, a taxi might be the easiest way for visitors who dont fancy the steep uphill climb.
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Jewish Museum B-4, Mula Mustafe Baeskije bb, tel. (+387) 33 21 55 32/(+387) 33 53 56 88, fax (+387) 33 47 57 49, kontakt@muzejsarajeva.ba, www.muzejsarajeva.ba. The bare stone walls and timber floors of this museum, located in a Sarajevo synagogue built in 1581, provide an aesthetically pleasing space for a small but well designed and laid out museum dedicated to the citys long Jewish history. Along with religious artifacts the museum displays personal and professional objects associated with notable local writers, artists, composers and humanitarian workers. On the upper floor the displays turn their attention to one of the darkest periods in human history. The 12000 Jewish Bosnian victims of the Holocaust are commemorated in a large book bearing their names while photographs, documents and items such as concentration camp clothing provide the faces behind these names and a testament to their suffering and the Jewish communitys ultimate survival. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat. Latin Bridge B- 4, Obala Kulina Bana. The name
Latinska uprija may not mean much to the casual visitor to Sarajevo but mention Franz Ferdinand and World War I to anyone who did modern history in high school and the penny will drop. Dating from 1798 the structure is a fine example of Ottoman bridge design in itself, but thats not why it is world-famous. Latinska uprija is best-known as the place where the heir to the Austrian throne, Archduke Franz Ferdinand, and his pregnant wife were assassinated on 28 June 1914 by a Bosnian Serb nationalist, Gavrilo Princip. Beyond a plaque at the site and a small museum nearby little fuss is made of its notoriety but standing here you are at the place where Princip fired his pistol and where the rest, as they say, is history.
Ghazi Husrev-beg
Ghazi Husrev-beg B-4, Veliki Sarai, tel. (+387)
33 53 43 75, vakuf-gazi@lsinter.net, www.vakufgazi.ba. The Gazi Husrev-Beg Mosque was built by the famous Ottoman architect Mirnar Sinan and is considered to be one of the most important Islamic buildings in Bosnia. Gazi Husrev-beg had it constructed by the Persian architect in an early Istanbul style in 1531. The 45m-high minaret towers over the 26m-high dome and the surrounding area. The grounds include an abdest hana, or washing room, a wooden sadrvan (fountain), a mekteb, or primary school, and a muvekithana, or prayer callers home. To the left are two elaborate 16th century buildings. The large red house in the enclosed garden behind the Careva mosque was the official residence of the Ottoman rulers of Bosnia, and is also the place where the heavily wounded Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his wife were brought, and died, after they had been shot by Gavrilo Princip in 1914.
Jewish Cemetary A-4. Located on the front-line during
the war this historic cemetery was severely damaged during that time and now faces an ever-present threat from landslides due to its steep hillside location. Ongoing rescue and restoration work has seen some of the 3800+ tombstones repaired but much remains to be done and about 95% of the stones are still damaged. On the site, located in the Kovaii-Debelo Brdo area and not far above the transit road, visitors can wander through one of the largest Jewish cemeteries in Europe. Containing graves from the 16th century onwards, the cemetery is an integral part of Jewish history in the region and an atmospheric and interesting place for the casual visitor though those wandering through should be aware that the site is in poor condition and be careful of both the gravestones and
The pseudo-Moorish Vijenica
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What to see
Morica Han B-4, Saraci 77. Morica Han dates from
1551 and is the best preserved inn in Sarajevo. Its beautiful cobbled courtyard is surrounded by old stables and store houses and lodging rooms upstairs. Now home to a restaurant and a youth organisation. There is also a carpet shop with stacks of rugs where stables used to be. Youre free to stroll around, have a coffee or something to eat, or buy a beautiful carpet.
National Library B-4, Mustaj-pasin mejdan, tel.
(+387) 33 275 301, fax (+387) 33 218 431, nubbih@ nub.ba, www.nub.ba. The National Library, once the town hall and now called Vijecnica, was constructed by Alexander Wittek in 1896. On 25 August 1992 a shell fired from the lines of the Serbian forces besieging Sarajevo wiped out a large part of the Bosnian literary heritage that was kept in the building - over two million books and documents went up in flames. As the plaque outside cautions, Do not forget, remember and warn! Restoration work is still ongoing and Vijecnica is almost entirely boarded-up, although a stroll around the outside of this battered but still beautiful building is well worth the walk and art exhibitions are held from time to time in the shattered interior.
Orthodox Cathedral B-4, Zelenih Beretki bb. Inside

