IR 6

(Sunscreens)

2553

IR 6

(Sunscreens)

2553


(Sunscreens)

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Digital Library 2.5
(Information Repackaging)







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(Sunscreens)

(ultraviolet)
(sunscreen)
(melanin) () (sunburn)
ITA 4 1
100-290 C
C, 2 290-320
B
, 3 320-400 A
B A
B ( A 95% B 5%) , 4
400 - 760
SPF
(Sun Protection Factor)
2
(organic sunscreens) (inorganic sunscreens)









Oil free



A B
1





15
: ; ; ;
Keywords : Sunscreens; ltraviolet; Melanin; Skin cancer; Sun protection factor (SPF)

1.


(melanin
pigment)


sunburn

(ultraviolet)
(sunscreen)
2. (Bino, SD., et al., 2006)

epidermis
squamous basal cell (melanocyte)
subcutaneous dermis
(melanin)
(sunburn)
ITA (Individual Typology Angle) (colorimetric parameters)
ITA ITA
Fontana-Masson
ITA
ITA

ITA
microflash spectrocolorimeter (Datacolor, Montreuil, France)
- (yellow-blue component: b*)
(luminance: L*) 0 () 100 () b*
() () ITA
ITA0 = [ArcTan((L*-50)/b*)]x180/3.14159 (Commission Internationale de lEclairage,
1976) ITA 6 (very light) > 550 >
3

(light) > 410 > (Intermediate) > 280 > (Tanned) > 100 >
(Brown) > -300 > (Dark) (1)
(skin phototype) (2) (skin type based on colorimetric measurements) (3) /
(racial/ethnic origin)
(photoaging) (skin cancer)

BED (biological efficient dose) ITA BED
(linear relationship: P<0.001; R2=0.70)


3. (Ho, TY., 2001; Brown, BA., et al., 2005)
( R= ltraviolet radiation)
290-760 (nm) 4
3.1 100-290 C
stratosphere
C C

3.2 290-320 B
(sunburn) B



B
A
3.3 320 - 400 A

(photoaging) A
A B
A B ( A 95% B 5%) A
( B )

4

3.4 400 - 760 (visible

radiation)
4.
60
2
(chemical filter)
(physical filter)

(non-organic pigment) zinc oxide titanium oxide
(10-100 )

octyl triazone, urocanic acid, octyl methoxycinnamate, methylbenzylidene camphor, 3-benzylidene sulfonic
acid PABA
B A
arebenzophenone-3,benzophenone-4,
butylmeth-oxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789), terephthalylidene sulfonic acid, Mexoryl SX Mexoryl
XL Mexoryl B
(290-320 ) 320-360 344

( oss, W. and Burger, C., 2008) 2

4.1 (organic sunscreens)

A B A B
A 320-400 B
290-320 (EM Industries, 2003)
organic sunscreens aromatic
5

compounds functional group 2

organic sunscreens
B 290-320 PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid),
octocrylene, salicylates cinnamates PABA
.. 1920
PABA
carcinogenic nitrosamine PABA ..1980
benzophenone-3 (BZ-3, oxybenzone) PABA
BZ-3


BZ-3
0.5 % 48
BZ-3
sol-gel glass microcapsule
(photostability)
(Marier, T. and Korting, HC., 2005)
4.2 (inorganic sunscreens)
A B
zinc oxide (ZnO), titanium dioxide (TiO2) silicates



TiO2 photocatalytic
RNA DNA photocatalytic
TiO2
TiO2
TiO2 TiO2
Zn (Zn ion) inorganic sunscreens 2
TiO2 ZnO (sun protection factor) SPF 28
ZnO TiO2
6

ZnO (Marier, T. and Korting, HC., 2005)

5. (Properties of sunscreens)

18
80 2 (chemical
sunscreen) (physical sunscreen)



B SPF
B A SPF

1956 MED (minimum erythemal dose) SPF
24
25 Erythemal Protection Factor
Sunburn Protection Factor SPF SPF 24

( oss, W. and Burger, C., 2008)

A
B inorganics sunscreens
TiO2 ZnO
inorganics sunscreens
(nanoparticle encapsulation) inorganics
sunscreens organics sunscreens organics
sunscreens inorganics
sunscreens
7

 SPF
SPF
inorganics sunscreens

(Marier, T. and Korting, HC., 2005)

