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Skin care you can wear
Cosmetotextiles – a trend on the rise?
The types of textiles and their functions are continuously evolving, and today modern finishes can add a new dimension to a textile’s function. Integrating cosmetics into textiles offers a unique platform for delivering such products while a garment is being worn. The increased convenience coupled with functionality converts cosmetotextiles into true “active” players that can help increase our sense of wellbeing.
he name “cosmetotextiles” has been coined to designate textiles with cosmetic properties, but these types of textiles can also be a vehicle for other active substances or functions, such as agents with medicinal properties, mosquito repellents, odour reducers, antimicrobials or UV-protection agents. Research aimed at incorporating cosmetic compositions into textiles started to appear in the late 1980s with
Japan leading the way. Europe followed this lead in 1995 when Hermes launched a scarf perfumed with encapsulated Calèche. This may well have been the first commercial textile in Europe coated with microcapsules. While the initial technology came predominantly from small innovative French companies such as Euracli, the turn of the century saw a significant involvement of large multinational companies, such as Cognis in 2001 and Invista
in 2003, who launched their branded solutions for cosmetotextiles which they called Skintex and Lycra Body Care. The year 2003 saw the creation of Lytess, the French textile brand exclusively dedicated to the development and commercialisation of cosmetotextiles and now one of the European market leaders as a textile brand in this area. Developing and producing effective cosmetotextiles that actually provide valuable benefits for consumers for a certain number of days of wear is challenging. On the one hand usually large amounts of cosmetic ingredients must be transferred to the skin while the cosmetotextile is being worn but, on the other hand, as little as possible should be lost when the textile is washed. Many cosmetic ingredients are heat-sensitive or prone to oxidation whereas others, such as perfumes, are volatile.
COSSMA 3 I 2010
regulations or directives may apply in parallel. Volatile ingredients are prevented from evaporating. The three key elements to be taken into consideration are: safety. polymerisation etc. body lotions. In 2009. body lotions) in order to achieve perceptible effects. Microcapsules can be modified in terms of their size. if it is intended to be placed in contact with the various external parts of the human body.g. Water-soluble ingredients are difficult to encapsulate and are largely removed from the textile when washed. and guidelines on how to play the game of “skin care you can wear” are available. approved a technical report with the title “Cosmetotextiles”. “the textile is neither a substance nor a preparation … However. the textile may be the ‘vehicle’ to deliver a substance or preparation to the human skin. CEN. the European committee for standardisation. and synergy.com INGREDIENTS PRODUCTION Microencapsulation as key technology Microencapsulation is therefore a key technology for cosmetotextiles. mechanical robustness and permeability to customise their release profiles for optimum performance in use. … falls within the scope of application of the Cosmetics Directive.cossma. the question may be asked whether or not they can be classified as cosmetics. • Safety: Cosmetotextiles contain cosmetic constituents.” It also states that other legislation. such as moisturising. e. In the case of cosmetotextiles. This substance or preparation. it will come into force not before 2013. require larger amounts of the cosmetic product to be used (e. According to this manual. whereas fragrances require only much smaller amounts to achieve their Increase in skin hydration [%] after x days of wear The sock with the moisturizing finish increased skin surface hydration COSSMA 3 I 2010 23 . Cosmetic efficacy is an integral attribute of true cosmetotextiles. perfuming them. Skin care effects. Although the European Cosmetics Regulation was published in December 2009.g. • Quantity: The cosmetic functionality defines the amounts of a cosmetic product that are required to achieve efficacious performance. changing their appearance … or keeping them in good condition’. the use of which needs to be as safe as if applied via conventional means. quantity. with only a few exceptions. which increases their shelf-life. i. and can withstand drying and heat-setting processes. Presently cosmetic products are still defined in the European Cosmetics Directive. 76/768/EEC (7th amendment) as ‘any substance or preparation intended to be placed in contact with the various external parts of the human body or … with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them.www.e. Therefore. lypophilic constituents are more amenable to cosmetotextile applications. “cosmetotextiles” have an official definition. Sensitive cosmetic ingredients are protected from degradation processes such as oxidation. The socalled borderline manual gives guidance on whether the Cosmetics Directive applies to certain products. Qualified professionals are needed to ensure that the toxicological profile of the cosmetic ingredients and the textile auxiliaries used in the cosmetotextile’s finish are satisfactory. any legislation relevant to conventional textiles must also be taken into account. For the first time.