the large, wonderfully cool and calming interior of the Church of the Most Holy Mother of God, which dates from 1868, are large iconostases holding icons made in Russia, installed here by Russian masons sent by Tsar Alexander II. As a proof of religious tolerance, Sultan Abdul Aziz, and the Prince of Serbia donated 500 gold ducats towards the construction of the building. Serb forces shot up their own church during the war and the Greek government is now involved in helping restore the damage. Once you feel that youve soaked up enough of the spiritual you can wander outside this imposing multi-domed, pale mustard-colored building and watch the men playing chess on the giant board just outside on the square.
Get ready to haggle
Orthodox Church B-4, Mula Mustafe Baeskije
59. Sitting between the mosques is the ancient Serbian Orthodox church of St. Michael the Archangel, which dates from medieval times: the foundations and the unusual arcade structures are even early Christian, from the 5th and 6th century. A tad unprepossessing outside, the interior is beautiful with gilded icons and a balcony lit by candles and low light, and the scent of incense in the air. Inside glass cases are a few anatomical relics of saints such as bones. The current structure that dates from 1740 was ironically badly damaged by Serb shells during the siege.
Sebilj B-4, . If you are already wondering how soon you can
make a return visit to Sarajevo take a drink from the public fountain in Sebilj square and, according to local legend, you wont stay away for long. Built in 1891 from a design by Czech architect Alexander Wittek, the stone and timber Moorish-style fountain is the centerpiece of the main square in the old town. You can stroll between the restaurants and souvenir shops and watch the pigeons that give the square its better-known name descend on anyone kindly or foolhardy enough to pay a mark for a cup of corn - literally birdfeed for bird food. And if you want a cup of real Bosnian coffee, here is the place to get both it and a ringside seat for watching Sarajevo stroll by.
Svrzos House C-4, Glodina 8, tel. (+387) 33 53 52
Orthodox Cathedral
64. Svrzos House reflects the lifestyle of a wealthy Muslim family lifestyle during the time of the Ottoman Empire. Visitors can inspect the separate living quarters of the men, women and servants and note the spacious comfort of the rooms used for receiving and entertaining guests. The house is in an extremely well-preserved condition, especially considering that it is constructed completely from wood, a building material not commonly used in the region in relatively modern times. A quiet courtyard would have provided the occupants with a pleasant and private outdoor sitting area, as it now does for the visitor, but it is the interior that provides the most interest. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
getting around
Public transport
Gras Public Transport Operator umurija 4, tel.
(+387) 33 20 38 19/(+387) 33 29 33 33, fax (+387) 33 45 21 86, gras@gras.co.ba, www.gras.co.ba. The main bus, tram and troley city operator is the company GRAS . You can buy city bus tickets at almost any news stand in the Sarajevo. The first ride is at 05:00 and the last at 01:00 a.m. Detail schedule is available in their office or on their web page. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. The ticket price is KM 1.60 from kiosks or KM 2 on the bus or trams. Daily tickets cost KM 5.40, weekly KM 12 and monthly KM 54. scheduled bus service to the centre so your best bets are to either prearrange a transfer through your hotel or grab a cab - there are usually quite a few lined up outside and the 12km trip will cost about 20-25 KM (10-12.50). As with all international airports, its not unheard of for taxi drivers to overcharge for a ride into town, especially if youre a foreigner - make sure the metre is switched on before you depart.
33
Public Transport
Bus Lines 14 Dom Armije - Podhrastovi 15 Marin Dvor - Bua potok 15B Otoka - Bua potok 16 Dom Armije - Bare 16A Dom Armije - Koevsko brdo II 16B Dom Armije - Koevsko brdo 17 Dom Armije - Breka 17B Dom Armije - Breka II 18 Drvenija - Pofalii 20 Park - Jagomir 20A Park - Jezero20B Park - ip 21 Sutjeska - Vogoa 21A Sutjeska - Maleii 22 Sutjeska - Ilija - Ljeevo 22A Stup - Vogoa 23 Marin Dvor - Rajlovac 23A Marin Dvor - Reljevo dom 23C Otoka - Boljakov potok 26 Stup - Dobroevii - Ahatovii 27 Ilida - Hrasnica 27A Ilida - Sokolovii 27B Ilida - Kovai (Hrasnica) 28 Ilida - Rakovica - Kobiljaa 30 Ilida - Hadii 31 Nedarii - Dobrinja 31E Vijenica - Dobrinja 32 Ilida - Butmir 33 Ilida - Tarin - Vukovii 34 Marin Dvor - Kiseljak 35 Sutjeska - Bakii 36 Nedarii - Naselje Aerodrom 37 Grbavica - Lukavica - Ilida 41 Drvenija - Gornji Veleii 41A Drvenija - Donji Veleii 42 Otoka - Dobrinja43 Ilida - Osijek 44 Franje Rakog - Bjelanica 45 Ilida - Dejii 46 Ilida - Vlakovo 47 Ilida - Trnovo 48 Ilida - Delijai Tram Lines 1 eljeznika stanica - Baarija 2 engi vila - Baarija 3 Ilida - Baarija 4 eljeznika stanica - Ilida 5 Nedarii - Baarija 6 Ilida - Skenderija 7 Nedarii - Skenderija Trolley Lines 101 Otoka - Drvenija 103 Dobrinja - Drvenija 104 Alipaino Polje - Drvenija
Bus travel
Both of Sarajevos bus stations are busy places, especially the main one near the train station which serves the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina and most international destinations. If you arrive here you can get a tram (number 1) or bus into the centre or grab a cab for around 5-6KM. There is also an ATM here and a few cafes and bars nearby if the journey has been long, gruelling or both. If you are coming from or heading to a destination in the Republika Srpska, Serbia proper or Montenegro you will arrive at or depart from Lukavica (aka Istochno Sarajevo) bus station in east Sarajevo. This station is on the fringes of the city and you can either get a taxi into town (about 25KM) or a bus from the local terminal which is about a 200 metre walk from the station. Cash can be obtained from the machine at the nearby TOM shopping centre. Signage at this bus station is predominately in Cyrillic script. If you are getting a taxi to the bus station make sure your driver knows which one you want - you can do this by explaining your destination to him.
Main Bus Station Put ivota 8, tel. (+387) 33 213
100/(+387) 33 213 010, fax (+387) 33 445 442, ctsbus@pksa.com.ba, www.centrotrans.com. The main bus operator is Centrotrans at the bus station.
Train travel
Bosnias rail infrastructure was badly damaged during the war and has yet to return to pre-war levels of operation. Most international visitors arriving by train will be coming from Zagreb or Budapest on the daily trains which arrive at 18:30 and 06:25 respectively. There is also a train to and from Ploe on the southern coast of Croatia which is worth looking into as the journey, via Mostar, is very scenic. Sarajevos train station is right near the bus station and you can get into the heart of town via a bus, tram or 5 - 6KM taxi ride. There is no ATM at the station but there is one about 200 metres away at the bus station - just turn right when you come out of the station, go around and past the main post office and the bus station is straight ahead.
Train Station Sarajevo Put ivota 2, tel. (+387) 33 65 53 30. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Air travel
Sarajevo airport (International Airport Butmir) is small and rarely too busy, helping it avoid the long baggage, immigration and customs queues that plague many of Europes other capital city airports. It has the facilities found at most airports including tourist information and currency exchange, a bar and cafe, an ATM and a souvenir shop. There is no regular
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getting around
Local bus schedule
From Sarajevo First Last 05:00 23:30 07:30 05:00 14:30 12:15 06:30 06:45 10:00 10:30 15:30 10:00 07:20 07:45 07:45 07:30 05:30 08:00 08:30 14:00 08:30 10:00 10:00 07:30 05:45 05:30 07:30 10:00 12:15 06:00 10:00 13:00 05:00 10:00 00:30 07:45 07:45 07:00 15:30 07:10 14:30 07:00 07:30 05:00 05:00 06:45 15:30 06:00 07:30 05:30 05:40 12:15 22:00 05:00 14:30 12:15 15:35 20:45 19:00 14:30 15:30 10:00 07:20 18:30 18:30 22:00 19:55 08:00 08:30 14:00 17:00 10:00 10:00 22:00 20:50 20:50 22:00 10:00 14:30 17:00 10:00 13:00 20:00 14:00 00:30 18:30 18:30 15:50 15:30 07:10 17:00 17:15 22:00 18:00 18:00 20:45 15:30 21:30 22:00 21:00 15:30 14:30 City Banja Luka Biha Bijeljina Bosanska Dubica Bosanski Brod Brko Breza Bugojno Busovaa Cazin apljina eli Derventa Doboj Donji Vakuf Fojnica Gorade Gorade Gornji Rahii Gradaac Hadii Jablanica Jajce Kakanj Kiseljak Klju Konjic Maglaj Mostar Neum Novi Travnik Olovo Pale Prijedor Prijedor Prnjavor Renovica Sanski Most
Srebrenica
To Sarajevo First Last # / day 05:00 17:00 6 07:30 16:10 22:30 05:54 05:00 05:45 05:45 06:40 23:50 17:30 07:00 07:45 08.30 06:05 05:30 16:30 14:30 06:35 05:30 20:15 19:05 07:10 05:00 06:00 06:00 19:30 03:20 06:00 16:30 07:10 06:10 11:00 05:30 05:30 07:15 06:00 05:00 16:30 06:10 06:30 02:45 04:00 05:30 05:30 23:00 05:30 07:10 06:00 06:00 03:40 22:00 16:10 22:30 05:54 15:00 19:20 17:30 12:15 23:50 17:30 07:00 15:45 16:30 01:40 19:30 16:30 14:30 06:35 13:45 20:15 19:05 00:50 20:00 20:00 23:40 19:30 07:45 18:15 16:30 07:10 18:45 15:00 05:30 05:30 15:15 15:50 05:00 16:30 11:10 15:30 06:50 18:00 18:00 18:45 23:00 20:30 19:20 20:30 16:45 07:30 3-4 1 1 1 3 10-22 3-4 2 1 1 1 2 2 9 - 10 8 1 1 1 2 1 1 6 13-22 8-13 4 1 2 8-11 1 1 15-16 2 1 1-2 2 2 1 1 2 3 11-12 14-15 13 7-8 1 11-23 7-11 10-21 3 2
25/(+387) 33 46 43 31, fax (+387) 33 23 36 92, adr. sarajevo@adria.si, www.adria.si. The national Slovenian airline flies regularly to Sarajevo. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. A Austrian Airlines Kurta Schorka 36, tel. (+387) 33 28 92 42/(+387) 33 45 12 13, fax (+387) 33 45 12 13, office.sjj@aua.com, www.aua.com. Austrian Airways operates flights from Vienna to Sarajevo. The Austrian airport office also represents Lufthansa. QOpen 05:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A BH Airlines Branilaca grada broj 15, tel./fax (+387) 33 55 01 26, tel. (+387) 33 55 01 25, agencija@ bhairlines.ba, www.airbosna.ba. The national airline carrier of Bosnia & Herzegovina. Q A Butmir International Airport Kurta Schorka 36, tel. (+387) 33 28 91 00, www.sarajevo-airport.ba. QOpen 06:30 - 22:00. AGKX Croatia Airlines Kranjevieva 4/I, tel. (+387) 33 66 61 23/(+387) 33 25 86 00, fax (+387) 33 258 600, sjjto@croatiaairlines.hr, www.croatiaairlines.hr. The national airline of Croatia. Operates flights to Sarajevo from Zagreb. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Lufthansa Kurta Schorka 36, tel. (+387) 33 28 92 42/(+387) 33 45 12 13, www.lufthansa.de. The German airline operates services from Koln, Stuttgart, Munchen and Frankfurt to Sarajevo. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Malev Zelenih beretki 6, tel. (+387) 33 21 62 40/(+387) 33 47 32 01, fax (+387) 33 46 71 05, sarajevo@malev.hu, www.malev.hu. The national Hungarian airline operates services from Budapest to Sarajevo. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 15:30. Turkish Airlines Kulovica 5, tel. (+387) 33 21 29 38/(+387) 33 46 57 31, fax (+387) 33 47 03 31, www. thy.com. The Turkish airline operates regular services from Instanbul to Sarajevo. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Adria Airways Ferhadija 23/2, tel. (+387) 33 23 21
Car rental
Avis Kurta Schorka 36, tel. (+387) 33 46 99 33/(+387)
33 289 278, fax (+387) 33 474 055, info@avis.ba, www.avis.ba. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. A CITO Dzemala Bijedica 185 - Hotel Radon Plaza, tel. (+387) 33 76 98 90/(+387) 63 83 00 14, fax (+387) 33 76 98 91, info@cito.ba, www.cito.ba. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Europcar Bulevar Mese Selimovica 16, tel. (+387) 33 76 03 60, fax (+387) 33 76 03 61, reservation@ europcar.ba, www.europcar.ba. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. . Rabbit Akifa eremeta 58, tel. (+387) 62 22 99 11/(+387) 61 96 62 93, info@rabbit.ba, www.rabbit. ba. Rents Smart cars from its location near the airport. Virtus Muvekita 7, tel. (+387) 33 22 36 26/(+387) 33 22 36 26, fehim@virtus.ba, www.virtusrent.ba. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Stolac Teanj Travnik Tuzla Vare Velika Kladua Visoko Vitez Zenica Zvornik epe
getting around
Local train schedule
From Sarajevo First 06:45 10:27 07:10 10:27 07:14 06:45 06:45 06:45 10:27 07:14 04:40 10:27 06:45 04:40 07:10 06:45 06:45 07:14 06:45 06:45 04:40 07:14 07:14 04:40 06:45 10:27 06:45 07:10 06:45 04:40 10:27 04:40 07:10 04:40 21:20 06:45 10:27 04:40 07:14 04:40 07:14 06:45 Last 18:18 21:20 19:30 21:20 07:14 19:30 18:18 18:18 21:20 21:20 19:11 21:20 18:18 19:11 19:30 19:30 18:18 21:20 19:30 18:18 19:11 21:20 07:14 19:11 18:18 21:20 18:18 19:30 19:30 21:20 21:20 19:11 19:30 19:11 21:20 18:18 21:20 21:20 21:20 21:20 21:20 18:18 City Baevi Banja Luka Blauj Bosanski novi Bosanski amac Bradina apljina elebiI elinac Doboj Dobrinje Dragalovci Drenica Drivua Grad Hadii Jablanica Kakanj Konjic Kruevii Lava Maglaj Modria Modrinje Mostar Omarska Ostroac Ovari Pazari Podlugovi Prijedor Rajlovac Ratelica Semizovac Stanari urmanici Ukrina Visoko Zavidovii Zenica epe itomislii To Sarajevo First 07:26 13:15 06:24 11:44 16:48 05:44 7:00 08:43 13:29 03:26 05:58 14:29 08:00 05:24 05:34 06:15 05:49 05:28 05:14 07:11 05:32 03:54 17:09 05:40 07:38 12:36 08:36 05:24 06:06 05:52 18:18 06:40 05:55 06:30 02:49 07:09 14:02 05:45 04:15 05:02 16:11 07:17 Last 18:28 01:24 18:36 23:51 16:48 20:11 18:02 19:40 01:38 18:14 20:07 02:42 19:02 15:38 17:38 20:39 19:26 20:17 19:47 18:13 15:46 18:42 17:09 15:54 18:40 00:45 19:33 17:28 20:31 20:41 00:26 20:49 17:59 20:39 02:49 18:11 02:19 20:34 19:03 19:51 04:26 18:19 # / day 2 2 3 2 1 2-3 2 2 2 3 6 2 2 5 3 2-3 2-6 3 2-3 2 5 3 1 5 2 2 2 3 2-3 3-5 2 5 3 5 1 2 2 3-6 3 3-5 3 2
35
Car travel
Sarajevos roads are much improved from a few years ago but this in turn may have contributed to the ever-increasing volume of traffic. Coming in and out of town is fairly straightforward with good signposting to the Centar but once in the heart of town non-local drivers need to contend with narrow streets, lots of one-way and No Entry roads and the local drivers, who tend to be impatient behind the wheel and dont mind using their horn to give a blast to anyone too slow to respond to a changed traffic signal. Those used to congested inner-cities wont find it too much of a problem but the more hesitant may be best to leave the car parked at or near their hotel and use public transport, taxis and foot-power for getting around, all of which are less stressful and will give you the opportunity to see and experience a lot more than if you are gripping the wheel and gritting your teeth. This also gets rid of the problem of finding somewhere to park in the car-crowded centre. Drivers are required by law to have their headlights on at all times. This is mainly for safety reasons and when you enter one of Bosnias long tunnels youll be glad it is so. Another safety factor to bear in mind is that roads can be hazardous during the winters, with ice, fog and snow providing a challenge to all but the most experienced of mountainous terrain in winter drivers.
Taxis
Do not be surprised with the state of some of the cars you get into. There is no standard for vehicles that can be used as taxis in Sarajevo. Some of the taxi drivers can be very nice and polite but a large number of them are not. Dont be surprised if your taxi driver lights up a cigarette or turns up the volume on his stereo just because his favourite turbo folk song is on the radio.
clickandbuy.inyourpocket.com
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getting around
International bus schedule
From Sarajevo Days -2-----2----1234567 ---4-------61234567 1234-67 1234567 1234567 1234567 -----61234567 -----61234567 1234567 1234567 -----6-----61234567 -2-4--7 1234567 1234567 -----61234567 -----61234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 -----6----5-1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 -----6- 2 - - -6 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 Dep. 08:00 08:00 06:00 16:00 08:00 09:30 13:00 08:00 10:00 08:00 09:00 09:30 09:00 17:00 11:00 08:05 09:00 09:30 09:30 09:00 20:40 15:15 09:00 09:30 08:00 17:00 15:00 22:00 07:00 21:00 15:15 09:30 09:00 19:00 18:00 08:05 09:30 14:30 10:00 21:00 06:00 10:00 09:00 09:30 08:30 08:00 11:15 16:00 06:30 12:30 22:00 09:30 Arr. 13:10 10:25 13:10 23:10 07:40 11:30 17:05 15:20 15:50 09:20 21:00 01:30 19:15 19:25 18:50 01:50 15:40 21:00 04:45 23:30 06:00 03:10 17:00 22:00 02:50 08:10 22:00 05:45 14:00 04:30 02:10 06:00 14:30 04:30 02:50 23:20 13:50 21:10 18:00 04:30 13:35 18:00 02:00 08:30 09:00 22:45 23:30 23:55 14:50 20:55 06:00 16:00 City Amsterdam Antwerpen Belgrade Belgrade Berlin Berlin Berlin Dortmund Dubrovnik Frankfurt Gotenborg Gotenborg Graz Hamburg Herceg Novi Innsbruck Copenhagen Copenhagen Linkoping Linz Ljubljana Ljubljana Malmo Malmo Mnchen Mnchen Novi Pazar Novi Pazar Novi Pazar Novi Pazar Novo mesto Oslo Paris Pula Rijeka Salzburg Slavonski Brod Split Split Split Split Split Stockholm Stockholm Stockholm Vienna Vienna Zagreb Zagreb Zagreb Zagreb Zagreb To Sarajevo Days -2-----2----1234567 1234567 -----6----5-1234567 1234561234567 1234567 1234567 ----5-1234567 ----5-1234567 1234567 1234567 ----5----4--1234567 1 -3 -5 - 1234567 1234567 ----5-1234567 ----5-1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 ---4--------7 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 ---4---2--5-1234-67 1234-67 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 Dep. 08:00 10:45 06:00 16:00 10:00 17:00 07:00 05:00 15:00 11:00 13:30 02:30 21:15 05:00 08:00 16:00 18:30 07:30 22:30 17:00 19:15 20:00 17:30 06:30 18:00 16:25 10:15 14:00 07:00 22:00 21:00 21:30 14:00 14:30 16:00 18:35 19:10 06:00 16:00 09:30 07:00 09:30 09:00 17:00 16:00 18:00 18:00 18:50 06:30 12:30 22:00 16:45 Arr. 13:10 13:10 12:45 22:45 09:40 16:15 11:00 12:35 20:50 12:35 00:00 16:15 07:55 07:40 15:50 09:55 00:00 16:15 16:15 07:55 04:55 08:10 00:00 16:15 12:35 07:40 17:00 20:30 14:15 05:15 08:10 16:15 17:30 02:45 02:45 09:55 22:30 12:45 22:20 17:30 14:25 17:30 00:00 16:15 17:30 08:45 06:00 02:45 14:50 20:55 06:00 22:30 One way () 118 114 21 88 107 82 133 23 108 144 152 40 133 23 62 135 130 163 56 45 39 135 130 65 15
35 171 133 45 39 57 15 24 24 24 24 24 158 163 182 49 44 31 35 35 35 23
getting around
The standard starting rate for taxis and the rate per kilometre is 2 and 0.75 per kilometer. One hour waiting rate is 7.5 There is no difference in price if you order a taxi in advance. There are at least 50 different taxi ranks in the city. To get a taxi you just need to stand on the street and stop one or simply call one of the taxi services. There are about 1.200 taxis in the city. Samir i Emir taxi Travnicka 35, tel. (+387) 33 66 76 81. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Sarajevo taxi Tel. (+387) 33 15 15/(+387) 33 66 06 66, www.sarajevotaxi.com.ba. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Zuti taxi Bana Mateja Ninoslava 18, tel. (+387) 33 66 35 55. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
37
International train schedule