5.1 A (Protection of A)
A (FDA)
A
A 1 MED:
Minimal erythema dose
A A
2 IPD: Immediate pigment darkening
A - R
A 3
PPD: Persistent pigment darkening - 2-4
A
IPD A (PA: Protection Grade)
PPD
(Japan Cosmetic Industry Association) Protection
Grade 3 PA+ A 2-4,
PA++ A 4-8, PA+++
A 8 4 CW: Critical wavelength
A (spectrophotometric measurement)
CW
CW 90
290 - 400 (Ho, TY., 2001)
5.2 B (Protection of B) B A
SPF B
A (Ho, TY., 2001) SPF
MED: Minimal erythemal dose
24
8

 Colipa SPF
10-20 35
2 2 (+0.04 ) 15
MED 20 (+4)
(colorimeter) MED B 0.038-0.053
SPF
( oss, W. and Burger, C., 2008)
5.3 (Photostabi ity)
(photostability)
(organic and inorganic chemical filters)



Gonzalez, H., et al. (2007)
7 organic chemical filters 3
3 organic inorganic chemical filters
inorganic chemical filters 0.5
2 12
30 , 90 120 curve
(area under the curve index: A CI) A CI 0.80
7
inorganic organic
Octocrylene, methylbenzylidene camphor, diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate, polyester8 photostabilizing silicone field (PSF) (Bonda, C., 2008)
5.4 ( absorption spectru ) ZnO
380 380
TiO2 100 340-360
TiO2 A B 320-400 ZnO
A B TiO2
TiO2 ZnO 0.1 TiO2
ZnO 0.1 TiO2
9

 ZnO 0.1

TiO2 ZnO
SPF B
A (340-400 ) TiO2 ZnO 2 3

3 avobenzone
A A
(PFA: protective factor ability) A/ B TiO2 ZnO
(w/o: water in oil) (o/w: oil in water) (More, BD., 2007)
1
1 (Ho, TY., 2001)

2-ethylhexyl salicylate
2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate
Benzophenone-3
Benzophenone-4
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane
Homosalate
Micronised titanium dioxide
Octocrylene
Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid
Terlephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid
Titanium dioxide

()
280-320
280-320
270-360
260-360
320-400
290-320
290-340
290-360
290-320
290-400
250-380

5.5 (Sun Protection Factor: SPF) SPF

FDA (Food and Drug Administration)

10

 European Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association SPF

.. 2000
SPF
(erythema)

(photoaging)
.. 2004 SPF

(Marier, T. and Korting, HC., 2005)
5.6 (Optica properties and
Transparency ) (microfine metal oxides)
(visible light) (opaque)
(reflection) (scattering) (absorption)
(RI:Refractive index)
ZnO
TiO2 RI 1.9 2.6 RI
2 RI
0.25 (More, BD., 2007)
6. (Sunscreen for acne-prone skin)
(sebaceous gland)






(sebum)
(comedone)

(P. acnes/Propionibacterium acnes) (Dow Pharmaceutical Sciences,
2007)
11








Oil free"
benzoyl peroxide retinoic acid
TiO2 ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate
phosphatidylcholine hydrosoluble azelaic acid

(Morganti, P. et al., 2008)
7.

(patch testing) (photopatch testing)
(scratch testing)




(melanoma)

SPF A

(Ho, TY., 2001)

12

(Ho, TY., 2001)

24
80 18
18 25


20
15-30

6

99-100
(Pollard, JM. and Rice, CA., 2005)
1) (form)

2) SPF SPF 2-11 12-29
30 SPF

SPF 2
10 20
SPF 15 15 SPF
SPF
SPF 30
SPF 15 2 SPF 15 B 93
SPF 30 97 SPF 30
3) A ( -A protection) B
benzophenones,
oxybenzone, sullsobenzone, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, avobenzone (Parsol 1789) 4) (water
13

resistance)
(water-resistant)
40-80 (Pollard, JM. and Rice, CA., 2005)
8. (Ho, TY., 2001)

1) (SPF) SPF B
SPF B
SPF 30-60

SPF
2)
A B SPF
A SPF
B A B Mexoryl XL:
Drometrizole trisiloxane A Mexoryl XL
Mexoryl SX: Terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid
3)

(light - stable photo-stable)
4)

Parsol 1789: Butyl
methoxydibenzoylmethane A
Octocrylene Parsol 1789
9. (Skin cancer)
3 (basal
cell carcinoma)

(squamous cell carcinoma) 2
14




(malignant melanoma)



( oss, W. and Burger, C., 2008)
nonmelanoma skin cancer (NMSC)
squamous cell carcinoma (SCC) basal cell carcinoma (BCC) BCC
SCC SCC 20 16
30
NMSC


NMSC A B
BCC SCC
(Ramos, J., et al, 2004)
10.