it may well be best to use fabrics with a large contact surface to the zones of the skin to be treated. can prolong the efficacy of the cosmetotextile • Synergy: In order to maximise efficacy. Your access codes for March: User name: cossma3 Password: active www. for example by COLIPA.PRODUCTION INGREDIENTS Download Extra The exclusive service for our subscribers: At www. Over the past two decades a number of biophysical methods have evolved to objectively measure skin attributes. claim types can be differentiated into two major classes – objective and subjective claims. In order to ascertain whether transfer from textiles to the skin was taking place.cossma. The subjects were . Elastic fabrics with some degree of compression and a certain massaging effect will often be helpful. Subjective claims are often assessed via questionnaires. for example corneometry to assess skin surface hydration. The volunteers were asked to wear an untreated stocking on one leg and a stocking treated with a moisturising finish (Skintex Monoi) on the other.com/download you will find additional information that you can download.cossma. The use of systems to “reload” the cosmetotextile. Cosmetic performance claims are demonstrated via a variety of different approaches and guidance documents have been published. jeans are heavier than pantyhose).g. garment design and cosmetic finish must be attuned to achieve the best effects. and which are now routinely used for claim substantiation. using ethanol as a solvent. To ensure satisfactory cosmetic performance when large amounts need to be transferred. in this case improved skin hydration (moisturising). After five and eight hours the transferred substances were extracted from the skin surface of ten volunteers per time point. the fabric composition and construction. Sufficient amounts of the cosmetic product must be applied to the cosmetotextiles – and transferred to the skin in a large enough quantity to ensure that cosmetic benefits are possible. Only a certain percentage of cosmetic ingredients per weight of the material can be incorporated in the textile and the amounts also depend on the fabric used (e. sprays containing the cosmetic formulations required. In general. The results demonstrated that the cosmetic ingredients were in fact being transferred. twenty human volunteers were asked to wear a model cotton sleeve treated with microcapsules containing squalane and vitamin E acetate. e. a study with 20 female volunteers with dry to very dry skin was conducted at an independent test institute.g. To ascertain whether wearing a cosmetotextile can convey cosmetic benefits to the skin.com effects. for eight hours a day over 12 days.
Germany Vision is mission: the new generation of powder technology Innovative pressed powder machine will revolutionize the color cosmetic industry Visit us at Cosmoprof 2010 Bologna. Monheim. most cosmetotextiles have been launched with insufficient marketing communication and many consumers are still sceptical of the concept. Cognis. Consumer preferences can also be evaluated via questionnaires. The progressive involvement of traditional cosmetics and fashion brands will further strengthen the credibility of the cosmetotextile concept. Jeans treated with a finish aimed at improving the outer appearance of cellulite (Skintex Slimming) were tested in a home use test. The greatest increase was observed after one day of wear and gradually decreased over the study period.9293 . Indeed.1911 machines@weckerle. Not surprisingly. cosmetotextiles have been identified by independent market analyst Datamonitor as a trend on the rise in its ‘Ten Trends to Watch in Packaged Goods in 2010’ report and France is funding research into cosmetotextiles as an innovative approach to create new opportunities and market segments for textiles.com INGREDIENTS PRODUCTION instructed to hand-wash the stockings daily. The results are depicted in the figure shown. conﬁgurations and color combination Unique single-shot dosing process offers unparalleled precision without the mess Features including a double control system. which would coincide with a gradual depletion of the cosmetic from the stocking over the observation period. a slight to strong improvement in the state of the thighs and their appearance was perceived by 69 to 74% after four/six weeks of wear. booth D57 Be Bold! Explore the unimaginable due to the presses unlimited range of shapes.com www.9293 . Delivery Systems. Annette Mehling Product Safety and Regulations.weckerle. With the exception of days five and ten. and treble control offer supreme accuracy and tolerance control Integrated conveying operation eliminates defects caused from operator handling Weckerle GmbH Holzhofstr. After four to six weeks of wear 74 to 78% of the participants found the jeans pleasant to wear. the best commercial successes have been achieved via sales channels such as teleshopping or catalogues which give more detailed information on the concept and the products. and air dried. Each of the 160 participants was given two treated jeans made from 97% cotton and 3% elastane and wore the jeans for 6 weeks – at least five days per week and eight hours per day. Additional information and a reference list can be found on the Internet – see Internet button Dr. Care Chemicals. 26 82362 Weilheim Germany phone + 49 (0) 881 . Bringing perceptible cosmetic performance to textiles is quite a challenge.0 fax + 49 (0) 881 . a statistically significant increase in skin hydration was observed on the treated side. The jeans were washed in a washing machine using a detergent for delicates.19th of April 2010. high end load cells. Raymond Mathis Director of Technology. Dr.www. hall 19. To date.com .cossma. Italy 15th . application of the cosmetic via cosmetotextiles was perceived as being easier than a conventional cosmetic cream application by 93% of the participants.
Raymond Mathis of Cognis talks about textiles as carriers for cosmetic actives Focus: Active ingredients 3 / 2 010 www.cossma.E 51 2 8 0 www.com .com COSMETICS S P R AY T E C H N O L O G Y MARKETING Marketing At last – stable pinks now achievable Ingredients Biomimetic polysaccharide to combat skin ageing Packaging Tubes: a wealth of ideas to enliven the market VIP of the Month VIP des Monats Dr.cossma.
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