From Sarajevo Dep. Arr.
07:14 07:14 07:14 14:10 17:20 18:58 Beli manastir 14:22 Belgrade 06:20 Budapest 09:25 akovo 05:21 Dombovar 08:57 Hrvatska kostajnica 10:39 Hrvatska kostajnica 22:39 Lekenik 09:33 Lekenik 21:31 Ljubljana 06:15 Magyarboly 13:40 Metkovii 06:35 Metkovii 17:34 Munich 11:26 Munich 23:45 Osijek 14:54 Pecs 12:40 Ploe 06:05 Ploe 17:00 Sarbogard 10:49 Sasd 11:52 Sisak 09:52 Sisak 21:50 Sisak caprag 09:59 Sisak caprag 21:58 Slavonski amac 16:03 Strizivojna - Vrpolje 15:46 Sunja 10:22 Sunja 22:22 Szentlorinc 12:15 Velika Gorica 09:14 Velika Gorica 21:09 Venice 21:27 Villany 13:13 Volinja 11:03 Volinja 23:08 Vienna 06:04 Zagreb 08:47 Zagreb 20:59
City
To Sarajevo Dep. Arr.
07:50 12:00
10:27 21:20 10:27 21:20 10:27 07:14 06:45 18:18 10:27 21:20 07:14 07:14 06:45 18:18 07:14 07:14 10:27 18:05 10:27 21:20 07:14 07:14 10:27 21:20 07:14 10:27 21:20 10:27 07:14 10:27 21:20 21:20 10:27 21:20
09:45 13:55
18:05 05:01 19:10 06:07 23:50 14:38 10:07 21:44 06:15 16:32 13:15 15:55 10:41 22:16 17:36 16:32 18:53 05:41 18:46 05:48 11:50 12:27 18:23 05:18 16:10 19:31 06:26 07:16 14:44 17:56 04:28 13:55 19:47 06:43
21:09 21:39 21:09
07:10 10:52
18:05 06:20 18:05 06:20 18:18 21:09 10:02 20:59 06:20 18:18 21:09 21:09 10:02 20:59 21:09 21:09 18:05 06:20 18:05 06:20 21:09 21:09 18:05 06:20 21:09 18:05 06:20 18:18 21:09 18:05 06:20 21:09 18:05 06:20
Travel Agents
Centrotrans-eurolines d.d. Sarajevo Kurta Shorka
bb, tel. (+387) 33 464 040/(+387) 33 464 045, ferhadija16@hotmail.com, info@centrotrans.com, www.centrotrans.com, www.centrotours.ba. They speak English and German. Otas Marala Tita 38d, tel. (+387) 33 221 410/(+387) 33 221 420, otas@otas.ba, www.otas.ba. Relaxtours Terazije bb, tel. (+387) 33 209 012/(+387) 33 263 190, relaxtours@relaxtours.com, www.relaxtours.com. Relax tours is the leading bosnian travel agency established in 1989 and the first privately held travel agency in Bosnia and Herzegovina. These travel agents also speak English and German.
Valid until December 1, 2009.
One of Sarajevos trademark trams
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getting around
Relaxing by the river in Vilsonovo
Flight schedule
From Sarajevo Days --3--61-----1234567 1234567 ---4--7 -2-----2---------61---4-6-23-5-7 -2-4-------6---4-61234567 ------7 12345-7 -2-----2----12345612345-7 To Sarajevo City Days Dep. Arr. Banja Luka (JA) --3--613:30 13:45 Banja Luka (JA) 1-----22:00 22:15 Beograd (JU) 1234567 21:40 22:10 Budapest (MA) 1234567 14:50 15:55 Frankfurt (JA) ---4--7 21:00 23:20 Stuttgart (4U) -2----06:35 08:15 Stuttgart (4U) -2----16:25 18:05 Stuttgart (4U) -----610:15 11:55 Istanbul (TK) 1---4-613:55 14:45 Istanbul (TK) -23-5-7 17:15 18:05 Koeln (Cologne) (4U) -2--4-13:15 15:15 Koeln (Cologne) (4U) ---4--13:40 15:40 Koeln (Cologne) (4U) -----615:25 17:25 Ljubljana (JP) ------7 14:55 15:50 Ljubljana (JP) 1234567 15:55 16:50 Istambul (JA) 12345-7 11:00 12:10 Duesseldorf (JA) -2----16:40 18:45 Duesseldorf (JA) -2----17:55 20:00 Munich (LH) 12345-7 12:25 13:50 Munich (LH) 12345-7 20:50 22:15 Beograd (SOP) 1-----10:45 11:30 12345-16:45 17:30 Beograd (SOP) -2345-11:10 11:55 --3-5-10:05 13:00 Rygge (DY) --3-5-09:25 12:20 1-----11:30 12:45 Skopje (JA) 1-----14:45 16:05 ---4--12:00 12:40 Podgorica (JA) ------7 14:45 15:30 ------7 13:15 14:00 Podgorica (JA) ---4--16:15 17:00 1--4--12:00 14:35 Copenhagen (JA) 1--4--15:35 18:05 --3--610:10 13:00 Stockholm (DY) --3--609:25 12:20 1-3---07:00 08:35 Vienna (JA) -2-45-17:00 18:20 -2-4567 13:30 14:50 Vienna (JA) -----607:30 10:15 Goteborg (JA) ---4--03:30 06:15 --3---12:00 14:45 Goteborg (JA) -----611:15 14:00 --3---22:00 00:45 Goteborg (JA) --3---15:40 18:15 1234567 07:50 09:10 Vienna (OS) 1234567 14:40 15:50 1234567 15:25 16:40 Vienna (OS) 1234567 21:00 22:10 1234567 06:30 07:15 Zagreb (OU) 1234567 15:30 16:15 1234567 16:15 17:15 Zagreb (OU) 1234567 22:00 22:45 -2-4--07:30 09:55 Zurich (JA) -2-45-7 12:30 14:55 ----5-7 07:15 09:30 Zurich (JA) Airline codes: JP Adria Airways; JU Jat Airways; MA Malev; OS Austrian Airlines; TK Turkish Airlines; RA Icar air; LH Lufthansa; BA British Airways; JA BH Airlines; 4U germanwings ; DY norvegian.no; OU Croatia Airlines; SOP Solinair Dep. 07:00 15:30 06:30 15:20 15:00 08:45 18:35 12:25 14:55 18:15 13:45 15:55 14:10 16:25 15:25 06:15 13:45 15:00 06:35 13:00 Arr. 07:15 15:45 07:15 16:25 17:25 10:30 20:20 14:10 17:45 21:05 15:45 17:55 16:10 17:20 16:20 09:25 15:50 17:05 08:05 14:30
Mail & Phones