63




25(OH)D
25(OH)D ( 15 )
-B
(photosynthesized)
zinc titanium oxide
25(OH)D 15-20
15

 30
150
1-50 200 I : international unit 51-70 400 I
71 600 I (Garland,
F., et al. 2006)
11.


ITA (Individual Typology Angle)
6
(sunburn),
(photoaging) (skin cancer) 290-760
4 1. C (100-290 ) 2. B (290-320
) 3. A (320 - 400 ) 4. isible Radiation (400 - 760 )

2 Organic sunscreens Inorganic
sunscreen Organic sunscreens Inorganic sunscreen
Organic sunscreens
PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid), octocrylene, salicylates cinnamates
Inorganic sunscreens
Zinc oxide (ZnO), Titanium dioxide (TiO2) silicates



A B
A zinc oxide A
Oxybenzone, TiO2 PA: Protection of A A 3
PA+, PA++ PA+++ B Benzophenones: dioxybenzone,
16

oxybenzone, sulisolxybenzone, Cinnamates: cinoxate, octocrylene, octyl methoxycinnamate, PABA

derivatives: ethyl-4-(hydroxypropyl)aminobenzoate, Salicylates: octyl salicylate, trolamine salicylate
PABA PABA free
(photostability)


250-400 TiO2 ZnO

0.1

SPF





Oil free TiO2
ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate phosphatidylcholine
hydrosoluble azelaic acid
A B
(SPF)
SPF




400 I


15
400-1,000 I

17


Bino, SD., et al. Relationship between skin response to ultraviolet exposure and skin color type. Pig ent Ce
Res., 2006, vol. 19, p. 606-614.
Bonda, C. Research pathways to photostable sunscreens. Cos etics & Toi etries, February, 2008, vol. 123,
no. 2, p. 49-50, 52-58, 60.
Brown, BA., et al. A -B-specific signaling component orchestrates plant
protection. PNAS,
December, 2005, vol. 102, no. 50, p. 18225-18230.
Dow Pharmaceutical Sciences. Topical acne-vulgairs medication with a sunscreen. Angel, A., Osborne, DW.,
and Dow, GI., 2007, Int. Cl. A61Q 17/00. S. Pat. S 7,252,816 B1. 2007-08-7.
EM Industries. Photo stable organic sunscreen compounds with antioxidant properties and compositions
obtained therefrom. Chaudhuri, Ratan K. Int. Cl. A61K7/42. S. Pat. S 2003/0157035 A1. 200308-21.
Garland, F., et al. The role of vitamin D in cancer prevention. A erican Journa of Pub ic Hea th,
February, 2006, vol. 96, no. 2, p. 252-261.
Gonzalez, H., et al. Photostability of commercial sunscreens upon sun exposure and irradiation by ultraviolet
lamps. [On ine] [cited on 23 May 2008] Available from Internet: http:// www.biomedcentral.com
/content/pdf/1471-5945-7-1.pdf .
Ho, TY. Sunscreens: Is looking at sun protection factor enough? Hong Kong Der ato ogy &
enereo ogy Bu etin, 2001, vol. 9, no. 3, p. 100-108.
Maier, T., and Korting, HC. Sunscreens-Which and what for? Skin Phar aco ogy and Physio ogy, 2005,
vol. 18, p. 253-262.
More, BD. Physical sunscreens: On the comeback trail. Indian J Der ato enereo Lepro ,
MarchApril 2007, vol. 73. no. 2, p. 80-85.
Morganti, P., et al. A sunscreen formulation for acne-prone skin. Cos etics & Toi etries, February, 2008,
vol. 123, no. 2, p. 73-79.
Pollard, JM. and Rice, CA. Sunscreen use. Hea th Hints, 2005, vol. 9, no. 3, p. 1-13.
Ramos, J., et al. dose determines key characteristics of nonmelanoma skin cancer. Cancer Epide io
Bio arkers Prev, 2004, vol. 13, no. 12, p. 2006-2011.
oss, W., and Burger, C. Natural skin barriers and immunological mechanisms against sunlight. [On ine]
[cited on 27 May 2008] Available from Internet: http:// www.dermatest.de/publ/natural-barriers.pdf.
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