SUNSCREENS: TRUSTED INGREDIENTS EXPAND THEIR HORIZONS

March 2011

SUPPLY AND DEMAND DRIVERS

Supply: Lack of international consistency in legislation

Legislation pertaining to sunscreens also varies considerably around the world and this lack of international standardisation can make product formulation problematic, especially for multinational companies who may need to adapt their formulations to satisfy the legislative demands of specific markets.

Approvals in some regions and not in others Levels allowed in total volumes can differ

For example, polysilicone-15 is an increasingly popular UVB filter in hair care, allowed at levels of 10% in the EU, Australia and Japan but not permitted at all in the US. There are still just eight organic UVB filters and two UVA filters with worldwide acceptance and one of these (terephthalylidene dicamphor sulphonic acid) is exclusive to LOral. Inorganic titanium dioxide has global approval but nano versions of zinc oxide are still excluded in Europe.
For example, homosalate is allowed to a maximum level of 10% in the EU, Japan, China and the ASEAN countries, but is approved up to 15% in the US, Australia and Brazil. In contrast, phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid is allowed at 8% in the EU and most of Asia but only 4% in the US and Australia.

Combination blends also earn differing opinions

Regional legislative bodies can also have different opinions on sunscreen blends, which are more and more important as manufacturers look to develop the optimum UVA/UVB filter combinations.

In addition to permitted usage and levels, there is also some variation in the methods used in different countries to test the efficacy of sunscreens, which can result in different levels of protection quoted on similar products when offered to customers in different regions.
Euromonitor International INGREDIENTS: SUNSCREENS - TRUSTED INGREDIENTS EXPAND THEIR HORIZONS PASSPORT 2

SUPPLY AND DEMAND DRIVERS

Demand: Sunscreens find applications outside pure sun care

Growing awareness of the benefits of protecting the skin from the sun has led to the addition of sunscreen ingredients to a much wider range of personal care products. In particular, the ageing effects of UVA rays have led to much greater uptake of sunscreen ingredients in skin care products, particularly those positioned specifically on an anti-ageing platform. Hair care has also become an important market, particularly as regards colour protection, but even the bath and shower category has seen limited use of sunscreen ingredients.

Skin Care
Simples Age Resisting Day Cream SPF15 contains a cocktail of sunscreens, including ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and ethylhexyl triazone.

Hair Care
LOrals Vive Pro Color Vive shampoos and conditioners contain benzophenone4 and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate.

Mens Grooming
Nivea for Mens DNAge antiage moisturiser for cell renewal contains ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid.

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INGREDIENTS: SUNSCREENS - TRUSTED INGREDIENTS EXPAND THEIR HORIZONS

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SUPPLY AND DEMAND DRIVERS

Demand: Sunscreens used in combination with other actives

It is increasingly common for skin care products, particularly those on an anti-ageing platform, to use sunscreen ingredients alongside other active ingredients, while some sun care products have also looked to include extra skin care actives to enhance their functionality. As a result, the borders between sun care and skin care are blurring all the time.

Skin Care with Sun Care Benefits

Eg Olay Professional Age Defying Day Moisturiser

Vitamins, ceramides and antioxidants

Plus a blend of four active sunscreens

Sun Care with Skin Care Benefits

Eg Hawaiian Tropic Silk Hydration

Blend of three active sunscreens

Plus silk proteins, shea butter and mango seed butter for 12-hour moisturisation

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INGREDIENTS: SUNSCREENS - TRUSTED INGREDIENTS EXPAND THEIR HORIZONS

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THE SUNSCREENS MARKET

No clear leaders, with the emphasis on blends

The largest single sunscreen category is ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, with 18% of global volume, just ahead of homosalate and octocrylene, each with 15%. These UVB absorbers are just ahead of the most widely used UVA absorber - butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane. The inorganic oxides - zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are also important, ranked fifth and seventh with 10% and 6% of global sales, respectively. It should be noted, however, that many of the consumer products available combine several sunscreen ingredients to achieve the optimum levels of protection and use of single ingredients is relatively rare.
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