Internet
To log in over a phone line with a local dialup method contact one of the following providers: BH Telekom +387 33 212 277, M-Tel Phone: +387 57 310 490, Eronet +387 33 259 970Wifi is available in some hotels, restaurants and bars. Free wifi in the city can be found in: Business center UNITIC, Hotel Holiday Inn, Bus station Sarajevo, BH Telecom Center, main post office. e-Agent 29 Brace Begic. Situated in Kosevko Brdo, across from the Chinese embassy. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Cost: 1km/30 mins. Gemini Internet Cafe B-3, enoina 16. Situated across the street from Marsala Tita. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. InterLink Centar B-4, Obala Kulina bana 7/III, tel. (+387) 33 20 59 43. Q Prices are more or less same at all Internet cafes. Cost: 1 for one hour, 2,5 for three hours, 4 for five hours, 7.5 for 10 hours. Internet CAF AltarITC C-2, Husrefa Redzica 3, tel. (+387) 33 44 08 15/(+387) 61 22 25 65. Q Prices are more or less same at all Internet cafes. Cost: 1 for one hour, 2,5 for three hours, 4 for five hours, 7.5 for 10 hours. Internet Cafe Cyber Uyun Komerc. On the street across Mula Mustafe Baeskje, the street behind the Cathedral. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Cost: 1KM/20 mins. Internet Club Click B-4, Kundurdiluk 1, tel. (+387) 33 236 914. In the center, across from hotel Astra. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Cost: 1km/20 mins. Virtual Spot B-3; B-4, Petrakijna 6, tel. (+387) 33 20 05 99/(+387) 61 19 89 28, virtual@bih.net.ba, www. v-spot.ba. This spot offers one of the best deals in town. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. 1 hour - 2KM, 3 hour - 5KM, 5 hour 8KM, 10 hour - 15KM, 50 hour - 65KM, 100 hour - 100KM. ZemZem B-4, Mula Mustafe Baeskje 61, tel. (+387) 33 239 648/(+387) 61 804 200. Q Cost: 1KM/20 mins. 8, tel. (+387) 33 21 22 77, fax (+387) 33 21 22 88, www.bhmobile.ba. All operators in BiH offer prepaid SIM cards. They are for sale in operators offices, post offices, newspaper stands, bookshops, shopping centers etc. You dont need to show ID to get a SIM card. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. The basic set-up costs for all mobile providers is 5-10 EUR. Eronet (063) B-3, Branilaca Sarajeva 19, tel. (+387) 33 25 99 70, fax (+387) 33 25 99 71, www.eronet.ba. All operators in BiH offer prepaid SIM cards. They are for sale in operators offices, post offices, newspaper stands, bookshops, shopping centers etc. You dont need to show ID to get a SIM card. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. The basic set-up costs for all mobile providers is 5-10 EUR. M-tel (065, 066) Trg ilidanskih boraca bb, tel. (+387) 57 31 04 90, fax (+387) 57 310 490, www.mtel.ba. All operators in BiH offer prepaid SIM cards. They are for sale in operators offices, post offices, newspaper stands, bookshops, shopping centers etc. You dont need to show ID to get a SIM card. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. The basic set-up costs for all mobile providers is 5-10 EUR.
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BH Telecom (061, 062) B-4, Obala Kulina bana
Mailing
These are the main international express mail companies and the main post office in Sarajevo.Every post office and bank in the city offers currency exchange cash into/from euros.
DHL Dzemala Bijedica 166, tel. (+387) 33 77 40 00, www.dhl.ba. QOpen 08:00. EMS B-1, Zmaja od Bosne 88, tel. (+387) 33 17 17, www.bhp.ba. QOpen 08:00. FedEx Brace Mulic 48, tel. (+387) 33 77 32 50, www. Main Post Office (Glavna pota Sarajevo) B-1, B-2, Zmaja od Bosne 88, tel. (+387) 33 14 44/(+387) 33 14 23, fax (+387) 33 65 04 07. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Postal Rates: Letters.
fedex.co.ba.
Public phones
There is only one public phone company in the city. All payphones are card-operated. You can get a card in every post office. The instructions on the telephones are in English too. Calling cards cost 1 Euro, 2 Euros, etc.
Making calls
When you are: calling within the city, only dial the 6 subscriber number digits calling from the city to another city: dial city code with the zero, then the 6-digit subscriber number calling from abroad to the city: dial country code, city code without the zero, then the 6-digit subscriber number. calling to a local mobile number: dial mobile number with the zero.
Inside the central post office
Mobile phones
All operators in BiH offer prepaid SIM cards, available for sale in operators offices, post offices, newspaper stands, bookshops, shopping centers etc.The basic set-up costs for all mobile providers is from 5-10 EUR.You do not need to show any forms of ID to get a SIM card. There is no place in Sarajevo or at the airport to rent a mobile phone.
Local phone codes

