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return to davao

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The author as a child in Times Beach, Davao City

TEN YEARS AFTER MOVING TO MANILA, TRUE BLUE DABAWENYA MAE L CHATTO RETURNS TO DAVAO TO REKINDLE HER CONNECTION WITH HER HOMELAND. PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOJIE ALCANTARA
was born, raised and educated in Davao, a fact I wear like a badge of honor. Everything about my hometown makes me proud the people, the natural bounty, the fresh produce and fruit that grow here abundantly 365 days a year, and the typhoon-free climate. So it was quite ironic that I actually left this nirvana to live in chaotic Manila, limiting my connection to Davao to visits at Christmastime. During my most recent sojourn back, the desire to reacquaint myself with my roots nipped at my heels like an eager little puppy. Feeling like a prodigal daughter who had been gone too long, I set out on a four-day journey home. I was pleasantly surprised to discover things about Davao that I wouldnt have appreciated had I not left. And just like the father in the biblical story, Davao welcomed me back with open arms.

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day 1

San Pedro Cathedral is the biggest church in Davao

1pm, Church visits Every journey begins with a single step, and thanks to the many religious sites in Davao, a prayer. Simply called Shrine by the Dabawenyos, the Holy Infant Jesus of Prague Shrine in Matina Hills is a popular pilgrimage site for devotees of the Sto Nio. As a child, my parents often brought my siblings and I here to hear mass on special occasions or when we needed divine favors. On this particular visit, the shrine teems with people, despite it being a work day. I light three candles, and amidst a sea of flickering candles and the murmur of petitions and prayers, I close my eyes. At the Holy Spirit Adoration Convent, you will find the cloistered nuns in their bright pink habits keeping watch over the Blessed Sacrament. The convent, also known as Pink Sisters in Catalunan Grande, is open to the public for those who need a moment of peace and spiritual refreshment. Next on my list is the San Pedro Cathedral which is bordered by Bolton,

Get centered at the oly Infant Jesus of Prague Shrine

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Kayak around Maxima Aquafun

My alma mater sure makes me proud!

San Pedro and CM Recto streets, stands mighty as the oldest church of Davao City. Built in 1847 by Don Jose Uyanguren during the Spanish period, the cathedral is named after the citys patron saint and survived bombings that claimed lives in 1981 and 1993. The old altar has been preserved at the right wing of the Cathedral, and houses antique images of the saints. Then I head over to the Carmelite Monastery Chapel along Bajada Street which my mother visited weekly, bringing eggs for the nuns, in exchange for their prayers. 4pm, Back to school Founded in 1948, my alma mater, the Ateneo de Davao University on the corner of CM Recto, Roxas and Jacinto streets, ranked fifth among the countrys top 20 universities in 2009, according to the Philippine Regulation Commission (PRC) and Commission on Higher Education (CHED). Today, coeds take elevators to get to air-conditioned classrooms. The small cafeteria is now a vast food court. New buildings are on the rise, one in memory of the Jesuit priest Fr Paul Finster, SJ, a pioneer educator in Davao City and former president of the University.

I met these kids en route to Talicud Island

The plush Pearl Farm Resort

...that didnt deter me from strapping on a snorkel mask and jumping into the clear waters like i used to as a teenager
10.30am, Natural high Tucked in the Peaplata side of Samal Island, youll find the Crocodile Park, Riverwalk Grill and Maxima Aquafun Home of the Abyss. The latter is a marine playground designed for the rough and tough. The high points? Strolling above the treetops on a 130mlong canopy walk 35ft above the ground and then whooshing down a 47m-long giant slide that drops you into the sea. Barangay Cawag, Peaplata, Island Garden City of Samal, tel: +63 (82) 282 2339, aquafun.psdgroupph.com 12pm, The wonders of water We could have hiked to the enchanting Haguimit Falls, just a stones throw away from Maxima. But I opt to ride a motorbike to get there. Although the boulders are marked by vandals, the cascading falls are mesmerizing. Later, storm clouds appear from nowhere as we make our way to our final destination, Dayang Beach Resort. It was already raining pellets when we reached the shore but that didnt deter me from strapping on a snorkel mask,
The calm waters of Haguimit Falls

day 2

9am, Sail to the islands With my friends and brother in tow, I board the Wind and Wave Davao (www. windandwavedavao.com) speedboat to explore the aquamarine seas and beach resorts in nearby Island Garden City of Samal. A bunch of kids splash in the waters of the old Sta Ana Wharf, where the boats and vessels en route to nearby provinces via Davao Gulf are docked, reaching out for alms. We throw them some coins
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before speeding off to the island. As a child, a visit to Paradise Island Park and Beach Resort was the ultimate treat. But now, tourists have more options. Private rest homes converted into charming resorts now dot the white coastline of Samal Island. Pearl Farm Beach Resort offers world-class pampering with cottages perched on stilts above the water. A sister property, the equally picturesque Malipano Island has seven private resthouses for rent. Wind and Wave operates dive shops in both resorts. Kaputian, Island Garden City of Samal, tel: +63 (82) 221 9970 to 73, www.pearlfarmresort.com

The giant slide at Maxima Aqua Fun

and jumping into the crystal clear waters the way I did as a teenager. As I explore the rich underwater flora and fauna, I contemplate the idea that I may
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Loved the ATV ride!

Tread clear blue waters

Try the crocodile sisig!