Sarajevo Biha Tuzla 033 037 035 Banja Luka Mostar 051 036
Autumn 2009
40
shoPPing
You can spend hours upon hours browsing through quaint boutiques, workshops and large department stores within the bustling old town alleyways or along the main shopping streets. Here is a selection of shops that may be worth a visit - buy anything from books, souvenirs to clothes, art and flowers.
Fashion
Shopping Centar, tel./fax (+387) 33 45 03 15, www. bata.com. Bata is one of the worlds leading footwear retailers and manufacturers. Calypso B-3; B-2, Titova 15 & Fra Andjela Zvizodvica 1, tel. (+387) 33 44 42 49/(+387) 33 20 76 63, fax (+387) 33 20 76 63, info@calypso.ba, www.calypso.ba. Fontana shop B-4; B-2, Ferhadija 35, Zelenih beretki 20, Kralja Tvrtka 27. Fortuna sells a range of cosmetics and perfumes for men and women. Granoff B-3; B-4, Ferhadija 34 & Titova 34, tel. (+387) 33 55 22 52/(+387) 33 57 21 55, fax (+387) 33 76 96 31, info@granoff.ba, www.granoff.ba. If youve got an important meeting in town or you have to be present at a wedding, dont hestitate! You can pick a suit at Granoff which is the place to get fitted in one of the best mens fashion boutiques. Marina Rinaldi B-3, Radieva 12, tel. (+387) 33 27 20 10. Martimex B-4; A-1, Strossmayerova 1 & Gradaaka 1, tel. (+387) 33 200 983, martimex_stross@bih.net. ba. Perfumes for men and women. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Oviesse TC Intershop, Kolodvorska 12, www.oviesse. com/en. Italian fashion outlet for men, women, children and home accessories. Retro B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne bb RTC. This store sells funky, retro boots and shoes for men and women at resonable prices. Springfield B-4, Sime Milutinovica 12. Terranova B-4, Mula Mustafe Baeskije 14, tel. (+387) 33 550 795/(+387) 33 550 796, www. terranova-on-line.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Theresa B-2, Fra Andjela Zvizdovica 1.
Bata C-3, emalua 3, and Kurta orka 7 - Wisa
Art
Art Gallery B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne 4 - Holiday Inn,
tel. (+387) 33 28 80 00, holiday@bih.net.net.ba. The art gallery is located on the mezzanine floor. You can take a look at the paintings of Mersad Berber, one of the most reknowned Bosnian & Herzegovinian painters. Art Shop B-3, Branilaca Sarajeva 24. Original and unique pieces of art and jewellery are on sale every Saturday at BKC. Q Open Sat 11:00-17:00
Bookshops
You can find translated Bosnian literature in English, German and Italian in the bookshops listed. You may be interested in the following famous/popular writers in Bosnia: Miljenko Jergovi (Ruta Tannenbaum) Emir Imamovi (Tajna Doline piramida) Nenad Velikovi (100 zmajeva) Ozren Kebo (Sarajevo za poetnike) Faruk ehi (Transsarajevo, poetry)
Buybook B-3, Radieva 4, tel. (+387) 33 71 64
51/(+387) 33 71 20 10, info@buybook.ba, www.buybook. ba. Almost the definition of a good book shop, Buybook has a range of titles in both Bosnian and other European languages along with postcards that go beyond the typical tourist type images. Add a coffee shop and no pressure to buy and you have an ideal place to stock up on reading material. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Interliber Azize Sacirbegovic 100, tel. (+387) 33 712 515, fax (+387) 33 712 516, info@interliber.com, www. interliber.com. Interliber bookshop offers a whole range of books - computers, history, literature, you name it and in local and international languages. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. TKD ahinpai B-4, Marala Tita 29 & Vladislava Skarica 8, tel. (+387) 33 21 05 30/(+387) 33 77 11 80, fax (+387) 33 77 11 88, info@btcsahinpasic.com, www.btcsahinpasic.com. Like buybook, ahinpai has a good range of titles including novels and non-fiction, with a wide selection of the myriad books written on the Bosnian conflict. It has many English language titles, very helpful staff, and the prevailing atmosphere is browse for as long as you like. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.
Flowers
Cvjeara Nerina 2 B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne bb. Cvjecara VI B-4, Mula Mustafe Baeskije 59, tel.
(+387) 33 23 37 14. Palma C-3, Bolnicka bb, tel. (+387) 33 44 53 45.
Markets
Sarajevo has plenty of open markets with fresh fruit and vegetables but also many other interesting items. The main city markets are open every day from early morning hours until 17:00 or 18:00. Bascarsija Market (crafts) Ciglane market (Flea market, vegetables and fruit) Markale market (vegetables, fruit and flowers) Flea market Stup (only on Sundays) Otoka Market (food and clothes)
Shopping Centres
BBI Centar B-3, Trg Sarajeva, tel. (+387) 33 560 500,
info@bbicentar.ba, www.bbicentar.ba. The crme de la crme of Sarajevos shopping centres, its 43000m of capitalism gone wild and the only modern mall in the centre of town. Opened back in April it took the place of the older Sarajka shopping centre that was one of the symbols of Sarajevo prior to the war. The architecture both inside and out is quite impressive - if perhaps not to everyones taste - and the selection of shops is the widest youll find anywhere in the city. Even if youre not looking to shop the five floors of air conditioned asymmetry can be an attractive place to wander during the hot summer months. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
Grand Centar in Ilida
shoPPing
Grand Centar Butmirska 14, tel. (+387) 33 626
291 . Yet anoth er o f th e cit ys brand new modern shopping centres, its par t of the Sani G rand City development combining retail, municipal and residential space in the suburb of Ilida. Anchored by a nearly 3000m Mercator Hypermarket the mall is home to all kinds of shops from fashion and footwear to books and electronics, and of course the prerequisite restaurants, childrens play area and more than enough parking. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Mercator Centar Loionika 16, tel. (+387) 33 28 61 50, www.mercator.ba. Sarajevos first modern shopping centre is still popular with locals. A bit out of the centre its relatively easily reached by tram, and parking is plentiful if you have your own transport. Theres the usual mix of local boutiques and large international chain stores including Intersport and Benetton, as well as a cheap cantina-style buffet and several other eateries. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. Skenderija Shopping Centar A-2, Terezije bb, tel./ fax (+387) 33 665 322, marketing@skenderija.ba, www.skenderija.ba. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. VF Korea Put Zivota bb, trimont@bih.net.ba, www. trimont.com.ba. WISA Baii bb, tel. (+387) 33 71 02 10/(+387) 61 14 53 80, fax (+387) 33 71 02 11, maldoo@bih.net. ba, www.mal.ba.
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Souvenirs
Baarija is a colourful market area of narrow streets, broad squares, mosques, ca fs and scores of tiny handicraft, carpet, antique and souvenir shops. Most of the souvenir shops offer up the same wares - mugs and postcards, copper coffee sets and serving dishes and trays - but there are also some unique items to be found. The hundreds of thousands of shells and bullets that rained down on Sarajevo during the siege are now turned into pens and pepper pots, showing that the ingenuity of the citizens didnt desert them once the hostilities ceased. Other interesting items include memorabilia from the Communist years and the Olympic weeks. Though the occasional hard-sell approach may make you feel you really are in Istanbul, the tinkling of the copper-workers hammers, the cobblestones and timber-fronted shops make Baarija a great place for wandering, looking, and no doubt buying something to take home with you.
Hand-made metal work in Basarija are local specialists and also have a repair service. You will find it in a small street starting from the lower part of the Pigeon Square. Oriental Shoes B-4, Saraci 15. These oriental leather shoes are hand-made and embroidered by craftsmen of Kalajdzisalihovic M. Ahmed, proud of their tradition dating back to 1822. Q Price 55 EUR, other models from 25 EUR, also available in textile. Souvenir shop B-4, Kazandiluk 18a. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Vezenje B - 4, Mula Mustafe Baeskije 20, tel. (+387) 33 233 532/(+387) 61 172 998, vezenje@ bih.net.ba, www.vezenje.ba. This small shop near the Markale market is the place to go if youre looking for patches. From UN and EU to various police and paramilitary groups to sport teams and of course the 1984 Winter Olympics, they have them all. The patches by themselves run KM3-5, but you can get them affixed to decent quality shirts starting at only KM15. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Bosnian Handicraft Knitwear Shop Cizmediluk
1, tel. (+387) 33 551 535, bhcrafts@bih.net.ba, www.bhcrafts.org. Some of the best handmade gifts in town can be found here. Bosnian Handicraft sells handmade sweaters, gloves, scarfs and toys made by Bosnian women. Butik Badem Abadiluk 12. If youre looking for oriental spices and some amazing sweets and nuts then pay a visit to Butik Badem. The Turkish delights and candied almonds are something youve got to try. Youll definitely find something you fancy there. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Gallery Nur Veliki uriluk 35. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Kazandiluk Street B - 4, Kazandiluk bb. The famous coppersmith trading place on the west side of Baarija. Here youll find great antiques, hand carved copper dishes and oriental decor. The best place in the old town to get your local coffee set souvenir. Kiko Rugs Trgovke 19, tel. (+387) 61 207 504. The shop has a nice selection of new and used rugs. They
Sports
BB Sport Shop B-4; A-2; B-1; B-2, Ferhadija 3, Terezije
bb, Zmaja od Bosne bb (TC Robot Socijalno) , Mula Mustafe Baeskije bb, tel. (+387) 33 222 333, info@ bbsport.ba, www.bbsport.ba. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Intersport Loionika 16 (Mercator Centar). Sport life B-4, Ferhadija 12.
Autumn 2009
42
direCtory
Everything about communications, health, government, media, banks, real estate, language courses and so on.
Government
Agency for Privatization in FBiH B-2; B-3; C-2;
D-2, Alipasina 41, tel. (+387) 33 212 884/(+387) 33 212 885, fax (+387) 33 212 883, apfbih@bih.net.ba, www.apf.com.ba.
Clinics and Hospitals

Clinical Centre I. Sarajevo Kasindo 74, tel. (+387)
57 676 195, bolnica_kasindo@paleol.net. Eurofarm Centar Butmirska cesta 14, tel. (+387) 33 773 020/(+387) 61 13 63 06, eurofarm@epn.ba, www. eurofarmcentar.ba. QOpen 08:00 - 21:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Commission to Preserve National Monuments
Opa bolnica Sarajevo (General hospital Sarajevo) B-1; B-2, Kranjevieva 12, tel. (+387) 33 208 100, hospital@obs.ba, www.obs.ba. QOpen
00:00 - 24:00.
Poliklinika Dr. Gezo Mustafe Kameria 10, Dobrinja,
tel. (+387) 33 450 102, fax (+387) 33 455 425, info@drgezo.ba, www.drgezo.ba. Physicians specialize in Otolaryngology, the medical and surgical therapy of problems of the ears, nose and throat. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Poliklinika Dr. Hadiomerovi B-3, Marala Tita 2, tel. (+387) 33 458 684/(+387) 61 188 009, drhomer@pksa.com.ba, www.drhadziomerovic.ba. A private clinic with services in Gynocology, Internal Medicine and Ultrasound. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Poliklinika FM B-1; B-2, Vilsonovo etalite 6, tel. (+387) 33 22 33 88, info@poliklinika-fm.ba, www. poliklinika -fm.ba. Clinic specializing in cardiology, gastroenterology, endocrinology, radiology, breast diseases, neurology, orthopedics, urology, dermatology and physical therapy. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Poliklinke Atrijum Demala Bijedia 185, Avaz Business Center, tel. (+387) 33 467 444/(+387) 33 768 765, fax (+387) 33 768 768, a_omerbasic@yahoo. com. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00 / 14:00 - 18:00. University of Sarajevo Clinical Centre C-3, Bolnika 25, tel. (+387) 33 29 70 00/(+387) 33 66 66 20, fax (+387) 33 44 18 15, info@kcus.net, www. kcus.net.
B-4, Obala Kulina Bana 1, tel. (+387) 33 276 760, fax (+387) 33 276 768, aneks8ko@bih.net.ba, www. aneks8komisija.com.ba. Council Of Ministers B-2, Trg BiH 1, tel. (+387) 33 211 581/(+387) 33 663 519, fax (+387) 33 205 347, mmicevska@vijeceministara.gov.ba, www. vijeceministara.gov.ba. Federal Ministry Of Finance B-3, Mehmeda Spahe 5, tel. (+387) 33 253 532/(+387) 33 253 400, fax (+387) 33 663 920, info@fmf.gov.ba, www.fmf.gov.ba. Federal Office of Statistics B-4, Zelenih Beretki 26, tel./fax (+387) 33 66 45 53, fedstat@fzs.ba, www.fzs.ba.
Foreign Investment Promotion Agency for BiH
B-3, Branilaca Sarajeva 21/III, tel. (+387) 33 278 080, fax (+387) 33 278 081, fipa@fipa.gov.ba, www. fipa.gov.ba/.
Government of Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina B-2; B-3; C-2; D-2, Alipasina 41, tel.
(+387) 33 212 986, fax (+387) 33 220 437, info@ fbihvlada.gov.ba, www.fbihvlada.gov.ba. Ministry of Civil Affairs B-2, Trg Bosne i Hercegovine 1, tel. (+387) 33 221 073, kabinet.ministra@mcp.gov. ba, www.mcp.gov.ba. Ministry of Foreign Affairs B-3, Musala 2, tel. (+387) 33 281 100, fax (+387) 33 472 188, info@mvp.gov. ba, www.mfa.gov.ba. Useful and up to date information, including the principles of BiH foreign policy, diplomatic and other activities of the MFA, and diplomatic - consular missions, as well as other necessary and useful information, such as issuing of traveling documentation of Bosnia and Herzegovina, or visas information.
Ministry of Justice of Bosnia and Herzegovina
Dentists
Dental Office Dr. Elma Hojkuri Paromlinska 40, tel.
(+387) 33 654 024/(+387) 61 497 227, elmahojkuric@ hotmail.com, www.dr-elma.com. Dental Surgery Biaki B-3, Marala Tita 7, tel./ fax (+387) 33 208 288. Dental Surgery Dr. Begeta C-3, emalua 4/II, tel./fax (+387) 33 225 257, tel. (+387) 61 148 148, ordinacija@begeta.ba, www.begeta.ba. Dr. Edin Muhi Splitska 3, tel./fax (+387) 33 21 47 06, dr.edin@lsinter.net, www.ordinacijamuhic. ba. Dr. Hatidza Foco B-3; B-4, Dzenetica Cikma 10/II, tel. (+387) 33 218 057, info@drfoco.com, www. ortodoncija.com.ba. Dr. Lejla Ceri-Daferovi D-2, Patriotske lige 43, tel. (+387) 61 360 195, ordinacija@drlejla.com, www. drlejla.com.
B-2, Trg Bosne i Hercegovine 1, tel. (+387) 33 223 505, fax (+387) 33 223 507, kontakt@mpr.gov.ba, www.mcp.gov.ba. Presidency Of BiH B-3, Musala 9, tel. (+387) 33 555 691, www.predsjednistvobih.ba.
Insurance Companies
Sarajevo Osiguranje B-3, obanija 14, tel. (+387)
33 203 270, info@sarajevoosiguranje.ba, www. sarajevoosiguranje.ba. UNIQA Osiguranje B-2, Fra Anela Zvizdovia 1, tel. (+387) 33 295 500, fax (+387) 33 295 541, info@ uniqa.ba, www.uniqa.ba.
Language Courses
Interlingua B-3, Skenderija 35, tel. (+387) 33 710
490/(+387) 33 710 491, fax (+387) 33 572 961, info@ihsarajevo.ba, www.interlingua.ba. Interlingua has become a member of The International HouseWorld Organisation. The International House World Organisation (IHWO) is a network of language schools worldwide that are committed to implementing high standards of quality and innovation in education and training. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Soro School for Foreign Languages B-3, Marala Tita 19/III,, tel./fax (+387) 33 44 44 88, osf@soros. org.ba, www.soros.org.ba. The School organizes courses in English, French, German and Italian for adults and children,
Dry Cleaners
Dry Cleaners (Hemijska istiona Boos) B-3,
Tabanica 11, tel. (+387) 33 215 735, fax (+387) 33 221 378.
Dr y Cleaner s (Hemijska istiona F leka)

Paromlinska 2, tel. (+387) 33 614 220.
direCtory
and preparatory courses for TOEFL and IELTS tests. It also offers both individual and courses tailored for the needs of companies and organizations. There are also courses in Bosnian language for the foreign citizens in B&H.
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Sos Kinderdorf Semira Frate bb., tel. (+387) 33
465 323/(+387) 33 465 218, fax (+387) 33 465 218, soskind@smartnet.ba, lamija.turcilo@smartnet.ba, www.sos-ds.ba.
Chambers of Commerce
American Chamber of Commerce in Bosnia and Hercegovina B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne 4, tel. (+387)
33 269 230, fax (+387) 33 269 232, amcham@lol.ba, www.amcham.ba. BiH Chamber of Commerce Branislava ureva 10, tel. (+387) 33 663 370, fax (+387) 33 214 292, cis@ komorabih.ba, www.komorabih.ba. Chamber of Economy of Sarajevo Canton B-3, La Benevolencija 8, tel. (+387) 33 250 100, fax (+387) 33 250 137, webmaster@pksa.com.ba, www.pksa. com.ba. Foreign Trade Chamber of BiH B-3, Branislava ureva 10, tel. (+387) 33 663 370, fax (+387) 33 214 292, j.lasic@kfbih.com, www.kfbih.com.
Notaries
Muir Brki Rustem Papina 41/II, Ilida, tel. (+387)
33 763 455, mbrkic@bih.net.ba. gnet.ba.
Nasiha Ali , tel. (+387) 33 766 245, naca124@
Opticians
Oftalmoloka ordinacija Dr. Sefi B-4, Ferhadija
5/1, tel. (+387) 33 210 212, fax (+387) 33 210 125, ordinacija@sefic.ba, www.sefic.ba. Optika Baro B-4, Ferhadija 30, tel. (+387) 33 573 900, fax (+387) 33 201 860, info@optikabaros.ba, www.optikabaros.ba. Optika Loris Topal Osman pae 32, tel. (+387) 33 715 520, fax (+387) 33 715 522, optikaloris@bih.net.ba, www.optikaloris.ba. Optika Nur Velika avlija 12, tel. (+387) 61 529 894, info@optika.ba, www.optika.ba. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00 / 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Optika Oculto B-3, enoina 12, tel./fax (+387) 33 666 333, info@oculto.ba, www.oculto.ba.
Lawyers and Consultants