I took a bite of crocodile meat, and i swear it tastes like pork. succulent and tasty, it melts in your mouth.
Park in Riverfront Corporate City a long time ago. But I never went there I imagined it would be a disappointing sight with probably just one live crocodile co-existing with fake animals. But boy, I was wrong! Aside from exotic species of birds and animals, the park teems with crocodiles housed inside cages, of course. The park showcases a state-of-the-art crocodile farming system designed to preserve these creatures as well as other wildlife. They also educate people about them, through public viewing and educational shows. www.davaocrocodilepark.com 12pm, Welcome to caf exotica For those with adventurous palettes, the Riverwalk Grill inside the Park serves exotic food such as crocodile prepared in different ways: as sisig (grilled/fried chopped meat with onions and seasoning), steak, caldereta (tomato-based stew), kare-kare (meat with vegetables in peanut sauce) and a whole croc paw stew you name it, they most probably have it! I ordered the sisig, and after I cancelled out images of a ferocious crocodile in my head, I took a bite and swear it tasted like pork. Succulent and tasty, it just melts in your mouth. The restaurant also serves ostrich, so I ordered a steak that had a beefy goodness. For less daring customers, you can take your pick from traditional dishes such as the Bicol Express with seafood a winner. Tel: +63 (82) 271 2626 / 221 9643, Riverwalk.psdgroupph.com 1.30pm, Hello, butterflies! The Butterfly House shows the metamorphosis of the pretty winged insect in all four stages egg, larva, pupa and adult. Aside from the garden where butterflies mate and fly free, the place has a nursery of caterpillars placed inside small cages. The caretaker lets us hold the bigger ones which look like gummy worms. We were just as amused as the preschool kids who were there for a field trip. Tel: +63 (82) 271 2626 / 301 5465. 3pm, Have a ball! Do you remember an episode on Amazing Race Season 5 in which contestants rolled down a hill inside a giant plastic ball in New Zealand? Now you neednt endure a 12-hour flight to enjoy this crazy sport. The Zorb Park near the Crocodile Park complex lets you do this. Perched on top of a 20ft hill, you dive into a giant plastic ball called a zorb, after which you are rolled down the hill. Its just a half a minute ride but
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indeed have been a fish in a past life. Dadatan, Talicud Island, Samal, tel: +63 (921) 307 0367 4pm, Enjoy the ride I towel off and hop onto an all-terrain vehicle (ATV) and try to maneuver it along the shore. This is not an easy task, as the sand shifts under my tires and my ATV veers towards the water. But practice makes perfect, and after struggling to control the beast, I happily zip along the shore with the wind in my face and the engine purring wildly as I squeal in glee. Shortly after, we call it a day and head back to the mainland.

day 3

10am, Rock around the croc! I had heard about the Crocodile

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Me doing the canopy walk! Try zorbing down a hill!

MAYA CALICA

thats all you need to scream and laugh until your guts hurt. Riverfront Corporate City, Diversion Road, Davao City, tel: +63 (82) 221 7749 /271 2626. 4.20pm, Zip it good! With my energy levels still buzzing, we head out to Zip City. My knees go weak upon learning that the 310m-long zip line hangs 150m above sea level. I put on

Have durian in your coffee!

I order the Larcepuccino, an ice blend that combines durian pulp with the taste of coffee
a brave face, allow the staff to strap me in, and then hold on to the rope for dear life. The 360 view of Davao City and Davao Gulf from the top takes my breath away. Barangay Langub, Diversion Road, Davao City, tel: +63 (82) 271 2626 / 286 1055, zipcity.psdgroupph.com 6pm, Durian coffee, anyone? Dabawenyos either love or hate durian. I belong to the latter group, as the fruits strong smell and taste put me off. But since Davao is durian country, the locals have pushed the envelope, creating all manner of treats made with the traditionally smelly fruit candies, pies, cakes, jams, polvoron (from the seeds) and even durian blended coffee. At Blugre Caf, I order the Larcepuccino, an ice blended concoction that combines the rich flavor of the durian pulp with the bittersweet taste of coffee, as well as the Gatchpuccino, which is creamy like a hot cappuccino. The coffees have been named after the owners Larce and Gatchi Gatchalian and they each taste heavenly (and by the way, this is coming from someone who doesnt like durian!). Landco Bldg, Bajada Street, Davao City, tel: +63 (82) 221 4667
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11am, Return to Eden Davao is filled with natural treasures, so if youre in the mood to commune with Mother Nature, youll love Eden Nature Park in Toril. Although 95% of this 80-hectare mountain resort is manmade, youll hardly notice as the design organically blends the manufactured with the natural environment. The result: an experience that lets you breathe in the cool crisp mountain air and take in forests of pine and fruitbearing trees, lush fields of exotic and tropical plants and animals roaming in the wild. The park has a real forest trail, a camping site and organic vegetable and herb gardens which supply local supermarkets as well as Eden Nature Parks own restaurant. A buffet lunch of freshly made dishes is included in the day tour package. Barangay Eden, Toril, Davao City, tel: +63 (82) 299 1020 / 296 0791, edennaturepark.com.ph 5pm, Davao in your pocket No Davao visit is complete without dropping by Aldevinco Shopping

day 4

Welcome to durian country!

Center. Over 100 shops sell antiques, batik, fresh water pearls and authentic Davao and Mindanao souvenir items. These stores accept most foreign currency as most of them double as moneychangers. Dont be afraid to haggle! CM Recto corner Roxas Streets. n

Score local souvenirs at Aldevinco

Cebu Pacific flies to Davao from Manila ___ times weekly. www.cebupacificair.com