Beganovi-uti Mirsada B-3, Radieva 2, tel.
(+387) 33 219 225, h_zutic@bih.net.ba. Crnali Asim B-3, Branilaca Sarajeva 20, tel. (+387) 61 208 683/(+387) 33 206 580. Eterovi Amila B-3, Branilaca Sarajeva 10/III, tel./ fax (+387) 33 215 430, tel. (+387) 33 207 434, info@ aketerovic.com, www.aketerovic.com.
Pharmacies
Apoteka Baarija B-4, Obala Kulina bana 40,
tel. (+387) 33 272 300/(+387) 33 272 301, www. apoteke-sarajevo.ba. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. Apoteka Marijin Dvor B-3, Marala Tita 1, tel. (+387) 33 714 280. Apoteka Novo B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne 51, tel. (+387) 33 713 830/(+387) 33 713 831, informativna@ apoteke -sarajevo.ba, www.apoteke -sarajevo.ba. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Biljna apoteka Matija Paunovski B-4, Zelenih beretki 28, tel./fax (+387) 33 626 200, info@ ap oteka matija.ba, w w w.ap oteka matija. b a . Q O p e n 0 9: 0 0 - 2 0: 0 0, S a t 0 9: 0 0 - 1 5: 0 0. Closed Sun.
Media
BHT Television Bulevar Mee Selimovia 12, tel.
(+387) 33 455 211, www.bhrt.ba. Public service broadcasting TV station in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Bosnia Daily B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne 4/X, tel. (+387) 33 288 035/(+387) 33 288 034, bdaily@ megatel.ba, www.bosniadaily.co.ba. Online newspaper in English focusing on Economics and Politics. Dnevni Avaz Newspaper Demala Bijedia 185, tel. (+387) 33 281 490, redakcija@avaz.ba, www.avaz. ba. A daily newspaper. Osloboenje Demala Bijedia 185, tel. (+387) 33 276 900/(+387) 33 467 723, www.oslobodjenje. com.ba. Sarajevo Prime Television Bulevar Mese Selimovica 12, tel. (+387) 33 776 777/(+387) 33 776 770, pitajte@tvsa.ba, www.tvsa.ba.
Real Estate
Artis C-3, Hadi Idrizova 6, tel. (+387) 33 222
506/(+387) 61 148 810, prodaja@nekretnineartis.ba, narudjba@nekretnineartis.ba, www.nekretnineartis. ba. Prostor d.o.o B-4, Zelenih Beretki 30, tel. (+387) 33 570 555, fax (+387) 33 570 556, info@prostor.ba, www.prostor.ba. SigenX B-3, Plato Skenderije, tel. (+387) 33 667 727, info@sigenx.com, www.sigenx.com.
NGOs
Budi moj prijatelj (Be my friend) D-2, Patriotske lige
24, tel. (+387) 33 668 660, www.budimojprijatelj.com. Fondacija Mozaik A-3; B-3, Soukbunar 42, tel. (+387) 33 266 480, fax (+387) 33 266 482, info@mozaik.ba, www.mozaik.ba. Mozaik is a community development foundation that provides grants and advisory support to local initiatives of common interest throughout Bosnia and Herzegovina. Infohouse A-3; B-3, Soukbunar 42, tel. (+387) 33 227 614/(+387) 61 525 054, infohouse@infohouse.ba, www.infohouse.ba, www.ljudskaprava.ba. Nansen Dijalog Centar C-2, Hakije Kulenovia 10, tel. (+387) 33 273 461/(+387) 33 556 846, fax (+387) 33 556 845, office@ndcsarajevo.org, www. ndcsarajevo.org. Save the Children Hamdije Cemerlica 2/14, tel. (+387) 33 719 485.
Relocations
A u t o p r e v o z n i k Te l . (+ 3 8 7 ) 6 1 74 9 5 6 1 ,
dajaktransport@gmail.com.
Centrotrans International Demala Bijedia
153, tel. (+387) 33 457 103/(+387) 62 134 714, centrotransmt@bih.net.ba. Intereuropa RTC Halilovii 12, tel. (+387) 33 465 054, damir.arapovic@intereuropa.ba, www. intereuropa.ba.
Autumn 2009
44
street register
A.Zvizdovia B2 Avde Jabuice B2 A. ahinagia B4 Alifakovac B5 Alije Bejtia B5 Antuna Hangija C2 Avde Hume C2 Alipaina B2,B3,C2,D2 Armaganua C3 Arapova C4 Aikovac C4 Ademovia C4 Asima Ferhatovia D3 Alije Nametka D4 Branilaca Sarajeva B3 Bakarevia B4 Bistrik B4,A4 Bistrik potok B4,A4 Brdo damije B4 Bentbaa B5 Brae Mori B5 Bolnika C3 Brdakije C3,D1,D4 Bjelave C3 Brae Eskenazi C4 Bakije sokak C5 Breka D3 Budakovii D4 Crni vrh B2,B3 Ciglane C2 Curak C3 Cadordina C4 Carina C5 ebeije donje C5 obanija B3 eljugovii B5 ekalua C3 emerlina C4 Dolina B2 Danijela Ozme B3 Dol B5 Dajanli Ibrahim-bega C2 Derebent C3 Dola C3 enetia . B3,B4 D. auevia B3 Didikovac B3,C3 Dinina C4 Emerika Bluma A2 Ejuba Ademovia B3 F Rakog . B2 Ferhadija B4 Franjevaka B4 Grbavika A1 Garaplina A4,B4 Gorua B2 Gorica B2,C2 Gazi Husrev b. B4 Gabelina C3 Golobrdica C4 Gloina C4 Grliia brdo C5,D5 Huremua A4 H. Dizdara A4 Hiseta B2 Hamdije Kreevljakovia B3 H. Kikia B3 Hadiabdinica B4 Hrvatin B4,B5 Hoin brijeg B5 Halida Kajtaza C1 Hakije Kulenovia C2 Husrefa Redia C2 Himzarina C3 Halim-hodina C4 H.Kajimije C4 Hadi-Jamakova C5 Humka D4 Hrastovi D4,D5 Iza hrida B5 I. Cankara C3 Jezero B3 Josipa Vancaa C3 Josipa tadlera C4 Jekovac C5 Jukieva D2,C2 Kovaia A2 Kamenica A5 Kranjevia B1,B2 Kalemova B2 K. Hermana B2 Kotromania B2 Kralja Tvrtka B2 Kulovia B3 Kovai B4,C4 Konak B4 Kaanik m. B5 Kaanik v. B5 Koevo C2,D2,C3,B3 Kevrin potok C3 Kartal C4 Karpuzova C4 Keina C4 Livanjska C2,D2 Logavina C4 Ljubuaka B3 Mrakua A3 Magribija B2 Mjedenica B3,B4 Musala B3 Mis Irbina B3 Mehmeda Spahe B3 Marala Tita B3 M.M.Baeskije B4 Megara B5 M.Mujezinovia B5 Muhameda Hadijahia C2,D2 Marija Mikulia C2 Mandina C3 Mejta C3 Mehmed-pae Sokolovia C3,C4 Medresa C4 Mandrina C4 M. Handia C4 M.azima atia C4 Mejlijina C4,C5 Miina C5 Mraovac C5 Mlini C5 Marcela najdera D3 Mihrivode D4,D5 Nevesinjska A2 Nova Tekija B2,B3 Nadmlini B5 Nevjestina B5 Nalina B5 Okrugla A4 Omera Stupca B2 Odobaina B2,C2 Obala Maka Dizdara B3 Obala Kulina Bana B4 Obala Isa-bega Isakovia B4 Oaktanum C4 Put mladih Muslimana A2,A3,A4,B3,B4,B5 Petrakijina B3,B4 Pod bedemom B5,C5 Podcarina B5 Provare C3 Pirin brijeg C4 Potoklinica C4 Potok C4 Prijeka esma C5 Ploa C5 Radieva B3 Rizaha tetia C3 Ramia sokak C5 Rami banja D5 Rogina D5 Soukbunar A3,B3 Stolaka B3 Skenderija B3 Stake Skenderove B3 Sarai B4 S. Skaria B4 Sutjeska C2,C3 Sepetarevac C3 Sara Ismailova C3,C4 Safvet bega-Baagia C4 Sunulah Efendije C4 Sagrdije C4 Stroii C5 Stjepana Tomia C3,D3 Safeta Paalia C3,D3 Sedrenik D4,D5 Skender Kulenovia D4,D5 Streljaka D5 enoina B3 erina B5 ekerova C3,C4 eih Mehmedova C3 irokac C5 Terezija A2 Terzibaina A4 Teanjska B1,B2,C2 Tepebaina B2 Tina Ujevia B3,C3 Trivode B5 Tijesna C3,C4 Turbe B5 Vilsonovo etalite B1,B2 Vrbanja B2 Valtera Peria B2 V. Skaria B4 Veleii C1 Vojislava Kecmanovia C2,D2 Vinjik C3 Vrbanjua C4 Vinograd C5 Vratnik C5 Za beglukom A4,B4 Zmaja od Bosne B1,B2 Zelenih beretki B4 Zaima arca C3 Zatikua C3,C4 Zmajevac C5 garii A4
Vjena Vatra, or the Eternal Flame
KOEVO
n ela aj
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Name tka
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BAKIJE
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Husrefa Redia
pah e
BJELAVE
M. H
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ngija
ko vlllij e
Marija a M ikulllii a
Antuna Ha
Ram iia sok ka kak
Ismai Sara
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Logaviina
Kevrin potok Sepetarev evac ac
tia a te Rizah a Vancaa Josipa
um ktan Oa
Bok ovia
Halid a a Kajjjt az
Ru era
a anu mag Arm

Curak
Keina Gloina
Karpuzova
Potoklinica
d Josiipa tadlera
ni Mli loa P kac iro
Vrat nik
c Mraova
emerlina
M. aziiima atiiia z ma at a
Teanjjj n ska
Alipaina
CRNI VRH
Sutjeska
Ljubuaka
h Crni vrh
MEJTA
a Tina Ujavi
Stake Skenderove
Mej
ta
I. Cankara Mehm ed-p a ia e Sokolov
Ko njjji ka
Di dik ova c
a H. Kiki Jezero
Te an
Omera Stupca
re usrev Husre Gazi Husrev b.
GORICA
Marala Tita
la Musa
n enoina
u Goru a
ina p a Tepeb
Kalemova
Avde Jabuice
Mehmeda Spahe
Petrakijina . enetia
afe Baeskije
Nadmlinii
Iva njs ka
g a Hrgi
Jekovac
KOVA KOVAI
i va Ko
de mom
be
Danijel
e a Ozm
BAARIJA
ja Ferhadi
alu ema a
Must ula
Te l a
Sarai
li
ina
Pod c
Do l
a
a
a
K Kullovia
Kranjevia
a Radieva
uevi D . a
Kranjevia
ara Meg
rbina Mis I
Branil
a n i hiinag A. a
Tv Kralja Tvrtka
A. Zvizdovia
Fra nca L
a
Valtera Periia
eha r
a Obala Kulina ban

Obala Maka Dizdara Hamdije Kreevljakovia
Zm
Vrbanjja
a ani om Kotr
aja
a Nov
osne od B
Hiseta
ka Franjevak
M.
MARIJIN DVOR
a riibij Mag a Dolin
kovi ga Isa Isa-be Obala
Brae Mori
aca Sarajeva a
Zelenih
e beretki
MILJ
rin
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B B B B B B B B B
Pod
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Krivajska
I.
a alu ek
CIGLANE
Bje lav e
o Sa m
Gabelina
adordina Brae Eskenazi rae Es E
Tije
endije Sunulah Ef
Sa H. Ka Safvetimije bega m
sna
and
dica Golobrd
tro ii
aS
Veleii
Him za rin a
Zat iku k a
ina Mejlij
VRATNIK
Miina
Dinina
Prij
Ademovia
eka es ma
Koevo
Carina
od Isp
da gra
ACK
a
Konak
Streljaka
Vinogra
hato via
Safet f fe a
om ana T Stjep
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F er
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Budakovii
ka amet je N
Mihrivode
o br d
Rog ina
Hrastovi
HRASTOVI
Sedren ik
d
onj jevac ebeije d Zma
kova
Bibera Hasana
Alije
Vel ei i Go rnji
nja
BREKA
ma Asi
A A A A
e
ma Asi
Fe
13
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Kauk ijina
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Bre ka
Koevo
ia
na
a Zaim
a b ju Vrban
ca ar
a Reis
Feh
im
i a
Potok
Dola
lova
Podgaj
g F. Rakog
K. Hermana
d rska Kollodvo
garii
Za b eglu
MIL
Nevesinjska
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Mrakua
Terz
in iba
Ga r
JAC
Sou k k kbu nar a
erica c ca
em
KA
k kom
o etalite Vilsonov
ere
ka Stola
a Tekij
ovia Adem Ejuba
lin ap
erli
ka Grbavi
P
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Mr ak
ml ut
M ih a d remua
Hu
us
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MAHMUTOVAC
a nic me Ka
ma
Mus
IROKA IROKAA
H D
C C C
Bistrik k Bistriik poto
a zij
Hadiabdinica
dije
Brdo Damiija
BISTRIK
Turbe
lim
a an
Hu
Gorica
ka ms
Odob aina
n Be
t jes Nev
tb
a jsk
Alif ako vac
A
g elju
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tin Hrva
S. Skaria
Alije Bejti a
Tr ivo de
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a nijja oba
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Mjed
a enic
Bakarevieva
HRID
Kaa n
ik v.
nik aa
m.
Ho in
a erin
brij
eg
Nalina
50
index
Ireland
(and 21 other prizes)
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BELFAST
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PRAGUE
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Stunning souvenirs, stylish shopping and local crafts on display
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2006 - 2007
BUCHAREST
April - May 2006
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April 2006
PRAGUE
A New Look
Weve never looked better: In Your Pocket gets a makeover
Blogging Bucharest
Our guide to the best politically incorrect comment online
Going to the chapel

Easter Greetings
Shopping fever
Tiranas first malls
Wilanw
Egg breaking & church walking
Karltejns renovated jewel
Facade art
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Explore the Polish Versailles
Russian in Russia
The best ways to discover the language
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Out of town
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April - May 2006
BELFAST
COLOGNE
June - July 2006
Football events
River tours
Wine and dine on the Rhine
The Great Outdoors
Cycling, skydiving and country pursuits
Gastro Tourism
Seafood, whiskey and St. Georges Market
Tarnw
Explore the Pearl of the Renaissance
Touring Narva
Cool sights at the EUs eastern border
Leisure
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April - May 2006
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Kashubia
Exploring the Polish Alps
Hot spots Museum night

100 museums in one night
The Baltics Beaches
Hockey Fever
Harbour tours
Down in the docks
Hollyd
Everything you need to know about IIHF World Championship in Riga
Polands cinema city
Football events
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Floating the boat

Spree river tours
Explore Latvia
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Stars in your eyes
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Take a day trip to the seaside towns of Jrmala and Liepja
From Polanski to Max Factor, read about the famous natives.
SKOPJE
2006 - 2007
FRANKFURT
SHKODRA
2006 - 2007
PRISTINA
2006 - 2007
KAISERSLAUTERN
June - July 2006
Football events
Skopje snapshots
The Marubi photo collection
Shkodra snapshots
Feature 2 - max 2 lines
The Marubi photo collection
Short description of the feature. Should be max. 3 lines.
Around town
Daytrips to the lake, beach and mountains
Around town Beach bars

Cocktail in hand, toes in sand
Daytrips to the lake, beach and mountains
Football events
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Dram tram
Going Palatine
Strolling in the forest
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Sipping ebbelwei on the cider express

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Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

The host of the 84 Winter Games has reopened for business

Sarajevos 49th International Theatre Festival

of Sarajevo In Your Pocket

Culture & Events Sports Where to stay

Sarajevos upcoming festivals

Luxurious suites to backpacker haunts

Dining & Nightlife

Mail, phones & internet

Directory Maps & Index

Twisting Avaz Tower

Europe In Your Pocket

Sarajevo In Your Pocket

Sarajevo City Administration Hamdije

Tourist Community for the Sarajevo District

Money & Exchange

Get In Your Pocket before you go

Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Going to the chapel

Karltejns renovated jewel

Explore the Polish Versailles

Visiting the Bohemian Paradise

Painting the city pink

Cool sights at the EUs eastern border

Polands top spa town: Naczw

N34 - 100 K www.inyourpocket.com

Floating the boat

N47 - 35kr www.inyourpocket.com

IYP gets a new look

The inside scoop on the new look inside

Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

River tours A New Look

Wine and dine on the Rhine

The Great Outdoors

Our guide to the best politically incorrect comment online

Cycling, skydiving and country pursuits

Everything you need to know about IIHF World Championship in Riga

Explore the Pearl of the Renaissance

Take a day trip to the seaside towns of Jrmala and Liepja

Getting active in Krakw

N7 - Free copy www.inyourpocket.com

N1 Complimentary copy www.inyourpocket.com

N1 Complimentary copy www.inyourpocket.com

Sarajevo In Your Pocket

Sarajevo In Your Pocket

Culture & events

Baarijske Noi Dalmatinska 2/1, tel. (+387)

International Theater Festival (MESS) B-3, Marala

Sarajevo Film Festival B-4, Zelenih Beretki 12/I,

Sarajevo Jazz Fest

Culture & events

La Boheme at the National Theatre

Sarajevska Zima (Sarajevo Winter) Marala Tita 9a,

Galerija 10m ((Camille Laurelli)) B-4, Stakleni

Retrospectrum B-4, Zelenih Beretki 8, tel. (+387) 33